I just asked about this a night or two ago with you. This is a great example on perfect customer support and a very good business person. But even beyond that just a good human being in general. Thank you and keep up the great content.
I like to use the square jig when I'm cutting pieces out. That way I can take the piece out and if any pieces didn't cut all the way I can just put it back and run another pass or two knowing it will cut exactly on the line again. . Thanks for making this. Saves a lot of aggravation
Thank you for the time and effort you put into this system! I just bought an xtool D1 used and was getting ready to design a fixture system in fusion 360 when I ran across your videos. I just downloaded the files for your jig this past weekend and will cut them this week.
I downloaded and just finished burning the honeycomb jig adapter everything work like it should now I just can't wait until the honeycomb gets here...lol
This looks like an awesome system! I don't have a dedicated laser engraver, but my 3018 cnc will take a diode laser. I may try to come up with a comparable system that will work with it. Thanks for your great videos, you explain everything very well
This is very helpful, thanks for your hard work man. I just getting started since I retired now. I have an Atom stack could afford the D1, but some day. Anyway thanks for the idea. Godbless Sir
Excellent setups. Suggestion -- why not remove the locking extensions on the top stackable piece? still get extra strength, but without extra difficulty of removing jigs. You could use those special dowel rods to align them when gluing them. Also, you could slightly modify several locking tabs (maybe reverse them to be eadily seen) to ensure only one place to lock them in. This could be an updated version of your files for new people. I have a different laser, but this is great for those that have the XTool.
Suggestion: Add numbers to the teeth on the locking panel. Then, once you install a jig panel for the first time, pick one of the numbers on the locking panel and write that number and an arrow by the corresponding slot on the jig panel. That way you’ll always be able to get the jig installed at the same place.
LOVE this idea! I think I'm gonna burn a new version of mine that I got from David, except go in and add numbers to the teeth. Shoot, what would it hurt? 🙂
You should add numbers to your jigs for the snap locks - it would help to align the jigs in future. Just picked up my first xtool D1 20 watt and look forward to checking out your jigs. Cheers!
Do you have the templates for the D1 Pro? I looked on your site but didn't see any. I also use XCS for my program. I would like to do coasters, leather patches, round coaster, squaring jig and maybe a few other. Appreciate any assistance you can provide.
Just nabbed the file with much appreciation. You mention the suggestion to make it out of acrylic which seems like it only has benefits. However, I notice you continue to make yours out of wood. Any reason to use wood over acrylic? Thanks!
Ordered this off Etsy, downloaded and I have 1unit. 1 piece not what I see in the video. I ordered the pieces for the corners and got this 1 piece again.
Quick question, when you are burning your jig panels, what do you set them on? If you put it on the honeycomb then it's not level with the locking panel. I am using the Wizmaker L1.
Not sure I understand what you mean by grid settings? If you mean that it is larger than your work area, something isn’t right. The files are made to fit in the work area of the machine that they are for. I have lots of different files. Some are a collection of burns but are intended to be tool lines until you are ready to cut
Hello how are you doing I just got the D1pro and am interested in making jigs for it to make thing easier just wondering if this is something that can be done with xtool creative space and what would did you use exactly and what is the size and thickness? Thanks
I am very new to lasers. I bought your jig kit and am planning to burn it tomorrow. Do you have any tips or instructions to make it easier? Love your videos and am looking forward to using them. Tom
I love your jig system. But, Is it really necessary to have this many tabs for alignment. Seems as though the smaller the tabs, the more fragile they are.
That is true but so far, I have only had one break and it was due to a void in the material. I have a newer version that I have improved upon in the making for future builds. The only issue is that changing the design will basically render older jigs unusable. I will likely move over to my latest design on my next kit. I may re-release the jig kit update for the other machines.
For a person just starting out, which would you recommend? the Neje 3 or the comgrow? I'll be learning all the basic engravings including tumblers and glasses
I prefer the closed frame of the Comgrow. The only thing for tumblers is the limitations of the rotary. For larger tumblers, you will have to get creative or use a different rotary
Hey man my name is Chuck Washington I bought the jig kit but I only have 12x12 wood and I did not get the dig tag jig or any of the jigs please help I live in Mobile use to live in Calera Al.
Once I cut the jig out and use a different jig, how do I make the Xtool go back to the original jig? Does it need to be set with absolute coordinates? I've made jigs in the past and never could get it to center exactly where it was before. I gave up and made paper jigs. Once I cut a 4x4 square out of paper, do the coaster right then without moving the laser head. I'm probably overcomplicating it. 😆
i am not understanding something. once i cut out a blank jig and lock it into place to cut out the template. i set everything up on my laptop in Lightburn to make the template. but each time i goto frame the template INSIDE the jig area...the crosshairs always go off of the jig...meaning the template wont be entirely on the sheet of wood/jig. what am i not understanding or doing wrong?!!!
@@TheClackShack I understand what you are saying and have watched your videos numerous times. My jig template is roughly 12" x 6" (including the teeth) that leaves me plenty of room for a 4" diameter circle template. Yet for some unknown reason my machine/software wont allow me to frame the circles in the area I want to cut out the circles. (I hope I'm making sense....I'm not a word worm and do better communicating via pictures/videos)
@@TheClackShack I do remember you mentioning that in a previous video. I just figured with the extension rails id work more from the front. Will figure it out once i get it. Thanks! Love the vids!
Do you have a video on how to lineup the jig in lightburn? Once I have the circle jig locked down - is there a trick to quickly line up the job? Im trying to wrap my head around it but once you have the first one dialed in the rest are good (if your using the jig as the template in lightburn) right? I made the jig into a tool layer in LB then Im having to move that around to frame the first and not sure how to tell if its good, 1/8" off on the first translates into all the rest being off yes?
This is about as detailed as it gets. If you use the files that I make, you should be really quick. You have to snap it all together then burn the holes and save the file. ruclips.net/video/aXJEEPKVqUc/видео.html
Three Questions: How does this work when using the XTool Honeycomb Grid work with the Jig? Can you do a #2 Pencil Jig for engraving pencils for my grandchildren's names? Does the file come with the settings for positioning the XTool to cut/engrave in those locations or do you have a video of the entire process, especially the computer screen? Thank you in advance! Hope I bought the correct files in the Etsy Store as waiting for the D1 Pro 20 W that I exchanged for the D1 10 W. Hopefully mid-August....
Yes, Yes and yes for some types of jigs. The honeycomb holder / adapter is needed for using the honeycomb. I have a video op me creating and using many jigs. Just search my channel with the key word jig. The process is simple.
How do you use the squaring/alignment jig with pieces that extend beyond the frame of the XTool. Example : 24 inch long cutting board where you need to engrave in lower left of the board?
Rotate it 180 degrees so that the burn is on the top, then orient the text accordingly (Upside down). That is why my engraving enclosure has a passthrough. You are limited to about 20 inches width to fit between the legs.
Thanks! Assume I would do the same if the burn was to be in lower right of stock. It would end up being too left of jig? I’ll check out the video. I don’t use Lightburn, only XCS if that helps
@@TheClackShack thanks for the quick response brother. Are there cutouts for the feet of the Z1, or is something else holding it in place. I see the 2 back feet sitting in the template but not sure if they are actually sitting in cutouts in the jig. Where can I find one of these kits as well? Thanks again for your kind help
@The Clack Shack heck yeah that's awesome I just ordered a extension and your jigs seem to be the go to. I watch all you videos for great information. Thank you
My Etsy shop, here is the link. I also have some ready made files that will help with making the jigs for some common items. You can also make your own files and just use my panles. www.etsy.com/TheClackShack/listing/1229695807/jig-kit-for-xtool-d1-interchangeable?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1660494868160
Thank you, thank you, I was a bit confused. Now I just feel foolish. Great design! Again thank you!
You’re welcome 😊
I just asked about this a night or two ago with you. This is a great example on perfect customer support and a very good business person. But even beyond that just a good human being in general. Thank you and keep up the great content.
Thanks… I hope it helps
He’s a good guy - that’s for sure !!!
I like to use the square jig when I'm cutting pieces out. That way I can take the piece out and if any pieces didn't cut all the way I can just put it back and run another pass or two knowing it will cut exactly on the line again. . Thanks for making this. Saves a lot of aggravation
That is a good use of the kit. Thanks for sharing
Someone recommended this video for some coasters I’m making. Saw you are from Chilton County. I’m down in Autauga! Small world.
I am about 2 minutes from Autauga County… hello
Thank you for the time and effort you put into this system! I just bought an xtool D1 used and was getting ready to design a fixture system in fusion 360 when I ran across your videos. I just downloaded the files for your jig this past weekend and will cut them this week.
Very welcome!
I downloaded and just finished burning the honeycomb jig adapter everything work like it should now I just can't wait until the honeycomb gets here...lol
I love this system. I made my jigs out of 6mm MDF to make the jigs more stable.
Nice
This looks like an awesome system! I don't have a dedicated laser engraver, but my 3018 cnc will take a diode laser. I may try to come up with a comparable system that will work with it. Thanks for your great videos, you explain everything very well
Good luck!
Great files! I will be using these jigs on my black and red co2 laser as well. Thanks very much for all of your work.
I should have a CO2 soon. Thanks
This is very helpful, thanks for your hard work man. I just getting started since I retired now. I have an Atom stack could afford the D1, but some day. Anyway thanks for the idea. Godbless Sir
I have an Atomstack P9 M40 also
Thank you for this video and for creating the file! This is great info.
Thanks, glad you like it. It makes my work easier
This system ROCKS !!!
Glad you like it...
Excellent setups. Suggestion -- why not remove the locking extensions on the top stackable piece? still get extra strength, but without extra difficulty of removing jigs. You could use those special dowel rods to align them when gluing them. Also, you could slightly modify several locking tabs (maybe reverse them to be eadily seen) to ensure only one place to lock them in. This could be an updated version of your files for new people. I have a different laser, but this is great for those that have the XTool.
I have revised the design since and it makes it stronger and easier
This is a great idea…..I have the foxalien masuter Pro machine, would be great to have something like this on there.
It makes a difference..
What a time saver. Thank you for your help. You rock!
Thanks
Suggestion: Add numbers to the teeth on the locking panel. Then, once you install a jig panel for the first time, pick one of the numbers on the locking panel and write that number and an arrow by the corresponding slot on the jig panel. That way you’ll always be able to get the jig installed at the same place.
Not a bad idea, I usually just use a marker to make timing marks.
LOVE this idea! I think I'm gonna burn a new version of mine that I got from David, except go in and add numbers to the teeth. Shoot, what would it hurt? 🙂
Do I cut on insied ,outside, onside , on shpes path , or inside sapes path?
Getting jiggly with it! Nice design!
Thanks
Terrific idea. Just getting started with all of this, but love this. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks
You should add numbers to your jigs for the snap locks - it would help to align the jigs in future. Just picked up my first xtool D1 20 watt and look forward to checking out your jigs. Cheers!
I have considered it but if you don't use numbers, it would just increase the burn time. The end user could add them easily enough. Good idea though
Hello, any video about how to make a jig locking panel?
No need, I sell the file on Etsy….lol
Do you have the templates for the D1 Pro? I looked on your site but didn't see any. I also use XCS for my program. I would like to do coasters, leather patches, round coaster, squaring jig and maybe a few other. Appreciate any assistance you can provide.
The D1 and D1 pro are the same frame. I have the kit in SVG format which can be imported into XCS. XCS didn't exist when I built this.
Great ty!!!
I hope it helps
Great video!!! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Nice video!
Thanks
Hello I have the Two Trees TTS-55 laser. How hard would it be to modify any of the jigs to suit my laser. Thanks love your video's. Brett
The locking panel would need to fit the legs of the machine. Everything else is not machine specific
I have an atomstack A12 and I want to use it on top of a honeycone, how?
Get a big enough honeycomb.. I do not have an A12
Just nabbed the file with much appreciation. You mention the suggestion to make it out of acrylic which seems like it only has benefits. However, I notice you continue to make yours out of wood. Any reason to use wood over acrylic? Thanks!
Wood is cheap
@@TheClackShack Bahahahaha. Well played, sir. Very well played.
referred by cog hill farm
Thanks for stopping by...
Ordered this off Etsy, downloaded and I have 1unit. 1 piece not what I see in the video. I ordered the pieces for the corners and got this 1 piece again.
If there was an issue, message me from your order. All the files are in the appropriate location in the store.
Sorry, newbie with dumb question: Can I use this jig system with a honeycone?
yes, The jig kit needs to be able to sit flat on the surface of the honeycomb. Either recess the honeycomb or space the machine up.
Quick question, when you are burning your jig panels, what do you set them on? If you put it on the honeycomb then it's not level with the locking panel. I am using the Wizmaker L1.
I have my honeycombs set up and they are level with my cutting surface.
Is there a video about how to use these with Lightburn?
Several. all I use is lightburn. ruclips.net/video/yF7znodqvpc/видео.html
@TheClackShack do have where you don't have a camera? I don't have one, and I don't plan on getting one.
@@richcauwels4897 same process just takes framing using a tool line
@@richcauwels4897 camera isn’t required if you frame
@@TheClackShack just have to guess the pre-cut squaring position until you hit the mark and then save as.
What are the grid settings? I imported the file in it goes over the grid??
Not sure I understand what you mean by grid settings? If you mean that it is larger than your work area, something isn’t right. The files are made to fit in the work area of the machine that they are for. I have lots of different files. Some are a collection of burns but are intended to be tool lines until you are ready to cut
Hello how are you doing I just got the D1pro and am interested in making jigs for it to make thing easier just wondering if this is something that can be done with xtool creative space and what would did you use exactly and what is the size and thickness? Thanks
Yes, with XCS you will need to use the dxf format but it will work
4mm or thicker for rigidness
Ok thanks for the info BTW I'm new to this is dxf format easy to find/ figure out
Is there a certain place you found 4mm + thick wood so far everything I find is 3mm
This may be a stupid question. Can we use your jig system with the honeycomb?
The only thing is to make sure the kit has a flat surface. I created spacers to fit the XTool honeycomb that makes it work with it
Once you make the jig in Lightburn and convert it to a tool path is there a way to save in such a way you can lock it to prevent changes?
There is a lock function, right click on the object and it is in that menu
I am very new to lasers. I bought your jig kit and am planning to burn it tomorrow. Do you have any tips or instructions to make it easier?
Love your videos and am looking forward to using them.
Tom
Search my content for keyword- JIG, lots of videos
@@TheClackShack thanks
Will this work in the wecreat?😊
With the Wecreat, you can make jigs without a locking mechanism. You just need item files.
I love your jig system. But, Is it really necessary to have this many tabs for alignment. Seems as though the smaller the tabs, the more fragile they are.
That is true but so far, I have only had one break and it was due to a void in the material. I have a newer version that I have improved upon in the making for future builds. The only issue is that changing the design will basically render older jigs unusable. I will likely move over to my latest design on my next kit. I may re-release the jig kit update for the other machines.
I bought the jig kit even before I bought my xtool. Looking fo tge upgrade
For a person just starting out, which would you recommend? the Neje 3 or the comgrow? I'll be learning all the basic engravings including tumblers and glasses
I prefer the closed frame of the Comgrow. The only thing for tumblers is the limitations of the rotary. For larger tumblers, you will have to get creative or use a different rotary
Hey man my name is Chuck Washington I bought the jig kit but I only have 12x12 wood and I did not get the dig tag jig or any of the jigs please help I live in Mobile use to live in Calera Al.
Not sure which kit you are talking about. Most can be adapted to 12x12 using the bolean tools
The Xtool D1 pro 20w square jig for 11.75 x 11.75 wood
Once I cut the jig out and use a different jig, how do I make the Xtool go back to the original jig? Does it need to be set with absolute coordinates? I've made jigs in the past and never could get it to center exactly where it was before. I gave up and made paper jigs. Once I cut a 4x4 square out of paper, do the coaster right then without moving the laser head. I'm probably overcomplicating it. 😆
Change cut line to a tool line. The jig panel has to be locked into the locking panel. I have multiple videos demonstrating
You cut out all the parts, snap them together, cut the shape, change cut line to a tool line. Your done just save that file as a jig template.
i am not understanding something. once i cut out a blank jig and lock it into place to cut out the template. i set everything up on my laptop in Lightburn to make the template. but each time i goto frame the template INSIDE the jig area...the crosshairs always go off of the jig...meaning the template wont be entirely on the sheet of wood/jig. what am i not understanding or doing wrong?!!!
All my designs fit on a 16x16, most can fit on a 14x14. Make sure its not a tool line causing it.
@@TheClackShack I understand what you are saying and have watched your videos numerous times. My jig template is roughly 12" x 6" (including the teeth) that leaves me plenty of room for a 4" diameter circle template. Yet for some unknown reason my machine/software wont allow me to frame the circles in the area I want to cut out the circles. (I hope I'm making sense....I'm not a word worm and do better communicating via pictures/videos)
This is awesome! Pre ordered a D1 Pro 20W with the extension. Can this jig be mounted in the front also? or just the back?
They antenna gets in the way on the front. I guess if you removed it maybe
@@TheClackShack I do remember you mentioning that in a previous video. I just figured with the extension rails id work more from the front. Will figure it out once i get it. Thanks! Love the vids!
Can I extend the jig panels, cause I have the extension bed kit for the d1 pro
I also have a jig extender that allows you to snap several together if needed but yes, you could.
ruclips.net/video/U2q8uh-xeZk/видео.html
What type material is that you're using?
I use 1/4 inch plywood.
Do you have a video on how to lineup the jig in lightburn? Once I have the circle jig locked down - is there a trick to quickly line up the job? Im trying to wrap my head around it but once you have the first one dialed in the rest are good (if your using the jig as the template in lightburn) right? I made the jig into a tool layer in LB then Im having to move that around to frame the first and not sure how to tell if its good, 1/8" off on the first translates into all the rest being off yes?
This is about as detailed as it gets. If you use the files that I make, you should be really quick. You have to snap it all together then burn the holes and save the file.
ruclips.net/video/aXJEEPKVqUc/видео.html
Waiting for the arrival of the d1 pro 20 w hopefully this week, I would like to know what type of wood is best to use for the jig?
As long as it is sturdy and won’t break, it isn’t material specific. I use 4.5mm plywood
@@TheClackShack thank you.
Three Questions: How does this work when using the XTool Honeycomb Grid work with the Jig? Can you do a #2 Pencil Jig for engraving pencils for my grandchildren's names? Does the file come with the settings for positioning the XTool to cut/engrave in those locations or do you have a video of the entire process, especially the computer screen? Thank you in advance! Hope I bought the correct files in the Etsy Store as waiting for the D1 Pro 20 W that I exchanged for the D1 10 W. Hopefully mid-August....
Yes, Yes and yes for some types of jigs. The honeycomb holder / adapter is needed for using the honeycomb. I have a video op me creating and using many jigs. Just search my channel with the key word jig. The process is simple.
How do you use the squaring/alignment jig with pieces that extend beyond the frame of the XTool. Example : 24 inch long cutting board where you need to engrave in lower left of the board?
Rotate it 180 degrees so that the burn is on the top, then orient the text accordingly (Upside down). That is why my engraving enclosure has a passthrough. You are limited to about 20 inches width to fit between the legs.
ruclips.net/video/6mstRqQAjwg/видео.html, look at 8:43, that is a passthrough for what you are talking about.
Thanks! Assume I would do the same if the burn was to be in lower right of stock. It would end up being too left of jig? I’ll check out the video. I don’t use Lightburn, only XCS if that helps
I was of course overthinking this. Thanks again- got it figured out (for now)
Can you use this with, or do you have files for the Comgrow Z1? Thanks much for all your videos!
The original machine, yes. ruclips.net/video/b-cJUvf3_c4/видео.html
ruclips.net/user/shortstvTcKvl3n6g
@@TheClackShack thanks for the quick response brother. Are there cutouts for the feet of the Z1, or is something else holding it in place. I see the 2 back feet sitting in the template but not sure if they are actually sitting in cutouts in the jig. Where can I find one of these kits as well? Thanks again for your kind help
Would you happen to have a jig file made for the extension kit or can this one just be stretched to work for it?
I made an add on that has male and female connectors to extend the current setup
@The Clack Shack heck yeah that's awesome I just ordered a extension and your jigs seem to be the go to. I watch all you videos for great information. Thank you
Question are these words on the xtcs?
Not sure I understand the question..
@@TheClackShack tha jigs work only for ligt burn, or they also work whit xtool created space?
Super dumb question here. Where can I find your jig file, the top one. 🤔 thanks!
My Etsy shop, here is the link. I also have some ready made files that will help with making the jigs for some common items. You can also make your own files and just use my panles.
www.etsy.com/TheClackShack/listing/1229695807/jig-kit-for-xtool-d1-interchangeable?Copy&ListingManager&Share&.lmsm&share_time=1660494868160
When you setup your jigs, do you always home your laser head, top left to start all your projects?
Yes,
@@TheClackShack thanks
What size wood sheets do you use?
I buy 4x8 full sheets and rip down to 16x16 inch squares.
Is the kerf counted in these?
It is designed with the cut path of an XTool D1 in mind but also to be taken apart if needed.
What is the thickness of the material you use for your jigs?
Typically 1/4 inch. About 4.9 mm
@@TheClackShack thanks!!!!
What thickness wood do you use for the templates?
4.5 mm is my go to for most everything
@@TheClackShack Thanks
Have you had a chance to update the file yet?
Yes, but Etsy apparently will not let me change it for past orders. Message me from your order for a direct link.
@@TheClackShack ok no problem
What wood do you recommend for the jigs?
4 mm or thicker plywood. you can use thinner but it may warp
@@TheClackShack I need to purchase some so 6mm will be good I figure
@@Fleshybitz plenty thick enough