you said that the resin is TOXIC... does this mean that i can not use this as a AQUARIUM ORNAMENT for fish because it will poison them.. is this correct ?
@@gladiatormechs5574 I don’t know if the resin that I use is safe for aquariums after it is cured. It is definitely toxic in the uncured state. Reynolds Advanced Materials carries materials specifically for zoos, aquariums, etc. I am not affiliated with them. www.reynoldsam.com/application/aquariums-zoos-themed-environments/?pk_campaign=ramdyn&pk_kwd=
Even if I wasn't intending to add custom silicone mold making for custom resin casting to my already unwieldy, time-consuming, and costly array of hobby interests I have no room for, I would watch Roberts' videos. He reminds me of the cantankerous yet kind retired guy who lived down the block when I was a kid; As long as I stayed off his lawn, listened more than I talked, and showed some common sense he'd let me watch, and occasionally even assist, as he worked on his garage-shop projects. I learned a vast amount from him, every youngster (or youngster-at-heart) should be so lucky.
Thank you for the videos! Learning a lot! I got tired of having to use a wrench to open my “A” side resin and now put a little Vaseline on the threads after cleaning. It helps a lot!
@@RobertTolonehi Robert I just wanted to know if you can make 100 small toy pieces that I need. Can I send you a picture of what I need and if you think you can make the parts I can mail to you the part I would need the part made in a orange translucent plastic because I use led lights to brighten the lense.
Hi Robert, I just recently discovered your channel and I’m really enjoying your videos. I’m a beginner at making molds as a hobby. Today I started building my first simple wooden rotocaster, similar to yours. I like forward to more uploads of videos. 😊
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, seriously you are the best!!! I´ve been in that business for a prety long time, and always have something to learn, and I agree, cut molds are the best way so far!!
Thanks again, Bob, for your years of experience. I am always thrilled to get another video from you. I am watching all your library of videos and am hoping to open my own shop here in Canada. Thank you, the credit will go to you.
Robert, are you filling your pressure pots with air? That is very interesting. I see a lot of videos where people pour their resin and then put it under vacuum. Do you have information on why pressurizing your molds is beneficial compared to vacuum? Thanks in advance! Great videos!
Can i ask what the purpose of the hyperbaric chamber is? Is that something that's absolute necessary, or can you live without it? I also saw you (i think) de-gassing the latex in what I'm guessing was a vacuum chamber in another video? I assume that's to reduce the risk of bubbles, but are there ways to avoid bubbles that don't need a vacuum chamber? Thanks, by the way - your videos are great!
Uncle Bob!! May I suggest something? As you use up the resin in the original containers,, the volume of air in the container increases,,, periodically transfer the resin into smaller volume containers,,, so that there is less volume of air trapped inside the containers,,,,, Know what I mean, Vern?
Kevin Aguilar It’s a very good idea. Especially if you don’t use up the resin quickly. I don’t because the pressure pots allow me to use older resin and I refill the jugs from 5 gallon buckets of resin. So they are usually full.
Triple beam scale-excellent-will be buying one of those instead of digital!👍🏼👍🏼 Question: are you looking for a complicated sculpt to cast for your channel?--I’ve got one😮
@@RobertTolone Absolutely--you’re channel has been VERY informative!-however, this sculpt was made before I stumbled across your videos🥲 All new sculpts will be made with casting in mind👍🏼 Thanks!
Thanks for the clear explanation of why to keep the resin tops on tight. That do you think about using the spray stuff that you spray in the jug to block or replace the air from the resin?
You’re great, I love all of your amazing videos. Thank you for all that you do. Failing sometimes is part of the process. One thing I’ve been wanting to ask you is this: how do we know which material to choose to make sure our casted product is heat resistant? I’ve spent a lot of money on advertised materials from different vendors that have failed to give me acceptable results even though I followed their data sheets. Especially the fast setting materials. They are toxic and temperamental. What’s the point of wasting time creating molds if the casting material is not going to pass the test of time and temperature?
Not knowing what you’re casting I can only recommend that you consult with the material manufacturers to see what they recommend, then test the material to see if it works for your application.
Hello Robert, can you tel me what material those molds are made? perhaps silicon? and what kind of resin you're using for casting? i asume its epoxy resin because you're using a A and a B component, but seems a bit softer when you can just brush those fleece away with your nail.
Hey there, Robert! Like several others, I just recently discovered your channel and it's been extremely informative! I've been in the process of starting my own side business involving Resin Casting. However, I wasn't aware of just how important a Pressure Pot was until I started watching your videos. I have yet to watch the one where you take a 3D Print and make a mold and casting from, which is applicable to me as that's how I plan on making Masters for my molds. My intention is to make parts and kits for model trains in a few different scales. Have you ever done anything with model trains before? And if so do you have advice you could recommend?
I don’t have any advice specific to trains. If you are 3-D printing the parts that you plan to mold in silicone and cast and resin you should be sure to design the parts for the process. That means making parts that fill with resin and vent air properly so that they are easy and quick to cast. You certainly don’t want parts that are difficult to cast or require a lot of clean up afterwards. That’s a quick way to go broke as a resin caster!
Hi Robert enjoying and learning your videos. How important is temperature when curing resin? Will it cure below 60-65 degrees? One more question as I am very new to casting. Can I use WD40 as a mold release on let's say plastic bottle caps?
Temperature is extremely important. As you watch my videos you’ll hear me talk about this a lot. Cold slows down the cure and can’t even prevent it if it’s cold enough. Heat speeds it up. A good rule of thumb is if you are comfortable, the resin will be comfortable. 68 to 75°F is ideal. But you can use temperature to your advantage to control how fast resin cures. I don’t like using Petroleum-based molded releases with resin because resin is petroleum as well. It’s better to use a release agent designed for casting.
Hello Robert! Without a pressure chamber i do have a air compressor i use for painting miniatures (120/140 max psi) , is it hard to make a pressure chamber to use with the air compressor??
Thank you! Your channel is a great resource for learning casting. I'm starting to try resin casting and found that a lot of websites said you need to wear masks and protect your hands when handling resin, I wonder if that is really needed or is it related to the type of resin you use?
It’s a good idea an I recommend it. I wear them when necessary, like when I’m spraying or it’s unavoidable to handle the resin. Normally I don’t because I work clean in a well ventilated shop and actually have very limited exposure to resin.
I make clay projects I am watching all your vlogs, one by one, and I never get bored lol 😆 I want to start using resin in moulds that I've made, and I have already learnt so much from you, so thank you.
Thank you for making these. I am planning on making molds for some face masks. The front of the mask is a flat triangle with a square (4cm sides) hole in the middle. There are also four small protrusions on the sides of the mask with holes in them for attaching two straps. I want to make a single part mold like you always do. Do you think the 4cm hole is too big to cut out well? I only have a limited amount of silicone to work with so I want to make the most of it.
D353rt The hole should not pose any problems. The rubber bridge that goes through the hole should have a jagged cut so it locks together cleanly. Good luck with you project!
When I was learning moldmaking (long before the internet) my mold making supplier Silpak spent hours with me explaining the materials and how to use them. I use their resins and rubbers to this day. Partially out of loyalty but also because there is an advantage to using materials you know well and have used for a long time.
Hi Karen, that’s a very large subject! Basically they’re just different kinds of plastic. Both come in a very wide variety of formulations and uses. Here’s a sample of the info available on the web: acrylgiessen.com/en/epoxy-vs-resin/
Hi Rob - what resin do you recommend for casting fine detail items that doesn’t contain isocyanates? Im essentially looking for resin with the following properties: 1. Isocyanate (and other major toxin) free 2. Mixed viscosity: 80-300 cps 3. Pot life: 8-20 minutes 4. Shore hardness: >60 Less important Cure time. A long cure time is a worthwhile sacrifice if these criteria can be met. Color of material Cost. Thanks so much in advance!
Resin suppliers would be a better source of info on this than I am. The resins I use contain isocyanate which I mitigate using three strategies: lot’s of ventilation. Mask and gloves if there is a possibility of long exposure to the resin. Most importantly, very little actual exposure to resin. The objects I cast are typically small, the runs are very short so I spend only a small fraction of my time every week actually pouring resin.
Heat will not do it. You can buy containers of desiccant material that will absorb the moisture from the resin. You attach the desiccant container to the resin jug and it will absorb the moisture out of the resin. You don’t mix the two. The desiccant absorbs through the air. These are more commonly used on 55 gallon barrels of resin because it takes longer to use up so much resin. The reason I own pressure pots is so that I don’t have to worry about the resin absorbing moisture. The pressure pot suppresses the foaming caused by moisture.
No, it’s just helpful. The most important thing is to properly vent the air from the molds. I buy resin in 5 gallon buckets because it’s most economical that way. Over time the unused resin in the buckets absorbs small amounts of moisture from the air which causes it to foam when curing. A pressure pot prevents that so it extends the shelf life of the resin.
You can use a platinum-based silicone rubber and a water-clear urethane resin to make clear parts. The supplier I use sells both. www.silpak.com. They don’t sponsor me, I’m not affiliated with them in any way except I have been their customer for more than 30 years. Clear parts are tricky. It is essential that the part you’re copying is flawless and highly polished. Otherwise the casting will reproduce every flaw in the model.
I have never tried it but there are people out there doing it. A quick google search for “scented casting resin” got some results like this one: www.bnbglitter.com/listing/810904182/vanilla-scent-additive-for-epoxy
I use both, depending on the situation. I almost always degas the rubber in the vacuum chamber. I rarely use vacuum injection when casting resin for several reasons. First, it’s not necessary if you design a proper vent system. The resin flows into the mold and the air flows out without any problems. Second, the resin will expand A LOT when you put it under vacuum. So you have to design a system that contains the expanded resin. Otherwise it will spill all over your vacuum tank. Third, the vacuum process is slower. So you may not get all the air out of the mold before the resin begins to gel. Especially since I like to use fast setting resin so I can cycle the mold quickly. When the resin gels while expanded you have a mess of a casting. Finally, I have found that the vacuum process will not reliably remove bubbles in a casting. Better to vent the model properly to quickly and reliably fill the mold. Having said all that, there are production systems that place the mold cavity under vacuum and inject the resin into the cavity just using atmospheric pressure. But that’s beyond the needs and budget of most DIY hobbyists or artists. If you know of a simple vacuum injection system let me know! I love to experiment with it.
I am not sure that it is worthy of a video all on its own. It is simply a piece of 2 inch PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a fitting to connect it to the tank on the other. There is a valve between the muffler and the tank. Drill a bunch of holes in the cap and fill the pipe loosely with polyester fiber fill or any other synthetic fill. Even loosely packed fiberglass cloth will work. Glue the whole thing together with PVC cement and you’re done.
Great video - Just curious what you use as a colourant for your resins? I've seen powders, liquids, and even seen bloggers talking about using acrylic glue! What do you suggest?
The video coming out next Friday is about dying resin. I only use dyes or pigments that are specifically made for plastics. Anything else you add to your resin should be carefully tested. You never know when you might get a weird result!
Theoretically it’s possible to cast almost anything. It depends on what you want to make. Molding rubber can bond to porous materials like wood and paper so to cast plants you might need an appropriate release agent.
Urethane Resin shrinks very little, but not zero. Most casting resins shrink as a percentage of the mass. So it’s easier to measure the shrinkage on a large casting. Wax castings can shrink a lot, depending on the kind of wax you’re using. When making prototypes that have to be an exact size it is important to know the shrinkage of your casting material and make the model oversized to account for shrinkage in the casts.
Can't find any info for the resins or silicone you use. Not included in the video details.... Is a major help and you can generate revenue from product links too.
Thanks for watching! I hope that my channel is helpful to DIY makers and hobbyists.
Yes it it! Actually very very helpful and once i got all my materials i'm gonna start doing my project. Really thankful to you sincerly!
you said that the resin is TOXIC... does this mean that i can not use this as a AQUARIUM ORNAMENT for fish because it will poison them.. is this correct ?
@@gladiatormechs5574 I don’t know if the resin that I use is safe for aquariums after it is cured. It is definitely toxic in the uncured state.
Reynolds Advanced Materials carries materials specifically for zoos, aquariums, etc. I am not affiliated with them.
www.reynoldsam.com/application/aquariums-zoos-themed-environments/?pk_campaign=ramdyn&pk_kwd=
@@RobertTolone THANK YOU for sending me this link.. i e mailed them the questions i have... i so enjoy your channel.
I love the explanation as to WHY steps are done. Transparency is key for students to learn.
Great video Robert. You are a natural teacher, but those scales well I am 78 and even I would have replaced them. Thank you.
That vent cracks me up LOL!!! My wife laughed too.
I over love listening to you..... you give awesome instructions
I appreciate it Jay. Thanks for watching!
Very true!
“Gonna add a bit a yellow”. I love how you sing a lot while your talking. You’re always so pleasant Bob! Lol
Even if I wasn't intending to add custom silicone mold making for custom resin casting to my already unwieldy, time-consuming, and costly array of hobby interests I have no room for, I would watch Roberts' videos. He reminds me of the cantankerous yet kind retired guy who lived down the block when I was a kid; As long as I stayed off his lawn, listened more than I talked, and showed some common sense he'd let me watch, and occasionally even assist, as he worked on his garage-shop projects. I learned a vast amount from him, every youngster (or youngster-at-heart) should be so lucky.
Thank you for the videos! Learning a lot! I got tired of having to use a wrench to open my “A” side resin and now put a little Vaseline on the threads after cleaning. It helps a lot!
I’ll give that a try!
@@RobertTolonehi Robert I just wanted to know if you can make 100 small toy pieces that I need. Can I send you a picture of what I need and if you think you can make the parts I can mail to you the part I would need the part made in a orange translucent plastic because I use led lights to brighten the lense.
Hi Robert, I just recently discovered your channel and I’m really enjoying your videos. I’m a beginner at making molds as a hobby. Today I started building my first simple wooden rotocaster, similar to yours. I like forward to more uploads of videos. 😊
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge, seriously you are the best!!! I´ve been in that business for a prety long time, and always have something to learn, and I agree, cut molds are the best way so far!!
I love a good MDSS.
Thanks Robert for so generously sharing your experience and knowledge :)
Thanks again, Bob, for your years of experience. I am always thrilled to get another video from you. I am watching all your library of videos and am hoping to open my own shop here in Canada. Thank you, the credit will go to you.
Robert seems like a cool dude, excellent video 👍
You’re an excellent teacher. Thank you for making these videos. I’m a newbie at this and am learning so much from you.
Glad you find my videos helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Your videos are very clear, engaging and informative. Thank you for making these!
Thanks Krzysztof! Glad you find them useful.
Interesting as always. Thanks for sharing!
Robert, are you filling your pressure pots with air?
That is very interesting. I see a lot of videos where people pour their resin and then put it under vacuum.
Do you have information on why pressurizing your molds is beneficial compared to vacuum?
Thanks in advance!
Great videos!
Love your videos.
Thanks!
I just found your channel wanted to say thank you your videos are so helpful
Thanks Jim. Glad you find my channel helpful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Can i ask what the purpose of the hyperbaric chamber is? Is that something that's absolute necessary, or can you live without it? I also saw you (i think) de-gassing the latex in what I'm guessing was a vacuum chamber in another video? I assume that's to reduce the risk of bubbles, but are there ways to avoid bubbles that don't need a vacuum chamber? Thanks, by the way - your videos are great!
Uncle Bob!! May I suggest something? As you use up the resin in the original containers,, the volume of air in the container increases,,, periodically transfer the resin into smaller volume containers,,, so that there is less volume of air trapped inside the containers,,,,, Know what I mean, Vern?
Kevin Aguilar It’s a very good idea. Especially if you don’t use up the resin quickly. I don’t because the pressure pots allow me to use older resin and I refill the jugs from 5 gallon buckets of resin. So they are usually full.
@@RobertTolone You Just Put A Wrinkle In My Brain,,,, That Will NEVER Come Out!
Thanks a lot! Been watching your vids one by one
Awesome, thanks Nathaniel!
Triple beam scale-excellent-will be buying one of those instead of digital!👍🏼👍🏼 Question: are you looking for a complicated sculpt to cast for your channel?--I’ve got one😮
The trick to casting a complicated sculpture is to break it into lots of pieces. That way it’s just a bunch of simple easy-to-cast parts.
@@RobertTolone Absolutely--you’re channel has been VERY informative!-however, this sculpt was made before I stumbled across your videos🥲
All new sculpts will be made with casting in mind👍🏼 Thanks!
Thanks for the clear explanation of why to keep the resin tops on tight. That do you think about using the spray stuff that you spray in the jug to block or replace the air from the resin?
You’re great, I love all of your amazing videos. Thank you for all that you do. Failing sometimes is part of the process. One thing I’ve been wanting to ask you is this: how do we know which material to choose to make sure our casted product is heat resistant? I’ve spent a lot of money on advertised materials from different vendors that have failed to give me acceptable results even though I followed their data sheets. Especially the fast setting materials. They are toxic and temperamental. What’s the point of wasting time creating molds if the casting material is not going to pass the test of time and temperature?
Not knowing what you’re casting I can only recommend that you consult with the material manufacturers to see what they recommend, then test the material to see if it works for your application.
Hello Robert, can you tel me what material those molds are made? perhaps silicon?
and what kind of resin you're using for casting? i asume its epoxy resin because you're using a A and a B component, but seems a bit softer when you can just brush those fleece away with your nail.
What kind of to dye and silicone rubber are you using for your silpak resin
Hey there, Robert! Like several others, I just recently discovered your channel and it's been extremely informative! I've been in the process of starting my own side business involving Resin Casting. However, I wasn't aware of just how important a Pressure Pot was until I started watching your videos. I have yet to watch the one where you take a 3D Print and make a mold and casting from, which is applicable to me as that's how I plan on making Masters for my molds.
My intention is to make parts and kits for model trains in a few different scales. Have you ever done anything with model trains before? And if so do you have advice you could recommend?
I don’t have any advice specific to trains. If you are 3-D printing the parts that you plan to mold in silicone and cast and resin you should be sure to design the parts for the process. That means making parts that fill with resin and vent air properly so that they are easy and quick to cast. You certainly don’t want parts that are difficult to cast or require a lot of clean up afterwards. That’s a quick way to go broke as a resin caster!
Hi Robert enjoying and learning your videos. How important is temperature when curing resin? Will it cure below 60-65 degrees? One more question as I am very new to casting. Can I use WD40 as a mold release on let's say plastic bottle caps?
Temperature is extremely important. As you watch my videos you’ll hear me talk about this a lot. Cold slows down the cure and can’t even prevent it if it’s cold enough. Heat speeds it up. A good rule of thumb is if you are comfortable, the resin will be comfortable. 68 to 75°F is ideal. But you can use temperature to your advantage to control how fast resin cures. I don’t like using Petroleum-based molded releases with resin because resin is petroleum as well. It’s better to use a release agent designed for casting.
Hello Robert! Without a pressure chamber i do have a air compressor i use for painting miniatures (120/140 max psi) , is it hard to make a pressure chamber to use with the air compressor??
Most people modify a paint pressure pot. You need 40-80 psi max in your pot.
Thank you! Your channel is a great resource for learning casting. I'm starting to try resin casting and found that a lot of websites said you need to wear masks and protect your hands when handling resin, I wonder if that is really needed or is it related to the type of resin you use?
It’s a good idea an I recommend it. I wear them when necessary, like when I’m spraying or it’s unavoidable to handle the resin. Normally I don’t because I work clean in a well ventilated shop and actually have very limited exposure to resin.
I make clay projects
I am watching all your vlogs, one by one, and I never get bored lol 😆
I want to start using resin in moulds that I've made, and I have already learnt so much from you, so thank you.
That is awesome! Glad you find my videos useful.
Thank you for making these. I am planning on making molds for some face masks. The front of the mask is a flat triangle with a square (4cm sides) hole in the middle. There are also four small protrusions on the sides of the mask with holes in them for attaching two straps. I want to make a single part mold like you always do. Do you think the 4cm hole is too big to cut out well? I only have a limited amount of silicone to work with so I want to make the most of it.
D353rt The hole should not pose any problems. The rubber bridge that goes through the hole should have a jagged cut so it locks together cleanly. Good luck with you project!
what made you choose this brand of resin to work with? thank you for the tips
When I was learning moldmaking (long before the internet) my mold making supplier Silpak spent hours with me explaining the materials and how to use them. I use their resins and rubbers to this day. Partially out of loyalty but also because there is an advantage to using materials you know well and have used for a long time.
Hi Robert, Can you explain the difference between Epoxy Resin and Urethane Resin when casting?
Hi Karen, that’s a very large subject! Basically they’re just different kinds of plastic. Both come in a very wide variety of formulations and uses. Here’s a sample of the info available on the web:
acrylgiessen.com/en/epoxy-vs-resin/
Hi Rob - what resin do you recommend for casting fine detail items that doesn’t contain isocyanates?
Im essentially looking for resin with the following properties:
1. Isocyanate (and other major toxin) free
2. Mixed viscosity: 80-300 cps
3. Pot life: 8-20 minutes
4. Shore hardness: >60
Less important
Cure time. A long cure time is a worthwhile sacrifice if these criteria can be met.
Color of material
Cost.
Thanks so much in advance!
Resin suppliers would be a better source of info on this than I am. The resins I use contain isocyanate which I mitigate using three strategies:
lot’s of ventilation.
Mask and gloves if there is a possibility of long exposure to the resin.
Most importantly, very little actual exposure to resin. The objects I cast are typically small, the runs are very short so I spend only a small fraction of my time every week actually pouring resin.
@@RobertTolone Understood! Thanks for your reply.
Is there a way to dehidrate resin part A/B that has absorbed moisture? Can it simply be done by low heat?
Heat will not do it. You can buy containers of desiccant material that will absorb the moisture from the resin. You attach the desiccant container to the resin jug and it will absorb the moisture out of the resin. You don’t mix the two. The desiccant absorbs through the air. These are more commonly used on 55 gallon barrels of resin because it takes longer to use up so much resin. The reason I own pressure pots is so that I don’t have to worry about the resin absorbing moisture. The pressure pot suppresses the foaming caused by moisture.
Great as usual. Is a pressure pot really needed for quick curing resin?
No, it’s just helpful. The most important thing is to properly vent the air from the molds. I buy resin in 5 gallon buckets because it’s most economical that way. Over time the unused resin in the buckets absorbs small amounts of moisture from the air which causes it to foam when curing. A pressure pot prevents that so it extends the shelf life of the resin.
Can the resin that was sitting out overnight be saved with the vacuum chamber and pressure pot?
Great video.....I want to cast clear resin for diecast model windscreens.Can you tell me what rubber and resin to use please?
You can use a platinum-based silicone rubber and a water-clear urethane resin to make clear parts. The supplier I use sells both. www.silpak.com. They don’t sponsor me, I’m not affiliated with them in any way except I have been their customer for more than 30 years. Clear parts are tricky. It is essential that the part you’re copying is flawless and highly polished. Otherwise the casting will reproduce every flaw in the model.
@@RobertTolone Thanks Robert cheers
i was wondering how do you figure out if you can mix oils into the resins to scent the resin?
I have never tried it but there are people out there doing it. A quick google search for “scented casting resin” got some results like this one:
www.bnbglitter.com/listing/810904182/vanilla-scent-additive-for-epoxy
What are the tanks for?
Great videos, Robert. Out of curiosity, why do you use a pressure pot instead of a vacuum chamber?
I use both, depending on the situation. I almost always degas the rubber in the vacuum chamber. I rarely use vacuum injection when casting resin for several reasons. First, it’s not necessary if you design a proper vent system. The resin flows into the mold and the air flows out without any problems. Second, the resin will expand A LOT when you put it under vacuum. So you have to design a system that contains the expanded resin. Otherwise it will spill all over your vacuum tank. Third, the vacuum process is slower. So you may not get all the air out of the mold before the resin begins to gel. Especially since I like to use fast setting resin so I can cycle the mold quickly. When the resin gels while expanded you have a mess of a casting. Finally, I have found that the vacuum process will not reliably remove bubbles in a casting. Better to vent the model properly to quickly and reliably fill the mold. Having said all that, there are production systems that place the mold cavity under vacuum and inject the resin into the cavity just using atmospheric pressure. But that’s beyond the needs and budget of most DIY hobbyists or artists. If you know of a simple vacuum injection system let me know! I love to experiment with it.
Great detail! Does the detail stay through the # of molds you make?
Bette Levine Yes, the molds hold the detail for the whole edition.
Can you PLEASE do a video talking about how to make the muffler
I am not sure that it is worthy of a video all on its own. It is simply a piece of 2 inch PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a fitting to connect it to the tank on the other. There is a valve between the muffler and the tank. Drill a bunch of holes in the cap and fill the pipe loosely with polyester fiber fill or any other synthetic fill. Even loosely packed fiberglass cloth will work. Glue the whole thing together with PVC cement and you’re done.
Great video - Just curious what you use as a colourant for your resins? I've seen powders, liquids, and even seen bloggers talking about using acrylic glue! What do you suggest?
The video coming out next Friday is about dying resin. I only use dyes or pigments that are specifically made for plastics. Anything else you add to your resin should be carefully tested. You never know when you might get a weird result!
@@RobertTolone cool! Lookin forward to it.
Bob, quick question. Why don’t you seal the jugs of resin with electrical tape in order to make sure you keep the air out?
Because it’s too much of a hassle. That falls under the category of work.😳 It’s much easier just to use a pressure pot. Problem solved. 👍😄
Hi, can you do it with plants?
Theoretically it’s possible to cast almost anything. It depends on what you want to make. Molding rubber can bond to porous materials like wood and paper so to cast plants you might need an appropriate release agent.
Sir, I must ask, when you cast in a silicone mold, will the resin or wax shrink? I'm looking to get a 1 to 1 size
Urethane Resin shrinks very little, but not zero. Most casting resins shrink as a percentage of the mass. So it’s easier to measure the shrinkage on a large casting. Wax castings can shrink a lot, depending on the kind of wax you’re using. When making prototypes that have to be an exact size it is important to know the shrinkage of your casting material and make the model oversized to account for shrinkage in the casts.
Hi Robert. Great videos. Looking to consult with you on a project. How can we connect privately?
Hi David you can go to my Facebook page and message me there.
m.facebook.com/R.Tolone/
It's because isocyanate react with water i think.
Just look at it
Your funny l like that
Can't find any info for the resins or silicone you use. Not included in the video details.... Is a major help and you can generate revenue from product links too.
who the hell disliked this. show yourself
Yeah! What’s wrong with those people? 😄😄