Wow! When you first said what you were going to do, I thought you were going to just roll the eye around. I was thinking that you were going to heat the end and point bend it. I was like, thats going to seriously change the temper on the spring. I never would have guessed the way you actually did it. I know more now, than I did 30min. ago. Thanks
Thanks Matt! I Love this kind of tech! It keeps hot rodding alive for the guys who either can't afford to, or just don't want to build catalog cars. It keeps the old techniques current. Thanks for videos like this. I'm sure I'll be doing this at some point on one of my projects .
I use a section of channel iron in a press to re/de-arc leafs, just using the press itself, not the point loading of the press brake. I also welded a nut and bolt in the channel to act as a "stop" so I can make consistent bends, but I don't find the leaf always needs the same amount of bend everywhere. Like some of the comments already, I thought a "reverse-eye" meant reversing the eye - makes perfect sense now, that you're just curving the leaf the other way. Cool!
Did a rear A spring the same way. I also chamfered the bottom of the spring ends and cut back the second leaf a little on each end so it doesn’t bind on the eyes.
Now that's some real dedication there. Hours of work just to change the stance an inch or so. Most people would automatically look for an aftermarket piece. Gotta love that you guys employ old-school methods when possible.
I've done many reverse springs that exact way however the last one i reversed, the spring cracked. I'm glad i inspected the reversed spring closely before using it. It could have easily been overlooked.
Great retro example of how to modify that leaf spring. Love the Rockin' tee shirt your buddy was wearing while he was working the press. Thanks for the vid.
Hey Matt, Thank you for the video. I had never seen the added movement you get on the press with the crank handle. That was cool to see another way the "Old School" way things got done.
Cheers Matt, great video, love the 'old school' philosophy. Please keep doing all your videos, pretty soon now I know your channel will go viral. Best wishes from Reading, England.
Having seen this sort of thing done the spring will probably break. They are made red hot and then tempered. Some places 'hammer' them to reset the height but not reverse the spring. Shorten the second and third leaf as they will bind against the eye. And lube the leaves or they will rust together and generally be terrible. Plain grease is good but messy and you have to do it semi regularly. The reason all modern leaves have nylon spacers though that will raise the ride height a bit. Tapering the end of the leaves helps ride quality as well Most OEM springs have been made like that for decades. That style of spring is a trailer spring!!
Nice work. Didn't realise it could be done like that. I just dropped mine off to the spring guy and picked it up! I smoothed off the inside ends of the leaves to stop them digging in and put teflon liner between them.
A few tips Bend between the marks every second pass Don't bent on the eye hole to avoid a crack Overbend it a little because they always settle a bit Watch that your arch is uniform side to side. Old springs tend to settle to the torque side of the car. All old car guys know and see this. Hope this helps
I had thought about the reverse eye spring but on mine the next leaf curved around the eye end, so taking out the third largest leaf dropped the front perfectly and gave the car a little better ride, and thanks again for the advice, I feel more confident driving it now and safe.
That was cool Matt, I’ve never seen a spring reverse arched cold before. I thought you were going to take it to a local blacksmith. Every day is a school day. Thanks for sharing from the U.K. 👍
Matt, thanks for doing a video like this showing the old technique for making a reverse eye spring. I learned something new and never thought this was how it was done. Not sure what the re-shaping of the metal does to spring rate of that leaf but I suppose with the support of the other 6-7 leafs it does not cause any noticeable difference in ride.
Yes, I know this is over a year later... but to answer your question of what the reshaping of the metal does to the spring rate - in theory, it detracts from it and the spring may not retain the new shape for long due to the changing of the grain structure that was established during the original tempering process. In other words, that leaf is reduced in strength and ability to bounce back to the 'new' established shape. Since that single leaf is backed up by other leaves, that shouldn't matter as long as the reshaped leaf doesn't crack and break. How long will it last? It's hard to say but I'd be more concerned with a crack & break as opposed to a sag problem. One thing is for sure, if it were my ride then I'd be keeping a regular eye on it, looking for signs of failure. Peace out & happy 4th!
Any concern with the 2nd and 3rd longest leaves binding with the main leaf when they might contact the main leaf eyes as you apply a load? It looks like you should either remove or shorten those first two leaves so they don't contact the spring eye as the suspension compresses.
I had a blacksmith reverse the spring eyes, he heated the eyes straightened and rolled the eyes took about 10 to 20 minutes start to finish and lasted many,many years spring never broke no problems at all seems like an easier way.
Once the reverse is done and all seems correct do you clean them up and paint them? Also do you put graffiti between the leads to eliminate sweeps? Looks good.
I did smoth the surfaces and put a little grease on to make them flex easier. I also had cut 1/2 inch off each leaf because they had made a groove where they sit.
I thought they were done with a buck for the curve and a jig to hold the two ends and let them move back and forth, it’s so cool to see it done manually like this
We like to show all methods of hot rodding. Checkbook hot rodding is probably quicker and easier but this is also good to show for the guys that are on a super budget or want to use as many “old” parts as possible.
Besides, other than re-using a Ford original part, you can also use original Ford type spring shackles without having to mess around with custom bushings. Most early Ford spring eyes are actually 11/16" diameter, versus the aftermarket standard these days of 3/4" eyes. #/4" eyes are great if you wish to run modern Pete & Jakes type shackles, but not nearly as fun with early Ford stuff.
@williamday6637 Quenching & tempering restores the original springlike state. The first thing a spring shop would do is to anneal an original spring then proceed with reshaping it followed by quenching & tempering. One might think that annealing would occur during heating in the furnace but a true anneal requires drawing down the temp to ambient temp or close to it before reheating once again to reshape. Happy 4th 2023!
And another garage business is founded (back in the day)..."and Jim's dad has an acetylene torch so we can drop the front axle just like in the magazine picture"... LOL Built not bought!!!
Wow! When you first said what you were going to do, I thought you were going to just roll the eye around. I was thinking that you were going to heat the end and point bend it.
I was like, thats going to seriously change the temper on the spring.
I never would have guessed the way you actually did it.
I know more now, than I did 30min. ago.
Thanks
I was thinking the same thing!
If you like things that are difficult and old, then you'll love my old lady !
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂👍👍👍
Thanks Matt! I Love this kind of tech! It keeps hot rodding alive for the guys who either can't afford to, or just don't want to build catalog cars. It keeps the old techniques current. Thanks for videos like this. I'm sure I'll be doing this at some point on one of my projects
.
I use a section of channel iron in a press to re/de-arc leafs, just using the press itself, not the point loading of the press brake. I also welded a nut and bolt in the channel to act as a "stop" so I can make consistent bends, but I don't find the leaf always needs the same amount of bend everywhere. Like some of the comments already, I thought a "reverse-eye" meant reversing the eye - makes perfect sense now, that you're just curving the leaf the other way. Cool!
Did a rear A spring the same way. I also chamfered the bottom of the spring ends and cut back the second leaf a little on each end so it doesn’t bind on the eyes.
Agreed,the minute I saw it on the bench I could see that second leaf was already gonna bind on the ring ends - so no flex in the spring at all.
Yup needs second and third spring cut back at least 1 inch on each side
I was thinking the same thing on preventing the next leaves from binding on the eyes!
Correct correct. Forgot to mention that in the video.
@@IronTrapGarage you would have known it the minute you put the spring back on the car... Sitting all gasser style... ;-)
Now that's some real dedication there. Hours of work just to change the stance an inch or so. Most people would automatically look for an aftermarket piece. Gotta love that you guys employ old-school methods when possible.
I've done many reverse springs that exact way however the last one i reversed, the spring cracked. I'm glad i inspected the reversed spring closely before using it. It could have easily been overlooked.
Great retro example of how to modify that leaf spring.
Love the Rockin' tee shirt your buddy was wearing while he was working the press.
Thanks for the vid.
Hey Matt,
Thank you for the video.
I had never seen the added movement you get on the press with the crank handle.
That was cool to see another way the "Old School" way things got done.
Cheers Matt, great video, love the 'old school' philosophy.
Please keep doing all your videos, pretty soon now I know your channel will go viral.
Best wishes from Reading, England.
Wow! That technique was nothing like I thought it'd be. I learned something today!! Thanx guys!!
That was an exceptionally illuminating video on how to apply old school skills in doing something yourself. Really enjoyed that !!! :)
Having seen this sort of thing done the spring will probably break. They are made red hot and then tempered. Some places 'hammer' them to reset the height but not reverse the spring. Shorten the second and third leaf as they will bind against the eye.
And lube the leaves or they will rust together and generally be terrible. Plain grease is good but messy and you have to do it semi regularly. The reason all modern leaves have nylon spacers though that will raise the ride height a bit. Tapering the end of the leaves helps ride quality as well Most OEM springs have been made like that for decades. That style of spring is a trailer spring!!
The old machines can do the job if a little art and skill is used, as you show.
mornin matt love the old school way back to basics on the cheap have a hotrod day
learn something new every day
Nice work. Didn't realise it could be done like that. I just dropped mine off to the spring guy and picked it up! I smoothed off the inside ends of the leaves to stop them digging in and put teflon liner between them.
I used to watch my Grandfather do that when I was a kid, cool process.
Hey Matt, do you need to shorten the next leaf, i looks like it might bind with the eye once there is weight on the spring?
Correct.
A few tips
Bend between the marks every second pass
Don't bent on the eye hole to avoid a crack
Overbend it a little because they always settle a bit
Watch that your arch is uniform side to side. Old springs tend to settle to the torque side of the car. All old car guys know and see this.
Hope this helps
Morning Matt!! Another awesome "how to" video, keep them coming!!
God Bless!!
Matt a simple solution but very complex and time consuming if you want it done right! Thanks for sharing. Kevin
Dig it, Matt !!! Thanks ITG team. Always look forward yo your uploads.
I had thought about the reverse eye spring but on mine the next leaf curved around the eye end, so taking out the third largest leaf dropped the front perfectly and gave the car a little better ride, and thanks again for the advice, I feel more confident driving it now and safe.
That was cool Matt, I’ve never seen a spring reverse arched cold before. I thought you were going to take it to a local blacksmith. Every day is a school day.
Thanks for sharing from the U.K. 👍
I always wondered how they did the reverse. Thanks Matt.
Good job! I did one years ago with the instructions of a friend, but with the 5 pound hammer and big wood block!
Matt, thanks for doing a video like this showing the old technique for making a reverse eye spring. I learned something new and never thought this was how it was done. Not sure what the re-shaping of the metal does to spring rate of that leaf but I suppose with the support of the other 6-7 leafs it does not cause any noticeable difference in ride.
Yes, I know this is over a year later... but to answer your question of what the reshaping of the metal does to the spring rate - in theory, it detracts from it and the spring may not retain the new shape for long due to the changing of the grain structure that was established during the original tempering process. In other words, that leaf is reduced in strength and ability to bounce back to the 'new' established shape. Since that single leaf is backed up by other leaves, that shouldn't matter as long as the reshaped leaf doesn't crack and break. How long will it last? It's hard to say but I'd be more concerned with a crack & break as opposed to a sag problem. One thing is for sure, if it were my ride then I'd be keeping a regular eye on it, looking for signs of failure. Peace out & happy 4th!
Neat tip to use old stuff.
This is an Awesone video , Matt. never new this is what it takes to reverse the eyes!
Brilliant!!! ... I would have never thought of that.
Thanks
Donnie
Any concern with the 2nd and 3rd longest leaves binding with the main leaf when they might contact the main leaf eyes as you apply a load? It looks like you should either remove or shorten those first two leaves so they don't contact the spring eye as the suspension compresses.
Yep I think someone was playing around with the leaf pack years ago.
Pretty amazing to see what you can do with basic tools!
Nice. Interesting effort, great result.
I had a blacksmith reverse the spring eyes, he heated the eyes straightened and rolled the eyes took about 10 to 20 minutes start to finish and lasted many,many years spring never broke no problems at all seems like an easier way.
That was cool Matt, I never knew it was done that way.
One thing I didn't see you check was the left to right height. Mount the leaf in the middle and make sure each eye was the same height.
Awesome. I didn't even know you could do that.
Awesome. Thanks for sharing the process.
cool process. loved the video. thanks for sharing.
It seems that there is now a point of greater stress where the eye is right up close to the end of the second leaf. Is this of concern?
I believe they'll need to trim those leaves back so that they don't bind on the eyelets.
Once the reverse is done and all seems correct do you clean them up and paint them? Also do you put graffiti between the leads to eliminate sweeps? Looks good.
I did smoth the surfaces and put a little grease on to make them flex easier. I also had cut 1/2 inch off each leaf because they had made a groove where they sit.
I thought they were done with a buck for the curve and a jig to hold the two ends and let them move back and forth, it’s so cool to see it done manually like this
Yesterday I didn’t know what a reversed eye spring was, now I are one.
Great lesson for today , but I think you need to shorten the second and third leaf, Thanks ....Jim
Correct.
The old school way. Very interesting.
Great job and video 👍👍🇨🇱
Great technique!
Very interesting
Would using the English wheel work? Or is the spring too stiff for that.
Did you end up having to trim the 1st 2 leafs?
That was awesome
Or you can just buy a reversed eye main leaf from Old Yankee Speed 😁
Then that wouldn't be a Henry Ford original part, and too easy for Matt.
This was free
We like to show all methods of hot rodding. Checkbook hot rodding is probably quicker and easier but this is also good to show for the guys that are on a super budget or want to use as many “old” parts as possible.
By the way that old press was cool AF with that ratcheting bar. "We don't need no stinking hydraulics"!!
Besides, other than re-using a Ford original part, you can also use original Ford type spring shackles without having to mess around with custom bushings. Most early Ford spring eyes are actually 11/16" diameter, versus the aftermarket standard these days of 3/4" eyes. #/4" eyes are great if you wish to run modern Pete & Jakes type shackles, but not nearly as fun with early Ford stuff.
how much endplay is needed on the second spring to clear the reversed eye under compression
Then I learned something new today.
do you have a fine calibration pressure gage on the press.
How does this effect the strength of the spring?
Might want to ask a metallurgist for the exact scientific answer.
The Schroll is going to be somewhat fast I wouldn't make the car handle bad just to get a certain look.
I think a real spring shop would throw the whole spring in the furnace, press the arch the other way, and then quench it.
That would destroy the springiness/temper.
@@threynolds2 Proper quenching brings it back just like it did during its first quench
@williamday6637 Quenching & tempering restores the original springlike state. The first thing a spring shop would do is to anneal an original spring then proceed with reshaping it followed by quenching & tempering. One might think that annealing would occur during heating in the furnace but a true anneal requires drawing down the temp to ambient temp or close to it before reheating once again to reshape. Happy 4th 2023!
👍😎👍
And another garage business is founded (back in the day)..."and Jim's dad has an acetylene torch so we can drop the front axle just like in the magazine picture"... LOL
Built not bought!!!
Heating springs isn't a good thing also stupid
Olds V8 weighs 735 lbs. Flathead not so much.