I noticed that you didn't lubricate the sliding pinion, winding pinion, or stem. There is a grease, Mobius 9501 (expensive!) that is used for metal to metal, high friction, areas. it's about $75 for 10ml but should last many years. Also you might consider lubricating the exit pallet jewel. Just a few tips 🙂
9501 is a bit of a gimmick when 9105 is just fine. 9010 and 9105 are the only oils you need. Of course, buy all the oils to prop up the Swiss industry! 😄
I do like the music you use in some of your videos although some of the captions are sometimes hard to read. I've enjoyed watching you work and explaing the problems you find.
Thanks, Dale. This was one of my very first videos. I didn’t build up the confidence to narrate till later on. The music in some of my videos got a little…distracting.. I admit. So I tweaked that as well. Always learning!
There are a lot of things I do differently now vs this video. But for the barrel, in theory the movement was designed so if you had a broken mainspring and nothing else was wrong, you could remove the barrel bridge and slide the barrel out to replace it minimally invasive
They are harder and harder to source. The minute recorder wheel I had to buy off an Italian eBay store and it took weeks to arrive. But I was extremely grateful to have found it.
Sir : You have lots of old stock spare part ，and luckily they fit this watch ! 😃 How much you paid from eBay ? without spare parts it becomes garbage !
I think it was under $200, but I carefully inspected all the photos to know what was broken before I bought it. Though there were some things I couldn’t see. Landeron components can still be purchased online, but getting expensive.
Do you want some constructive criticism regarding your techniques? That's a pretty serious column wheel chronograph movement for a hobbyist/enthusiast.
Constructive critiques are always welcome. Yes, felt a little over my head at times but it was already a junk movement so I didn’t have much to lose. It ended up good in the end and it works well.
@@csspinner Well so you know, I'm not talking out of my ass, I'm a WOSTEP watchmaker. At no point should bare fingers be touching the movement, regardless whether you will clean it. It's just good practice. Dials too. You should be protecting the hands and dial with a plastic dial protector, Swiss made. Hands shouldn't be pressed on with just anything, hand press tools are good. Even better when you have a proper support for the movement to support the jewel under which stress is placed when fitting the hands, invest in Bergeon tweezers, they will last you a lifetime, if properly maintained. a good screwdriver set if you don't already have one so that it can perfectly fit your screws. I noticed that you were awkwardly holding your screwdriver, just pinch the screwdriver with your 4 fingers and rest your index straight on top of it, it's less straining and will lead to less slippage. When you're washing your movements buy jars with screw on lids or mason jars to prevent your solution from evaporating. That stuff is expensive 😉
@@mr.personal-ity I since purchase a presto hand/canon puller and have been using that in conjunction with the dial protector. However, good point about using a thin sheet to protect the hands. Great advice, I really appreciate it and will implement in upcoming projects.
@@mr.personal-ity I purchased a replacement sweep hand which is supposed to fit very tightly over the pivot. I noticed I could not press hard enough to feel comfortable so I used a stump in my staking set to support the plated directly beneath it. The hand went on fine and no jewel was harmed, however I’m sure there’s a more specific tool for that job.
A very nice restoration with an impressive level of detail and craftsmanship.
Thank you very much!
I am the sixteenth subscriber. The journey of a thousand subscribers begins with one. Thank you
Awesome! Thank you!
Reminds me of a max bill,nice watch great work
I noticed that you didn't lubricate the sliding pinion, winding pinion, or stem. There is a grease, Mobius 9501 (expensive!) that is used for metal to metal, high friction, areas. it's about $75 for 10ml but should last many years. Also you might consider lubricating the exit pallet jewel. Just a few tips 🙂
Thanks. I have used DX grease in my later restorations
9501 is a bit of a gimmick when 9105 is just fine. 9010 and 9105 are the only oils you need. Of course, buy all the oils to prop up the Swiss industry! 😄
Great work on the WW II era chronograph watch Sir !👍😃. I would love to own this watch. 👌
Good job! Very interesting to see like minded people restore/repair wonderful watches. 😊👍
Thank you!
Another accurate and useful video !... Thank You !
I have almost the exact same watch, I'm really hoping mine goes easier than yours did. Time will tell nice job getting that back up and running.
Good luck and let me know how it goes!
Recently purchased one of these online. Can’t wait for it to arrive so I can work it on.
Please let me know how it goes!
hope you keep posting your excellent work and great choices of watches too! Thank You
Thanks! I’ve got a nice backlog of watches
I do like the music you use in some of your videos although some of the captions are sometimes hard to read. I've enjoyed watching you work and explaing the problems you find.
Thanks, Dale. This was one of my very first videos. I didn’t build up the confidence to narrate till later on. The music in some of my videos got a little…distracting.. I admit. So I tweaked that as well. Always learning!
No voice, no music. My kind of restoration video.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks!
Very nice restoration! Good eye and style!
If I was the one working on this watch.... 2 years later! It when it might get finished. 😮
Excellent craftsmanship
Thanks, Matt!
Really great to save that beautiful time piece . Coooool
you win that from me, I was doing something else following that watch and when I realized was gone, thanks God is in good hands.
Great video
Wasn't expecting to see the barrel removed before the train of wheels. What else odd (to me) is coming up?
There are a lot of things I do differently now vs this video. But for the barrel, in theory the movement was designed so if you had a broken mainspring and nothing else was wrong, you could remove the barrel bridge and slide the barrel out to replace it minimally invasive
Nice!!!
really nice video. where do you find the parts you change, do you have a website ?
Thank you! For this watch I used several different sources since some parts were rarer than others. Cousinsuk, Otto frei, and good ‘ol eBay
Unbelievable that parts are still available for an Watch of 80 years old.
They are harder and harder to source. The minute recorder wheel I had to buy off an Italian eBay store and it took weeks to arrive. But I was extremely grateful to have found it.
Sir : You have lots of old stock spare part ，and luckily they fit this watch ! 😃
How much you paid from eBay ? without spare parts it becomes garbage !
I think it was under $200, but I carefully inspected all the photos to know what was broken before I bought it. Though there were some things I couldn’t see. Landeron components can still be purchased online, but getting expensive.
@@csspinner Yes ，everything are expensive at eBay !
Do you want some constructive criticism regarding your techniques? That's a pretty serious column wheel chronograph movement for a hobbyist/enthusiast.
Constructive critiques are always welcome. Yes, felt a little over my head at times but it was already a junk movement so I didn’t have much to lose. It ended up good in the end and it works well.
@@csspinner
Well so you know, I'm not talking out of my ass, I'm a WOSTEP watchmaker. At no point should bare fingers be touching the movement, regardless whether you will clean it. It's just good practice. Dials too. You should be protecting the hands and dial with a plastic dial protector, Swiss made. Hands shouldn't be pressed on with just anything, hand press tools are good. Even better when you have a proper support for the movement to support the jewel under which stress is placed when fitting the hands, invest in Bergeon tweezers, they will last you a lifetime, if properly maintained. a good screwdriver set if you don't already have one so that it can perfectly fit your screws. I noticed that you were awkwardly holding your screwdriver, just pinch the screwdriver with your 4 fingers and rest your index straight on top of it, it's less straining and will lead to less slippage. When you're washing your movements buy jars with screw on lids or mason jars to prevent your solution from evaporating. That stuff is expensive 😉
@@mr.personal-ity I since purchase a presto hand/canon puller and have been using that in conjunction with the dial protector. However, good point about using a thin sheet to protect the hands. Great advice, I really appreciate it and will implement in upcoming projects.
@@mr.personal-ity I purchased a replacement sweep hand which is supposed to fit very tightly over the pivot. I noticed I could not press hard enough to feel comfortable so I used a stump in my staking set to support the plated directly beneath it. The hand went on fine and no jewel was harmed, however I’m sure there’s a more specific tool for that job.
Impressive restoration. Is it possible from where you bought the parts?
The spare parts were bought from a combination of eBay, ofrei.com and cousinsuk
Looks good!!!
Thank you!
Great job 👍
Thanks, Andrew!
Relògio muito antigo é suisso , precisa muita dedicacion.(Brasil) muito Graciez .
Thanks for the comment
@@csspinner Graciez
How much did it cost?
I think it was around $200 usd
Đồng hồ nữ nhỏ ti mà phục hồi lại OK