Thanks Troy! Camber bolts will help you adjust camber more than what is available with your current setup. If you have adjustable camber plates that are maxed out, you can get more camber with the cammed bolts. You can use camber bolts with or without adjustable camber plates.
Tim question, I just lowered and installed new wheels and tires on my 2020 gt with performance pack, after install I have 3 degrees on negative camber, I was going to install these bolts to do the opposite to add some positive camber to get be back into spec. My handling is slightly off, what do you think??
Had a couple issues with them dislodging. Jaeger Bros sent replacements and said they tweaked the design. They are back on the car and have been surviving track days so far.
Hey there Mr. ShelbyFlyer, how's this setup holding up after a year? I'm heading in this direction on my EcoBoost. Was able to get -2.8 degrees camber out of the Vorshlag plates, no cutting the strut tower (that'd bump me up to a higher SCCA Time Trials class than I want to run). Picking out my spacers and I haven't decided if I want the 3/4" hubcentric slip-on or bolt-on. Any reason you chose one over the other? This is a great video too btw, I think I've watched it at least 3 times. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Pete! 🍻 My setup has been great! Be sure to torque the camber bolts to spec and use blue Loctite. As for spacers, the carbon fiber wheel hubs are thick. That’s what lead me down the path I chose with the 4” wheel studs and 3/4” spacers.
I have a 2013 Boss 302 that has worn the inside of the front tires really bad. I'm wondering if the factory camber is causing it and if camber bolts would help? Thanks for sharing how to install th3m.
Back to one of your videos lol. Got some apex wheels for my base 500 and would like to flush the fronts a bit more with the fender. Due to the hub centric lip on the hub, my spacer options are 5MM or 10 or so and above. To use 12Mm and clear the hub’s centric lip, I know I need extended studs. ( which would look great ). Do you think 12MM spacers and CFTP studs would be enough? Thanks in advice Tim!
You’ll have to do the math Badger. It’s been a few years since I did this. You need to have sufficient threads remaining (lug nut turns). I don’t recall the number… maybe 9…? We have 150 lb ft on the nuts. Don’t short yourself.
@@ShelbyFlyer yea I saw some of the stuff you and the others guys posted on the Forums and I think using CFTP rear studs might be the way to go. They’re approximately 17MM longer than the base front studs, so 17-15 (using 15MM spacer) leaves me with 2MM extra of turns, just gotta make sure the lug nut doesn’t bottom out but it should be fine. Appreciate it man!
@@ShelbyFlyer yessir I saw it. Ended up going with the OP Mustang mid length studs, that should be plenty for the 12MM and still run a close ended lug! Your videos have been a bunch of help, thanks Tim!
Excellent tutorial.. i Learned alot! thanks for using good lighting on the areas of the car that you are working!
Appreciate it! 🍻
That's a cool floor....I actually install them for a living
Thanks! It’s metallic epoxy made to look like water. You must be an artist if you can make floors like that!
Awesome video, I’m a proud owner of a base model gt500 and can’t wait to get her to the track.
Thanks Paul! 🍻 You will have a BLAST at the track! 🤟
Awesome video thanks Tim!
Very interesting and good information for those who really hit the track.
Thank you! 🍻
Good for those who don't as well. Hub maintenance. CF wheel upgrades too.
GREAT vid, GREAT mod, Tim! Well done!!!
Thanks Mr. Fletch!
Great job of explaining everything
Thanks Robert! 🍻
Good job Tim.
Appreciate it.
Very good video. Very thorough. Thank you.
Appreciate it Anthony!
Beautiful car.
Thanks! 🍻
Nice vid , well this bolt help for street alignment I have a gt350 trying help tires last
Thanks Troy! Camber bolts will help you adjust camber more than what is available with your current setup. If you have adjustable camber plates that are maxed out, you can get more camber with the cammed bolts. You can use camber bolts with or without adjustable camber plates.
Tim question, I just lowered and installed new wheels and tires on my 2020 gt with performance pack, after install I have 3 degrees on negative camber, I was going to install these bolts to do the opposite to add some positive camber to get be back into spec. My handling is slightly off, what do you think??
Yes! Camber bolts can correct camber back to normal after lower a car. Be sure to use Loctite and mark them to check for movement.
Thanks for the detailed video. I noticed you don't have your splash guard on the front. Were they an issue when tracking?
Had a couple issues with them dislodging. Jaeger Bros sent replacements and said they tweaked the design. They are back on the car and have been surviving track days so far.
Hey there Mr. ShelbyFlyer, how's this setup holding up after a year? I'm heading in this direction on my EcoBoost. Was able to get -2.8 degrees camber out of the Vorshlag plates, no cutting the strut tower (that'd bump me up to a higher SCCA Time Trials class than I want to run). Picking out my spacers and I haven't decided if I want the 3/4" hubcentric slip-on or bolt-on. Any reason you chose one over the other? This is a great video too btw, I think I've watched it at least 3 times. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Pete! 🍻 My setup has been great! Be sure to torque the camber bolts to spec and use blue Loctite. As for spacers, the carbon fiber wheel hubs are thick. That’s what lead me down the path I chose with the 4” wheel studs and 3/4” spacers.
MSI makes 4” studs that fit on my R. Plus they are stock thread size.
Got a link?
I have a 2013 Boss 302 that has worn the inside of the front tires really bad. I'm wondering if the factory camber is causing it and if camber bolts would help? Thanks for sharing how to install th3m.
Inside edge wear can also be from incorrect toe. Have your alignment checked.
Back to one of your videos lol. Got some apex wheels for my base 500 and would like to flush the fronts a bit more with the fender. Due to the hub centric lip on the hub, my spacer options are 5MM or 10 or so and above. To use 12Mm and clear the hub’s centric lip, I know I need extended studs. ( which would look great ). Do you think 12MM spacers and CFTP studs would be enough?
Thanks in advice Tim!
You’ll have to do the math Badger. It’s been a few years since I did this. You need to have sufficient threads remaining (lug nut turns). I don’t recall the number… maybe 9…? We have 150 lb ft on the nuts. Don’t short yourself.
@@ShelbyFlyer yea I saw some of the stuff you and the others guys posted on the Forums and I think using CFTP rear studs might be the way to go. They’re approximately 17MM longer than the base front studs, so 17-15 (using 15MM spacer) leaves me with 2MM extra of turns, just gotta make sure the lug nut doesn’t bottom out but it should be fine. Appreciate it man!
@@BadgerGT500 I have a video on my channel of the project we did on my buddy’s base model GT500… we swapped in CFTP wheel studs. The rears are a pain.
@@ShelbyFlyer yessir I saw it. Ended up going with the OP Mustang mid length studs, that should be plenty for the 12MM and still run a close ended lug! Your videos have been a bunch of help, thanks Tim!
@@BadgerGT500 Appreciate the feedback! 🍻
Where did you get those red cobra center caps?
A FB friend custom made stick on faces that I glued to center caps and ceramic coated.
But why use bolts when you have get caster camber plates ? I feel bolts just are as good for those who want to track the car often.
The plates or bolts alone won’t get me to where my camber is at -3.4.
So camber make your front wheels go more inside the front fender or out?
Additional negative camber will bend the top of the wheel/tire towards the engine and kick the bottom out away from the engine.