Small Engine Performance Mods | How To DOUBLE Your Engine Power!
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- Опубликовано: 2 июл 2020
- I'll show you some of the best small engine performance mods you can make to your Predator engine, Honda clone, 212cc, 79cc or other small engine. This is a list of my top 5 favorite small engine mods that will add big power to your go kart, mini bike, drift kart or other small engine project! These small engine modifications can be performed by yourself with just some simple tools. All of the performance parts I'm using came from www.affordablegokarts.com. You can also purchase a complete stage 1 and stage 2 performance 79cc build from Affordable Go Karts if you do not want to do the work yourself.
Hi Flow Air Filter-
affordablegokarts.com/collect...
Valve Cover Breather-
affordablegokarts.com/collect...
Hi Flow Muffler-
affordablegokarts.com/collect...
DIY Intake Manifold-
affordablegokarts.com/collect...
DIY Header Kit-
affordablegokarts.com/collect...
19mm Carburetor-
affordablegokarts.com/collect...
18lb Valve Spring-
affordablegokarts.com/collect...
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I can’t believe no one has pointed out my (easter egg) grounding to the rubber valve breather yet 😂
i was like wtf
@@northerndirtperformance 😜
@@DirtGearTv Great video tho!! very helpful as im looking to get into pitbike racing next year!
@@northerndirtperformance Hi from New Zealand... could you be kind enough to pick me up a pitbike/Minibike racing rulebook & post it down to me in NZ ?? I will pay someones costs to help me out !.... this is Genuine. Trev.
@@DirtGearTv 😂😂😂 loved this video man but really disappointed when i went to your page there wasnt a continuation of this engine yet😕😕 please consider uploading one soon please? I know you didnt get as much attention with this vid but i think if you posted a vid about the performance after upgrades it would bring not only more views to this video but also to your channel. Love your videos btw! Not a hater! I know "opinions are like a$$holes but" i would love to see your channel grow and figured i would give a tip that may or may not help much lol
Pro tip. some 1/4" rod with a slot cut in the end. cut a strip of sand paper and put it in the slot. Put the rod in your electric drill. Cheap as and effective for porting and polishing aluminium heads
Only polishing alloy heads,not porting them...the sandpaper flies apart & it needs to be wet n dry paper: been doing it since the early 1970's. Trev NZ
Nah, that's not a good way to do it. Don't cheap out... But some proper cartridge rolls, and thank me later.
@@davelowets I have those too, the sand paper and rod gets way more use
@@tortron Then you're doing something wrong... A drill isn't fast enough to do any real work, in any amount of time, and a piece of sandpaper in a real grinder will shred itself to bits in no time, before you get any material removed. I've been there, and done that. Never again...
Now here's a REAL Pro Tip: Save yourself the frustration, and buy the proper tools for the job.
@@davelowets you are not using it for hogging out material, it's the last step. Works great expecially on aluminium heads. Great to have all the tools and be able to pick and choose what you use, I have them, rod and sand paper in a drill still gets used, does a great job removing casting marks and blending. Use a 1/4" rod and it can go in your die grinder when you get one. . Dirt cheap and actually also great for someone to work on their first head with
Professionaly speaking: this is 1 of the most informative & down to earth how tos I've come across.Just tell people other than your sponsor where they can get parts etc.Cheers Trev New Zealand
I'm so glad You made this video on this engine. I've been waiting on a video like this for years... Thanks Bro.
Bro this is awesome been working on powers saws tuning and porting and modding and getting back into these small four strokes very well done were do I sign up for class love it bro helped me considerably
Solid video man. Love to see the 79 predator instead of the damn 212. I think it's super under rated because the size diff between the two is significant
Small block Chevy 350 engine: like belly buttons, everyone's got one, the 212 brain dead engine...need proper spares that Harbour Freight don't have ? PM me...Trev New Zealand 🇳🇿
@@trevinskiking2165 Do you have spare parts for the 79cc?
@@25survival Hi moonshiner , not at hand, they are on the water, but I am in contact with the firm that makes the 79 & 212 & I asked what if someone in the States wants to buy something & the guy was really helpful, as there's a vaste array of parts,not cheap compaired to a Honda Parts supplier, but "NO problem: I can Dropship the parts" & cuts out 1 freight component to me by being obligueing enough to do that...but the selection would make your eyes water.
PM me if serious & Genuine...I'm in a wheelchair & do this to pay for insulin & get kids on bikes etc.
I'm experienced at parts sourcing & exporting to good ole USA. But chase of Covid our post rates have gone up alarming..but can get new blocks etc.
Cheers from NewZealand(South Pacific)
@@trevinskiking2165 not sure how to go about pming you, do you have social media or an email?
@@25survival He’s trying to scam you my guy.
Great tips for the DIY, And JB Weld to the rescue.
Intro got me . The test bench ........ glad you’re good
I'm about to have a Fully built 79cc Preddy. About 7hp. She's about 5.5hp now and on my Stand Up Scooter 😁 Blood Thirsty.
I just put one on a mini bike called Microbikology. It's coming along rather well considering the displacement. I hit 22mph using a jackshaft setup from BMI. I'm 5'11 235 😏.
Update....28mph!
@@fatbuddycat so my kit for my 79cc fits my 99cc I'm working on the stage 1 kit pipe and air leaving stock internals for now I opened my kit noticed it had a flywheel 18 springs and a cam and copper gasket not seeing a rod I'm guessing they don't make one?
@@heathenprojects2639 they don't. The flywheel is the big one. These engines aren't as abusive on themselves at higher rpms. I have that copper gasket but I ended up with a .035 mill, 3 way valve job, porting and used a stock gasket. I run the pz19 carburetor on there with 22 pound springs.
I would definitely change out that flywheel to billet just because that stock flywheel won't last long with the upgrades and will detonate eventually other than that awesome vid and I too followed ur port abd polish and made a significant difference in my 224cc pred so thanks.
No it wont. Blocks of iron dont just explode because they spin a little faster. They blow up when they spinn way too fast in a motor not put back together with proper clearance and torque. "Slop in the shaft"
A $20 tachometer might be a good investment!
I don’t believe I’d be hanging on to that flywheel cover after the first close call. At least step out of the line of fire. Any idea where to get performance parts for a Honda G100 k2 or clone?
You have more faith in J-B Weld than I do
Do you actually run that muffler for normal riding? It seemed very quiet. Where can I get something similar for my 212?
I was sure happy to see a flywheel blow up. Been wanting to witness that for a while. Thanks for wrecking a flywheel for us.
Great vid, just what I was looking for. Planning on doing the same thing to a 79cc Lifan, for a motorized bike. I even bought the same carburetor a couple weeks ago. I have heard that the 79cc Lifan and 79cc predator are very similar other than the angle at which the engine sits.
The phatmoto motorize bike comes with the lifa 79 most people swap them out for the predator 79 and 212s.but honestly a 79 with carb upgrade ,removed governor upgrade valve springs and good gear ratios will be good
you better upgrade your flywheel on a lifan if you remove the governor. It will be hella more bad then this guys flywheel explosion. Lifan like this motor is only rated for 3000rpm with governor on. remove it and the motor can hit 5k easy. along with bearings and fly wheel blowing up easy as well
when i modded my 79cc predator about 6 years ago there was no after market parts for it but i am a fabricator so intake and exhaust was a breeze . only problem it has is valve float but it sounds wicked.
Working on an intake manifold & Carb package & Header for this Engine. T New Zealand 😎😎😎😎
PM me if you want either or other stk spares that Harbour Freight don't carry.Trev New Zealand 🇳🇿🙃
you can fix valve float with heavier springs.
So put some springs in it for $20... 😕
Happy to subscribe my friend.❤
You need to make a Video on "HOW TO MAKE A PREDATOR INTAKE MANIFOLD" save us some money and teach us so that we can subscribe 😉
I can do that, maybe put together a video on several common diy engine accessory mods
@@DirtGearTv please do so Thank You
@@DirtGearTv How to cut a pair of flanges & a piece of pipe & weld them up & an exhaust header pipe & it's flange with welding (& the B & S threaded muffler you are using for convenience ) Trev New Zealand 🇳🇿
I wonder if you could find any cheap roller rocker arms that would fit. These would some great mods for one of those 79cc Phat moto bikes.
Love AGK they have everything you need for the p79-p212 and the tillotsons
Yes, yes they do!
@@DirtGearTv some what random question... would you happen to know how or if its possible to hook up a power generator to a p79? Mostly for just a headlight but having enough power for a full street light kit would be awesome..
I have a "2020 phatmoto rover" a motorized bike that im fully rebuilding and upgrading running a p79 built out about the same as yours. I am running a modded "E.T. power" LED light it is bright sure but i want a retro/cafe look light cant find a good one thats rechargeable battery powered
There are generator kits that can be run by pulley, but with the limited output on the 79cc im not sure id go that route. I know you can buy charging coils for the 212 that fit under the stock flywheel. I don't think the 79cc is setup to mount these under the flywheel but the same coils could probably be mounted around the outside of the flywheel. Not sure how many watts output you'd get but it would be a cool experiment
do you sell ready to go motors ? Looking to upgrade the motor on my Phatmoto with the upgraded predator 79cc
Чувак, тебе явно повезло! Хорошо, что кожух не пробило! Я свой раскручивал то держал ногой в строительных сапогах! 😂
is the head springs rockers and pushrods able to be used from 212??
Did u weld those pieces back on the Block?
What oil do use to brake in your motor?
What makes you think you're now making 7hp? How do you know? I don't see that big a gain without a cam change.
I'd love a video on Honda GX270's and the like! I've got one just sitting waiting to make good power.
Cool, Ill look into it. Even though the engine layout is going to be a bit different, Id do the exact same mods on that engine as this 79cc. You could probably get a solid 20hp from that engine with these mods and a cam!
At least the Honda Engine has an oil pump & pressurized oiling system so you can go to town making HP at least 😇Trev New Zealand cheers
Can you tell me if the built right? Amazon 3 horsepower is the same as the other 79 c, c's, including yours.
After tie governor was removed did you tap the hole and use a bolt or use a properly sized sheet metal screw to seal the hole?
I believe It was a though bolt and nut
Hello,why at 14:25 the engine is damaged? Why did you modify the timing key,right? Thanks,sorry for my bad english.
The flywheel came apart, so use a large gap like 40+ thousands or replace with billet. The timing key was modified to advance the timing about 10 degrees. The timing advance was not the cause of the engine failure, the timing advance is a safe mod to do
Didn't see it in the vudeo, did you plug up the hole for the govener arm?
I did, thanks for pointing it out. I was trying hard to include everything but the video was getting long so I must have cut that part out
the trick for me was a better head & gasket
matched intake & exhaust ports by grinding both open and then sanding followed by a final buffing which leaves a mirror like finish.
I made custom gaskets from scrap tin I had left in a roll from a previous task and it worked like a charm.
Then I upgraded my ignition coil & spark plug.
Then I tuned in my carb whih I customized the intake port of as well.
The china doll engine loves to be carb tuned in
to the air fuel mix aka ratio
and the pin in it from stock I never removed
I just used a flat screwdriver to fine tune the the one already inside.
With my mods I clocked on a straightaway surface from start @54 mph
and with a different sprocket setup Id probably get more top end speed
but I like the torque in the mid range area that you dont lose that much speed with.
Remember the larger your sprocket it
the more initial acceleration will be present as the able torque that is also there on uphill angles.
The smaller your sprocket
expect less take off less climbing power/torque or pull based all on physics under the dynamic of a power source applied.
It gets tricky and for me the best for my life is based on the roads nearby my home
they are super rural and just got paved from rock/dirt FM roads to now newly ride worthy for any Huffy-Davidson you build
Just make sure you buy parts from a good source
and not Bikeberry.
They are pride stricken on their price as much as they are stuck on their service which is lips as far as I can tell this far.
Stay safe
make sure your BRAKES WORK! or youll have scars like me for life.
Regular bike brakes are NOT for added power
so make the upgrades to the stopping ability
the bike can have and enjoy your speed and power
never stop experimenting!
stay hungry yall!
Great video
good experiencing and knowledge is baseline keys to the kingdom!
Polish to mirror finish I. The intake is not a good thing .. if it's to add kick you loose swirl .. remember .. it air and fuel and the better it is atomized the better it will burn
.. port matching helps tho because it makes for smooth transitions between areas in the fuel path.. other wise
. It's like people going into a store and hitting the door jamb on the way in
Gearing is simply 5he amount of work you are asking of tbe engine and the amount of time you are giving it to preform said work.. if you let the engine . Make two revolutions. For one revolution of the driven tire .. vs one revolution of the engine for one revolution of the tire .. 8ts the same work .. but you are asking only half as much of tbe engine because you give it twice as much time to do it in ..
Digging around in a carb venturi is a horrible idea...you don't "port" a carburetor.
I think if you were to put a degree wheel on your flywheel, that you'd find you've probably advanced it a lot more than 10°. I would guess that you've gone as far as 20°-30°. The easiest way to check is to print a degree wheel the diameter of the flywheel and mark somewhere on the engine how far 10° is. You can then index your flywheel accordingly.
What should be the value lash.
I would also suggest aluminum welding the compression section of the head for even more compression.
i would look for a domed piston and plastiguage it to the head and grind it out till the valves dont hit it. Small pistons are cheap as. Although thats me saying that when i dont have a TIG welder. Once ive done all the crank, bore, and valve mods to my motorcycle modding the combustion chamber will be one of the few things left
Gaining compression is easy .. the problems start when you. Have low octane fuel .. .. Octane is not a sign of more powerful fuel .. all it is is. A measurement. Stating t h e stability of fuel.. high com o reason makes fuel unstable so now you have to star fooling with ignition timing and combustion chamber quench.. ..quench is the shape of the chamber and it can and dies affect .. the burn ... it's not an explosion
. Ofbth3 compressed fuel and air
It doesn't work like that in a flathead...
It's not just as simple as just "weld up the chamber", or "throw a dome piston in it" for a flat head. The more you fill up the chamber, the more you block off and disturb the airflow characteristics of the intake stroke. There's a REALLY fine line between doing good, and doing very bad, when playing with the combustion chamber on a flathead.
Is there any other company that makes a flywheel for the 79cc predator engine?
Did you use stock flywheel key for billet flywheel or put in the advanced key?
You can purchase offset keys to add more timing. I cut down a stock key for this myself
Any links to the follow up video?
Forged Iron crank and rod would be better for durability, especialy for that engine that care bout torq in low to mid RPM
would be nice to
Didn’t you vac up the shaving when you shaved off the intake to Mach the head ? Think that would suck into the engine and boom 💥
why dont you move the magneto plate on the flywheeel instead of modifying the timning key ?
Glass is a smooth surface for those looking to DIY the head surface
How bad were the internals hurt when the flywheel tore shit up? It didn't sound to good after the flywheel replacement lol.
No internal damage. Just the flywheel making a ruckus 😜
Do you use that oil to break in your motor? If not what do you use
This may sound strange but I like to use cheap conventional oil for break in. The reason being you want a little bit of friction to seat in oil rings and cam contacts points. I’ll run for an hour or so on cheap then afterwards switch to a higher zink content oil with flat tappet cams 👍
awesome video. I have the same engine and stripped the 2 bottom crank case bolts and was wondering if there was enought room in the thread to heli coil it or whatever might work someone said use sum jb weld lol
heli coil is great but I don't know is there's enough room for that. I would probably just go up a size or two with a tap and re-thread it for larger bolts
@@DirtGearTv okay nice I'll try that it won't hurt cuz I can always get a new 1 for cheap it just sucks bc I have not got the life out of my parts I had to get for it and I would like 2 get the 212
@@youngchap4941 well, think of it this way: you now have spare parts!
@@TheDustyShredder hey i ended up just rethreading the threads i got a little cheap set from walmart this little predator engine is still going strong lol
@@youngchap4941 that's great to hear! Mine is too, and I'm looking at significant performance mods to get my 8 speed shifter up to 55 mph. At the same time though, I've got a 198cc duromax electric start engine I'm wanting to put on a bike with a 5 speed motorcycle gearbox, but I can't seem to find a frame that will fit the beast. My estimate is that it'll hit 70mph or higher, and I want to have it on a chopper bike so it's not so twitchy.
What is the approximate percentage of increase in power with your mod.
how do you get to the links for the parts used?
wasnt even revving that high when the magnet broke thru the screw hole/came unglued? i wanted to take the magnet out and re epoxy it after grinding the back of magnet and the face of flywheel and cleaning it with alchohol wipes for a FIRM BOND with the epoxy, but cldnt get the screw out... without damaging it. so gave up on that idea. superglue around the edge, for what good that is? as the $165 billet flywheel puts it in the 212cc price range
That should be fine, I think it needs a larger spec clearance than recommended also
I had a rod break on a mini bike before part of the rod came out so violently it landed in the neighbors yard. I wouldn’t be Reving the engine like the being so close to it
can you tell me the heavy duty valve spring part number or what size and where to get it at?
These parts are listed in description, or if you goto affordablegokarts dot com
@@DirtGearTv where is the description? I can't seem to find it
same thing happened with my stock rototiller engine magnet exploded and took the coil right off the block with it
that timing key blew this thing up
No it didn't... The crappy stock flywheel simply blew apart.
@@davelowets the stock flywheel never fails when the engine is used as intended, remember that this engine was build for 3600 rpm. I've personally gotten my stage 1 with the governor still installed up to 4750 and it's help up fine.
@@mikhailjairnisbett441 So what?
Can you tell me what my problem is? I did everything you said but it doesn’t move under its own weight and it just dies when it gets going
dial in your carb
What's the name of the music in this video. ( 2:13)
Why doesn't anyone ever mention the correct fuel to put in tank for engines. Great video but I would highly suggest an engine stand not a good idea to turn on an engine without it being stable
What fuel to use is determined by the compression ratio. When running the stock engine there is no need for a special fuel. Regular 87 octane is all that it needs. Running a higher octane is needed when the compression ratio is raised.
What do you guys think. Predator 79 or Huasheng 144? For a 1940s Hiawatha bicycle. I’ll cry if the bike gets ruined because the engine was too powerful
Old bike steel.are tough as hell. A 79 be fine
Check out my tutorial on a predator 79..i have it gear 12:1 not the best of anything but one thing it didnt go boom .
K Lucifer Any thoughts on a manual clutch? Seems pricey but I keep seeing the same gearbox.
Is this going in a bike? Do a video on vertical mounting:):)
@@st.paulmn9159 those manual clutches are out of stock and why vertical mount i mount mine horizontally
K Lucifer looks are hot
When will u make a nother video of the built engine
The dune buggy engine has even taking up all my free time. Soon i’ll be able to focus on other/new projects!
Where's the follow-up vid that you said you were gonna do showing the prformance difference between stock and mod?
I've got the engine on the RC rascal but i'm considering doing something else with it 🤔 Any ideas?
Couldn't you have turned the stator coil the other way instead of compromising the structural integrity of the Woodruff key? Just asking.
The keys don’t really lock the flywheel, they are pressed on so there really isn’t much stress involved. I’m not sure if reversing the stator would advance the ignition but I do not believe it does
@@DirtGearTv I'm not sure about the how the setup is on this specific bike, so can't be sure. But isn't the position of the stator wrt the point on flywheel during TDC what decides the spark timing?
Great video but Ebay and Amazon have the billet flywheels with adjustable timing without messing with the key the go kart company's try to resell them adding their 40% markup
Can you share a link? I can easily find predator 212 billet flywheels but not for the 79cc
@@srcobra50 to be completely honest it won't be cheaper to go with the 212 anyway because it like the 5.3 chevy engine has lots of more parts for lower price
@@meoff1969 yeah I know. Was asking since I got a 79cc on my wife’s mini bike just don’t want the flywheel to explode but it still has the stock valve springs so it probably won’t rev that high. I’m with you on the 212, I got a box of stage 2 parts ready to go on one. Just need to figure out which kart or bike to put it on
@@srcobra50 images.app.goo.gl/rBEqbXYY2GB7NYPc8. Is the picture I saw but not sure if they sell them anymore
@@srcobra50 I also have a small Honda clone (G100 k2) on my wife’s mini bike. I’d LOVE to find a source for a billet rod and flywheel, but can’t find them anywhere. Would you let me know if you do?
I exploded one of the aplastic fans on those motors but never blew the magnet off like that
What web site is that ?
I dont get that thing about grinding the timing key. Yeah, I understand OFFSET keys, like an offset bushing on a timing chain. But if ya grind it thinner and put it in the original slot, wont it rattle? Wont the timing bounce around?
Donnell...it gives him space to rotate the flywheel in relation to the crank keyway...giving him some advance over stock if the flywheel is rotated then the nut snugged up.Any clearer now ?.Trev New Zealand🇳🇿🙃
You don't have to use a key. You can just use a degree wheel and set your timing and torque it down. It won't go anywhere due to the tapered shafts. The key is mainly there for installation reference at the factory so the flywheel is installed at the same static timing each and every time, no advanced engine building at the factory necessary.
No Donell...once locked down by the flywheel nut & some use of superglue & locktight etc once the flywheel nut is snugged home, the flywheel/crankshaft taper is enough to stop any way would play (hopefully) unless you crash & the Engine is Stopped abruptly.Any clearer now & for others ?.Cheers from New Zealand
Lol thinner key .. adds advance to timing by moving the. Ignitin timing a few degrees earlier is all it does .. earlier ignition timing .. allows the fuel more time to burn
@@jmangus83 You can3t do that... The flywheel WILL move around with no key.
Was ever any follow up of this video?? 17:10
Dude... your grinding on your intake with it assembled?....
15:30
Wow. Got to the flywheel failing and said, "Okay. This is what I'm not supposed to follow".
Did not find the follow up vid???
I was wondering why you didn't put a cam in it
Cam is good, just kinda stage 2 or 3 thing
Another great way to not spend a fortune on high zinc oil. Rotella T4
I've since learned that only polishing lightly on the intake is best. This motor actually benefits from fuel/air distortion created by turbulence. The reason being that it is such small displacement that most modifications to the carburetor will result in running too rich. The turbulence helps retard the flow so that the motor can catch up to the excessive air/fuel mix. Let it flow the best you can out of the exhaust. Also your best to run stock 196 clone springs to get the best possible torque curve while building rpm, lash them loose to .003 but keep the exhaust snug to grab that decompression.
So the carburetor is designed to adjust fuel for airflow so that wouldn’t create a rich condition alone. It’s also correct in that leaving a rough surface creates more turbulence and promotes better fuel atomization which leads to a fuller burn and better flame propagation
@@DirtGearTv yeah brother!!! Small engine science is cool!
0.003 in metric or imperial isn't " loose" lash by any means, sorry .0.008" would be....Trev New Zealand🇳🇿🙃
@@trevinskiking2165 .003 under extreme duress such as exceeding the motors rotational capacity leads to a larger lash during the working cycle. If it were a stock motor I would agree completely. After having more experience with this motor I have found .003 is ideal with 22s, 224 cam, billet flywheel and 19mm carburetor (jackshaft). My fastest on the torque converter was set with aluminum weights, white garters, yellow pulley and clone springs since the tav limited the rpm anyway. I'm getting better at this stuff and I do listen more. Always thinking about you and trying to better myself. Thank you for helping me to see my mistakes and shortcomings, sorry again!
@@fatbuddycat 0.003" imperial on the exhaust lash is tight, in 0.003 metric it isn't...ok & engines aren't built of rubber: they don't stretch that much more modified from stock & if your going that far you would have added a welded alloy block spine & studs so it's really just academic & don't forget a worked engine is going to run hotter so your clearances are going to close up...I'd be more worried about pistonskirt to bore clearance for example: something never mentioned in build ups. Trev New Zealand🇳🇿 PS I wouldn't run any of my exhaust lash as much as +0.003" thou cold...inlet yes, exh NO....
Can you build me one if i send you my 120cc engine?
Still waiting for the sequel
I know hah, I lost my testing area due to new construction. So I'm looking for somewhere new to bother my neighbors :-p
Yikes! This video has some really dangerous shit in it! I appreciate the effort and some of the knowledge and explanations for sure. I don't make videos and really respect people that put work into sharing their knowledge and helping. That being said, holy cow! That woodruff key mod is really scary, dude!
Lmao .. it's basic internal combustion engine stuff
.. they taught this same stuff in 5th grade where I grew up . 45 years ago .. we didn't learnn much .. in that class tho ... the kids I grew up with were rebuilding small block chevys
. By the 5th grade ... . True story .. gotta learn some wher tho I guess
The key is only there for indexing purposes. The taper is what holds it secure.
The same thing happened to me I just don't have the money to repair
Those springs are very off sized for a 79cc build. Stock is 7.8lb @12lb starts feeling like your starting a Harley. @18lbs you might as well toss you cam directly in the trash and save time reassembling lol. Plus you should be running 20w 50 with zink in a motor your about to abuse that is not designed for anything above 3500 rpm.
The zinc myth has been around for decades and is not a concern with good quality modern engine oils. Running 20W50 is understandable with an air cooled engine. However, what do the guys who race use? I bet they don't use 20W50 and some may even use a 20 weight. I use a good quality 5W30 synthetic in all my clones.
For the engine in this video I would run it hard then take engine temps and decide from there what oil weight I would use. My 196's don't run hot enough to need a 20W50. No where near hot enough.
@@Deucealive75 lol? How is using zink a myth rofl? Almost all non cat based motorcycle and musle car builds use it lol.... how is it a myth? Mythical oil is 10$ quart you should try it...
No camshaft, huh?
No rascal update, bummer
I think the 79 predator is faster than the 212, just the 212 has a faster take off
It's a matter of working with what you have. I doubt anyone is going to replace their 212 with a 79.
@@Deucealive75 ya I had the 79 then it broke so then I got my money back and got the 212 and then bypassed the govenor
No. The 212 WILL have more power period
9 months and still no video of this back on the scooter?
I wasn’t sure anyone had interest in this project 😂 It’s coming, just been trying to finish one thing at a time
@@DirtGearTv I’m definitely interested. I’m piecing together my build right now, so I need you to finish this lol
Why don't you bolt it down and that was cool when it broke
You know 1/2 measures avail nothing. That scoot needs a Mitsu 3 Banger.
TheGWP Now you’re just trying to get me killed...
Put it back in car!!!!
It is! i’ll get a new rascal vid up once the turbos done on the buggy 😜
11:58 lol what?
Why the hell tuned key
DARN LUCKY IT DIDNT TAKE YOUR HAND... HEAD OFF!!!!! BOLT THE MOTOR DOWN...... U GOT 3 FT OF THROTTLE CABLE SO U CAN GET AWAY FROM THE MOTOR IN CASE IT BLOWS UP
You know what? The company will probably never make billet flywheels for the public...I seriously doubt they will be selling them to the public. EVER. Meaning if they had them all this time they would sell them. But.. If they did, it would eat into their huge $500 dollar labor charge for tuning one of their motors they offer up for sale. So don't look for them putting their flywheels on the menu! Thanks for the info. I wanted to tune up my new 79 Preditor and your video came in handy. But since the thing will fly apart once it gets the extra rpm...OMG> why bother!
You are right on that AKG is not planning to retail them, not simply because it cuts into other profits but it has to be custom built. So when you buy their performance package your not only paying for the better parts but also the labor for the custom made parts like the flywheel etc. I think the cost is reasonable for what all needs to be done the motor "labor wise". And I know they build these up nice to be little bombs!
If you are not going absolutely crazy with the build like 6500rpm or less your flywheel should stay on. My tolerance was set way low and with the extra rpm it shorted the gap between the pickup and finally made contact. My dumb fault really, Mine was set to 30thou, I NOW know this needs to be 80 thou to air on the safe side. Good Luck!
@@DirtGearTv Hey thanks. That explains a lot to me. I can increase rpm via a second cable to governor linkage and then use it like a turbo boost, rather then cracking the governor wheel out of the block. Sounds good to me, I have already noticed at full speed on the engine I can pull back on the governor link and it explodes with power. The way I'm talking about exploring the governor usage would be a controlled BURN. Not all out and OH SHIT--then ALL HELL BREAKS LOSE. haha.
I actually just emailed them about getting a flywheel by itself, having already done a few mods and gotten a few parts (linkage for stock carb, jets, air filter, 18lb springs, etc), and they are soon going to have them available to the public. The flywheel is really the only thing I need apart from sanding the head down some more and doing a port and polish.
Good news you can buy one from ARC racing for 170$
@@DirtGearTv AGK is now retailing flywheels independent of any other mods.
DO NOT GRIND THE FLYWHEEL KEY. That thing is barely holding on to that flywheel. 100% that key is in the trash by now.
Wow you should know better than that. NEVER run a stock flywheel after mods, especially with heavier valve springs. You're lucky it didn't end up in your face. You should be more careful with what you tell others to do. Someone could get hurt.
I would NEVER RECOMMEND sanding down your head.
It doesn’t matter if your engine is upgraded, you have more risk of Valve Float at the RPMS you are wanting.
DO NOT DO THIS you’ll wonder why your engine failed and blew up because of something so stupid.
No boost. You are dead to me.
How bout you stop playing around with an unmounted motor? Then you act surprised when crap blows up! It looks hella ghetto now.😒
At least put it on the ground and put a foot on it
@@coreyguilfoyle3918 He didn't need to.stop being keyboard warriors & flaming.Trev New Zealand
@@trevinskiking2165 u buggin
@@coreyguilfoyle3918 No what is bugging ?? The motor is so light when you're experienced there's no worry , I've done it tons of times,. It's not a 212 Predator 😇T
Please...stop being a drama queen, it's light enough !.Trev NZ
My governor blew apart, parts got wedged in the compression release on the cam.
You definitely don't want to rev an engine unloaded that's what breaks the connecting rods and destroys the flywheels