Pella- How to install vinyl replacement window Pella 150
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- What's up guys/gals, in this video I am replacing old wood windows with new vinyl replacement windows. I am specifically using Pella series 150 replacement windows for this project.
Honestly, replacing old wood windows with new vinyl replacement windows is very simple as long as you follow some simple steps. The most important part about this project is to ensure the replacement window is level and proper flashing and insulation is in place to protect from water intrusion.
First, measure the opening for the replacement window. I show you how to measure for your replacement window in this video. Next, remove the old window and clean the opening. Always dry fit the replacement window before applying flashing and silicon. You will find most of the time you will need to remove the casing trim from one or two sides of the window frame in order to make room for shims...etc.
Once you are happy with the dry fit, proceed with applying flashing tape and silicone caulking. Place the replacement window in the opening, pre-drill before screwing in the window and finish with foam insulation to fill any gaps between the vinyl replacement window and the framing.
The Pella series 150 replacement window is a good choice to upgrade from wood windows to vinyl replacement windows at an affordable price.
Disclaimer: these videos are for information purposes only. They are not meant to induce action; therefore, you agree and understand that you make your own decisions and absorb all risks associated with said decisions/actions. You further agree to hold True Grit Development, LLC, it’s members and anyone affiliated with True Grit Development, LLC harmless from any damage or loss.
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I am doing my first pella 150 replacement window in my house. Their online directions are bad. Your video has been a tremendous help, very well done and a huge help to me thanks so much matty
Good luck buddy! Thanks for the positive feedback. It’s pretty easy once you get the hang of it. 👊🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopmentcan you get pella replacement with for exiting vinyl new construction windows on vinyl siding?
This pocket replacement is almost exactly what I'm dealing with. You're giving a new homeowner confidence to do this myself and save a ton of money. Cheers!
Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching, pls like and share 👊🏼
Very good instructions. I do construction, but have never replaced windows. Thank you for this video. Am more confident doing it myself and saving tons of $.
Thank you sir. I appreciate the feedback. Good luck with your project.
Putting back that old shit trim ruined it for me. New window with old trim is the worst.
New trim would be nice. It’s hard when you have to stick to a budget though. I believe this was a 19 window project. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Excellent tutorial, but you need to (1) caulk the outside where the existing blind stop meets the replacement window frame and (2) cut a 1/4” weep hole in each end of the sill adapter (skirt), 1” from each end. I also prefer to caulk the sill adapter to the existing sill to minimize wind, bug, and rain intrusion. You’ve got a back dam of caulk between the frame and the stool, but keeping stuff out is generally better than relying entirely on caulk near the interior.
Also, the sill adapter won’t always be a perfect fit in either height or width. It has two score lines on the back to trim it to height, and I find that a large pair of end nippers is perfect for cutting the ends to length. Installing it from the outside after trimming to fit is a little more difficult, but a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer and a plastic tapping block works wonders.
Thanks for the feedback 👊🏼
I've never heard of weep hole in the sill adapter, how does that work? Especially if you are trying to secure it from wind, rain and "bugs".
I was on the fence about replacing my windows myself but after watching this video I am very confident that I will replace my windows myself. Thank you, this video is exactly what I needed. You hit all the details that is required to replace a window.
Glad it helped. Honestly, once you get going it’s pretty straight forward. Thanks for watching and supporting. Good luck with your project 👊🏼
Totally missed what I was saying I miscommunicated in some way I don't like that it's butted behind the trim it won't seal to the trim silicone 6 months after 6 weeks after rather I could take and grab it like a rubber band and pull it out it just doesn't stick adhesion is poor I would pull the trim boards off for the extra effort and wrap the flashing down across the face of the wood and then put the trim board back on that's what I meant I don't like that where you just put it up against the baseboard and seal it I would if I was forced to do it that way I would use the water block product instead of silicone I did a threshold in an A-frame house and 20 plus years never have water from the driveway get underneath before we place the window we had that problem every time it rained hard the water block works awesome and never dries it stays gooey like bubble gum
Same. This video makes me feel like my wife and I will able to replace our windows. Saving this video for reference.
i replace 3 windows didnt know about the skirt ,,what does it do? i left them out ..nice video
They go at the bottom of the window. They are meant to cover the gap b/n bottom of window and sill. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
I have my own window installing company, and this is probably the best most detailed video for installing windows. The only question I have is why you didn’t take the sashes out. I feel it makes it a lot easier to take the sashes out and install the frame then put the sashes back in.
Thank you! Appreciate the vote of confidence. I do it both ways and I do agree removing the sashes makes it much lighter. I thought it was quicker to leave the sashes on, but didn’t really save that much time. I take the sashes out most of the time.
@@TrueGritDevelopment thank you for the response man you did a very detailed and thorough video and I’m sure you helped out many people with this video. I have a random question. I recently measured someone’s house and I always try to get inside and outside measurements and the windows were 3 inches different on the inside then they were the outside. Have you ever ever ran across something like this?
Mmm…if this a replacement job, I would only measure inside and go with that. On the outside you maybe catching some of the trim or whatever. I measure inside the sashes as I show in the video, so whether you’re inside or outside the measurement should match.
@@TrueGritDevelopment good idea. Thank you. I mostly do apartments and keep busy but I do houses too, though not nearly as often and this is the first I’ve come across it. Every windows different but these are the strangest I’ve come across.
I have pella 250 replacement windows would this be the same process. I paid a “contractor” to do it and it’s a complete hack job with gaps and play everywhere because he did not shim and won’t fix his work states he never heard of using shims on a window
Yes, similar installation. Contractors are infamous with not using shims. They usually want to go in/out as quickly as possible. It’s important to have the window level and square. Good luck.
Hey man thanks for the info this is awesome to see in live time. Question, would you recommend doing exterior window trim before or after installing the new windows? Currently the exterior trim is a thin vinyl strip around the windows. Would like to improve the look with some thicker PVC trim.
Glad you found it helpful. I would definitely do it after for two reasons: a. Once the window is installed you will get a better visual as to what trim will look best and b. If there are gaps after installation, choosing a wider trim may have better coverage.
@@TrueGritDevelopment thank you man! Do you have any recommendations on where a homeowner can buy windows at a good price? A lot of places require install but I think I could manage this.
I could see light from the outside coming through your window frame when you were putting in the spray foam. This means you have a place where water can enter around your window.
You also don't any yo use normal spray foam because it can push your window out of square (I have seen people use this stuff to raise a sidewalk!) and cause all kinds of problems. You want to use the stuff designed for around windows and doors.
Once you’re finished inside, you want to finish outside. I silicone caulked all around the windows. In a cpl of those windows I swapped the exterior trim for Azek, so this may have been one of them. You are correct with the foam stuff, it can expand like crazy. If you notice I only put just enough, gd point though. Thanks
The windows I am replacing are Anderson windows. I gather that replacement windows use your windows existing outside sill. Well my outside sill are so thin you could poke your finger through it, that’s mostly why I am replacing them. So want can be done?
Hi Dave, so have you determined the cause of the damaged sills are the windows? Is it because they were poorly installed? I ask b/c if it’s the install, u can re-use your window after you repair the framing. Anyway, to answer your question, I would replace the sill if it’s damaged. You will need an oscillating tool, Pry bar and a hammer. Replace it with similar size piece as the original. I’ve had jobs where I replaced the framing 2x4 underneath the sill, flashed, replaced the window then finished with exterior trim, so it really depends what you have there. Hope this answers your question.
Great video. I flip houses myself. Curious to why you replaced the window in the first place ?
Thank you. They were older wooden windows, some didn’t operate well and others were not lined up right and figured from a resale standpoint point the house will be worth more.
There is a much easier way to install that as a replacement window. Granted much of what you must work with is whatever the prior installer/builder put in. Mighty brave banging on the finished wood with a hammer head. Use a block of wood or rubber mallet next time. But you did an excellent job otherwise.
Thanks man. I just installed 9 windows for another flip property and I took the sashes out this time. Much lighter to work this way, is this what you meant by another way?
@@TrueGritDevelopment also take the outside trim off, but save it for reuse. You may be able to leave the inside trim molding and pull the window out from the outside, slip in the replacement, plumb and level and reinstall the exterior molding. Generally 30 minutes tops.
You could do that for first floor windows maybe, but not 2nd or 3rd flrs! Don’t know about you, but I don’t like working on ladders. Also, some windows may be located in a cove or inset without interior trim, so you won’t have a stop. Check out my other install video for United window and door also from Lowe’s.
Gotcha.
Could they be installed from the outside as I want to replace the brick molding?
Anything is possible but not ideal IMO especially if you have 2nd or 3rd flr windows. I would replace the brick moulding after installing the windows.
Very helpful video. Doesn’t look too bad. I’d treat each window as a little project and 27 windows later I’d have it down.
It will go faster than you think. You can do 4 at a time, just start early. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
April 24, 2023 Im replacing two windows today and you built a great confidence in me to do it myself thank you so much!!!
Glad to hear it. Start early and take your time. Once you have the first under your belt, it’s smooth sailing. Good luck 👊🏼
You did a pretty good job till you decided to hang the old trim , then you would have been fired . You showed your true workmanship ability ,that was piss poor at best. Next
Thanks. Just a preference to reuse the old trim. Save more $$. Has nothing to do with installing the actual window. Piss poor workmanship at best is a little harsh on your part, but all good. Thanks for your feedback.
I just had these same windows installed in my garage. Your video was great, however the one thing I was hoping to see was how to best reinstall the screens. The full length screens that the windows come with don't seem to go back in easily. Any tips for how best to reinstall the screens?
Thank you. You should have the little black inserts on the sides? If you do, the screen should fit snug, you may have to get one side in first and pull on the other side.
Thank you so much for this video! My 19-pound Jack Russell saw a squirrel and jumped against the 107 year old window and shattered it. You've saved me nearly $900!! One quick question - where can I find a sill skirt? I've been looking all over and nothing looks like the one you used. Thanks!
Oh man, hope your little one is ok. The skirt/trim comes with the window, did yours not come with one?
2 questions:
So you don't need to screw the top or the bottom?
And the large piece in the beginning of the video that you set aside with the small trim, that doesn't get used ??
Nope, no need to screw top
Or bottom. The trim piece can be used over the top of the window, but you often will have no space for it. It’s meant to seal the gap between the top of the window and the framing; however, in my experience that gap is usually around 1/8” and can be caulked. I have used it in the past and do intend on making a video because many ppl had the same question. Hope this answers your question.
Well done on this video! Do you have a video on how to remove exterior flange nailed single hung vinyl windows? Will this be a different process?
Thank you! Unfortunately I don’t have a video for that, but outside of cutting out the flange, the process is the same. What you need to do is remove exterior trim or J channel to expose the edge of the flange, then cut out the flange using a utility knife. You will have to make several passes using sharp blades. Once that’s out of the way, you’re home free. Good luck 👊🏼
Seems like a big void under the window. Shouldn't I try to get foam behind that skirt under window?
The bottom of the window should be flush (assuming the sill is level) with the sill if you look from inside the house. The sill should pitch away from the house, it is that gap you are referring too, correct? Do not use foam insulation as that may expand and create pressure on the bottom of the window, which will impact how the window sash operates. Instead, you may use bat insulation. In my case, I only used silicone caulk to seal the bottom of the window. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
Great video, thanks for sharing. I don't have a lot of experience replacing windows, and I'm in a similar situation where I have a really tight fit height wise. Once I attached the skirt, I have almost no room above or below. Other videos have said you must shim the bottom, but you say it wouldn't be necessary if its level. Are you not concerned with spraying foam above and below the window, or is the flashing and caulk good enough there? Thanks!
So shimming the bottom is necessary to level the window. If your window opening is level, no need for a shim. The window is not going anywhere once you have it screwed to your framing. Foam is for insulation purposes, I use it b/n the window and framing to fill in any open gaps for added insulation. You certainly can use it anywhere as long as it doesn’t create pressure that may interfere with the operation of the window. In my case I didn’t have any room at the top to insulate. On some windows I actually was able to put the top trim piece on and that covered any gaps I had. I will be putting out another video specifically addressing the top trim piece that came with the window, many viewers ask about it. I hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
No wonder you have so many views. I was pretty confident in the first place. You made me realize many of the labor-intensive procedures I was going to do aren't necessary. I am going to have much repair to do. I live in an old country schoolhouse built in 1917. It had extra classrooms and plumbing in the early 50s. then was converted to a home in the early 60s, that's when these windows were installed. Anyway, I'm rambling, what I wanted to say is brother you ROCK!!! I'm sure I'll watch a few more times. I have 14 windows to install and massive amounts of rot to repair so the time you saved me is much appreciated.
I am glad you found it helpful, please like and share. Once you get started it’s pretty easy and straight forward. Let me know how your project goes. Good luck.
Thank you. Perfect description of window flashing on a replacement window. Just failed an inspection because of this but every video I've seen was all new construction.
Thanks so much! Appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
I just bought a replacement window with a arched window on top. How do I trim that out?
Very well done on the video and narration/instruction! I’ve heaerd lots of bad things about replacing my 30 year old windows with pocket windows (like you have done here), but I dont want to replace my lap siding. My windows have lasted 30 + years but a couple would have lasted longer had I donr better maintenance and paining more often. The expensive Pella says it will take 4 months before I can get another 50” x ’50” window. I dont think the ones in stock from Lowes and Home depot are a very good quality. What do you think?
Thanks again, for a great well made video!
Thank you for the positive feedback. The best I can say about the series 150 sold at big retailers is that they are developer grade windows, so they will meet energy efficiency requirements, operate as intended and will last a while. The difference with other higher quality windows is the framing (some come with thicker frames with added support), the little parts used to operate the window (made of higher grade plastic) and the seal. However, the seal is usually covered under warranty. What makes the biggest difference IMO is the installation job. As long as you install the window square and water proof the framing (I mean the house framing) you will get many yrs out of these windows. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
What is the purpose for using the silicone and if I need to change the window again will it not be harder to take out because of the silicone. Thanks
Adhesion and sealing really. It will ensure the window is air tight. In the future you can switch out the sashes. If you must take out the window, the sealant won’t be a problem. There is too much leverage when you pull the window.
How do you know the bottom of your window is level? Is the bottom of that window not convex?
You mean when you install it? Put a level and shim if necessary. The window itself should be square, but if not I would take it back.
Hey brother, I'm going to be replacing some windows and after watching your videos,I feel confidant I can do it. Thank you for your expertise!
Glad to help. Start with bottom floor and early in the day just in the event you run into complications. Overall it’s a pretty simple job and once you get the first one under your belt, it smooth sailing. Watch my other video on replacing United windows from Lowe’s, in that video I remove the sashes, just so you can see both ways on how to replace the windows. Good luck 👊🏼
The Pella 150 series has a large flat head screw id way on the outside of the fram,:What is it used for?
Watch my United window video I show what that is used for. Basically, on the I side of the frame there the other end of that screw head where you can use a flat head screw to push that head in/out. It’s used to tighten or loosen the window frame against the wall framing. So, if your window sash is too tight, you can loosen the frame and visa versa. It’s much clearer in the video
ruclips.net/video/XKcmduTeR2M/видео.htmlsi=rbWHGe7_2hbe9aIm
How do you get all that exterior window trim to be matching vinyl and not wood. I guess I figured that was part of the window replacement. Don't want to ever paint the outside window trim again.
I feel your pain, but you may not like my answer. The only way is to replace your exterior wood trim with brick molding vinyl trim, which is also not cheap. Another alternative is to have someone cap your wood trim with flashing and that can be less expensive than Vinyl brick molding.
@@TrueGritDevelopment Thanks. Cost is not an issue at this point given how much I am paying for two massive front windows - and that we will be retiring in a few years and want maintenance free on home. I will ask my handyman about the two options you mention. Thank you.
Thank you for the information. That's the replacement window I decided to buy, as they are on the shelf at Lowe's home improvement store. The part that answered my question was that the window came with a piece of trim that connects the bottom of the window to the slope of the sill. I thought I would have to make a wage molding or whatever to accommodate the space under the replacement window. Very informative video. Thanks, I now feel more confident buying six of those windows and doing the installation myself.
Thank you! Once you get one in, you will find it easier and easier. Good luck and thanks for watching 👊🏼
You should always keep your window tight against your exterior stops and plum it in the opening ,,by pulling the bottom in as you did now, you've created and out of parallel surface with the wall to the window which you will now need an extension jamb from 3/4" at the top to a 1/2" at the bottom .
Thanks for the feedback, noted. How do you plumb it in the opening, if say the exterior stops aren’t plumb.
You need to plumb side to side ,the in to out is not as important as long as it has a tight seal against the exterior stops.
Got it.
This is by far the best instruction video in installing replacement windows.
Wish you showed the measurement a little closer to the measuring tape. Nevertheless, thanks for the great video!
Thank you! Which measurement, maybe I can help. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
Excellent video. One suggestion would be to remind viewers to use only "window and door" Great Stuff Foam. I don't think that was mentioned.
Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
there is a U shaped plastic piece that you had left over..what is that for? I installed this same window and was confused as to its purpose..shipping protection maybe. Was kinda wondering if that is used to place over the base when you're using a window air conditioner?
That piece can be used on the top of the window. You can use it if you have a gap between the top of the window and the window frame. It’s a tight fit normally, so often it gets tossed. Next time I install a Pella I’ll make a video and explain. Sub the channel if u want, so u can check it out when I post. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopment oh ok, ya i didnt need to use it..ill sub. thx
Great! Thanks.
This is one of the best videos for replacing windows. With my limits skills i think i can do it. Pella should make you there window replacement spokesman
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful. I hope your project goes smoothly, just give yourself enough time for your first window, it’s not difficult. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Thanks for the video very helpful. Do I have to use the spray foam????? Or can I use some else.
Glad you found it helpful! Some else is all good. The nice thing about foam is it goes into all the nooks and crannies. You can use batt insulation too. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Thanks for the video!. Question, if you caulk the skirt of the window, won't any water that gets expelled through the weep holes get trapped inside ?
When you caulk ensure you’re not blocking any of the holes. Your caulk should go underneath.
@@TrueGritDevelopment Thanks, that is what I did, but I noticed the weep holes are higher in the base of the window. So if water runs down the window into the weep holes and you caulk the bottom of the skirt then there is no where for the water to escape. I'll keep an eye on the weep holes and see if they fill up. If so I'll drill a few small holes in the caulking at the base of the skirt.
Oh ok, I see what you mean now. No need to caulk the skirt.
Well done, very helpful. I am using the Pella windows that come with aluminum skinned sills. No more future sill rot....I hope!
Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
THANK YOU! 🥹 Best video I could find, taking the 2 seconds to show a close up of something really makes the difference for those watching. Awesome
Thank you for the feedback, much appreciated. Good luck with your project 👊🏼
Just installed my 12 windows only 9 more to go. Thanks for the tips...
That’s great! So satisfying when you know you’ve just saved hundreds if not thousands of dollars in installation costs. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Awesome step by step! ThankYou a million Times 👍🏼. Im ready to tackle on this now!
Glad to help. Good luck with your project my friend. Pls share and like the video 👊🏽
Thanks for this life saver video, we had zero instructions. Is outside moulding a requirement for installing these windows? They have no flange.
I am glad you found it helpful. These are replacement windows not full frame replacement windows, so they don’t come with a flange. If you are replacing an existing window, chances are you already have the outside stop trim installed. If for some reason you don’t have it, you must ensure the window is plum then proceed to install the trim, which will serve as a stop trim and to hide unfinished parts of the framing and gaps b/n window and framing. You can finally dress up the job with silicone caulk and additional trim if you like. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
After seeing your video I feel like I can do this- great instructional video
That’s great! Glad you found it helpful. Good luck with your project 👊🏼
Good video. Most out there are using new construction windows... so thanks for making this one.
You bet! Glad u found it helpful. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
Buyer beware!! Pella windows suck go with softlite pros or Slocum much better quality I work with pella windows and doors alot and they are very poorly designed and 9 times out of 10 they fail with the first 10 years
thx so much. Saved me tons of $$$ AND time by finding this video as in my ignorance i was going to rip out all window and trim and put in new construction window.lol
You’re welcome! Glad you found it helpful and save $$. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
First time trying to install a window
Silly question but the replacement windows ive been looming at have two silver screws on each side of the window already screwed in. Is there a purpose for these screws, can i discard them or sre they helping to hold the frame together some how ?
It’s actually a very good question. The best way to explain it is if you look at my other video here:
Lowe’s United Window - How to install vinyl replacement window - United window and door from Lowe's
ruclips.net/video/XKcmduTeR2M/видео.html
It’s somewhere in the middle of the video or towards the end where I explain exactly what the screws are used for. Do not discard of them. They are very important. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopmentAwesome thank you ! ...and thanks for a quick reply
U bet.
Thank you for this video! It was the only video where the opening wasn’t level and plus, and how you fixed it!
I just had four pella 250 installed my lowes and they did an awful job! No flashing, no silicone, no insulation (and it needed it-they just used latex to fill in), left the skirts falling off on the front and no shimming. Very disappointed and will take them out and do it myself.
The only reason I wanted to pay someone was because I wanted to have the exterior tripped aluminum wrapped (or capped). I did find a website that has pre shaped aluminum for windows and doors and I would be able to do it myself.
Thank you again for this very helpful video!
I am glad you found it helpful. You are so right, many contractors will skip the flashing tape and forego insulation to make the job go faster. Good luck with your project. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
What’s the website for the pre shaped aluminum
I ordered mine and it is so much cheaper than paying to have it done.
Hi, what if I have exterior storm windows, once I remove that there will be an expose section previously covered by the frame of the storms. What can I use to cover that?
The storm windows are typically screwed onto the wooden trim, if you’re not capping the wood, you simply fill in the holes with compound, wood filler or caulk and paint them over.
@@TrueGritDevelopment would it look weird if there is a wood portion exposed once I remove the storms and it has aluminum cap around?
The aluminum capping covers the wood. To be clear, the capping is separate from the window. Capping is done by a contractor and they use aluminum to cover all exposed wood. It’s optional, so you can keep the wood just fill and paint.
take that camera off your hat im getting sick
Yea, I am sorry. I forget it’s on my head and move quickly. I am learning to move slower when I am shooting.
Most all replacement windows are new construction windows that the factory cuts the nail flange off. And they charge extra for this. So to save money I always order new construction windows and charge my customer the replacement price. It takes less than 5 minutes to do per window. .
Never thought of it like that, interesting.
Awesome video; best I've seen so far on this. Thank you!
Thank you! Much appreciated 👊🏼
Do you not caulk the top of the window?
You will have a gap there, but you can caulk where the window meets the stop trim.
عاشت ايدك
There is 4” x 32” tray, where does it go
You must be referring to the U-shaped tray. It is designed to go on the top of the window to cover any gaps you may have between the window framing and the window. Most of the time you will not end up using it because it’s too tight to fit it in. You can discarded if the gap is very small and you can silicone caulk. Otherwise you can snap off one of end of the trim, so you get an L shaped trim and try to jam it in. I hope that makes sense.
What a great video! I now feel confident enough to do my own window replacements. This will save me THOUSANDS! Thank you!!!!
Love to hear that. Good luck 👍🏼
Right great work thanks
Thank you 🙏🏼
Is it normal if my existing widow is 4 9/16” deep but replacement window is only 3 1/2” deep?
You would need to get a 4.5 window jamb replacement window not 3.5 unless you are replacing your 4.5 by 3.5. You will then have a deeper recess or inset window and more finish work as in drywall or trim work. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching 👊🏽
Just installed a 150 window today, and your video made it so easy. I had looked at Pella's instructions several times and it was not clear. Thank you!
Glad it helped 👍🏼
Do you have an opinion regarding the choices in pocket windows (i.e., Anderson, Marvin and Pella)? I have an older home and my double hung windows need a traditional wood design. In addition, I need wood framing for the interior of my home since vinyl will not work with our home.
Good question. I’ve only worked with vinyl windows. My in laws just got Marvin put in because they had to keep wood inside the house. They are very happy with their choice. I personally feel as long as the window is installed properly and the window framing is reinforced (to avoid bending), the window should do it’s job. Most windows will come with a warranty, so compare that as well. With that said, all pocket replacement windows install the same way, so you can definitely do it yourself.
Great video, thanks for your knowledge.
Thank you for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Thank you. I am slow so need to watch it multiple times. Thank you for the useful detail. Very important.
Glad it was helpful! Good luck 👊🏼
This was the best video on Pella windows. One thing that I did that might help someone is the trim piece at the bottom was not going on for me, so I used a large channel lock with cardboard over the vinyl and it snapped right on. Thanks!
Great tip! Thank you
A very helpful video. I'll have to replace my windows and the gap where the storm windows were are giving me a headache. However, you showed us the "skirt"(?) and in my case it will fill the storm windows spaces.
Just one question, where I can find this window model but in gray?
Thanks,
-w
Glad you found it helpful. Well, let’s hope they make them in gray. You would have to special order it from Lowe’s. I know Pella makes other colors, but sometimes for specific windows, like the more expensive ones. Let me know if you get it. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopment Thanks for the info. If they get too expensive I'll buy the standard ones instead. :)
You bet. Good luck buddy.
Awesome video very educational my brada 💯🤙🏽😎
Mahaloz 🏝👊🏽
I appreciate the love, Mahaloz ✊🏼
But overall a good install
Thanks!
thank you for sharing your experience that was helpful 😊
Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Did you use the top trim piece that you took off the window when unpackaging? Expansion header maybe. I can't seem to find a good explanation of how to install it?
So that’s a very common question. I did for some where I had a little more room to jam them in. I am going to make another video specifically for that top trim. What I ended up doing is cut out the one return facing the inside and bent it through the top jamb. I know it’s hard to understand. You honestly don’t needed if you’re window is snug. It’s purpose is to close any gaps between the window and the frame where you typically caulk. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching 👊🏽
Great video. In my case, I am looking to replace original vinyl windows with new. The old vinyl windows have a plastic sill similar to what you show on the Pellas. Am I correct in thinking I need to measure from top to whatever wood sits beneath that plastic sill? Not certain I can pry that piece out, maybe just cut some of it away to take measurements??
Thank you! The objective is to get as close a measure to the opening frame of the window. Keep in mind that you will
Often be a little off and that’s ok as long as you are smaller than the frame, the gaps can be shimmed, filled in and capped with trim. You do NOT want to be smaller than the outside trim, meaning your window should still be larger than the outside opening, so the outside trim can keep it in place. Open the bottom sash and measure from the inside near you. Repeat same for top sash OR measure to the very top of the window and add 1/4”. I hope I didn’t confuse you. Some vinyl windows are different than others. If you’re in doubt, you can purchase 2 windows with varying heights and return the one you don’t use. Start the project early, so you’re not stuck without a window. Window sizes are standard, so I am sure you’ll find what you’re looking for. Let me know how you make out. Thanks for watching 👊🏽
How many inches our your scribe molding? I have a very big gap on one side and I don’t know to do? It was my first time installing replacement window.
My scribe was a typical scribe, maybe 1/2”. You can remove the top and bottom casing, cut it back and move the side casing over to cover the gap. The drawback is you may have to refinish and/or paint the wall where you move the casing over. Alternatively, you can get wider casing, but that may look funky. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
The one question I have is about new install vs replacement. Since I want to cap the exterior wood trim. Is it possible to take off the exterior trim/casing and install a new window (with nailing flange), flash/caulk and then reinstall the exterior trim?
Good question. It depends on how wide is your trim and how wide is the flange for the window. I would check the window flange first and then you can decide. To answer your question though, yes you can if you had enough room. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
Great video! Professional Contractor here and I don't think i would change a thing about this video. (But come on bro Chicago Electric, as smart and good as you seem to be it's time to get the Milwaukee) But you stay golden and I'll keep watching your stuff!!!
Appreciate the vote of confidence. You got me cracking up about my tools lol. You know, it’s working so I couldn’t justify the upgrade, but that little motor is so loud and you’re 100% right, time to upgrade. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Amazing, thanks for sharing your experience. Helped me a lot.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching 👊🏼
Wouldn’t you wanna double check the window before demo Lolol
You must measure window before ordering or purchasing windows. I go over measurement early into the video. There are standard window sizes and most of the time you will find them stocked with slight variations of 1/2” or 1/4”. You may have to special order sizes too. Either way, measure first. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
thank you for this. very helpful on what to expect.
Glad you found it helpful and thanks for watching 👊🏼
I’m inspired! I just got a quote of $17k to replace my windows with Pella 150 series, half of that was labor. I’m going to go buy one window, try and do it myself (I’m modestly handy), and if it works out, I’ll keep going. If not, I’m keeping my 37 years old windows and repainting the frames. Thanks!
You will get it done and save a ton of $$ in the process. Half of those contractors won’t even use flashing tape on the frames! For your first start on the first floor to make it easier and start early. Pls consider supporting the channel by liking the video and/or subbing. Much appreciated 👊🏼
This is just what I needed! Pella didn't help at all. What the heck was that skinny pie e? Oh. You explained the skirt and how to attach it. Why can't Pella just say that? Thanks
Glad it helped. Exactly why I made the video. It was stunned Pella didn’t have any gd instructional videos out there. Thanks for the feedback and support 👊🏼
As a roofer the flashing on the bottom of the window is useless over the long term of 20 plus years that will not work you have to pull the frame out the trim boards rather and fold that flashing down over the face of the building otherwise the water will get between the silicone and your flashing it will not stick properly over time maybe a product called water block would be a better use it's a roofing product and never dries we use it around drains
The flashing is meant to protect the sill in the unlikely event water penetrates the seal. Over time the silicone caulking may need to be touched up as is the case with any caulking and if water goes through and drops all way down to sill (gravity will pull that water down) the flashing will protect the wood underneath. Believe me, I’ve seen many window contractors skip this step and only caulk the trim, it was done in my house. It’s advised to run tape flashing on all doors and windows for added protection. It only takes minutes and IMO is very much worth it. I’ll check out the stuff you recommend though. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
Awesome video
Thanks!
Thanks for the advice but I had a question. How do you open up the screen or pop it open
My pleasure. Usually there is a loop at each corner or pins on each side, I can’t remember which, but I am thinking these had the pins. Once you pull the pin, you should be able to pop the screen out or move up/down. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopment thanks!
What if you have old aluminum windows that are covered by drywall on all 4 sides, not trim . How do you measure properly for those?
Measure inside to inside and add 1/4” to each end or 1/2” to total width and height. To be more exact, you can find the current window sticker (usually on the underside of the bottom sash) to find out window specs. If you can’t find the sticker and you really want to know exact measurements, cut the drywall back (assuming you are going to replace the window anyway and put casing trim). Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
Okay, so we are currently replacing a wall previous owners took out. When installing the windows do the go flush with the forger board on the outside? Out home is vinyl of course so curious how to go about the j-trim and all with the window?
Hi, are you installing new construction windows or these are replacement windows going in existing window openings? I ask because you said you are replacing a wall. Also, what is forger board? Typo maybe?
I have a 1970s house with brick exterior and need to replace 5 windows. I'm here trying to get ideas so I don't have to remove bricks.
Why would you remove bricks? Do you want to change the size of existing windows?
@@TrueGritDevelopmentI inherited the home and noticed 2 windows were replaced and the bricks around windows were removed back then. I live in a small town and they don't really carry windows like this especially in my size so would need to be special order. I assume probably an order from lowes and hopefully they make it intact to avoid shipping back broken items.I haven't done windows before so learning as I go. Thanks for the reply.
Got it. Definitely special order it sounds like. BTW taking out brick is not as bad. I would imagine this is brick veneer over framing. If you take a grinder wheel and cut out a straight line on the brick to expose the framing, you can reframe for the size of window you want. Of course, it’s more work, but at least an option in the event a special order is a lot more $$ than picking up stock sized windows.
most of the time where he first measured the window that is like a piece of shoe mold that will pry off then your window will go in .but the way i do it is when he put the window in from the inside the part the window went up against on the outside you dont have to remove the sashes just cut that part off flush with the brickmold from top to bottem take the strips out then the window will come out from the outside and you dont have to take your trim off on the insde whitch can couse problems it never goes back on in the same place you risk tearing the drywall paper if you dont cut the caulk rite .put the window in up tight to your inside trim level insulate put the strips that you cut out with the sawzall a little sanding caulk and paint your done. replaced hundreds this way but i normaly wrap them with coil on the outside.
Definitely an option. It will be difficult on higher floors working on a ladder especially when you’re working solo.
Your video helped me...I've almost got the courage to start the window replacement. Thanks True grit
Glad it helped! Go for it, make sure you start early and pick a dry day in case it takes you longer to finish. It will not take you long, good luck. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
Hi, just a question about a past video regarding the Ramset. I was curious about shooting into cinder block and you said yes and demonstrated it. What type of nail did you use, wondering what type of head it had. I’m wanting to do the board and batten look on the exterior of my stuccoed house…. But skip the board and only batten. I was wanting to glue the batten and shoot a few nails in. Looks like it’s a go…. Curious if you agree? Thanks so much! Your videos are all nicely done!
Hi! I used the yellow tip bullets, check the description in the video for more detail. My only concern with shooting into stucco is the stucco might break apart as your shoot through it, If that is not a concern, then I don’t see why you can’t. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Thank you, great video. Could not find the hidden screw holes. Pella videos are almost useless.
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful. Agree with you on Pella videos, not very informative. Thanks for watching and supporting 👊🏼
Thanks. From the pella instructions I didn't see how to remove the upper side filler bits to access the upper pre-drilled holes and had 4 leftover screws. Your video was a great help in figuring out where they belong.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watching 👊🏽. Please like and share.
This is a great instruction video on replacement windows! Are these instructions the same for the Pella 250 series windows?
Thank you. Pocket replacement windows are all the same. There may be some minor differences as in how the trim pieces connect, but replacing a window is the same. Pls consider supporting the channel by liking the video and/or subbing to channel, it goes a long way. Thank you for your support 👊🏼
Thanks for the vid, hope you still respond this question. My old windows don't have outside trim, instead it has storm window to hold outside and work as outside trim. Is it harder to work with inside trim only? Thanks
You welcome! Are you keeping the storm windows? I would personally not keep them as they are known to trap water and moisture. What are the storm windows screwed onto? Window frame? How is your window terminated at siding? And to answer your question, no it’s not hard to work from outside unless this is a second floor and you have to get up on a ladder. You basically reverse the installation. However, be mindful that your replacement window may be smaller than the original and will leave a gap on the outside, so you will have to do trim. What kind of siding to you have? I know, too many questions.
I am going to try my first one, can this be done from the outside? My inside molding is very elaborate and will be a pain to get it right, outside would be a walk in the park compared to the inside.
Well, the short answer is yes. But, you will have to remove the outside trim and typically that’s more of a hassle than interior AND you want to be right up against the exterior trim once the window is in to make a water tight seal (after applying your siliconized caulk). My recommendation will always be to do it from the inside. Normally all you need to do is pry the casing trim off. What is your setup like?
Looked trashed
👍🏼
I have a window that was already installed by a previous owner however the job was done poorly and I have to reinstall it. Looks like it was once a new construction window and the nailing fins were cut off on the sides and bottom. It's a perfectly fine replacement window so I'm looking at videos like this for pointers. A new construction window this size would start at $360 and is not in the budget right now.
Why are you replacing it?
Ty
Glad it’s helpful. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
Hey, thanks for the video, but how do you know if you need to cut the sill trim piece shorter, how can you be sure it wasn't too long for that sill pitch (and then end up supporting the rear of the window itself?)
You’re welcome, glad you found it helpful. Good question, I personally haven’t had any issue with needing to rip the trim piece. However, if you end up needing to do that, I would recommend dry fitting the window first. If trimming is necessary, use a utility knife for the job. I do not think you’ll need to do that as the trim piece is flexible enough to bend some if necessary. I didn’t understand what you meant by supporting the rear of the window though. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼
Hey! I was watching your video and felt very informed, I will say you can put a small tech screw in the top of the canister
Thank you, glad you found it helpful. Consider subscribing to channel, your support is appreciated ✊🏼
helpful video, thanks
Thanks for watching and supporting ✊🏼