Bullseye fan duct tested on Ender 3 / Tevo Tornado
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- I have held off changing the fan duct on my Ender 3 Pro and Tevo Tornado until I could do some proper back to back testing. I took the chance to test the Bullseye and a simple vent ring duct.
To do this I designed a torture test file, inspired by the All In One micro printer test. The main body is lifted up off the bed to allow a wide and difficult bridge. There are four gradually tilted arcs, from vertical to 80 degrees, pointing up, down, left and right. The reason to see if a fan that only blows from one side is at a disadvantage. The final feature is a central spire that is raised above the rest.
My cooling fan torture test: www.thingivers...
Next test might have to be the Hero Me..
Ender 3 ring duct: www.thingivers...
Bullseye (part of PETsfang): www.thingivers...
What you need to print for Bullseye (Creality): docs.google.co...
What you need to print for Bullseye (Tevo): docs.google.co...
Bullseye installation animation: • Install the Bullseye
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#3dprinting #bullseye #ender3
This video basically convinced me to just keep the standard fan setup
Its not that hard. I just did it last nihht on my tevo tornado gold edition. Took me less than 10 minutes to install.I used all the existing screws from the original hardware. Needed no nuts either. I was able to bridge only 30mm with stock. Now i can bridge 100.
@DS 19 I believe it's ligther than the stock fan setup. It's just a few grams, the whole roller bracket weighs much more, and so does the hotend and everything else.
Very easy to install, just takes maybe 15 minutes. The prints for me took about 14 hrs (could do it faster, but not fast enough that I could do a print inbetween, so aimed at 6hrs and 8hrs), and cost $0,3. Doing an overhang test right now, and hopefully it'll give some improvement. On tiny model overhangs it gets bad immedietly with stock, I hope it cools well enough with bullseye that the quality doesn't degrade immediately.
I tried a standard mounted duct first, but that made results worse... From 60 degrees to 55 degrees, on 198c. Hopefully bullseye can put me to about 70 degrees.
Edit: test done, and the difference is HUGE. Bullseye at 75 degrees looks like stock at 45 degrees. Super easy and cheap upgrade, and the results are just insane. It does perfect layering up to around 67 degrees, after that I notice a difference in thickness.
@DS 19 Yea honestly I think it mostly for cosmetics and just getting a different look. If there is an overhang just use supports imo
@@redline6871 But supports also have downsides. You have to spend time removing the supports, which aren't always on a good position to remove. Additionally they will leave a worse surface and maybe some supports, if you haven't removed them thoroughly. Some minor point to keep in mind is that is does use filament. And my final point is that your print time increases (in my opinion heavily).
So even if you can upgrade the overhang angle just a few degrees, it nevertheless will have an impact on the aforementioned points.
(i hope that it wasn't sarcasm and i overreacted :D)
I just dont like the way these 3d printed fan ducts look. They are ugly and most are heavier than stock although I believe the bullseye is actually slightly lighter than stock. I personally will use stock cooling for most things but use the bullseye for prints where I need better cooling and am concerned about ringing.
Hi Michael, Thank you for taking all the time to do this comparison. After taking onboard all your input, I printed a Bullseye for my Ender 3 and fitted it the same time I put on the BLTouch. The only negative I have from the exercise is that the ducts limit how far forward I can print/probe to some extent as they hit the clips used to hold the printing surface onto the heated bed. I had to tweak the probe area as the default numbers resulted in the duct hitting the clips no matter where I put them. Even now, they are only just on the very edge. I'm printing a Hero Me at the moment and will try that one next.
Keep up the great work.
Great video and test. Thank you for investing the time to do all of these tests. Using the water dish to help us visualize where the air flow is going is a really smart move. This review is really helpful, I have been pondering which fan duct to use on my Ender 3.
Comparison from Bullseye to Vent Ring v2 was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for that.
Thanks for your research. I now will keep my standard cooling fan. Michael, You help me lot with some of my 3D printing errors. Please keep up the good work.
Thanks for taking the time to test this out! I'm learning loads!
I have that downloaded and was debating giving it a go… thanks for the help deciding!! 😊
Thank you for your videos, they were so helpful and excited to start printing and upgrading my Ender 3 I just ordered.
Wow that’s awesome! Thanks for putting in the time to gather all this data.
Thanks for watching.
Man, that google doc is a lifesaver. I was super lost which one to print!! Thank you.
really helpful review! I always questioned the effectiveness of my Petsfang Bulls-eye vent until now. thanks :)
I have added the bullseye to my ender 3 before this video came out and also previously had the circular one. The bulseye is providing much better results and my results line up exactly with these.
Brilliant! Thank you! Was wondering how much difference these make - great to see an actual comparison!
I wound up ditching the bullseye and going with the petsfang v.2 with the more powerful fan on my Ender 3. I had (and am still working on) bridging settings. Having that better fan seems to be a pretty decent upgrade, very easy to rewire . I only print pla, but my prints have been looking better.
Awesome video! Keep’em coming!!.
Thanks for watching and sharing.
1:46 - How surprisingly good the stock Ender 3 is!!!
Finshed printing the frame went to homedepot got M3 -0.5 x 10mm and M3-0.5x16mm got everything to fit now about to print the blower part im using the stock fans no mods for the Tevo tornado. Thanks for the video
Watched about 4 of your videos. Clear explanation and meaningful testing. Subbed!
Great video and comparison as always Michael! Thank you!
wow. thank you so much for doing this video. that must have been rather frustrating to print all of those and do this comparison test. i feel your pain. much appreciated!
That pile of plastic at the end just earned you a sub. Thanks for all your hard work 👍👍
i recently printed the "ring" part cooler for the Ender 5 Plus. the big issue with these coolers, is that they are so restrictive in terms of airflow, that half of the air get immediately bounced back. you can feel it if you put your hand next to the blower fan blades. the stock cooler, while not being directed and concentrated in any meaningful way, doesn't have this issue. the end result is that both end up being pretty comparable in terms of performance.
I don't have an Ender 3 but a Wanhao duplicator. I took the plunge and got a radial blower fan and it made a HUGE difference. The shroud was ring style. It's much louder but I can print 80 degrees no problem, and its perfectly uniform on all sides.
I have a Dulicator i3 Plus clone. I have bunch of videos on modifying it, including this exact mod. I agree it's way better.
My Bullseye print was nearly done by the point I found the video, glad you proved its usefulness 😆 Though I'm already very impressed with my Ender 3 Pro's bridging results. Compared to my 8-years-old Printrbot at least 😂 (glad that thing bit the dust recently 😁)
Thanks for the thorough comparison!
I've been using Petsfang with the 50mm blower style fan with great success. Only thing is that I'm cooling at 50% or else I'd encounter the dreaded thermal runaway phenomenon.
I've had to do that too in the past. A silicone hot end sock might help.
Great test, there are so many different fan mounts it's easy to get overwhelmed.
Personally I'm using the Bantamount on my CR-10 Mini and Ender-3. I had to install the silicone sock on the Ender-3 so I could run the fan faster than 40% though. My CR-10 has the E3DV6 All Metal with Silicone Sock as well.
I haven't really tested them with a torture test but overhangs and bridging seem a lot better.
Great info, thanks for sharing.
@@TeachingTech is it possible to add diamond hotend to ender 3 for multicolor 3d print
Excellent, well-planned tests, thanks!
Great work and great way to test the airflow under the nozzle, think i will have to borrow that idea to test on my cr-10s
Michel I printend mine in PETG. I added Extra manual support so as to get support under the horizontal surfaces without adding support inside the model that would be impossible to remove later. I think I could have done that with auto supports with the build plate only option selected in hindsight. I also upped the number of bottoms layers to ensure that the underside of the top part of the shroud was airtight and didn't leak.My first attempt turned out to be quite porous.
I prefer PETG which can string a lot hence the need for better part cooling. I use my hot air blower (SMD hot air gun on my soldering stations) to blitz and strings that form inside the shroud and the print progress as I cant get at them one the print is complete (trying to eliminate any unnnesary obstruction)
Will let you know the outcome of better part cooling once everything is fitted.
Great info, thanks for sharing. I'm buying a new soldering iron today, maybe i should look for one that can do this.
Thank you so much dude! Very helpful! I was thinking to try the bullseye fan duct..
You're welcome :)
I have the Ender 3 and have both the vent ring and the bullseye printed and was delaying installing bullseye because of how complicated it looks.. I think this video just convinced me - wasn't really a crushing "run and upgrade" but since it's already printed I might as well stop being lazy and do it :)
How has that gone for you? New Ender 3 Pro, my first, is arriving Friday.
Hey, thanks so much for using a ton of plastic to make this video and do a comparison with the bullseye and especially the vent ring! It seems like itll be worth it to print out the bullseye for those tricky overhangs.
I know you're probably tired out from testing fan mounts and cooling options, but if you ever choose to revisit this, Id love to see how big of a difference a 5015 fan on the Petsfang would have. Cheers for making this video! :)
Thanks for watching. I will consider this on my Tevo Tornado in future.
Awesome michael. Thx for the advice and all your hard work.
The Fang on my CR-10 was a great step up on the standard. Recently I have been designing a fan for my Flexion/Ender combo, learned a heap about Fusion 360 in the process and what not to do with offset geometry and paths :)
Perfect success story of 3D printing and 3D modelling making you smarter.
I might have a crack at a fan for the Ender/CR-10's as I got an offer on a second Pro I couldn't refuse ;) Teflon lined Filament feeder was one mod I have just done too as a spin of from a CR-10 upgrade. www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/3d-printer-yet/msg1913924/#msg1913924
Another great video Michael. One suggestion for your video, printing the upgrades or components in a different colour other than black, like yellow for example, would make it easier to see in the video, and when they are inplace on your printers.
That is a really good point. I printed my Hero Me in gold in response to this but it didn't fit my Tevo Tornado :(
@@TeachingTech Agreed. The dark translucent or metallic ones seem to show off the detail the easiest on camera
Printing the fan test part 2b with the default blower, I had a pretty consistent but kind of funny failure at around 70 degrees. It kept popping off the bed no matter how good the first layer stuck down. After two failed prints I kept a very close eye on the third. and the nozzle kept bumping into the right-hand chamfer. Eventually it got high enough that the chamfer acted like a leaf spring when the nozzle collided, and the whole thing just sproinged off.
My best guess is that the air pressure was actually pushing the melted plastic up as it cooled, creating a little ridge that eventually led to failure.
So with that as a benchmark I printed the Bullseye and installed it. Results? Bridging was great, stringing was slightly worse (?) and now both left and right chamfers hit the nozzle at 70 degrees, but they stayed flat enough that it didn't pop off. Win?
Thank you. I tried printing the Petsfang and couldn't get cura to print it so I printed the Ring. Been trying to figure out issues with my printer and the Ring Vent certainly isn't helping. I'm going to print the Bullseye when I can.
Definitely worth the upgrade.
@@TeachingTech The fan doesn't fit in the duct part for me. Going to edit the file in tinkercad later.
Thank you for your effort. My Ender 3 is getting the Petsfang with 5015 fan soon. Not that i actually had any serious printing issues on my (mostly) stock Ender 3 until now, this little machine is capable of an astoundingly consistent and solid quality out of the box, considering how basic it really is (especially the controller electronics).
I agree very much. Just saw a thread today where a veteran 3D printer smashed his Ender 3 with a hammer because he couldn't get it to work..
@@TeachingTech I am not quite sure how your answer relates to what i said in my post?
Also look at the hero me fanduct, less bulky than the petsfang
@@TeachingTech O'my! :○ Temper, temper...
I was just highlighting the contrast in experiences and results with the same printer. Generally many of the people who can't get it working blame the printer instead of user error.
I'm using the vent ring now from thingiverse, and it's a pretty nice upgrade that's really simple to print and install.
Thank your time on this.
R&D is tiresome at times, but that's what it takes to get the science right on a promising product. Much like the first Audio recording on a tinfoil cylinder. While listening to the grotesque sound, Edison had to have wondered how much longer it would take to make it perfect. In reality with the advent of Dolby about 80 some odd years. Even so I don't think he once felt it was impossible. That's where you and people likewise are with the 3d printers. One day they will be perfect while printing in color and changing shades ever so slightly. Banding, ghosting, stringing will be a lost experience, with newer challenges on the horizon! Great videos, good luck, the future waits.
Love the ender 3 content
out of all the air nozzles i've tried, the one that stood out above and beyond all others was "yet another fan duct". (only available for the A8, but easily enough adapted)
it looks deceptively simular to that "circular fan duct", almost everybody printed at some point, but never performed well, but the resistance is extremely low, and the air flow is focussed into a straight jet/vortex coming from the center of the ring. while the fact it rides very low (~1,5mm above the print) creates a tight spot that forces the flow to accelerate while keeping it right on the surface of the print, and distributing it perfectly 360°.
i dont know of any design even coming close to it's efficiency, or even using the same concept.
Printing a bullseye now 👍
I've been running the bullseye on my ender 3 for a few weeks. I like the performance of it but I've been having some vibration issues. the screws for the 4010 fan keep coming loose and the blower fan vibrates during travel moves. This is likely a combination of tuning my printer so I wouldn't knock the bullseye for any of these issues. I'm going to try the Luckyman fanduct as well, since it's a 1 piece design and will eliminate any possibility of vibration between the two printed pieces... and just because I wanted to try it out. Just my $0.02. Great comparison, love your videos! you've been a huge help since the ender 3 is my first 3d printer.
Thanks for sharing Justin. To stop the screws from loosening you could put a touch of glue or tape on the thread. The M2 ones are pretty small and fiddly though.
Yeah, I've tried blue loctite but the threads on the m2 screws are so fine they don't really hold in anything that doesn't have metal threads.
Lucky Man fanduct is really a great "simple" design and you can print it with 0% infill!
I've a question about the fans, which i replaced on my ender 3. I have a fan on the top and a fan on the front... Should both fans be blowing down onto the nozzle?
Bullseye should send you free filament for your reviews!!! Good work.
2021 update would be helpful. lots of great comments.
I think that standard vent with improved slicing profile gives same (or better) results of all of this mods.
Thanks for this. I was debating printing the ring vent cause it looked pretty simple but I think I'll skip straight to the bullseye now. Thanks for sacrificing all that plastic!
Hopefully I can recycle it soon.
Very informative Michael thank you. That sure was a lot of modelling and testing.
Installed the bullseye myself a few days ago - I found it a slight improvement but I don't think it makes a significant difference; the stock arrangement has been surprisingly very good. I've left it on though, as I do like better visibility of the nozzle.
Uploaded my print with the bullseye of your test model as a make on Thingiverse - results look pretty much identical.
Found that to make it print the model reliably, setting Z seam alignment to "user defined" with X/Y for the seam set to the middle of the bed, ensures the nozzle path for each layer of each wing starts on the middle of the previous layer (Ultimaker Cura 3.5.1).
Really clear and usefull. Thank you.
Quality content as always. Thank you!
Please make a video on how to reduce stringing for different materials like petg.
switch to direct extruder and it will solve it by 50%
I used a ring vent and it's working great but I'm looking into getting a better one so the extruder cooling fan doesn't blow on the print anymore.
It hard to see but it looks like he left a sharp corner on the inside where is goes from the axial duct to the vertical. There is more to air flow design than just connecting ducts, which you can see on a flowbench - I port cylinder heads and have 2 -.
Nice! I'm printing the Hero Me now. There's a bullseye on currently, but the vibrations bug me. I'll print your torture test on both.
Seems you got the same results as me, I give a try to the 5015 version for the CR-10, yes there was improvement but not as good as the designer claims, I will give it a 2nd try to this and see how it goes, the worst that can happen if ill go back to my horrible own mod, once again thanks for the video, very informative. I just got a quidi tech 1 for small parts you may want to give it a try to that printer so far I really like it.
I give a try once again to this petsfang stuff for the CR10, for me just doesn't work I like to print in high temps for PLA since is how I get strong parts, once again on petsfang the stringiness its amazing, even lowering the temp (205 c) didn't work, the design is nice fits perfect looks good but CR-10 version just doesn't work. Ill go back to my own horrible mod/remake.
Excellent testing methodology!
Wow, Thanks for your big time
Thanks for sharing :-)
Nice review
Well, I'll have to check out that bullseye if you think it's an improvement. You know more about it than me.
Based on this test it is better.
Already printed this mod. Waiting for my ender to arrive
How did you print it? I'm using Slic3r and when adding supports, it adds a couple also on the inside of the duct, which is definitely bad for the airflow. I have the option checked to only make supports from the bed, but Slic3r somehow seems to be ignoring this. Any advice, please?
@@madzur I'm using cura... Supports on bed only... No such issue
@@Paulabusa I tried also cura, this has even worse supports throughout the whole inside... I'm wondering what the setting is called to turn them off.
@@madzur not sure mate. Mine is totally empty inside
great test...thanks alot
The only problem with all his duct variants is the assembly instructions/materials needed to assemble could use some improvement.
So true. Those instructions and the layout of the Thingiverse page is the perfect example of an engineer with poor communication skills.
It's so frustrating
with the small one its reccomended to print in .12 layer hight
I know they're test prints designed to compare nozzle cooling and not miniatures, but they look horrible. If I got prints like that, I'd stop them half way and check if my belts were loose. At 0.2mm layer height my stock Ender 3 with a stock fan nozzle produces way cleaner and more precise results. I tested different cooling nozzle designs using the all in one 3D printer test and found no visible difference, some fan ducts that direct the air below the nozzle actually make prints worse and sacrifice layer adhesion. The stock fan nozzle is easily good enough - at 80 degree overhangs there's less droop than at 70 with Bullseye in Michaels test. So what's going on? Just the slicer settings, print speed?
Thanks for the video!!
great channel
Soooooo, I won't bother then lol. Cheers for saving me a lot of time and frustration.
Very much appreciated. :)
Yep.. I just printed the petfang v2 things and realized that don't fit my stock fan... so sad... bullseye is the way :)
Bullseye was created for this purpose.
HI Michael Laws, Thank you for this video. I'm pretty new to this but am very excited about my Ender 3 Pro (I bought another). I added the Bullseye mod to one Ender 3 Pro and prints have gotten bad. I may switch back to the OEM fan rig as since installing this, my prints have been really awful. So, please correct my vernacular here as I'm not sure if I'm using the right words. When I start a print, it looks pretty good. But after say a few hours, I come back to pieces of string (short pieces about 20mm or less), dropped all over the print. Sometimes entire pieces have fallen off the build plate, standard Ender 3 Pro, and it looks like a ball of plastic spaghetti. Is that under extruded filament getting cooled to quickly that it's not sticking? Is the duct too good that it is cooling the filament? SHow I adjust fan setting in CURA? In addition, my other Ender 3 Pro, right next to it, is still stock, and shows a tiny amount of this. Would the ambient room temperature have anything to do with this? It have been very cold outside here lately, like in the low 40s. The basement where the printer are could be in the high 50s/low 60s. I also do notice, on larger prints, the edges peeling away. Thanks. Great informative videos!
I think the HeroMe is a little better choice for Ender3
Would be interesting to see how that torture test prints on the MK3.
Because the MK3 has a very simple air shroud and it seems to me that most of those add on fan shroud designs are much too elaborate and done by people that don’t know a lot about fluid dynamics, static pressure, etc.
So, how do you attach the fan to the bullseye duct? I put to small screws through the front but it doesn't tighten the fan in place. So I have a constant rattle?
I use fans so I have bigger ducts ..
You have to impedance match, these little ducts need the right type of blower.
good video, what camera are you using for the time lapse? its much clearer than my pi camera...
Either a Logitech C930e or HSJXJ S70, depending on the timelapse.
Thanks for another very worthwhile video Michael-I have been wondering if this bullseye vent was really worth the time etc to make and install and I think after watching this I have my answer-I didn’t really think there was much differrence over stock except for the bridging, and since I generally don’t do prints with tricky overhangs or big bridging I doubt I will fit it to my ender 3. The stock cooling on the ender 3 I have to admit actually seems surprisingly good especially given the duct used. Cheers for spending the time etc to do this video👍👍
I agree that it's probably not worthwhile unless you are printing difficult things.
I appreciated the Bullseye more for the viability of the nozzle over the "big black box" that the stock Ender 3 has.
I've noticed that round holes on the front (in relation to the printer) of the print are decent but on the back of the print they have tired eyelids ... I am still using the stock part-cooling fan. I've acquired a 5015 blower, but have not added it yet.
Speaking of fans, the stock heat brake fan on my Ender 3 was already dying when i printed the Bullseye. The slight angle of the heat brake fan mount of the Bullseye stopped the heat brake fan from howling. it probably would have lasted longer with the new mount, but I have also acquired some ball-bearing fans to replace it.
Hey, i know your working with all of these cooling mechanisms so i was wondering if you could rank them. I was also wondering if you could include the fang ive watched a fair amount of videos and had exspirence with fdm printing, but havent had time to check them out... im rather new to moding and was wondering which fans are worth it and if it really has an impact.
Just reminded me.
Meant to actually test my new Tornado Fang. I switched back from a blower, as the noise was driving me insane and stuck on a couple of Noctua 40x40x20s (which seemingly shift more air than the blower... it was a shit blower, mind).
I'll stick it on Thingiverse however it works out..
Please post back when you do.
@@TeachingTech www.thingiverse.com/make:554387
Hi, firstly I want to thank You for all Your hard work on introducing us Your Ender 3 tech solutions! I have a technical question - how do You get rid of support inside of Bullseye duct (ventilation pipes on both sides)?
In your slicer there is likely an option to only build support from the build platform. This means that it won't be placed in the internal sections. Sounds like unfortunately you might need a reprint.
@@TeachingTech Thanks Michael! I was standing over the E3 and cleaning the supports on the go and... I made it! :) part looks stunning! I am using Cura to slice and there changing support setting process requires going to customized printing options which makes it really complex... Anyway, I have played a bit with Cura and we will see what will be the result. All the best Michael and I am impatiently waiting for next moovies of Yours!
Hi do you please got the files for the standard ender 5 for the ducked and mounting the ones i got do not fit thanks Nick
What I'm taking away from this is that the heat break cooling fan is probably largely responsible for cooling down the part, considering all that leaking air. A person changing that heatbreak fan (because they are noisy as all hell) with something like a noctua 40x40x10 might end up with a worse print because the air leaking to the part will be significantly less.
I've recently done that modification, still waiting on some parts to complete it. Let's see how it fares :/
The leaking air was significant I agree. Worth setting up the water for.
@@TeachingTech considering the print quality remained fairly stable when you dropped the part fan - even if you increased layer time - I'd say this leaking air is pretty relevant to part cooling in the stock setup. I replaced my electronics and heat break fan with NF-A4x10 FLX's. These are 12V so I installed them in series on a 24V output to make this work. I didn't change the blower fan.
Based on your video, I am now wondering if I nuked my part cooling just by replacing the heatbreak fan, haha! Perhaps I'll have to change to a stronger blower to get part cooling back where it should be. I'll report back what I find once I'm up and running again.
Finally, there's a guy on Thingiverse called "kelokera" who makes Creality cooling mods as well. You can have a look here:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3092044
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020267
@Teaching Tech Would love an "Advanced Cooling" comparison video on the Hero Me Fanduct (thing:3092044), the Bullseye and the Bantamount. Just upgraded to the Bullseye over the weekend myself but I'm not happy with the amount of forward mass with the blower fan and the overall look. The Hero seems to have resolved both these issues but changing isn't worth it if the performance drops.
Thx for the info
Nice video man, very impressed! My results for the ring air duct are the same. It made my prints worse. Kool idea, poorly executed. My stock ender 3 pro works best left along so that's how I will keep it till it fails on me. As far as the stepper dampers (been watching your videos back to back) , Do you recommend a link to purchase them? High quality is important to me. rather pay a little more upfront than pay for it later! Thanks.
Strange I use the ring vent quite some time now on my ender 3 , it made stringing less and my prints look better.
Tl smoothers, bed level springs, ring vent , fan cover under bed , glass print bed and metal extruder drive are the only upgrades I did.
Its working very reliable and the prints are always nice.
Zero problems with the ring vent.
Its better then the standard fan duct , the ring vent has a way more evenly spread air flow in my opinion vs the standard duct.
Gonna upgrade the screen soon to a treetech v3 tft 😀
thank you! well deserved like and sub
I use 2 5015s on my ender 3 .awesome setup with pla I only go up to 40%
It sounds like the 2nd fan is redundant. I was wondering if it was worth it. Thanks for the info. Can you think of a situation where you would need 2?
jimi manick if you are using say a 0.8mm nozzle or bigger and it helps to have a better looking more simple fan duct
I managed to melt the stock duct on my Geeetech A20. I tried to print about 5 different ducts but each would fail ironically on the bridging parts likely due to no direct nozzle airflow or the print was weak and the screw holes would snap off when I tried to mount it!
I recently switched from Cura to Prusaslicer for g-code and found the parts produced by Prusaslicer with the same settings I used it Cura had the same dimensions but weighed nearly twice as much and were much stronger, so I decided to try print a duct again and success! Much stronger, solid part and now with the duct, my overhangs have improved immensely. Do you have a video comparing the strength of components produced using different slicers with the same settings? Would be an interesting test/video?
I just completed the installation of the Bullseye Fan Duct, the BLTOUCH and have configured using Vanilla Marlin. After completing the installation, I made some test prints and they are all 10mm offset on the y axis, closer to the front of the bed. How do I fix this? It is undoubtedly something I entered inadvertently, but I don’t know how to fix my mistake.
Aside from the mixed results, it seems highly questionable to me to have PLA parts in such close proximity to the thing that is designed to melt PLA. Aside from the risk of accidental meltage, most prints disable the fan on the first .6mm of a print so there is a very good chance that these things would accumulate a lot of blobs from the extruder over time. It's probably simpler to get a more powerful fan.
I just got an tornado 2nd hand and it didn't have a part cooling fan installed
Did you do the Hero Me one already ? It's looks nice and has a version for a bl touch iirc.
Released yesterday.
Yea I already saw it. Thanks for the video. I'll be printing myself a hero me in the near future :)
Hey great video ! I have an Ender 3 V2 and I have some problems with my fans. Do you know how I can test my cooling fan (make it running without printing) ? Thanks in advance !
on the panel you just select: Control -> Fan -> 255
Do you have stock fans and a stock hot end on your ender 3 if so what files do you print? There are only 1000 (seems like it anyway) files and I'm not sure what all the abbreviations are. Could you please reply with the file names I need to print? I've downloaded them and think I need to print "BULLSEYE_BASE_CREALITY_9.27" and "Bullseye_Duct_9.27" Thanks
I don't understand why you endorse these vent mods. The standard did better in nearly every test. The modded vent only did better once you changed the print for the mod, but not the standard. So how is that a comparison?
Hello Michael, I'm really enjoying my new Ender 3 Pro and have since done all the mods you've recently demonstrated, thank you. Although one item you haven't yet reviewed and I think it's the best mode I've done so far, i.e. replacing the stock cold end extruder with a SeeMeCNC EZR Struder ( www.seemecnc.com/products/ezrstruder). For me, a newbe, for a small cost it's made my printing experience so much more pleasurable plus I'm now able to print TPU's such as Ninjaflex with ease.
I already have another printer modified specifically for flexibles but for $35 I've ordered one anyway. thanks for watching and sharing.
@@TeachingTech Sounds good, look forward to seeing your review. I had to modify the thingiverse 2896612 filament guide a little so that the SeeMeCNC Struder could fit, just a little clearance was required. Though I'm thinking I should have printed the Bullseye in ABS Vs PLA because @ 200c I've noticed the ducts have shrunk a bit.
Damn, your tevo tornado must not be setup correctly because your initial test print is horid. I have a tornado gold edition, no upgrades and it prints way way way better than that. Are you still using the springstyle coupler and stock voltages?
It took me 10 min to install mine and i can now bridge 100mm no issues. Ill try your test and see how it prints
the cooling fan deteriorates faster on petsfang.. specially on fast pace printing.. it's position isn't ideal. 90°original p position is better.
What exactly do you mean, the fan "deteriorates"? And which fan of the two do you mean? The stock hotend cooling or the 5015 parts cooling fan?
Have you got the original file prior to the bullseye upgrade as need it to print the stock for a school display. Evolution of the fang.
Do you need any additional hardware to mount this on an Ender 3 or is all stock hardware reused?
Some extra M3 x 10 bolts, that's all.