I'm impressed that you had the guts to try soldering on a circuit board like this for the first time! Good job and congrats on the repair. (mine is still going strong)
Thanks for recording this video. I have a broken female DC jack on an HP Monitor that needs replacement. I like the idea of mounting a remotely located jack and not having to do a circuit board repair to fix this problem.
@@LearnLizard I just purchased the parts. I know where the + and - is on the DC board based on your video (have no multimeter yet) , but is the Radio Shack part referenced where the - and + should be?
@@eddieloius4592 All that matters is that the plug and the jack match- ...so if you solder the "+" connection from the circuit board to the tip or pin of the jack, the plug needs to match the polarity and be supplying "+" voltage. (thats how mine is wired) Hope that makes sense and good luck!
Nice - I got 2 adapter problems. They both work intermittenly and go out. Don't know if it's a Adapter problem or a jack problem. How do you tell which is bad ?
If you have a multimeter (you can get them really cheap) you can put the leads on the adapter's barrel jack and see if the current coming from it is steady. If it is, it's probably the jack on the device. Good luck and hope you get it figured out.
This was very helpful. I put my power jack in another location that worked out well and did not have any danger of shorting to the shielding foil. Also the shape of the jack nut fit just inside the walls in the pocket and prevented it from turning. Just to the left of the molded in strain relief horse shoe in the very corner on the back. Worked perfectly. Also out the side under the handle is a great place with tons of room and the power cable can be wrapped around the handle for strain relief. Wish I could post pictures in this comment.... I also designed and 3d printed a closeout plate to cover the unused rectangular hole, just hot glued it in. A much more robust power input system now, plus the adapters with the new standard plug are much easier and cheaper to find. I had to fix both my flaky X50s and I'm sure that I will need to do this to my other 3. I am a huge fan of this little board. Its the best for live performance.😃😃
Mr LearnLizard, great idea on bypassing the failed "jack port" on the original power circuit board. At time stamp 1:28 you are IDing the polarity of the current. Do you know what the 3rd post for on the failed port does or is for?. IF you look closely you see three solder points, 1 is Positive, 1 is negative, and the 3rd? At first I thought maybe it was a ground, but I'm thinking that wrong, since there is no ground on the adapter power supply. I'm not an electronics guy, but I'm looking at doing something similar to what you did here, however, I wondering what the other post on the jack port does. Any ideas?!?
A couple additional things, specifically about the X50 power jack. I was not able to find a replacement for the keyboard's EIAJ IV jack. That meant I needed to replace both the jack and the power adapter's plug with something else. I used a standard Boss 5.5mm jack and plug. Also, the video doesn't show the keyboard's shielding and it also is a "gottcha" waiting to happen. If you use a metal jack like he did in the video, and you wire it in normal center-negative polarity, then the outside of the jack will be positive and will ground against the shielding. I worked around this by putting a large piece of heat-shrink tubing around the jack's body after I'd soldered the wires to it and installing it (before wiring the other end of the wires to the circuit board). I also folded the shielding back so it couldn't brush against the nut holding the jack in.
Thanks for those additional notes. Yeah, I replaced both the jack and the power supply's plug as a set. The big foil keyboard shield came out easily for me with no issues, and after years now, my x50 is still going strong!
Update: Repair shop said my power supply was bad…which they swapped out with a good one. However, back of board where power cord goes still gets pretty warm…but at least it’s working. Thanks for taking time to reply. 👍
I just got thru doing this to a couple of my X50s and I used the area right by the order of the keyboard on the far left for my new Jack. However, this jack/keyboard is wired center-positive so the outside of the jack should be just ground so touching the shielding should not matter. However better to be safe then sorry.
Hi- I used a 2.1mm jack and plug because they seemed to be the most common, but you could use other sizes as long as its a matching pair. Appreciate you watching!
Thanks for this have exactly the same Korg with this problem only something metal inside has bent inwards suddenly meaning adaptor won't allow the lead inside....
I've had that happen on more than one keyboard/effect. Sometimes you can fix by sticking a small screwdriver into the jack and straightening the connector, but sometimes it breaks off :(
Thank you for this video ! I also have this problem with Korg SP 250 digital piano. How to determine plus and minus that you did in this video ? I dont have that instrument ?
That instrument is a multimeter and you can get inexpensive ones like this: www.harborfreight.com/7-Function-Digital-Multimeter-63759.html I'm not sure of any other way to test and be sure that you have the polarity right except by trial and error.
Connectors are usually named by their barrel size but it can be hard to get the right internal pin size. Back when there used to be Radio Shacks I would go in and match the jacks in a store. Now I try to research it online and do an Amazon return if I an wrong (which has been more than once)
Hello, thanks for the super video. My son just broke his Casio PX-135's port and I have to do this exact fix. What is the radio shack part number? Thanks in advance!
You need to use a Multimeter. You can buy really inexpensive ones on Amazon. You set it to measure volts and put the red lead on one wire and the black on the second wire or jack connection. Then you read the meter to see the polarity. (It's easier than it sounds!) Good luck and thanks for watching.
Thats a good question. Some keyboards have very tight spaces between their circuit boards and outer cases so could be a challange. Probably have to crack it open to see how much space you have inside to work with. Appreciate you watching!
Had same issue. Took to local "Korg Authorized" repair shop. I'm guessing he did the same thing...only now the back of my X50 where the power plug attaches gets warm and the brick really warm. Thinking he didn't do something right. Any guesstimation? Thanks... Phogstr
If I were to upgrade the internals of my microscopes led to handle 12 volts would the original 5 volt female jack work? Or are jack inputs interchangeable so as long as the polarity (center negative) is the same.
mine took a fall years ago, and has net been used since. I plugged it in today, it's dead, but if I wiggle the jack it powers on and off like yours. wondering if I can fix it by reflowing the solder joints..maybe its just a single joint that got loose. I gotta replace a couple of broken keys as well..don't know where I will get them from?? will try fix the jack issue first, what size jacks?? was it 2.1mm?? I was planning on taking to the electronics shop and get as matching jack for the dc walwart
Reflowing the solder is tricky. Its hard because the paths on the board are so tiny and I'm always afraid I'm going to damage a component. Plus it will probably crack again after use. There is a set of replacement x-50 keys on eBay right now. (I find most of my rare parts there) Regarding the jack, I bought a new male/female pair and replaced the male plug on the power supply because Korg uses a weird one that was difficult to find a panel mount female jack for. Good luck! (the x-50 in an awesome synth)
@@LearnLizard good point, replacing both male and female ends makes sense..yes as long as they match, the size is not an issue...good tip. 3 pin dc jacks have always confused me. i recently figured out how to identify pins with a dmm and that extra 3rd pin has continuity with the + pin, and it used to allow connection of batteries as well as the jack in things like effects pedals etc thanks heaps, i will track those replacement keys on ebay cheers
The multimeter should have a setting that measures DC Volts. There will be a black lead that plugs into a "negative" jack on the meter and red for "positive". If you have the leads touching correctly (plus touching positive and minus touching the negative) the meter will read a positive voltage. If they are reversed it will read negative. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching!
I have a DMX Lighting Controller that looks like the Lixada Show Designer, It has the same issue with the DC Power Jack as shown in the video. I opened the Controller up and took out the screws on the little circuit board where the power jack is, it didn't came out because there was glue so strong that I couldn't pull it from the case and i'm afraid to break the board, how to I take the little circuit board off of the glue without breaking the board
Can you solder new wires to where the connector is soldered to the board without removing it? That might work. I've loosened up stubborn glue with a hair dryer in certain instances, but you have to be careful that you don't get any of the components too hot. Hope you can make it work!
You put the leads of the VOM on the circuit board. If the meter goes positive then the red (positive lead) is on the positive tab. If it goes negative its the reverse. Hope that helps and thanks for watching...
So is this better then replacing the original dc and using the Korg part? Are you using the original power cable too? I actually have the micro X which is pretty much the same keyboard but smaller footprint. How come you chose to go this route over direct factory replacement. Awesome video!!! Thanks
Hi Marco- I had an OEM power adapter with the same specs as as the original x-50 and used a female socket to match it. It was easier than removing the surface mounted one that broke (and I think more "bomb proof") I also have a micro X but so far that cable is behaving :) Thanks for watching!
LearnLizard thanks for reply. I have to go this route any ways, I guess Korg doesn’t carry or produce the factory replacement part for this model of keyboard anymore.
@@LearnLizard I wish you would have mentioned that you changed the power adaptor before I ordered that jack from Radio Shack. What kind of OEM power adapter do you use?
@@billcarter781 I had a generic 12V DC 500mA adapter with a common 5.5 x 2.1mm plug such as this: www.amazon.com/Alrolink-Adapter-Security-Cameras-Accessories/dp/B07MFBP17P/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1B7FNU0YCXEUX&keywords=12v+dc+500ma+power+supply&qid=1577730488&s=electronics&sprefix=12V+DC+500%2Celectronics%2C194&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFTVTZBT1BKVTREMlomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxNDUzMjIyN1hXSTFFTk44NU9DJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNTc5NzYyUkZCUVkzV1ZXSjFSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== I hope you can get it all sorted out and thanks for watching...
I couldn't easily find a jack to match the old plug, so I got a new common plug/jack pair and then soldered the new plug onto the old cord. Appreciate you watching!
Funny thing.. when I opened my X50 , there were gobs of solder all around the jack, so I took it to someone to do it for me.. well it's loose again.. this time I'm gonna repair it like you did and be done with it.. I'm glad I saved your video..
Hi, like the video, I have a Zoom B9.1ut guitar pedal with a wobbly jack that cuts out intermittently and often if touched or moved slightly. I have a replacement barrel jack and was going to solder it to the board but it seems impossible to desolder the old one so I may do this instead... what wire would I use? I believe it is 12V and 3 Amp input. Thanks
I'd use 22 or 24AWG stranded copper wire. Yes- It's really hard to remove/replace those mounted jacks without damaging something- thats why I decided to bypass the whole jack. Good luck getting the pedal working. Intermittent power is no good!
Mine's a Yamaha Mox6, but same prob. A friend repaired a Motif ES rack I have w identical prob by simply re-soldering where the jack connects to pc-board, so I'm gonna try that first, case it's just a dry-joint again. If that don't work, I'll install a whole new jack. Thanks, Bro !
Good luck re-soldering to the board. Thats definitely the quickest and easiest solve as long as the stress of the jack doesn't crack the joint again. Appreciate you watching!
You can basically buy and use any male/female jack/plug combination. As long as the jack can be mounted in the keyboard and wired to the circuit board, and the matching plug can be soldered to the external power supply leads, you should be golden.
You probably are OK if you just reversed the polarity momentarily. (I have done that without frying the circuit) Hopefully you can get it working once everything is wired properly. Thanks for watching!
I have a Dc9v power jack which I just can't get to fit with a Dc9v cord. I've tried with two cords of this kind but the metal pole thingy in the jack is just too big for the hole. Do you have any idea why this might be or what I should do? Should I replace it like in this video?
There are so many different kinds of of DC jacks its always a challenge to find the correct male/female pair. I have a Universal adapter with multiple tips like this: amzn.to/3sCQQwg You can start off trying to see if the correct tip and voltage will work with your device and hopefully avoid any complicated repair.
I'm not exactly sure, but many keyboards and electronic devices have surface mounted power jacks that come loose with wear, so I'm guessing its the same with Casio devices. Thanks!
@@LearnLizard Even the high end Casio boards have flimsy adapters- a great weak point for otherwise great boards. Thank you for your reply! I will be attempting to repair mine this week.
@@LearnLizard reporting that I could fix my board after I followed your instructions. The new power unit had a thicker pin, so the original adapter did not fit. I use the adapter which had interchangeable pins and voltage. The new pin is much more solid and doesn't wiggle around. I did not have to drill anything, just replace the existing plug. Thank you again for taking your time and making your video, Mr Lizard!
I have a broken jack that gets no power at all, so I’m not sure how to determine the polarity of the leads without trial and error. If I guess, and wire it up one way, how will I know if the polarity is correct or not? Thanks for the video!
Lots of times the circuit board is printed with a tiny "+" or "-" so that is one way you might tell. Or you could try getting a schematic and deciphering, but that can be tricky. I would probably just take the 2 raw wire leads from the power adapter and try touching them to the circuit board to "trial and error" which one is which. You run a risk of damaging the circuit board but most circuits are protected and can take reverse polarity without being damaged. Just know that you run that possible risk.
@@LearnLizard Thanks for the reply, I think I found out how to do this; using the resistance setting on my multimeter, I touched the pad in the existing jack and each solder point. The one showed a number, and the other one showed OF, just as if there was no circuit, so I was able to conclude that the front point is connected to the pad, and the back point is connected to the pin.
Hi Mr Lizard i've a MIcro X and I've used a too high Amperage on it one time so nows only works with its MIDI funciona but do not produce any Audio... I see that there is 2 regulators on this little power supply board... I think One is for 5 V anthe other (the burnt one) maybe is 12 V... Have you ever had this problem ? Thank You
Hmm- I've never had that problem thankfully. The Micro X and the X50 take a single 12V DC power source so I don't think there is a separate 5V feed. I hope you can figure it out- the Micro X is an awesome little synth!
Thank for the video but as I'm not a techinician, I've not the equipments to fix it. But I've bought a new DC power connector but the pin is bigest than the original one. Is possible to adapt it or certainly is the card ? Thank you.
I've seen adapters for sale that change the jack from one size to another. You also might consider buying a universal power adapter that comes with a variety of jack sizes. Other than that you could buy a soldering iron and learn to solder. Its really pretty easy. Appreciate you watching!
Hello thanks for the video i have a Roland RP30 and yesterday when i was playing the noise in the speakers where making vibration noises so i removed the plug from DC and put it back and now it is not turning on any tips on how to fix it without taking the piano apart i hope anyone can help thanks for the video
I would first try cleaning out the jack- with compressed air (or other blower) then with rubbing alcohol on a q-tip. Also sometimes you can bend the connectors on the plug itself to make a better contact. (thats assuming the power supply is still working and hasn't shorted out) You can test that with a multimeter to make sure. Hope you get it working!
Hey Brother thx for the video. Fixed Mine! X50 Did everything the same. Except for the wire. I used 20gauge to connect the jacks Keyboard works. However it seems to get hot. The chip where the original jack is. Any suggestions?
Certain chips get tend to get a little hot - within their normal operating temperature. I'm guessing its OK- moving the jack shouldn't have effected it. Glad you got it working!
Can you help? I have a keyboard (musical), and I plugged in the wrong adapter (took 9v, I must have used something higher) and I believe it fried something (it doesn't work now). I love that keyboard, I've had it since 1989. Could you offer any ideas/suggestions as to what the problem might be and how to fix it? Thank you :)
Ouch! Does it respond in any way when you try to power it up with the correct power adapter? If there is nothing you may have damaged the internal power supply circuitry. If it powers up at all but isn't working correctly you could try doing a factory reset. Depending on what it is, it might not even be worth trying to fix. Sorry I'm not more help and sure hope you can figure something out.
Same problem with a fp4, but the connector it’s very stable. The dc adapter works, i tried replacing it and using it with another keyboard, still trying to fix it..
I need to fix my Korg Krome 73. I tripped over the ac adapter, and it pulled the wire out. Now it will not work. Any suggestions for the Korg Krome 73?
Did the wire break on the AC adapter or did the jack break on the keyboard? I've broken SO many AC adapter cords :( Its easy to solder the wires back together- just make sure you don't reverse the polarity. If the wire pulled out of the adapter itself its probably best to just buy a new one. If the jack on the board is damaged, now that's another story. You are probably going to have to pull everything apart and replace. Good luck!
@@LearnLizard there is a back panel that I unscrewed, but I can't take it off. Its the connector, not the ac adapter. Thank you for your reply. This could not have happened at a worse time. I want to take it apart, but scared to.
@@artpekarekiii4320 Sometimes the back panel is held in place by screws AND the jacks that connect to the circuit board. You could try removing the nuts from the jacks to see if it will come off. As long as you are gentle and can remember the steps to put it back together, it may be worth a try. I hope you succeed!!
@@LearnLizard. I took the screws off the panel, and I tried to pry the panel off with no success. I want to force the panel off. I put the screws back on the panel because the panel is too difficult to take off. Thank you LeanLizard. I will wait for now, or until I know more.
Hi , thank you , but i have another problem with my x50 : i can hear a high frequency sound coming from my keyboard next to the power button ( but it's not coming from my power charger ) the sound disappears few minuts later , and when i play with high velocity , sound comes again . the sound is VERY annoying what do you suggest ? i have my x50 since a lots of years but it works perfectly .
Hmm- Is the sound actually coming from inside the x-50? It could be coming from a transformer or ceramic capacitor on the circuit board that is failing. If you are adventurous you could try to identify and replace the cap. If its a transformer it could be impossible to find an equivalent replacement, but you could try coating it with silicone rubber to deaden the sound. Or just wait until you get older like me and you won't be able to hear it at all!
@@LearnLizard problem resolved ! problem was not coming from my x50 but from the power charge ! i noticed my power charge did the SAME horrible high sound that inside my x50 ( yes yes , in my x50 AND into my power charge . ) i just bought a new power charge .
@@pykemanosbeats I’m sorry to barge in on your conversation. I have the same problem. There is a high pitch buzzing sound around the power button. What did you do to resolve your problem. Thank you very much.
Guess I have to try this on my worn out battery charger turnigy accucel 6, it started heating up around the barrel jack, its like 10 years old. Thank you
Muito boa a solução, seria formidável se houvesse uma solução de display paralelo para substituir o display do korg x50, já que o original é difícil de encontrar e se encontra é caro
🙏* * * HELP please! * * * 🙏 Hi, Steve from LearnLizard, once again at first many thanks for your helpful hints solving this known problem on the KORG X50! I also had this damage like many other users - my instrument is 16 years old and I used it often. According to your advice I tested it directly by soldering a 12 V wire from the power pack to the two contact points on the circuit board (correct polarity, 12 V measured). But after powering on, the X50 does not come into normal working mode. Only the display is backlit, but no text is shown. This happened already before - after wiggling the plug was no longer successful in supplying the device with power correctly. Apparently the small adapter board has got any defect additionally? Unfortunately you can hardly get this module anywhere as a replacement since the production has already been discontinued. What to do now? 🤔 Can it be perhaps that a predetermined counter is built in to refuse the function after 16 years and xxxx hours of operation when reached? The X50 has never been broken and has always been treated with care. I really want to keep using it because I am really satisfied with this synthesizer. I'm very grateful for every further tip or hint! Thanks in advance! 🙏🙏🙏
Hi- I'm sorry to hear about those problems. Yes it sounds like there might be some additional component failure on the circuit board. I don't think there is any built in counter but I do know that delicate components can fail after years and years of use. Your best bet might be to find a used one on eBay. Sometimes I have seen them go for very small amounts of money. Good luck!
@@LearnLizard Thank you so much for your answer, Steve! This little power board is indeed heavy to find, also at eBay quasi not. So I try to substitue it in a selfmade way. I have measured the 3 voltages that should be 11,5 V / 5 V / 3,3 V. Especially the 3,3 V Output doesn't fit anymore. There are merely 1 V. That declares, why the display is backlighted but nothing to read inside the screen, also no buttons are lightened up red after Power On (the ICs apparently don't get their operating voltage of 3,3 V for digital empowerment). So I ordered a Miniboard (DC-DC-Converter) which steps down from 12 V to 3,3 V (adjustable). I hope this will help since the other voltages are correctly present. I will report about my efforts and success, so the other readers here can benefit from it. The delivery of this little Converter board will last up to 3 weeks though. I bought it in a 5-pack (special offer), so I will have sparing parts in any similar cases ... A price of under 10 € is fine for that 5 pieces together, isn't it?
Hi- I'm not sure exactly what you are asking. A keyboard like this takes more power than an average battery pack can supply-- so you need an AC adapter plugged into a wall socket. Yes a project like this can be a bit tricky especially if you have never soldered!
@@terryfauzifan9459 Yes- and that's a more likely chance of what is wrong. You can usually find replacement adapters on eBay for pretty cheap. (best option if you are not good at soldering wires back together)
Parabens ideia genial deveria o fabricante adotar desta forma que você fez evitaria o estrago na placa main e facilitaria a troca do Jack Power muito bom🇧🇷👍👍👍👍
Obrigado. Eu gostaria que a Korg (e outros fabricantes) fizessem conectores de alimentação dessa forma. Os conectores montados na superfície podem causar muitos problemas. Obrigado por assistir!
The old jack had 3 tiny pins that that were soldered directly to the circuit board - Its nearly impossible to solder a tiny pin back together. You could buy an identical jack and re solder it to the same circuit board but I was afraid of the same thing happening again so decided to bypass the jack entirely.
@@LearnLizard exactly problem will be back again and again so when a shop ask 80 euros it s like a waste of money .... make this changement is useful when you are skilled for, i m not and i dont want destroy my micro X well i can use it this way but not fun at all to play like that ....
You can buy a new jack and replace the broken one if you follow the steps in this video. The X-50 is a great keyboard and worth the time and effort to fix!
Great tutorial, planning to do this fix/upgrade to my Casio keyboard. Can you describe how to use the multimeter to identify the correct polarity of each node on the board?
Sure- most multimeters have a "+" and a "-" lead (usually red and black) If you set the meter to "DC Volts" in a 0-25V range, you will know the positive and negative points on the board when the meter shows a positive 9V reading when the leads are touching those points. Hope that makes sense and good luck!
Why not just replace the pcb mount female plug like-for-like? Or at least remove it entirely and mount in the existing location. Possibly would have been able to repair it as it was anyway (but can’t say without seeing how it was broken)
A couple reasons- it's not a "standard" jack size and I wasn't sure how to find an exact replacement. Also, I was worried about damaging the circuit board with too much heat (I'm not the most skillful solderer) And finally, all the stress is on the mounts of the jack and I didn't want them to break again. It was much easier (for me) to just solder leads to the board and use a standard jack (that fit my standard power adapter) I admit it was a little awkward to have to drill a whole new hole in the case, but it's still working great after a lot of use.
@@LearnLizard Replacing the old one, it would probably break it again, like you I added a 5.5mm 2.1 jack which will last a lot longer. plus easier to find an adaptor!
If you could find the correct replacement jack you would have to desolder the old one from the PC board and then solder the new one on. Not only is that a very delicate job (with the risk of damaging the adjoining components with too much heat) but I was afraid that the exact same problem would happen again with the jack cracking the solder joint. I know its crazy drilling the hole but it definitely worked!
how i wish to have same for my korg MICROX :/ who has same issue ... but it s too complicated for me, i asked to change this plastic shit to a repair shop they ask me 80euros only to change the plastic part to have same issu in the future : NO WAY... this idea of metal is really better ... but i cant do it .... i m not skilled for that. good job !!! my new MODWAVE is also ship plastic but KORG did something better and this kind of problem wont come normally .... but i regreat my KORG microX i can use like that but if i move machine can turn off, sad..... +1 people who put -14 cant probably do it ... lol like me but for me it s a big +1
You probably could do this although I admit its a little bit scary. If you just solder a wired jack to the circuit board (or find a friend that knows how to solder) you could just have the wires and free jack come out through the back hole. (no need to drill and mount a panel jack) Good luck- The Micro-X is a great synth and worth rescuing (I used to have 2 lol)
The problem with my keyboard is described at the beginning of this video ruclips.net/video/-yV3fGjADR8/видео.html - your method appears sufficient - between that video where he installed the power supply inside and yours where you more simply installed a new power jack - are these the only two possible methods?
I think the very best way might be to buy a female connector exactly like the one that is damaged and replacing it with the new one. (thats what a professional musical repair shop would probably do) The tricky thing about that is not only finding the exact part, but when removing the old one you risk damaging the circuit board either form heat or stress. Plus I didn't want to have the same problem again in the future!
Why wouldn’t you just swap out the same dc input jack right back on the board? Then you wouldn’t have to drill. I came here cuz i need to swap that exact dc input jack on my wah pedal, but ive never swapped components on an actual pc board.So i guess i hafta keep searching RUclips.Any tips to share? Again, im curious why you chose to make a custom jack instead of just replacing the dc input jack?
The reason I added a whole new jack is because the way Korg designed this is flawed (IMHO) All the stress of the the plug in the jack is put on the tiny connector pins that are soldered to the PC board. I wanted to make sure I had a solution that wouldn't break again in the future. Appreciate you watching!
@@LearnLizard Makes sense! I actually found how to fix it myself. There is a small metal plate inside the input hole itself.Its supposed to be bent in a “U” shape in order to make contact with the power adapters plug sleeve as it enters in. apparently mine flattened out over time, not making contact with the sleeve.I took a safety pin, and with a pair of needle nose pliers, i bent the pin in the shape of a hook. Then inserted “hook” into metal plate and bent back into a “U” shape. Im guessing this wasn’t your problem, but im happy we both fixed our problem.thanks for the reply.
Thanks, this is so helpful. My very first soldering job and I've fixed my X50 with your guidance..and added a jack that its easy to find adaptors for.
I'm impressed that you had the guts to try soldering on a circuit board like this for the first time! Good job and congrats on the repair. (mine is still going strong)
Thanks for recording this video. I have a broken female DC jack on an HP Monitor that needs replacement. I like the idea of mounting a remotely located jack and not having to do a circuit board repair to fix this problem.
Thanks for watching- I needed a "bomb proof" connection and I knew soldering a jack to the circuit board just wasn't going to cut it...
You are Batman!
My son played with the headphone jack so much it broke. You gave me a new idea. Take apart & replace port from the inside. Thanks!❤
I'm glad it gave you a new idea! Good luck with the repair and appreciate you watching...
Thanks a lot this is really going to help my student with her broken piano!
Glad its helpful and appreciate you watching!
Thanks so much man, been looking for this video. My Korg X50 had this problem from day 1. Thanks so much for sharing!
Glad it could help! (P.S. I still love my X50 after all these years)
@@LearnLizard I just purchased the parts. I know where the + and - is on the DC board based on your video (have no multimeter yet) , but is the Radio Shack part referenced where the - and + should be?
@@eddieloius4592 All that matters is that the plug and the jack match-
...so if you solder the "+" connection from the circuit board to the tip or pin of the jack, the plug needs to match the polarity and be supplying "+" voltage. (thats how mine is wired) Hope that makes sense and good luck!
@@LearnLizard yeah, i should have just purchased the Korg TR - Much better
Nice - I got 2 adapter problems. They both work intermittenly and go out. Don't know if it's a Adapter problem or a jack problem. How do you tell which is bad ?
If you have a multimeter (you can get them really cheap) you can put the leads on the adapter's barrel jack and see if the current coming from it is steady. If it is, it's probably the jack on the device. Good luck and hope you get it figured out.
I tried this but unfortunately my power was on and I have had an electrical fire. Had to evacuate half of the street 😞
Geez- I hope no animals or small children were injured!
this kind of thing yep you need to know a bit myself i cant i wont take any risk ... evacuate half of the street hum you exxagerate a bit lol
This was very helpful. I put my power jack in another location that worked out well and did not have any danger of shorting to the shielding foil. Also the shape of the jack nut fit just inside the walls in the pocket and prevented it from turning. Just to the left of the molded in strain relief horse shoe in the very corner on the back. Worked perfectly. Also out the side under the handle is a great place with tons of room and the power cable can be wrapped around the handle for strain relief. Wish I could post pictures in this comment.... I also designed and 3d printed a closeout plate to cover the unused rectangular hole, just hot glued it in. A much more robust power input system now, plus the adapters with the new standard plug are much easier and cheaper to find. I had to fix both my flaky X50s and I'm sure that I will need to do this to my other 3. I am a huge fan of this little board. Its the best for live performance.😃😃
Mr LearnLizard, great idea on bypassing the failed "jack port" on the original power circuit board. At time stamp 1:28 you are IDing the polarity of the current. Do you know what the 3rd post for on the failed port does or is for?. IF you look closely you see three solder points, 1 is Positive, 1 is negative, and the 3rd? At first I thought maybe it was a ground, but I'm thinking that wrong, since there is no ground on the adapter power supply. I'm not an electronics guy, but I'm looking at doing something similar to what you did here, however, I wondering what the other post on the jack port does. Any ideas?!?
I think that third post is just for holding the jack securely to the PC board (so it has a 3 point "tripod" support) Thanks for watching this one!
Thank you very much for this video. I have been having this annoying issue with my x50
A couple additional things, specifically about the X50 power jack. I was not able to find a replacement for the keyboard's EIAJ IV jack. That meant I needed to replace both the jack and the power adapter's plug with something else. I used a standard Boss 5.5mm jack and plug. Also, the video doesn't show the keyboard's shielding and it also is a "gottcha" waiting to happen. If you use a metal jack like he did in the video, and you wire it in normal center-negative polarity, then the outside of the jack will be positive and will ground against the shielding. I worked around this by putting a large piece of heat-shrink tubing around the jack's body after I'd soldered the wires to it and installing it (before wiring the other end of the wires to the circuit board). I also folded the shielding back so it couldn't brush against the nut holding the jack in.
Thanks for those additional notes. Yeah, I replaced both the jack and the power supply's plug as a set. The big foil keyboard shield came out easily for me with no issues, and after years now, my x50 is still going strong!
Update: Repair shop said my power supply was bad…which they swapped out with a good one. However, back of board where power cord goes still gets pretty warm…but at least it’s working. Thanks for taking time to reply. 👍
I just got thru doing this to a couple of my X50s and I used the area right by the order of the keyboard on the far left for my new Jack. However, this jack/keyboard is wired center-positive so the outside of the jack should be just ground so touching the shielding should not matter. However better to be safe then sorry.
That is fucking brilliant.... I've had a Micro X sitting on the shelf for 3+ years and this should get me back in business. Thanks!
Good luck with the repair. I've had 2 Micro X's through the years and they are great little synths. Amazing sounds for the price!
Thanks for the good fix it yourself video
I appreciate you watching!
Wow, that's exactly my problem, too. So your video helps a lot, I'll try it that way. 👍👍👍 🙏
Good luck and I hope it fixes the problem 🙂
Hello! what is the size of the female panel mount?
Hi- I used a 2.1mm jack and plug because they seemed to be the most common, but you could use other sizes as long as its a matching pair. Appreciate you watching!
@@LearnLizard Thanks! a have another question.
Thanks. Could you share whit me the specs of the new cable? Does it have a little pin at the end?
Thanks for this have exactly the same Korg with this problem only something metal inside has bent inwards suddenly meaning adaptor won't allow the lead inside....
I've had that happen on more than one keyboard/effect. Sometimes you can fix by sticking a small screwdriver into the jack and straightening the connector, but sometimes it breaks off :(
Thank you for this video ! I also have this problem with Korg SP 250 digital piano. How to determine plus and minus that you did in this video ? I dont have that instrument ?
That instrument is a multimeter and you can get inexpensive ones like this: www.harborfreight.com/7-Function-Digital-Multimeter-63759.html
I'm not sure of any other way to test and be sure that you have the polarity right except by trial and error.
Thanks for sharing, I have same problem on LG TV DC power jack, I wonder how did you find right jack for that power supply?
Connectors are usually named by their barrel size but it can be hard to get the right internal pin size. Back when there used to be Radio Shacks I would go in and match the jacks in a store. Now I try to research it online and do an Amazon return if I an wrong (which has been more than once)
Hello, thanks for the super video. My son just broke his Casio PX-135's port and I have to do this exact fix. What is the radio shack part number? Thanks in advance!
How do you find out which one is positive and which is negative?
You need to use a Multimeter. You can buy really inexpensive ones on Amazon. You set it to measure volts and put the red lead on one wire and the black on the second wire or jack connection. Then you read the meter to see the polarity. (It's easier than it sounds!) Good luck and thanks for watching.
This is awesome! Would this Female DC jack fit all keyboards? Like the mini kids casio boards as well? Thanks
Thats a good question. Some keyboards have very tight spaces between their circuit boards and outer cases so could be a challange. Probably have to crack it open to see how much space you have inside to work with. Appreciate you watching!
Had same issue. Took to local "Korg Authorized" repair shop. I'm guessing he did the same thing...only now the back of my X50 where the power plug attaches gets warm and the brick really warm. Thinking he didn't do something right. Any guesstimation? Thanks... Phogstr
I've found that if the power supply doesn't provide enough amps it can overheat. You might want to check that.
If I were to upgrade the internals of my microscopes led to handle 12 volts would the original 5 volt female jack work? Or are jack inputs interchangeable so as long as the polarity (center negative) is the same.
I believe it should. Most low voltage power jacks will handle at least 12V. Thanks for watching.
mine took a fall years ago, and has net been used since. I plugged it in today, it's dead, but if I wiggle the jack it powers on and off like yours. wondering if I can fix it by reflowing the solder joints..maybe its just a single joint that got loose. I gotta replace a couple of broken keys as well..don't know where I will get them from?? will try fix the jack issue first, what size jacks?? was it 2.1mm?? I was planning on taking to the electronics shop and get as matching jack for the dc walwart
Reflowing the solder is tricky. Its hard because the paths on the board are so tiny and I'm always afraid I'm going to damage a component. Plus it will probably crack again after use.
There is a set of replacement x-50 keys on eBay right now. (I find most of my rare parts there)
Regarding the jack, I bought a new male/female pair and replaced the male plug on the power supply because Korg uses a weird one that was difficult to find a panel mount female jack for.
Good luck! (the x-50 in an awesome synth)
@@LearnLizard good point, replacing both male and female ends makes sense..yes as long as they match, the size is not an issue...good tip. 3 pin dc jacks have always confused me. i recently figured out how to identify pins with a dmm and that extra 3rd pin has continuity with the + pin, and it used to allow connection of batteries as well as the jack in things like effects pedals etc thanks heaps, i will track those replacement keys on ebay cheers
Could you explain a little the testing if which is positve vs negative, like what your voltmeter us set to and what it should read?
The multimeter should have a setting that measures DC Volts. There will be a black lead that plugs into a "negative" jack on the meter and red for "positive". If you have the leads touching correctly (plus touching positive and minus touching the negative) the meter will read a positive voltage. If they are reversed it will read negative. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching!
Thank you very much sir. for making this video
Thank you very much for watching!
I have a DMX Lighting Controller that looks like the Lixada Show Designer, It has the same issue with the DC Power Jack as shown in the video. I opened the Controller up and took out the screws on the little circuit board where the power jack is, it didn't came out because there was glue so strong that I couldn't pull it from the case and i'm afraid to break the board, how to I take the little circuit board off of the glue without breaking the board
Can you solder new wires to where the connector is soldered to the board without removing it? That might work. I've loosened up stubborn glue with a hair dryer in certain instances, but you have to be careful that you don't get any of the components too hot. Hope you can make it work!
1:23 How do we know which one is positive?
You put the leads of the VOM on the circuit board. If the meter goes positive then the red (positive lead) is on the positive tab. If it goes negative its the reverse. Hope that helps and thanks for watching...
So is this better then replacing the original dc and using the Korg part? Are you using the original power cable too? I actually have the micro X which is pretty much the same keyboard but smaller footprint. How come you chose to go this route over direct factory replacement. Awesome video!!!
Thanks
Hi Marco- I had an OEM power adapter with the same specs as as the original x-50 and used a female socket to match it. It was easier than removing the surface mounted one that broke (and I think more "bomb proof") I also have a micro X but so far that cable is behaving :)
Thanks for watching!
LearnLizard thanks for reply. I have to go this route any ways, I guess Korg doesn’t carry or produce the factory replacement part for this model of keyboard anymore.
@@LearnLizard I wish you would have mentioned that you changed the power adaptor before I ordered that jack from Radio Shack. What kind of OEM power adapter do you use?
@@billcarter781 I had a generic 12V DC 500mA adapter with a common 5.5 x 2.1mm plug such as this: www.amazon.com/Alrolink-Adapter-Security-Cameras-Accessories/dp/B07MFBP17P/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1B7FNU0YCXEUX&keywords=12v+dc+500ma+power+supply&qid=1577730488&s=electronics&sprefix=12V+DC+500%2Celectronics%2C194&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFTVTZBT1BKVTREMlomZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxNDUzMjIyN1hXSTFFTk44NU9DJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNTc5NzYyUkZCUVkzV1ZXSjFSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I hope you can get it all sorted out and thanks for watching...
Was the the old power chord ?? Did you find a jack the same as the old one ??
I couldn't easily find a jack to match the old plug, so I got a new common plug/jack pair and then soldered the new plug onto the old cord. Appreciate you watching!
Funny thing.. when I opened my X50 , there were gobs of solder all around the jack, so I took it to someone to do it for me.. well it's loose again.. this time I'm gonna repair it like you did and be done with it.. I'm glad I saved your video..
Hi, like the video, I have a Zoom B9.1ut guitar pedal with a wobbly jack that cuts out intermittently and often if touched or moved slightly. I have a replacement barrel jack and was going to solder it to the board but it seems impossible to desolder the old one so I may do this instead... what wire would I use?
I believe it is 12V and 3 Amp input.
Thanks
I'd use 22 or 24AWG stranded copper wire. Yes- It's really hard to remove/replace those mounted jacks without damaging something- thats why I decided to bypass the whole jack. Good luck getting the pedal working. Intermittent power is no good!
Wow, thank you very much it solves so many problems.
Glad it helped and appreciate you watching!
Mine's a Yamaha Mox6, but same prob. A friend repaired a Motif ES rack I have w identical prob by simply re-soldering where the jack connects to pc-board, so I'm gonna try that first, case it's just a dry-joint again. If that don't work, I'll install a whole new jack. Thanks, Bro !
Good luck re-soldering to the board. Thats definitely the quickest and easiest solve as long as the stress of the jack doesn't crack the joint again. Appreciate you watching!
@@LearnLizard Cheers, it worked, luckily !
@@KitCotter Excellent!!
Question, when buying a replacement power jack to mount on do you have to find one specific to certain specifications of what your keyboard requires?
You can basically buy and use any male/female jack/plug combination. As long as the jack can be mounted in the keyboard and wired to the circuit board, and the matching plug can be soldered to the external power supply leads, you should be golden.
I believe I wired it incorrectly. If I did, is it officially broken due to blowing the circuit?
You probably are OK if you just reversed the polarity momentarily. (I have done that without frying the circuit) Hopefully you can get it working once everything is wired properly. Thanks for watching!
I have a Dc9v power jack which I just can't get to fit with a Dc9v cord. I've tried with two cords of this kind but the metal pole thingy in the jack is just too big for the hole. Do you have any idea why this might be or what I should do? Should I replace it like in this video?
There are so many different kinds of of DC jacks its always a challenge to find the correct male/female pair.
I have a Universal adapter with multiple tips like this:
amzn.to/3sCQQwg
You can start off trying to see if the correct tip and voltage will work with your device and hopefully avoid any complicated repair.
@@LearnLizard
Thank you for the answer! I will check out the universal one!
Thank you Mr Lizard! Any idea is Casio keyboards would be similar? Thank you!
I'm not exactly sure, but many keyboards and electronic devices have surface mounted power jacks that come loose with wear, so I'm guessing its the same with Casio devices. Thanks!
@@LearnLizard Even the high end Casio boards have flimsy adapters- a great weak point for otherwise great boards. Thank you for your reply! I will be attempting to repair mine this week.
@@LearnLizard reporting that I could fix my board after I followed your instructions. The new power unit had a thicker pin, so the original adapter did not fit. I use the adapter which had interchangeable pins and voltage. The new pin is much more solid and doesn't wiggle around. I did not have to drill anything, just replace the existing plug. Thank you again for taking your time and making your video, Mr Lizard!
@@QalinaCom Thanks for the great news-- I'm so happy your Casio is back up and running!
I have a broken jack that gets no power at all, so I’m not sure how to determine the polarity of the leads without trial and error. If I guess, and wire it up one way, how will I know if the polarity is correct or not? Thanks for the video!
Lots of times the circuit board is printed with a tiny "+" or "-" so that is one way you might tell. Or you could try getting a schematic and deciphering, but that can be tricky. I would probably just take the 2 raw wire leads from the power adapter and try touching them to the circuit board to "trial and error" which one is which. You run a risk of damaging the circuit board but most circuits are protected and can take reverse polarity without being damaged. Just know that you run that possible risk.
@@LearnLizard Thanks for the reply, I think I found out how to do this; using the resistance setting on my multimeter, I touched the pad in the existing jack and each solder point. The one showed a number, and the other one showed OF, just as if there was no circuit, so I was able to conclude that the front point is connected to the pad, and the back point is connected to the pin.
@@BrianSauerMusic Well that seems like a MUCH better way to do it. Thanks and hope that helps someone else with the same problem.
Thank you so much! JACK HACK 👍
You are most welcome! (X50 is still going strong BTW)
Hi Mr Lizard i've a MIcro X and I've used a too high Amperage on it one time so nows only works with its MIDI funciona but do not produce any Audio... I see that there is 2 regulators on this little power supply board... I think One is for 5 V anthe other (the burnt one) maybe is 12 V... Have you ever had this problem ?
Thank You
Hmm- I've never had that problem thankfully. The Micro X and the X50 take a single 12V DC power source so I don't think there is a separate 5V feed. I hope you can figure it out- the Micro X is an awesome little synth!
@@LearnLizard yes micro X is really good one ... :D ah if i could repair like you did ..... cos my problem is like you ....
Thank for the video but as I'm not a techinician, I've not the equipments to fix it. But I've bought a new DC power connector but the pin is bigest than the
original one. Is possible to adapt it or certainly is the card ? Thank you.
I've seen adapters for sale that change the jack from one size to another. You also might consider buying a universal power adapter that comes with a variety of jack sizes. Other than that you could buy a soldering iron and learn to solder. Its really pretty easy. Appreciate you watching!
Hello thanks for the video i have a Roland RP30 and yesterday when i was playing the noise in the speakers where making vibration noises so i removed the plug from DC and put it back and now it is not turning on any tips on how to fix it without taking the piano apart i hope anyone can help thanks for the video
I would first try cleaning out the jack- with compressed air (or other blower) then with rubbing alcohol on a q-tip. Also sometimes you can bend the connectors on the plug itself to make a better contact. (thats assuming the power supply is still working and hasn't shorted out) You can test that with a multimeter to make sure. Hope you get it working!
i repair thanks , very common problem but , very great and simple solution ,, i will do that , thanks a lot
Its worked very well for me - appreciate the kind words and good luck with your repair!
Hey Brother thx for the video.
Fixed Mine! X50
Did everything the same. Except for the wire. I used 20gauge to connect the jacks
Keyboard works.
However it seems to get hot. The chip where the original jack is.
Any suggestions?
Certain chips get tend to get a little hot - within their normal operating temperature. I'm guessing its OK- moving the jack shouldn't have effected it. Glad you got it working!
Can you help? I have a keyboard (musical), and I plugged in the wrong adapter (took 9v, I must have used something higher) and I believe it fried something (it doesn't work now). I love that keyboard, I've had it since 1989. Could you offer any ideas/suggestions as to what the problem might be and how to fix it? Thank you :)
Ouch! Does it respond in any way when you try to power it up with the correct power adapter? If there is nothing you may have damaged the internal power supply circuitry. If it powers up at all but isn't working correctly you could try doing a factory reset. Depending on what it is, it might not even be worth trying to fix. Sorry I'm not more help and sure hope you can figure something out.
Have you checked the fuse?
Same problem with a fp4, but the connector it’s very stable. The dc adapter works, i tried replacing it and using it with another keyboard, still trying to fix it..
Good luck and hope you get it working
I need to fix my Korg Krome 73. I tripped over the ac adapter, and it pulled the wire out. Now it will not work. Any suggestions for the Korg Krome 73?
Did the wire break on the AC adapter or did the jack break on the keyboard? I've broken SO many AC adapter cords :( Its easy to solder the wires back together- just make sure you don't reverse the polarity. If the wire pulled out of the adapter itself its probably best to just buy a new one.
If the jack on the board is damaged, now that's another story. You are probably going to have to pull everything apart and replace. Good luck!
@@LearnLizard there is a back panel that I unscrewed, but I can't take it off. Its the connector, not the ac adapter. Thank you for your reply. This could not have happened at a worse time. I want to take it apart, but scared to.
@@artpekarekiii4320 Sometimes the back panel is held in place by screws AND the jacks that connect to the circuit board. You could try removing the nuts from the jacks to see if it will come off. As long as you are gentle and can remember the steps to put it back together, it may be worth a try. I hope you succeed!!
@@LearnLizard. I took the screws off the panel, and I tried to pry the panel off with no success. I want to force the panel off. I put the screws back on the panel because the panel is too difficult to take off. Thank you LeanLizard. I will wait for now, or until I know more.
@@artpekarekiii4320 OK- I hope you get it all sorted out
Hi , thank you , but i have another problem with my x50 :
i can hear a high frequency sound coming from my keyboard next to the power button ( but it's not coming from my power charger )
the sound disappears few minuts later , and when i play with high velocity , sound comes again . the sound is VERY annoying
what do you suggest ? i have my x50 since a lots of years but it works perfectly .
Hmm- Is the sound actually coming from inside the x-50? It could be coming from a transformer or ceramic capacitor on the circuit board that is failing. If you are adventurous you could try to identify and replace the cap. If its a transformer it could be impossible to find an equivalent replacement, but you could try coating it with silicone rubber to deaden the sound. Or just wait until you get older like me and you won't be able to hear it at all!
@@LearnLizard problem resolved ! problem was not coming from my x50 but from the power charge ! i noticed my power charge did the SAME horrible high sound that inside my x50 ( yes yes , in my x50 AND into my power charge . ) i just bought a new power charge .
@@pykemanosbeats Oh good- I'm glad you figured it out-- and really glad you didn't have to go in and start soldering on the circuit board!!
@@pykemanosbeats I’m sorry to barge in on your conversation. I have the same problem. There is a high pitch buzzing sound around the power button. What did you do to resolve your problem. Thank you very much.
@@ralph3109 it's your lucky day dude. i just bought another charger. Problem instantly solved.
you're the man
My yamaha dj x power connection has just died think the cable has been rubbing of the back of the stand need to get it fixed
You may be able to fix it by just soldering a new plug on the power supply (without having to open up the keyboard and replace the jack) I hope so!
Thank you for the video. I lost my power totally on my X50. Do you have any recommendation for the gauge of wire?
Hi- I typically use AWG22 gauge wire for this type of project and it always works fine. Good luck fixing the X50 (love that synth)
Guess I have to try this on my worn out battery charger turnigy accucel 6, it started heating up around the barrel jack, its like 10 years old. Thank you
My power jack on my Orange Micro terror broke and it's super janky now :( can't fix it myself
Me too, but I don’t know where a radio shack is near me and I want to know if I can do something else to keep it in place.
Muito boa a solução, seria formidável se houvesse uma solução de display paralelo para substituir o display do korg x50, já que o original é difícil de encontrar e se encontra é caro
Sim, eu concordo, já vi telas usadas por cerca de US $ 50-60, mas isso é muito dinheiro. Obrigado por assistir.
🙏* * * HELP please! * * * 🙏
Hi, Steve from LearnLizard,
once again at first many thanks for your helpful hints solving this known problem on the KORG X50!
I also had this damage like many other users - my instrument is 16 years old and I used it often. According to your advice I tested it directly by soldering a 12 V wire from the power pack to the two contact points on the circuit board (correct polarity, 12 V measured). But after powering on, the X50 does not come into normal working mode. Only the display is backlit, but no text is shown. This happened already before - after wiggling the plug was no longer successful in supplying the device with power correctly. Apparently the small adapter board has got any defect additionally? Unfortunately you can hardly get this module anywhere as a replacement since the production has already been discontinued. What to do now? 🤔
Can it be perhaps that a predetermined counter is built in to refuse the function after 16 years and xxxx hours of operation when reached? The X50 has never been broken and has always been treated with care. I really want to keep using it because I am really satisfied with this synthesizer.
I'm very grateful for every further tip or hint! Thanks in advance! 🙏🙏🙏
Hi- I'm sorry to hear about those problems. Yes it sounds like there might be some additional component failure on the circuit board. I don't think there is any built in counter but I do know that delicate components can fail after years and years of use. Your best bet might be to find a used one on eBay. Sometimes I have seen them go for very small amounts of money. Good luck!
@@LearnLizard Thank you so much for your answer, Steve!
This little power board is indeed heavy to find, also at eBay quasi not. So I try to substitue it in a selfmade way.
I have measured the 3 voltages that should be 11,5 V / 5 V / 3,3 V. Especially the 3,3 V Output doesn't fit anymore. There are merely 1 V. That declares, why the display is backlighted but nothing to read inside the screen, also no buttons are lightened up red after Power On (the ICs apparently don't get their operating voltage of 3,3 V for digital empowerment).
So I ordered a Miniboard (DC-DC-Converter) which steps down from 12 V to 3,3 V (adjustable). I hope this will help since the other voltages are correctly present. I will report about my efforts and success, so the other readers here can benefit from it. The delivery of this little Converter board will last up to 3 weeks though. I bought it in a 5-pack (special offer), so I will have sparing parts in any similar cases ... A price of under 10 € is fine for that 5 pieces together, isn't it?
O man i am really bad in handywork.. wat type OF BATTERIES fOR A KEYBOARD
Hi- I'm not sure exactly what you are asking. A keyboard like this takes more power than an average battery pack can supply-- so you need an AC adapter plugged into a wall socket. Yes a project like this can be a bit tricky especially if you have never soldered!
@@LearnLizard could there be a possibility it be the wires of the adapater is broken or lose
@@terryfauzifan9459 Yes- and that's a more likely chance of what is wrong. You can usually find replacement adapters on eBay for pretty cheap. (best option if you are not good at soldering wires back together)
@@LearnLizard are all keyboard adapters the same or do i need to state the model of my keyboard ..tq so much sir for the help
really cool video! :)
Thanks for that! (appreciate you watching)
Parabens ideia genial deveria o fabricante adotar desta forma que você fez evitaria o estrago na placa main e facilitaria a troca do Jack Power muito bom🇧🇷👍👍👍👍
Obrigado. Eu gostaria que a Korg (e outros fabricantes) fizessem conectores de alimentação dessa forma. Os conectores montados na superfície podem causar muitos problemas. Obrigado por assistir!
why would't you just re-solder the broken piece back together?
The old jack had 3 tiny pins that that were soldered directly to the circuit board - Its nearly impossible to solder a tiny pin back together. You could buy an identical jack and re solder it to the same circuit board but I was afraid of the same thing happening again so decided to bypass the jack entirely.
@@LearnLizard exactly problem will be back again and again so when a shop ask 80 euros it s like a waste of money .... make this changement is useful when you are skilled for, i m not and i dont want destroy my micro X well i can use it this way but not fun at all to play like that ....
I’m tryna get my korg trinity workin again and this is exactly wht the problem is power jack is disconnected from a red wire
Thank you!
Thank you for watching!
Is mine gone forever? Because my dc power jack broke off
You can buy a new jack and replace the broken one if you follow the steps in this video. The X-50 is a great keyboard and worth the time and effort to fix!
Great tutorial, planning to do this fix/upgrade to my Casio keyboard. Can you describe how to use the multimeter to identify the correct polarity of each node on the board?
Sure- most multimeters have a "+" and a "-" lead (usually red and black) If you set the meter to "DC Volts" in a 0-25V range, you will know the positive and negative points on the board when the meter shows a positive 9V reading when the leads are touching those points. Hope that makes sense and good luck!
Why not just replace the pcb mount female plug like-for-like? Or at least remove it entirely and mount in the existing location. Possibly would have been able to repair it as it was anyway (but can’t say without seeing how it was broken)
A couple reasons- it's not a "standard" jack size and I wasn't sure how to find an exact replacement. Also, I was worried about damaging the circuit board with too much heat (I'm not the most skillful solderer) And finally, all the stress is on the mounts of the jack and I didn't want them to break again. It was much easier (for me) to just solder leads to the board and use a standard jack (that fit my standard power adapter) I admit it was a little awkward to have to drill a whole new hole in the case, but it's still working great after a lot of use.
@@LearnLizard Replacing the old one, it would probably break it again, like you I added a 5.5mm 2.1 jack which will last a lot longer. plus easier to find an adaptor!
Wouldn't it be much better and easier to use a replacement jack socket instead of drilling a hole in the keyboard?
If you could find the correct replacement jack you would have to desolder the old one from the PC board and then solder the new one on. Not only is that a very delicate job (with the risk of damaging the adjoining components with too much heat) but I was afraid that the exact same problem would happen again with the jack cracking the solder joint. I know its crazy drilling the hole but it definitely worked!
@@LearnLizard
"To each his own...." but its not that complicated if you know what you are doing. Thats all I'm saying. 🙃
@@maxximusoralo2516 Its a nice solution, you can add a more standard power jack
Nice job. Pwede patulong paano e fix Yung voice laging nag iiba Hindi mag stayble
Hi- Hindi ako sigurado kung ano ang mali sa paglalarawang iyon. Ang keyboard ba ay nakakakuha ng patuloy na kapangyarihan?
I am from India.Sir
❤ legal
👍
how i wish to have same for my korg MICROX :/ who has same issue ... but it s too complicated for me, i asked to change this plastic shit to a repair shop they ask me 80euros only to change the plastic part to have same issu in the future : NO WAY... this idea of metal is really better ... but i cant do it .... i m not skilled for that. good job !!! my new MODWAVE is also ship plastic but KORG did something better and this kind of problem wont come normally .... but i regreat my KORG microX i can use like that but if i move machine can turn off, sad..... +1 people who put -14 cant probably do it ... lol like me but for me it s a big +1
You probably could do this although I admit its a little bit scary. If you just solder a wired jack to the circuit board (or find a friend that knows how to solder) you could just have the wires and free jack come out through the back hole. (no need to drill and mount a panel jack) Good luck- The Micro-X is a great synth and worth rescuing (I used to have 2 lol)
Where is the shack of radios he speaks of?!
Ahh, there once was a sacred site where you could instantly buy a jack or connector. Now only smoldering ruins...
Nice!
Thanks for watching!
@@LearnLizard You're welcome.
The problem with my keyboard is described at the beginning of this video ruclips.net/video/-yV3fGjADR8/видео.html - your method appears sufficient - between that video where he installed the power supply inside and yours where you more simply installed a new power jack - are these the only two possible methods?
I think the very best way might be to buy a female connector exactly like the one that is damaged and replacing it with the new one. (thats what a professional musical repair shop would probably do) The tricky thing about that is not only finding the exact part, but when removing the old one you risk damaging the circuit board either form heat or stress. Plus I didn't want to have the same problem again in the future!
So that’s a newer korg. Wow.
Korg released the X-50 in 2007. (hope I didn't say "new" in the video lol)
Why wouldn’t you just swap out the same dc input jack right back on the board? Then you wouldn’t have to drill. I came here cuz i need to swap that exact dc input jack on my wah pedal, but ive never swapped components on an actual pc board.So i guess i hafta keep searching RUclips.Any tips to share? Again, im curious why you chose to make a custom jack instead of just replacing the dc input jack?
The reason I added a whole new jack is because the way Korg designed this is flawed (IMHO) All the stress of the the plug in the jack is put on the tiny connector pins that are soldered to the PC board. I wanted to make sure I had a solution that wouldn't break again in the future. Appreciate you watching!
@@LearnLizard Makes sense! I actually found how to fix it myself. There is a small metal plate inside the input hole itself.Its supposed to be bent in a “U” shape in order to make contact with the power adapters plug sleeve as it enters in. apparently mine flattened out over time, not making contact with the sleeve.I took a safety pin, and with a pair of needle nose pliers, i bent the pin in the shape of a hook. Then inserted “hook” into metal plate and bent back into a “U” shape.
Im guessing this wasn’t your problem, but im happy we both fixed our problem.thanks for the reply.
Power jack purchased me sir
Hope it works!
Sir please make a video tone editing. I request you sir
a great keyboard.. a crappy power jack ... ruined my everything
I still love my x-50 and use it for certain sounds. But definitely a poor design job with the way the jack is secured. I hope you can fix yours...
That's not fixing it but replacing it.
Well at least it fixed the problem!
Thank you!
You're welcome!