If you put the reed valves back in, they provide the seal (as they have a rubber surround) between the pair cover and head cover. If you don't, you'll need to seal the outer edge of the head cover to the pair cover with some sort of RTV sealant. Just keeps gunk from getting in the engine and air flow at zero at that point.
A very helpful video. Thanks. I had already did the flapper but as I did the pair removal, I found that when I had the bike repaired from a car hitting the 9er in a parking lot; they replaced the tube back onto the air intake! so I removed the tube entirely like on ur video. Thx again.
When removing the 'gas' tank you need to lift the tank before you slide it back, otherwise it is possible to scratch the tank on the little alloy side covers. Also, on the left side under the tank is a little earth strap which can be removed to allow the tank to be lifted more.
@g00gl3it just did the pair valve removal it looks so much better under the tank!!! used black 1200 degree high temp paint ( had it handy for the 900rr exhaust mod im doing soon ). everything went smooth except getting the small screws out of the valves i had to drill 3 out of the 4 out which didnt take but a few minutes then i washed them real good and went over them with a magnet to make sure there was no shavings left.
compression is determined by the combustion chamber size and the piston. the only way anything external can change the compression ratio is if it gets sucked thru the intake port and ends up in the combustion chamber, taking up space normally used for the compression of the air and fuel. if such a situation would occur, the engine is going to need a rebuild. :) I really like the bike. I am seriously considering getting a 919, and so far that red is one of my favorite colors.
Stumbled across this in my recommendations, thought your name looked familiar. That, of course, is because I'm already subscribed and have seen you around WT! Memory is a funny thing. Anyway, it seems the main benefit from this mod is for reducing decel popping with aftermarket cans, which I don't YET. So I probably won't be poking around in there just yet. Nice tutorial, I'll be looking more into the flapper mod for now.
If you disconnect the PAIR valve solenoid electrical connector it stops the solenoid working and you can see if it makes a difference without doing a lot of work. Same with the flapper mod. Before you remove the pipe just try it disconnected and blocked off.
Besides, by removing weight from the vehicle, you improves it's weight to HP ratio. I dropped probably 35 pounds from this bike with various mods, and it shows when paired off with a stock 919.
@jman10793 Not much, but it completely removed the popping I had on deceleration. Plus, I removed about 2lbs of unneeded hardware, so that alone will help the bike a little bit in weight savings. The PAIR valve has nothing to do with how the engine runs, just is there to help burn off unburnt fuel in the exhaust. It's only an emissions thing.
so if the pair valves put unburnt fuel from the exhaust back into the engine that has less oxygen putting the block off plates on should increase performance.I dont understand the purpose of the flapper mod though.
Great one! Just wondering, does this pair valve mod and flapper mod works with stock exhaust? Or works only for with aftermarket exhaust? And the solenoid wire plug is not effecting the ECU or FI, right?! Please let me know. Thank you.
You can find our Pair Valve Removal kit at: stores.ebay.co.uk/SmartMoto/PAIR-Valve-Removal-Kits-/_i.html?_fsub=3530952012&_sid=899086662&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
@vdub4utube I'm not sure the amount of vacuum produced inside that system, so if you did block it off that way, it would be best to use something sturdy (not just a rubber cover, for example). I think most people buy the plates just because it cleans up the head, and also makes it a bit easier to work on stuff like the spark plugs, as the pair valve covers get in the way.
@coedshowers Do a search for "Honda 919 smog". There are two kits that are available. I got the nicer one that came with the little plastic caps for the hoses. They included great instructions, too.
@coedshowers Nice! I saw your pics, looks very good! It was a bugger getting those screws out, I pretty much had to break the heads off, and the rest just fell out, I should have showed some video of that. I never did put gasket sealer under there. Seems to be fine. I should probably do that, though.
Hi, Good video! I have one question about the pair valve removal. Would it work if you just block the hole on the top of the pair valve cover where the black hose connects? Thanks!
I do realize this is a decade later but do you by chance know the screw size used for installation of the cover plates? My kit circa 2022 didn't include any nor any instructions for that matter lmao. Being nearly a classic at this point, parts and info are unobtainium. Appreciate the vid man 👍
@@opengl1 dude, many thanks. Just did the delkevic full system swap and a pc 6 is in transit. You by chance know where i could find various PC tunes for a full system, and flapper mod or able to point me in the right direction? Thanks again man most appreciative🙏
@@opengl1 Your vid was imperative to knocking that out man. Most appreciative. Reed valve screw removal about a bitch. Went straight to drilling. Still need the Allen head nuts but she's on. Will swap in the future. 🍻
there's an easier way to do it just disconnect it from the airbox and plug both sides the hose and the air box and you're done not only does the bike run cooler it runs a lot better like it should
Just watched the video and was wondering.........Wouldn't removing the hose from each pair valve and Blocking the tube on each valve box accomplish the same thing as removing them and installing the plates? just wondering...
You can just block off the tubes, yes, but installing the whole kit is much cleaner and removes a few pounds from the bike. Also frees up more space when working in the area of the coils and plugs.
Hey Sam, no, there is no o2 sensor on the 919, so there is no need to worry about that. You may want to do the flapper mod and remove the PAIR valve system. I did a video on that here: ruclips.net/video/xa4-OEqCfhI/видео.html
ive got a question that i cant seem to find an answer to on any message board, maybe someone here might know? my 919 wont go to redline when under a load, it almost sounds like its being strangled, only mods it has is the bafflectomy otherwise its stock. i just put new spark plugs in thinking that would fix it but to no avail. in 6th gear maxed out itll only go 110 and thats if im pushing it and itll bog a little. which made me wonder if doing the flapper mod would help? any ideas are welcomed, thanks!
Hey mate any luck with bike? I did the flapper mod , i prefer it being connected, what sort of petrol are you using? I know there fussy on what gets used
@@jamesinverarity4360 it was something really simple, there was a bundle of wires blocking the air intake, so i moved the bungle to where they were supposed to be near the frame so the air box could actually get air and problem solved!
You can do that, yes, but I prefer to remove all associated hardware for a cleaner look. Takes all the excess parts off the bike. 99% of the folks that do this mod never put the parts back on anyway.
subscriber 210 woha :D so what's the purpose of doing this? why does it have it in the first place if they can be removed with no effect on the bike? Thanks :D
It removes excess air introduced into the exhaust causing popping on deceleration (usually after heavy acceleration). It's only there purely for emissions reasons; to get the bike to pass state and federal emissions tests. It has no other function and does not harm the bike to remove it.
Wrong. The PAIR system only recirculates fresh air into the exhaust, NOT the intake valves of the engine. This is only to assist in burning unburnt fuel in the exhaust, for environmental and emissions reasons; same goal as a CAT converter. The PAIR system has no tie in to the ECU or Fuel Injection system. So it also has NOTHING to do with saving fuel. It stops the popping on heavy deceleration, and shaves a good 3-4 pounds of useless junk off the bike. Please do your research first.
I know I'm a little late to the party... removing the PAIR system makes absolutely NO difference to performance - NONE. Even the weight difference is comparable to a double burger and fries. Why? If anything the bike will sound like a wet towel is over the exhaust so the rider will experience a soggy deceleration... perhaps a soggy sound is your preference. A complete waste of time, and that's my final word.
Waste of time. Bike sounds like a wet sock with them capped off - what's wrong with a little "blue flame"? And the difference in weight is the difference before and after you have a crap.
I disagree. A couple of pounds on a bike is a huge difference over time - ask any racer. Plus, this is almost a requirement if running an after-market exhaust, as it makes it easier to tune the bike without having that extra air introduced into the exhaust upon decel.
Clamp off the hoses when dynoing, sure, but there's absolutely no difference in performance with/without the pair valve. Weight? I laugh at 2 pounds (0.5kg).. if that. Don't forget the 1k(I think) resistor on the plug that needs sorting and capping the breather. More effort to remove than to keep unless you are tracking the engine.
@@g00gl3it I completely disagree. I took mine out and the bike sounded like dawg-poo. No blue flame either. If you do disconnect then you should place a 10k resistor in that plug to do it properly.
@@N269 If you were getting blue flames then you were already running too rich or too lean and might have a bad fuel pressure regulator (which are also known to go bad). You shouldn't have this issue by just removing the pair valve.
@@g00gl3it I luv my pair valves, Akrapovics with baffle removed and cat removed from link pipe - wonderful sound - not a wet rag. Whilst not big flames, they do sound nice when rolling off. (Did you ever see Guy Martin at bottom of Hillbury???? Blue flame spitting out..... beautiful and sounds great) Each to their own. Oh, you can get the blank-offs with the screw dimple so you don't need to remove the reed valves - and you don't need goop to seal them - the rubber is sufficient. And don't forget the 10k resistor across those 2 wires. See you on The Mountain.
did this mod and swapped plugs recently. Video was helpful. Next I'm going to check valve clearance and do a throttle body sync.
Hey man, I'm Scorch from wrist twisters, this video is awesome and just what I needed to give me the nerve to do this. thanks goog !
Np! It's pretty straightforward... you'll be fine.
If you put the reed valves back in, they provide the seal (as they have a rubber surround) between the pair cover and head cover. If you don't, you'll need to seal the outer edge of the head cover to the pair cover with some sort of RTV sealant. Just keeps gunk from getting in the engine and air flow at zero at that point.
A very helpful video. Thanks. I had already did the flapper but as I did the pair removal, I found that when I had the bike repaired from a car hitting the 9er in a parking lot; they replaced the tube back onto the air intake! so I removed the tube entirely like on ur video. Thx again.
When removing the 'gas' tank you need to lift the tank before you slide it back, otherwise it is possible to scratch the tank on the little alloy side covers. Also, on the left side under the tank is a little earth strap which can be removed to allow the tank to be lifted more.
@g00gl3it just did the pair valve removal it looks so much better under the tank!!! used black 1200 degree high temp paint ( had it handy for the 900rr exhaust mod im doing soon ). everything went smooth except getting the small screws out of the valves i had to drill 3 out of the 4 out which didnt take but a few minutes then i washed them real good and went over them with a magnet to make sure there was no shavings left.
compression is determined by the combustion chamber size and the piston. the only way anything external can change the compression ratio is if it gets sucked thru the intake port and ends up in the combustion chamber, taking up space normally used for the compression of the air and fuel. if such a situation would occur, the engine is going to need a rebuild. :)
I really like the bike. I am seriously considering getting a 919, and so far that red is one of my favorite colors.
Stumbled across this in my recommendations, thought your name looked familiar. That, of course, is because I'm already subscribed and have seen you around WT! Memory is a funny thing. Anyway, it seems the main benefit from this mod is for reducing decel popping with aftermarket cans, which I don't YET. So I probably won't be poking around in there just yet. Nice tutorial, I'll be looking more into the flapper mod for now.
If you disconnect the PAIR valve solenoid electrical connector it stops the solenoid working and you can see if it makes a difference without doing a lot of work. Same with the flapper mod. Before you remove the pipe just try it disconnected and blocked off.
Besides, by removing weight from the vehicle, you improves it's weight to HP ratio. I dropped probably 35 pounds from this bike with various mods, and it shows when paired off with a stock 919.
@jman10793 Not much, but it completely removed the popping I had on deceleration. Plus, I removed about 2lbs of unneeded hardware, so that alone will help the bike a little bit in weight savings. The PAIR valve has nothing to do with how the engine runs, just is there to help burn off unburnt fuel in the exhaust. It's only an emissions thing.
so if the pair valves put unburnt fuel from the exhaust back into the engine that has less oxygen putting the block off plates on should increase performance.I dont understand the purpose of the flapper mod though.
Great video! Just did the same thing on my 07 thanks to your excellent video. Good work! Thanks!
Great one! Just wondering, does this pair valve mod and flapper mod works with stock exhaust? Or works only for with aftermarket exhaust? And the solenoid wire plug is not effecting the ECU or FI, right?! Please let me know. Thank you.
Yes, it works with stock exhaust and does not affect the ECU or fuel injection.
Awesome! Thank you!
I got stuck removing the solenoid connector. How to release the clip connector? Please advise. Thanks.
@@ivanjonathanyoutube Hmm, I honestly can't remember. I don't have the bike anymore to go check.
It is fine. I got it removed 👍🏼👌🏼😊 thank you.
You can find our Pair Valve Removal kit at: stores.ebay.co.uk/SmartMoto/PAIR-Valve-Removal-Kits-/_i.html?_fsub=3530952012&_sid=899086662&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
+SmartMoto Electronics Thanks for the link. For those interested, there is also a fellow on the wristtwisters forum that sells them as well.
@vdub4utube I'm not sure the amount of vacuum produced inside that system, so if you did block it off that way, it would be best to use something sturdy (not just a rubber cover, for example). I think most people buy the plates just because it cleans up the head, and also makes it a bit easier to work on stuff like the spark plugs, as the pair valve covers get in the way.
Finally watched this all the way through. Good on you Goog! I want to do this and the evap can removal soon.
Thanks for the video. What do you think a reasonable price for it now if it has 20K miles on it in a good shape otherwise?
@coedshowers Do a search for "Honda 919 smog". There are two kits that are available. I got the nicer one that came with the little plastic caps for the hoses. They included great instructions, too.
@coedshowers Nice! I saw your pics, looks very good! It was a bugger getting those screws out, I pretty much had to break the heads off, and the rest just fell out, I should have showed some video of that. I never did put gasket sealer under there. Seems to be fine. I should probably do that, though.
I going to order some on ebay in a week or two looks so easy to get everything cleaned up.
Hi,
Good video!
I have one question about the pair valve removal. Would it work if you just block the hole on the top of the pair valve cover where the black hose connects?
Thanks!
yes
I do realize this is a decade later but do you by chance know the screw size used for installation of the cover plates? My kit circa 2022 didn't include any nor any instructions for that matter lmao. Being nearly a classic at this point, parts and info are unobtainium. Appreciate the vid man 👍
They are M6 bolts, M6-1.0. Stock bolts are 20mm long so I'd get some 10mm long or so.
@@opengl1 dude, many thanks. Just did the delkevic full system swap and a pc 6 is in transit. You by chance know where i could find various PC tunes for a full system, and flapper mod or able to point me in the right direction? Thanks again man most appreciative🙏
@@Ki777UMiNATii Sorry not sure where to find any PC tunes, never ran one.
@@opengl1 Your vid was imperative to knocking that out man. Most appreciative. Reed valve screw removal about a bitch. Went straight to drilling. Still need the Allen head nuts but she's on. Will swap in the future. 🍻
Is it required to have a power commander while doing these mods to change ecu settings at all?
there's an easier way to do it just disconnect it from the airbox and plug both sides the hose and the air box and you're done not only does the bike run cooler it runs a lot better like it should
I wanna do this to my bandit 1250, this is VERY helpful thanks!
Just watched the video and was wondering.........Wouldn't removing the hose from each pair valve and Blocking the tube on each valve box accomplish the same thing as removing them and installing the plates?
just wondering...
You can just block off the tubes, yes, but installing the whole kit is much cleaner and removes a few pounds from the bike. Also frees up more space when working in the area of the coils and plugs.
Nope. This is only after ignition, so no affect to ECU or Fuel Mapping by fuel injection.
Did this on my 04! What a spectacular video!
So by doing this what is the purpose? What's the benefits of it?
Did you notice a big difference in power?
Legend!! Thanks bro
+Bern Stock You bet!
iwas told that i needed to instal an o2 sensor removal kit when i do this mod as it will effect the o2 sensor.is that true?
Hey Sam, no, there is no o2 sensor on the 919, so there is no need to worry about that. You may want to do the flapper mod and remove the PAIR valve system. I did a video on that here: ruclips.net/video/xa4-OEqCfhI/видео.html
What kind of performance did you gain from doing this?
ive got a question that i cant seem to find an answer to on any message board, maybe someone here might know? my 919 wont go to redline when under a load, it almost sounds like its being strangled, only mods it has is the bafflectomy otherwise its stock. i just put new spark plugs in thinking that would fix it but to no avail. in 6th gear maxed out itll only go 110 and thats if im pushing it and itll bog a little. which made me wonder if doing the flapper mod would help? any ideas are welcomed, thanks!
Hey mate any luck with bike? I did the flapper mod , i prefer it being connected, what sort of petrol are you using? I know there fussy on what gets used
@@jamesinverarity4360 it was something really simple, there was a bundle of wires blocking the air intake, so i moved the bungle to where they were supposed to be near the frame so the air box could actually get air and problem solved!
You can do that, yes, but I prefer to remove all associated hardware for a cleaner look. Takes all the excess parts off the bike. 99% of the folks that do this mod never put the parts back on anyway.
Why do you need to put the reed valves back in?
@g00gl3it just bought the same one should be here next week!
Thanks!
There is no real performance gain, this is to help with exhaust popping when adding aftermarket exhausts.
thanks 4 the gas tank tip
Thanks! On the flipside, I get accused of talking too much ;-)
subscriber 210 woha :D so what's the purpose of doing this? why does it have it in the first place if they can be removed with no effect on the bike?
Thanks :D
It removes excess air introduced into the exhaust causing popping on deceleration (usually after heavy acceleration). It's only there purely for emissions reasons; to get the bike to pass state and federal emissions tests. It has no other function and does not harm the bike to remove it.
I see. Thanks for the Info. Though in my opinion the poping sounds great. Did you hear RJ's Nuda? :D
Wrong. The PAIR system only recirculates fresh air into the exhaust, NOT the intake valves of the engine. This is only to assist in burning unburnt fuel in the exhaust, for environmental and emissions reasons; same goal as a CAT converter. The PAIR system has no tie in to the ECU or Fuel Injection system. So it also has NOTHING to do with saving fuel. It stops the popping on heavy deceleration, and shaves a good 3-4 pounds of useless junk off the bike.
Please do your research first.
This mod shaves as much as 3-4 lbs?!
@@cjh9679 Yep. Between the pair system, canister, hoses and everything in between, it's a fair bit of savings.
DOOOO IT.
I know I'm a little late to the party... removing the PAIR system makes absolutely NO difference to performance - NONE. Even the weight difference is comparable to a double burger and fries. Why? If anything the bike will sound like a wet towel is over the exhaust so the rider will experience a soggy deceleration... perhaps a soggy sound is your preference.
A complete waste of time, and that's my final word.
Waste of time. Bike sounds like a wet sock with them capped off - what's wrong with a little "blue flame"? And the difference in weight is the difference before and after you have a crap.
I disagree. A couple of pounds on a bike is a huge difference over time - ask any racer. Plus, this is almost a requirement if running an after-market exhaust, as it makes it easier to tune the bike without having that extra air introduced into the exhaust upon decel.
Clamp off the hoses when dynoing, sure, but there's absolutely no difference in performance with/without the pair valve. Weight? I laugh at 2 pounds (0.5kg).. if that. Don't forget the 1k(I think) resistor on the plug that needs sorting and capping the breather. More effort to remove than to keep unless you are tracking the engine.
U just ruin a good bike.
Ask anyone whose owned this bike, and this is the first thing they do. It's Mod #1.
@@g00gl3it I completely disagree. I took mine out and the bike sounded like dawg-poo. No blue flame either. If you do disconnect then you should place a 10k resistor in that plug to do it properly.
@@N269 If you were getting blue flames then you were already running too rich or too lean and might have a bad fuel pressure regulator (which are also known to go bad). You shouldn't have this issue by just removing the pair valve.
@@g00gl3it I luv my pair valves, Akrapovics with baffle removed and cat removed from link pipe - wonderful sound - not a wet rag. Whilst not big flames, they do sound nice when rolling off. (Did you ever see Guy Martin at bottom of Hillbury???? Blue flame spitting out..... beautiful and sounds great) Each to their own.
Oh, you can get the blank-offs with the screw dimple so you don't need to remove the reed valves - and you don't need goop to seal them - the rubber is sufficient. And don't forget the 10k resistor across those 2 wires.
See you on The Mountain.