How To Tear Down An Early Ford Front Axle - Tips and Tricks!!!
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- Опубликовано: 9 янв 2021
- Now that the frame has been sand blasted and repaired, it's time to turn our attention to the front axle. The Schroll 32 Ford sat outside for many years and the front suspension is in need of some attention. Matt shows all of his tips and tricks for taking apart stubborn Early Ford front axles. These tips can be applied to a lot of antique cars that used a similar front end assembly. Matt makes it look easy and breezes through the tear down, but stops along the way to show off his secrets. Let us know in the comments if this video was helpful!!!
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- Eastwood 1000ft/lbs 1/2" Drive Impact - www.eastwood.com/eastwood-1-2...
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Hey Matt
This was an adventure I have been on many times !
You got lucky on every part !
I have had to totally distroy the spring hanger a time or two to get it out of the axle.
But that is how it is with these old parts getting new life put back into them.
Good Video, Thanx.
Be Safe and Well
EVERYBODY
Another great video Matt. I remember my father replacing the king pins in his 51 F1 pickup. He had a special reamer to size the new bushings.
Yep we’ll be doing that soon!
King pin reaming,, that is a job for experts. Looks so easy with people who do it all the time. But is not! IF that axle was ok use the original king pins. Or ream the existing bushes oversize. Beats changing the bushings. Place I worked 50 years ago used to do as changeover ones.
Well, this was a convenient video. It actually convinced me to NOT do this job myself but, take it to a rod shop and have them dismantle it all for me. Great video, I'm going to have to invest in some "heat" and BFGs, drifts and chisels - none of which I had any need for over the past 10 years of wrenching on my own and friends Harleys.
I never did a front end that old, but I do remember replacing king pins on old Ford trucks. First time was hard, then once I knew how to do it and the right tools it got easier... Without the right tools or a torch it can be a nightmare...
So true!
I got my drag link sockets from Sears back in the day.
I still have mine, too!
Heat 'em and beat 'em for spring perches is usually the way!
Oh the smell of burning old grease! Glad to hear you are taking it to the next level
Oh what a smell!
Thanks for this video. Helped me a lot. Had a seized locking pin. Tried everything, BFH, penetrating oils, finally drilled the pin, carbide burr to open hole up and then air hammered it right out. Didn't think of the air hammer until watched your video.
Glad it helped! Heat usually does the trick and won’t require drilling!
Love the "jackstands"...I remember my grandpa using those in his repair shop when I was little😄
We keep it oldschool as much as we can around here!
ITG- I'm not into fords or hotrods really but I love anything old especially with local history. You have tremendous passion for the hobby and it shows. I've watched every vid for the last year, thanks for the entertainment.
Thanks so much for watching!
Tips and tricks...we appreciate!
amazing show today matt
Thanks for watching!
Wow! I wish I had seen this video a few years ago (when I took the front end of my Forty apart). I didn't have to remove the spring perches, but I did do the king pins, etc. Seeing this very clear video showing how the front end is put together would have made things much easier. Absolutely great video!
This reminds me of the time a good friend and I drove my Model A to Lebanon Valley Speedway one night and broke the wishbone. We drove home without using brakes and swapped out the front axle and were on the road the next day.Thanks for the video.
Haha that had to be a wild ride!
As my buddy used to say, "when in doubt, burn it out" lol
Haha amen!
Love this stuff .. the rust gods are smiling down on you 😎
When all else fails, reach for the gas axe 👍. To be fair Matt, considering how long it’s been stood, it all came apart pretty easily. I think the Ford gods were on your side.
Geof (U.K.)🇬🇧🇺🇸
It was definitely a lot easier than I expected!
Got mine apart quite easily! Only real hang-up were the two wishbone bolts but a some penetrant, map gas, and an impact got them apart. Thanks again for the video, that allowed me to go into this with confidence!
The best part about the whole process is that it's done. I don't miss working on the old rusted cars, I would rather watch someone else do it. I used to love it until you get beat up enough. Then you start looking for other old crap to fix that you don't get beat up as much. Great Job.
I’m about to be taking apart a complete drop axle that had been in a desert field auction. So I’m sure the story will come. I’ll update after I do it. Thanks for the video.
Awesome good luck with it!
that was fun watching you tear that down. Your good at it. As always great video.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the tips and tricks of getting one of these apart ! Looking forward to the next step ! Take care , stay safe and healthy with whatever you maybe doing next ! Doing well here .
Thanks for watching!
I'm glad that you are " restoring " the car, that green will look great!!!!!!
Awesome video! Great info for when I tackle the front axle on the roadster. Also dig those rear axle bell stands!
Thanks for watching! Hope it helps!
Matt: Can I offer a correction? The kingpin lock bolt holes are parallel 9/16". They are not tapered. You can clean them out with a 9/16" drill and the axle can be fitted either way around. You did a great job. I'm really impressed with the air punch. The top tip that makes things easier is to use heat and have the axle upside down, as you showed. Mart in the UK.
Thanks for the correction. My terminology isn’t always correct just a dummy with a welder and a torch.
@@IronTrapGarage I used a small "dingle ball on mine.
I wish the front end of my Model A came apart as easily as that. Awesome video!
Oil, Air tools, and Heat. These are definitely what you need to tear apart one of these rusted relics. The old I beams take a lot of abuse but are so useable and cool looking. Great instruction.
Thanks for watching!
This springtime I need to do kingpins on my ‘41 Ford, now I see just what I need to take apart.
Glad it helped! Good luck!
I'm an old guy and when I get problem axles I sell them to young guys and buy the best condition I can find! Lol I too old for that stuff anymore!😊😅 I hurt myself just watching you on RUclips!
Old junk sure can be pretty stuck together after 70 yrs!...heat is always your best friend.
Hey Matt great tips and seem to come apart fairly easy .👍
A harbor freight ball joint press might work in place of the ford tool to remove those bolts you had to use the drift on
I could have used this, about 6 months ago. My 28 had the king pin bolt large nut broke off at some point before I got.it and I decided to fix it and do new king pins. That bolt was about 8 hours of random heat drilling, impact chisel and pounding to get one side all the way down lol
Dang that sounded like a mess!
It was, but it was two afternoons in the barn playing with an old Ford. Kids climbing in and out of the rumble seat and I would take it again in a heartbeat
Excellent video, very thorough yet fast paced. I need to do this to my 31' Model A in preparation for a drop-axle. So glad to see what I'm getting into before I do it. Think I'll start hitting all components with penetrant in advance!
I have spent better part of a week doing this before. Thanks for the great content. Ron
Pro tip
12 point sockets work for square head bolts😉👍
You can buy actual square bolt sockets.
@@robertbak4108
Yes - 8 point sockets, but why buy another set that you'll rarely use? Not that 12 points get a lot of use, but at least you can use them on standard 6 point bolts in a pinch, or 12 point bolts (like some universal strap bolts) when they come up. The 8 pointers will just collect dust in a corner of your shop until they hit the scrap bin because you're tired of lookin at them😉
Good tip!
Those perch pin nuts are the same thread size as a rear axle nut so I've used a cheap knock off tool instead of the castle nuts, thread it almost tight before using the BFH or impact driver. It's also the same size as the steering wheel nut on these early Fords. Nice informative video for a maybe not easy job.
Great tips!’
@@IronTrapGarage Another way:
Add a socket on the air hammer and beat the nut down, little by little .You won't tater the top of the bolt that way.
I'm just about to tackle thst same job. I'm new to early Ford steel but im loving every minute of learning about them. This video was very informative! Thanks!
Come apart fairly easily. Thanks for the video.
I was gonna' say that came apart WAYYYYYY' too easy, then I noticed the clothing change. 😆 Well done. Kinda' surprising that car still had Ford specs castle nuts on the spindles. Well, to me, anyway. Guess that's the bulk of my past frustrations .. taking those apart. Never had castle nuts and cotter pins to back off of those. Always whatever they replaced them with.
Good video, never seen straight axle torn apart before,
Gonna eventually start working on rebuilding some front axles for the 64 to 70 g10 chevy vans, soon as I can find places to get all the parts for them.
Looks like this one wasn't too bad. I have done many Model A axles (basically the same) that required "heat & beat" for hours. The air hammer & jet wrench are invaluable. Great job!
Thanks for more quality shop time.
Great video! loving the direction for the coupe also!
As always Matt, thanks! Great info & tricks
Thanks for watching!
Hey Matt,
Looks like the old Ford goods approve your actions today.
My favorite penetrating oil is 1/3 ATF 2/3 mineral spirits (K1 kerosene). And if I know I will be taking something apart, I will start soaking it with penetrating oil weeks ahead of time if possible. Just everytime I walk past it, or think about it, I'll give it a squirt. Time is your friend with penetrating oil.
Another trick to protect your bolts is to build up a bronze pad on the end of your drift with braze.
Great tips!
@@IronTrapGarage heat first, then stand back with your choice of penetrant. It SHOCKS the metal into submission. Water works, too.
Great video !!!! I learned so much!!!!! Thanks for keeping the flame of Hot Rodding alive and well in 2021. I appreciate all of your time, dedication, and commitment. I need to buy your new calendar for the new year. Thank you so much!!!!
Great video you know what your doing that’s for sure. I know I’ll have a 30’s Ford one day. Can’t wait for Tuesday’s video ty Steve
Hey Matt, great educational video, we need as many as possible. No real brakes required until you have a hot flathead lol. Thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
After watching this I can only imagine how many times you've gotten a Ford brand taking these axles apart.
Never actually! Believe it or not!
@@IronTrapGarage you're either very careful or very lucky ! Lol
I got a bucket of those spring perches with messed up threads from old demos. Have no idea why I've keep them. Sometimes they are impossible to save. If you get them too hot they will mushroom in the axle.
Yep have had that problem when using a press too. Hard to tell how much force you’re putting on them with a press until it’s too late..
I rebuilt my 29 Chevy axle and frame , pretty much the same except Chevy used two length wise leaf springs not a wishbone , but when I started the axle looked like it was smiling ,in checking looked as it should more or less be straight but no spec. so I ended up rebuilding the axle with the spindles then taking it to a truck frame shop and they cold bent it to a commend sense angle that gave good spindle angles , seems in the day if you got stuck a popular spot to hook on was the axle and could bend it out of shape , good to check it out , it could play hell with your steering , also spring mounts on the frame important for the car to track straight . Bill
Great one, Matt! :-D
Looking forward to getting into my axles.
Great video. I'm not new to old cars but somewhat new to early style Fords. This gives me a good idea what I might get into with my 42 Lincoln Continental.
Totally awesome instructional, loved the step by step!!😎
Thanks for watching!
garages replaced the shoe material back then (asbestos laden) not the replacement shoes. Garages re riveted new brake pad material to the existing shoes. I saw roll of it many many years ago and asked my Dad what the heck it was. Dont know what happened to the material but I am pleased we dont see rivet grooves in the drums. humbly not sure why Matt... Thanks for being Brilliant.
Donnie
love the axle tube jack stands
Excellent video ! In this vid the king pin gods were smiling down on you ! I just spent a full afternoon recently taking the king pins out of a Model A axle. One side came out easily but the other side was rusted in and needed to be soaked with Kroil and then loosened up with an 18" pipe wrench to break it loose so it would turn. After I got it to turn, I put a hydraulic jack under the king pin with a socket pushing on the king pin then applied the fire wrench to try and get it to pop. Still no luck so put more pressure on it with the hydraulic jack until the weight of that side of the car was supported by the king pin and then left it. After soaking with more Kroil periodically over the next 24 hours I tried the pipe wrench on the top of the king pin to try and work it out of the axle until it finally popped loose.
Another great video. 👍
Matt: I have noticed in your last two videos, your new BFH (Blue Finishing Hammer) has been key to the disassembly of the 32! Perhaps it should be marketed as the Thor's Hammer of Hot Rod building!
The Persuader!
Haha that would be a good name for it!
@@IronTrapGarage I use one with room for TWO hands.
Awesome video Matt,
Thanks Dave!
Oh man. When I broke apart the front end on my '47, the god damn castle nuts for the spring perches basically broke apart at the "castle" bit. Didnt have enough nut to grab onto to spin them out. Long story short, had to have a buddy come by with his torch and burn them out with such finesse. What a damn nightmare. I feel like I'm having Vietnam flashbacks just talking about it. Thanks matt, my therapist will be in touch. Hahaha
Haha I have done that a few times it SUCKS! Not other good way than burning them out like you said!
Matt, it looks, like you had a lot of fun, i can't wait to do my first one 😁
Great save. Sand blast it. Paint it. Thanks for posting. Great video.
Does Matt have one?
That’s the plan! Have the stuff off to a friend to blast now!
I had to heat the king pins and jack them out with a press. Finally fixed it though.
Awesome tutorial. Thank you 🙏...... 👍👍😎👍👍
This is super helpful, I'm starting a 1940 Ford Gasser project and want to use as much of the original stuff I can. I too am a cheap ass.
Glad it helped!
Great video, there is so much good info and instruction here! Horror story - Iwas re-doing the front beam axle for my 65 Chevy van (pretty much a similar setup as this just with parallel leaf springs) and could not budge the kingpins. I ended up taking them to a local trusted old-school machine shop, it took a lot of heat and every bit of a 25-ton hydraulic press to get the pins out. They also had to ream out the bushings.
Dang! Yea they can get really stuck! That one was bad!
Ford Steel is good, because it was Chrome-Vanadium ,which was an invention of his scientists and Engineers .It makes the steel tougher and more ductile at the same time. This is why better spanners used to have it written on them and if you have ever seen one of those' modern' drop axles that's been in an accident you will see that they snap ,rather than bend like Ford originals do.
Do true! Saw that happen to a friends axle recently!
Tried taking my kingpins off while the axle was in the car and just in jack stands BFH hammering up with no swing room was a nightmare.
Also f'd up.perch bolts a few months later taking them out to install a drop axle. Had to find a good used one. NOS super expensive ended up finding a friend who had a torched in half axle and wanted the wishbone. Got the perch bolts for free if i did the removal work and have home back the wishbone. 46-48 perch bolts are specific to those years and not reproduced. Kept the axle chunks might make a shift knob out of one of the pieces.
Hi Matt, I find that the spring perches come out easier if you turn them when the axle is hot. We used a big spud wrench handle through the spring perch, but anything that fits in the hole will work. After you turn them, they come out easy and you don’t risk the threads.
That’s a good method for sure
Nice Video. #STAYSAFE
Okay Hulk, hold my beer... FLAME ON!!
Matt u have 2 magna flux that spindle 2 b on safe side find some 1 2 xray it tip on torch put head up with narbs 2 lay flat on floor or make a stand 4 cut and rose bud good luck
What? I have no idea what you just said! Next time try complete sentences, spelling and punctuation.
I took a spring ahead of axle set up apart once that gave me all kinds of trouble removing the wishbone bolts. I tried everything and could not get them to budge. Finally I had to drill them out gradually increasing the size of the drill untill the bolt became very thin in the bore and then it would drive out. I think I spent three evenings after work taking than rotten thing apart.
Morning Matt, another great "How to" video, it was kinda ironic that you used a pair of early Ford axle tubes for jack stands, when I was young every mechanic shop you went into had these. I found a pair at a flea market a few summer's ago...had to have them, are you planning on keeping the same front axle drop? Just curious....be safe, God Bless!!
Yep they were common place before modern Jack stands came into play! Yep keeping the 32 axle
@@IronTrapGarage thanks for the response Matt!!
@@IronTrapGarage Hey Matt, we received our new 2021 calendar & ball cap today..the ball cap( or truckers cap as you call it) is nice.
Once you had the spring loose on one side use it to turn the spring perch with the lube and it may eliminate the heat.
No way are you just turning it with no heat when they’re this stuck.
First time I performed this tedious job on my '36 was about '65 so my memory is a bit fuzzy. About to do it
again after dropping the axle this time, along w/ some "fine tuning" on the spring. Without heat & air tools,
it's an ugly job, made even worse if you live in the Rust Belt! Thanks for the re-fresher.....
I learn something every time I watch your videos. Like today I now know what colour that chartreuse minivan is in than song Convoy lol
Just kidding love the videos and thanks for the tip on the kingpin retainer bolts and how to knock them out , I’ve drilled them out in the past and that was no fun.
Thanks for watching!
INTERESTING...SO WHEN IS THE NEXT CHAPTER????
You should make a collage of Matt's laughs...
Thank you for this video! I'm building a hot rod and bought two original '37 ford axles. Complete with wishbones, steering links, spring, spindles, drums, etc. A lot of people say the old forged spindles are better than anything you can buy today. Is there any reason I should shy away from using these round back '37 spindles instead of buying reproduction new? Do you guys ever have any issues re-using old? What do you look for?
Grove green is going to be sweet. That’s the color I wish my ‘56 Merc was. But instead I’ve got Saffron Yellow on Tuxedo Black.
It’s definitely a very “50’s” color!
it's gonna look great in that green. perhaps with an ivory white firewall, interior, or other areas?
White interior, roof insert, etc!
not so much heat and Soake with penetrating oil also works ,less damage , 40+ years of getting rusty things out
Less damage? I didn’t damage anything. Heating doesn’t hurt anything if you know how much to add.
had a model a axle that one hole in axle was worn out,never saw a fix for that,just bushings for spindles,so I ended up getting another axle.
All ways a fun job.
Have a friend who is doing a 35 or 36 pickup. While taking the wishbones off the axles (sorry I know the nominclacher), he stripped both nuts coming off. One of the spring perches' is salvageable, and the other is stripped bad (might be able to weld and rethread) but both nuts are junk. How available are the nuts and bracket assemblies?
The first one I did I used basically the same method, however there was way more swearing involved. LOL Good video Matt.
Hahah yea swearing is always involved to some degree!
I vote for Brewster Green.
The car wasn’t that color. So not an option
It needs a flat head or y-block. I just like to keep a Ford, GM etc. matching as they should.
Does heating the axle change the temper or have any negative effects?
Not unless you heat to molten/cherry red. If you let it naturally cool it returns back to its natural state. This is the method people have been using for over 100 years.
Would of been cool if you would of shown us the difference, between the 32 parts and model A. Good work.
That would be a separate video.
I just had to do this same thing with a '40 axle, all went well except for one perch pin(homemade spring perches), of coarse i mushroomed the threads like i was warned not to, finally got it out using the top of spring perch in a vise with the axle inverted, cut the mushroom off, add heat and use the axle to twist the pin back and forth, gaining a 1/8" each per heat up, its tedious
Also, found something weird, '40 backing plates welded to the spindles, outer round flange of the spindles( and bolt holes) ground off then inner round flange welded to backing plate, backing plate holes brazed closed, steering arms removed.
Has anyone seen this before?
Thanks for the video.
Wow that sounds like a tough one! Never seen the welded backing plate!
👍
What is the difference between a standard and a '32 heavy axle?
The shape/look of it is the main thing. Hard to explain without showing side by side
If the car gig doesn't work out, you could break pavement for the city.
Spring spreader !!!
Hey Matt,, my wife won't let me use a BFH,, I always had to use a BDH...LOL
LARGE air hammer is a good tool! I sold mine.
Hey Matt my name is James Stumpf yup spelled the same way avid car collector and Motorcycle collector I probably have some information on your family history as mine goes back to 1220.
17generations If you want contact me back spend some time over in Germany in the Air Force did the genealogy in the 90s your family most likely came from the town at Eberbach in Germany