I used a Leviton surface mount fixture. Surface mount is much easier for concrete block walls! It was $10.73, made in USA, and the wires are clamped flat, not screw-on-conductor. It looks very professional in my garage and functions perfectly.
💰 LOOKING FOR A CHEAPER ALTERNATIVE? 💰 The Hubbell 14-50 has skyrocketed in price since this video was made. There is a cheaper Hubbell outlet that provides the same speed of charge. Watch this before deciding 👉🏻 ruclips.net/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/видео.html ***NOTE: Hubbell supports _copper_ wiring only! Incorrectly shown as AL-CU in the video.
@@jmlastname4412Properly sized aluminum wiring is actually far better for larger feeder wire. 4 gauge aluminum runs much cooler than 6 gauge copper and it’s a bit cheaper. Just want to make sure your breaker and receptacle are rated for aluminum wiring. Mobile home feeder wire is 2 gauge aluminum, roughly the same cost as 6/3 and it will never give you issues.
I liked your review, I agree totally with your findings, I opened my 14-50R outlet in the wall, installed by the builder. I had the cheapo, $10 plug. Wrong plug….the plug was discolored and the wire insulation was discolored and over heated, crinkling after two years of use. I bought the Hubble for $100 first, my neighbor bought the Bryant for $50. Exact same plug, except for the brand name. I returned the Hubble and ordered the Bryant. Less demand, less price. All ordered from Amazon..
I used the Eaton one in my garage for over a year and it was perfect! The fact that you install it upside down is great, because it allows the Mobile Connector to hang off of it without problems. It also means you can flush mount it on the wall without a need to install a huge unsightly box. Mine was permanently connected with the cable hanging on the Tesla Cable Organizer. Wish I could post a picture here, but I think it's short-sighted to rule that one out off the bat... it's a great choice IMO.
@@nobodydoingunimportantthings It's the other way around. When it's installed right side up there's tons of receptacle tension and instead of the cord bending it points upwards creating all sorts of problems.
One data point that does ease the load on the 50A outlet: the current Gen2 UMC only supports 32A charge current, so the outlet isn’t loaded to the 40A you might expect. Tesla does sell a Corded Mobile Charger that has a hard-wired NEMA 14-50 plug (not changeable) that supports 40A charging. I’d still choose the Hubbell outlet for it though.
There’s a big difference in price between the Hubble and all the others. Primary difference is Hubble is designed for numerous insertions and removals, while the others are designed for only a few similar to a dryer or range. Its wire clamps are also much better but you must tighten them securely. It’s wise to periodically feel the plug for heat after 1-2 hour’s use. After 6 months use, mine felt warm and I discovered one screw terminal looser than the other. Tightening the offender solved it.
Exactly, the installation makes a much bigger difference than the receptacles themselves, Especially if you don't plug and unplug all the time. I feel comfortable to use the 2nd one and install it carefully. IMHO, I would rather spend more money to get a bigger box.
@@daijoubu4529 If you plan to leave a charger plugged in all the time, tighten screws properly, perform shake test, etc, the residential grade is fine. But periodically check for heat while charging. Use a commercial grade model such as one designed for a RV park if frequent plug & unplug is your routine.
Thanks for the video. I installed mine last year with the Leviton since it was the only one in the store. I mostly leave the UMC on so far I don’t have any issue. The biggest problem I had was actually that the heavy duty wires needed to go straight in from the back. I struggled so much to put the whole thing back in the box.
I bought the Hubble but haven't installed it yet. It is very well made, the wire clamping looks superior and you need to tighten these connections really well. As current runs through these wires they get hot and expand and contract so a cheaper clamp could loosen and that can drive up heat and that is what leads to electrical fires. So really tighten those clamps. One point on the Hubble, the diameter of the plug appears a little larger than the others and that means you may want to get the Hubble face plate that goes with it. It isn't cheap. There may be face plates at your big box store that fit, I didn't try.
I always liked hubbel products. When I'm wiring a charger (for forklifts) up with a plug, I prefer the clamp method of cord strain relief on the hubbel plug. We get good discounts having a partner ID with places like Platt though. Others usually use some type of internal clamp that closes as you screw it together.
Thanks for doing the review, but knocking out the Eaton because you "don't think it would LOOK right"? If you bring wire from your ceiling it is NOT hanging upside down. It has the ground up when coming form the ceiling and looks great.
You kind of glossed over the Hawking in your final analysis, preferring to go for the Leviton compario. I have a Vevor model RV-50A outdoor Power Outlet Box, which has the Xiognda receptacle in it, made in China. The heavy duty steel box is powder coated and should last a long time. Being made in China used to mean cheap knock-off, but that has changed radically over the years. Vevor is also a Chinese company, and its aphorism is “Tough tools, half price”. I really like the Hubble clamps, but are they absolutely necessary? The wear and tear is inside on the brass clamps where the forks go in, and I like your suggestion of just leaving it plugged in. It seems to be working fine for now, and some day will replace it. I feel the plug when it is charging and it is lukewarm but not hot. Is it worth changing? How many amps is the Mach e drawing when it is on its built in charger? It ain’t a Supercharger…
Thanks for the feedback. There’s no reason to charge your car fast in 2 hours if it sits in your garage all night. My EVSE can go up to 32 amps but I personally charge at 15 amps on the daily.
It seems highly unlikely that any receptacle's contacts are steel, as you have inferred. More likely they are a plated brass alloy. Check them with a magnet. The receptacle with half-width contacts as mentioned in a comment, could just as easily have been warmer because of loose wiring. When tightening stranded wires into a connection it is IMPORTANT to wiggle and retighten them several times to assure a lasting low resistance connection.
I've got the fully enclosed weather proof Eaton box. It was a bit more @ $45 but it looks nice and since the plug is near the garage door opening, if it's raining hard and the garage door accidentally gets left open, it's one less thing to worry about I guess.
Not sure if the Tesla Wall Connector was available 2 years ago, but nowadays If you're going to spend almost $160 for a Hubble you might just as well splurge for the Tesla proprietary connector wired on a 60 amp circuit. Just because the Nema 14-50 connector is protected by a 50 amp circuit breaker doesn't mean the car charger is going to draw full current. Typically any household circuit is designed to work at 80% of rated current continuously. A properly wired 15 amp circuit should be designed so that the load never needs to deal with continuous 15 amp draw for safety reasons. I guess what I'm saying is that provided all the Nema connectors you reviewed meet National Electric Code specifications they should be more than adequate to charge your Tesla safely. I'd be inclined to buy the Leviton.
before i got the hpwc, ive been using the Flush Mount Range Outlet for a year and had no problem. the tesla center i picked up my car from uses it too in their showroom
Would love to see an update of this video, so new EV owners searching the web today will be likely to see this important information. Very well presented and gives a lot of important context about each nema outlet.
While researching for a heavy industrial outlet, i found a little less pricey outlet by Bryant Electric 9450FR 50 Amp 125/250V NEMA 14-50R sold for about $48, apparently Hubbell and Bryant are from the same company.
I have Eagle and Leviton Nema 10-50 outlets that are over 30 years old. None have failed and all made in the USA. If you ever have to use a screw terminal you need to crimp a sleeve over your wire ends and torque your screws correctly.
Another thing to consider: If that Leviton fails, you also need to replace the plug as well - not just the receptacle. The replacement cost adds up fast.
I don't get it. Are you saying that Leviton is less reliable? I have never heard of data collected about number of times you plug into a socket. My assumption is that the cheapest of these is going to have a safety factor so high that it would never fail. That is the purpose of a UL certification!
I don’t know anything about UL certification and what/how they test. But I assure you, a lot of house fires are caused by electrical devices and panels that are UL certified.
The Leviton will be just as reliable if you don't plug/unplug the connector. ONLY IF it's a permanent install. As soon as you start unplugging it, it WILL be less reliable 100%. These outlets are meant to power your dryer, which is plugged/unplugged a few times in the receptacles lifetime. If you unplug your Tesla connector every night.... do NOT skimp, get an industrial connector. The last thing you want is a house fire.
we have a Tesla glass solar roof and two power walls. And just the other day bought a Tesla model 3 dual motor. So now we are installing the charger system. The electrical wiring is now all Eaton. So I am tempted to buy the Eaton receptical. The cord will stay home, plugged in most of the time. And I don't believe in upside down! But we will probably buy the Hubbell. 2023 Tesla's don't come with the cord, you gotta buy it now. We bought a 32A, approx $270.
My recommendation is to buy the hardwired wall connector. But if you really want an outlet, the brand doesn’t need to match the wiring. Just make sure you go with an industrial outlet.
I thought this was the case too, as I never unplug my Mobile Connector. But after about a year I was getting overheat warnings on the Leviton - same as the one in your video. I dutifully retorqued the terminals and after another six months, I got the warnings again. This time the terminals were still tight but the internal contacts were weakened and vibrating with the current. Using a contact stethoscope I could hear the 60Hz hum in the receptacle that would change as I moved the plug back and forth a little. Not unplugging it, just rocking without unplugging. So the internal contacts were weakened after almost two years of daily use (I drive a lot).
If you feel a marked increase in temperature, immediately replace receptacle to avoid a melt-down. If the contacts are visible, you may see carbon deposits. If on a very tight budget and handy, you may be able to refurbish receptacle, but most people don't take the risk.
This shows the flaw of the rating system of Amazon. People who generally buy this suff on Amazon buy the cheapest option. As a master electrician, we use Hubbell and I absolutely China made stuff at all costs. The Eaton surface mount one you showed is what we commonly install for electric ranges. Ground is always up on any 250 volt recept. I would have no problem using SER cable which is aluminum to something like this in my own home.
I'm in the process of a home being built and adding an EV outlet. The reviews of the outlets was very helpful. Perhaps this is a side bar but why does Tesla say you need a 50A breaker? To the best of my knowledge, none of the Teslas charge at a rate greater than 32A. The 125% breaker sizing means you only need a 40A breaker. Any thoughts on that?
There are no receptacles currently available for 40A. So, you upsize to the next ampereage size. You can use a 40A breaker and use #8 wire. People do that with Electric Ranges all the time.
While it is true the Mobile Connector will only draw 32, the NEMA 14-50 outlet is rated for a constant draw of 40 and requires a 50 amp circuit breaker to meet code. Even the Tesla Mobile Connector Gen 1 draws 40 amp, and you don't know what the next person who buys your home might plug in. Why cheap out on the circuit breaker?
@@rickhall7955 The house is done and I opted for a 50 amp circuit/breaker and the more expensive Hubbell outlet & cover plate. What started my question was that the electrician (for some reason) only wanted to install a 40amp set up. I'm with you on the basic question about what could come next. On top of that, using a properly built 50amp set up is just smart for safety. THANKS!
thanks! I'will change to eaton due to my wires comes from ceiling. if you use others except for #1 of thin one, 1/4 wire would be difficult to get to the other end.
It’s possible to bring them up and over the top. Watch this week’s video to see how I did it with a 6-50 outlet ruclips.net/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/видео.html.
I have a NEMA 10-30 outlet in my garage. I saw a variable EVSE that I can move to 24Amps and get an adapter from 14-50 to 10-30. My only question is there is a green wire coming out of the wall as well (i'm guessing that is ground) Do I need to do something with that? I'm charging a Chevy Bolt EUV.
I hesitate to comment because I can’t be sure why a green wire is coming out of the wall instead of being connected to the outlet. I also don’t like using adapters. Unless you need to keep the 10-30 for something else, I would just replace it with a 14-50 receptacle. You’d still need to keep the 30 amp circuit breaker and charge at max 24 amps, but it would be safer than a cheap Chinese adapter from Amazon.
@@handydadtv I think that is the proper way, future proof the outlet by updating to a 14-50 then labeling as 30 Amp. Hopefully there is a ground in the outlet.
Is the Leviton ok to use? I’m reading that it’s been melting for some people after a couple months use? Is it doing that because the wires aren’t tightened or is it because of the quality? Or could it be from using a 60 amp breaker instead of a 40 amp?
I don’t get it Big Dan. The Tesla home charging document you showed indicated a 32 amp max draw for charging any of the three models, the same as my Chevy Bolt. Also, the Tesla recommended wire size of 6 AWG is for circuits up to 150 ft! How many home garage installations are going to need 6 AWG?? 8 AWG on a typical garage install will carry 50 amps, and a 40 amp breaker meets the 1.25 x 32 rule of thumb. I did my garage install of 25 ft from the main panel using 8 AWG on a 40 amp breaker with a mid-priced 14-50 outlet from a local hardware store; it works like a charm. It seems to me you should match your needs rather than blindly accept the most demanding scenario. Overkill can be unnecessary and expensive. JMHO M
$500 is a bit too much. At that price, it’s cheaper to just buy a $100 receptacle and a $200 mobile charger that you permanently leave plugged into it.
Exactly what I was looking for - thank you for this video. Problem is the Hubbell recepticle (HBL9450A) now costs $163. WoW! I'm searching for a lower price on this product. Appreciate any leads on this research...
Great video, I just watched it again...! Is the Hubbell having a full lengthy contact surface to allow max current delivery?? Since a few months a have some connection issues with my Tesla... Are there a actually double receptical out there??? I have a 60amp capable cable and need to feed 2 30 amp devices. Thank you again for your video. Your voice is also very pleasant!
Are you sure those contacts are steel? I really doubt it. Put a magnet on them. I think they are tin plated brass, which is actually better than the others. They don't corrode as much. Also I was trying to watch to see if the temperature ratings were different. The Eaton is designed to make an extension cord. That is why the prongs are rotated 180.
The Hubbell 14-50 now cost $110 on Amazon. Hubbell makes the Bryant brand that is sold at Grainger. It is the exact same plug but sold under different brands. Grainger sells the Bryant one for $45.
@@handydadtv Good, it is a shame that sellers are getting greedy and gouging consumers. It is important to get a commercial grade outlet but $110 is out of hand. Good info to share alternative options.
Leviton 14-50 (Home Depot) with half contact runs hot, charger will drop to 50% occasionally. UPDATE: I replaced all the Levitons with Cooper or Eaton (several locations). Feels cool to the touch even after several hours.
I found this to be true also. Glad I found this video. Using Leviton for over 2 years, randomly gets hot so was looking for a solution. Will try the enerlites as I leave mine plugged in always. Thank you for the great video and hard work
I just had my outlet melt the other day. Though I don’t know for sure cause I will be using an industrial outlet (either the Hubble or Cooper) to replace as they use plates to tighten to wire instead of screw as well as better materials for clamps. I like the advice to check heat at outlet.
2 years after you published this, March 30, 2022, the Hubbel is now $159.99! BTW, good practice to check heavy duty outlets like this after about 6 months for warmth and loose wires. As in power down, take apart, and tighten screws.
The 14-50 has become the defacto standard for EV chargers and that demand has driven prices up. I’m working on a video to talk about cheaper alternatives.
@@handydadtv Most smaller EV's (Leafs, Mini, that weird BMW, etc.) specify the NEMA 6-20.The 6-20 is also useful in home shops, for large saws, vacuums, pressure washers, etc. In this way, one outlet can do double duty. Here is something you might want to point out: Using a NEMA 6-20, which is 240 volts, 20 amps, is more efficient than 120 volt, 20 amp circuit. 240 Volt AC power converts to DC more efficiently. Tesla clearly shows this, if you compare a NEMA 5-20 (120 volt, 20 amp, now standard in some places in new homes) outlet with a 6-20 outlet (240 volts, 20 amps). The 5-20 provides 4 miles per hour of charging to a Model Y, while the 6-20 provides 14 miles per hour of charging, more than enough for many Tesla users (8 hour of charging provides 112 miles of charging, enough for most users, and less expensive to install. You have doubled the power (120 to 240 volts at the same current), yet the charging potential has almost tripled! The reason is multiphase power converts more efficiently to DC than does single phase. In other words, installing at least a 6-20 can save you money over using a 120 volt outlet over a short period of time. The 6-20 is also easy to install, using standard 12 or 10 gauge Romex.
That’s a really good point! I just think Tesla owners go for top performance in everything, even charging. It’s in their DNA to spend money to get the best. Know what I mean? I also think the majority of owners ARE NOT the kind of people to do their own electrical work. So if they’re hiring an electrician to run a new circuit, the labor is the most expensive part of the bill anyway. The cost difference to do 20-amp to 50-amp may be negligible.
5:50 The Ground prong should be in the TOP position, regardless if it is for EV, Stove, Drier or a Power tool. I do not know why EATON put it at the bottom.
We had a 220v line installed in our garage this summer and I asked if they used Hubble. They used a Leviton, but if I start getting a lot of heat when I charge the car, I'll swap it out for a Hubble myself.
Great video with a lot of useful information in there! Looking forward to the mentioned installation video which into the details regarding the needed wires etc. Any idea when you'll do and upload that? Again, great work! 👍
Picked up the car in the middle of quarantine (ruclips.net/video/71-ots2yG2E/видео.html) and haven’t driven it enough to need fast charging! Hopefully soon.
Would be good to have Leviton tech support weigh in on its receptacle...seems to me, if one installs with ground orientation up, adapter plugged in and fixed in place with clamps, there should be no issues. I split charge off one receptacle to 2 EVs this way and have had no issues with the Leviton. Its UL listed to 50amps. I think something is very wrong when it doesnt hold up and Leviton still stocks them. Hubbel must have had a nice dinner with Elon.
Hi, thanks for all the information. I purchased a industrial grade nema 14-50 outlet. It require 2.465" diameter cover. However, I only can find flush mount cover with this size but can't find exposed work cover for this size. Could you recommend one for exposed work cover? Thanks!
One reason there aren’t a lot of reviews for the Hubble is that most people are buying them locally or through an electrician. So they are not buying the higher quality outlets from Amazon.
Thanks for all the educational videos you produce, they are easy to follow. With the Hubbell 14-50 being out of stock for many vendors, do you have any opinions on the Hubbell RR450F for EV charging? Thanks
The RR450F is residential grade, not industrial grade. As an alternative industrial grade, look for the Bryant 9450FR at Grainger. Much better price too.
2 pole 240v will only work as 240v between the 2 hot poles, whereas you can get an adapter to convert 3 pole 240v to 2 separare 120v circuits by getting the 120v between either of the two hot poles and the neutral pole. 3 pole is required for some appliances that use both voltages, and RVs. 2 pole will work with welders and other equipment that needs only 240v.
I just ordered the Hubbell. I agree that you don't want to go cheap. I want to run the wires through a conduit with wires already going through it. It's only a 10 foot run from the breaker box to the outlet. To save space in the conduit, can I use 6 Awg wire for the red and black but 8 Awg for the neutral?
The Tesla UMC doesn't use the neutral, so you can install a NEMA 6-50 instead of a 14-50 and save a little money on the copper. HOWEVER, I would still recommend the 14-50 for greater compatibility with RVs and other EV chargers in the future.
Check local electrical suppliers for the Hubbell... I've bought half a dozen of these for RV and generator hookups and paid less than $10 for that exact receptacle.
Great review but I could not find the link for the Hubble nema 14 50 you found and you recommend which is I seem to be by that I agree with you could you send me a link please it's really urgent that I get it as soon as possible as it possibly the price went down on Amazon so you don't see it. $68 as you said
Wait, I thought 50 amp circuits only needed to be 8 gauge wire. Am I wrong, or is the guy in the video wrong? My dad told me that 50 amp circuits are 8 gauge.
Why is the $70 better than the $15? Both look brass. Is there difference in plating that would make one endure more plug/unplug cycles than the other, or what?
Industrial grade NEMA 14-50 connectors are meant for high duty cycles (meaning: you can plug/unplug it many times). Standard connectors are only rated for a few hundred cycles at most, since they're meant to plug in a dryer once and forgetting about it. If you use them often, you'll wear and stretch the contacts which will ultimately means your connector won't stay put, but may also cause arcing. Bottom line: if you plug/unplug your connector a lot, get the expensive outlet. If you leave your connector plugged in and maybe unplug it a few times per year, get the cheaper connector.
The expensive Hubbell has fewer reviews because most people buy the cheaper versions. As an installer I refuse to use a cheapo device for EV charging. The cheap device is designed for short duration use. Not for the constant load of charging.
Great video. Me, I do not settle for the cheap ones. There is a reason Tesla recommended the Hubbell. I am sure that Tesla has done their research with NEMA plugs. If I am riding on my expensive investments, why would I settle for a cheap NEMA plug? Remember the old saying, "You get what you pay for." It is like, if I own an expensive Porsche race car, would I buy some cheap Chinese made tires for it?
Great video HD! Just added the Hubbell to my shopping cart on Amazon. Of course, used your affiliate link. Do you think it's ok to run the 6-3 wire for a 100' run? Did you ever film the installation of your 14-50?
100-foot run should be fine. I haven’t installed mine yet! Since making this video, I moved into a new house so I brought the Hubbell with me to install here when I eventually get commuting back to work! Stay tuned...
I order to get a ul or csa listing all of the devices would have to certified to the same criteria. You missed the most important criteria in my opinion which is for use in the US that any electrical device be certified and tested by UL or other AHJ ie CSAus, ETL etc
I have AL prewire in the wall. I would like to use the Hubbell receptacle. In the video at 7.53, on your handwritten summary you say Hubbell "AL-CU wire", but on the left side screenshot "NEMA 14-50 Details" it says "Copper Wire only". I'm now confused, can I use the HBL9450A with AL wiring?
The Hubbell has stronger contacts. I have seen cases where the cheap ones have melted. FYI the hubbell has a slightly larger diameter and needs a special cover plate.
The Hubbell is the only one made from bakelite which won't melt. All the other ones are starting to see failures in EV applications where the contacts heat up and melt the plastic housing. Your choice....
"BRASS" vs Copper vs Aluminum Brass is harder and springy - will return back to its original position. However it has poor ~30% conductivity. Expect it to heat up. Copper is softer and will easily deform when used as a socket. Yeah I had one and it suck! But it has 100% conductivity. Aluminum is in the middle, with 60% conductivity. It unfortunately corrodes and become a hazard. There is one (extension) socket (forgot the brand) with copper plate contacts BUT backed by springs to make perfect contacts all the time! It makes for a great extension, my power tool wont go unplug even when yanked!
wait...now I am confused....so, I don't HAVE to buy a chargepoint, Juicebox, etc to get LVL2 speeds? I can just install a 14-50 and use the normal cable that came with my tesla?
@@handydadtv well shoot! I’m just going to have someone install a 14-50 outlet and buy the adapter…I don’t even see a need to spend the extra $600 on a third party charger
Good info. Does the Tesla use 120 volts when charging from the 14-50 outlet? I have a 6-50 outlet and am thinking of changing to 14-50 to match a relative's 14-50 for their Tesla when we go to visit. On the other hand, I could just get 2 adapters, one for each outlet and call it good...
6-50 only has two wires (plus ground). 14-50 has three wires so you likely can’t swap it. But I wouldn’t waste your time anyway. Just get two adapter. BTW, both 6-50 and 14-50 are 220V outlets so you’ll get an equally fast charge from both.
This is great info, thank you! I will let the electrician provide the 6/3 wiring but would like to order the Hubbell 14-50 receptacle and 50A breaker in advance. Any advice on specs for the breaker? I was going to go with Square D but single pole? Double pole? Etc?
Which extension cord supports the 125V charging for Tesla? My electrical box won't support a Nema 14-50 50A without a whole new electrical panel at a cost of nearly $9,000
Love your approach and the value of what you present. We sold our house a year ago and are renting a nice house for a couple of years. When My Tesla Model Y arrives I will need to charge it. The rental has old wiring coming in to the house and a relatively new circuit panel with lots of room. Unfortunately the panel is at the exact opposite end of the house. So, wiring a 50 AMP circuit would cost $1,500 to $2,250. Next to the garage (inside the house) is a dryer with a 30 AMP outlet. I was thinking of having an electrician punch a hole through to the garage, put in a splitter and a 10-30 outlet. Cost about $200. ( we do laundry once a week... so being careful to not use both outlets at one time is no big deal to us). Your thoughts?
Sounds like a terrible plan to me. Not only a code violation, so you would be doing it yourself, but all it would take is someone not familiar with the plan to do some laundry. Burning down the house isn’t worth it. How bout installing a gas dryer and using that line for charging?
UPDATE: our plan worked very well. Bought a new place to be near newest grandchild and had a 50 AMP installed (along with some other work we had done). Now I am curious about two related items. 1) new place does not have a garage (I bought a canopy from Costco $250) and car gets hot (even with canopy). So I find I am using air conditioner to avoid over heating and using heater in winter. Anyone know if this is bad for the car? 2) we have a condo in Los Angeles to be near other grandkids (parking is covered but even if HOA agreed, not sure it makes sense to have an electrician run line and install 50 AMP. Should I just plan on using Tesla Superchargers? Any thoughts?
I use overheat protection without A/C only. Max temp is ~110 in the car (I live in NJ). If you get HOA approval for the outlet in the parking area, think about some way to turn it off so people can’t steal your power. Of course, that might instigate vandalism.
@@handydadtv thanks for the suggestions. I have toggled the overheat protection. I just feel squeamish about A) letting it get over 100 and B) not really understand the cars tolerances or what overheat protection really does.
@@handydadtv Ehh. Not much actual content in that video. It would have been nice if he had at least done a resistance check from the breaker to the outlet. He did no due diligence in actually understanding why his cheap plug failed. But thanks for the link. Also, my electrician, when installing my sub panel in the garage, said to check the connections of the high amperage circuits, since they can come a little loose over time due to the cyclical expansion and contraction of the wires as they heat up and cool. It would have been interesting if the guy in the video had just pulled the plug out, cleaned the contact points and reinstalled the plug, to see if that changed his situation.
@@handydadtv My point is that if this is a common enough thing that happens that my electrician mentioned it to me, It might be happening more frequently than people think. It might be possible that the clamping mechanism in the hubbell receptacle alleviates this, but yes, I would and plan to do a routine check on this knowing that it is a failure mode for high current circuits.
lol i bought the same one tesla got in their showroom. that white plastic one. if this video was out last year. i'd probably either get the black center one or the hubble
You don't need a 50 amp breaker for the UMC, nor do you need 6/3 wire. The maximum draw of the UMC is 32 amps on a 40 amp circuit. Therefore useless to install anything over 40 amp breaker with 8/3 wire (even 8/2 wire will work for Tesla UMC but not with some other chargers). Code does not require 50 amp breaker for NEMA 14-50 outlet, minimum requirement is 40 amp breaker with 8 AWG wire. I would only use 6 AWG wire if I had a really long wire run (over 50 feet), to reduce voltage drop over long distances.
RV parks use 14-50 outlets, so I’m sure you can get an outdoor enclosure for it. But probably need to get that from an electrical supply, not Home Depot.
I was planning to install my plug upside down so the ground prong is down until I watched this video. It says Tesla asks for the ground prong to be up. Is this a must and if yes why?
The adapter plug has the ground pin in the opposite direction of the cord. If you hang the Tesla charger down below the outlet, then ground pin goes up. If you attach the charger to the wall above the outlet, ground pin goes down.
I used a Leviton surface mount fixture. Surface mount is much easier for concrete block walls! It was $10.73, made in USA, and the wires are clamped flat, not screw-on-conductor. It looks very professional in my garage and functions perfectly.
Thanks for letting us know
💰 LOOKING FOR A CHEAPER ALTERNATIVE? 💰
The Hubbell 14-50 has skyrocketed in price since this video was made. There is a cheaper Hubbell outlet that provides the same speed of charge. Watch this before deciding 👉🏻 ruclips.net/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/видео.html
***NOTE: Hubbell supports _copper_ wiring only! Incorrectly shown as AL-CU in the video.
Aluminum wire should NEVER be used whether the device is marked compatible or not. ESPECIALLY on a charger.
@@jmlastname4412Properly sized aluminum wiring is actually far better for larger feeder wire. 4 gauge aluminum runs much cooler than 6 gauge copper and it’s a bit cheaper. Just want to make sure your breaker and receptacle are rated for aluminum wiring. Mobile home feeder wire is 2 gauge aluminum, roughly the same cost as 6/3 and it will never give you issues.
I liked your review, I agree totally with your findings, I opened my 14-50R outlet in the wall, installed by the builder. I had the cheapo, $10 plug. Wrong plug….the plug was discolored and the wire insulation was discolored and over heated, crinkling after two years of use.
I bought the Hubble for $100 first, my neighbor bought the Bryant for $50. Exact same plug, except for the brand name. I returned the Hubble and ordered the Bryant. Less demand, less price. All ordered from Amazon..
Thanks for the info!
I used the Eaton one in my garage for over a year and it was perfect! The fact that you install it upside down is great, because it allows the Mobile Connector to hang off of it without problems. It also means you can flush mount it on the wall without a need to install a huge unsightly box. Mine was permanently connected with the cable hanging on the Tesla Cable Organizer. Wish I could post a picture here, but I think it's short-sighted to rule that one out off the bat... it's a great choice IMO.
the is the one that I purchased as well
Bad idea to install upside down for two reasons, 1) it creates tension on the receptacle, 2) it creates tension on the cable.
@@nobodydoingunimportantthings It's the other way around. When it's installed right side up there's tons of receptacle tension and instead of the cord bending it points upwards creating all sorts of problems.
Good comment. Another Plus is if the conduit comes from the ceiling
One data point that does ease the load on the 50A outlet: the current Gen2 UMC only supports 32A charge current, so the outlet isn’t loaded to the 40A you might expect. Tesla does sell a Corded Mobile Charger that has a hard-wired NEMA 14-50 plug (not changeable) that supports 40A charging. I’d still choose the Hubbell outlet for it though.
Thanks
There’s a big difference in price between the Hubble and all the others. Primary difference is Hubble is designed for numerous insertions and removals, while the others are designed for only a few similar to a dryer or range. Its wire clamps are also much better but you must tighten them securely. It’s wise to periodically feel the plug for heat after 1-2 hour’s use. After 6 months use, mine felt warm and I discovered one screw terminal looser than the other. Tightening the offender solved it.
Great tip! I had a similar problem with a dryer plug I installed, and the heat eventually destroyed it.
It’s really important to do the “wiggle test” while tightening the plug to spec. They slowly vibrate themselves loose unless you do this.
Exactly, the installation makes a much bigger difference than the receptacles themselves, Especially if you don't plug and unplug all the time.
I feel comfortable to use the 2nd one and install it carefully. IMHO, I would rather spend more money to get a bigger box.
Residential vs spec/commercial/hospital grade
@@daijoubu4529 If you plan to leave a charger plugged in all the time, tighten screws properly, perform shake test, etc, the residential grade is fine. But periodically check for heat while charging. Use a commercial grade model such as one designed for a RV park if frequent plug & unplug is your routine.
Thanks for the video. I installed mine last year with the Leviton since it was the only one in the store. I mostly leave the UMC on so far I don’t have any issue. The biggest problem I had was actually that the heavy duty wires needed to go straight in from the back. I struggled so much to put the whole thing back in the box.
Yeah that one needs a deep box for sure.
@@handydadtv giggity
I bought the Hubble but haven't installed it yet. It is very well made, the wire clamping looks superior and you need to tighten these connections really well. As current runs through these wires they get hot and expand and contract so a cheaper clamp could loosen and that can drive up heat and that is what leads to electrical fires. So really tighten those clamps.
One point on the Hubble, the diameter of the plug appears a little larger than the others and that means you may want to get the Hubble face plate that goes with it. It isn't cheap. There may be face plates at your big box store that fit, I didn't try.
Good tip. Thanks.
As I'm watching this, I'm seeing a recommended video from the same channel to avoid the Hubbell. I must go watch now....
Opinions change. 🤷🏻♂️
I always liked hubbel products. When I'm wiring a charger (for forklifts) up with a plug, I prefer the clamp method of cord strain relief on the hubbel plug. We get good discounts having a partner ID with places like Platt though.
Others usually use some type of internal clamp that closes as you screw it together.
Hubble all the way. I use nothing else in my business and sleep well at night!
Thanks for doing the review, but knocking out the Eaton because you "don't think it would LOOK right"? If you bring wire from your ceiling it is NOT hanging upside down. It has the ground up when coming form the ceiling and looks great.
Fair point but I still don’t like that one for EV charging. I’ve seen pictures of it melted.
You kind of glossed over the Hawking in your final analysis, preferring to go for the Leviton compario. I have a Vevor model RV-50A outdoor Power Outlet Box, which has the Xiognda receptacle in it, made in China. The heavy duty steel box is powder coated and should last a long time.
Being made in China used to mean cheap knock-off, but that has changed radically over the years. Vevor is also a Chinese company, and its aphorism is “Tough tools, half price”. I really like the Hubble clamps, but are they absolutely necessary? The wear and tear is inside on the brass clamps where the forks go in, and I like your suggestion of just leaving it plugged in. It seems to be working fine for now, and some day will replace it. I feel the plug when it is charging and it is lukewarm but not hot. Is it worth changing? How many amps is the Mach e drawing when it is on its built in charger? It ain’t a Supercharger…
Thanks for the feedback. There’s no reason to charge your car fast in 2 hours if it sits in your garage all night. My EVSE can go up to 32 amps but I personally charge at 15 amps on the daily.
It seems highly unlikely that any receptacle's contacts are steel, as you have inferred. More likely they are a plated brass alloy. Check them with a magnet.
The receptacle with half-width contacts as mentioned in a comment, could just as easily have been warmer because of loose wiring.
When tightening stranded wires into a connection it is IMPORTANT to wiggle and retighten them several times to assure a lasting low resistance connection.
Good advice!
I've got the fully enclosed weather proof Eaton box. It was a bit more @ $45 but it looks nice and since the plug is near the garage door opening, if it's raining hard and the garage door accidentally gets left open, it's one less thing to worry about I guess.
Good idea
There is an improved Leviton 14-50 improved outlet 279-S000 which is roughly $12 and that may contend well with all other choices besides Hubbell
Thanks
Thank you for making this video. I recently bought a Tesla, and I need to purchase a NEMA 14-50 outlet. Your video made it easy. Thanks!
My pleasure
Not sure if the Tesla Wall Connector was available 2 years ago, but nowadays If you're going to spend almost $160 for a Hubble you might just as well splurge for the Tesla proprietary connector wired on a 60 amp circuit. Just because the Nema 14-50 connector is protected by a 50 amp circuit breaker doesn't mean the car charger is going to draw full current. Typically any household circuit is designed to work at 80% of rated current continuously. A properly wired 15 amp circuit should be designed so that the load never needs to deal with continuous 15 amp draw for safety reasons. I guess what I'm saying is that provided all the Nema connectors you reviewed meet National Electric Code specifications they should be more than adequate to charge your Tesla safely. I'd be inclined to buy the Leviton.
I definitely recommend a hard wired charger over an outlet. If you must have an outlet, I only recommend Hubbell or Bryant.
No brainer. Go with the Hubble. That’s what I use when building high voltage datacenters.
before i got the hpwc, ive been using the Flush Mount Range Outlet for a year and had no problem. the tesla center i picked up my car from uses it too in their showroom
Would love to see an update of this video, so new EV owners searching the web today will be likely to see this important information. Very well presented and gives a lot of important context about each nema outlet.
I bought the Hubble plugs 2 years ago after watching your video, it’s worked great ever since.
Thanks for the comment. I will put it on my list.
While researching for a heavy industrial outlet, i found a little less pricey outlet by Bryant Electric 9450FR 50 Amp 125/250V NEMA 14-50R sold for about $48, apparently Hubbell and Bryant are from the same company.
Hubbell NEMA 14-50 is TOO EXPENSIVE! Do this instead.
ruclips.net/video/R2cRNzSbw48/видео.html
I have Eagle and Leviton Nema 10-50 outlets that are over 30 years old. None have failed and all made in the USA. If you ever have to use a screw terminal you need to crimp a sleeve over your wire ends and torque your screws correctly.
Thanks
Another thing to consider: If that Leviton fails, you also need to replace the plug as well - not just the receptacle. The replacement cost adds up fast.
Very true.
The UMC draws 32 amps, not 50 as mentioned in the video. Thank you for showing us all of the options
I was speaking based on the breaker capacity. Didn’t get that specific.
Thanks for bringing some attention to the outlet as a part of the charging system. I feel it's often overlooked.
Three years later, my views have changed. Watch ruclips.net/video/1BnK4a4aVpU/видео.html
So glad I saw this video. I just purchased the Leviton nema 14-50 and I will return it asap. Hubbell it is.
Good. Now you’ll have one less thing to worry about!
I don't get it.
Are you saying that Leviton is less reliable?
I have never heard of data collected about number of times you plug into a socket.
My assumption is that the cheapest of these is going to have a safety factor so high that it would never fail.
That is the purpose of a UL certification!
I don’t know anything about UL certification and what/how they test. But I assure you, a lot of house fires are caused by electrical devices and panels that are UL certified.
I agree entirely (unless the unit is a Leviton knock-off...if there is such a thing...lol).
The Leviton will be just as reliable if you don't plug/unplug the connector. ONLY IF it's a permanent install. As soon as you start unplugging it, it WILL be less reliable 100%. These outlets are meant to power your dryer, which is plugged/unplugged a few times in the receptacles lifetime. If you unplug your Tesla connector every night.... do NOT skimp, get an industrial connector. The last thing you want is a house fire.
Great info!! The Hubble outlet is now $162 at the link you have for Amazon🥺😮
Yikes! Check out this alternative ruclips.net/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/видео.html
we have a Tesla glass solar roof and two power walls. And just the other day bought a Tesla model 3 dual motor. So now we are installing the charger system. The electrical wiring is now all Eaton. So I am tempted to buy the Eaton receptical. The cord will stay home, plugged in most of the time. And I don't believe in upside down! But we will probably buy the Hubbell. 2023 Tesla's don't come with the cord, you gotta buy it now. We bought a 32A, approx $270.
My recommendation is to buy the hardwired wall connector.
But if you really want an outlet, the brand doesn’t need to match the wiring. Just make sure you go with an industrial outlet.
I thought this was the case too, as I never unplug my Mobile Connector. But after about a year I was getting overheat warnings on the Leviton - same as the one in your video. I dutifully retorqued the terminals and after another six months, I got the warnings again. This time the terminals were still tight but the internal contacts were weakened and vibrating with the current. Using a contact stethoscope I could hear the 60Hz hum in the receptacle that would change as I moved the plug back and forth a little. Not unplugging it, just rocking without unplugging. So the internal contacts were weakened after almost two years of daily use (I drive a lot).
If you feel a marked increase in temperature, immediately replace receptacle to avoid a melt-down. If the contacts are visible, you may see carbon deposits. If on a very tight budget and handy, you may be able to refurbish receptacle, but most people don't take the risk.
Luckily Tesla has a temperature sensor in the plug. I wish they were all made that way.
This shows the flaw of the rating system of Amazon. People who generally buy this suff on Amazon buy the cheapest option. As a master electrician, we use Hubbell and I absolutely China made stuff at all costs. The Eaton surface mount one you showed is what we commonly install for electric ranges. Ground is always up on any 250 volt recept. I would have no problem using SER cable which is aluminum to something like this in my own home.
Thanks for the info
I used the Leviton 3 years non with no issue. I would think if it fails the breaker will trip.
Hope so
I'm in the process of a home being built and adding an EV outlet. The reviews of the outlets was very helpful. Perhaps this is a side bar but why does Tesla say you need a 50A breaker? To the best of my knowledge, none of the Teslas charge at a rate greater than 32A. The 125% breaker sizing means you only need a 40A breaker. Any thoughts on that?
There are no receptacles currently available for 40A. So, you upsize to the next ampereage size. You can use a 40A breaker and use #8 wire. People do that with Electric Ranges all the time.
While it is true the Mobile Connector will only draw 32, the NEMA 14-50 outlet is rated for a constant draw of 40 and requires a 50 amp circuit breaker to meet code. Even the Tesla Mobile Connector Gen 1 draws 40 amp, and you don't know what the next person who buys your home might plug in. Why cheap out on the circuit breaker?
@@rickhall7955 The house is done and I opted for a 50 amp circuit/breaker and the more expensive Hubbell outlet & cover plate. What started my question was that the electrician (for some reason) only wanted to install a 40amp set up. I'm with you on the basic question about what could come next. On top of that, using a properly built 50amp set up is just smart for safety. THANKS!
thanks! I'will change to eaton due to my wires comes from ceiling. if you use others except for #1 of thin one, 1/4 wire would be difficult to get to the other end.
It’s possible to bring them up and over the top. Watch this week’s video to see how I did it with a 6-50 outlet ruclips.net/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/видео.html.
I have a NEMA 10-30 outlet in my garage. I saw a variable EVSE that I can move to 24Amps and get an adapter from 14-50 to 10-30. My only question is there is a green wire coming out of the wall as well (i'm guessing that is ground) Do I need to do something with that? I'm charging a Chevy Bolt EUV.
I hesitate to comment because I can’t be sure why a green wire is coming out of the wall instead of being connected to the outlet. I also don’t like using adapters. Unless you need to keep the 10-30 for something else, I would just replace it with a 14-50 receptacle. You’d still need to keep the 30 amp circuit breaker and charge at max 24 amps, but it would be safer than a cheap Chinese adapter from Amazon.
@@handydadtv I think that is the proper way, future proof the outlet by updating to a 14-50 then labeling as 30 Amp. Hopefully there is a ground in the outlet.
@Joel-re1jz The green wire is likely a ground. But you need to test it.
Is the Leviton ok to use? I’m reading that it’s been melting for some people after a couple months use? Is it doing that because the wires aren’t tightened or is it because of the quality? Or could it be from using a 60 amp breaker instead of a 40 amp?
Buy an industrial outlet. Or just hard wire it.
I don’t get it Big Dan.
The Tesla home charging document you showed indicated a 32 amp max draw for charging any of the three models, the same as my Chevy Bolt. Also, the Tesla recommended wire size of 6 AWG is for circuits up to 150 ft! How many home garage installations are going to need 6 AWG?? 8 AWG on a typical garage install will carry 50 amps, and a 40 amp breaker meets the 1.25 x 32 rule of thumb.
I did my garage install of 25 ft from the main panel using 8 AWG on a 40 amp breaker with a mid-priced 14-50 outlet from a local hardware store; it works like a charm.
It seems to me you should match your needs rather than blindly accept the most demanding scenario. Overkill can be unnecessary and expensive. JMHO
M
That’s fine. You have freedom of choice in your house. But I can’t tell people to disregard the manufacturer’s instructions.
If you found a 500$ outlet? Would you have justified that purchase as well? Peace of mind?
$500 is a bit too much. At that price, it’s cheaper to just buy a $100 receptacle and a $200 mobile charger that you permanently leave plugged into it.
Exactly what I was looking for - thank you for this video. Problem is the Hubbell recepticle (HBL9450A) now costs $163. WoW! I'm searching for a lower price on this product. Appreciate any leads on this research...
ruclips.net/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/видео.html
Great video, I just watched it again...!
Is the Hubbell having a full lengthy contact surface to allow max current delivery??
Since a few months a have some connection issues with my Tesla...
Are there a actually double receptical out there??? I have a 60amp capable cable and need to feed 2 30 amp devices.
Thank you again for your video. Your voice is also very pleasant!
Thanks 😊 The Hubble grabs the full width on both sides of the prongs.
Are you sure those contacts are steel? I really doubt it. Put a magnet on them. I think they are tin plated brass, which is actually better than the others. They don't corrode as much.
Also I was trying to watch to see if the temperature ratings were different.
The Eaton is designed to make an extension cord. That is why the prongs are rotated 180.
Now I have my doubts
@@handydadtv It is too bad you cannot overlay corrections/clarifications to videos anymore...
The Hubbell 14-50 now cost $110 on Amazon. Hubbell makes the Bryant brand that is sold at Grainger. It is the exact same plug but sold under different brands. Grainger sells the Bryant one for $45.
I did a follow up video on that topic:
ruclips.net/video/R2cRNzSbw48/видео.html
@@handydadtv Good, it is a shame that sellers are getting greedy and gouging consumers. It is important to get a commercial grade outlet but $110 is out of hand. Good info to share alternative options.
Capitalism at work.
Leviton 14-50 (Home Depot) with half contact runs hot, charger will drop to 50% occasionally. UPDATE: I replaced all the Levitons with Cooper or Eaton (several locations). Feels cool to the touch even after several hours.
Thanks for letting us know
I found this to be true also. Glad I found this video. Using Leviton for over 2 years, randomly gets hot so was looking for a solution. Will try the enerlites as I leave mine plugged in always. Thank you for the great video and hard work
I just had my outlet melt the other day. Though I don’t know for sure cause I will be using an industrial outlet (either the Hubble or Cooper) to replace as they use plates to tighten to wire instead of screw as well as better materials for clamps. I like the advice to check heat at outlet.
@@notalenthere There's the Eaton (Cooper) 5754N industrial grade 14-50.
2 years after you published this, March 30, 2022, the Hubbel is now $159.99!
BTW, good practice to check heavy duty outlets like this after about 6 months for warmth and loose wires. As in power down, take apart, and tighten screws.
The 14-50 has become the defacto standard for EV chargers and that demand has driven prices up. I’m working on a video to talk about cheaper alternatives.
@@handydadtv Most smaller EV's (Leafs, Mini, that weird BMW, etc.) specify the NEMA 6-20.The 6-20 is also useful in home shops, for large saws, vacuums, pressure washers, etc. In this way, one outlet can do double duty.
Here is something you might want to point out: Using a NEMA 6-20, which is 240 volts, 20 amps, is more efficient than 120 volt, 20 amp circuit. 240 Volt AC power converts to DC more efficiently.
Tesla clearly shows this, if you compare a NEMA 5-20 (120 volt, 20 amp, now standard in some places in new homes) outlet with a 6-20 outlet (240 volts, 20 amps). The 5-20 provides 4 miles per hour of charging to a Model Y, while the 6-20 provides 14 miles per hour of charging, more than enough for many Tesla users (8 hour of charging provides 112 miles of charging, enough for most users, and less expensive to install. You have doubled the power (120 to 240 volts at the same current), yet the charging potential has almost tripled! The reason is multiphase power converts more efficiently to DC than does single phase.
In other words, installing at least a 6-20 can save you money over using a 120 volt outlet over a short period of time. The 6-20 is also easy to install, using standard 12 or 10 gauge Romex.
That’s a really good point! I just think Tesla owners go for top performance in everything, even charging. It’s in their DNA to spend money to get the best. Know what I mean?
I also think the majority of owners ARE NOT the kind of people to do their own electrical work. So if they’re hiring an electrician to run a new circuit, the labor is the most expensive part of the bill anyway. The cost difference to do 20-amp to 50-amp may be negligible.
5:50 The Ground prong should be in the TOP position, regardless if it is for EV, Stove, Drier or a Power tool.
I do not know why EATON put it at the bottom.
🤷🏻♂️
We had a 220v line installed in our garage this summer and I asked if they used Hubble. They used a Leviton, but if I start getting a lot of heat when I charge the car, I'll swap it out for a Hubble myself.
Let me know if you feel a difference.
Great video with a lot of useful information in there!
Looking forward to the mentioned installation video which into the details regarding the needed wires etc. Any idea when you'll do and upload that? Again, great work! 👍
Picked up the car in the middle of quarantine (ruclips.net/video/71-ots2yG2E/видео.html) and haven’t driven it enough to need fast charging! Hopefully soon.
If is smallest risk of fire by wall outlet, why put it in wall in first place? Have you lost some screws?
These days, I’m promoting the use of hard-wired chargers instead of outlets.
Great review! Hubble it is. Hubble's website says it can stand at 2,000V minimum.
Good choice
Thanks for the reviews. I ended up going with hardwired because of your review.
Good choice so you also avoid needing a GFCI breaker.
Would be good to have Leviton tech support weigh in on its receptacle...seems to me, if one installs with ground orientation up, adapter plugged in and fixed in place with clamps, there should be no issues.
I split charge off one receptacle to 2 EVs this way and have had no issues with the Leviton. Its UL listed to 50amps. I think something is very wrong when it doesnt hold up and Leviton still stocks them.
Hubbel must have had a nice dinner with Elon.
They don’t specify Hubbell anymore. They just require an industrial outlet.
Hi, thanks for all the information. I purchased a industrial grade nema 14-50 outlet. It require 2.465" diameter cover. However, I only can find flush mount cover with this size but can't find exposed work cover for this size. Could you recommend one for exposed work cover? Thanks!
Try Grainger.
One reason there aren’t a lot of reviews for the Hubble is that most people are buying them locally or through an electrician. So they are not buying the higher quality outlets from Amazon.
Good point
Also, are the contacts really steel just because they are silver colored? Could be just nickel plating, tested with a magnet?
I didn’t test with a magnet.
Thanks for all the educational videos you produce, they are easy to follow. With the Hubbell 14-50 being out of stock for many vendors, do you have any opinions on the Hubbell RR450F for EV charging? Thanks
The RR450F is residential grade, not industrial grade. As an alternative industrial grade, look for the Bryant 9450FR at Grainger. Much better price too.
@@handydadtv sincerely, thanks for all the good insight in your videos and comments
Watch my latest video for more on this subject. ruclips.net/video/R2cRNzSbw48/видео.html
Hi, What is difference between 2pole and 3 pole? Does it really matter? Please share your thoughts.
2 pole 240v will only work as 240v between the 2 hot poles, whereas you can get an adapter to convert 3 pole 240v to 2 separare 120v circuits by getting the 120v between either of the two hot poles and the neutral pole. 3 pole is required for some appliances that use both voltages, and RVs. 2 pole will work with welders and other equipment that needs only 240v.
Awesome Video, this is what I need. the Hubble cost is so high now. Ahhhhh $162 on Amazon now.
There is an alternative ruclips.net/video/XNOnVxI0tvk/видео.html
Nice review. Consider including whether outlet is UL listed or not.
I just ordered the Hubbell. I agree that you don't want to go cheap. I want to run the wires through a conduit with wires already going through it. It's only a 10 foot run from the breaker box to the outlet. To save space in the conduit, can I use 6 Awg wire for the red and black but 8 Awg for the neutral?
No all three should match. But you can use a 6-50 outlet and only need 2 conductors.
Do we need to bother using the neutral wire? I don't think it gets used anyway. Just curious. And thanks for the Hubbell tip!
The Tesla UMC doesn't use the neutral, so you can install a NEMA 6-50 instead of a 14-50 and save a little money on the copper. HOWEVER, I would still recommend the 14-50 for greater compatibility with RVs and other EV chargers in the future.
Check local electrical suppliers for the Hubbell... I've bought half a dozen of these for RV and generator hookups and paid less than $10 for that exact receptacle.
Wow I’m shocked. (Pun intended)
Hey! I have a 10-30 already installed in my garage workshop (with two 30amp breakers) - is it worth changing it out for a 14-50?
No. If you have a Tesla, just get the 10-30 plug for the UMC.
Great review but I could not find the link for the Hubble nema 14 50 you found and you recommend which is I seem to be by that I agree with you could you send me a link please it's really urgent that I get it as soon as possible as it possibly the price went down on Amazon so you don't see it. $68 as you said
The link still works, but the price has increased from when I published that video.
you are right if I get a tesla I will get Hubell nema too thanks for the video you are the best love any of your video since day one
Thanks so much 😊
thank you. in Spanish we have a saying "lo barato sale caro", the cheap ends up costly.
Well said
In English, “you get what you pay for.”
@@handydadtv ...or: "Pay now, or pay more later."
Wait, I thought 50 amp circuits only needed to be 8 gauge wire. Am I wrong, or is the guy in the video wrong? My dad told me that 50 amp circuits are 8 gauge.
www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-charts/
Why is the $70 better than the $15? Both look brass. Is there difference in plating that would make one endure more plug/unplug cycles than the other, or what?
Industrial grade NEMA 14-50 connectors are meant for high duty cycles (meaning: you can plug/unplug it many times). Standard connectors are only rated for a few hundred cycles at most, since they're meant to plug in a dryer once and forgetting about it. If you use them often, you'll wear and stretch the contacts which will ultimately means your connector won't stay put, but may also cause arcing.
Bottom line: if you plug/unplug your connector a lot, get the expensive outlet. If you leave your connector plugged in and maybe unplug it a few times per year, get the cheaper connector.
The Bryant 9450FR is 2nd place to the Hubbell and also made in the USA.
Good to know. Thanks.
The expensive Hubbell has fewer reviews because most people buy the cheaper versions. As an installer I refuse to use a cheapo device for EV charging. The cheap device is designed for short duration use. Not for the constant load of charging.
Thanks!
Great video. Me, I do not settle for the cheap ones. There is a reason Tesla recommended the Hubbell. I am sure that Tesla has done their research with NEMA plugs. If I am riding on my expensive investments, why would I settle for a cheap NEMA plug? Remember the old saying, "You get what you pay for." It is like, if I own an expensive Porsche race car, would I buy some cheap Chinese made tires for it?
Totally agree 👍🏻
Great video HD! Just added the Hubbell to my shopping cart on Amazon. Of course, used your affiliate link. Do you think it's ok to run the 6-3 wire for a 100' run? Did you ever film the installation of your 14-50?
100-foot run should be fine. I haven’t installed mine yet! Since making this video, I moved into a new house so I brought the Hubbell with me to install here when I eventually get commuting back to work! Stay tuned...
@@handydadtv Staying Tuned :D Looking forward for that video too.
I order to get a ul or csa listing all of the devices would have to certified to the same criteria. You missed the most important criteria in my opinion which is for use in the US that any electrical device be certified and tested by UL or other AHJ ie CSAus, ETL etc
Ok
I have AL prewire in the wall. I would like to use the Hubbell receptacle. In the video at 7.53, on your handwritten summary you say Hubbell "AL-CU wire", but on the left side screenshot "NEMA 14-50 Details" it says "Copper Wire only". I'm now confused, can I use the HBL9450A with AL wiring?
No. Hubbell is copper only. That was an error in the video.
There is an Eaton 15-40 industrial grade option (Model 5754N). It's almost as expensive as a Hubbell.
Don’t use an outlet. Hard wire.
@@handydadtv Will do, thank you! I've notified the electrician of the change of we wishes.
What about the Intertek 50 amp receptacle? It came in the outdoor RV outlet box I purchased
I have no experience with that brand.
The Hubbell has stronger contacts. I have seen cases where the cheap ones have melted. FYI the hubbell has a slightly larger diameter and needs a special cover plate.
Yeah I learned that the hard way.
The Hubbell is the only one made from bakelite which won't melt. All the other ones are starting to see failures in EV applications where the contacts heat up and melt the plastic housing. Your choice....
Exactly, it’s a personal choice. I now recommend hard-wiring a charger instead of an outlet because it reduces risk.
I wonder how much of the $60 price tag is due to the labor cost. If the same product is produced elsewhere, would the price be the same or even lower?
I seriously doubt they are assembled by hand either way.
"BRASS" vs Copper vs Aluminum
Brass is harder and springy - will return back to its original position. However it has poor ~30% conductivity. Expect it to heat up.
Copper is softer and will easily deform when used as a socket. Yeah I had one and it suck! But it has 100% conductivity.
Aluminum is in the middle, with 60% conductivity. It unfortunately corrodes and become a hazard.
There is one (extension) socket (forgot the brand) with copper plate contacts BUT backed by springs to make perfect contacts all the time! It makes for a great extension, my power tool wont go unplug even when yanked!
Thanks for the info.
Great review for all EV charger outlet. Very useful information.
Thanks
hey buddy where it says the Hubbell is AL-CU??? I believe it's for COPPER ONLY!
Thanks. I put a note in the video description with that correction.
If you use one of these that have screws clamp to the wires use ferruls on the wire ends
That’s a great tip!
Supply house sells other brands "like legrand" and the eaton version of the 14-50 you mount in a box
Thanks
Thank you for this video. You had talked me into the Hubbell until I saw the price in Canada of $176.61CDN.
Ouch 😳
Philip T, that can’t be right. Must be a decimal in the wrong place. $17.66 CDN?
wait...now I am confused....so, I don't HAVE to buy a chargepoint, Juicebox, etc to get LVL2 speeds? I can just install a 14-50 and use the normal cable that came with my tesla?
Yes. You just need the 14-50 adapter and you’ll charge at 30 miles per hour instead of 4.
@@handydadtv well shoot! I’m just going to have someone install a 14-50 outlet and buy the adapter…I don’t even see a need to spend the extra $600 on a third party charger
Good info. Does the Tesla use 120 volts when charging from the 14-50 outlet? I have a 6-50 outlet and am thinking of changing to 14-50 to match a relative's 14-50 for their Tesla when we go to visit. On the other hand, I could just get 2 adapters, one for each outlet and call it good...
6-50 only has two wires (plus ground). 14-50 has three wires so you likely can’t swap it. But I wouldn’t waste your time anyway. Just get two adapter.
BTW, both 6-50 and 14-50 are 220V outlets so you’ll get an equally fast charge from both.
Thanks!
This is great info, thank you! I will let the electrician provide the 6/3 wiring but would like to order the Hubbell 14-50 receptacle and 50A breaker in advance. Any advice on specs for the breaker? I was going to go with Square D but single pole? Double pole? Etc?
Needs to be double-pole and it needs to match the brand and type for your electric panel.
Thank you!
Thanks so much! I'm about to install one of these for my Chevy Bolt.
Thanks
Which extension cord supports the 125V charging for Tesla? My electrical box won't support a Nema 14-50 50A without a whole new electrical panel at a cost of nearly $9,000
They’re not recommended, but any heavy duty extension cord will work. I’ve used a flat gray one made for appliances. Works fine.
+1 Hubble. Will install it soon. The leviton is junk, mine overheats constantly and that's only 32amp
Thanks
@@handydadtv Your welcome. It's a very useful video. The others look better then I thought actually.
Interesting. What wire are you running and what length?
@@stevejohnson6347 its the tesla recommend AWG size. Copper. Right next to electrical box. The Hubble stopped the overheating. Works much better.
My Leviton overheat also with 6 gauge copper will be changing it. Thanks for information
Love your approach and the value of what you present. We sold our house a year ago and are renting a nice house for a couple of years. When My Tesla Model Y arrives I will need to charge it.
The rental has old wiring coming in to the house and a relatively new circuit panel with lots of room. Unfortunately the panel is at the exact opposite end of the house. So, wiring a 50 AMP circuit would cost $1,500 to $2,250.
Next to the garage (inside the house) is a dryer with a 30 AMP outlet. I was thinking of having an electrician punch a hole through to the garage, put in a splitter and a 10-30 outlet. Cost about $200. ( we do laundry once a week... so being careful to not use both outlets at one time is no big deal to us). Your thoughts?
That’s a great plan and I’d do the same. You can schedule the Tesla to only charge at night when you know you’re not doing laundry.
Sounds like a terrible plan to me. Not only a code violation, so you would be doing it yourself, but all it would take is someone not familiar with the plan to do some laundry. Burning down the house isn’t worth it. How bout installing a gas dryer and using that line for charging?
UPDATE: our plan worked very well. Bought a new place to be near newest grandchild and had a 50 AMP installed (along with some other work we had done). Now I am curious about two related items. 1) new place does not have a garage (I bought a canopy from Costco $250) and car gets hot (even with canopy). So I find I am using air conditioner to avoid over heating and using heater in winter. Anyone know if this is bad for the car? 2) we have a condo in Los Angeles to be near other grandkids (parking is covered but even if HOA agreed, not sure it makes sense to have an electrician run line and install 50 AMP. Should I just plan on using Tesla Superchargers? Any thoughts?
I use overheat protection without A/C only. Max temp is ~110 in the car (I live in NJ).
If you get HOA approval for the outlet in the parking area, think about some way to turn it off so people can’t steal your power. Of course, that might instigate vandalism.
@@handydadtv thanks for the suggestions. I have toggled the overheat protection. I just feel squeamish about A) letting it get over 100 and B) not really understand the cars tolerances or what overheat protection really does.
Can I use 60amp breaker for NEMA 14-50 outlet ?
No
This is actually so useful thank you!
Thanks glad it was helpful
Only 40A continuous allowed through a NEMA 14-50, per code. I thought about the hubbell, but 6x the cost?
Watch this before you decide ruclips.net/video/HzcBZUPZXqA/видео.html
@@handydadtv Ehh. Not much actual content in that video. It would have been nice if he had at least done a resistance check from the breaker to the outlet. He did no due diligence in actually understanding why his cheap plug failed. But thanks for the link.
Also, my electrician, when installing my sub panel in the garage, said to check the connections of the high amperage circuits, since they can come a little loose over time due to the cyclical expansion and contraction of the wires as they heat up and cool. It would have been interesting if the guy in the video had just pulled the plug out, cleaned the contact points and reinstalled the plug, to see if that changed his situation.
Hmmm. I guess it would be easy to tighten the screws at the panel, but will you remove the outlet to check tightness every year?
@@handydadtv My point is that if this is a common enough thing that happens that my electrician mentioned it to me, It might be happening more frequently than people think. It might be possible that the clamping mechanism in the hubbell receptacle alleviates this, but yes, I would and plan to do a routine check on this knowing that it is a failure mode for high current circuits.
Thanks. I might use this idea for a video.
lol i bought the same one tesla got in their showroom. that white plastic one. if this video was out last year. i'd probably either get the black center one or the hubble
You don't need a 50 amp breaker for the UMC, nor do you need 6/3 wire.
The maximum draw of the UMC is 32 amps on a 40 amp circuit. Therefore useless to install anything over 40 amp breaker with 8/3 wire (even 8/2 wire will work for Tesla UMC but not with some other chargers). Code does not require 50 amp breaker for NEMA 14-50 outlet, minimum requirement is 40 amp breaker with 8 AWG wire. I would only use 6 AWG wire if I had a really long wire run (over 50 feet), to reduce voltage drop over long distances.
Thanks
Can I install the Hubbell outside ? If so, can you recommend a waterproof box?
RV parks use 14-50 outlets, so I’m sure you can get an outdoor enclosure for it. But probably need to get that from an electrical supply, not Home Depot.
Thanks
E-vehicle charging is a high demand job, it will use the devices full capacity for hours on end... it makes no sense to skimp on this one-time cost.
I was planning to install my plug upside down so the ground prong is down until I watched this video. It says Tesla asks for the ground prong to be up. Is this a must and if yes why?
The adapter plug has the ground pin in the opposite direction of the cord. If you hang the Tesla charger down below the outlet, then ground pin goes up. If you attach the charger to the wall above the outlet, ground pin goes down.