You need a bo-bo loco to cope with the track, we are restoring our garret steam loco in 7.25 inch now, at Moors Valley. a small electric bo bo I could do with for engineering trips. Thanks for the content, Neil.
A tool to consider would be a track vertical prybar/lift. A shovel handle, and a base that has a wide foot of 12" or do. Two or three tines sticking out that would slip between the ties. Maybe a vertical stop on the tines so that when you slip this through the tie gaps and under the rail, it stops only a few inches in. You could pivot or lever against the foot on the ballast and easily lift the track to make tampering and filling a lot easier.
Nothing like last minute tamping just to run a train. I used to do that by hand on a full size RR back in the late 80's. We started by driving a spud bar between the ties in the gauge next to the low rail to bring the track up, then did the outside to make it match the elevation we made. Lots of back breaking work. We also would lay our head on the rail head looking down the rail to see dips, high spots, and kinks. BTW I love that level on a truck idea. That is cool. And the camera in the cab looking out the window is great too. Would be cool to see out the front too as she runs around the line. :)
I have a hand tamping bar that I think came from my great-great grandfather, who was track foreman for the White River Valley Railroad in Vermont. It's way too heavy for track work here but it and a few just like it have held up wood piles on the property for the better part of the last century.
@@MillBrookRailroad Yeah those track tools are very heavy and large. I remember walking miles tightening track joints carrying or dragging that long wrench with me on a cold March day. Will be cool to see the views out the cab for sure. Oh I solved my slide valve issue. I removed the block that locks the slide valve in and drilled two shallow holes in it, then inserted two coil springs that would push the slide valve against the ports. It worked like a charm. At first fire up, I opened the throttle and she started up with no blow by at all and more power than ever. After a few hours run time I might remove the springs after she has a chance to lap in so they are as designed.
@@s16100 Excellent! Glad to hear you got the valve problem worked out. I think my favorite part of maintaining such a small gauge railroad is how heavy the tools aren't.
I had a coal train come apart like that one night. Coming off the Belle Fourche River bridge a car bounced and overrode the coupler behind. In the dark, the Conductor didn't see that one was on top of the other, he just recoupled the air hoses. When I pulled again, it dropped off and we were in emergency again. When he looked closer, he saw the scrape marks on top of the knuckle.
That must be the leftover precipitation that's finishing its blow thru. Still has that much water, wow. Glad it didn't stick around long to give up that inch. Lots of wind sneeze around is about it.
There was a bump in the track, that´s why they uncoupled. May be that won´t have happened with F type couplers. But nobody makes them in miniature. Only the E type. That was an impressive way to add more wheels scars on ties. Luckily nothing broke. You should have show us in slow motion mode also. Smart Aaron applies weight restrictions load for the thaw season. Good work. All videos have their share of new and unpredictable events.
What do you use for ties etc.? My neighbor has started to build his railroad here in Alabama and he is using plastic ties laid on a concrete sub roadbed.
I use pressure treated 2x4's, ripped in half and cut to 12 inches long. When I built the railroad, however, I used any wood I could get. So, a lot of the ties in the ground at the moment are untreated pine roughly 2x2, and vary in length from 10 inches to 16 inches. 12 inches seem to work best and the painted ties seem to last the longest. Your neighbor seems to be building well. The concrete base will give the railroad a firm foundation and the plastic ties should have a long life.
You need a bo-bo loco to cope with the track, we are restoring our garret steam loco in 7.25 inch now, at Moors Valley. a small electric bo bo I could do with for engineering trips. Thanks for the content, Neil.
A tool to consider would be a track vertical prybar/lift. A shovel handle, and a base that has a wide foot of 12" or do. Two or three tines sticking out that would slip between the ties. Maybe a vertical stop on the tines so that when you slip this through the tie gaps and under the rail, it stops only a few inches in. You could pivot or lever against the foot on the ballast and easily lift the track to make tampering and filling a lot easier.
Thanks
Love the view out the window.
Nothing like last minute tamping just to run a train. I used to do that by hand on a full size RR back in the late 80's. We started by driving a spud bar between the ties in the gauge next to the low rail to bring the track up, then did the outside to make it match the elevation we made. Lots of back breaking work. We also would lay our head on the rail head looking down the rail to see dips, high spots, and kinks. BTW I love that level on a truck idea. That is cool. And the camera in the cab looking out the window is great too. Would be cool to see out the front too as she runs around the line. :)
I have a hand tamping bar that I think came from my great-great grandfather, who was track foreman for the White River Valley Railroad in Vermont. It's way too heavy for track work here but it and a few just like it have held up wood piles on the property for the better part of the last century.
I'll probably have views out the front soon. I bought a cheap GoPro knockoff that I'll mount inside the cab.
@@MillBrookRailroad Yeah those track tools are very heavy and large. I remember walking miles tightening track joints carrying or dragging that long wrench with me on a cold March day. Will be cool to see the views out the cab for sure. Oh I solved my slide valve issue. I removed the block that locks the slide valve in and drilled two shallow holes in it, then inserted two coil springs that would push the slide valve against the ports. It worked like a charm. At first fire up, I opened the throttle and she started up with no blow by at all and more power than ever. After a few hours run time I might remove the springs after she has a chance to lap in so they are as designed.
@@s16100 Excellent! Glad to hear you got the valve problem worked out.
I think my favorite part of maintaining such a small gauge railroad is how heavy the tools aren't.
I really like your railroad and your videos. Thanks for sharing them.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice video, I like your truck and level for checking track, great idea. Wayne
Wow very nice enjoyed your video thanks for sharing DD.
Always fun to see the 70 at work!
It'll work even better after I replace the suspension.
Friends r good.
great video, there is alway's something happening (that's railroading) think that's why i watch, good shot's in it.nice one....
Thanks for watching! There's plenty more to come.
You need to call mow foreman Batman in and have a talk about that track condition.
The last time I had a talk with him about his performance, he walked away from me while I was speaking.
@@MillBrookRailroad Typical cat...
I had a coal train come apart like that one night. Coming off the Belle Fourche River bridge a car bounced and overrode the coupler behind. In the dark, the Conductor didn't see that one was on top of the other, he just recoupled the air hoses. When I pulled again, it dropped off and we were in emergency again. When he looked closer, he saw the scrape marks on top of the knuckle.
It's amazing how much a coupler (and indeed, the end of a car!) can take without breaking.
That must be the leftover precipitation that's finishing its blow thru. Still has that much water, wow. Glad it didn't stick around long to give up that inch. Lots of wind sneeze around is about it.
There was a bump in the track, that´s why they uncoupled. May be that won´t have happened with F type couplers. But nobody makes them in miniature. Only the E type.
That was an impressive way to add more wheels scars on ties. Luckily nothing broke. You should have show us in slow motion mode also.
Smart Aaron applies weight restrictions load for the thaw season.
Good work. All videos have their share of new and unpredictable events.
Prototype rail 39' stagger 18' 7.5" Gage 3~7'
Doing the tamp dance. Is the horseshoe curve super elevated? The cab view is perfect.
The curve is supposed to be superelevated but I think I may have too much rail on the inside of the upper curve there.
on those long curves ,a odd stake driven into the ground on the outside to the track might stop track moving out wards
Who was your assistant? Glad you had someone there to help you. Looks like you have your hands full with track rehab this year.
That was my brother-in-law.
What do you use for ties etc.? My neighbor has started to build his railroad here in Alabama and he is using plastic ties laid on a concrete sub roadbed.
I use pressure treated 2x4's, ripped in half and cut to 12 inches long. When I built the railroad, however, I used any wood I could get. So, a lot of the ties in the ground at the moment are untreated pine roughly 2x2, and vary in length from 10 inches to 16 inches. 12 inches seem to work best and the painted ties seem to last the longest.
Your neighbor seems to be building well. The concrete base will give the railroad a firm foundation and the plastic ties should have a long life.
@@MillBrookRailroad Thanks for the reply
Well the MBR is back a derailment has been detected and have you considered a pellet silo and a few hopper cars
Would it be a MLBK video without a derailment?
Lol its suppose to be fun working on the rr !!!
Some days are more fun than others. That's railroading!
you need to go with thicker rails.. also a lot of frequent derailments
There are many reasons for derailments. The rails themselves aren't always to blame.