I'm pretty new to machining, and currently only CNC I have is an old Fadal mill. Watching your videos though really makes me want to get a Mazak lathe, as the conversational programming looks incredibly powerful. Just need to try to find a small enough one to fit in my shop, without having to add on (again). Thanks for the great content, and very clear teaching!
I love Mazatrol so much I bought two of them for my home hobby shop, which is where I make the videos. I wish I could afford a much newer one but these are working for now. Thanks for the comments.
The other good thing about owning a Mazak CNC is pretty much all the spare parts are still available from Mazak directly. Also plenty of these machine out there to source spare parts from if needed ?? There are some smaller size lathes if you need them but you might run into trouble machining larger pieces. The size goes all the way down to QT6 which is a fairly small size if you need a smaller machine. I am currently rebuilding a 1990 model QT15 which has a fairly small footprint for it,s capabilities 8"/200 mm chuck, 2 axis, 20 Hp spindle, which is enough if you already own a Fadal Mill. The floor area is around 8 feet / 2500 mm in length x 6 feet 1800 mm wide. As you already know fairly easy to program which is great for guys like me that prefer to program at the controller.
@@weldmachine i woudn't bet on it mazak parts are expensive they're mitsubishi parts and THEY ARE EXPENSIVE to replace id recommend buying an okuma for people who are starting out then buy a well maintained with updated software mazak after
@@christophercolumbus8944 Machine parts are generally expensive, especially Genuine Parts. Most know this when buying Automotive Spares. The main concern is ? Are the Spare Parts available ??? When items are plentiful. Price are generally lower ?? But, this changes as the items become less available. Buying Genuine Mazak parts are much the same as In the Automotive industry. But, in most cases no one makes Non Genuine Spare Parts for Machine Tools ??? It's either buy Genuine or shop around and see If anyone has ex stock Machine Spares or, take your chances with Second Hand ??? Larger businesses will buy Spares for different machines and off load them as they don't require the parts. I was able to pick up a fair few items this way. But, it can be tough finding Spares for Older Equipment regardless of brands. The good part of buying Mazak parts is they rarely change the internal running parts of the machine. Other manufacturers do something similar. But, I have found Mazak try to keep the same internals for longer. Some might say this is just laziness. That's a popular attitude to have when things are brand new. But, try finding matching parts on Machines that are 10, 20 plus years old ??? Okuma do make great machines. It comes down to what you are familiar with, and Who and Where is your local dealer. Not much point in buying a Mazak IF the local dealer is 500 kilometres away and your HAAS or Okuma dealer is 20 minutes away. This is the biggest concern when buying new Machinery. Where is your support located ??
@@weldmachine man you are a talker cnc machines are not cars if you buy an okuma everything is okuma when you buy mazak you got mitsubishi controls drives all the batteries but again they both should last a long time
Great video!! It would be great if you did more live tooling videos. In my career I didn't use the live tooling that often and it would be great if you can do more videos.
Thanks for doing this. As u know, I'm not a mazak expert here but have been milling for over 2 decades. Only diff I would do is in the end mill process, I'd go full depth of cut on Z axis but take about 3 steps on the radial depth of cut. Hopefully U will get a better finish.
I agree with you, but unfortunately this old controller will not allow me to take different radial depths of cut--only axial cuts. The only way I could make your method work is to have 3 separate processes one for each radial cut. Newer machines have more cutting options. The T-3 control was Mazak's very first C-axis lathe control. The finish problem I am having is because the bearings in my milling holders are shot and need to be replaced.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 Wow, so its worth speaking up. I wouldn't have thought the machine has that limitation. Will a T32-3 controller allow radial depth of cut moves? It's only about 7 years younger than your machine.
@@joeshmoe5935 I cannot say because I've never ran a T32 controller before. I ran the T+ and now the Smooth X control. I didn't have many practice examples on the T+
Hey Phil. Very envious of you owning a C axis machine. This is the only thing missing from my wish list for a CNC Lathe, that and a Sub Spindle. I can live without Y axis i have a mill for that. This is the only 2 things that would push me to buy a new machine. Maybe in my next life, LOL. Thanks for posting these video,s always interested in any Mazak. All the best. Peter.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 When you have time you must get around to showing us your other machine in one of your video,s. Would be interested to see. Is it a QT or SQT series ? Thanks your reply.
My other machine is a 1987 Mazak ST30 ATC/MC. It has a 15" chuck on it and the machine is 13.5 feet long. I was going to do a shop tour video but I have not cleaned up in a while so it looks like a disaster area at the moment.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 LOL. Sounds like my machine when i purchased it. Looked terrible ???? But under all rhe ugly bits it is a great machine. Just needed some Love. I would have liked to buy new but can not justify it with the volume of turning work that I do.
thanks alot, that alot of time you put on this video. any chance you can show us lesson on thread milling od in id, may be npt too. khakha may be i ask too much. really appreciate
There is a way to manually calculate your intersection points. You know the distance between the two circle centres and the circle radius for each circle. That enables you to work out the angle of the hypotenuse line. Then use the fact that angle IS the same for all intersections. (Because the line is at a tangent to both radii!) The polar to rectangular function on your calculator will show you your X and Y co-ordinates. Once you tap in the angle and the chord length (circle radius). Add the inch to the smaller radius in X. It's actually much quicker and you only need 2 numbers because everything is mirrored. I used to really get the draughtsman guy going by asking for the numbers and have it running before he got back. I never told him how I did it.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 Why bother when your calculator is quicker. It only takes seconds to work out. Even on the newer machines I calculate intersection points as a double check. That's the charm of the older machines. They required some skill to use and a little geometry went a long way.
I didn't realize you were talking about doing the calculations on a scientific calculator. I'm just not that technically savvy on a calculator so I usually have to resort to CAD on certain geometry.
Hey Phil,got a question, I used this video to make my sprocket hub which has six fingers or a star shape my sqt15 only allows 25 lines to a process but it takes 28 to make the part how do I get the last 3 lines of info to finish the part
HI. I have one question, how to mill complete-circle (where the ending point = the starting point) if this cycle is excentrical to the basic turned part?
You need to mill it in 2 lines that are 180 degrees apart. It does not matter if the circle is eccentric or not. You give it the starting point and end point and radius value.
@@marciszarins Glad to help. I've never tried a Higbee thread yet but it would be a matter of creating a second thread cycle and use a grooving tool. Perhaps I will try it in a future video. Thanks for the suggestion.
Phil, may i know how many axis your lathe has?(can you also program how to rethreading, means you already remove from chuck then put back again to remachining).
Got another question for you. Most of my experience has been on an engine lathe so far. chuck and chuck key for holding stuff. So going from 1/2 to 3/4" bar stock no problem and anything below 1/4" got a 5c collet. Now if the majority of my work, and I am talking 100 part runs at the max, but avg of about 40 pcs per item, goes from 1/2" part to 3/4" part to 1" part to 7/16" part and a few other sizes in between. YOu have an idea what is a better option than top jaws for each material size? Don't want to rough too much stock just so I can have 1 bar size. I have cap jaws on the main chuck. Should I get 5c collet chuck body or something else? I can see getting and boring chuck jaws for say 100+ pc part runs, but I don't want to have to store 100's of chuck jaw sets.
I just run serrated hard jaws for barstock. If all you are doing is small diameter parts then a collet chuck might be your best option. Changing between a collet chuck and a 3 jaw chuck all the time is going to be a pain.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 serrated hard jaws, can you change their position on the serrations of the bottom jaws to accommodate different size stock? How much variation can we get, if that is possible.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 so less than 1/2" I get a 5C A2-6 collet chuck. Thanks for all the help. And furthermore, I think that will be my first project once machine gets positioned, powered, and started. Chuck a pc of steel big enough to make A2-6 collet chuck, then mount it to spindle and machine the 5c taper. Now where do I get drawings?
@18:00 i noticed when you program for turning values are ALL positive ? ? when you switch to MILL TURN you specify positive and negative? would that be accurate?
Thanks for doing this Flange milling video I suggested it was super helpful, look forward to your future videos!😀
You're welcome Ryan. Glad to help.
Hi Phil
In this video unit/p.no 4 has x value 1.125, but hole is at centre so it could be as x0.
thanks for your efforts
I'm pretty new to machining, and currently only CNC I have is an old Fadal mill. Watching your videos though really makes me want to get a Mazak lathe, as the conversational programming looks incredibly powerful. Just need to try to find a small enough one to fit in my shop, without having to add on (again). Thanks for the great content, and very clear teaching!
I love Mazatrol so much I bought two of them for my home hobby shop, which is where I make the videos. I wish I could afford a much newer one but these are working for now. Thanks for the comments.
The other good thing about owning a Mazak CNC is pretty much all the spare parts are still available from Mazak directly.
Also plenty of these machine out there to source spare parts from if needed ??
There are some smaller size lathes if you need them but you might run into trouble machining larger pieces.
The size goes all the way down to QT6 which is a fairly small size if you need a smaller machine.
I am currently rebuilding a 1990 model QT15 which has a fairly small footprint for it,s capabilities 8"/200 mm chuck, 2 axis, 20 Hp spindle, which is enough if you already own a Fadal Mill.
The floor area is around 8 feet / 2500 mm in length x 6 feet 1800 mm wide.
As you already know fairly easy to program which is great for guys like me that prefer to program at the controller.
@@weldmachine i woudn't bet on it mazak parts are expensive they're mitsubishi parts and THEY ARE EXPENSIVE to replace
id recommend buying an okuma for people who are starting out then buy a well maintained with updated software mazak after
@@christophercolumbus8944
Machine parts are generally expensive, especially Genuine Parts.
Most know this when buying Automotive Spares.
The main concern is ?
Are the Spare Parts available ???
When items are plentiful.
Price are generally lower ??
But, this changes as the items become less available.
Buying Genuine Mazak parts are much the same as In the Automotive industry.
But, in most cases no one makes Non Genuine Spare Parts for Machine Tools ???
It's either buy Genuine or shop around and see If anyone has ex stock Machine Spares or, take your chances with Second Hand ???
Larger businesses will buy Spares for different machines and off load them as they don't require the parts.
I was able to pick up a fair few items this way.
But, it can be tough finding Spares for Older Equipment regardless of brands.
The good part of buying Mazak parts is they rarely change the internal running parts of the machine.
Other manufacturers do something similar.
But, I have found Mazak try to keep the same internals for longer.
Some might say this is just laziness.
That's a popular attitude to have when things are brand new.
But, try finding matching parts on Machines that are 10, 20 plus years old ???
Okuma do make great machines.
It comes down to what you are familiar with, and Who and Where is your local dealer.
Not much point in buying a Mazak IF the local dealer is 500 kilometres away and your HAAS or Okuma dealer is 20 minutes away.
This is the biggest concern when buying new Machinery.
Where is your support located ??
@@weldmachine man you are a talker
cnc machines are not cars if you buy an okuma everything is okuma
when you buy mazak you got mitsubishi controls drives all the batteries but again they both should last a long time
Thank you for the video, it’s really helpful as references for starting program on Mazaktrol.
Thanks. Glad it helped.
Great video!! It would be great if you did more live tooling videos. In my career I didn't use the live tooling that often and it would be great if you can do more videos.
Will do!
Thanks for doing this. As u know, I'm not a mazak expert here but have been milling for over 2 decades. Only diff I would do is in the end mill process, I'd go full depth of cut on Z axis but take about 3 steps on the radial depth of cut. Hopefully U will get a better finish.
I agree with you, but unfortunately this old controller will not allow me to take different radial depths of cut--only axial cuts. The only way I could make your method work is to have 3 separate processes one for each radial cut. Newer machines have more cutting options. The T-3 control was Mazak's very first C-axis lathe control. The finish problem I am having is because the bearings in my milling holders are shot and need to be replaced.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 Wow, so its worth speaking up. I wouldn't have thought the machine has that limitation. Will a T32-3 controller allow radial depth of cut moves? It's only about 7 years younger than your machine.
@@joeshmoe5935 I cannot say because I've never ran a T32 controller before. I ran the T+ and now the Smooth X control. I didn't have many practice examples on the T+
@@joeshmoe5935 Did anyone got information about the T-32-3 ? I´m trying to use one and I´m learning. Thanks Phil for the Video, is superhelpfull.
@@camiloorduz not really. Is your machine up and running?
Hey Phil.
Very envious of you owning a C axis machine.
This is the only thing missing from my wish list for a CNC Lathe, that and a Sub Spindle.
I can live without Y axis i have a mill for that.
This is the only 2 things that would push me to buy a new machine.
Maybe in my next life, LOL.
Thanks for posting these video,s always interested in any Mazak.
All the best.
Peter.
Actually, both of my Mazaks are C-axis equipped. This one has a full C-axis and the big Mazak is 1° indexing. Thanks for the positive comments Peter!
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816
When you have time you must get around to showing us your other machine in one of your video,s.
Would be interested to see.
Is it a QT or SQT series ?
Thanks your reply.
My other machine is a 1987 Mazak ST30 ATC/MC. It has a 15" chuck on it and the machine is 13.5 feet long. I was going to do a shop tour video but I have not cleaned up in a while so it looks like a disaster area at the moment.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816
LOL.
Sounds like my machine when i purchased it.
Looked terrible ????
But under all rhe ugly bits it is a great machine.
Just needed some Love.
I would have liked to buy new but can not justify it with the volume of turning work that I do.
@@weldmachine You can see my big Mazak in my recent tool probe calibration video.
Thanks mr phil🧡👏👏
You're welcome.
Hey Phil, it would be cool if you could make a video with interpolating holes with an end mill.
Sounds good. Thanks.
thanks alot, that alot of time you put on this video. any chance you can show us lesson on thread milling od in id, may be npt too. khakha may be i ask too much. really appreciate
I am planning on doing a video on thread milling in the future. Thanks.
Great video. Do you have Mazak Integrex MillTurn matrix mazatrol tutorial?
No, I just have the old T3 control available for filming.
There is a way to manually calculate your intersection points. You know the distance between the two circle centres and the circle radius for each circle. That enables you to work out the angle of the hypotenuse line.
Then use the fact that angle IS the same for all intersections. (Because the line is at a tangent to both radii!)
The polar to rectangular function on your calculator will show you your X and
Y co-ordinates. Once you tap in the angle and the chord length (circle radius). Add the inch to the smaller radius in X.
It's actually much quicker and you only need 2 numbers because everything is mirrored.
I used to really get the draughtsman guy going by asking for the numbers and have it running before he got back. I never told him how I did it.
The newer Mazak controls will allow you to do this, but not on the T-3 control. The T-3 control does not do ANY calculations on the milling side.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 Why bother when your calculator is quicker. It only takes seconds to work out. Even on the newer machines I calculate intersection points as a double check. That's the charm of the older machines. They required some skill to use and a little geometry went a long way.
I didn't realize you were talking about doing the calculations on a scientific calculator. I'm just not that technically savvy on a calculator so I usually have to resort to CAD on certain geometry.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 You should try it. Once it's in your head it will never wriggle out. And it's really quick too.
Would be really interested to learn how you calculate the intersect positions .Would you be able to show your calculations please ?
Thank you good job
Thanks.
Thank you very much for your video. I have a question now, how do I import the nc program file I made in MasterCAM into the mazak cnc machine?
You will need to purchase transfer software from Mazak or someone else in order to input the program to the machine.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 thanks
Great stuff mate!
Thank you.
Very good tutorial .thanks Phil.
Where do you live?
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 i really want to lives in Arizona to be your student Phil,thank you to posting this video.
@@bambiluong9759 You're welcome.
Hey Phil,got a question, I used this video to make my sprocket hub which has six fingers or a star shape my sqt15 only allows 25 lines to a process but it takes 28 to make the part how do I get the last 3 lines of info to finish the part
Break it up in two processes. Half on one process and half on the other one.
You have to tell what the change point is or the drill will index by the part instead of the home point away from the part .
can i do this on a Mazak Cybertech Turn CT-4500M with live tooling but no Y-axis?
@@ManuelRamirez-o7o my machine does not have a Y-axis.
HI. I have one question, how to mill complete-circle (where the ending point = the starting point) if this cycle is excentrical to the basic turned part?
You need to mill it in 2 lines that are 180 degrees apart. It does not matter if the circle is eccentric or not. You give it the starting point and end point and radius value.
Thanks, it works perfectly. I have one more question or maybe even suggestion for interesting video. How to cut Higbee theards on mazak machines?
@@marciszarins Glad to help. I've never tried a Higbee thread yet but it would be a matter of creating a second thread cycle and use a grooving tool. Perhaps I will try it in a future video. Thanks for the suggestion.
I am happy this
Thanks.
Phil, may i know how many axis your lathe has?(can you also program how to rethreading, means you already remove from chuck then put back again to remachining).
This machine is only X, Z and C so 3 axis machine.
I want to make circular pocket on outer diameter
Pls make the video on it
I do not have a Y axis on my machine.
do you only cut aluminum, Phil ?
i am sure your machine can handle steel ?> maybe hard turning? next
I cut aluminum so the videos are as short as possible.
Got another question for you. Most of my experience has been on an engine lathe so far. chuck and chuck key for holding stuff. So going from 1/2 to 3/4" bar stock no problem and anything below 1/4" got a 5c collet. Now if the majority of my work, and I am talking 100 part runs at the max, but avg of about 40 pcs per item, goes from 1/2" part to 3/4" part to 1" part to 7/16" part and a few other sizes in between. YOu have an idea what is a better option than top jaws for each material size? Don't want to rough too much stock just so I can have 1 bar size. I have cap jaws on the main chuck. Should I get 5c collet chuck body or something else? I can see getting and boring chuck jaws for say 100+ pc part runs, but I don't want to have to store 100's of chuck jaw sets.
I just run serrated hard jaws for barstock. If all you are doing is small diameter parts then a collet chuck might be your best option. Changing between a collet chuck and a 3 jaw chuck all the time is going to be a pain.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 serrated hard jaws, can you change their position on the serrations of the bottom jaws to accommodate different size stock? How much variation can we get, if that is possible.
@@joeshmoe5935 I use hard jaws for 1/2" barstock to 3" barstock. Yes, they are adjustable.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 so less than 1/2" I get a 5C A2-6 collet chuck. Thanks for all the help. And furthermore, I think that will be my first project once machine gets positioned, powered, and started. Chuck a pc of steel big enough to make A2-6 collet chuck, then mount it to spindle and machine the 5c taper. Now where do I get drawings?
@@joeshmoe5935 Just buy a used collet chuck off ebay.
Why don't I see any cut off tools and parts
Look at the two videos I made. Bar pulling and bar looping.
you screw up, why did you unmount your workpiece before cut 😆
Thank
You're welcome.
@18:00 i noticed when you program for turning values are ALL positive ? ? when you switch to MILL TURN you specify positive and negative? would that be accurate?
Yes.
you're going to fast with the RPM and tow slow on feed rate
I only have 2,500 rpm spindle speed. This endmill can easily go 12,000 rpm in aluminum.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 what's your feedrate here?