Thanks for these extremely informative teaching video's! I'm a (mostly) retired technician . Most of the 30+ years were at three different dealerships, none were GM, (although I own one) . To me, the shop manual comes up a little short on the description & operation of the RVC/SARVC systems. Thanks to these videos I will be "armed to the teeth" with diagnostic knowledge when I go to test my RVC controlled alternator on my 2003 GMC Envoy (losing charging @ >2900 rpm) and yes, I'm a scope user. Now, as much as I enjoyed this instructor, I picked up on a measurement error. He said, (two different times), that the "L" terminal signal from the PCM operated at 120mhz (MEGA hertz). Now, I think most of us knew what he meant, but for those that didn't know, the actual frequency is 120 Hz. This misinformation obviously could result in someone feeling compelled to raid their child's college funds, and upgrading their O-scope to an expensive 150mhz version, or the new Keysight UXR 110ghz unit @1.3 million $ 🤣🤣 Thanks again guys! Remy Rock's!
Much Thanks to Remy products for uploading this priceless lecture, This kind of quality teaching and knowledge makes me urged to consider their products.
I watched this because I just had to swap out a battery that lost a cell. The new battery stopped holding a charge at about 9 months so I replaced it. I'm a car guy, and have been for years. I added the volt meter to the dash information screen and all it did was confuse me since the voltage was all over the place. This answered my questions about my 2018 Chevrolet Duramax. It's OK, old dog needed to learn new tricks.
Same deal here. I am used to seeing a steady 14.7v. Just replaced my GM battery and decided to bring up the voltmeter screen on the dash to monitor voltage. Bad idea. Watched it go from 12.4v to 14.9v. Seemed like no rhyme or reason. Then I read about GM's 9 charging modes. OMG! I still think this is overkill. It may be adding 1 mile to every gallon of fuel burned, but the lifespan of todays battery has definitely decreased.
@@steadyeddie7453 I agree with the theory of selective charging adding to the live of a battery. I see this in various industrial applications, and it does extend battery life. All of the vehicles charge this way in some way today. But like you it sounds, I've always seen 14.5 ~ 14.8 volts when it is charging and just the battery voltage when it isn't. I am used to a battery voltage when stationary, engine not running, of 12.5 ~ 12.7 volts as a result. I just checked my wife's Subaru and after sitting all night the voltage is 12.2 volts. To me that seems low, but the car starts and everything works fine.
Hello, Thank you for sharing such detailed info! Currently, I am working on a GM (Holden) Captiva CG CX 2.0L Diesel and the charging system has an issue. Vin: KL3CD26RJ9B265679 If you have any information at all for the Known Good outputs for the F and L Terminals, the B+ Terminal, or for the known good output for the alternator, it would be immensely helpful if you could possibly share them, or make a separate video. Thank you again! Kind regards,
Where can I get this "GM book" you referred to at 12:20? I am a recovering mechanic and remember when an alternator was designed to put out 14.7v in any condition, all day long. I find this new technology fascinating. Thanks for the video. Cheers
Thanks for these extremely informative teaching video's! I'm a (mostly) retired technician . Most of the 30+ years were at three different dealerships, none were GM, (although I own one) .
To me, the shop manual comes up a little short on the description & operation of the RVC/SARVC systems.
Thanks to these videos I will be "armed to the teeth" with diagnostic knowledge when I go to test my RVC controlled alternator on my 2003 GMC Envoy (losing charging @ >2900 rpm) and yes, I'm a scope user.
Now, as much as I enjoyed this instructor, I picked up on a measurement error. He said, (two different times), that the "L" terminal signal from the PCM operated at 120mhz (MEGA hertz).
Now, I think most of us knew what he meant, but for those that didn't know, the actual frequency is 120 Hz. This misinformation obviously could result in someone feeling compelled to raid their child's college funds, and upgrading their O-scope to an expensive 150mhz version, or the new Keysight UXR 110ghz unit @1.3 million $ 🤣🤣
Thanks again guys! Remy Rock's!
Thanks. That was very informative with detailed information. Who knew so much went into a alternator.
Much Thanks to Remy products for uploading this priceless lecture, This kind of quality teaching and knowledge makes me urged to consider their products.
Thanks 👍
Great tutorial
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I watched this because I just had to swap out a battery that lost a cell. The new battery stopped holding a charge at about 9 months so I replaced it. I'm a car guy, and have been for years. I added the volt meter to the dash information screen and all it did was confuse me since the voltage was all over the place. This answered my questions about my 2018 Chevrolet Duramax. It's OK, old dog needed to learn new tricks.
Same deal here. I am used to seeing a steady 14.7v. Just replaced my GM battery and decided to bring up the voltmeter screen on the dash to monitor voltage. Bad idea. Watched it go from 12.4v to 14.9v. Seemed like no rhyme or reason. Then I read about GM's 9 charging modes. OMG! I still think this is overkill. It may be adding 1 mile to every gallon of fuel burned, but the lifespan of todays battery has definitely decreased.
@@steadyeddie7453 I agree with the theory of selective charging adding to the live of a battery. I see this in various industrial applications, and it does extend battery life. All of the vehicles charge this way in some way today. But like you it sounds, I've always seen 14.5 ~ 14.8 volts when it is charging and just the battery voltage when it isn't. I am used to a battery voltage when stationary, engine not running, of 12.5 ~ 12.7 volts as a result. I just checked my wife's Subaru and after sitting all night the voltage is 12.2 volts. To me that seems low, but the car starts and everything works fine.
This guy is very sharp & knows the discussed material . I'm just sick at ford...lol
Hello,
Thank you for sharing such detailed info!
Currently, I am working on a GM (Holden) Captiva CG CX 2.0L Diesel and the charging system has an issue.
Vin: KL3CD26RJ9B265679
If you have any information at all for the Known Good outputs for the F and L Terminals, the B+ Terminal, or for the known good output for the alternator, it would be immensely helpful if you could possibly share them, or make a separate video.
Thank you again!
Kind regards,
Where can I get this "GM book" you referred to at 12:20? I am a recovering mechanic and remember when an alternator was designed to put out 14.7v in any condition, all day long. I find this new technology fascinating. Thanks for the video. Cheers
I got a suggestion for GM stop painting the frame and then grounding the harness.
the video image is too poor, you need to fix it more