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Making A Highline Bass Guitar Part 4: Installing the Truss Rod, the Fretboard, and the Marker Dots
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- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2024
- In Part 4 of the Highline bass guitar build, the truss rod gets installed into the neck, the fretboard is glued onto the neck, the fret marker dots are installed, and the neck is fitted to the body.
Very nice so far Chris! What a great tip with the duct tape and band saw to get the dots cut out!! Thanks as always for sharing you knowledge with us bro, best luthier channel on you tube!! I've learned so much from you in the last few years I was able to take what I already knew plus all the great tips from you and a few other great builders on the tube and a few months ago I started a guitar repair and modification shop, over here in Mass. I've already had some good customers that love my work and come back for more! (Probably because I charge next to nothing, my wife gives me shit about that but I enjoy it so much it's hard to charge friends) But what a great part time job! I've even brought a few guitars to work with me and completely changed the shape of a few bodies, I've been a machinist for over 30+ yrs. and I'll punch out and stay late at the shop righting programs for new body shapes. Does your cnc router read G&M code? Just wondering... Anyways thx. again for all you do my friend......... Mike (Ipswich River Guitars).
I only use g code.
@@HighlineGuitars That makes sense since the M codes are machine codes (like spindle on clockwise/counter clockwise spindle off, most things that can be controlled manually... Does your machine read G code canned cycles?
@@MikeCindyWhite No. I'm using grbl 1.1 on an Arduino Uno.
@@HighlineGuitars Wow, Very nice Chris I like watching your machine because you made it... Far beyond my skills!! 👍
Applying salt was one of the great tips I took from this video :)
You can scrape that glue squeeze out off after about 30 minutes which makes for less filing/sanding of it when it's fully hardened. You still get the benefit of not getting it into the wood fibers like you would with a damp rag like you mention with a lot less work. Great project, BTW.
I think it’s better to let it dry completely. If you don’t time it right, the glue will be dry on the surface, but wet inside. That can cause the glue to smear when you file/sand it off. The result is a ruined neck!
Awesome tips!
Great video
With your method, do you ever have rattling of the truss rod beam after glue dries but before you put tension on the rod for the first time? I got rattle in mine right after gluing and I even used a little silicone sealant in a few local spots in the truss rod channel before setting the rod in. I think the string tension will nullify it when I get to that step, but it still bothers me that it was there.
Never had the dreaded rod rattle.
Hi Chris, does the direction of truss rod affect the neck relieve locations? For example, if the truss rod tail (or head?) towards the headstock like in this video, does it mean the first 2 or 3 frets will be less affected by the truss rod compared to if you change the truss rod tail to facing the bridge? If yes, which direction of the truss rod is better?
Before you decide whether to position the adjustment end of a truss rod, adjust it in both directions to see where the center of the bend is. That’s where your maximum relief will be. Position the truss rod so the point of maximum relief will be for your neck design. To do this, you may find it necessary to mount it with the adjustment end at either the headstock or the heel.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks Chris! Just watched another video of yours about ‘truss rod replacement’, learnt a lot!
@@darren4007 I just finished shooting another video that addresses your specific question. It'll premiere tomorrow, June 20, 2023.
@@HighlineGuitars thank you Chris, looking forward to it!
Does Anyone know where I could get a long radius beam like the one at 3:39 or 10:00 ?
I make my own.
Question won't the salt rot the wood
No. Salt needs water and air to initiate rot and there is neither in the space between the fretboard and neck. Woodworkers have been doing this trick for centuries.
@@HighlineGuitars ok I did not know that. Thanks for getting back to me
Very good job. What's the thickness of fretboard please?
1/4"
@@HighlineGuitars thanks a lot. 😀👏👍
Hi Chris, thank you for this series of videos. I wanna ask you one thing: why you have used the CA glue for the dots of the fretboard? The Titebond is not good for this job?
Titebond is fine if you don't mind waiting a couple of hours for it to dry. CA dries in 15-30 seconds.
@@HighlineGuitars Thank you.
Hi Chris. Are you interested in making a 10" radius long sanding block like the one in the video and selling it to me? I don't have or know anyone with a cnc in which I could acquire one.
Sorry, I don't have time to make tools or parts. Only complete guitars.
your fretboard appears to have sled while glue dried 9:37
Nope. That is squeeze out I haven't removed yet