The SHINIEST Models At RMRRF! - E3D, Duet3D, HEN3DRIK | RMRRF 2024 2
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- It’s the second video in the RMRRF 2024 series and you KNOW we had to talk to @E3DOnline! They’ve partnered with @Duet3DVideos to make some really awesome stuff, and we’re gonna tell you about it! PLUS we caught up with @hen3drik, who makes the shiniest prints around! ✨
Did you know about electroplating before this video? Did this video make you want to try it?! Let us know in the comments, and be careful around those dangerous chemicals!
Links:
E3D: e3d-online.com/
Duet3D: www.duet3d.com/
HEN3DRIK: / @hen3drik
/ hen3drik
Cards:
Voron Build Playlist: • VORON BUILD!!!
Bambu High Flow: • Make Your BAMBU FASTER...
Revo High Flow First Look: • Revo High Flow FIRST L...
Vision Miner/LDO/Positron Interviews: • STICKY UPSIDE DOWN 3D ...
RMRRF 2024 Playlist: • RMRRF 2024
0:00 Intro
0:38 E3D
10:13 Duet3D
16:53 Hendrik
28:20 Outro
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Hendrik came up and talked to me at the HueForge booth and I didn't know who he was (I was familiar with his work, but didn't know what he looked like) and I'm bummed I didn't get to tell him how awesome I thought his electroplating is!
Here's hoping he sees this ;)
for a second I thought he was using gatorade to do electroplating. LMAO
LOL you saw my face when he said it was Gatorade!
Thumbs up for hendrik. Love his channel and what he does.
right?!?!
The last fail, the blob of death. I had one on my a1. The best solution to fix it was remove all plastic near it, use a solder iron that you can crank up really hot (800 degrees) and make vertical slices in the blob on the front only top to bottom like a river channel with the solder iron. Make sure you get all the way down to the nozzle assembly. If you don't do this, you will wait for hours for it to heat from the inside. Now after the vertical canyon, start heating the nozzle and use the clippers for filament to start clipping the blob away while softer. 2 hours max doing it my way. Don't use a heat gun unless you have a tiny nozzle tip for the heat gun, because the heat deflects onto the housing of the hotend and starts to deform.
Hendrik is far too modest.. What he is doing is amazingly good.
That's what I am saying!
10:05 just carrying a random rocket lol
question nothing LOL
So much neat stuff!
right?!?
+1 for making Zack electroplate his Voron parts...as for stuff you could electroplate, I'm picturing some kind of Most Florida "Florida Man" trophy, perhaps with someone wrasslin' a gator? Electroplating bismuth might be a real challenge, but perhaps doing gold on copper with no nickel barrier layer to make rose gold would be something neat?
Making custom trophies is a great use case.
I have a bunch of Sulfuric acid I used for a prior project... I might try something in the future.
Greedy people/companies all over the world, most likely in every culture... Not many do what E3D is doing and that's pretty freakin' Awesome 🤘🤘
High Temp for sure!!!
exactly!!
LIke what E3D has done to make their products more affordable, and I know that I need some lab coats to look better!
heck yeah!
BTW my obxidean nextruder nozzle. I managed to squeeze out a line of about 3 inches. It's PETG. The allen key goes past the heatbreak now. However......filament does not. I thought about drilling out the filament, but the only bit I have that fits is too short. I originally tried the heat gun. It didn't do jack. I put it in the oven at like 450. That was the best way to make progress so far. Not sure what to do next. Fortunately I still have my brass nozzle.
the baking needs to be followed up by some sort of ram rod or something to clear the clog.
@@3DMusketeers That was the allen key. Problem is it doesn't get everything. I'd need something that was exactly 1.75mm in diameter. I don't know that I have that. Maybe I can get a longer 1.75mm drill bit? lol
it should get most of it. I believe the throats of the nextruders are around 1.8-2mm though as it needs to be at least slightly larger than the filament. You can use a drill bit but I would be careful not to mangle the inside bore too much.
@@3DMusketeers yeah I just need to get the path down to below the heatbreak. Thats where it's clogged.
Maybe I'm doing this wrong. Maybe I need to grab a strand of petg, and jam it in there. Let it glue itself to what's in there. Then bake it again. Maybe I can pull it out? lol Obviously I'd want it a little colder since that was hot enough to extrude before. Like a cold pull. lol
I wonder if the imminent release of the DHB from Swiss 3Dc had anything to do with the Revo price drop?
Im running a Duet 3 on my Pro 3D V-King 400, the best control board ever!
Doubtful. The REVO price drop was a few months ago. We never got a chance to talk to the swiss guys.. need to get them on a podcast
Well this makes me want to electro plate my printer build I'm designing and building on my channel. Would look soo cool!!
its so much labor, but prolly worth it!!
Yeah no doubt
Like Hendrik said, it's probably not too great on things that go through temperature changes as the plastic and metal have different expansion rates so it will probably crack over time if used on anything near the bed or toolhead of a 3d printer.
🏅🖨️FTW!!!!
honestly I like revo better than nextruder. If they could bring revo to the mk4, that would be great.
I wonder if it would be possible with all the electronics in the nextruder
@@3DMusketeers It would need one with a special connector for the love board. Other than that it should be easy enough.
thats fair. You would lose some of the functionality though. But maybe you could transfer over the load cell some how?
@@3DMusketeers It's in the heatsync part. So I'm sure they could pull it off.
that really is cool, but I don't want to screw with acid. So I'll pass.
yeah, I can understand that. Alas its generally required I believe.