Hi John, going back to an earlier video I used my new 10 litre ultrasonic parts cleaner using Deox C de-rusting powder mixed in the warm water worked a treat. Simply I don't own a grit blaster.
@@ToTheGarage I am going to use a product called K2 Red for a final gloss on my calipers, as I can't powder coat, will see how it all goes. Did send you an email of a view of my XK8R from a bedroom widow, not sure if you got it Bruce PS passed its MoT on Monday well pleased
They look fantastic John looking forward to the braking test when you are finished. The only thing I would have done is to use copper anti seize on the bolts and on the slider pins and also on the back of the pads where they contact the piston.
Geoff Minors also looking forward to the test. I anticipate a firmer sharper pedal and better resistance to fade. but to be honest as I don’t thrash my car often, I think the majority of the difference will have come from the use of quality brake hoses. But we shall see quite soon👍
hi john another excellent video ,I drive an x300 and a while ago I fitted the same ebc discs and pads ,performance very good but I did notice an increase in noise when applied from speed.just an observation I may be wrong but when setting the torque wrench I was under the impression you set the torque to where the line intersects the centre line not the flat aside the number I was told the numbers were raised so you could read them at the desired setting . keep the vids coming as I really enjoy them and a lot of the content can be applied to the x300 .
Hi Michael. Ref torque wrench. you are absolutely right. I obviously need new glasses as I did not note the cranked line 😔. Well spotted sir👍. And absolutely agree with you ref the X300. To my mind, the x300 is a 4 door XK8 or visa versa. Maybe I need an X300 on the fleet as well. (just for commuting mind!😉)
BTW, i bought these redstuff for my 330CI...similar fit etc - looks the same.... my problem was that the pads were so universal that they didnt wear the disk to the edge, so now my disks have a ridge around the outer area of them. I accept it may well be my disks and not my pads, by please take note and keep an eye on it.
Thanks breakz187 I will keep an eye of the pad contact area ( it will be very visible as it will remove the thermic coating. I will check out your recommended Ferodo’s as well👍
Thank you John. To reiterate the previous comments, another excellent video. I noticed that you do not use any copper grease anywhere. I have read conflicting reports about using copperslip et al on the rear of the pads to stop squeal, but it seems that there is no consensus. What is your view?
T. Alan Blain cheers👍 I use copper grease to stop brake squeal if present. But not pre emptively. I also use a dab on wheel studs and the outside of the hub to make wheel removal easier when in a repair at the roadside situation. But I’m not a fan of slavering it on everything👍
John, I would be tempted to prime and paint the suspension arms with silver Hammerite or similar while the brakes are stripped down just so they look good. Is that a bad idea?
Hi Bob. Its a great idea. Check out this episode at around the 5 minute mark to see just how far some of our subscribers have gone. ruclips.net/video/C4U7zZDfges/видео.html I think I will be doing some suspension painting before too long👍
Is it not necessary to put grease onto the sliding pins? And is there value in greasing the metal on metal contact points of the pads? I’m accustomed to doing that on my other cars.
Hi. Thanks for watching. Yes A sachet of red grease is supplied with the caliper rebuild kits I used this. Its quite common practice to put copper grease on the back plates of the pads where they contact the caliper or piston to reduce the chances of squeal. However better quality pads including EBC red stuff have a non metalic lamination on the pad backplate to achieve the same thing. However adding some copper grease to this sort of pad will do no harm if you wish to do it.
To The Garage please do. I’m in two minds & I want this exact setup. Can’t find one single YT video that talks about cold bite for red stuff pads. What’s the curb weight of your car. They seem to like heavier saloons I’m told.
I guess I'm a bit mystified by the presence of body to spindle grounding straps. The wheel speed reluctor sensor needs just the two wires through the connector pins. Please explain. Also, how are your rotor internal cooling vanes oriented relative to forward motion rotation? Are they straight or curved/angled, and if curved/angled, do they draw cooling air from near the hub and expel at the rotor periphery? www.apecbraking.co.uk/Resources/TechniciansGuides/ABS-Sensors.aspx
I know that these disk inner vanes are straight radial but short and not continuous. They are cleverly inter-spaced in rows to provide outward radial ventilation when spun in both directions.This enables the disc to be used on both sides of the car and not be handed. Also, later XK8's (4.2 Eng) do not have the little earth strap and have a different wheel sensor wiring harness part number....
Yes thanks both. As paul said they are a straight vane at the inner drawing air through the hole In the back plate. Mine are handed though as the grooves on the disc surface to expel braking gasses are different each side. As I understand it the earth wiring on early cars is to stop any noise signals from static effects etc as the hubs are not necessarily well grounded. Whether this was found to be excessive and just deleted. Or the sensors are a different design on later cars. I don’t know. But it’s certainly standard fit.👍
Gary VanRemortel congratulations. Though my Brummie accent and unusual spelling contrive to mask it, I’m pretty verbose. But today I learnt a new word. I used to work along side a tribologist when I worked on sintered metals. So given the the context of our conversation I was able to guess the entomology but, .... I genuinely had to look up tribocharging. Thank you sir.🍺 A new word day is a good day. Now it’s 6:00 am in the uk and Jo & I arejust about to jump in the Cherokee and go check out a new ‘project vehicle’ 200 miles away (not a jag🤔) Wish us luck👍
So carefully explained. I wished to have teacher like you. Thanks John
Pietro Biondo 😊 Now that is a compliment. Thank you very much👍
Hi John, going back to an earlier video I used my new 10 litre ultrasonic parts cleaner using Deox C de-rusting powder mixed in the warm water worked a treat. Simply I don't own a grit blaster.
To be fair Bruce I don't have a parts cleaner, and if I had I would probably have given that a go first. I have tried Deox C. Really good stuff👍
@@ToTheGarage I am going to use a product called K2 Red for a final gloss on my calipers, as I can't powder coat, will see how it all goes. Did send you an email of a view of my XK8R from a bedroom widow, not sure if you got it Bruce PS passed its MoT on Monday well pleased
They look fantastic John looking forward to the braking test when you are finished. The only thing I would have done is to use copper anti seize on the bolts and on the slider pins and also on the back of the pads where they contact the piston.
Geoff Minors also looking forward to the test. I anticipate a firmer sharper pedal and better resistance to fade. but to be honest as I don’t thrash my car often, I think the majority of the difference will have come from the use of quality brake hoses. But we shall see quite soon👍
John as always excellent video that I am sure will help a lot of people
jagvette1 😊 thank you
hi john another excellent video ,I drive an x300 and a while ago I fitted the same ebc discs and pads ,performance very good but I did notice an increase in noise when applied from speed.just an observation I may be wrong but when setting the torque wrench I was under the impression you set the torque to where the line intersects the centre line not the flat aside the number I was told the numbers were raised so you could read them at the desired setting . keep the vids coming as I really enjoy them and a lot of the content can be applied to the x300 .
Hi Michael. Ref torque wrench. you are absolutely right. I obviously need new glasses as I did not note the cranked line 😔.
Well spotted sir👍. And absolutely agree with you ref the X300. To my mind, the x300 is a 4 door XK8 or visa versa.
Maybe I need an X300 on the fleet as well. (just for commuting mind!😉)
Hi John, Again great instructional video, just one comment would you use copper ease on any non breaking areas of the re-assembly etc.
Bit on the wheel studs and the nose of the hub but mainly I use copper grease on the back of the pads if I find a set up starts to squeal
Great informative vid,
thanks David
BTW, i bought these redstuff for my 330CI...similar fit etc - looks the same.... my problem was that the pads were so universal that they didnt wear the disk to the edge, so now my disks have a ridge around the outer area of them. I accept it may well be my disks and not my pads, by please take note and keep an eye on it.
In addition, my red stuff pads will be replaced by some ferodo ds3000
Thanks breakz187 I will keep an eye of the pad contact area ( it will be very visible as it will remove the thermic coating. I will check out your recommended Ferodo’s as well👍
You always get a lip.
Thank you John. To reiterate the previous comments, another excellent video. I noticed that you do not use any copper grease anywhere. I have read conflicting reports about using copperslip et al on the rear of the pads to stop squeal, but it seems that there is no consensus. What is your view?
T. Alan Blain cheers👍
I use copper grease to stop brake squeal if present. But not pre emptively. I also use a dab on wheel studs and the outside of the hub to make wheel removal easier when in a repair at the roadside situation. But I’m not a fan of slavering it on everything👍
John, I would be tempted to prime and paint the suspension arms with silver Hammerite or similar while the brakes are stripped down just so they look good. Is that a bad idea?
Hi Bob. Its a great idea. Check out this episode at around the 5 minute mark to see just how far some of our subscribers have gone.
ruclips.net/video/C4U7zZDfges/видео.html
I think I will be doing some suspension painting before too long👍
John, don't throw your black fleece away I think it has magic powers or let me have it when you've finished with it
Its my Lucky fleece. My wife says im lucky she will allow it in the washer🤣
To The Garage no no no don’t wash it could be fatal
Is it not necessary to put grease onto the sliding pins? And is there value in greasing the metal on metal contact points of the pads? I’m accustomed to doing that on my other cars.
Hi. Thanks for watching. Yes A sachet of red grease is supplied with the caliper rebuild kits I used this.
Its quite common practice to put copper grease on the back plates of the pads where they contact the caliper or piston to reduce the chances of squeal. However better quality pads including EBC red stuff have a non metalic lamination on the pad backplate to achieve the same thing. However adding some copper grease to this sort of pad will do no harm if you wish to do it.
Hi john. What’s the cold bite like for the red stuff pads.
Let you know as soon as she's back down on the ground Wes Bez. Cant wait👍
To The Garage please do. I’m in two minds & I want this exact setup. Can’t find one single YT video that talks about cold bite for red stuff pads. What’s the curb weight of your car. They seem to like heavier saloons I’m told.
You’re not setting the torque wrench correctly. Use the line where it touches the centerline. Your 110 nm setting is actually 120 nm.
I guess I'm a bit mystified by the presence of body to spindle grounding straps. The wheel speed reluctor sensor needs just the two wires through the connector pins. Please explain. Also, how are your rotor internal cooling vanes oriented relative to forward motion rotation? Are they straight or curved/angled, and if curved/angled, do they draw cooling air from near the hub and expel at the rotor periphery? www.apecbraking.co.uk/Resources/TechniciansGuides/ABS-Sensors.aspx
I know that these disk inner vanes are straight radial but short and not continuous. They are cleverly inter-spaced in rows to provide outward radial ventilation when spun in both directions.This enables the disc to be used on both sides of the car and not be handed. Also, later XK8's (4.2 Eng) do not have the little earth strap and have a different wheel sensor wiring harness part number....
@@paulkane6645 Interesting, thx.
Yes thanks both. As paul said they are a straight vane at the inner drawing air through the hole In the back plate. Mine are handed though as the grooves on the disc surface to expel braking gasses are different each side.
As I understand it the earth wiring on early cars is to stop any noise signals from static effects etc as the hubs are not necessarily well grounded. Whether this was found to be excessive and just deleted. Or the sensors are a different design on later cars. I don’t know. But it’s certainly standard fit.👍
@@ToTheGarage That's the first I've seen of it. I learn something new everyday. There's certainly a lot of tribocharging going on there. Cheers.
Gary VanRemortel congratulations. Though my Brummie accent and unusual spelling contrive to mask it, I’m pretty verbose. But today I learnt a new word. I used to work along side a tribologist when I worked on sintered metals. So given the the context of our conversation I was able to guess the entomology but, .... I genuinely had to look up tribocharging. Thank you sir.🍺
A new word day is a good day.
Now it’s 6:00 am in the uk and Jo & I arejust about to jump in the Cherokee and go check out a new ‘project vehicle’ 200 miles away (not a jag🤔)
Wish us luck👍