Thanks for posting your video. I use to be a parts manager for Honda and was pals with the shop foreman who was an A-Tech. He taught me pretty much everything there is to know about these motors. Two things I wanted to mention to you, you are actually making the valves a little too tight. You should be able to slightly move the feeler gauge in and out while adjusting the valves, you should never have a situation where the feeler gauge can not pass through the gap otherwise you could damage the valves, especially the exhaust valve as it will get too hot and you can burn it. Lastly, its good policy to always remember to change the valve cover gasket after performing this service to avoid possible leaks. Have a nice day........
Been doing adjustments since I was a kid and I agree with some other reviewers; that method of adjustment would lead to a too tight situation a possibly damage to the engine.
I'm a retired motorcycle technician and machinist and I've checked and adjusted valve clearances on rocker type engines on hundreds of bikes and I only loosened a rocker adjuster nut if the clearance was incorrect, however, I do check the nut to make sure it's tight. There's not reason to loosen the nut unless you have to adjust the clearance.
TIPS: Just completed this on my 2005 Acura TSX. Did it at 191,000 miles, was bored at home since my wife left for 2 weeks so figured what the heck. Did it "need" it no, but I did see that some of my valves were on the loser side or just barely out of spec so it benefited. Tips 1.) Use the ANGLED feeler gauges Uncle Tinman, if you use straight long ones they go in at an angle and will give a false feeling of being tight, I know I have both types of feeler gauges. 2.) If your not sure on the feel, try to insert the larger feeler gauge like .25mm gauge on the intake valve and it should barely fit or not fit at all while the .20mm on the intake will slide through easy no resistance. 3.) Remove the spark plugs so you can stick a ratchet on the power steering pump bolt to rotate it, makes life easier. 4.) Don't worry if youre off a bit when you rotate the cams to cylinder 3,4,2 because if you look at your cam lobes you can see they come off the valves and there's a pretty wide margin for error. 5.) Check you valve cover gasket by pulling a little bit of it out and squishing it, it should squish easy and not crackle or feel brittle, use a couple dabs of rtv on the semi circle portion when putting back on. 6.) Off course use brake cleaner prior to pulling the valve cover to get all the crud off so it doesn't fall into your engine.
if my math is right, you chose a guage slightly thinner than the spec, then tightened it so that it wouldn't fit in. I think your valves are running tight doing it that way. probably no noise, but don't know the down side...burning valves?
what year and make is the Honda r u adjusting the valves for? I have a 2006 CRV and I am wondering if I can follow your video per bedim... by the way thanks for posting its a big help for me and others.
Uncle Tinman, thanks for your video! I've been trying to find my valve clearances for my 2013 Honda CR-V but was unable to find anything. Do you have any idea what they are
Still active on here? Have a question about an oil leak I found but not sure what the cover belongs to. It's located on housing of timing/valve body and behind the steering pump. It's a rectangle cover with two bolts.
No no no that's one of the screens for the vtec system. You need to change them on occasion as well as the screen by the firewall for the vtec solenoid. If you keep the oil changed regularly they don't gum up that often. It's still a maintenance item though. The solenoid screen part is: 15815-RAA-A02 And the front one you see leaking is: 15845-RAA-A01 Get the genuine part they aren't that much.
For 2011 Honda CR-V 1st time valve lash adjustment (about 105K miles now), do you recommend to always change the valve cover gasket as well? Also is there a visual way to check whether the valve cover gasket (and the O-Rings) needs to be changed? Thanks!
For the valve cover gasket.. you can visually inspect around the edge whether there's any leaks. For the O rings, if you find an oil on the spark plugs.
Do NOT follow this guide for valve adjustment. Thats now how to use a feeler gauge for valve adjustments. The gauge you use should slip right back and the next size up should NOT go in. Thats how you do it correctly
Always heard the feeler drag should be able to fit but have some slight drag. Now, that being said, you could probably go on the high side of the tolerance feeler gauge and would be okay like doing it like this? Also, and I’m no car expert, but I read somewhere about it needing to be adjusted on a compression stroke.
Why not check and adjust the intake and exhaust valves at the same time? One cool thing that my dad pointed out to me many years ago...You can adjust the cylinder that is at the top of the exhaust stroke at the same time as the cylinder that is at top of compression stroke. The firing order is likely 1-3-4-2. You can adjust cylinders 1 & 4 at the same time, and 3 & 2 at the same time.
That's what was done. Perhaps it may not have been filmed or added to the final video, but yes.. you do the both intake and exhaust at the same time per cylinder. Thanks.
Thanks for your reply. Valid question. I kind of made in the perspective of the general viewers working at home.... trying to minimize the inconvenience of removing the wheel...just to show the viewers... it can be done without removing the wheel. Hope that makes sense.
I’m one of your subscribers. I also have 2004 crv awd with 105k miles and it sounds like a Diesel engine, no engine codes. so do I need a valve adjustment? I saw when you turn the crankshaft to #1 top dead center but I’m not sure about the rest of cylinders. How much do I need to turn for the rest? Is it every 90 degrees or any timing marks that I need to follow? Appreciate all your help and thanks in advanced.
You would need to turn it every 90 degrees to adjust each cylinder at top dead center (TDC).. to check that the cylinder is at TDC.. the rocker arms will be loose for both intake and exhaust... and you can also place a longer screwdriver into the cylinder and you'll see as you turn the crank itll rise up and down...and reach a high point.. that way you'll know that you've reached TDC for that cylinder....hope this helps.
I’m trying to do this but what I’m running into is that I can wiggle the top of each of those assemblies up and down, seems for as much or more than the thickness of the gauge. So if I pull up on the assembly, it will seems loose and if I let it go or push down on it, it will seem tight. Even with the 10mm torqued down, I can wiggle each one up and down and hear it clinking. Is this normal or should their be no play at all when you move it up and down with your fingers?
I just bought a 2006 crv and noticed some white smoke in the exhaust. I compression tested and all fine except the number 2 cylinder it makes plenty of psi but then leaks down. Any chance a valve could be off or is the white smoke only bad head gasket and coolant getting into combustion?
Great question. I would suggest doing another leak down and perhaps open the rad cap and see if you get any bubbles coming out. White smoke is usually more than likely a head gasket issue. I recently worked on one with a headgasket issue, but it was so severe it filled up the cylinder and locked up the engine preventing from starting. Had to remove the spark plug in order to start it up just to drive it into the shop. Hope this helps.
@@UncleTinman what are your thoughts on head gasket fix in a bottle? I just bought the car for my kid 1 day ago and now he’s bummed he can’t drive it. I’m worried if it gets worse he won’t notice the overheating and fry the motor. Any idea how much having head gasket replaced is?
Hello what is the sequence for Honda hrv 2020 And feeler gauge neded use a 1/2 inch drive to rotate the timing chain do store sell a 20 inch extension or special tools to
@@Hardenth50 good luck. Just find the specs needed and give it a try. I make these videos to help people, understand the procedure and work involved to do the jobs themselves. Cheers.
most of the tools are basic tools you can get from your local store.. home depot, craftsman, harbor frieght, etc.. The valve adjustment tool is from Snap On. shop.snapon.com/product/Metric-Jam-Nut-Type-Adjustment-Tools/Valve-Adjustment-Tool-(Blue-Point)/YA8895 Hope this helps.
![BabyChiefDoit - Too Slow (feat. STAR BANDZ) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zayaxws7RPg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for posting your video. I use to be a parts manager for Honda and was pals with the shop foreman who was an A-Tech. He taught me pretty much everything there is to know about these motors. Two things I wanted to mention to you, you are actually making the valves a little too tight. You should be able to slightly move the feeler gauge in and out while adjusting the valves, you should never have a situation where the feeler gauge can not pass through the gap otherwise you could damage the valves, especially the exhaust valve as it will get too hot and you can burn it. Lastly, its good policy to always remember to change the valve cover gasket after performing this service to avoid possible leaks. Have a nice day........
Thanks for your reply. Much appreciated
Been doing adjustments since I was a kid and I agree with some other reviewers; that method of adjustment would lead to a too tight situation a possibly damage to the engine.
I'm a retired motorcycle technician and machinist and I've checked and adjusted valve clearances on rocker type engines on hundreds of bikes and I only loosened a rocker adjuster nut if the clearance was incorrect, however, I do check the nut to make sure it's tight. There's not reason to loosen the nut unless you have to adjust the clearance.
If you can't get a feeler gauge in then the gap IS TOO TIGHT !!!
too tight if u can't get the feeler in, youre suppose to do everything you said but,back it off a hair b4 u tighten the locking nut
Thank you for your reply
Thanks for the video....my man works on cars for a living...so i am this video will help guide him to make this honda stop tapping....
TIPS: Just completed this on my 2005 Acura TSX. Did it at 191,000 miles, was bored at home since my wife left for 2 weeks so figured what the heck. Did it "need" it no, but I did see that some of my valves were on the loser side or just barely out of spec so it benefited. Tips 1.) Use the ANGLED feeler gauges Uncle Tinman, if you use straight long ones they go in at an angle and will give a false feeling of being tight, I know I have both types of feeler gauges. 2.) If your not sure on the feel, try to insert the larger feeler gauge like .25mm gauge on the intake valve and it should barely fit or not fit at all while the .20mm on the intake will slide through easy no resistance. 3.) Remove the spark plugs so you can stick a ratchet on the power steering pump bolt to rotate it, makes life easier. 4.) Don't worry if youre off a bit when you rotate the cams to cylinder 3,4,2 because if you look at your cam lobes you can see they come off the valves and there's a pretty wide margin for error. 5.) Check you valve cover gasket by pulling a little bit of it out and squishing it, it should squish easy and not crackle or feel brittle, use a couple dabs of rtv on the semi circle portion when putting back on. 6.) Off course use brake cleaner prior to pulling the valve cover to get all the crud off so it doesn't fall into your engine.
if my math is right, you chose a guage slightly thinner than the spec, then tightened it so that it wouldn't fit in. I think your valves are running tight doing it that way. probably no noise, but don't know the down side...burning valves?
I like your thinking. I've been doing valves this way for 25+ yrs for both race and daily driven vehicles and have never had any issues.
Gracias tío tinman buen vidio
what year and make is the Honda r u adjusting the valves for? I have a 2006 CRV and I am wondering if I can follow your video per bedim... by the way thanks for posting its a big help for me and others.
Thanks for the comment.. The one in the video was a 2004 CRV....your 2006 CRV would be the same procedure.
@@UncleTinman thank you so much UT... keep making the videos!!!
@@RAPTURE5770 🙏
So the intake valve adjustment is .008 and the exhaust valve is .011 - is that correct UT?
Never turn counterclockwise .. never
Right, on the K24 engine it is clockwise only
Uncle Tinman, thanks for your video! I've been trying to find my valve clearances for my 2013 Honda CR-V but was unable to find anything. Do you have any idea what they are
Thanks for your reply. Oddly enough those specs are sometimes on a label under the hood. Take a look and see
@@UncleTinman no worries man! I made sure to check but I couldn't find anything. Thanks again
@@UncleTinman intake...0.008 to 0.009 in
exhaust......0.010 to 0.011 in
found them :)
Would there be any damage to the engine if you rotated it at the power steering pump?
It should rotate the same. Won't cause any damage.
@@UncleTinman and is it totally necessary to remove the spark plugs when rotating the crank to check , valve clearance?
@@mustangjoe8352 removing the spark plugs helps ease the pressure of rotating, but not necessary to remove. It'll still spin, but just harder.
Taking out the spark plugs makes it very easy to rotate the motor.
My Honda has 216,000 always used synthetic.. still idles and runs great .
consistent oil changes with synthetic oil really helps preserving these engines.
Small world, my 03' has 216k miles on the odometer
@@hackdeez1075 same with my 03!
@@mr.orim0782 nice!
Still active on here? Have a question about an oil leak I found but not sure what the cover belongs to. It's located on housing of timing/valve body and behind the steering pump. It's a rectangle cover with two bolts.
That should be the cover for the tensioner. There's no gasket. Only sealant, so you can remove it and reseal and put it back on. Hope this helps.
No no no that's one of the screens for the vtec system. You need to change them on occasion as well as the screen by the firewall for the vtec solenoid. If you keep the oil changed regularly they don't gum up that often. It's still a maintenance item though. The solenoid screen part is: 15815-RAA-A02
And the front one you see leaking is: 15845-RAA-A01
Get the genuine part they aren't that much.
@Uncle Tinman that's the from vtec filter cover they need to change the screen out to stop the leak
For 2011 Honda CR-V 1st time valve lash adjustment (about 105K miles now), do you recommend to always change the valve cover gasket as well? Also is there a visual way to check whether the valve cover gasket (and the O-Rings) needs to be changed? Thanks!
For the valve cover gasket.. you can visually inspect around the edge whether there's any leaks. For the O rings, if you find an oil on the spark plugs.
Do NOT follow this guide for valve adjustment. Thats now how to use a feeler gauge for valve adjustments.
The gauge you use should slip right back and the next size up should NOT go in. Thats how you do it correctly
Way too tight
Thanks man!
Always heard the feeler drag should be able to fit but have some slight drag. Now, that being said, you could probably go on the high side of the tolerance feeler gauge and would be okay like doing it like this? Also, and I’m no car expert, but I read somewhere about it needing to be adjusted on a compression stroke.
Did you use the 008 feeler guage for both intake and exhaust valves?
No they're different for each.. should be 008 intake and 011 for exhaust.
Great video, thank you! How often do you do this and which symptoms do you look for to know when it's time?
Either do it for service intervals or if they start making noise
Grab power steering bolt off pulley 19mil/ 3/4 easy to access n work on
Why not check and adjust the intake and exhaust valves at the same time? One cool thing that my dad pointed out to me many years ago...You can adjust the cylinder that is at the top of the exhaust stroke at the same time as the cylinder that is at top of compression stroke. The firing order is likely 1-3-4-2. You can adjust cylinders 1 & 4 at the same time, and 3 & 2 at the same time.
That's what was done. Perhaps it may not have been filmed or added to the final video, but yes.. you do the both intake and exhaust at the same time per cylinder. Thanks.
Dumb question ? Why didn’t you take the wheel off ! It’s so much easier to do this job
Thanks for your reply. Valid question. I kind of made in the perspective of the general viewers working at home.... trying to minimize the inconvenience of removing the wheel...just to show the viewers... it can be done without removing the wheel. Hope that makes sense.
For all 4 cylinders TDC is same?
Essentially. Piston 1 will be at the top and all the valves will be closed.
I’m one of your subscribers. I also have 2004 crv awd with 105k miles and it sounds like a Diesel engine, no engine codes. so do I need a valve adjustment? I saw when you turn the crankshaft to #1 top dead center but I’m not sure about the rest of cylinders. How much do I need to turn for the rest? Is it every 90 degrees or any timing marks that I need to follow? Appreciate all your help and thanks in advanced.
You would need to turn it every 90 degrees to adjust each cylinder at top dead center (TDC).. to check that the cylinder is at TDC.. the rocker arms will be loose for both intake and exhaust... and you can also place a longer screwdriver into the cylinder and you'll see as you turn the crank itll rise up and down...and reach a high point.. that way you'll know that you've reached TDC for that cylinder....hope this helps.
I’m trying to do this but what I’m running into is that I can wiggle the top of each of those assemblies up and down, seems for as much or more than the thickness of the gauge. So if I pull up on the assembly, it will seems loose and if I let it go or push down on it, it will seem tight. Even with the 10mm torqued down, I can wiggle each one up and down and hear it clinking. Is this normal or should their be no play at all when you move it up and down with your fingers?
That's normal.. There'll be play once you remove the feeler gauge. That's the gap needed for the clearance.
Can you tell me the engine temp for make the valve adjustment?
I usually let it sit overnight before doing the adjustment.
Ice cold
Under 91 degrees
I just bought a 2006 crv and noticed some white smoke in the exhaust. I compression tested and all fine except the number 2 cylinder it makes plenty of psi but then leaks down. Any chance a valve could be off or is the white smoke only bad head gasket and coolant getting into combustion?
Great question. I would suggest doing another leak down and perhaps open the rad cap and see if you get any bubbles coming out. White smoke is usually more than likely a head gasket issue. I recently worked on one with a headgasket issue, but it was so severe it filled up the cylinder and locked up the engine preventing from starting. Had to remove the spark plug in order to start it up just to drive it into the shop. Hope this helps.
@@UncleTinman what are your thoughts on head gasket fix in a bottle? I just bought the car for my kid 1 day ago and now he’s bummed he can’t drive it. I’m worried if it gets worse he won’t notice the overheating and fry the motor. Any idea how much having head gasket replaced is?
Why doesn't he turn the front wheels so he can get at the crank better?
The wheel is already turned the fullest. Thanks for asking.
Hello what is the sequence for Honda hrv 2020
And feeler gauge neded use a 1/2 inch drive to rotate the timing chain do store sell a 20 inch extension or special tools to
I'm not sure of the gauges needed for a HRV. 2020 seems pretty new to need an adjustment. What's your mileage?
45k@@UncleTinman guess its new st ill but alighment i need yes? dealers charge 235 dollars darn i can do it with strings i see on video
@@Hardenth50 good luck. Just find the specs needed and give it a try. I make these videos to help people, understand the procedure and work involved to do the jobs themselves. Cheers.
do you need to drain the oil first then replace the gaskets and rings after?
No need to drain oil. If the gaskets have never been changed before it would be best to replace.
Nice video thank 🙏 you so much my friend but my question is where can ibuy the all tool
most of the tools are basic tools you can get from your local store.. home depot, craftsman, harbor frieght, etc.. The valve adjustment tool is from Snap On.
shop.snapon.com/product/Metric-Jam-Nut-Type-Adjustment-Tools/Valve-Adjustment-Tool-(Blue-Point)/YA8895
Hope this helps.
All you need is a wrench and a screwdriver.
Dors this reduce the gas consumption if the V?
It should help keep your car running efficiently.. including gas consumption.
Ichang the head gasket so do ineed valve adjustment again pleas and pleas my question thank 🙏 you so much
You don't need to adjust them if changing head gasket... but you might as well since you're already in there.
Head gasket? So, you took the head off the block? Absolutely you need to adjust the valve lash.
Looking good thanks for the tutorial. Looking at that oil do you think it was due for a change?
Thanks for your reply. The oil looks decent. I don't recall when the next service interval was for that particular vehicle. Cheers
Awesome video
🙏
Excelente vídeo
Going to extremes there with the extensions, aren't ya bud....... Lol
hah. yea. thanks