Hi! I'm the creator of the Hero Me... Few things you didn't mention... Easier access to the fitting and PTFE tube, don't need extra screws, fusion 360 file included so you can create your own parts. To have the same level of results as Petsel's work is a achievement for myself!! He is my inspiration for all this! And for you a big thanks!!
Thanks for the design, I really like it. There are varying ideas on how it should be oriented to print, would you consider updating the description on Thingiverse?
Yes! I'll update the info! but the way you print it is really the best way to do it. As there are so many parts I didn't put the info online... but I'll do a PDF that I can update and upload with every attachment.
@@skysurferuk .... Months later, @skysurfer shows the world his creation... 5000 LEDs, all syncronized to various 3D printer processes... Never mind the CRAY sitting behind the 3D printer... LOL!
What a lucky coincidence, here i am trying to make the hard choice between the Petsfang and the Hero Me, and here you are making a video just at the right time to help me with the decision! ;)
I choose the hero me fan duct to print. Even though it's the only one I've printed I'm still happy with this fan duct. Placement is tricky and remember to only print supports on build plate. It will print inside the duct if it is set to everywhere.
Great video on the test. I did look at both and originally used the Hero v2 over the bullseye for the fan set-up athstetics alone. That design was funky with the separate piece to clamp on the extruder plate. I am happy with the the Hero me by far. Also, I printed it with the fan vertical mounts horizontal to the build surface to make sure to give them more strength against snapping when mounting. I got really clean prints using PETG from MatterHackers, eSun and high temp, low gloss PETG from 3DXTECH. Thanks for putting out such informative and helpful content.
Probably someone already told you this, but in a lot of your (very useful) upgrade videos, you print the upgrades in black, and since the printer is already black is difficult to distinguish them. Thank you anyway for all the help with the Ender 3 :)
@@TeachingTech I have no doubt, but when you have the opportunity to edit them out and choose to share them instead, it helps the rest of us remember that mistakes and failures are normal and happen to everybody. Learning never ends! Keep up the great work :-)
Glad you did this video. I asked last video for the hero me. Imo it looks better and performance wise it's seems really good. Will def print this one next
I used the original Hero 2 for a long time and it worked well. I wanted to upgrade to a 5015 fan, so I tried to print the Hero ME several times and just could not get the parts to fit. Although the Petsfang is probably efficient, it is not visually aappealing, like the Bullseye. I ended up using the "Smooth FANG" and tweaking the mount for the Ender 3. It was fun running it through your torcher test. Thanks for the reviews.
I ran the fan at 75%, starting at layer 20. It made it nicely to the 70 mark. The top of the 80 was smooth but the number was difficult to read. The bottom looked very consistent all the around. Overall it preformed as well as the Hero ME (5:12).
I like this one because it uses all stock screws. You dont need anything extra. Plus it looks better than bullseye. Downside is : those tabs that goes into base's slots are extremely thin and you can easily break it while installing. I broke them when I was trying to adjust the height.
Thanks for another great video. I think I am leaning more towards the Bullseye fan duct. It appears easier to print though I like the cable tie post idea on the Hero Me -- guess I could tweak the Bullseye to fix that. ;-)
Thanks for this! Been looking for a good cooling solution that's compatible with the direct drive mod. Decided to give this one a shot but had no idea what orientation to print in. This helps a lot!
You're right, half the fun is upgrades, that's what I got the CR-10 S4 for. BTW I printed some feet for it in TPU (3D Printz) and it's made a ton of difference, it's almost silent now.
Thank you for your outstanding test to show what works and what does not. Have you considered testing the Prusa R3/B7 slanted fan mount upgrade. I’m sure a lot of people in the community would like to know if it’s worth the work or not. Looks good and is suppose the lower the temperature around the nozzle but does it print better? Your overhang test would be great on a before and after. Thanks again, I enjoy your videos.
Everybody does the wiring wrong on the Bullseye. You have to slide the heating element through it then up and its fairly clean. Cooling fan wire is still out there though.
Hi ! Thanks for the great video! There’s a part of the video that you mention in letters to adjust firmware offsets and reset Z offset on first print. What do you mean by that and how you do it? Is only if I’m adding a bed leveling sensor or I have to do that anyways? I’m new ... sorry if this sounds silly hehe Thanks anyway!
I printed the Hero Me, but found it to be a little too tight around the heat sink of the hot end. It's actually pressing against the left side (as you face the printer) once installed. Also, the screws from the 4010 fan were too small for the holes in the base. I know they have a few versions because the screws changed, but I thought I printed for the smallest screws, I'm having to go back and look again to see if perhaps I printed the wrong version. Fortunately, it's a tight enough fit that screws merely need to act as "pins" to hold it in, but I still want to play around with this print to see if I can't get a perfect fit. It does seem to be printing a little better than the stock in the few prints I've done so far - I've seen less stringing for sure. I'll be happy if I can get a little more gap between the base and the heat sink, and be able to tighten the screws holding the duct. In both cases, it's the base that needs work, the duct is perfect.
I also found this, what an absolute bugger. I printed the STLs that were recommended on Thingiverse. Still, I was happy that I could slap on a Noctua 40x20 without any modification (plus a Traco TSR24120 for regulation - small, good quality and cheap, about 5 bucks - definitely recommended over Chinese buck boards). I tapped the main duct with M3s - four holes on each side, I just ran through them all with a screw - but the mating slots on the part cooling ducts look like they're designed for M2s. I ended up tapping the slot as well by force and then wiggling until I could tighten the screws into something. Similarly the blower fan didn't really fit, and I'm not sure there's any material for the screws for that to fit into. It's essentially a friction fit and I'm not super worried about it. Really I think this thing needs to be overhauled for a better mounting system. It works fine as a cooling fan, but it's needlessly fiddly.
I made the Hero Me upgrade this week on my Ender 3 and the print quality raised drastically with my cheap PLA. Now the hero me looks awful but makes masterpieces. 😂
What 5015 blower fans are you running? Im looking for quiet options. going to upgrade to Noctua fans for hotend and electronics box. eventually i will upgrade to your rear mount electronics box. i like the clean look and leaves plenty of space upfront for tool and hardware drawers.
i use the "Imagine That" fan duct on my cr-10, and it has a great improvement over the stock one. yes, it does need a separate fan mount for the hotend cooling fan, and it uses two 5015 fans instead of the stock 4010, but the difference is noticable in performance. Take a look on the model... ;)
what about to put big 120mm fan at side of printer, then bring some flexible hose eg fi20mm to the extruder? (sth like wires from mainboard)even plug to inlet there where fan goes in (i think about it), in 24V it can roates slowly (then quiet) and produce mass of airflow i think ive seen it before on YT
Hey, thx. Personally I can't see that I'll ever need any of these things (upgrades?). I do like the blue filament, and hope there's a link to it in the video description.
I love the videos and they are very helpful. I used your guides in attaching a bltouch to my ender 3. Are you planning on doing a Titan Aero guide in the future? I just picked one up and I am shocked at how little content is available to help me. I cannot find anything at all on wire connections. Either way, thanks for the great videos.
Hey Michael. When I print an ABS part with the Hero Me, even when the part cooling fan is turned off, the part always curls up from the back. Every part I print seems to curl in the same place and I found out the the heatsink fan is also blowing air onto the part from the bottom constantly. I use a PEI bed, 240 on the hot end, 110 on the bed and no part cooling fan. What can I do to stop that. Blocking the gap between the heat sink and the part holding the heat sink cooling fan only cause the heat sink to overheat.
So I am haveing a problem or missunderstanding. I have been looking up information on noctua fan upgrades for my ender 3 pro and it seems everyone is talking about how the noctua fan moves less volume(I checked and the data sheet promises similar performance at 12 Volts). So that got me thinking: Why is no one just using 2 Noctua fans in series? That should provide plenty of cooling. Sadly I couldnt find any fan duct prints for 4 coolers. I did measure the voltage on one of my existing fans and it was around 24.2 Volts, using the resistance I calculated that if everything goes well 2 12V Noctua Fans in series should behave like one 24V Fan but with way more volume moved. Is there something I am just missing? I would rather have 2 fans per one original 24V fan than use some buck converter.
A bit of a pain to print to be honest, but works really well. I had to open it up in meshmixer and add support there in order to get it to print correctly without a huge mass of support in the wrong areas. I like that I can use this one with my direct drive setup on the Ender 3 whereas The petsfang/bullseye I can't as the fan sticks up too high.
Use other version of this cooling solution (one piece) with stock cooling fan. Printed it from ABS, and have one problem, airflow guides are melted. I print ABS (same) 2 days and airfrow guides get melted from heat that produced from heated block. Prints are great, but construction not perfect (or not supposed to be used on ABS temperature).
There isn't enough space for the wires to fit between the lower piece that slides up. There's a grove for the wires, but they don't fit. They push the side fan out. The lower section slides far to high up as well, pushing the air right into the nozzle. If I drop it down, it's dangling so far from the top piece, that it's wobbly. And the side fan (yes, it's the right piece for the right fan), doesn't fit. It's too fat where the two lower screws connect. It looked pretty though. And all cleaned up. All I can guess from this, is that my E3 version, is slightly different than the design intent.
4010 blower doesnt fit to 4010_Pipes, it needs about 3,5mm to mount, but there is only 1,9mm and there is no space to modify that without damaging part, so just wasted filament.
So many versions of these mods. Hard to tel which ones work best. I like the Hero Me smaller design, but there are so many versions of this on Thingyverse, including a nice all in one print.
The model is called the bearded yell. You can see the details of me printing it plus get the link from description here: ruclips.net/video/-3Qgq34OAQo/видео.html
Actually I am a little disappointed with this build. Still have to give credit to the author of Hero Me. The time and effort that was put into this project is commendable but I found it to be an awkward build which took three goes before a satisfactory out come was achieved.The support was the worst problem followed by the fragile screw slots to connect the 2 main parts together. Tended to crack or break off altogether. OK it works well enough but would I build another one? Don't think so. The Bullseye I think is the better option.
My printer fan is so much quieter! Holy shit I can't wait to add the noctua swap next. My printers going to be almost silent considering I have dampeners already :D
Great video. Thank you. 👏They have been very helpful over the last couple of weeks since getting my first 3d printer. (ender 3) Would you be able to share the file you created with the supports? It sounds like you had to troubleshoot to make a good print. Being a noob all help is appreciated. 👍
The file is exactly the one that is offered for download on Thingiverse. However you have to turn around the object to the orientation shown in the video and activate "Generate Support" in Cura before printing. That's it.
Have you (or anyone here) had issues with the hero me printed in PLA? I had mine printed in PLA and last night had a huge failed print. Something was hitting the parts as it was printing and moving the bed, eventually falling off. I believe this was the Hero me fan duct, especially since it is completely warped after I removed it. Is it necessary to print it in ABS or PETG?
Ive had an issue with the HeroMe,... the wiring from the hot end, seems too "fat", and when I try to attach the fan/duct piece, the wires bulge outward so much that it pushed the fan away from the main assembly, and eventually, snapped the duct piece where the screw holds it on the wiring side, leaving the the duct to hang below the level of the nozzle, thereby making it useless. Is there some trick to this? I have stock Ender 3 Pro hot end wiring, as I said it just seems too fat to fit properly in the channel and allow for the ducts to fit properly,... advice? Thoughts? Comments?
@@XavierVaati I went through searches on thingiverse, and found www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020267, which looks to honestly have a more decent style for the wiring, as its INSIDE and not OUTSIDE, which, obviously should be fine since the heat shielding on the wires is whats causing them to be fat enough to not fit the HeroMe design haha,... MediaMan(the guy that now runs HeroMe after originator stopped) has a remix of this thing, but, Im not sure I like his remix due to the angle of the air aiming more toward that nozzle. I may try them both, but for now, Im gonna try the original thing I linked above.
also, shout out to Michael, for all the excellent work, information, and even inspiration! I wouldnt be where I am now if it wasnt for your excellent channel!
This video is now out of date and the link points to the old version which is not the one people should be using. The hero me V3 has quite a bit larger wiring channel and it's also much stronger: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917
Thanks for watching. I count a bolt as anything with a machine thread (eg. nut and bolt), and a screw as anything with a self tapping thread (timber screw).
This. I wouldn't mind seeing the petsfang 5015 vs the hero me with the 5015 go head-to-head. I've got a 5015 sitting just waiting to go on, I just haven't printed a duct yet.
I came to say exactly that. The bullseye and petsfang have different geometry to handle the different pressure and flow of different sized fans, and I find it hard to believe that the Hero Me can do both sizes at the same quality on one duct design. I'm always happy to be proven wrong though
are you still running the hero me? i had to reprint the fan pipes several times because they kept warping after a few uses. eventually gave up and went with something else.
I need your help the Stock Filament Fan is no fitting in the slot at all to thin and screw holes are not aligned with the ones on the fan. i have the new Ender 3 pro . can u help me with a better model?
Does anybody ever tryed to use a real powerful blower to cool down the print under the nozzle? I was thinking on using a silent bldc blower, preferably oversized so that it could be used at low speeds, and channel the airflow through a flexible hose into a duct in the printing head (allowing to install the blower away from the printing head). One could even use an air mass flow to control the cooling according to the linear speeds and temperatures etc... The blower could be something similar to the blower used in the quick hot air station, but with better performance. What do you think?
I'm new to all this and currently a bit confused. A 4010 Fan is 40mm square, 10mm deep, and that's the standard part-cooling fan (the one on the side of the hotend assembly) for the Ender 3? Is the 5015 fan an upgrade to the Ender 3? If so, is this a genuinely useful upgrade or just for those who think 'upgrading is part of the fun'? I'm about the printer as a tool, not as a plaything :) If the heater block cooling fan causes problems for print cooling, why is it there? Is it just to reduce the effective thermal hysteresis of the block and make temperature control more responsive?
When printing steep angles of overhang and bridging, you want the plastic to solidify the instant it leaves the nozzle. Otherwise it will droop and make for ugly prints in those areas. So upgrading cooling allows you to print more complex parts with no support material. The 5015 is a cheap commonly available blower and pumps out more air than the 4010. These upgraded air ducts attempt to place that cooling air at just the right spot to maximise the bridging and overhang performance. However with the use of support material you don't absolutely need the extra cooling to get a print, but removing supports can be time consuming and make for a less smooth finish.
@@BigJohnno66 Yep, I get the reasons for wanting part cooling and that a larger fan with deeper blades can move more air - what I don't get is a) Whether the 5015 is a straightforward upgrade for an Ender 3, and b) Why the block cooling fan, if it's leaking hot air onto the part we're trying to cool, is actually needed... The actual blades on the standard part cooling fan of the Ender 3 (assuming that it is the one on the side) are miniscule. Isn't there an alternative 4010 fan available that's more efficient? Maybe something like this? www.amazon.com/10mm-4010-Blade-Brushless-Cooling/dp/B007PQ0KL6 As I said, I'm new to this - so I will ask dumb questions...
The extruder fan is required to cool the "heat break", that is the finned alu block. That keeps the heat down in the extruder nozzle otherwise it would travel up and melt the filament in the bowden tube (or extruder for a direction extrusion head). A good fan duct should channel the hot air away from the part as best it can. I think the blower style fan is used mainly due to the smaller cross section of the outlet allowing it to easily plug into ducting. You could use a regular fan but you would need to funnel the air down to the size of the ducting. Yes the 4010 is a small blower, but it does a reasonable job. Which is probably why it comes stock on the printer.
Thanks John, awesome answers. If you print a design like this, a 5015 physically goes straight in, the only thing left is the plug, assuming the 5015 is also 24V.
does anyone have issues with heatresistance? Printed it in PLA and it just came of while i was printing PETG, will try printing it in PETG or ABS but PLA doesnt seem to work for me
Hi! I'm the creator of the Hero Me... Few things you didn't mention... Easier access to the fitting and PTFE tube, don't need extra screws, fusion 360 file included so you can create your own parts. To have the same level of results as Petsel's work is a achievement for myself!! He is my inspiration for all this! And for you a big thanks!!
Thanks for this great fan duct!
The Ender community is amazing!! so for me is a total pleasure!
Thanks for the design, I really like it. There are varying ideas on how it should be oriented to print, would you consider updating the description on Thingiverse?
Yes! I'll update the info! but the way you print it is really the best way to do it. As there are so many parts I didn't put the info online... but I'll do a PDF that I can update and upload with every attachment.
Does it fit on the geeetech A10?
"Modifying the printer is fun" I agree I spent more time tweaking my printer than actually using it lol
My old Solidoodle 2 was 80% modifying and 20% useful parts :)
LOL... this represents me too much 😆
Biggest rabbit hole, ever... Next... LED's... :-)
@@skysurferuk .... Months later, @skysurfer shows the world his creation... 5000 LEDs, all syncronized to various 3D printer processes... Never mind the CRAY sitting behind the 3D printer... LOL!
What a lucky coincidence, here i am trying to make the hard choice between the Petsfang and the Hero Me, and here you are making a video just at the right time to help me with the decision! ;)
Tried both and decided the visibility given by the Bullseye got the deciding vote. Both did the job well so thumbs up to both designers.
I choose the hero me fan duct to print. Even though it's the only one I've printed I'm still happy with this fan duct. Placement is tricky and remember to only print supports on build plate. It will print inside the duct if it is set to everywhere.
I made this very mistake
Great video on the test. I did look at both and originally used the Hero v2 over the bullseye for the fan set-up athstetics alone. That design was funky with the separate piece to clamp on the extruder plate. I am happy with the the Hero me by far. Also, I printed it with the fan vertical mounts horizontal to the build surface to make sure to give them more strength against snapping when mounting. I got really clean prints using PETG from MatterHackers, eSun and high temp, low gloss PETG from 3DXTECH. Thanks for putting out such informative and helpful content.
You are most welcome, thanks for watching and commenting.
I quite like the design of this mount. Compact, upgradable, and very straight forward probe mounting spot.
Probably someone already told you this, but in a lot of your (very useful) upgrade videos, you print the upgrades in black, and since the printer is already black is difficult to distinguish them. Thank you anyway for all the help with the Ender 3 :)
It's a fair point. I always have a colour combo for each printer, for the Ender 3 it's black. Not very useful for filming unfortunately.
I love that you shared that PLA print at ABS temps :)
I make plenty of mistakes, don't you worry.
@@TeachingTech I have no doubt, but when you have the opportunity to edit them out and choose to share them instead, it helps the rest of us remember that mistakes and failures are normal and happen to everybody. Learning never ends! Keep up the great work :-)
This channel is priceless. Thanks so much for sharing your insights!
Thank you. I'm running the Bullseye and very happy, but the Hero looks nice and compact.
Glad you did this video. I asked last video for the hero me. Imo it looks better and performance wise it's seems really good. Will def print this one next
Got the Hero Me installed including the Bltouch mount. Very happy with the setup. Keep up the good work!
I used the original Hero 2 for a long time and it worked well. I wanted to upgrade to a 5015 fan, so I tried to print the Hero ME several times and just could not get the parts to fit. Although the Petsfang is probably efficient, it is not visually aappealing, like the Bullseye. I ended up using the "Smooth FANG" and tweaking the mount for the Ender 3. It was fun running it through your torcher test. Thanks for the reviews.
Great post, thanks for sharing. How did it perform?
I ran the fan at 75%, starting at layer 20. It made it nicely to the 70 mark. The top of the 80 was smooth but the number was difficult to read. The bottom looked very consistent all the around. Overall it preformed as well as the Hero ME (5:12).
I like this one because it uses all stock screws. You dont need anything extra. Plus it looks better than bullseye.
Downside is : those tabs that goes into base's slots are extremely thin and you can easily break it while installing. I broke them when I was trying to adjust the height.
Well alright. Looks like I'll be printing out the Hero Me this weekend. Thanks!
Thanks for more helpful advice and testing.
cant wait to try it, all ive got left to print is the probe mount..... thanks for sharing
Thanks for another great video. I think I am leaning more towards the Bullseye fan duct. It appears easier to print though I like the cable tie post idea on the Hero Me -- guess I could tweak the Bullseye to fix that. ;-)
Thanks for this! Been looking for a good cooling solution that's compatible with the direct drive mod. Decided to give this one a shot but had no idea what orientation to print in. This helps a lot!
You're right, half the fun is upgrades, that's what I got the CR-10 S4 for. BTW I printed some feet for it in TPU (3D Printz) and it's made a ton of difference, it's almost silent now.
I had similar success on my Wanhao i3 clone. Modification of 3D printers sure is addictive.
Thank you for your outstanding test to show what works and what does not. Have you considered testing the Prusa R3/B7 slanted fan mount upgrade. I’m sure a lot of people in the community would like to know if it’s worth the work or not. Looks good and is suppose the lower the temperature around the nozzle but does it print better? Your overhang test would be great on a before and after. Thanks again, I enjoy your videos.
Thanks John. I was actually considering doing a video on simple updates for the MK3 since my one is still stock.
Why don't you go to next step and try the 5015 fan too? Maybe also with a velocity stack to see if it actually increases fan efficiency or not
Please test the fan duct BLOKHEAD. Looks very interesting. Thanks in advance!
Everybody does the wiring wrong on the Bullseye. You have to slide the heating element through it then up and its fairly clean. Cooling fan wire is still out there though.
Hi ! Thanks for the great video! There’s a part of the video that you mention in letters to adjust firmware offsets and reset Z offset on first print. What do you mean by that and how you do it? Is only if I’m adding a bed leveling sensor or I have to do that anyways? I’m new ... sorry if this sounds silly hehe Thanks anyway!
I printed the Hero Me, but found it to be a little too tight around the heat sink of the hot end. It's actually pressing against the left side (as you face the printer) once installed. Also, the screws from the 4010 fan were too small for the holes in the base. I know they have a few versions because the screws changed, but I thought I printed for the smallest screws, I'm having to go back and look again to see if perhaps I printed the wrong version. Fortunately, it's a tight enough fit that screws merely need to act as "pins" to hold it in, but I still want to play around with this print to see if I can't get a perfect fit. It does seem to be printing a little better than the stock in the few prints I've done so far - I've seen less stringing for sure. I'll be happy if I can get a little more gap between the base and the heat sink, and be able to tighten the screws holding the duct. In both cases, it's the base that needs work, the duct is perfect.
I also found this, what an absolute bugger. I printed the STLs that were recommended on Thingiverse. Still, I was happy that I could slap on a Noctua 40x20 without any modification (plus a Traco TSR24120 for regulation - small, good quality and cheap, about 5 bucks - definitely recommended over Chinese buck boards). I tapped the main duct with M3s - four holes on each side, I just ran through them all with a screw - but the mating slots on the part cooling ducts look like they're designed for M2s. I ended up tapping the slot as well by force and then wiggling until I could tighten the screws into something. Similarly the blower fan didn't really fit, and I'm not sure there's any material for the screws for that to fit into. It's essentially a friction fit and I'm not super worried about it. Really I think this thing needs to be overhauled for a better mounting system. It works fine as a cooling fan, but it's needlessly fiddly.
i really like the water test, very simply yet i havent seen anyone doing it, also running the hero here :)
Thanks for watching.
I started printing this big savage first thing this morning. Said it's gonna take 12 hours. lol. Cant wait though.
I would love to see the Hydra reviewed!
I made the Hero Me upgrade this week on my Ender 3 and the print quality raised drastically with my cheap PLA. Now the hero me looks awful but makes masterpieces. 😂
Re-print it !
@@RomainSCHWALLER I did already, but still don't know what screws to use to fix the part cooling duct to the main body :(
Nice review
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
What 5015 blower fans are you running? Im looking for quiet options. going to upgrade to Noctua fans for hotend and electronics box. eventually i will upgrade to your rear mount electronics box. i like the clean look and leaves plenty of space upfront for tool and hardware drawers.
I made it and so far seems to work nice. But it was real PITA to figure out how to orient that fan duct on Cura to print.
Agreed that is one area the instructions could be better.
i use the "Imagine That" fan duct on my cr-10, and it has a great improvement over the stock one. yes, it does need a separate fan mount for the hotend cooling fan, and it uses two 5015 fans instead of the stock 4010, but the difference is noticable in performance. Take a look on the model... ;)
That thing is enormous! I'm looking for something like that for my Tornado, thanks for sharing.
what about to put big 120mm fan at side of printer, then bring some flexible hose eg fi20mm to the extruder? (sth like wires from mainboard)even plug to inlet there where fan goes in (i think about it), in 24V it can roates slowly (then quiet) and produce mass of airflow
i think ive seen it before on YT
Hey, thx. Personally I can't see that I'll ever need any of these things (upgrades?).
I do like the blue filament, and hope there's a link to it in the video description.
x3d.com.au is linked and the exact filament is X3D-PLA-175-BLUE X3D Pro PLA
@@TeachingTech :D
I love the videos and they are very helpful. I used your guides in attaching a bltouch to my ender 3. Are you planning on doing a Titan Aero guide in the future? I just picked one up and I am shocked at how little content is available to help me. I cannot find anything at all on wire connections. Either way, thanks for the great videos.
I have a replacement extruder on the way, but it's not the aero. It does, however, interest me. I may well end up covering it at some stage.
Hey Michael. When I print an ABS part with the Hero Me, even when the part cooling fan is turned off, the part always curls up from the back. Every part I print seems to curl in the same place and I found out the the heatsink fan is also blowing air onto the part from the bottom constantly. I use a PEI bed, 240 on the hot end, 110 on the bed and no part cooling fan.
What can I do to stop that. Blocking the gap between the heat sink and the part holding the heat sink cooling fan only cause the heat sink to overheat.
So I am haveing a problem or missunderstanding. I have been looking up information on noctua fan upgrades for my ender 3 pro and it seems everyone is talking about how the noctua fan moves less volume(I checked and the data sheet promises similar performance at 12 Volts). So that got me thinking: Why is no one just using 2 Noctua fans in series? That should provide plenty of cooling. Sadly I couldnt find any fan duct prints for 4 coolers. I did measure the voltage on one of my existing fans and it was around 24.2 Volts, using the resistance I calculated that if everything goes well 2 12V Noctua Fans in series should behave like one 24V Fan but with way more volume moved. Is there something I am just missing? I would rather have 2 fans per one original 24V fan than use some buck converter.
A bit of a pain to print to be honest, but works really well. I had to open it up in meshmixer and add support there in order to get it to print correctly without a huge mass of support in the wrong areas. I like that I can use this one with my direct drive setup on the Ender 3 whereas The petsfang/bullseye I can't as the fan sticks up too high.
Liked and subscribed. Love your channel. Have you tested petsfang v2 vs hero me?
On thing I have noticed is the bullseye fan vibrates, so the herome is the best to me.
Great video. Will this work if I convert the Ender 3Pro to direct drive using the MDD kit from Printer Mods?
Use other version of this cooling solution (one piece) with stock cooling fan.
Printed it from ABS, and have one problem, airflow guides are melted.
I print ABS (same) 2 days and airfrow guides get melted from heat that produced from heated block.
Prints are great, but construction not perfect (or not supposed to be used on ABS temperature).
McPcholkin I printed my hero v2 in pla(melting point 180) and I used it to print petg (melting point 220) and had no issues
Maybe one of the silicone "socks" for your hotend will help insulate the heat if you don't already have one
@@six5ths already order couple, when arrive do a test again.
There isn't enough space for the wires to fit between the lower piece that slides up. There's a grove for the wires, but they don't fit. They push the side fan out. The lower section slides far to high up as well, pushing the air right into the nozzle. If I drop it down, it's dangling so far from the top piece, that it's wobbly.
And the side fan (yes, it's the right piece for the right fan), doesn't fit. It's too fat where the two lower screws connect.
It looked pretty though. And all cleaned up.
All I can guess from this, is that my E3 version, is slightly different than the design intent.
Bloody hell, for all the issues, so far, the test print is flawless. The bridging was absolutely perfect! I've never had such great bridging.
Wow. This thing is remarkable.
Please test the banta mount fan configuration
4010 blower doesnt fit to 4010_Pipes, it needs about 3,5mm to mount, but there is only 1,9mm and there is no space to modify that without damaging part, so just wasted filament.
What filament is used here pla+ or abs
Michael cheek out the "red squirrel " its on thingivers its bloody fantastic mate 👌
So when you change your fan duct do you also change the settings for prints? I've just started 3D printing and this is a mod I'd like to do. Thanks.
Great video. Just one question: how can you possible print that in 1 hour and 50 minutes when I get 7 hours and 40 minutes!?
Basically, depends on the thickness of your nozzle as well as thickness and printing speed in your slicer program
So many versions of these mods. Hard to tel which ones work best. I like the Hero Me smaller design, but there are so many versions of this on Thingyverse, including a nice all in one print.
Hey Michael,
What supports did you use and how did you clean them out of the duct? I am really struggling to get the last bit out of the tight angles.
Hello :D The text at 6:22 about the Z offset, is only if you are using a BL touch? Right?
the air flow from the hot-end cooler does not get on the nozzle and part? It is important for printing ABS plastic
Please make a reviews of the Hero me V. 2
Hey @Teaching Tech, where is the awesome dwarf bust in the background from? Would love to print that.
The model is called the bearded yell. You can see the details of me printing it plus get the link from description here: ruclips.net/video/-3Qgq34OAQo/видео.html
Actually I am a little disappointed with this build. Still have to give credit to the author of Hero Me. The time and effort that was put into this project is commendable but I found it to be an awkward build which took three goes before a satisfactory out come was achieved.The support was the worst problem followed by the fragile screw slots to connect the 2 main parts together. Tended to crack or break off altogether. OK it works well enough but would I build another one? Don't think so. The Bullseye I think is the better option.
My printer fan is so much quieter! Holy shit I can't wait to add the noctua swap next. My printers going to be almost silent considering I have dampeners already :D
I think I am going to steal your water test for the berdair on my reprap Wilson 2.
Please do.
Great video. Thank you. 👏They have been very helpful over the last couple of weeks since getting my first 3d printer. (ender 3)
Would you be able to share the file you created with the supports? It sounds like you had to troubleshoot to make a good print. Being a noob all help is appreciated. 👍
The file is exactly the one that is offered for download on Thingiverse. However you have to turn around the object to the orientation shown in the video and activate "Generate Support" in Cura before printing. That's it.
@@iamchr1spy OK. cool. still new. thank you! :)
Have you (or anyone here) had issues with the hero me printed in PLA? I had mine printed in PLA and last night had a huge failed print. Something was hitting the parts as it was printing and moving the bed, eventually falling off. I believe this was the Hero me fan duct, especially since it is completely warped after I removed it. Is it necessary to print it in ABS or PETG?
Ive had an issue with the HeroMe,... the wiring from the hot end, seems too "fat", and when I try to attach the fan/duct piece, the wires bulge outward so much that it pushed the fan away from the main assembly, and eventually, snapped the duct piece where the screw holds it on the wiring side, leaving the the duct to hang below the level of the nozzle, thereby making it useless. Is there some trick to this?
I have stock Ender 3 Pro hot end wiring, as I said it just seems too fat to fit properly in the channel and allow for the ducts to fit properly,... advice? Thoughts? Comments?
I too have this issue, but less severe
@@XavierVaati I went through searches on thingiverse, and found www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020267, which looks to honestly have a more decent style for the wiring, as its INSIDE and not OUTSIDE, which, obviously should be fine since the heat shielding on the wires is whats causing them to be fat enough to not fit the HeroMe design haha,... MediaMan(the guy that now runs HeroMe after originator stopped) has a remix of this thing, but, Im not sure I like his remix due to the angle of the air aiming more toward that nozzle. I may try them both, but for now, Im gonna try the original thing I linked above.
also, shout out to Michael, for all the excellent work, information, and even inspiration! I wouldnt be where I am now if it wasnt for your excellent channel!
This video is now out of date and the link points to the old version which is not the one people should be using. The hero me V3 has quite a bit larger wiring channel and it's also much stronger: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917
SCREWS bro they ain't bolts..... Thanks I love your tutes couldn't have fitted a BLtouch without you're easy to follow guide
Thanks for watching. I count a bolt as anything with a machine thread (eg. nut and bolt), and a screw as anything with a self tapping thread (timber screw).
@@TeachingTech That is basically the correct definition for each. You are right to call it a bolt.
And now test the best: petsfang with 5015 fan. 💁♂️👌
This. I wouldn't mind seeing the petsfang 5015 vs the hero me with the 5015 go head-to-head. I've got a 5015 sitting just waiting to go on, I just haven't printed a duct yet.
I came to say exactly that. The bullseye and petsfang have different geometry to handle the different pressure and flow of different sized fans, and I find it hard to believe that the Hero Me can do both sizes at the same quality on one duct design. I'm always happy to be proven wrong though
why is the front vent mounted in reverse? will it be an issue long time?
Can't get a suitable fit mount for tevo tornado's stock hot end. Any suggestions?
I’m using BantaMount did you tried that one??
Hi I printed this and am using the black screws to attach the vent to the base but it’s sort of wobbly? Is that right?
Could you please test too the other version of Hero me with 2 5015 fan.
What is the pin hole on the tower on the torture test when you zoom in, why is it there for?
How do you control the part cooling duct for you to perform the water depression test?
Hello I wanted to ask what bolts you used for mounting the fan duct to the body .Thanks
are you still running the hero me? i had to reprint the fan pipes several times because they kept warping after a few uses. eventually gave up and went with something else.
Still using without any issues.
I need your help the Stock Filament Fan is no fitting in the slot at all to thin and screw holes are not aligned with the ones on the fan. i have the new Ender 3 pro . can u help me with a better model?
hi what do you think about the CR-10 Fang? many versions exist even a modular one
Do you mean the petsfang ?
no, cr-10 fang or oem fang
@@CrAzYDr1veR Cool thanks for showing me that.
So, the Hero Me is the winner?
For me yes. I still have the Bullseye on my Tornado and it rattles a bit during printing which is annoying.
Can you share the gcode for the base? that seems to be the most challenging part to print
Printed the Bullseye in PETG
So do i need any extra screws for installing hero me or bullseye with bltouch ? I couldnt find any information on hero me thingiverse page
Does anybody ever tryed to use a real powerful blower to cool down the print under the nozzle?
I was thinking on using a silent bldc blower, preferably oversized so that it could be used at low speeds, and channel the airflow through a flexible hose into a duct in the printing head (allowing to install the blower away from the printing head). One could even use an air mass flow to control the cooling according to the linear speeds and temperatures etc...
The blower could be something similar to the blower used in the quick hot air station, but with better performance.
What do you think?
what material did you printed the hero me ?
im doing the Hero me gen 3 with 2 5015 blower fans
I'm new to all this and currently a bit confused.
A 4010 Fan is 40mm square, 10mm deep, and that's the standard part-cooling fan (the one on the side of the hotend assembly) for the Ender 3?
Is the 5015 fan an upgrade to the Ender 3? If so, is this a genuinely useful upgrade or just for those who think 'upgrading is part of the fun'? I'm about the printer as a tool, not as a plaything :)
If the heater block cooling fan causes problems for print cooling, why is it there? Is it just to reduce the effective thermal hysteresis of the block and make temperature control more responsive?
When printing steep angles of overhang and bridging, you want the plastic to solidify the instant it leaves the nozzle. Otherwise it will droop and make for ugly prints in those areas. So upgrading cooling allows you to print more complex parts with no support material. The 5015 is a cheap commonly available blower and pumps out more air than the 4010. These upgraded air ducts attempt to place that cooling air at just the right spot to maximise the bridging and overhang performance. However with the use of support material you don't absolutely need the extra cooling to get a print, but removing supports can be time consuming and make for a less smooth finish.
@@BigJohnno66 Yep, I get the reasons for wanting part cooling and that a larger fan with deeper blades can move more air - what I don't get is a) Whether the 5015 is a straightforward upgrade for an Ender 3, and b) Why the block cooling fan, if it's leaking hot air onto the part we're trying to cool, is actually needed...
The actual blades on the standard part cooling fan of the Ender 3 (assuming that it is the one on the side) are miniscule. Isn't there an alternative 4010 fan available that's more efficient? Maybe something like this? www.amazon.com/10mm-4010-Blade-Brushless-Cooling/dp/B007PQ0KL6
As I said, I'm new to this - so I will ask dumb questions...
The extruder fan is required to cool the "heat break", that is the finned alu block. That keeps the heat down in the extruder nozzle otherwise it would travel up and melt the filament in the bowden tube (or extruder for a direction extrusion head). A good fan duct should channel the hot air away from the part as best it can.
I think the blower style fan is used mainly due to the smaller cross section of the outlet allowing it to easily plug into ducting. You could use a regular fan but you would need to funnel the air down to the size of the ducting.
Yes the 4010 is a small blower, but it does a reasonable job. Which is probably why it comes stock on the printer.
Forgot to mention...I believe the only dumb question is the one left not asked :-)
Thanks John, awesome answers. If you print a design like this, a 5015 physically goes straight in, the only thing left is the plug, assuming the 5015 is also 24V.
Can you do ducts with a 5015 fan please
Most likely will do this in the future with buck converters.
What size bolt are you using to mount vent to ender 3
Hello where can i find the offsets for the non ducted bl touch ?
is ender 3 is better than anycubic kossel thanks ?
Installation wise which is easier?
Bullseye easier to print, Hero Me easier to fit.
Nice video! I also think Hero me it's little better than Bullseye. What about Bantamount? It's on Bantamount.com
Tried both and decided the visibility given by the Bullseye got the deciding vote. Both did the job well so thumbs up to both designers.
Bantamount looks similar to a Petsfang. Making an account on the website turns me off a bit but I'm sure it is a non issue.
yes.. u have to make an account because then they send the STL files to your mail with printing instructions.
💕👍
does anyone have issues with heatresistance?
Printed it in PLA and it just came of while i was printing PETG, will try printing it in PETG or ABS but PLA doesnt seem to work for me
Your videos are great, but a bit on the dark side, could you use more lighting somehow.
teaching tech - the australian Elephantman
What 3D program do you use. ?
I design with Onshape and slice with Simplify3D.
As usual, modifying your printer provides next-to-negligible improvements in print quality, butt nobody is here for that. We're here for the fun.
works for abs or pla only?
how about the bantamount?!
A lot of requests for this, so I will likely cover it in future.
Is there any for the ender 3 v2 ?