It doesn't say a lot about my subconscious that i glanced at the first comment and thought it said "How to make a prostitution shop" But please feel free to do a tutorial...
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night ruclips.net/user/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
Thank you Matt! After my Dad passed away my brothers divided many of his tools between them. Never once did it cross their mind that I might need them; that I had used them in his shop or borrowed them and that some of the tools were mine that he had borrowed. I got back my tools after a great deal of arguing; plus my Mom stepped in and said your Dad borrowed that or bought it for her as a gift. Since I had to purchase many large tools over the last few years since his shop is now used for automotive work, and we all know tools are not cheap so I have quite a few projects that have been put off. Needless to say I kept quiet about the hand tools that my Dad had loaned me or we had used on a project and he had left them behind for my finishing the project. So I have his amazing array of chisels and I tested them and found that they needed sharpening badly. I was going to bring them to a local shop but after watching this video I'm going to watch your video about sharpening stones. I'm making sure that all of my tools are ready and in the best shape before I begin my first project since his death which involves a lot of fine carpentry. It will be hard without my Dad to turn to for advice but you and your videos will partially fill the void. You are a bit young to fill in for my Dad but he would have found your skills impressive and he was hard to impress. Thank you again for all the videos that many other "experts" don't bother to make. When time has passed without working with wood we all need a refresher course or even more importantly if you are a beginner. Thank you again for remembering we are out here and thirsting for knowledge.
This is a great tutorial, I have been wood turning for a while but would like to get into more woodworking. I have just followed these instructions with a new set of chisels to put the secondary bevel on them it works like a dream. Will definitely be watching more videos from Matt
Iv'e been a woodworker for 40 yrs! I am still humble enough to watch vids like this and still learn a thing or two! Nice vid chap! The only thing I would add is, don't shave your wrist to check a chisels sharpness! Or you will end up like me with a tuft of long hairs where I use to shave with it... lol You pretty well know when your chisel is super sharp! Anyway, I think for young and old just coming into the finer points of woodworking this is a good tutorial on sharpening chisels! Those that are serious about their work will want to save up, and buy this equipment! Nice vid Matt! Frank... PS... I'm retired now... but still potter in my workshop!
Not sure what you mean really... But, what I mean, is that, even after 40yrs woodworking, I am still willing to learn a new trick or two! Which I have! I have also, over the years, perfected a trick or two myself. Itake it, your also a woodworker Patrick
I have one spot I always shave chisel /plane blades with ... the top right hand side of my wrist , never a problem if you shave against the grain of the hair . Never shave with the lay of the hair ... there will be blood.
Andrei Charpentier Quesada I am not master but this grasshopper would suggest 25 for hardwood 30 + for softwood . You will know what works for you . Good luck on your journey .
Amazed at the differences in terminology across different disciplines - when i was a young skinny tool and cutter grinder, the first bevel off the edge was the primary, the second was the secondary and the third was the tertiary. What he terms as the primary we were taught was the hollow grind.
Matt, Thank you for your tutorials (all of them). I have been interested in woodworking/furniture making for a couple years now and your videos and delivery of the information are leading me down the path to putting together my own hobby area. Keep doing what you are doing and I look forward to more from you in the future.
I have a Tormek and have always just used it for the whole job, I have just tried your method and it worked very well and the secondary bevel operation was very quick. Thankyou.
While at the same time describing what to using the tools you are more likely to own. I happen to own a Grizzly wheel (think lower cost Tormek) and appreciate the extra discussion on using the wheel as well as the stone.
I just use an India stone only thing to use for 40 years ,shave with any chisel when done properly,all of stone gets used side to side and front to back,carpenteering is my life ,I love it
Thank you for this video. I just got a good whetstone and sharpened my first ever set of chisels. I had watched this video a while ago knowing that I'd need the knowledge later. It really helped tremendously. I now have a set of chisels that are ridiculously sharp. Thank you!
Fo Shizzle dats a sharp chisel. After my grandad died my father had to clean out his gunsmith shop and I saw this little stump of a chisel with an improvised handle made out of a an old wooden YoYo to this day it’s the sharpest thing I’ve ever held in my life. I like that Tormach I borrowed one from a friend to finish a couple of straight razors I made that wet wheel is fantastic.
Wow, all these haters in the comments sound super jealous you have the setup to maintain the tools you use, to put food on your table, in the way you find best/suitable to your needs. I'm amazed they have the time to type so many hater comments yet no time to search for a video on hand sharpening like your Tool Duel 2 video. I'm finding there are many know it all snobs in the wood working world.... well the world in general. Thank you for your time to make this video even though it doesn't necessarily fit my exact needs... I understand your world doesn't revolve around me ;-)
when i started out i sharpend my granddads old bahco chisels, They had a lot of nicks in em but i spent the time to sharpen them with a combination stone, The grits were 8000 and 10000 , it took a really really long time, but it worked. I wasnt the one who bought the stone btw, i got as a christmas present from my dad, and he didnt know any better :)
@@paulludwigewaldvonkleist4039 "Blunt" chisels are still sharp enough to cut you, and are more likely to. (Hence, they are "deadly sharp".) Sharp chisels are a lot safer. (Hence, they are "safely sharp")
@@paulludwigewaldvonkleist4039 To clarify more: a blunt chisel will require more force to cut/slice grain, so you'll end up with less control over your cut/pare/chop or whatever you're doing, while the sharp chisel will be much more controlled. It's similar to kitchen knives. Actually, blunt knives and chisels are also more dangerous in that they'll give you a fairly ragged cut, rather than something that's very clean from a very sharp knife/chisel.
@@wyssmaster Can confirm, was using a chisel and was stupidly cutting towards myself and it wasn't optimally sharp so when the wood gave out the force i used carried the chisel to stab my finger. The cut was very clean and i didn't feel any pain so that was nice though so it was at the dull enough to require force but sharp enough to be clean stage.
Dude you are the best! All your vids are great and super informative. Just made my first protrusion stop and man are my chisels sharp Af! Keep up the great work and vids!!!!
If you have a primary edge that damaged and you need to grind quite a lot, you might need to check the grinding angle and adjust it a couple of times during the process. As the material is grind away, the chisels angle against the stone will change.
These videos in a nutshell: Here's a thing - we're going to do this thing also and if you don't know this thing you can watch my previous video... *proceeds to next video* k so there's this other thing... (100 videos later I'm a fine woodworking craftsman full of encyclopedic knowledge and I've never touched so much as a chisel worth more than 5$). Thanks for all your effort!
I have a zero bullshit approach to sharpening. It includes 2 diamond plates and a leather strop with chromium oxide. No expensive machines, no stone flattening, no presoaking stones, no preparation, no honing guides (anything around 30° works just fine) or anything else that adds more work to the process without benefits. I also have a very coarse oil stone (30 grit) if I ever have to remove a lot of steel. But that´s rarely used. I´d have that chisel sharp in less time than he needs to use the machine to get it roughly in shape. And I don´t have a huge mess with all the water and slurry. When I have a dull tool i like to sharpen it without much fuzz and get back to work.
Well done Matt. I’m a cabinet maker and I agree with everything you said in this video. I am lucky enough to own a Tormek, I wouldn’t use anything else. My lie Nielsen chisels have never seen a high speed grinder and never will
This is a pretty good demo. But just as you were talking about contaminating the finer water stone, you did just that!!! The only way to avoid cross contamination of water stones is to firstly use separate fine and course stones. Secondly, use separate water vessels for washing them individually. Thirdly, wash everything under the tap, especially the honing guide and item being sharpened. . Finally, when actually sharpening, use ALL of the stone's length. Start the pull a few millimetres from the end, and regularly turn it around. When I first discovered water stones about 20 years ago, hardly anyone was using them. I've sharpened edges on some of my best 19th and early 20th century chisels by some of the best makers, and not needed to touch them again for ages! I think the time spent first getting a REALLY flat and then highly polished (white stone) surface on the back of a chisel or plane blade is key to getting the very best results. Without it, what you have is a shiny saw edge.
Didn't even know there's so much tiny tools to keep the chisel calm and on point while sharpening and then that "Tormek" thing ... Sharpened my chizels by hand on a random 2 bucks whetstone, some polishing green pasta and just a random piece of shirt i find around the house... yes they do shave nicely for 4 years already :D
So, is that handheld honing guide what you would recommend using to make the initial primary bevel angel in place of a tormek (if we are starting out and don’t have access to a tormek)?
Hello Matt, nice work, what you are doing here with all this information on your videos. Have no words to thank you for that. Don't remember how I've got to your channel, but good that it went like that, because I'm addicted on that now (at least until my kids wake up and/or my wife gets crazy!). Would you, please write down how that last piece used with the fine paste is called? Brazilian guy here watching your videos, just want to be sure that I find one of this thing for me. No inputs to you, so far, just my compliments for your efforts and mindset! Thanks!
It's not hard. Just practice. You don't need all this garage to get a great edge. People have been sharpening tools for hundreds of years without all this. This is for people who don't want to learn the simple skill of sharpening. Practice, and you can do all this with a single medium grit bench stone and a strop, hell you could do it with a file and cardboard for a strop. All this guy's props are totally unnecessary
I hollow grind with a dressed bench grinder, using very light pressure. Next, I use a whet stone. Finally, I draw the blade toward me, flipping it each stroke. You can shave with the chisels when done.
IIRC, the bevel's angle largely depends on the quality of the metals, forging/quenching techniques, and intended use. A 10⁰ will pass through with greater ease, but is more prone to damage - you'd want this for tomatoes, delicate vegetables, preparing sashimi, etc.. A 30⁰ is great for a cleaver - more durable but requires a little more brute force to cut through items - it'd make a mess trying to shave paper thin salmon strips, but (hopefully) is less likely to pit/snap/curl when striking into a heavy shoulder joint. A 10⁰ angle in lower quality, less-hardened steels will cut once, then need resharpening. In a lower quality, more hardened steel it might just end up too brittle. Higher quality steel and/or alloys can mitigate that brittleness, some safely going below 10⁰. Still, these would be for slicing, not chopping wood 😉 I have heard that molecular structure will play a part as well - some compositions just naturally keeping a certain angle better due to the way the molecules form their bonds. Haven't had a definitive experience on that myself, but it kinda makes sense...
I think I have the same double sided diamond stone as you have, if it is the Axminster 400/1000 one. My question, can I use this to establish the primary bevel? I won't be able to afford a grinder. I have an eclipse honing guide.
Evidently this stone is now made in China since the reviews are of very low quality from being un-flat, to diamond dust coming off after a few uses. On both Amazon and the Axminster site. Too bad.
I use a piece of thick mirror glass, sheets of abrasive paper and a guide, final polish off the burr with wet or dry paper and it's stupidly sharp. No stones to wear out or go out of flat.
Love the videos Matt, some great tips and information. One comment sir, If you listen with headphones (like me) it seems the intro music is really loud compared to the main audio track. IE: Having to rip off/remove headphones due to loud beats while trying to listen, sorry if it sounds like whining. It seems to be a thing for way too many YT videos. It's great you don't have a soundtrack during the video, easy to hear exactly what your trying to get across. Thanks and keep up the good work!
For all the naysayers in the costs of the sharpening equipment, sometimes you just have to improvise. I've picked up some very inexpensive diamond plates that have a cheap foam backing, just remove that and epoxy to a plate of 3/8" glass or other substrate that is flat. You can also find water stones economically priced with diligent searching. If you have quality chisels, it's worth the effort and some expense to get the edge needed. If that isn't your need, then buy the cheap Stanley chisels and carry on with a wannabe effort. Good luck. If you step up to good Japanese chisels, this whole conversation is pointless because you've already graduated. Matt, this is good information and well presented.
There are so many people here bashing him for going to such lengths to sharpen a chisel while I'm thinking about the fact he went straight from the 6k stone to his strop without wiping the grit off therefore contaminating the fine abrasives in the strop with coarser particles at 13:03 . Shows how varied peoples opinions on sharpening can and will always be.
There is actually a book of carpentry and one of the main rules in it states any tools that are suppose to be sharp, should be sharp at all times 😊 I can't remember the name of the book or the author of it but I would love have it in my library. Anyways, Great video and great job! I have always used a bench grinder to sharpen my chisels but it would be great to have that cool tool you have there.
Thank you Zoe! Unfortunately I’m not a woodturner so I don’t have a need to sharpen woodturning tools. But from my experience at Axminster, the tools to look into are the Tormek or Tru-Grind. Both give great results.
This series of videos is really, really good. Lots of info presented in an accessible style and in good length chunks. I'm almost tempted to take back early leg pulls. Almost ;-)
As long as I get rid of all remnants of the ding on the end when grinding, it should be ok. It's not enough of an impact to distort the rest of the blade. Cheers William!
Sorry if you covered this, but what is the reasoning behind doing a drag back? I was always taught to push forward like the blade is shaving off the stone. Is there a difference between the two?
Well, frankly getting such diamond sharpener stone is quite difficult here in my home country and kind of expensive too. It's a lot cheaper for us to just build that machine from water pump motor and attach a grinding wheel on it. More like opposite world here but thank's for the video. It really helps beginner woodworking enthusiast like me.
Matt I’m a beginner. How do you determine the chisel needs to be sharpened? No necessarily after dropping it but will cutting your hair be the gauge or “test”?
It'll depend on what your doing with your chisel. If it's only used on soft woods you won't need to be able to shave hairs, if it's mostly hardwoods you'll need to keep them sharp as possible and could be rubbing them up several times a day during use.
Soft woods get crushed easier with a dull chisel. You almost have to have a chisel sharper for softwood I think. Especially when chopping dovetails out or morticing.
Cheers Stephen! I have a series of videos on my channel that document the progress of me making it. The playlist is called 'Building a Roubo Workbench' if you're interested.
136 chisels of all types, 72 hand planes, over 25 leather knives, scissors and sheers and saw blades galore. To keep my shop in sharp tools it’s up at 0400 PST, sharpen through until 0800 PST daily and let anyone who mistreats my tools go. I have little patience for people who don’t keep their own tools up if they are using them on wood, leather and large timbers that cost me money in my mill or furniture shop or leather shop. Thanks for setting people straight. There are many sharpening misconceptions out there
I bought a bench grinder and thought that’ll be all I’ll need to sharpen my chisels, looks like it’s back to Amazon to buy the other 20 other tools I need.
If I got my numbers remotely right, that's well over 1000 Euros of sharpening equipment right there. That may not be an issue for a professional, but then a professional does not need this video. For the home gamer it might be a little intimidating, when all he really needs is two stones and an Eclipse-style guide (which is about one-tenth of the price of the LN).
My point is that there is a lot of instructional content on woodworking that implies that you need to sell your kids into slavery to be able to afford all of that Lie Nielsen and Festool gear in order to get going. In my opinion, it does not help when the presenter tells you, e.g., that you might "just as well" use your crappy Harbor Freight jigsaw for this task for which he prefers to use his 3000 dollar bandsaw. And usually people who have a top-of-the-line Tormek kicking around for whichever reason will have figured out how to use it by now.
I get where you're coming from but unfortunately with Woodworking there isn't a one size fits all rule. It's about finding what works for you within your budget. This is my method because it works for me but I gave plenty of viable methods at the end of the video. Going to a shop to have your chisels reground is only a couple of quid/euros and that will last you weeks/months before you need to regrind the primary bevel. I would advise doing that if you have nothing other than a fine sharpening stone. Cheers :)
There's always criticism when someone in a video is using a higher end tool or machinery... Sour grapes. Everyone into woodworking knows there are countless options and opinions. Matt wasn't implying that you had to have a Tormek or 400 dollar handplane to get going.
The problem here is that machine is nothing but a glorified bench grinder and nobody has duplicated it's abilities to a standard bolt on application. If you look long and hard there are other ways to get the same results at a fraction of the cost that even my clumsy hands can do.
Matt, please consider listing your other videos and the products you use in your discription. Then we can easily find your other videos and you can use affiliate links if you like and we get the benefit of easily finding the tools you recommend/use.
How to make a protrusion stop:
ruclips.net/video/I417VVog0Bc/видео.html
i don't use JIG's or Guide i sharp my chisel or plane blades by hand
Matt Estlea - Furniture ll
Matt Estlea - Furniture εληνηκα
.
It doesn't say a lot about my subconscious that i glanced at the first comment and thought it said "How to make a prostitution shop" But please feel free to do a tutorial...
Thank you so much! I never knew so much could be accomplished with just hand tools. You have really encouraged this 73 year old to study this more.
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night ruclips.net/user/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
Thank you Matt! After my Dad passed away my brothers divided many of his tools between them. Never once did it cross their mind that I might need them; that I had used them in his shop or borrowed them and that some of the tools were mine that he had borrowed. I got back my tools after a great deal of arguing; plus my Mom stepped in and said your Dad borrowed that or bought it for her as a gift. Since I had to purchase many large tools over the last few years since his shop is now used for automotive work, and we all know tools are not cheap so I have quite a few projects that have been put off. Needless to say I kept quiet about the hand tools that my Dad had loaned me or we had used on a project and he had left them behind for my finishing the project. So I have his amazing array of chisels and I tested them and found that they needed sharpening badly. I was going to bring them to a local shop but after watching this video I'm going to watch your video about sharpening stones. I'm making sure that all of my tools are ready and in the best shape before I begin my first project since his death which involves a lot of fine carpentry. It will be hard without my Dad to turn to for advice but you and your videos will partially fill the void. You are a bit young to fill in for my Dad but he would have found your skills impressive and he was hard to impress. Thank you again for all the videos that many other "experts" don't bother to make. When time has passed without working with wood we all need a refresher course or even more importantly if you are a beginner. Thank you again for remembering we are out here and thirsting for knowledge.
That was a emotional response, my dad has passed also, your father would be proud to know that you are continuing his work
Thank you Matt for the best demo I've seen regarding sharpening chisels.
Best tutorials on RUclips! Thank you!
This is a great tutorial, I have been wood turning for a while but would like to get into more woodworking. I have just followed these instructions with a new set of chisels to put the secondary bevel on them it works like a dream. Will definitely be watching more videos from Matt
"keep your shizels sharp"
i kinda like this, it's gonna be my shop motto from now on.
Shizels charp.
Should be on a T shirt !
I just started learning woodwork in school and i have to say, your videos are amazing and they helped me a lot with my grades. Love from Germany
The BEST and most informative (in my opinion) sharpening videos on the net. Thanks Matt
Iv'e been a woodworker for 40 yrs!
I am still humble enough to watch vids like this and still learn a thing or two!
Nice vid chap!
The only thing I would add is, don't shave your wrist to check a chisels sharpness!
Or you will end up like me with a tuft of long hairs where I use to shave with it... lol
You pretty well know when your chisel is super sharp!
Anyway, I think for young and old just coming into the finer points of woodworking this
is a good tutorial on sharpening chisels!
Those that are serious about their work will want to save up, and buy this equipment!
Nice vid Matt!
Frank...
PS... I'm retired now... but still potter in my workshop!
Frank James one dies not call oneself "humble", since, you know, that's not a very humble move to do so...
Not sure what you mean really...
But, what I mean, is that, even after 40yrs woodworking, I am still willing to learn
a new trick or two! Which I have!
I have also, over the years, perfected a trick or two myself.
Itake it, your also a woodworker Patrick
I have one spot I always shave chisel /plane blades with ... the top right hand side of my wrist , never a problem if you shave against the grain of the hair . Never shave with the lay of the hair ... there will be blood.
Master, i have a doubt i have read that you have to sharp for 25, 30 & 35 degrees. What do you recomend for general porpouse chisel in hardwood?
Andrei Charpentier Quesada I am not master but this grasshopper would suggest 25 for hardwood 30 + for softwood . You will know what works for you . Good luck on your journey .
Amazed at the differences in terminology across different disciplines - when i was a young skinny tool and cutter grinder, the first bevel off the edge was the primary, the second was the secondary and the third was the tertiary. What he terms as the primary we were taught was the hollow grind.
Planning end grain on walnut went amazingly pleasant thanks to you advices ! Thank you !
You really know your craft and an excellent teacher. I love the tips and tricks which shows your attention to detail. Thanks!
Your channel is a priceless treasure of help; thank you so much!
Your videos are fantastic Matt. No nonsense, great instruction. Thanks
Brilliant video...I have a heap of 2nd hand chisels that are going to be sharpened up nicely now...great stuff and thanks for sharing your expertise.
Good luck Stewart! Drop me a direct message on Facebook or Instagram if you have any other questions!
Matt,
Thank you for your tutorials (all of them).
I have been interested in woodworking/furniture making for a couple years now and your videos and delivery of the information are leading me down the path to putting together my own hobby area.
Keep doing what you are doing and I look forward to more from you in the future.
I have a Tormek and have always just used it for the whole job, I have just tried your method and it worked very well and the secondary bevel operation was very quick. Thankyou.
Hi not a regular poster here but wanted to thank you for the terrific explanation of the sharpening process. Have a gr8 holiday
How to sharpen a chisel with tools that you don't or will never own. Brilliant!
While at the same time describing what to using the tools you are more likely to own. I happen to own a Grizzly wheel (think lower cost Tormek) and appreciate the extra discussion on using the wheel as well as the stone.
Your videos are amazing!!!! You are one good wood worker!
I just use an India stone only thing to use for 40 years ,shave with any chisel when done properly,all of stone gets used side to side and front to back,carpenteering is my life ,I love it
Thank you for this video. I just got a good whetstone and sharpened my first ever set of chisels. I had watched this video a while ago knowing that I'd need the knowledge later. It really helped tremendously. I now have a set of chisels that are ridiculously sharp. Thank you!
Fo Shizzle dats a sharp chisel. After my grandad died my father had to clean out his gunsmith shop and I saw this little stump of a chisel with an improvised handle made out of a an old wooden YoYo to this day it’s the sharpest thing I’ve ever held in my life. I like that Tormach I borrowed one from a friend to finish a couple of straight razors I made that wet wheel is fantastic.
Wow, all these haters in the comments sound super jealous you have the setup to maintain the tools you use, to put food on your table, in the way you find best/suitable to your needs. I'm amazed they have the time to type so many hater comments yet no time to search for a video on hand sharpening like your Tool Duel 2 video. I'm finding there are many know it all snobs in the wood working world.... well the world in general. Thank you for your time to make this video even though it doesn't necessarily fit my exact needs... I understand your world doesn't revolve around me ;-)
Ya callate alv
Nice 'matter of fact' tutorial. First time I have ever heard cross contamination of stones mentioned! - well done for that little detail 👍👍
"this chisel is well and truly"... I like how you didn't need to finish that sentence. The power of non-verbal :)
madly and deeply do????
That is the best looking workbench I've seen. Subbed for that. Now I'll watch the vid.
Great video, nice clear instructions.
Another outstanding video Matt! I'm both enjoying watching and learning skills with each new post! Keep up the great work. - Diane, Florida, USA
That's what I like to hear Diane! Thank you!
when i started out i sharpend my granddads old bahco chisels, They had a lot of nicks in em but i spent the time to sharpen them with a combination stone, The grits were 8000 and 10000 , it took a really really long time, but it worked. I wasnt the one who bought the stone btw, i got as a christmas present from my dad, and he didnt know any better :)
It is, ironically, the blunt chisel that is deadly sharp. A sharp chisel is safely sharp.
I don't get it
@@paulludwigewaldvonkleist4039 "Blunt" chisels are still sharp enough to cut you, and are more likely to. (Hence, they are "deadly sharp".) Sharp chisels are a lot safer. (Hence, they are "safely sharp")
Yes
@@paulludwigewaldvonkleist4039 To clarify more: a blunt chisel will require more force to cut/slice grain, so you'll end up with less control over your cut/pare/chop or whatever you're doing, while the sharp chisel will be much more controlled. It's similar to kitchen knives. Actually, blunt knives and chisels are also more dangerous in that they'll give you a fairly ragged cut, rather than something that's very clean from a very sharp knife/chisel.
@@wyssmaster Can confirm, was using a chisel and was stupidly cutting towards myself and it wasn't optimally sharp so when the wood gave out the force i used carried the chisel to stab my finger. The cut was very clean and i didn't feel any pain so that was nice though so it was at the dull enough to require force but sharp enough to be clean stage.
Dude you are the best! All your vids are great and super informative. Just made my first protrusion stop and man are my chisels sharp Af! Keep up the great work and vids!!!!
If you have a primary edge that damaged and you need to grind quite a lot, you might need to check the grinding angle and adjust it a couple of times during the process.
As the material is grind away, the chisels angle against the stone will change.
These videos in a nutshell: Here's a thing - we're going to do this thing also and if you don't know this thing you can watch my previous video... *proceeds to next video* k so there's this other thing... (100 videos later I'm a fine woodworking craftsman full of encyclopedic knowledge and I've never touched so much as a chisel worth more than 5$). Thanks for all your effort!
J017 RogueBot 😂😂 I thought this was going to be a hate comment when I started reading it. Glad it’s useful mate, thank you for the kind words :)
@@MattEstlea oh it is - I hate that I've now spent about 10k$ on fine woodworking kit. Darn you Bridge City tooooooools.
I have a zero bullshit approach to sharpening. It includes 2 diamond plates and a leather strop with chromium oxide.
No expensive machines, no stone flattening, no presoaking stones, no preparation, no honing guides (anything around 30° works just fine) or anything else that adds more work to the process without benefits. I also have a very coarse oil stone (30 grit) if I ever have to remove a lot of steel. But that´s rarely used.
I´d have that chisel sharp in less time than he needs to use the machine to get it roughly in shape. And I don´t have a huge mess with all the water and slurry.
When I have a dull tool i like to sharpen it without much fuzz and get back to work.
Can you elaborate on the two diamond plates...
Currently I use an Arkansas stone.
Well done Matt. I’m a cabinet maker and I agree with everything you said in this video. I am lucky enough to own a Tormek, I wouldn’t use anything else. My lie Nielsen chisels have never seen a high speed grinder and never will
Great demonstration and explanation.
Brilliant video, enjoyed it thank you
Hi Matt please can you explain how to make your wooden angle gage and how to use it ?
Why oh why I didn't know about you when I used to live in B'STOKE??? Brilliant videos mush, absolutely brilliant!
Super video with super tips. Thanx Matt!!
No worries mate, glad it helped!
Excellent tutorial....esp. since you offered alternatives to the massive outlay a Tormek requires.....
I have an old Craftsman wet stone sharpener I bought it at a flea mkt years ago for $10.00 works great.
Whet stone.
It needn’t be wet.
This is a pretty good demo. But just as you were talking about contaminating the finer water stone, you did just that!!! The only way to avoid cross contamination of water stones is to firstly use separate fine and course stones. Secondly, use separate water vessels for washing them individually. Thirdly, wash everything under the tap, especially the honing guide and item being sharpened. .
Finally, when actually sharpening, use ALL of the stone's length. Start the pull a few millimetres from the end, and regularly turn it around.
When I first discovered water stones about 20 years ago, hardly anyone was using them. I've sharpened edges on some of my best 19th and early 20th century chisels by some of the best makers, and not needed to touch them again for ages!
I think the time spent first getting a REALLY flat and then highly polished (white stone) surface on the back of a chisel or plane blade is key to getting the very best results. Without it, what you have is a shiny saw edge.
Didn't even know there's so much tiny tools to keep the chisel calm and on point while sharpening and then that "Tormek" thing ... Sharpened my chizels by hand on a random 2 bucks whetstone, some polishing green pasta and just a random piece of shirt i find around the house... yes they do shave nicely for 4 years already :D
Thank you, You answered questions I didn't even know I had. Classic case not knowing enough to ask questions.
I love sharpening...it's such a Zen process!!!
So, is that handheld honing guide what you would recommend using to make the initial primary bevel angel in place of a tormek (if we are starting out and don’t have access to a tormek)?
Class video mate 👍🏼
Hello Matt, nice work, what you are doing here with all this information on your videos. Have no words to thank you for that. Don't remember how I've got to your channel, but good that it went like that, because I'm addicted on that now (at least until my kids wake up and/or my wife gets crazy!). Would you, please write down how that last piece used with the fine paste is called? Brazilian guy here watching your videos, just want to be sure that I find one of this thing for me. No inputs to you, so far, just my compliments for your efforts and mindset! Thanks!
Forget it, I found it. Strap!
Im very thankfull for your explanations, got recently the stuff, learning to use it. Greetings from Argentina!
Sharpening seems so simple and easy when you have the right angled devices. I feel like it’s difficult without them but idk
It's not hard. Just practice. You don't need all this garage to get a great edge. People have been sharpening tools for hundreds of years without all this. This is for people who don't want to learn the simple skill of sharpening. Practice, and you can do all this with a single medium grit bench stone and a strop, hell you could do it with a file and cardboard for a strop. All this guy's props are totally unnecessary
Just found this channel and i've got to say its just brilliant! Im also going to Rycotewood in Oxford this September! Can't wait!
How do did you get the measurements for your wood block angle depth gauge?
I hollow grind with a dressed bench grinder, using very light pressure. Next, I use a whet stone. Finally, I draw the blade toward me, flipping it each stroke. You can shave with the chisels when done.
Do a video....I'm curious to your method...
Hey Matt, will the Tormek also square the end while resetting the primary bevel since it’s in that square jig?
As always, concise and clear. Thanks a lot!
Excellent video very helpful thanks Matt
What is the stone called you flattern the 1000 grit on and where can we.get them from?😀
It looks like Japanese 1000\6000 combined water stone of a "King" brand
Daft question. Do you use the 25 & 30 degree setting block for both chisels and plane blades
Where do you purchase your stones and which ones will I require for chisel sharpening. Thanks
IIRC, the bevel's angle largely depends on the quality of the metals, forging/quenching techniques, and intended use. A 10⁰ will pass through with greater ease, but is more prone to damage - you'd want this for tomatoes, delicate vegetables, preparing sashimi, etc.. A 30⁰ is great for a cleaver - more durable but requires a little more brute force to cut through items - it'd make a mess trying to shave paper thin salmon strips, but (hopefully) is less likely to pit/snap/curl when striking into a heavy shoulder joint.
A 10⁰ angle in lower quality, less-hardened steels will cut once, then need resharpening. In a lower quality, more hardened steel it might just end up too brittle. Higher quality steel and/or alloys can mitigate that brittleness, some safely going below 10⁰. Still, these would be for slicing, not chopping wood 😉
I have heard that molecular structure will play a part as well - some compositions just naturally keeping a certain angle better due to the way the molecules form their bonds. Haven't had a definitive experience on that myself, but it kinda makes sense...
I think I have the same double sided diamond stone as you have, if it is the Axminster 400/1000 one. My question, can I use this to establish the primary bevel? I won't be able to afford a grinder. I have an eclipse honing guide.
Evidently this stone is now made in China since the reviews are of very low quality from being un-flat, to diamond dust coming off after a few uses. On both Amazon and the Axminster site. Too bad.
I use a piece of thick mirror glass, sheets of abrasive paper and a guide, final polish off the burr with wet or dry paper and it's stupidly sharp. No stones to wear out or go out of flat.
Love the videos Matt, some great tips and information. One comment sir, If you listen with headphones (like me) it seems the intro music is really loud compared to the main audio track. IE: Having to rip off/remove headphones due to loud beats while trying to listen, sorry if it sounds like whining. It seems to be a thing for way too many YT videos. It's great you don't have a soundtrack during the video, easy to hear exactly what your trying to get across. Thanks and keep up the good work!
The Gordon Ramsay of woodworking. Thank You!
On your diamond stone what grit do you use to flatten your 6000 and 1000 wetstone sides?
For all the naysayers in the costs of the sharpening equipment, sometimes you just have to improvise. I've picked up some very inexpensive diamond plates that have a cheap foam backing, just remove that and epoxy to a plate of 3/8" glass or other substrate that is flat. You can also find water stones economically priced with diligent searching. If you have quality chisels, it's worth the effort and some expense to get the edge needed. If that isn't your need, then buy the cheap Stanley chisels and carry on with a wannabe effort. Good luck. If you step up to good Japanese chisels, this whole conversation is pointless because you've already graduated. Matt, this is good information and well presented.
There are so many people here bashing him for going to such lengths to sharpen a chisel while I'm thinking about the fact he went straight from the 6k stone to his strop without wiping the grit off therefore contaminating the fine abrasives in the strop with coarser particles at 13:03 . Shows how varied peoples opinions on sharpening can and will always be.
There is actually a book of carpentry and one of the main rules in it states any tools that are suppose to be sharp, should be sharp at all times 😊 I can't remember the name of the book or the author of it but I would love have it in my library. Anyways, Great video and great job! I have always used a bench grinder to sharpen my chisels but it would be great to have that cool tool you have there.
Great video Matt. Are you going to make a video on the honing guide block you made to get the correct angle?
A lot of people have been asking so yes I think I will!
Fantastic!! Looking forward to seeing it buddy.
Here you go Jim!
ruclips.net/video/I417VVog0Bc/видео.html
PS I know you're a 'student' but I think you'll make a wonderful teacher in the future. Subscribed!
Thank you Zoe! Unfortunately I’m not a woodturner so I don’t have a need to sharpen woodturning tools. But from my experience at Axminster, the tools to look into are the Tormek or Tru-Grind. Both give great results.
Great video. Do you need to do anything different for mortice chisels?
This series of videos is really, really good. Lots of info presented in an accessible style and in good length chunks. I'm almost tempted to take back early leg pulls. Almost ;-)
David Clarke i
Great video. Shouldn't the back of the chisel be lapped again after having suffered being dropped and battered so much?
As long as I get rid of all remnants of the ding on the end when grinding, it should be ok. It's not enough of an impact to distort the rest of the blade. Cheers William!
Sorry if you covered this, but what is the reasoning behind doing a drag back? I was always taught to push forward like the blade is shaving off the stone. Is there a difference between the two?
Well, frankly getting such diamond sharpener stone is quite difficult here in my home country and kind of expensive too. It's a lot cheaper for us to just build that machine from water pump motor and attach a grinding wheel on it. More like opposite world here but thank's for the video. It really helps beginner woodworking enthusiast like me.
Matt I’m a beginner. How do you determine the chisel needs to be sharpened?
No necessarily after dropping it but will cutting your hair be the gauge or “test”?
It'll depend on what your doing with your chisel. If it's only used on soft woods you won't need to be able to shave hairs, if it's mostly hardwoods you'll need to keep them sharp as possible and could be rubbing them up several times a day during use.
Soft woods get crushed easier with a dull chisel. You almost have to have a chisel sharper for softwood I think. Especially when chopping dovetails out or morticing.
How do you replace the batteries in the damaged chisel ...
Waaaat
@@nowonmetube tumbleweed rolling across the screen lol
You don't replace batteries in a chisel.
You balance the chisel on top of the fence while using your table saw and it recharges via induction.
@@SHADOW.GGG- because it's not funny?
My God man, that is one nice bench and vice
Cheers Stephen! I have a series of videos on my channel that document the progress of me making it. The playlist is called 'Building a Roubo Workbench' if you're interested.
How do you know how far to slide the chisel into the honing guide and how is that jig made?
thank you Matt for sharing this skill.
Is there a link to a store to get the sharpening stones and the degree setter that you have?
Look on Amazon
How do I make that jig for the angles of the honing guide?
136 chisels of all types, 72 hand planes, over 25 leather knives, scissors and sheers and saw blades galore. To keep my shop in sharp tools it’s up at 0400 PST, sharpen through until 0800 PST daily and let anyone who mistreats my tools go. I have little patience for people who don’t keep their own tools up if they are using them on wood, leather and large timbers that cost me money in my mill or furniture shop or leather shop. Thanks for setting people straight. There are many sharpening misconceptions out there
Very good info. thank you.
No problem Marcus, glad you find it useful!
Wow, where did you get that bench? Harrods???
Ever use the Kell honing guide?
I bought a bench grinder and thought that’ll be all I’ll need to sharpen my chisels, looks like it’s back to Amazon to buy the other 20 other tools I need.
Hello matt,
I have a grindmachine il grind at 25 degr but on my honing guide like yours if i messure i get 30 degrees ?
Hello Matt !
7:02 can you survive without a diamond plate somehow? and how shit is the chisel if you're stopping at the 1000 grit on the tormek?
Have question.When i try to put the microbevel it's not even.But my jig is parrallel to the wheels of the jig??
If I got my numbers remotely right, that's well over 1000 Euros of sharpening equipment right there. That may not be an issue for a professional, but then a professional does not need this video. For the home gamer it might be a little intimidating, when all he really needs is two stones and an Eclipse-style guide (which is about one-tenth of the price of the LN).
He did say it was a borrowed Tormek and that he used stones most of his life. Millions of videos out there showing different methods.
My point is that there is a lot of instructional content on woodworking that implies that you need to sell your kids into slavery to be able to afford all of that Lie Nielsen and Festool gear in order to get going. In my opinion, it does not help when the presenter tells you, e.g., that you might "just as well" use your crappy Harbor Freight jigsaw for this task for which he prefers to use his 3000 dollar bandsaw. And usually people who have a top-of-the-line Tormek kicking around for whichever reason will have figured out how to use it by now.
I get where you're coming from but unfortunately with Woodworking there isn't a one size fits all rule. It's about finding what works for you within your budget. This is my method because it works for me but I gave plenty of viable methods at the end of the video. Going to a shop to have your chisels reground is only a couple of quid/euros and that will last you weeks/months before you need to regrind the primary bevel. I would advise doing that if you have nothing other than a fine sharpening stone. Cheers :)
There's always criticism when someone in a video is using a higher end tool or machinery... Sour grapes. Everyone into woodworking knows there are countless options and opinions. Matt wasn't implying that you had to have a Tormek or 400 dollar handplane to get going.
The problem here is that machine is nothing but a glorified bench grinder and nobody has duplicated it's abilities to a standard bolt on application. If you look long and hard there are other ways to get the same results at a fraction of the cost that even my clumsy hands can do.
Matt, please consider listing your other videos and the products you use in your discription. Then we can easily find your other videos and you can use affiliate links if you like and we get the benefit of easily finding the tools you recommend/use.
love the metric measurement
BTW, what is that beautiful cabinet behind your left shoulder? Many of us would love to see more of your work in addition to these videos.
Have a look at my playlists, I have videos on building multiple projects! That cabinet can be viewed here: ruclips.net/video/qsrL0FhiSOw/видео.html
How long do you soak the water stone? I'm finding different answers online ranging from 5 to 30 min
Great tutorial. I particularly enjoyed the “good grounding” pun.