Just a tip, even stock the xk8 brakes are quite good, if you upgrade and make them even better, remember if you get in heavy traffic, and something happens requiring sudden braking, try to use as much space as possible to stop. You have to remember, the car behind you probably does not stop as well, and will just plow into you if you stop too fast. I have owned several cars with really good brakes and came to realize it takes a new mind set to use.
What a great report John, possibly your best video to date, loved the comparisons using wheels out front of yours- very graphic!! Hope your dad's neck is OK after all that braking! Can't wait to finish mine now, such is my trust I ordered (and have half fitted) almost identical set-up albeit with an RDA rotor sourced locally.....will let you know how my tests compare! And your TTG sticker made it to Brisbane this week, thanks!! All the very best Dave
I had a terrible problem with jerky stopping in my 2004 XJ8. Drove my wife crazy. Lots of brake dust as well. All sorted with Akebono ceramic brake pads. Pricey but worth it. Better and smoother braking with less mess. Years later I tried less expensive ceramic pads with similar results. Ceramic pads is the best noticeable upgrade for any vehicle. PS - Another outstanding video with meaningful and truly measurable results.
John, Agree with everything you said about Pros and Cons. I haven't got a before figure for my car, and 'lockdown' means that I have only done 50 or so miles since doing my brakes, so - no final stopping distance yet. All in all though I too am really pleased with the process of fitting EBC discs and pads. Really happy to have followed your lead on this brake upgrade.
It took me so long to get that video filmed that you nearly beat me Alan. Take your time bedding them in and im sure you will be super pleased with the result. Drama free power.👍
John, an there great video and round up of the brake improvement. You have inspired me to do mine over the winter. You might be interested that the MY2000 had a running change to the brake booster and pedal assembly to improve brake feel and reduce pedal travel. It has approximately double the previous pressure for the same travel. Keep up the great work, thanks Damian
Thank you John, more useful information. An impressive demonstration of improved stopping distances and an upgrade well worth considering. For every day driving the ability to stop in time must be one of the most important skills and a combination of ‘accelerator sense’ and controlled ‘feel in, firm on and feather off’ braking is all part of the mix. I also find this approach also saves on the the brake pads!
Thanks John, well worth waiting for your results. I got fed up with front vibration when hot so got Sheffield Prestige to change front disks and pads as soon as they reopened. Their view was standard aftermarket is fine for normal use, as you say it’s a pretty good system. They also said a soft pedal is normal and advised no benefit in new hoses - mine are apparently fine after 23 years. Your EBC stopping power is very impressive though!
To The Garage yes John, I would say so. They’ve brought my 97 XK8 to life after it sat in a garage for 10 years, and look after my F-Type too. Matt Quail is an ex Jag tech - my service records say he serviced it in 1998 and he’s looking after it now 👍
I would add that Sheffield Prestige have at least twice recommended I do less than I might - 1st to change secondary tensioners but not the others and chain guides unless they needed it, then to say I didn’t need to upgrade brakes as much as you did. In fact they rang me to double check I wanted new disks and pads because on dismantling they looked ok. If I told them I want solid gold disks they would do it, but my experience over 2 years on 2 Jags is they challenge why I want something rather than just taking my money. Very happy to trust Sheffield Prestige Jag indie specialist. Oh, and they’ve also solved some issues quickly and effectively. My lad was at Skeg Grammar so I know the back roads there pretty well😁
Got these on my lancer evolution. Love the bite and progressive feel. Get what you mean about the sudden bite on the standard pads. Same happened with me. I do lots of fast road driving, car makes just over 400bhp and these are a brilliant pad.
I don’t have brembo’s on my Hyundai N but they are very good brakes with great stopping power and bite but very dusty like an oe brembo setup.. I was thinking about the red stuff but worried they won’t be as good. Prob would help with dust but that is on the lower side of my concerns.. sounds like you’re quite happy with the red stuff? Are they good cold and with bite?
Brilliant video John, well presented and totally convincing results. As you said a little pricey but hey what price safety. Will be very tempted to go this route when my brakes need servicing.
Generally jag suppliers charge £30-35 for brake caliper piston seals. ATE were the OEM and Eurocarparts are their UK dealer. Emailed them with the part numbers, 2 wk delivery, total for 4 calipers £5 in 2019.
Hi John. I was wondering if you or your viewers can help me. My central locking seems to be really slow to lock or open using my key for. The boot and headlights are quicker. New batteries in the fob. Any ideas. Many thanks. Steve.
Hi Steven. If by slow you mean you have to hold the button down for a while or press several times, its probably just poor contacts. Dissassembe the remote and use a soft pencil eraser to )clean the little contact pads on the circuit pad and rub the lead of a soft pencil (HB or softer) across the black peg on the underside of the remote buttons (pencil lead is conductive
Hi Tom yes but only the rears. Fronts are the same on both tests and to be fair the rears were pretty much unworn on the before runs. I replaced them because they were starting to show some cracking. Would have prefered to do the test before i changed tyres but that just wasn't possible in the spare time i had available. Pressures were all standard on the before and after tests
No. Its the down side of a heavily pearled finish (Mica in my case) Everywhere the bodywork takes a different angle at a shut line, it can give the impression of a completely different colour. In some lights my car looks British racing green (pretty dark) in others it looks turquoise. Mostly its about 3 different shades in between. Occasionally it looks all of those at the same time.
@@ToTheGarage came to the video as I was set on getting yellow stuff pads but heard they produce alot of brake dust wheres the redstuff produces less but still stops well. How you finding the redstuff pads for dust?
@@tomgreen3284 They definitely do generate some but its less than my original standard pads (mintex I think) and its pale grey so you don't notice it as much.
What are your thoughts on the yellow stuff pads? A lot of people seem to recommend them esp for dust reduction over standard. Any reason why you didn’t go with dimpled and slotted discs over just slotted?
woody Foster Hi Woody Just my opinion based on what I’ve read and the experience of some friends with caterhams. The Yellow stuff will give even less dust. They will not give much if any advantage over decent quality and top condition standard pads at road temperatures. Get them on a race track where they get much hotter and they will give great improvement in braking and no fade. Basically think of them as much harder than reds, and as such don’t break up as easily and are not as grippy but when the going gets REALLY hot they come into their own. I’m not anti dimples. I just liked the grooved EBC’s for their reputation for being quiet. Which they are . The heat expands the air in a dimple while the pad seals it off and so their is effectively a popping noise as the dimple is re exposed. Lots of those tiny pops make for a whooshing noise. ( it’s a minor thing really. Cross drilled vented brakes can vent out of the edges so don’t have the same issue but can start to crack around the holes as they age.
@@ToTheGarage plus that is mostly for looks. it does help cooling. But so does ducting. So pro race teams usually use solid (well vented but rather blank) rotors because it's just plain more stopping surface area. So for the best consumer braking situation, will always be blank rotors given everything else equal. (use the same pads but their RK series and I bet it's a bit better)
Hi John Love your xk8 videos Not sure if this is the place to post this But would love to see you make a video on how to flush your coolant on a xk8. I have an 1999 xk8. Thankyou for time
I confess to being a bit confused. Per MT's article, the XK8 should brake from 60-0mph in 118ft. www.motortrend.com/cars/jaguar/xk8/1997/jaguar-xk8-convertible-2/ You have it at 180ft. ??????? Also, change the brake lights to LED and diode over to the fogs so that those tailgating you get warned sooner than incandescents.
Hi Gary, I think that you need to put new batteries in your calculator 😁 as John's stopping distance from 60 mph was 24.5m, which is, I think, 80 feet - ish.I have to agree with the LED/diode mod to the rear fog lights.
180ft? My results from 60 were Original 60-0 24 metres 78ft Upgraded 60-0 14 metres 46ft So better than MT's results before and after. Which i can only assume is down to the very high grip road surface we were on? We could be plus or minus 2 feet based on my reaction crossing the stop line but certainly no more and the measurements were incredibly repeatable on the upgraded brakes. within about 4 inches after the initial run
@@garyvanremortel5218 Oh! now i understand! The chart was an extract from 'Her Majesties Governments Highway code' (actual book title) So those are the nationally accepted standard braking distances that are 'On average roads in average conditions in an average car, that you should anticipate needing. I guess there is an equivalent chart in the U.S. but related to 'Drivers Ed'?
No problem with real brake (Except ABS error signal). But... My emergency brake on my XK8 (LHD) absolutely not working. Guess too many drivers know how to neglect it, due to its special engagement or feel that if you don't know it, specific to the car, you would think it is already broken and would drive, disregarding its existence! Yes, Jaguar fanboys know it how, but that's usually too late!! So my request to Jag: Either change the design or have an engine rav disabler, linked to the engaged signal of the handbrake.
Interesting Point Sam I am of course very aware of how to use the unusual XK8 handbrake lever but must admit to occasionally pulling away with it engaged (which is due to my other regular drives having auto handbrake release plus the Jag engine hardly notices the handbrake being on) Mine has an audible signal when you drive with it on. Your reduced power idea is good. As is possibly a link to the transmission lock?.🤔 Thanks Sam👍
Nice one John as always very informative, by the way are you a member of Jaguar Enthusiasts Club ? if not check them out at jec.org.uk/ I think you'll like them, also check out Saloon Lovers at www.jag-lovers.org/saloons/ they cover ALL models of Jaguar and it's free to join
Yes Jacob and Udo, I think if brake dust reduction is your main goal then reds are probably not your best solution. I have done 700 miles since that video and the wheels are very dirty. But at least that dirt is now pale grey rather than charcoal coloured as previously. The ceramic dust does seem to wash off very easily at least though
Just a tip, even stock the xk8 brakes are quite good, if you upgrade and make them even better, remember if you get in heavy traffic, and something happens requiring sudden braking, try to use as much space as possible to stop. You have to remember, the car behind you probably does not stop as well, and will just plow into you if you stop too fast. I have owned several cars with really good brakes and came to realize it takes a new mind set to use.
Top tip Leo👍
Brilliant video John, really clear and well presented. Should have your own TV show!
Thanks Tim.
You mean like Edd China's shorter less talented brother🤣
Cheers👍
John
What a great report John, possibly your best video to date, loved the comparisons using wheels out front of yours- very graphic!! Hope your dad's neck is OK after all that braking!
Can't wait to finish mine now, such is my trust I ordered (and have half fitted) almost identical set-up albeit with an RDA rotor sourced locally.....will let you know how my tests compare! And your TTG sticker made it to Brisbane this week, thanks!! All the very best Dave
Thanks Dave. look forward to your report on the RDA's
I had a terrible problem with jerky stopping in my 2004 XJ8. Drove my wife crazy. Lots of brake dust as well. All sorted with Akebono ceramic brake pads. Pricey but worth it. Better and smoother braking with less mess. Years later I tried less expensive ceramic pads with similar results. Ceramic pads is the best noticeable upgrade for any vehicle.
PS - Another outstanding video with meaningful and truly measurable results.
John, Agree with everything you said about Pros and Cons. I haven't got a before figure for my car, and 'lockdown' means that I have only done 50 or so miles since doing my brakes, so - no final stopping distance yet. All in all though I too am really pleased with the process of fitting EBC discs and pads. Really happy to have followed your lead on this brake upgrade.
It took me so long to get that video filmed that you nearly beat me Alan.
Take your time bedding them in and im sure you will be super pleased with the result.
Drama free power.👍
John, an there great video and round up of the brake improvement. You have inspired me to do mine over the winter. You might be interested that the MY2000 had a running change to the brake booster and pedal assembly to improve brake feel and reduce pedal travel. It has approximately double the previous pressure for the same travel. Keep up the great work, thanks Damian
Hi Damian. Very interesting. do you know which components were changed and if it is backwards compatible?
Been waiting for this one. Excellent results. Something to consider on my coupe. Thanks John.
Cheers Geoff . I enjoyed making the video and have been a bit frustrated not to have been able to complete it sooner.
Hi John excellent work on the comparison and wow what a difference that upgrade made. Stay safe mate and Ill catch you on the next vid.👍
Cheers Geoff. see you soon👍
Great to actually see the difference, informative and clear as always 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Good Sightseeing Tour in backround
Thanks Udo👍
Great review. I have Greenstuff in my Porsche Boxster 986 it's transformed the brake feel.
Pads and disks can be quite transformational
Hi John,
A sore neck ,but for a very good return.....what a difference! Well done sir.
Yes indeed!
Thanks for watching Harry👍
Thank you John, more useful information. An impressive demonstration of improved stopping distances and an upgrade well worth considering. For every day driving the ability to stop in time must be one of the most important skills and a combination of ‘accelerator sense’ and controlled ‘feel in, firm on and feather off’ braking is all part of the mix. I also find this approach also saves on the the brake pads!
Thanks John, well worth waiting for your results. I got fed up with front vibration when hot so got Sheffield Prestige to change front disks and pads as soon as they reopened. Their view was standard aftermarket is fine for normal use, as you say it’s a pretty good system. They also said a soft pedal is normal and advised no benefit in new hoses - mine are apparently fine after 23 years. Your EBC stopping power is very impressive though!
Thanks, Hunty28. Is Sheffield prestige a recommendation for the rest of our subscribers? Not seen them before.
To The Garage yes John, I would say so. They’ve brought my 97 XK8 to life after it sat in a garage for 10 years, and look after my F-Type too. Matt Quail is an ex Jag tech - my service records say he serviced it in 1998 and he’s looking after it now 👍
I would add that Sheffield Prestige have at least twice recommended I do less than I might - 1st to change secondary tensioners but not the others and chain guides unless they needed it, then to say I didn’t need to upgrade brakes as much as you did. In fact they rang me to double check I wanted new disks and pads because on dismantling they looked ok. If I told them I want solid gold disks they would do it, but my experience over 2 years on 2 Jags is they challenge why I want something rather than just taking my money. Very happy to trust Sheffield Prestige Jag indie specialist. Oh, and they’ve also solved some issues quickly and effectively. My lad was at Skeg Grammar so I know the back roads there pretty well😁
Can’t wait! Sydney
Can only echo everything that has already stated in other comments ...keep coming it John always look forward to you next chapter of shows
Thanks Andy.
Really appreciate that👍
Got these on my lancer evolution. Love the bite and progressive feel. Get what you mean about the sudden bite on the standard pads. Same happened with me. I do lots of fast road driving, car makes just over 400bhp and these are a brilliant pad.
I don’t have brembo’s on my Hyundai N but they are very good brakes with great stopping power and bite but very dusty like an oe brembo setup.. I was thinking about the red stuff but worried they won’t be as good. Prob would help with dust but that is on the lower side of my concerns.. sounds like you’re quite happy with the red stuff? Are they good cold and with bite?
Brilliant video John, well presented and totally convincing results. As you said a little pricey but hey what price safety. Will be very tempted to go this route when my brakes need servicing.
Thanks Mike.
Yes Im genuinely impressed with the results and the stopping distance is ridiculously short for such a big motor.
Great video yet again john!!!thanks
Very welcome Gareth. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Great Report John
Thanks Frederick
Generally jag suppliers charge £30-35 for brake caliper piston seals. ATE were the OEM and Eurocarparts are their UK dealer. Emailed them with the part numbers, 2 wk delivery, total for 4 calipers £5 in 2019.
Good price Karl. But does that include new pistons? or only piston seals etc
Just the seals, pistons were similar price level
Hi John. I was wondering if you or your viewers can help me. My central locking seems to be really slow to lock or open using my key for. The boot and headlights are quicker. New batteries in the fob. Any ideas. Many thanks. Steve.
Hi Steven. If by slow you mean you have to hold the button down for a while or press several times, its probably just poor contacts. Dissassembe the remote and use a soft pencil eraser to )clean the little contact pads on the circuit pad and rub the lead of a soft pencil (HB or softer) across the black peg on the underside of the remote buttons (pencil lead is conductive
To The Garage I will give it a go. Many thanks for your reply.
Hi John. I done exactly as you instructed key fob much more responsive. Thanks as always. Steve.
Wondering about the tyres and pressures used for the tests. Didn't you just put on some new shoes?
Hi Tom yes but only the rears. Fronts are the same on both tests and to be fair the rears were pretty much unworn on the before runs. I replaced them because they were starting to show some cracking. Would have prefered to do the test before i changed tyres but that just wasn't possible in the spare time i had available. Pressures were all standard on the before and after tests
@@ToTheGarage That's a really impressive improvement then, well done you!
Can’t wait
Very well done.
Thank you kindly Sam👍
Is that bonnet a different colour?
No. Its the down side of a heavily pearled finish (Mica in my case) Everywhere the bodywork takes a different angle at a shut line, it can give the impression of a completely different colour. In some lights my car looks British racing green (pretty dark) in others it looks turquoise. Mostly its about 3 different shades in between. Occasionally it looks all of those at the same time.
@@ToTheGarage ah good to know thanks for the reply
@@ToTheGarage came to the video as I was set on getting yellow stuff pads but heard they produce alot of brake dust wheres the redstuff produces less but still stops well. How you finding the redstuff pads for dust?
@@tomgreen3284 They definitely do generate some but its less than my original standard pads (mintex I think) and its pale grey so you don't notice it as much.
I have to say my standard breaks on the XKR work tremendously well.
Brembos?
@@ToTheGarage Yea I think so.
What are your thoughts on the yellow stuff pads? A lot of people seem to recommend them esp for dust reduction over standard. Any reason why you didn’t go with dimpled and slotted discs over just slotted?
woody Foster Hi Woody
Just my opinion based on what I’ve read and the experience of some friends with caterhams. The Yellow stuff will give even less dust. They will not give much if any advantage over decent quality and top condition standard pads at road temperatures. Get them on a race track where they get much hotter and they will give great improvement in braking and no fade.
Basically think of them as much harder than reds, and as such don’t break up as easily and are not as grippy but when the going gets REALLY hot they come into their own.
I’m not anti dimples. I just liked the grooved EBC’s for their reputation for being quiet. Which they are . The heat expands the air in a dimple while the pad seals it off and so their is effectively a popping noise as the dimple is re exposed. Lots of those tiny pops make for a whooshing noise. ( it’s a minor thing really. Cross drilled vented brakes can vent out of the edges so don’t have the same issue but can start to crack around the holes as they age.
@@ToTheGarage plus that is mostly for looks. it does help cooling. But so does ducting. So pro race teams usually use solid (well vented but rather blank) rotors because it's just plain more stopping surface area. So for the best consumer braking situation, will always be blank rotors given everything else equal.
(use the same pads but their RK series and I bet it's a bit better)
Hi John
Love your xk8 videos
Not sure if this is the place to post this
But would love to see you make a video on how to flush your coolant on a xk8. I have an 1999 xk8. Thankyou for time
Hi Jay. you are the second to suggest that in as many days🤔. Wonder how much the coolant would cost me?
Haven't you just changed your tyres ???
Only the rears. And yes ideally I would have done the test before the swap but that just was not possible.
I can wait 😹 Europa/Germany
I confess to being a bit confused. Per MT's article, the XK8 should brake from 60-0mph in 118ft. www.motortrend.com/cars/jaguar/xk8/1997/jaguar-xk8-convertible-2/ You have it at 180ft. ???????
Also, change the brake lights to LED and diode over to the fogs so that those tailgating you get warned sooner than incandescents.
Hi Gary, I think that you need to put new batteries in your calculator 😁 as John's stopping distance from 60 mph was 24.5m, which is, I think, 80 feet - ish.I have to agree with the LED/diode mod to the rear fog lights.
180ft?
My results from 60 were
Original 60-0 24 metres 78ft
Upgraded 60-0 14 metres 46ft
So better than MT's results before and after.
Which i can only assume is down to the very high grip road surface we were on?
We could be plus or minus 2 feet based on my reaction crossing the stop line but certainly no more and the measurements were incredibly repeatable on the upgraded brakes. within about 4 inches after the initial run
Yes I would like to go LED on brakes and sidelights
Did I misread your chart? I saw 55m as the stopping distance 60-0.
@@garyvanremortel5218 Oh! now i understand!
The chart was an extract from 'Her Majesties Governments Highway code' (actual book title)
So those are the nationally accepted standard braking distances that are 'On average roads in average conditions in an average car, that you should anticipate needing. I guess there is an equivalent chart in the U.S. but related to 'Drivers Ed'?
No problem with real brake (Except ABS error signal). But... My emergency brake on my XK8 (LHD) absolutely not working. Guess too many drivers know how to neglect it, due to its special engagement or feel that if you don't know it, specific to the car, you would think it is already broken and would drive, disregarding its existence! Yes, Jaguar fanboys know it how, but that's usually too late!! So my request to Jag: Either change the design or have an engine rav disabler, linked to the engaged signal of the handbrake.
Interesting Point Sam
I am of course very aware of how to use the unusual XK8 handbrake lever but must admit to occasionally pulling away with it engaged (which is due to my other regular drives having auto handbrake release plus the Jag engine hardly notices the handbrake being on)
Mine has an audible signal when you drive with it on.
Your reduced power idea is good. As is possibly a link to the transmission lock?.🤔
Thanks Sam👍
Did you left foot brake it lol
Left foot braking in an Auto depends on a level of modulation that I lack. I think my left foot is digital whilst my right is analogue😁
Nice one John as always very informative, by the way are you a member of Jaguar Enthusiasts Club ? if not check them out at jec.org.uk/ I think you'll like them, also check out Saloon Lovers at www.jag-lovers.org/saloons/ they cover ALL models of Jaguar and it's free to join
My Standard brakes to much dusty
Reds are pretty dusty too, I have an XK8 with the same brake setup.
Yes Jacob and Udo, I think if brake dust reduction is your main goal then reds are probably not your best solution. I have done 700 miles since that video and the wheels are very dirty. But at least that dirt is now pale grey rather than charcoal coloured as previously. The ceramic dust does seem to wash off very easily at least though
Yes, John it will be a eternal Problem. We must wash end clean so much, because we are xk8 lovers. 😹😂
So basically you can actually drive a lot faster because you stop a lot sooner.