Learned a lot on this one. I try to keep all my electronics going as long as possible no matter how old they are and this video helps a ton. Thanks for the tutorial.
maybe bending the tabs on the solder of the board is a good mechanical fixing plus it grabs the copper wire too; then just apply glue on the sides of jack (on top of board)
@@alerey4363 That's not a good idea I think, because there is a possibility that a tab can break and you do not want to compromise yourself additionally. Besides that you are creating a new problem for eventually future service on this component.
@@rolandberendonck3900 the risk of breaking is high if the tab was previously bent; but if it was soldered straight it can resist bending without issue; as for the problem for future service... an old jack glued with hot gun wont resist further service
No it won't break, in fact it will be much stronger. The metal pins would have to be bent back and forth many times to be weakened. @@rolandberendonck3900
Thanks for the video brings back great memories 10 minutes into the video is the most satisfying part of the whole video where Jack is placed back on the circuitboard. And wrapping the wires around and soldering the wire to the newly scraped and tinned area next to me Jack.. I always like doing that myself. especially when my hands are nice and steady and feeling very confident in what I'm doing well knowing that Jack well work again.. I still like to do it at the age of 69 and do these repairs It brings me peace and satisfaction. But life is Galaxy 2 haywired and frustrating to have my hand steady to do these intricate soldering jobs. I first learned how to do all these soldering jobs where my dad got me my first soldering iron back in 1966..I don't remember at that time I wasn't doing any repairs at the age of 15.. so are used to find tossed out broken transistor phonographs and radios took him apart and monkey around with them with the soldering iron.. man I grabbed a lots of broken things maybe finish fix about 20% of them. I'm still curious and I pick up modern gadgets from the street and love to take him apart to see how small they gotten. it brings me peace trying to steady my soldering iron hand. I'm a lefty ...it's fun taking things apart and trying to figure out what these new components on the circuit boards are all about So thanks again for great video demonstration. Take care of yourself and loved ones and during this pandemic. It's a crazy 2020 isn't it?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I was about to panic because I cooked 2 pads trying to take a short cut and not preparing my surface properly. Your video saved my tv. Thanks again. Stan
thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge in hopes that it might be useful to someone else. any negative comments you see please do not be discouraged from posting for useful things like this. it did help me.
Thanks. This video was a total life saver. I bought a sequencer/synthesizer a couple years ago. It was battle damaged(dropped) and nonfunctional. I got it going (a couple of wires resoldered fine). It worked for awhile then boom, no sound. The Audio out was pretty much separated from the board, total tracer Spaghetti. Watched this video, fixed. Good advice.
Simplicity is something most people can understand , well done it's people like you who encourage a baby boomer like me to give things a go , sadly some people cannot see that and just want to blow their own trumpet with technology , God bless you
Millennial here, first time looking into soldering to fix a beloved mp3 player. Please never feel age as a barrier to entry, I'm proud of us both for trying!
I just fixed the circuit board on a portable kerosene heater with this this video and saved a $200 heater!! I could not figure out why the fan would not kick on after I soldered the connector back on to the board. Thank you very much!!!!!!!
I used to do this on keyboards from schools. They got a lot of abuse with keys broken and Jack sockets damaged. Works and keeps them going for a while longer. I also used to repair the non functioning contact pads under the keys, you know the ones, a bit like the rubbery buttons in a remote control, with a circle of tin foil. Worked a treat!
Thanks man! I’m a *complete* rookie at soldering as I literally did my first ever soldering job yesterday .. I practiced with a cheap led kit first. Then attempted to modernize my 23 year old gameboy color with a modern backlit screen and other components.. but I accidentally burned off a tiny little pad on the board and my gameboy isn’t working now,, but I’ll try to fix it with these tips
Thanks man. Well explained i was trying to repair my usb sound card and somehow the copper pads were missing after removing the pins to the usb. I tried to solder to the hole but it just doesnt stick to the pad. After seeing your video i managed to try it and it works. A big thanks to you
I think when ppl r asking where u r , its not your location, we r asking where have u been? haven't heard from u in a while. I've owned Richard's TV & Elec. inc. for 35 yrs and u r one of the better techs I have seen in all those yrs ! I only follow u and dave at Grants pass.the others r usually kitchen table fixers !!!!
I like the way you wrap the wire around the post, adding some mechanical strength. Is there a reason you don't spread flux paste onto the workpiece before? On other channels they seem to douche the entire solder area with flux....
Great video Señor!!!! I was ablet to repair a pcb for an arcade controller. Not for the audio but repairing the traces like you just did. YOU INSPIRED ME!!!! I was close to throw away the pcb and order some other buttons that I did not have.
Great video, great explanation. By the way thank you for also mentioning which wire you were using... so many times people gloss over it like "oh just grab some wire," and it's not super helpful if you're learning (which, presumably their target audience would be). I'm doing some DIY projects in an effort to start learning some of the things I never bothered with. One project is loosely following a hobby paint shaker build, and this guy listed every part he used... except the wire. And apparently asking about wiring is like asking for a proprietary secret. Asked on Amazon, "what gauge should I use for this dc motor?" and got 2 or 3 cagey responses but 0 answers. One particularly snarky response concluded with "get something that can handle an amp," with a heavy DUH implied. Thanks... (If that answer was sufficient, would I be asking such a basic question? I gather I don't need a large wire, but what's too small or too big? What's so hard about saying "I used __ AWG?" Yes, I wasn't interested in learning anything about wiring until now. _Yes, I am very stupid and you are very smart big brain boy_ .) I didn't realize wiring was a cornerstone that everybody is expected to be fluent with like reading or writing. FFS! Ahem, anyway. Side note: if your glue gun takes 10 or 15 minutes to heat up, that could be one argument for updating it :P. I have a $5.99 Stanley Mini and a $15-20 Surebonder dual temp and they're both ready to go in about a minute or two. The Surebonder also has an interchangeable nozzle so you can use a fine detail or flat nozzle, which might be nice for this type of work.
it is very nice and interesting approach in repair job . waiting such new interesting repairs for people like me, who are eager to learn always new technical tricks in electronics . thank you in advance .
That is a very nice job. Im in the process of fixing my OBD II scanner. It has some bad trace and a cap. The old AA batteries leaked and the corrosion ran up the negative wire to the board. Hopefully I can save it. And this video was a insight to me on how i can do it. Thanks for the 4 year old video.
Thanks for a great video. You are a good teacher it's a skill believe me. I'm new to solder but was able to fix a auto instrument cluster circuit board with lifted pad by using a wire to bridge the pin to another solder pad. Saved me $300 thx bro!
Re title how to fix missing traces help a lot more people! Wonderful demonstration and guide. Might even try a clear coat pen or similar enamel applicator to insulate afterwards but that may be overkill
I have the exact same problem with the power plug on a portable scanner. Had to replace it. Discovered that ninny here scorched the life out of it. I also have to replace a transistor that was surface mounted. 25 years ago was when I ruined the board but I think after watching this I may be able to rescue it and learn how to solder better. Too old and shaky in spots but we'll give it one more try. Thanks for the tips. :-)
Norcal715 at our shop we run into plasma malcharge problems. red, blue, green flashing video "noise" on some repairs. Most seem to improve as the panel warms up, but some of the older LGs after all the adjustments we are only getting them to about 85 % picture quality. We make sure the voltages are correct and have tried replacing caps in the sus boards. some that come in we replace the IPMs and for some this does it, some times not. Do you think as some suggest that the panel is the problem ?
Excellent video! Some good tips for people learning to solder. I almost contemplated why I was watching the whole thing since I'm experienced with soldering but it was strangely enjoyable. I fun craft/skill if things go without too much trouble.
i would NOT want to use a glue gun for that kind of work - epoxy MAYBE if you do it really well ... but hot glue wont endure a jack that people are whacking on daily ....
If it works, it works. It's obvious with that large surface coverage, it will work, and all good techs do work which is reversible, when possible, for future service, unlike epoxy.
I love your videos norcal715 I have two questions. One is acetone always better than 100% isopropyl alcohol?? I see that you use an electric hot iron. Is that iron dangerous for very small integrated circuit parts because of the magnetic field that it generates when it produces heat? Thanks!!!!
Thanks for the demonstration. I promptly broke a component RCA jack while testing a AV switcher I found. Looking at it I think it was destined to happen from a factory error, the jack was never flush with the PCB so all the load of plugging and unplugging was carried by the solder alone. Anyhow all fixed now.
I bought a refurbished ASUS GS3S gaming laptop 1 1/2 yrs ago and had to repaired 2x's after... Now I know why it was refurbished... I replaced the $5 ac/dc jack that wasn't holding up about every 6 months instead of purchasing a $200.00 motherboard because it was pulling away from the board and wasn't able to charge battery or use AC adapter. Now I repaired ac/dc jack again with your method which should reinforce it well..And Hopefully a permanent fix.. Thanks for the Helpful Video
impressive video i enjoyed that your very clear and easy to understand. im hoping you could help me...i have a semi similar situation a connector snapped off the board with the plug end still stuck inside however theres no pads on the board to re solder to...i have a replacement connector with the proper pins if the old one is no goood but is there anyway to re surface the connection pads it was solderd to originally?? its only a 2 pin connector plug on the main board of a dji phantom 2. hope to hear what you have to say... thank you for your time.
Thank you, this was most informative. I inadvertently pooched a contact pad on a T.V. control board because I held my solder iron too long and lifted it myself. This let me work around my mistake, and hopeful make it all work nicely.
Nice job! And how about some varnish spray, to make the scraped copper even more protected from corrosion? Of course it already has the old varnish already, but as an extra layer of protection.
Nice hack job, but it works well and is supported. Granted it's not a real repair rather a quick fix, because the pad area wasn't replaced, but it will last a long time and is very cost effective! Thanks for sharing. Thumbs up. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
hello. I got a nice set of spindles of 22awg hookup wire in various colors. Would that have worked the same for this repair? What tip do you have for determining what thickness wires to use for various work? Many thanks
Two suggestions (very late in the game, but just came across the video). 1) I would have drilled a hole either side and cable tied it down to the PCB as well as the glue. some force must have been used to break it and I don't think hot glue will hold it long term against a force like that. 2) Hot glue has some issues. I think it goes conductive with age, maybe use an epoxy glue instead. You can increase the holding strength of hot glue by a small trick. The glue here is used to bond flat surfaces, but hot glue is actually really strong with tear strength rather than bond strength. If the glue is allowed to flow through a hole in the surface, its holds way stronger. Drill a small hole either side and when you were glueing the sides of the jack, allow the glue to go through the PCB in the holes. It will form a mechanical plug either side and will hold with way more strength.
nicely done, its a nice and easy method if you don`t have the equipment to repair the tracks on a pcb... i really appreciate such Mc Gyver like solution
Hi, I had the same problems with some PCB's and I used stained glass Copper foil with acceptable results, the hard part is cutting the foil to the missing shape in the PCB but with patience and a good augmenting equipment you can do it.
Nice. I wish you would have talked a little bit about the thought process on what gets soldered where, why you crimp in some cases and run the wire to the other side in others. Have a busted TRS jack on an expensive studio monitor I need to fix but still not confident. Getting close though! Thanks for the knowledge
nice repair but you didnt have to scrap the protective layer. you could just use jumpers and solder it to the nearest pin thats connected to same trace
karims118 that is exactly what I did. I'm just getting my feet wet with soldering. I wasn't sure if it would work but ive desolderd a few jumpers. I fixed an X Rocker power imput with a jumper.
Good video thank you but what if your jack doesn't go through the board like your video but the legs are surface mounted and the leg ripped off with the solder pads? I scraped around the one pad looking for copper but didn't see much the other three pads are still there so it's just the one I have to figure out it's a AV input Jack on small pcb , 3.5mm like headphone as well.
I've read that you should use 50/50 acetone and alcohol for this cleaning work at 5:39, not rinsing that acetone off he plastic jack will almost certainly cause problems with the jack.
The problem with jack connections is that once the ear plug is in the socket, it adds leverage to the jack which is then easily broken loose from the solder pads due to mishandling of the electronic device. As you know, some board designs allows for a metal housing on the jack to have its own through the board solder pads to secure the jack, but in the case of the device in the video, no reinforcement was made...an obvious cost-cutting measure. Nice video.
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else wants to uncover pc board repair try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (do a google search ) ? Ive heard some amazing things about it and my colleague got great success with it.
Always very informative videos - nice work. Soldering skills about 6/10. Milspec. no - too much solder and tighter mechanical connections (use small needle nose). Easy on the glue gun - as said, a risk of glue contamination in the connector. Instead of acetone, try carbontet. So few pre-tin, great lesson/point. Oldgoat68 Emery pen or glass fiber pen will do less damage to the copper foil (trace).
Years ago I too used this method. But, more recently, I salvage all of the good parts, as well as traces and pads from quality boards with heavy foil traces. Then, I use those traces, or I fashion new trace from heavy copper foil, to repair damaged traces and pads. First, I solder the repair to the existing foil very cleanly, using as little solder as possible. Then, I use an epoxy film phase change adhesive, from Fastel Adhesives (no affiliation), to attach the repair to the board. If you hold the repair in place, with the film epoxy under it, on the board by covering it with Kapton/polyimide high temperature tape, you can use the heat of a soldering iron to activate the epoxy, gluing in place. It literally takes seconds to activate and cure the epoxy. After removing the Kapton, I paint on a solder mask where needed to match the original color as closely as possible. Then, tin the repair and use solder wick to mop-up any extra solder. More often than not, the repair cannot even be spotted, unless you know it's there. This type of repair is extremely reliable and easily serviceable if future work is required. And, it makes customers happy! I hope this helps someone else. Cheers!
Sounds expensive in terms of materials, time, and must make a lot of pollution in your space. Do most customers even care what their PCB looks like when they never see it?
@@@EternityofNight The epoxy film adhesive lasts forever and is quick and easy to work with. You use very small amounts on a per repair basis. It's supplied in sheet form the size of a piece of paper. So, it's easy to store. I don't know if the customer cares. But, I do. Longevity and future serviceability of a repair is important to me. If a future repair is made by someone else, I want them to say "Wow! Who repaired this before?". Instead of "Wow! Who butchered this before?" Cheers!
I am in a similar situation but the jack itself is broken. The pcb is fine. I am trying to determine where to source a new identical (or equivalent) jack. Its on a Cambridge soundworks subwoofer from the early 2000s.
I may have the entire board if you are still interested I know its been 11 months but if you are like me I save my electronics till I can repair them or one pops up on eBay. Ill have to look for it. If you still need it send me a picture at jkasza101@gmail.com so I can match it up. If I have it Ill let it go cheap. Thanks
Hey great videos like. I want some information. I just bought a av receiver model yamaha rx-v475 from ebay . the receiver use 120v as power. in my country my voltage is 220-240v.. can u give me what power converter (in terms of watt amps for me to buy for this receiver.
what would cause the solder to ball up instead of melting on the contact part to solder? Can you recomend a good soldering gun for circuit boards. thanks
A couple things would cause the solder to just ball up instead of melting to the work. The most common two are 1) Oxidization on the part, or its dirty, and 2) The part is not getting hot enough for the solder to wet to it. For the first one, you want to clean the work with alcohol first, and then apply flux and then the solder to remove the oxidation while its melting to the work. For the second issue, you need to use either a higher temperature, or a larger tip for your soldering iron. Try a larger tip before trying more heat.
if you are trying to use lead free solder, it needs more heat than regular lead tin. you may be trying to resolder a lead free soldered part. the surface your soldering to is not clean or coated with something, scratch in to the surface, like in the video, to roughen it up. your iron isn't hot enough.
Very good video I enjoyed it a lot. Learn something very valuable, great work! I see you haven't posted a video in a long time hopefully you're still at it!
8:50 “I’m doing this one handed here” there’s a soldering iron, solder, and a wire all 3 moving at the same time perfectly. Are you feet holding them?? Hahaha
I've got one for ya, how do you completely remove a solder bridge when there is copper showing between the two little contacts that you are soldering? It's on a cb radio, I believe it's a resistor I can't remember for sure, it causes a thin layer of solder to bridge the two contacts together, I've soldered and unsoldered this many times trying to clean it all off but can't get it, the two contacts are in the same line the radio works fine regardless of this but I'm sure there could be long term effects
If the trace goes between the two contacts then they are connected anyway. Let it bridge. You should look at radios that were "hard wired" before PCBs.
I kind of have a similar issue with a dc power jack I replaced, my first rookie attempt, two pins are making a bridge/short, I think because The board is damaged , thinking of trying something like this. Not very confident yet, trying to research some more about this.
Hello, interesting video, especially in my case im in the process of trying to repair some broken pad and trace on a board. Id like to know to details, which soldering iron do you use in this video? Which temperature do you set on your iron? Thx
I have a capacitor to resolver on a wine fridge board but board is damaged where they connect to board, can I use reg copper wire? If so is gauge really important? Or does it have to be this hookup wire? Thanks
Hi norcal! I'm new at soldering and thought I would replace a USB type b jack that lost its center plastic peice (common problem with a Traktor s4 dj controller) instead of sending it in for a fortune. Unfortunately I've pulled the pad on pin 3 (green) and it looks like the backside trace of pin 4 (black grnd) has peeled up slightly but not broken off. Do you think your technique could be applicable to my situation? Could I maybe hardwire the USB cable straight to the board and forgo the USB jack altogether? I'm hoping I don't have to salvage a new pcb because of my rookie mistake. Thanks for your help and the vids! -Chris
What sort of temperature were you using that soldering iron at? The solder wicking was pretty much instant; I think I may be using my iron at too low a temperature!
This is an awesome video. Very good idea. I really need to know what the type of jack that you used. I am in need of the exact jack but cannot find one.
This is pretty much what I've done in the past, except that I use an x-acto knife to clear the soldermask off of the board, my screwdrivers not being all that sharp... :-) I noticed the brand name on the board. In the case of a great many repairs of this sort that I've done, it was also a rather well-known Japanese manufacturer but more often than not it was the DC power input jack on the rear of the unit. Sometimes pads would be damaged, sometimes not. In the case where they were not, simply scraping off a lot of the soldermask around the pins and putting big blobs of solder on there seemed to give a much more robust connection to the jack. I never could figure out why they put the soldermask on there as close to the pins as they did-- probably underestimating the potential for abuse on the part of the American (and other) consumer, compared to those in the Japanese culture?
You are a GODSEND!@!! THANKS SO MUCH! I HAVE BEEN TRYING TOP UNDERSTAND THE SAME ISSUE! I had no clue as to why 2 would be the same? I thought I was seeing something wrong!~ THIS MADE IT CLEAR AS TO WHAT I HAD TO DO!! THANDS SO MUCH!
I love the way how you use all 3 hands to pre-tin the hookup wire.
Learned a lot on this one. I try to keep all my electronics going as long as possible no matter how old they are and this video helps a ton. Thanks for the tutorial.
I am in electronics for 40 years and this is the better way to fix this problem.
Excellent job, well done.
Cheers.
maybe bending the tabs on the solder of the board is a good mechanical fixing plus it grabs the copper wire too; then just apply glue on the sides of jack (on top of board)
@@alerey4363 That's not a good idea I think, because there is a possibility that a tab can break and you do not want to compromise yourself additionally. Besides that you are creating a new problem for eventually future service on this component.
@@rolandberendonck3900 the risk of breaking is high if the tab was previously bent; but if it was soldered straight it can resist bending without issue; as for the problem for future service... an old jack glued with hot gun wont resist further service
No it won't break, in fact it will be much stronger. The metal pins would have to be bent back and forth many times to be weakened. @@rolandberendonck3900
@@alerey4363 You are correct, bending the pins will anchor the jack to the PCB just fine.
Thanks for the video brings back great memories 10 minutes into the video is the most satisfying part of the whole video where Jack is placed back on the circuitboard. And wrapping the wires around and soldering the wire to the newly scraped and tinned area next to me Jack.. I always like doing that myself. especially when my hands are nice and steady and feeling very confident in what I'm doing well knowing that Jack well work again.. I still like to do it at the age of 69 and do these repairs It brings me peace and satisfaction. But life is Galaxy 2 haywired and frustrating to have my hand steady to do these intricate soldering jobs. I first learned how to do all these soldering jobs where my dad got me my first soldering iron back in 1966..I don't remember at that time I wasn't doing any repairs at the age of 15.. so are used to find tossed out broken transistor phonographs and radios took him apart and monkey around with them with the soldering iron.. man I grabbed a lots of broken things maybe finish fix about 20% of them. I'm still curious and I pick up modern gadgets from the street and love to take him apart to see how small they gotten. it brings me peace trying to steady my soldering iron hand. I'm a lefty ...it's fun taking things apart and trying to figure out what these new components on the circuit boards are all about So thanks again for great video demonstration. Take care of yourself and loved ones and during this pandemic. It's a crazy 2020 isn't it?
i know man its so satisfaying it also got me into some memories with my old man i wish time wouldnt go that fast
This is awesome,i couldn't do something like this to save my life but i enjoy watching people do it.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I was about to panic because I cooked 2 pads trying to take a short cut and not preparing my surface properly. Your video saved my tv. Thanks again. Stan
thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge in hopes that it might be useful to someone else. any negative comments you see please do not be discouraged from posting for useful things like this. it did help me.
Dylan Taylor see
I also use a screwdriver but then follow with a pencil eraser to clean the copper pad...good video, keep them coming.
Thanks. This video was a total life saver. I bought a sequencer/synthesizer a couple years ago. It was battle damaged(dropped) and nonfunctional. I got it going (a couple of wires resoldered fine). It worked for awhile then boom, no sound. The Audio out was pretty much separated from the board, total tracer Spaghetti. Watched this video, fixed. Good advice.
Simplicity is something most people can understand , well done it's people like you who encourage a baby boomer like me to give things a go , sadly some people cannot see that and just want to blow their own trumpet with technology , God bless you
Millennial here, first time looking into soldering to fix a beloved mp3 player. Please never feel age as a barrier to entry, I'm proud of us both for trying!
I just fixed the circuit board on a portable kerosene heater with this this video and saved a $200 heater!! I could not figure out why the fan would not kick on after I soldered the connector back on to the board. Thank you very much!!!!!!!
I used to do this on keyboards from schools. They got a lot of abuse with keys broken and Jack sockets damaged. Works and keeps them going for a while longer. I also used to repair the non functioning contact pads under the keys, you know the ones, a bit like the rubbery buttons in a remote control, with a circle of tin foil. Worked a treat!
Before tinning the scraped-off copper spots I would have added a dab from a flux pen.
Just my take...
Great vids!
More!!!
Agree
Thanks man! I’m a *complete* rookie at soldering as I literally did my first ever soldering job yesterday .. I practiced with a cheap led kit first. Then attempted to modernize my 23 year old gameboy color with a modern backlit screen and other components.. but I accidentally burned off a tiny little pad on the board and my gameboy isn’t working now,, but I’ll try to fix it with these tips
Thanks man. Well explained i was trying to repair my usb sound card and somehow the copper pads were missing after removing the pins to the usb. I tried to solder to the hole but it just doesnt stick to the pad. After seeing your video i managed to try it and it works. A big thanks to you
I think when ppl r asking where u r , its not your location, we r asking where have u been? haven't heard from u in a while. I've owned Richard's TV & Elec. inc. for 35 yrs and u r one of the better techs I have seen in all those yrs ! I only follow u and dave at Grants pass.the others r usually kitchen table fixers !!!!
I like the way you wrap the wire around the post, adding some mechanical strength. Is there a reason you don't spread flux paste onto the workpiece before? On other channels they seem to douche the entire solder area with flux....
Same thing I was thinking and his still turned out nice.
Great video Señor!!!! I was ablet to repair a pcb for an arcade controller. Not for the audio but repairing the traces like you just did. YOU INSPIRED ME!!!! I was close to throw away the pcb and order some other buttons that I did not have.
Great video, great explanation. By the way thank you for also mentioning which wire you were using... so many times people gloss over it like "oh just grab some wire," and it's not super helpful if you're learning (which, presumably their target audience would be).
I'm doing some DIY projects in an effort to start learning some of the things I never bothered with. One project is loosely following a hobby paint shaker build, and this guy listed every part he used... except the wire. And apparently asking about wiring is like asking for a proprietary secret. Asked on Amazon, "what gauge should I use for this dc motor?" and got 2 or 3 cagey responses but 0 answers. One particularly snarky response concluded with "get something that can handle an amp," with a heavy DUH implied.
Thanks... (If that answer was sufficient, would I be asking such a basic question? I gather I don't need a large wire, but what's too small or too big? What's so hard about saying "I used __ AWG?" Yes, I wasn't interested in learning anything about wiring until now. _Yes, I am very stupid and you are very smart big brain boy_ .) I didn't realize wiring was a cornerstone that everybody is expected to be fluent with like reading or writing. FFS!
Ahem, anyway. Side note: if your glue gun takes 10 or 15 minutes to heat up, that could be one argument for updating it :P. I have a $5.99 Stanley Mini and a $15-20 Surebonder dual temp and they're both ready to go in about a minute or two. The Surebonder also has an interchangeable nozzle so you can use a fine detail or flat nozzle, which might be nice for this type of work.
it is very nice and interesting approach in repair job . waiting such new interesting repairs for people like me, who are eager to learn always new technical tricks in electronics . thank you in advance .
Nice technique; I've done this myself several times to repair broken traces and the like.
Please show us how to replace a composite jack with a component jack into an old CRT TV.
Very informative video. When things seem lost forever just open your mind and figure it out. Going to use this procedure one day. Thanks!
That is a very nice job. Im in the process of fixing my OBD II scanner. It has some bad trace and a cap. The old AA batteries leaked and the corrosion ran up the negative wire to the board. Hopefully I can save it. And this video was a insight to me on how i can do it. Thanks for the 4 year old video.
Thanks for a great video. You are a good teacher it's a skill believe me. I'm new to solder but was able to fix a auto instrument cluster circuit board with lifted pad by using a wire to bridge the pin to another solder pad. Saved me $300 thx bro!
Can you use normal soldering wire to fix anything?Since I only have the normal wire.
I ordered some solid core wire on amazon. 26 gauge. But I bet braided copper would be OK.
Dave Champion thanks
Re title how to fix missing traces help a lot more people! Wonderful demonstration and guide. Might even try a clear coat pen or similar enamel applicator to insulate afterwards but that may be overkill
I have the exact same problem with the power plug on a portable scanner. Had to replace it. Discovered that ninny here scorched the life out of it. I also have to replace a transistor that was surface mounted. 25 years ago was when I ruined the board but I think after watching this I may be able to rescue it and learn how to solder better. Too old and shaky in spots but we'll give it one more try. Thanks for the tips. :-)
Nice! Haven't seen a quality pad repair on RUclips yet, this was a good one.
awesome video my friend, learning lots regarding soldering and desoldering.
Everything about this video is A grade.Thanks a lot.
Norcal715 at our shop we run into plasma malcharge problems. red, blue, green flashing video "noise" on some repairs. Most seem to improve as the panel warms up, but some of the older LGs after all the adjustments we are only getting them to about 85 % picture quality. We make sure the voltages are correct and have tried replacing caps in the sus boards. some that come in we replace the IPMs and for some this does it, some times not. Do you think as some suggest that the panel is the problem ?
This help solve my capacitor issue, copper was completely lifted and I used this technique to to fix the issue. Nice one!
Thank you so much for showing me the trick of scraping the sides. Fixed my led light. i ripped off the copper by mistake :(
Thanks, i also add hot glue to the solder joints as well to avoid them to get loose and short other components.
Nice method! Hooray for keeping electronics out of the trash longer with clever ideas to fix 'em!
thank you. i'm new at soldering and your tips is very helpful for me.
Excellent video! Some good tips for people learning to solder. I almost contemplated why I was watching the whole thing since I'm experienced with soldering but it was strangely enjoyable. I fun craft/skill if things go without too much trouble.
same here, strangely I couldn't stop watching. good video.
i would NOT want to use a glue gun for that kind of work - epoxy MAYBE if you do it really well ... but hot glue wont endure a jack that people are whacking on daily ....
Not to mention the heat produced by the appliance itself...
I mostly use hot glue because it's easier to rework or remove for future repairs.
If it works, it works. It's obvious with that large surface coverage, it will work, and all good techs do work which is reversible, when possible, for future service, unlike epoxy.
antigen4 I WOULD despite the fact that you would NOT.
"Not to mention the heat produced by the appliance itself..." um .... heat like from a soldering gun? 😂 These things can take the heat.
I love your videos norcal715
I have two questions. One is acetone always better than 100% isopropyl alcohol??
I see that you use an electric hot iron. Is that iron dangerous for very small integrated circuit parts because of the magnetic field that it generates when it produces heat?
Thanks!!!!
Thanks for the demonstration. I promptly broke a component RCA jack while testing a AV switcher I found. Looking at it I think it was destined to happen from a factory error, the jack was never flush with the PCB so all the load of plugging and unplugging was carried by the solder alone. Anyhow all fixed now.
I bought a refurbished ASUS GS3S gaming laptop 1 1/2 yrs ago and had to repaired 2x's after... Now I know why it was refurbished...
I replaced the $5 ac/dc jack that wasn't holding up about every 6 months instead of purchasing a $200.00 motherboard because it was pulling away from the board and wasn't able to charge battery or use AC adapter.
Now I repaired ac/dc jack again with your method which should reinforce it well..And Hopefully a permanent fix..
Thanks for the Helpful Video
impressive video i enjoyed that your very clear and easy to understand. im hoping you could help me...i have a semi similar situation a connector snapped off the board with the plug end still stuck inside however theres no pads on the board to re solder to...i have a replacement connector with the proper pins if the old one is no goood but is there anyway to re surface the connection pads it was solderd to originally?? its only a 2 pin connector plug on the main board of a dji phantom 2. hope to hear what you have to say... thank you for your time.
Thank you, this was most informative. I inadvertently pooched a contact pad on a T.V. control board because I held my solder iron too long and lifted it myself. This let me work around my mistake, and hopeful make it all work nicely.
Nice job!
And how about some varnish spray, to make the scraped copper even more protected from corrosion? Of course it already has the old varnish already, but as an extra layer of protection.
Nice hack job, but it works well and is supported. Granted it's not a real repair rather a quick fix, because the pad area wasn't replaced, but it will last a long time and is very cost effective! Thanks for sharing. Thumbs up. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
hello. I got a nice set of spindles of 22awg hookup wire in various colors. Would that have worked the same for this repair? What tip do you have for determining what thickness wires to use for various work? Many thanks
Two suggestions (very late in the game, but just came across the video).
1) I would have drilled a hole either side and cable tied it down to the PCB as well as the glue. some force must have been used to break it and I don't think hot glue will hold it long term against a force like that.
2) Hot glue has some issues. I think it goes conductive with age, maybe use an epoxy glue instead. You can increase the holding strength of hot glue by a small trick. The glue here is used to bond flat surfaces, but hot glue is actually really strong with tear strength rather than bond strength. If the glue is allowed to flow through a hole in the surface, its holds way stronger. Drill a small hole either side and when you were glueing the sides of the jack, allow the glue to go through the PCB in the holes. It will form a mechanical plug either side and will hold with way more strength.
Oh yeah, seeing all that hot glue in there gave me the creeps. No, hot glue is NOT good for reinforcement.
nicely done, its a nice and easy method if you don`t have the equipment to repair the tracks on a pcb... i really appreciate such Mc Gyver like solution
Hi, I had the same problems with some PCB's and I used stained glass Copper foil with acceptable results, the hard part is cutting the foil to the missing shape in the PCB but with patience and a good augmenting equipment you can do it.
Nice. I wish you would have talked a little bit about the thought process on what gets soldered where, why you crimp in some cases and run the wire to the other side in others. Have a busted TRS jack on an expensive studio monitor I need to fix but still not confident. Getting close though! Thanks for the knowledge
nice repair but you didnt have to scrap the protective layer. you could just use jumpers and solder it to the nearest pin thats connected to same trace
karims118 that is exactly what I did. I'm just getting my feet wet with soldering. I wasn't sure if it would work but ive desolderd a few jumpers. I fixed an X Rocker power imput with a jumper.
A good electrical connection is a good MECHANICAL connection. That jumper wire is gonna snap off one day. Maybe not in *our* lifetime but ONE DAY!! 😂
That "protective layer" is simply soldermask, only needed during the manufacturing process.
Good video thank you but what if your jack doesn't go through the board like your video but the legs are surface mounted and the leg ripped off with the solder pads? I scraped around the one pad looking for copper but didn't see much the other three pads are still there so it's just the one I have to figure out it's a AV input Jack on small pcb , 3.5mm like headphone as well.
I've read that you should use 50/50 acetone and alcohol for this cleaning work at 5:39, not rinsing that acetone off he plastic jack will almost certainly cause problems with the jack.
what if the board is multi layered will it still work?
And he does it again!!!!!!!! GOOD WORK STEVE!!!!
In your previous how did you no it was that little reg?
The problem with jack connections is that once the ear plug is in the socket, it adds leverage to the jack which is then easily broken loose from the solder pads due to mishandling of the electronic device. As you know, some board designs allows for a metal housing on the jack to have its own through the board solder pads to secure the jack, but in the case of the device in the video, no reinforcement was made...an obvious cost-cutting measure. Nice video.
I used to use epoxy to secure the body of the jack.
Good taste in videos.. like the monitor re conversion you just did also..
Good for you but hot glue is undo-able and it works for him..
@@droceretik He's a troll. Ignore him.
Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else wants to uncover
pc board repair
try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (do a google search ) ? Ive heard some amazing things about it and my colleague got great success with it.
Great tutorial video, how to repair properly one time first time! Thank you.
Another great repair share!
One suggestion: flux.
Anytime I clear away coating before soldering to ground plane or such, flux!
The best tech here always learning something new from norcal715 videos
Hi WmJ Robinson.
Is carbontet easily available in places like RadioShack?
Can this be done for a bulb on an car instrument cluster?
Always very informative videos - nice work. Soldering skills about 6/10. Milspec. no - too much solder and tighter mechanical connections (use small needle nose). Easy on the glue gun - as said, a risk of glue contamination in the connector. Instead of acetone, try carbontet. So few pre-tin, great lesson/point.
Oldgoat68
Emery pen or glass fiber pen will do less damage to the copper foil (trace).
You are an artist! Thank you for this video.
Years ago I too used this method. But, more recently, I salvage all of the good parts, as well as traces and pads from quality boards with heavy foil traces. Then, I use those traces, or I fashion new trace from heavy copper foil, to repair damaged traces and pads. First, I solder the repair to the existing foil very cleanly, using as little solder as possible. Then, I use an epoxy film phase change adhesive, from Fastel Adhesives (no affiliation), to attach the repair to the board. If you hold the repair in place, with the film epoxy under it, on the board by covering it with Kapton/polyimide high temperature tape, you can use the heat of a soldering iron to activate the epoxy, gluing in place. It literally takes seconds to activate and cure the epoxy. After removing the Kapton, I paint on a solder mask where needed to match the original color as closely as possible. Then, tin the repair and use solder wick to mop-up any extra solder. More often than not, the repair cannot even be spotted, unless you know it's there. This type of repair is extremely reliable and easily serviceable if future work is required. And, it makes customers happy! I hope this helps someone else. Cheers!
Sounds expensive in terms of materials, time, and must make a lot of pollution in your space. Do most customers even care what their PCB looks like when they never see it?
@@@EternityofNight The epoxy film adhesive lasts forever and is quick and easy to work with. You use very small amounts on a per repair basis. It's supplied in sheet form the size of a piece of paper. So, it's easy to store. I don't know if the customer cares. But, I do. Longevity and future serviceability of a repair is important to me. If a future repair is made by someone else, I want them to say "Wow! Who repaired this before?". Instead of "Wow! Who butchered this before?" Cheers!
I am in a similar situation but the jack itself is broken. The pcb is fine. I am trying to determine where to source a new identical (or equivalent) jack. Its on a Cambridge soundworks subwoofer from the early 2000s.
I may have the entire board if you are still interested I know its been 11 months but if you are like me I save my electronics till I can repair them or one pops up on eBay. Ill have to look for it. If you still need it send me a picture at jkasza101@gmail.com so I can match it up. If I have it Ill let it go cheap. Thanks
I have the same situation but it’s on a controller circuit board
Make sure to keep up the CAPS. YOUR EGO HAS a need to be HEARD!
Hey great videos like. I want some information. I just bought a av receiver model yamaha rx-v475 from ebay . the receiver use 120v as power. in my country my voltage is 220-240v.. can u give me what power converter (in terms of watt amps for me to buy for this receiver.
do you hear a relay click. of not replace D6301 on the small ps board near the standby transformer
what would cause the solder to ball up instead of melting on the contact part to solder? Can you recomend a good soldering gun for circuit boards.
thanks
A couple things would cause the solder to just ball up instead of melting to the work. The most common two are 1) Oxidization on the part, or its dirty, and 2) The part is not getting hot enough for the solder to wet to it. For the first one, you want to clean the work with alcohol first, and then apply flux and then the solder to remove the oxidation while its melting to the work. For the second issue, you need to use either a higher temperature, or a larger tip for your soldering iron. Try a larger tip before trying more heat.
if you are trying to use lead free solder, it needs more heat than regular lead tin.
you may be trying to resolder a lead free soldered part.
the surface your soldering to is not clean or coated with something, scratch in to the surface, like in the video, to roughen it up.
your iron isn't hot enough.
Very good video I enjoyed it a lot. Learn something very valuable, great work! I see you haven't posted a video in a long time hopefully you're still at it!
Excellent repair.nicely explained. Thank you
Would this technique work the same for lifted pads where a capacitor would mount?
Wow very good tutorial!!!
hard to find a video like this
This is excelent.👍👍👍👍
Macro resolution is great! What make and model camera did you use to film this?
8:50 “I’m doing this one handed here” there’s a soldering iron, solder, and a wire all 3 moving at the same time perfectly. Are you feet holding them?? Hahaha
I've got one for ya, how do you completely remove a solder bridge when there is copper showing between the two little contacts that you are soldering? It's on a cb radio, I believe it's a resistor I can't remember for sure, it causes a thin layer of solder to bridge the two contacts together, I've soldered and unsoldered this many times trying to clean it all off but can't get it, the two contacts are in the same line the radio works fine regardless of this but I'm sure there could be long term effects
If the trace goes between the two contacts then they are connected anyway. Let it bridge. You should look at radios that were "hard wired" before PCBs.
I kind of have a similar issue with a dc power jack I replaced, my first rookie attempt, two pins are making a bridge/short, I think because The board is damaged , thinking of trying something like this. Not very confident yet, trying to research some more about this.
What grande solder wick is that?? I use gootwick but it's not nice and stick like that stuff
Chemwick by chemtronics
I enjoy watching this keep up the good work.
I am in Northern California, Chico to be exact. Have a great day!
Fantastic tutorial. Very well done and many thanks for sharing.
Excellent presentation! Very helpful.
Beautiful work! Cheers!
Hello, interesting video, especially in my case im in the process of trying to repair some broken pad and trace on a board.
Id like to know to details, which soldering iron do you use in this video? Which temperature do you set on your iron? Thx
I have a capacitor to resolver on a wine fridge board but board is damaged where they connect to board, can I use reg copper wire? If so is gauge really important? Or does it have to be this hookup wire? Thanks
Yes copper wire is just fine to make jumpers.
Hi norcal! I'm new at soldering and thought I would replace a USB type b jack that lost its center plastic peice (common problem with a Traktor s4 dj controller) instead of sending it in for a fortune.
Unfortunately I've pulled the pad on pin 3 (green) and it looks like the backside trace of pin 4 (black grnd) has peeled up slightly but not broken off.
Do you think your technique could be applicable to my situation? Could I maybe hardwire the USB cable straight to the board and forgo the USB jack altogether? I'm hoping I don't have to salvage a new pcb because of my rookie mistake.
Thanks for your help and the vids!
-Chris
What sort of temperature were you using that soldering iron at? The solder wicking was pretty much instant; I think I may be using my iron at too low a temperature!
Hi NorCal715, nice tutorial. I'm having one question: Is there a reason why you use acetone instead of flux for cleaning the copper?
Its always been my go to and it's cheap and effective
@@norcal715 Alright, thank's for the tip!
I assume you can do the same with replacing capacitors to broken pads?
Yes!
how does one add a battery coonector, not previously there, to a circuit board. to aid in swap out of motors on a drone
What a cool repair! Nice work.
do you know that part # or where i can buy one at?
This is an awesome video. Very good idea. I really need to know what the type of jack that you used. I am in need of the exact jack but cannot find one.
Thank you, exactly what I was looking for
This is pretty much what I've done in the past, except that I use an x-acto knife to clear the soldermask off of the board, my screwdrivers not being all that sharp... :-)
I noticed the brand name on the board. In the case of a great many repairs of this sort that I've done, it was also a rather well-known Japanese manufacturer but more often than not it was the DC power input jack on the rear of the unit. Sometimes pads would be damaged, sometimes not. In the case where they were not, simply scraping off a lot of the soldermask around the pins and putting big blobs of solder on there seemed to give a much more robust connection to the jack. I never could figure out why they put the soldermask on there as close to the pins as they did-- probably underestimating the potential for abuse on the part of the American (and other) consumer, compared to those in the Japanese culture?
can you solder a heating element? i got a road pro 12v crock pot connection between wiring and element broke off?
The solder will melt. The reasons it failed was heat. Fire hazard, just toss it in the trash.
Do you recommend using solder with lead or without?
Defiantly with lead, it has a much lower melting point than lead free.
Do you have solutions also for Qfn 40 Pads damaged???
You are a GODSEND!@!! THANKS SO MUCH! I HAVE BEEN TRYING TOP UNDERSTAND THE SAME ISSUE! I had no clue as to why 2 would be the same? I thought I was seeing something wrong!~ THIS MADE IT CLEAR AS TO WHAT I HAD TO DO!! THANDS SO MUCH!