Thanks for breaking down the hot end in such great detail. I got part way into mine and had to stop, but your video gives me confidence to continue to tinker.
This was so helpful! This is my first 3D printer, and it started leaking plastic over the nozzle, and this video was EXACTLY what I was looking for to help fix it. Thank you so much for posting it!
I was about to just buy a new printer, but this video helped me to fix the printer I already have so thank you for helping me save 400 bucks. Respect👍🏻
Fabulous delivery of a necessary topic. I watch many of these “Monoprice” videos, in advance of needing them, and yours TRULY are the best. Great explanation, great delivery, and great editing/cinematography. Thanks a ton.
Thank you for your detailed instruction Frank. I wish I would have seen your instruction before getting started with my first 3d printer. I now fully understand what to do and how to do it.
Hey man this video helped explain my hot end to me very well. I didn't realize what an all metal hot end ment (from the outside its all metal looking to me) so thanks for explaining the different terminology used.
Thank you so much for making this video! It was so easy to follow! This is my first printer and I was able to dismantle it and clear out the blockage. I was very intimidated taking the whole thing apart but your video gave me confidence I could do it! Thanks!
Thanks so much! This really helped me dismantle everything and then put it together again. I got the blockage cleared out from the heat sink, but unfortunately there's also a broken off piece of filament in the Teflon line just past where you start to feed it in, so I'll have to figure out how to remove that. I'm a total newbie, so I'm learning every day!
I tried that, from both ends, but no luck. It's broken off about 1 inch from the reel end and about 4 inches in from the side above the hot end. Maybe I just don't have the strength, but I pushed for all I was worth! I got some new Bowden tube, so I think I'll try just replacing the whole thing. Thanks for your help!
I am making progress, but still not there yet! I replaced the Bowden tube and now moving the extruder moves the filament through. Yay! However, it is still blocking, right on top of the heat sink. I think it is in the copper thing that connects to the heat sink. I don't know how to remove it - it doesn't seem to screw off, but I can't hold the heat sink tight because it's round. :(
Hi, it is screwed on top of the heat sink, you can try to heat up the heat sink so that it expands and helps you remove the coupling not too much so you do not melt the Inner tube. Or grind off the sides flat at the top of the heat sink just below the coupling so that you can use a wrench, if you do not remove too much material it should still hold when you put it back on the printer. Does this make sense?
YOU SAVED MY SANITY. Thank you so much! I was so intimidated in going into the smaller components with the hotend when my printer was having issues.... I didn't want to break anything, but this video showed me it was actually really simple lol
Very helpful :-) I'll go back to cleaning my Sculpto printer now (same hotend) but with much better knowledge thanks to you! You just earned a new subscriber :-)
I encountered the same problem thank you for posting this! It is perfectly detailed. I am wondering if you might need the thermal insulation and kapton tape for safety, though.
Thank you, thermal insulation will help for heating faster and prevent plastic sticking on the heater bloc. Could help for safety on on side not burning yourself, I have some that I will put back...
Merci Frank!! This video was tremendously helpful to me (a nubbie). Out of all the video's out there (even the one's done by MP) your clip was the only one I found, that really helped me pin point a problem I had with my mp v2 last nite. Merci BCP! Keep up the good work I just subscribe because your tips are efficient and I like your vids/work
Bravo pour tes vidéos Frank. (je t'écris en français car avec ton accent d'après moi tu viens de quelque part au Québec) J'ai un monoprice 3D printer et ça m'aide grandement. Lâche pas !
I really liked the breakdown of all the parts and explanation. The only thing missing was how to remove the wires from the heatblock and then how to reattach them. Unless you just used another heatblock for explanation purposes?
Hi, yes I have used anther heat bloc in this video, the heater is held in place with a screw, and on the mini the thermistor is glued in with some kind of hi temperature silicone, Others have a screw to hold the wires of the thermistor, or a set screw for the E3D originals...
Hi! Thanks!!! is the first video with a demostration on this matter I can found. But I need to know How you remove the heater and the other cable from the Hot Block?, i think is the thermometer. I desarmed everything but I can remove the cilinder from the hot block.
Hi on mine I did not remove those, the thermistor was glued with silicone and the other was held in place with a small grub screw. If you can you should be able to take the cables with the heat bloc or leave it in place and unscrew the heat break from the bloc in place...
Hi, my two printers do not have insulation, my prints are fine no signs of melting or heat from the hot end. I think that insulation helps lessen the temperature variation when extruding, if for example your power supply is limit to keep the heat during long and fast print. The faster you print the more heat is needed from the heater and power supply. Having insulation should take less power for the heater and prevent heater run away when printing at higher speed, or parts that needs lots of extruding without pauses. Insulation also have the benefit of preventing plastic sticking on the heat bloc. Use it if you like, it all depends on your needs.
That could be, but considering that a cooling fan is critical to produce high quality prints by drawing heat away from the top layer, it makes sense to me that the insulation performs a similar function. On another note, have you ever swapped out a control board from a V1 to a V2?
Let’s say that it does not hurt to have insulation! But it’s a pain to put on! I prefer the little silicone socks like on the E3D v6, that I will upgrade to. No I did not swap boards from V1 to V2. I know that the screens also needs to be changed, you have a firmware in them and they are not compatible from V1 to V2 boards from what I can deduce from the firmware upgrade of mpselectmini.com
Thanks for this video. I have a V1 printer with a slightly different configuration of the heat sink and Bowden tube. My main concern is getting replacement nozzles. Do you have a source for the nozzles?
Hi, you have the reference on this wiki, www.mpselectmini.com/parts/nozzle the V1 is 1.5mm shorter than the V2. You could add a Z spacer of 1.5mm and fit the ones I have listed on the video description or maybe they would fit if you can lower the bed enough. You can not cut them easily or you will have oozing like I did in this video.
Hey Frank that was a excellent video for the mini hotend. I added it to my library for future reference. You think it was to long. I think it was worth it. Thank you!
Thanks for the reply. What confused me is that I can not see an attached thermistor in your video from 6:42 to 10:57. Based on some searches, I'm going to reattach my with a dab of Permatex 80335 Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer. P.S. Several of your videos have helped me as a first time 3D printer user. So thanks.
Hi, All metal is able to go higher temperatures than the Teflon ones, if you want to use other materials than PLA like PETG you need a All metal since PETG working temperature is around 245 and it would be melting the Teflon liner.
It is my understanding the if you only print PLA the teflon is better as it will get jammed less often. But if you print PETG or ABS then its better to get a all metal as it wont degrade under heat.
A "How to" titled video that actually tells how to do things instead of just watching someone else do what you want to learn to do yourself. This guy needs to teach all of the other youtubers what the correct "how to" video is done.
Well, that didn't take long to mess up. What do you attribute the cause to? The parts not being properly tightened at the factory? Should new users maybe take it apart before ever using the printer to make sure everything is tightened properly? Looks like I should pick up a set of metric wrenches, all I have is SAE except some small metric for working on RC cars.
+Duck Landes Hi, the nozzle had a defect from the factory, and they offered to exchange the whole thing, reimbursed me or give a 15% rebate, I took the rebate and made a video at the same time since I had nozzles on hand. And I did buy a similar nozzles pack of 0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm, 0.8mm for future projects.
+Duck Landes oh and yes, I already have metric wrenches, my motorcycles are Japanese and are metric, so I already have those. In Canada we use both systems, and we are kind of all mixed up.
Hi, no the heat block should be a little tight, with aluminium it does not take much, but because of the heat expansion you need to tight it up when it’s at temperature. If it makes sense?
I had a clog in the PFTE tube and needed to replace it, now I can't fit new PTFE tubing inside of the heat break. Should I shave down the PTFE tubing to fit it in?
To anyone with this printer, I'd appreciate if you answer this for me: Is the hotend an exact replica of the e3d v6? If I got an e3d v6, would it fit into the printer's stock mount with no issues? Or would I have to print a new x carriage? Thanks in advance.
I'm confused because I didn't see you removing a clog in the head or the bowden tube. I only saw you install a new head. So am I to understand the only issue was the clogged old head?
In fact the nozzle was bad, it’s meeting surface to the heat break was not straight and plastic was oozing out on top and on the bottom of the heat bloc. I will soon do a video on easy clog removal on the mini.
Frank's 3D shop Thanks Frank, your video still helped me clear my teflon tube, it was clogged right above the nozzle. I think it got clogged because I mistakenly printed my last job and stopped it mid-stream and left the heat on for 5 minutes before I loaded the correct job. During this 5 minutes the PLA got hot and creeped up too high into the bowden tube inside the heatsink. I used a wooden Q-tip stick to push the tube out the bottom after removing the head, cleared it out with the stick and reassembled it all. Now it's working good! My advice is if you're going to let the printer sit idle for a while shut off the heater block to prevent it melting upwards! Thanks for your great videos...
Also let the fan run until temperature of the nozzle is below 50 degrees or so, this will prevent the same problem. Say you finish a print and shutdown the printer right away, the heat will creep up, because there is no fan to cool it.
After watching a couple of your videos, I finally noticed in the opening sequence, you are 3D printing a cup, and then putting coffee (or some consumable coffee-like beverage) in there... presumably to drink. -- That's bad. -- Don't do that. -- 3D printed items are generally not food safe (even "food safe" filament is not actually food safe unless you only print that one kind of filament, and in a sterilized 3D printer / environment ...) For a few reasons: the obvious one that everybody cites is that the FDM printing process leaves small gaps between layers and walls that germs can get into a thrive in, forever. There is some "food safe" filament, that is supposed to make that less of an issue, but then the hotend that you print with, probably has small contaminants in it (especially from other filaments), that it deposits into the part you are printing. Also, for regular PLA, it melts a low temperature (making it hard to dish wash), and some hot beverages will warp and deform it (also meaning that any nozzle contaminants that made it into your part are now in the beverage that you are drinking...). Anyway, just don't eat or drink from those items, it's bad for you...
Thanks, I will consider this when doing my new intro (soon). I only used that cup for the intro, using it the first time I did realize that it was hard to clean up. It was made from PETG which resist higher temperature; it does not leak at least! And all of the layer lines are not a good feeling on the lips; I doubt that anybody would use it for a long time. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for this frank! I just started having clogging issues that I couldn't solve with normal maintenance. btw have you tried installing the all metal E3D? I wondering if its a near drop in mod on the MPSM V2 "E3D" edition(ie no custom mounts needed)
Hi again, I just tried the E3D v6 on the Mini V2, and it fits in the support but it is 4-5mm shorter. So if you add a glass bed of 4-5mm or even better a PrintInZ bed (just tried one today and it is so nice no glue needed), you would be at right height from what I can see.
Awesome! good to know! its a genuine E3D correct? I'm going to try out the nozzles you linked. Hopefully it solves my current clogging issues. I went months without clogging, now after every 2+ hour print, I have a clog every time I start up the machine for the next print.
Yes it’s was a genuine E3D v6... you should also change the PTFE tube it can break down and shoot pieces in the nozzle, watch out my heat break threaded tube broke easily, the walls are thin and if you force the nut out too much because of left over plastic, the tube breaks. I changed the heat break tube for another one with a smaller outside diameter PTFE so the walls of the heat break are thicker. I had to add a small length of tube on top of the heat break also, the oem comes out about 30mm and the one used was flush cut and smaller anyway. Look at 9:20 in my video Troubled Nozzle, so you cut out a piece of tubing the length of the one you see coming out the original, and you can use those If you break yours: HICTOP 5 Pieces 3D Printer Extruder Hotend 1.75mm Nozzle Throat for Reprap Prusa I3 www.amazon.com/dp/B00WW141TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_maCMAbDCK5MPW
When took out it out a few days ago the tube and heat break seems fine. But the heater block has lost a few threads, they came off attached to the nozzle's thread. Good idea on the tube though, a tube with a smaller I.D. may help prevent some spiraling in the heat break.
Is it possible to use the heatbreak from the e3d v6 inside the stock select mini v2 hot end assembly? I wonder because they're so similar if you can mod a stock hot end to be all metal for much less than a whole e3d v6 swap with just an e3d replacement heat break.
I think it can be made, it could change the height and you will have to compensate with a shim on the Z switch to prevent crashing on the print surface.
Yes it does brake down around that temperature, but the heat break does not get to the same temperature as the nozzle, that is why you have the big round heat sink on top of it. At least on my mini and both minis of a friend it did not deteriorate the PTFE tube.
J’ai aussi la V2 ainsi que mon ami, sur la V2 original, tu peux remplacer le tube PTFE sans remplacer le heat break, c’est le même tube que le tube extérieur qui mène à l’extrudeur.
Frank , I had a big clog on my Mini Select V2. I have to replace the PTFE teflon liner that you show at 9:16 of your video. Could you please tell me what's the exact length of that liner. I'm afraid the original one had been distorted by heath and its length has changed.
Hi, I do not have the tube anymore, but a friend needs to replace his and it is in good shape otherwise, I will ask him to measure it and report back to you.
this is so easy printer, just remove fan and you reach to hotend. i tried opening prusa i3 mk3s and its a hell, thats very poorly designed for servicing . maybe i damaged the whole print head. still checking it
Frank's 3D shop The heat block for some reason unscrewed itself halfway and I can’t unscrew it off or put it back. And the heat sync is hot What am I suppose to do? I can’t find a fix and it’s like something sealed the nozzle and the heat sync into the heat block even when heated
Normally, the nozzle meets the heat break inside the heat bloc and is not touching the heat bloc, if your nozzle is stuck and screw up to the heat bloc, the threads could be damaged. I would heat the hot end to 200, than use a C wrench to hold the heat bloc and a closed wrench for the nozzle. You could need a new heat bloc, nozzle or the whole hot end.
If you can unscrew the alumnium heat sink from the heat break, you could use two nuts jammed to get leverage on unscrewing the heat break from the heat bloc, I did that and broke the heat break. And replaced it with a stronger one.
![CHILE vs. BRASIL [1-2] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 9](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5ObJt_71AYc/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for breaking down the hot end in such great detail. I got part way into mine and had to stop, but your video gives me confidence to continue to tinker.
Thank you!
@@Franks3Dshop what is your email?
This was so helpful! This is my first 3D printer, and it started leaking plastic over the nozzle, and this video was EXACTLY what I was looking for to help fix it. Thank you so much for posting it!
I was about to just buy a new printer, but this video helped me to fix the printer I already have so thank you for helping me save 400 bucks. Respect👍🏻
Fabulous delivery of a necessary topic. I watch many of these “Monoprice” videos, in advance of needing them, and yours TRULY are the best. Great explanation, great delivery, and great editing/cinematography. Thanks a ton.
Thank you! More videos after the summer, it’s motorcycle season ;-)
thank you so much. you saved my printer and you are so much more helpful than monoprice
Thank you :-)
Thank you for your detailed instruction Frank. I wish I would have seen your instruction before getting started with my first 3d printer. I now fully understand what to do and how to do it.
Excellent video! Thought I’d really trashed my headend and needed to order parts but your video saved the day.
Thank you so much, some filament snapped off in my machine and this video saved the day
OH thank you - this was my last report before junking my printer, and it worked perfectly!
Hey man this video helped explain my hot end to me very well. I didn't realize what an all metal hot end ment (from the outside its all metal looking to me) so thanks for explaining the different terminology used.
Thank you so much for making this video! It was so easy to follow! This is my first printer and I was able to dismantle it and clear out the blockage. I was very intimidated taking the whole thing apart but your video gave me confidence I could do it! Thanks!
Thank you for you kind words, it will help me to continue my work.
Great video! Has all the information needed to give you confidence to tackle the job yourself.
Thanks so much! This really helped me dismantle everything and then put it together again. I got the blockage cleared out from the heat sink, but unfortunately there's also a broken off piece of filament in the Teflon line just past where you start to feed it in, so I'll have to figure out how to remove that. I'm a total newbie, so I'm learning every day!
Hi, push filament from the other end !
I tried that, from both ends, but no luck. It's broken off about 1 inch from the reel end and about 4 inches in from the side above the hot end. Maybe I just don't have the strength, but I pushed for all I was worth! I got some new Bowden tube, so I think I'll try just replacing the whole thing. Thanks for your help!
Yes replace it, not normal, filament should go smoothly in the Teflon tube. Maybe there was debris in the tube that jammed it.
I am making progress, but still not there yet! I replaced the Bowden tube and now moving the extruder moves the filament through. Yay! However, it is still blocking, right on top of the heat sink. I think it is in the copper thing that connects to the heat sink. I don't know how to remove it - it doesn't seem to screw off, but I can't hold the heat sink tight because it's round. :(
Hi, it is screwed on top of the heat sink, you can try to heat up the heat sink so that it expands and helps you remove the coupling not too much so you do not melt the Inner tube. Or grind off the sides flat at the top of the heat sink just below the coupling so that you can use a wrench, if you do not remove too much material it should still hold when you put it back on the printer. Does this make sense?
YOU SAVED MY SANITY. Thank you so much! I was so intimidated in going into the smaller components with the hotend when my printer was having issues.... I didn't want to break anything, but this video showed me it was actually really simple lol
Glad to help!
Very helpful :-) I'll go back to cleaning my Sculpto printer now (same hotend) but with much better knowledge thanks to you! You just earned a new subscriber :-)
I encountered the same problem thank you for posting this! It is perfectly detailed. I am wondering if you might need the thermal insulation and kapton tape for safety, though.
Thank you, thermal insulation will help for heating faster and prevent plastic sticking on the heater bloc. Could help for safety on on side not burning yourself, I have some that I will put back...
Thank you for the great video. I had filament stuck in the ptfe tube inside of the heat sink.
Just as a side note, be sure to always have the fan ON with the mini, or else heat will rise and melt the plastic higher.
Merci Frank!! This video was tremendously helpful to me (a nubbie). Out of all the video's out there (even the one's done by MP) your clip was the only one I found, that really helped me pin point a problem I had with my mp v2 last nite. Merci BCP! Keep up the good work
I just subscribe because your tips are efficient and I like your vids/work
Merci beaucoup, your kind words it makes me happy!
exactly what I was looking for! Thanks Frank!
Bravo pour tes vidéos Frank. (je t'écris en français car avec ton accent d'après moi tu viens de quelque part au Québec) J'ai un monoprice 3D printer et ça m'aide grandement. Lâche pas !
Merci, tu ne te trompes pas, je suis de Montréal :-)
Helpfull video. Thank you
I really liked the breakdown of all the parts and explanation. The only thing missing was how to remove the wires from the heatblock and then how to reattach them. Unless you just used another heatblock for explanation purposes?
Hi, yes I have used anther heat bloc in this video, the heater is held in place with a screw, and on the mini the thermistor is glued in with some kind of hi temperature silicone, Others have a screw to hold the wires of the thermistor, or a set screw for the E3D originals...
Hi! Thanks!!! is the first video with a demostration on this matter I can found.
But I need to know How you remove the heater and the other cable from the Hot Block?, i think is the thermometer. I desarmed everything but I can remove the cilinder from the hot block.
Hi on mine I did not remove those, the thermistor was glued with silicone and the other was held in place with a small grub screw. If you can you should be able to take the cables with the heat bloc or leave it in place and unscrew the heat break from the bloc in place...
Thanks. My liner broke inside the heat sink and need to order a new one. Thank showing me how to take everything apart.
I never saw you remove and replace the wires on the hot block.
This was helpful for me! Thank you!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Very helpful, thanks!
exactly what i needed, thank you!
Thank you. This helped out a ton.
You my friend are a life saver, you have earned a life long sub :D
Thank you saved my life!! Lol at least helped me fix my printer.
Lol
Everyone: be carefull about the cables
Me: *uncrews them*
thumbs up and suscribed! Thanks for the video!!
It helped me. Thank you.
Hey , thanks this video is exactly what I need!!! BTW do you have experience with tronxy printers? I just got one and I'm running into so many issues.
Hi, no I have not touch the Tronxy, but maybe I could help, there are surely some facebook group about the Tronxy that are usually helpful...
Thanks! That was really helpful!
thanks i have 5 of these now....
thanks for all the help!!1
FYI, I believe the insulation/kapton tape protect the print from the hot end heat, not the ambient air temp. Therefore, it should always be on there.
Hi, my two printers do not have insulation, my prints are fine no signs of melting or heat from the hot end. I think that insulation helps lessen the temperature variation when extruding, if for example your power supply is limit to keep the heat during long and fast print. The faster you print the more heat is needed from the heater and power supply. Having insulation should take less power for the heater and prevent heater run away when printing at higher speed, or parts that needs lots of extruding without pauses. Insulation also have the benefit of preventing plastic sticking on the heat bloc. Use it if you like, it all depends on your needs.
That could be, but considering that a cooling fan is critical to produce high quality prints by drawing heat away from the top layer, it makes sense to me that the insulation performs a similar function. On another note, have you ever swapped out a control board from a V1 to a V2?
Let’s say that it does not hurt to have insulation! But it’s a pain to put on! I prefer the little silicone socks like on the E3D v6, that I will upgrade to. No I did not swap boards from V1 to V2. I know that the screens also needs to be changed, you have a firmware in them and they are not compatible from V1 to V2 boards from what I can deduce from the firmware upgrade of mpselectmini.com
It also shields the heat block from the part cooling fan and helps the block maintain a more stable temperature.
that's awesome thank u so much for this video
Thanks for this video. I have a V1 printer with a slightly different configuration of the heat sink and Bowden tube. My main concern is getting replacement nozzles. Do you have a source for the nozzles?
Hi, you have the reference on this wiki, www.mpselectmini.com/parts/nozzle the V1 is 1.5mm shorter than the V2. You could add a Z spacer of 1.5mm and fit the ones I have listed on the video description or maybe they would fit if you can lower the bed enough. You can not cut them easily or you will have oozing like I did in this video.
You Legend. Thank you so much!
Hey Frank that was a excellent video for the mini hotend. I added it to my library for future reference. You think it was to long. I think it was worth it. Thank you!
Thank you so much
Omg thank u so much saved my life today
Awesome !!!
thanks really informative !
Thank you!
Awesome Video Love Watching Your Channel Post
More videos👏👋👍👌🙌👏👋👍✌👌
1000th subscriber... that's me!!!
How did you attach the thermistor to the block? This is a great video on the hotend of the v2, but I cannot figure out this one detail.
Hi, I did not replace the thermistor, it seems to be held in place with some hi temp silicone of some kind...
Thanks for the reply. What confused me is that I can not see an attached thermistor in your video from 6:42 to 10:57. Based on some searches, I'm going to reattach my with
a dab of Permatex 80335 Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer. P.S. Several of your videos have helped me as a first time 3D printer user. So thanks.
Thanks, that is why I do this. Your comment help me continue my work.
Thanks this is great 👍🏻
Hello
Which is better?
E3d ALL METAL OR TEFLON?
Hi, All metal is able to go higher temperatures than the Teflon ones, if you want to use other materials than PLA like PETG you need a All metal since PETG working temperature is around 245 and it would be melting the Teflon liner.
@@Franks3Dshop
Thank you.
I've only used PLA.
Which material is better for use with RepRap printer?
It is my understanding the if you only print PLA the teflon is better as it will get jammed less often. But if you print PETG or ABS then its better to get a all metal as it wont degrade under heat.
Love the video!
Grazie Frank for all of your excellent videos! What PETG were you using?
I use inexpensive PETG, Amz3D, MGChemical and Fused from Amazon, in that order depending on current price
@@Franks3Dshop Thanks Frank. They all work well I assume?
A "How to" titled video that actually tells how to do things instead of just watching someone else do what you want to learn to do yourself. This guy needs to teach all of the other youtubers what the correct "how to" video is done.
Great video
Well, that didn't take long to mess up. What do you attribute the cause to? The parts not being properly tightened at the factory? Should new users maybe take it apart before ever using the printer to make sure everything is tightened properly? Looks like I should pick up a set of metric wrenches, all I have is SAE except some small metric for working on RC cars.
+Duck Landes Hi, the nozzle had a defect from the factory, and they offered to exchange the whole thing, reimbursed me or give a 15% rebate, I took the rebate and made a video at the same time since I had nozzles on hand. And I did buy a similar nozzles pack of 0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm, 0.8mm for future projects.
+Duck Landes oh and yes, I already have metric wrenches, my motorcycles are Japanese and are metric, so I already have those. In Canada we use both systems, and we are kind of all mixed up.
Should the heat block be loose when it's hot? I replaced my nozzle and afterwards I noticed it was loose. Not sure if it was like that before.
Hi, no the heat block should be a little tight, with aluminium it does not take much, but because of the heat expansion you need to tight it up when it’s at temperature. If it makes sense?
I had a clog in the PFTE tube and needed to replace it, now I can't fit new PTFE tubing inside of the heat break. Should I shave down the PTFE tubing to fit it in?
Hummm I would try to find why it is not fitting, in theory you could shave it down a little with sandpaper maybe.
To anyone with this printer, I'd appreciate if you answer this for me: Is the hotend an exact replica of the e3d v6? If I got an e3d v6, would it fit into the printer's stock mount with no issues? Or would I have to print a new x carriage? Thanks in advance.
Merci!
Avec plaisir.
How did you reattach the wires going to the extruder heat block?
I left the heat bloc in place, for the exemple I use another one !
thanks
I'm confused because I didn't see you removing a clog in the head or the bowden tube. I only saw you install a new head. So am I to understand the only issue was the clogged old head?
In fact the nozzle was bad, it’s meeting surface to the heat break was not straight and plastic was oozing out on top and on the bottom of the heat bloc. I will soon do a video on easy clog removal on the mini.
Frank's 3D shop Thanks Frank, your video still helped me clear my teflon tube, it was clogged right above the nozzle. I think it got clogged because I mistakenly printed my last job and stopped it mid-stream and left the heat on for 5 minutes before I loaded the correct job. During this 5 minutes the PLA got hot and creeped up too high into the bowden tube inside the heatsink. I used a wooden Q-tip stick to push the tube out the bottom after removing the head, cleared it out with the stick and reassembled it all. Now it's working good! My advice is if you're going to let the printer sit idle for a while shut off the heater block to prevent it melting upwards! Thanks for your great videos...
I use a plugin in Octoprint to turn off the heat after a period of time. “Heater Timeout” so if I forget it does it on its own!
Also let the fan run until temperature of the nozzle is below 50 degrees or so, this will prevent the same problem. Say you finish a print and shutdown the printer right away, the heat will creep up, because there is no fan to cool it.
After watching a couple of your videos, I finally noticed in the opening sequence, you are 3D printing a cup, and then putting coffee (or some consumable coffee-like beverage) in there... presumably to drink. -- That's bad. -- Don't do that. -- 3D printed items are generally not food safe (even "food safe" filament is not actually food safe unless you only print that one kind of filament, and in a sterilized 3D printer / environment ...)
For a few reasons: the obvious one that everybody cites is that the FDM printing process leaves small gaps between layers and walls that germs can get into a thrive in, forever.
There is some "food safe" filament, that is supposed to make that less of an issue, but then the hotend that you print with, probably has small contaminants in it (especially from other filaments), that it deposits into the part you are printing.
Also, for regular PLA, it melts a low temperature (making it hard to dish wash), and some hot beverages will warp and deform it (also meaning that any nozzle contaminants that made it into your part are now in the beverage that you are drinking...).
Anyway, just don't eat or drink from those items, it's bad for you...
Thanks, I will consider this when doing my new intro (soon). I only used that cup for the intro, using it the first time I did realize that it was hard to clean up. It was made from PETG which resist higher temperature; it does not leak at least! And all of the layer lines are not a good feeling on the lips; I doubt that anybody would use it for a long time. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks great Video!! Does anyone know where to buy the 1.8mm ID 3.6mm OD PTFE inner tube liner, for the MP mini delta?
Hi, I normally use 2mm of inner diameter, like this one amzn.to/2XZl1kC
Thanks for this frank! I just started having clogging issues that I couldn't solve with normal maintenance. btw have you tried installing the all metal E3D? I wondering if its a near drop in mod on the MPSM V2 "E3D" edition(ie no custom mounts needed)
Thank you, I can try one, I have one on hand standby for a friend!
Hi again, I just tried the E3D v6 on the Mini V2, and it fits in the support but it is 4-5mm shorter.
So if you add a glass bed of 4-5mm or even better a PrintInZ bed (just tried one today and it is so nice no glue needed), you would be at right height from what I can see.
Awesome! good to know! its a genuine E3D correct? I'm going to try out the nozzles you linked. Hopefully it solves my current clogging issues. I went months without clogging, now after every 2+ hour print, I have a clog every time I start up the machine for the next print.
Yes it’s was a genuine E3D v6... you should also change the PTFE tube it can break down and shoot pieces in the nozzle, watch out my heat break threaded tube broke easily, the walls are thin and if you force the nut out too much because of left over plastic, the tube breaks. I changed the heat break tube for another one with a smaller outside diameter PTFE so the walls of the heat break are thicker. I had to add a small length of tube on top of the heat break also, the oem comes out about 30mm and the one used was flush cut and smaller anyway. Look at 9:20 in my video Troubled Nozzle, so you cut out a piece of tubing the length of the one you see coming out the original, and you can use those If you break yours: HICTOP 5 Pieces 3D Printer Extruder Hotend 1.75mm Nozzle Throat for Reprap Prusa I3 www.amazon.com/dp/B00WW141TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_maCMAbDCK5MPW
When took out it out a few days ago the tube and heat break seems fine. But the heater block has lost a few threads, they came off attached to the nozzle's thread. Good idea on the tube though, a tube with a smaller I.D. may help prevent some spiraling in the heat break.
Is it possible to use the heatbreak from the e3d v6 inside the stock select mini v2 hot end assembly? I wonder because they're so similar if you can mod a stock hot end to be all metal for much less than a whole e3d v6 swap with just an e3d replacement heat break.
I think it can be made, it could change the height and you will have to compensate with a shim on the Z switch to prevent crashing on the print surface.
Any tips for replacing the coupler on top of the heatsink, I need to replace mine and have not been able to get it off
You can try to heat the heat sink a little to make it expand that should help removing the coupler, or freeze the coupler, or both...
when you buy E3D v6, they should also sells mount for it.
Hi Frank, at which temperature do you print the PETG on the Select Mini ? Under 230°C ?
At 235 for PETG.
I read that PTFE starts to deteriorate from 230°C. It would be nice to find an all metal heatbreak. Do you know the length of the stock heatbreak ?
Je précise que j'ai la V2. Les infos pour la V1 sont sur le wiki: www.mpselectmini.com/parts/heat_break
Yes it does brake down around that temperature, but the heat break does not get to the same temperature as the nozzle, that is why you have the big round heat sink on top of it. At least on my mini and both minis of a friend it did not deteriorate the PTFE tube.
J’ai aussi la V2 ainsi que mon ami, sur la V2 original, tu peux remplacer le tube PTFE sans remplacer le heat break, c’est le même tube que le tube extérieur qui mène à l’extrudeur.
Frank , I had a big clog on my Mini Select V2. I have to replace the PTFE teflon liner that you show at 9:16 of your video. Could you please tell me what's the exact length of that liner. I'm afraid the original one had been distorted by heath and its length has changed.
Hi, I do not have the tube anymore, but a friend needs to replace his and it is in good shape otherwise, I will ask him to measure it and report back to you.
Thank's . My goal is to fix the original hot end then in the future replace it with the genuine E3D-V6
Good choice!
The exact lenght on my friends machine with the tube intact, is 52mm
Thank you Frank, by coincidence Poste Canada delivered today the PTFE tubing I ordered. So I'm ready to work .
I love 3D printing but this is the scariest thing for me. I always just end up buying a new hot end assembly.
salut frank c’est quoi le seize du ptfe pour le hot end mp select mini v2
jai commander du PTFE Capricorn TL Diamètre externe de 4mm
C’est ça, 4mm externe et 2mm interne
Frank's 3D shop merci 👍
i think the manufacture screwed the nozzle too tight. i can't get it out
Hi, did you got it to temperature first around 200C ?
My nozzle won't come off it's stuck what do I do
You need to have some heat to be able to remove it. 170 degrees should be enough...
this is so easy printer, just remove fan and you reach to hotend. i tried opening prusa i3 mk3s and its a hell, thats very poorly designed for servicing . maybe i damaged the whole print head. still checking it
You have a point, it's easy but confusing on how to access it, I think it's going to be one of my next videos.
Omg... the filament was stuck and I can’t pull it out until I decide to use brute force and and came out
Hi, as long as you to not bend the X-Axis arm, you should be good. Removing the Bowden tube can help in certain cases.
Frank's 3D shop The heat block for some reason unscrewed itself halfway and I can’t unscrew it off or put it back. And the heat sync is hot
What am I suppose to do? I can’t find a fix and it’s like something sealed the nozzle and the heat sync into the heat block even when heated
Normally, the nozzle meets the heat break inside the heat bloc and is not touching the heat bloc, if your nozzle is stuck and screw up to the heat bloc, the threads could be damaged. I would heat the hot end to 200, than use a C wrench to hold the heat bloc and a closed wrench for the nozzle. You could need a new heat bloc, nozzle or the whole hot end.
Frank's 3D shop and also the heat block won’t separate from the heat sync too.
If you can unscrew the alumnium heat sink from the heat break, you could use two nuts jammed to get leverage on unscrewing the heat break from the heat bloc, I did that and broke the heat break. And replaced it with a stronger one.
You sound from Quebec am i wrong
Because I am from Montreal Québec...
From Montreal too !! Nice video thanks it helped me a lot +1 sub keep it up
Cool!
Aaa don't Drink out of a 3d printed cup
That's not food safe!
Es-tu québecois?
Oui monsieur ! Pure laine.
Pour vrai ?
Oui oui, je t’assures.
Fais un coucou au Québec dans une prochaine vidéo !
Ok je vais faire ça dans un futur video, vu que j’ai déjà enregistré les quelques prochains.
Very helpful!
It helped me, many thanks!
Merci!
C’est avec plaisir !
i think the manufacture screwed the nozzle too tight. i can't get it out
Hi, did you unscrew the nozzle first after heating it to temperature?