@foregonetrails they say the more parallel they are, the better. Usually, that's why most kits you buy now a days want to flip kit or drop bracket. Old school days like the CJ's, they wanted to drop the Pittman arm more.
I’ve thought about increasing the stops as well. Decided to order a new set of axles apparently it’s an easy swap to a cv style axle shafts and pretty cheap. Eliminate that possible issue and then going to review my alignment completely.
😅 If you can get c, v, axles, that's the way to go, it's your u joints in your axles, most likely. Think of it, just like your drive.Sbath one turns faster than the other depending on which way they're turned
Tight!
Good idea on the skidplate material. Ive had the same idea but i couldn't find where to purchase it ?
There were a few different places I found local. Ultimately ordered off Amazon. I just updated the video description with the link.
That issue could be a result of your geometry angles between your draglink and tie rod cause excessive force on the joint. Maybe?
Possibly, I’ll be checking it also. But I took a lot of time to make sure the pan hard angle and length match the drag link.
@foregonetrails they say the more parallel they are, the better. Usually, that's why most kits you buy now a days want to flip kit or drop bracket. Old school days like the CJ's, they wanted to drop the Pittman arm more.
Maybe u-joints or you may need steering stops
I’ve thought about increasing the stops as well. Decided to order a new set of axles apparently it’s an easy swap to a cv style axle shafts and pretty cheap. Eliminate that possible issue and then going to review my alignment completely.
@foregonetrails yea cv axles don't bind and they are stronger
😅 If you can get c, v, axles, that's the way to go, it's your u joints in your axles, most likely.
Think of it, just like your drive.Sbath one turns faster than the other depending on which way they're turned
That’s exactly what I did. Put that video out next the CV axles solved all the problems.