Installing Vinyl Windows in Existing Aluminum Siding
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- Опубликовано: 19 окт 2024
- Every project is different and not all windows are created equal, but if you have a similar set up to me then I hope this video is helpful in giving you an idea on how to finish setting the window.
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/ danielwead
/ danielwead
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I replaced every window in on double wide. 1976, so it had the same style siding. I had to remodel the R/Os a bit. The new vinyl windows were slightly bigger. Had to drop the sill a few inches. I also trimmed the exterior. Using a straight edge, and metal skil saw blade. I cut back the exact amount of siding, had a clean hole to work with. Flashed it and caulked it just as you did. Trimmed it, caulked the edges. Works great.
Bad advice is better than no advice. Sometimes you gotta just know when to call in a professional that KNOWS what they are doing when you are in way over your head.
I have this exact situation- replacing windows on a house with aluminum siding. I've already replaced a few windows on the front side, which has vertical siding on the top halve, and horizontal siding on the bottom. I removed enough of the vertical siding, which was about four feet tall, to reveal the window opening. This was so I could use new construction windows with flanges. Maybe not the best choice, but if worked for me.
I agree with some of the others who think the caulking will eventually fail. The damage may not be noticeable for years, and by then it could be significant. I had an experience with leaking around a chimney and skylight. Both caused enough damage that I had to replace some rafters, plywood, and roofing. Roof leaks are fairly easy to spot up in the attic, but siding leaks could be hidden for quite a while.
As a contractor from Seattle, I highly suggest not to do this. I just went to a couples house last week that has to replace all their windows cause they had a window company that did this. The windows are only 5 years old and multiple of them are leaking a lot. The only thing keeping water out in this application is caulking. Cut the metal back and install the window with the flange. Install j-metal around the edges of the metal siding and install trim around the window to butt up to the j-metal. Make sure to cut the paper and tuck the j-metal under the paper on top of the window.
I’m no expert, but I would worry about is the siding expanding and contracting with temperature changes. As it does, the seal will break, and water will run down behind the casing. Worst part is, it will probably leak where you can’t see it, resulting in lots of mold and rot!
yes. silicon does not absorb the expansion and contraction of metal well. it will breakdown and cause insidious water issues
You're right, you're not an expert!
Don’t listen to these people hating... everyone does stuff different. I install for two big window companies. Only thing we would done different is cut the siding back equally around. Would’ve foam insulated the gap between and jam. Then bent aluminum trim to cap the window.
Can you suggest a video or a picture to show the moulding bend? I want to try and do what you suggested.
You bought the wrong window. They make replacement windows with no flange and pre drilled holes for side mounting. But besides that, not to bad for someone who isn't a professional. You got it done.
I wish I could have seen the removal method for the old window. 😪
I think the right way as its alot of work but taking the metal siding down from the top to below the window opening and install it then add your j channel then put your siding back up
This is the way. Cut the siding to make easy for the nail fin. Dude is going to have leaky windows.
What a terrible, sloppy insulation job. After 2 yrs, how many times have you been called back? There is a right way and wrong way to install windows. This was the wrong way.
I started screaming when you cut the nail fins off, "Nooooo!". This would be the best practice: Cut the siding back and fasten the fins to the sheathing. And why a 24" x 36" window in a 24" x 36" opening? It should be 1/4" smaller using your method, 1/2" smaller if using the fins. Relying on caulk and foam is not as good
I think anytime you have to depend on caulk to get leak free is going to fail. The siding needs to come off, proper channel and tape installed, then siding goes back.
You should have cut the siding with a cutoff wheel far enough so you could fasten the window with the nailing flange per manufacturers directions with caulking under flange.
Then seal the flange with tape after fastening, and add a trim board....and do not forget the drip edge, and caulk.
I am no pro....but the directions with the window should have been a start.
None of it is easy with the aluminum siding still on....you have to work it, and possible pop nails.
Ifi has been replacing all the other windows in the house that would have been ideal but had I done that for this application there would have been two windows with a big trim and all the others with just the j channel molding
Sorry to say but you have a new construction window, you needed a replacement window without the flange which makes for an easier, better, and nicer job. There are excellent RUclips videos showing the proper way of installing all types of windows. Check it out
Most companies do not make them without the flange.
@@grantmarsh2087 Wrong! Just to name a few, Curtained Teed, Alside, Simonton, Sliverline windows come with or without a flange.
Nope, still right. LOL
Caulk is like duct tape LOL
There's a purpose for the scew flange. Trim the siding and add a molding or just trim
Trim the aluminum around the edge. Install window using flange. Tape it. Install J channel. Install molding. Caulk. Not sure why he didn't do it like that.
Agree
Question, as I am considering to do what you commented: if you did cut back the siding and use the nailing flange, doesn't it have to be a 'j-channel moulding' ? Or how does it stay in place other than caulk? Thanks.
@@i-changeus A bead of silicone caulk around the wall surface, under the nailing flange, then the window gets nailed in-through the flange, then tar-taped (window taped) all around the flange, (remember to overlap starting on the bottom) then either nail up the j-channel and wiggle the aluminum into it, or cut enough of the aluminum away to nail up brick-moulding, then j-channel. Brick molding gives you space to nail the flange, then cover up the cut away aluminum area. (So it fills up the space you cut away.) You may have to pull the aluminum away a little to nail the j-channel to the wall, then wiggle the aluminum into the channel. Try and think like gravity and water. you want to double, triple, quadruple all your waterproofing. and make sure water can't "get behind" anything and cause damage. Anywhere there's surfaces touching (like j-channel touching window frame, etc.) Should have a bead of silicone outdoor caulk ran down them.
A lot of times you'll unfortunately have to kind of figure it out as you go along. So make sure you have plenty of sunshine, time and patience on your side.
All the best, good luck with your project.
@@revdrshad Thank you so much for your thorough reply! I somehow missed it, and thus the delay. I really appreciate it! But if done correctly the J channel should allow the water to drip and pass by the window. Agreed, thinking about how water flows is critical!
Great idea! I was actually reading an installation guide for one window today, and it said that nailing flange can be cut for replacement installation. How the installed windows has been holding? No leaks/other issues?
So far so good!
The damage caused by this hack install will be evident a few years later when all the sheathing is rotten and there is water intrusion below window. HACK!!!
@@stevenfoust3782 I would love to know what he should have done, I have to replace windows with aluminum siding.
@@stevenfoust3782 I agree this will need J channel around entire window In prevention of water damage in the future. Calling this a hack doesn’t help people understand the correct installation. This man took the time in sharing to help others. If you enjoy name calling have the guts to explain with your own video. Or STHU! It only shows your inabilities to help others in a craft you obvious know but selfishly won’t share. Name calling goes to character, something you obviously need work on!
@@DB-cx6cbI am not a contractor But I am planning to replace my windows.We got a contractor using this method with the J-Channel. But I still worry about if that may cause any leakings in the long run. We got another company that will cut a little of the siding to add one or two layers of sealing, but with a higher price for sure. I really don't have any ideas now.
yea i would like to know how pros do it, and how this would be different. i like your work!
L
I dont like the way there is a 1'' caulk joint on the sides of the window but hey I didn't invent this product. I have to replace 7 more windows and doors on my 1976 Mobile home and Im not looking forward to it because of the aluminum siding.
What do you do to the windowsill now? Construction foam at the bottom? How do you cover that up?
You have to come up with a framing or casing solution. For this particular window I was tiling on the inside so I used 3 or 4 trim pieces of drywall to build up the base and then I glued my tiles to that so they met the vinyl window
Sorry to diss you but caulking is never the answer. Neither is foam. Code agrees with me on this. Overlap always! If it won't pass if/when a local inspector is watching every move you made, it wasn't done correctly. If it does, that is the true sign of something well (but not not necessarily perfectly) done. I say that because code is MINIMUM standards!!! "Optimal" and "Minimum" always changes due to current information....that's why codes change every 4 years. This is why hurricane, tornado and earthquake codes have change a huge amount over the decades.
Which pieces need to overlap? I have aluminum siding and need to replace exterior trim. It's aluminum and want to use pvc boards. Not sure what to cut back and how to seal everything
Bro that looks horrible
What would you recommend doing differently?
Spirit of a Handyman hiring a professional? Lol
@@Hahahha55 Not the point of this channel though! lol I want to empower people to DIY
@@SpiritofaHandyman Cut the siding. duh! Nail the flange. Tape the flange. Install J channel. Install molding around the edge. Done.
@@SpiritofaHandyman Empower people to DIY correctly. No point causing more issues. Save a buck DIY and spend 2 bucks later fixing the damage. I applaud your attempt and challenge to empower people to do things though.
Like the tune
Can you remove the window shims after the foam is dry?
No, when the foam dries it solidifies everything in there really well. You could cut them out if you had to but I wouldn't
That’s the worst way to install a window. You’ll never get it watertight I need to cut the siding back.
DEFINITELY NOT HOW TO DO IT!!!You should not be allowed to work on houses! Caulk will definitely fail and then you can go back and rebuild the wall after it’s rotted. You should have a window without j channel, left the flange, trimmed back the siding, installed proper flashing, install pvc trim boards.
Wouldn't you have used caulking to seal the pvc trim boards where they meet the j channel?
Aluminum sides do not block any sounds if you live near traffic!! Uff
just proves anybody can make a video but it doesnt mean he knows what the H#() he is doing
Jesus Christ thats hack work at its finest. Wow.
i dont know caulking only last so long..
Really bad...
Do you have a resource that shows a better method? I would love to see it!
Wouldn't hire anybody that does this.
another hack job, you don't know what you are doing. Leave it to the pro's
Welcome to hackerville.......this install won't last a year........in a wet climate.......
smh
Ok..well never watch you lol...just put it in and caulk it lol...I mean omg dude. You need to drip cap the top. Cut the siding back and put azek or wood then cap it. I mean my goodness. Just caulk it in lol.
Smh🤦
That was a horrible install man. Noone listen to this guy please