Nice. We are very happy with our top and glad we once again went with the full camper back style. Makes for much more usable room, as well as more time 'outside' on inclement weather days & nights.
Yes, the 303 is a great product, but in these parts it's more than twice the price of plain old silicone repellent. . . Glad you guys were both entertained with this one ;-)
This was our spring project last year also. Wish I’d seen the Woods product before splurging on 303! I won’t say how much I paid for a gallon!!! But canvas is now clean and will only need a rinse this year. I will definitely look at the Woods product for waterproofing after rinsing if necessary. Great video Paul. Thanks.
A few years back, we had a marina neighbor who had just bought a new (to him) Sea Ray and was seriously considering replacing the canvas, as it leaked like a sieve when it rained. Fortunately for him, the lovely and talented Anchor Girl mentioned the silicone application and he did as you do, applied it with a brush and roller. End result? He had a waterproof canvas that only cost fifty bucks, rather than the $6,000 he was willing to fork out. . .
I like most of your vids becuz you give good info but I was expecting to see your prosses. Thanks for the WOODS tip though. You are right the 'Marine' products are hype
Thanks for actually showing the label of the Woods product, I've been afraid to just randomly buy anything that CTC sells for waterproofing and I know you've mentioned different times you've had lots of success over the years with one of the products they carry. Just curious, have you ever tried this over top of 303 with success in the past? If you'd rather not comment publicly, reach out to me privately.
I don't recall if I ever used a product such as 303 prior to applying regular old silicone, but I can tell you that when we did our first major cruise aboard #Boogaboo II, our 300 Sundancer, we discovered the top was leaking in one spot. Being in an area at the time that had limited 'marine' waterproofing products, I simply bought some silicone spray at Home Hardware! Not 100% sure on the brand, but I think it was STP that comes in small aerosol spray can, found in the automotive section. Worked fine for us in a pinch, but as I mentioned in the video, always do a test area in in an inconspicuous spot before doing an all-over application. Pretty much all of our canvases have been Sunbrella material, but other manufacturers may have different materials, etc., so proceed with caution.
Another great video, thank you. I have always used Sunbrella 303 for waterproofing, works well but is expensive so I'm looking forward to trying your way. Also, I noticed you leave your canvas on during the winter, any advantages to that? I always take mine off and bring it home. Thanks again Paul.
I've never, ever taken the canvas off of any of our #boats over the past twenty years. Never had any issues due to winter damage and the biggest advantage to leaving it on is that I don't have to take it off and reinstall again in the Spring ;-)
I found this statement online, I’m not sure if my canvas is partially acrylic so scared to use silicone >>>>>>> When using a spray-on product, make sure it does not contain silicone. The reason for this is that most canvas is at least partially made with acrylic fiber. The silicone sealant will break down the acrylic fibers, leaving the canvas more susceptible to moisture than it was before the treatment.
I can't speak to the type/brand of canvas you might have, but I've been using silicone waterproofing on our boats for the past 15 years with no negative issues. And no water coming in ;-)
I've always used "303 Fabric Guard" to treat Sunbrella fabrics and 303 Protectant for the vinyl upholstery. I'm thinking 303 is what Sunbrella recommends and the protectant was recommended to me by an upholsterer. A gallon of the fabric guard (waterproofing) is about $65 US so just a bit more than what you use.
I agree that 303 is decent product, and I'm not going to try and dissuade anyone from using it. My point is that we've had continued success with basic silicone waterproofing at a considerable savings. Keep in mind that your $65 in USD translates into almost 90 bucks in Canadian dollars, which is still almost double of the cost of the Wood's treatment.
Hey Paul , do you use to clean your isinglass? We use IMAR strait glass cleaner. There is a two step process to it. A wax that hydrates the glass and gets minor scratches and nicks out, you wax it on , wait till dry wax it off, and then there is a cleaning spray that you just spray on and wipe off with a microfiber rag. It will be soooo clear you would not even believe how well it works. It is very expensive, but we have been using it for thirteen years on our isinglass windows and they still look like new. It is very expensive but since you only need to use it about twice or three times a season , you can make it last for about three seasons! Give it a try , love to see your opinion on it , cheers!!
We have a much simpler solution - clean water and a good cloth. Anchor girl simply fills a bucket with water and wipes the plastic down with a 'Magic Cloth'. Do a Google search to see where you can buy those. They come under different brand names, but are basically a tightly woven microfiber cotton cloth that really soaks up well. Wet the cloth, rinse out and wipe off. Done. As you've probably picked up from many of my videos, I am not one for specialty products, or having the #boat filled with one-off products. Most 'Marine Grade' products are no more than everyday products that have been repackaged and doubled in price for the #boating market.
Hi Chris, Generally, the canvas/cockpit area are cleaned with simple household cleaners and that's it. As for 'restoring' vinyl, our approach is just to keep everything clean in the first place. Vinyl - and pretty much everything else - will wear due to dirt/sand getting into the seams and wearing them, out. Keep the dirt out and everything should last a good while. Our #boat is over 20 years old and apart from one wear area on a corner and a stupid cigarette burn (prior owner, not us), it looks like new. IF it gets worn, no chemicals in the world will bring it back . . . If you look at some of my replies to other comments on this one, we don't seek out 'marine grade' cleaners or the like, as most are nothing more than relabeled, everyday products with the only added benefit being a premium price.
I'm thinking that is a result of one of three things; Either there wasn't enough waterproofing applied in those ares, you didn't get under any flaps of other thick areas, or the stitching has stretched the material and opened up the holes bigger than waterproofing can overcome. As I mentioned int he video, I always completely saturate the entire canvas - so much so that it is actually dripping through to the other side. The biggest issue I think many folks have is that they buy the little squeeze bottles and apply the material way too lightly. It's gotta seep completely through to be effective. I'd suggest anther application.
I just submitted a new canvas job to shop for my 07 340 Sundancer. I’m
Looking forward to doing the same. Great tips!!
Nice. We are very happy with our top and glad we once again went with the full camper back style. Makes for much more usable room, as well as more time 'outside' on inclement weather days & nights.
You should have seen my wife's face light up at 00:00! LOL.......great stuff......it's amazing how therapeutic it is to see a boat in the water.
3:54: I also recommend 303 Fabric Guard......great stuff.
Yes, the 303 is a great product, but in these parts it's more than twice the price of plain old silicone repellent. . . Glad you guys were both entertained with this one ;-)
Best tip yet! Woods waterproofing.
Yup!
This was our spring project last year also. Wish I’d seen the Woods product before splurging on 303! I won’t say how much I paid for a gallon!!! But canvas is now clean and will only need a rinse this year. I will definitely look at the Woods product for waterproofing after rinsing if necessary. Great video Paul. Thanks.
Glad it helped you out. I'm looking forward to seeing AMFM looking sharp in your upcoming videos ;-)
We used the same sealer Paul. We applied it with a dollar store paint roller. Cheers!
A few years back, we had a marina neighbor who had just bought a new (to him) Sea Ray and was seriously considering replacing the canvas, as it leaked like a sieve when it rained. Fortunately for him, the lovely and talented Anchor Girl mentioned the silicone application and he did as you do, applied it with a brush and roller. End result? He had a waterproof canvas that only cost fifty bucks, rather than the $6,000 he was willing to fork out. . .
What are all these great video comments about? Not one section of this video has instructions on the cleaning/water proofing processes.
☺️
I like most of your vids becuz you give good info but I was expecting to see your prosses. Thanks for the WOODS tip though. You are right the 'Marine' products are hype
Cheers!
Thanks for actually showing the label of the Woods product, I've been afraid to just randomly buy anything that CTC sells for waterproofing and I know you've mentioned different times you've had lots of success over the years with one of the products they carry. Just curious, have you ever tried this over top of 303 with success in the past? If you'd rather not comment publicly, reach out to me privately.
I don't recall if I ever used a product such as 303 prior to applying regular old silicone, but I can tell you that when we did our first major cruise aboard #Boogaboo II, our 300 Sundancer, we discovered the top was leaking in one spot. Being in an area at the time that had limited 'marine' waterproofing products, I simply bought some silicone spray at Home Hardware! Not 100% sure on the brand, but I think it was STP that comes in small aerosol spray can, found in the automotive section. Worked fine for us in a pinch, but as I mentioned in the video, always do a test area in in an inconspicuous spot before doing an all-over application.
Pretty much all of our canvases have been Sunbrella material, but other manufacturers may have different materials, etc., so proceed with caution.
Another great video, thank you. I have always used Sunbrella 303 for waterproofing, works well but is expensive so I'm looking forward to trying your way. Also, I noticed you leave your canvas on during the winter, any advantages to that? I always take mine off and bring it home. Thanks again Paul.
I've never, ever taken the canvas off of any of our #boats over the past twenty years. Never had any issues due to winter damage and the biggest advantage to leaving it on is that I don't have to take it off and reinstall again in the Spring ;-)
I found this statement online, I’m not sure if my canvas is partially acrylic so scared to use silicone >>>>>>> When using a spray-on product, make sure it does not contain silicone. The reason for this is that most canvas is at least partially made with acrylic fiber. The silicone sealant will break down the acrylic fibers, leaving the canvas more susceptible to moisture than it was before the treatment.
I can't speak to the type/brand of canvas you might have, but I've been using silicone waterproofing on our boats for the past 15 years with no negative issues. And no water coming in ;-)
I've always used "303 Fabric Guard" to treat Sunbrella fabrics and 303 Protectant for the vinyl upholstery. I'm thinking 303 is what Sunbrella recommends and the protectant was recommended to me by an upholsterer. A gallon of the fabric guard (waterproofing) is about $65 US so just a bit more than what you use.
I agree that 303 is decent product, and I'm not going to try and dissuade anyone from using it. My point is that we've had continued success with basic silicone waterproofing at a considerable savings. Keep in mind that your $65 in USD translates into almost 90 bucks in Canadian dollars, which is still almost double of the cost of the Wood's treatment.
Hey Paul , do you use to clean your isinglass? We use IMAR strait glass cleaner. There is a two step process to it. A wax that hydrates the glass and gets minor scratches and nicks out, you wax it on , wait till dry wax it off, and then there is a cleaning spray that you just spray on and wipe off with a microfiber rag. It will be soooo clear you would not even believe how well it works. It is very expensive, but we have been using it for thirteen years on our isinglass windows and they still look like new. It is very expensive but since you only need to use it about twice or three times a season , you can make it last for about three seasons! Give it a try , love to see your opinion on it , cheers!!
We have a much simpler solution - clean water and a good cloth. Anchor girl simply fills a bucket with water and wipes the plastic down with a 'Magic Cloth'. Do a Google search to see where you can buy those. They come under different brand names, but are basically a tightly woven microfiber cotton cloth that really soaks up well.
Wet the cloth, rinse out and wipe off. Done.
As you've probably picked up from many of my videos, I am not one for specialty products, or having the #boat filled with one-off products. Most 'Marine Grade' products are no more than everyday products that have been repackaged and doubled in price for the #boating market.
Great video. Greetings from Miami FL. Interested in the link for the enclosure ,thank you.
Cheers!
Very helpful, thank you!
Glad it helped you out. But please keep in mind that this is the way I did it and is not necessarily the best or only way. . .
thank you
Wood's isn't a company, it is Canadian Tire's private label.
Thanks for the heads-up!
Great video Paul! What do you use for cleaning/restoring vinyl?
Hi Chris,
Generally, the canvas/cockpit area are cleaned with simple household cleaners and that's it. As for 'restoring' vinyl, our approach is just to keep everything clean in the first place. Vinyl - and pretty much everything else - will wear due to dirt/sand getting into the seams and wearing them, out. Keep the dirt out and everything should last a good while. Our #boat is over 20 years old and apart from one wear area on a corner and a stupid cigarette burn (prior owner, not us), it looks like new. IF it gets worn, no chemicals in the world will bring it back . . .
If you look at some of my replies to other comments on this one, we don't seek out 'marine grade' cleaners or the like, as most are nothing more than relabeled, everyday products with the only added benefit being a premium price.
@@BoatingWithBoogaboo o I’ll ok k know
What soap do you use for washing?
Can we do that on black canvas you think?
I will do some test but still.
Hertel?
Tide pods. Yup.
What about for seams? I waterproofed my canvas and it still leaks at the seams.
I'm thinking that is a result of one of three things; Either there wasn't enough waterproofing applied in those ares, you didn't get under any flaps of other thick areas, or the stitching has stretched the material and opened up the holes bigger than waterproofing can overcome.
As I mentioned int he video, I always completely saturate the entire canvas - so much so that it is actually dripping through to the other side. The biggest issue I think many folks have is that they buy the little squeeze bottles and apply the material way too lightly. It's gotta seep completely through to be effective. I'd suggest anther application.
Thanks for the advice. Ill try that this year.
Meant to say isinglass cleaner NOT strait glass cleaner lol😂
Strato Glass?
Theme music at start of video way too loud!