Rob, you have no idea how thankful I am for your videos. I really want to thank you for the hard work that you put on making them. This one inspired me to implement something very similar, although since my existing doorbell uses RF 433Mhz and I already have a Sonoff RF bridge, it was very easy to just use the RF signal instead of having to add a nodemcu. Thank again for all you do.
This is great - I did almost exactly the same thing about a year ago - same doorbell, wired it up to a Wemos D1 mini, used the led flash to trigger an input on the D1 which then sent an MQTT message to Node Red. Powered the whole thing off an old 5v phone charger. Nice work!
Great video!! - just built a version of this but used IFTTT as I haven’t been brave enough to use HA yet! Added a hacked echo button with relay so Alexa announces across the house that someone is at the door when doorbell is pressed - thanks again for great vid👍
Dunno if anyone gives a damn but if you're stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all of the new series on Instaflixxer. I've been binge watching with my gf for the last few months =)
In ESPHome you just need to add a filter section to stop the sensor triggering with every flash. I used 5 seconds, but you can adjust accordingly. binary_sensor: - platform: gpio name: "Doorbell" pin: number: D0 inverted: False mode: INPUT_PULLDOWN_16 filters: - delayed_off: 5s
THANKS SO MUCH!!!! I got this working with the newer non-battery powered one. You were so right with working through the code and getting it just right!
@@GG-kq6ok imgur.com/L56Zg2P That is a link to a picture of the board. I labeled what Ground, 5v, and the LED pin you need to hook up to D0. You will want to remove the mains from it completely and hook it up to a 5v charger. The transformer in this thing doesn't have enough amperage for the nodemcu and the door bell chime unfortunately. :( I hope this helps!!
@@krdesigns Sorry for the late reply here is the link to the doorbell I used. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017SJKYQ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 As for a guide I haven't made one but if you feel like you could use one I could look into making one.
Thank you for this very helpful guide. I have recently brought the new version of the 1byone. Indeed the methodology still works, but 1) for the LED, need to connect to the ground not the positive, 2) for the 2N2222, need to connect after the 1byone is powered on (otherwise the sound is not functioning at all).
How do you do this if I may ask. I was thinking same. I need to Doorbell and would like to use Broadlink 1SC hub or if possible Broadlink Pro+. I do not think I could add 3rd partly BF sender with 1SC kit. Any hints would be useful
I ended up having some issues with the Smart Doorbell Arduino sketch. I was getting ghost rings after about a week of it working flawlessly and once they started they would trigger every 5 to 15 minutes, over and over again. Could have been the Adafruit Huzzah Feather board I am using vs. the NodeMCU board, but I couldn't figure out the issue. I even ended up completely rewriting the Arduino code removing all the Serial.print code and debounced the LED to help look for noise. I also looked over the HIGH / LOW NodeMCU boot-up diagrams you provided, to which everything looked good. But again worked great for about a week but ended up going nuts again after a quick power surge. For anyone wondering ... yes, it's plugged into a surge protector. I finally ended up installing Tasmota on the Huzzah Feather and setting the Audio to Relay1, LED Trigger to Switch2 and the Reed Switch to Switch3. I updated my Node-Red MQTT topics and now everything has been running for about two weeks with no issues. EDIT - Update 1 (3 Days Later): Over the weekend another power surge with a heavy rainstorm and ghost ringing started all over again. So let me retract everything above! This time with the Tasmota console I was able to see the problem was the push button ringer. Tasmota showed that it looked like the button had been pressed. At which point I went outside grabbed the button, opened it up, removed the battery and let it sit. Ghost ringing stopped and I let it sit for a couple hours just to make sure. Guessing some humidity was getting into the push button and also guessing there were some cold solder joints. So, I re-soldered everything and covered the electronics with a thin layer of Polymorph minus the button and LED. I also, added an 18650 with a 03962A-Micro USB 5V 1A Lithium Battery Charger with Protection to the indoor unit. Hoping this does the trick and if not I will add another update here to where I change the board or bought another push button. Just wanted to throw this out there if anyone else was having similar issues. Still a great project, so thanks for creating and putting it up on RUclips!
Hi, I'm trying, in vain, to get this working with Tasmota. I have everything up and running as per your settings :) But the one thing I can't figure out is the LED flashing multiple times and causing ON/OFF messages/notifications. I'm no coder etc, I can see from TheHookUps code that he has implemented some code so that you only get one notification, instead of many. I was wondering how you had done that with Tasmota?
I had the same issue with ghost "rings". I think the fix is to change the channel of the door bell. Instructions say to remove battery for 1 minute, then press channel button. So far so good for me!
been waiting for the reed switch code...now need to figure out how to add it to the ben's multinode sensor. Also thank you for the bonus tutorial about the hassio addon, that is awesome.
I thought about including all those sensors in this project as well, there's plenty of room inside the doorbell case to fit them, and plenty of open pins on the nodemcu.
Hi Rob. Firstly, thanks for the great videos. I'm new to Home Assistant and Node Red but slowly putting things together with your help, and DrZZS. Have you already covered any details about the camera setup you have to get those images into Home Assistant? If not, any chance of a video with some pointers on how to get started? I don;t have any IP cameras in place yet but if there are any makes and models that work best with Home Assistant I'd be interested in your thoughts. Thanks
Hi thanks for all the great videos been watching them to help the start of my home automation journey. Along with setting up HA, I am creating a version of the door bell project. This leads me to some questions ? So in your door dell sketch you have a topic of ‘checkin’ Is this just your own topic or a common topic ? Also do you setup individual username/passwords for all of your devices and do you do it in Mosquito or Home assistant. Thanks Rob look forward to the next project. Cheers Tim
It would be awesome to post an updated video with a D1 Mini 32 and video camera integration for those of us who don't already have a camera and want something a little more like a Ring doorbell...
I would like to propose a challenge for you. I think your video to integrate a doorbell is fantastic. My challenge is to add face recognition to your doorbell project. There are several codes available for face recognition and after that, use Alexa to announce who is outside. I think you are the best person to do that. I will be happy to see your solution.
Hey Rob, I know this is an old video, but I have the plug-in version (UK) of this doorbell, could I just connect everything apart from the 3v3/Ground of the NodeMCU to the 1 by One board and then plug in the NodeMCU next to the plugged in doorbell? Cheers.
Thanks for this. Ordered the doorbell. Still a bit of a noob (I use ESPHOME and Hassio automations) but on face value it appears ESPHOME has a bunch of binary sensor timers I can play with for the chime detection. I'll see how I go.
I got this working nicely with just esphome. I dare say the option wasn't available at the time. I just added the following to the binary sensor: filters: - delayed_off: 6000ms
Thank you for a great video. The way you do your videos is very easy to follow. Please could you do some videos on setting and using home assistant. Andy
I'm trying not to remake videos that I think are already made well somewhere else on youtube. Is there a specific part of home assistant setup that you aren't able to find on youtube?
Just a heads up that my board was broadcasting an SSID of esp8266_last 6 digits of mac - consuming channel frequency otherwise used for day to day wifi so I prefer to run the module without that - I modified the source code at line 37 just before the wifi is started to state: WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA); to set it to not act as a AP as well, works and no longer any odd wifi SSID's!
Hi, I think your wotk is great!! I've implemented the doorbell and the pc remote switch and they work perfect!! I wonder if maybe you could improve the code so the device hostname can be configured and we could find it easily it in the network, and maybe it could have a little web server to show its name and ip address. Tkanks!!
So could I just use the doorbell that is hardwired into my front door to trigger something in home assistant to activate the camera, and send a notification to my phone?
Can we set up the door open/close only through the hassio add on method? If so does it have a battery config so that it programs deep sleep? If not it may be a good thing to show if you do an “customer feedback review video again” :)
I tried that, you can't filter a binary_sensor, only a sensor, and setting up a custom sensor was way more detail than I was looking to include in the video (it's actually easier to just use arduino if you're going to use custom sensors).
In 1.7.0, esphomeyaml will have binary sensor filters support :) I'm currently writing all the docs for that release and hoping I can push the release today 🎉 Edit: + also RF receiver/transmitter support :)
I just made this project myself. The 2N2222 is hooked up on the switch, and actually bridges between the LED and sound paths. When the transistor is up it lets the current pass, else it's silent. I know it's a year old, but maybe you're still wondering? ;)
@@Ghust2 Hey - can you help, where on my board would I put the 2N2222, please? simpletosmart.com/images/Doorbell_QH-823AK_Front.jpg simpletosmart.com/images/Doorbell_QH-823AK_back.jpg Cheers
Hello. Sir, the thing you've done is great, but you do not mind, I did not get in too well. Have you installed Hassio on a virtual machine or linux? if so, does it behave like a server and keep it running always to communicate with the MQTT and ESP8266 application? I'm a beginner and I'm very much asking you to help me install Hassio. Or at least guide me to a tutorial for beginners. Thank you very much.
Hi Rob I had this working for many months. I stooped updating Hass.io from firmware 0.74 for many months because I was busy moving places and I did not want to deal with break in changes changes etc and then updated to 0.84 and now running latest hass.io. My doorbell since I updated hass.io broke and I spend lot of time to analyse and fix it but no luck. I used MQTTlense and I can see that MQTT message "Ding" get transmitted when I press the doorbell. Also the the sensor sensor: - platform: mqtt name: "Doorbell" state_topic: "doorbell" expire_after: 10 seems to be working because I can see in the logbook the state change entry at the time of pressing the door bell - for instance "7.15PM: Doorbell changed to unknown" However for whatever automation below does not trigger - alias: 'Doorbell_Notify' trigger: platform: mqtt topic: doorbell payload: 'Ding' action: - service: camera.snapshot data: entity_id: camera.dafang_extrance filename: '/config/temp/ENTRANCE.jpg' - service: notify.mypushbullet data: title: Doorbell message: 'Check who has come' data: file: /config/temp/ENTRANCE.jpg When if I change the trigger to fixed time or to my broadlink door sensor the automation trigger but for some reason it does not trigger for the following MQTT as per your original instrction trigger: platform: mqtt topic: doorbell payload: 'Ding' I could not find any breaking changes relating to it to get working with latest version of HAss.io. So my question is for you is it still working. I did not do any changes to the NodeMCU and remain same before. Many thanks
@@TheHookUp Thanks Rob. I am not very good with Node red so I took a shortcut. I converted action part of my automation as a script and got rid of automation. Used input MQTT node to trigger service (script). It works now. So something has changed in HA to stop triggering automation based on MQTT payload I better spend more time on node red because HA is breaking things Thanks Sanjeewa
Awesome video. I love tinkering with electronics so I'm going to choose the Arduino route. My question is what if I'd like to go with an AC/DC powered chime instead of battery operation. How would this change my wiring design?
You'd need to find a 5 volt source on the inside of the board, if you aren't super comfortable looking at a circuit board and finding high and low voltage areas I wouldn't recommend it.
Do you have a sprinkler system? I need to build one, thinking ESP32, solenoid and relay switch board... If you've built one in the past, I'd love to check it out! :)
You reading comments on an older video is probably a long shot, but I was wondering if you are still happy with your doorbell? My implementation is different than yours -- using my "doorbell" as an alert button that sends a voice notification to the networked speakers throughout the house (think "Help! I've fallen and I can't get up.") -- but the hardware components are exactly the same as yours. Anyway I get one or two spurious notifications every day when the button was not pushed. The doorbell receiver is being occasionally triggered by the 433MHz motion detector on my front porch and I don't know what to do about it (other than remove the motion detector). Any ideas? You did a great video and I really like this project, but I can't really use it as an alert mechanism when it gives a couple of false alarms every day.
I did have an incident where a motion detector was triggering the doorbell, after I figured it out and re paired the doorbell and haven’t had any other issues
That seemed to fix it. Have gone 48 hours now without a false alert. Thank you! I didn't even realize the transmitter/receiver could be re-paired. Should have actually read the manual when I received the doorbell. :-) And yes, figuring it out was the hard part. I went down 2 other rabbit holes of investigation first before I figured out the RF motion detector was involved.
Hi. Thank you for all your shared ideas. Do you have an idea how to use HA to integrate the 2 way audio communication of the very wide used video wifi intercoms? I spent a lot of time without success. Thank you
@@TheHookUp sure. One is widely used in our country www.amazon.com/Dahua-DHI-VTO2111D-WP-Outdoor-Indication-Intercom/dp/B07KSJ19SY/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546792877&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dahua+door+intercom+video+wifi And the second: www.ebay.com/itm/Slinex-WiFi-Wireless-Video-DoorBell-Best-Design-Doorbell-Camera-/162891625397?nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2349624.m43663.l44720#vi__app-cvip-panel
very helpful video. can you please suggest me if i want to live stream(instead of image we can able to see person and interact with him) on doorbell button press what changes i need to do and best SBC to deal with live stream. thanks in advance
Great video as always. I love that you have ALL the documentation / files on github. Makes it real easy. Whats the best way to get past the 'hacking' stage for learning Arduino? Over 3000 subscribers. Kool...............
Best way to get past that stage is to keep hacking other people's code, after a while you'll start to notice things in common between code, then you'll start to realize you don't need to copy other people's code because you already know how to do the thing you want to do. It was a really strange feeling the first time I sat down to code something, I loaded up someone else's code to start with, and then I read through it and deleted out section by section because it didn't to exactly what I wanted. After I finished I noticed that I had removed about 95% of the code. That was the point I realized I didn't need to modify someone else's code anymore. The funny thing is that everyone has their own coding style, little things like using #define or const int for pins, adding an extra return before {, or using timers or the millis() function. I can always tell if I've written a section of code because it just feels like mine.
my doorbell is "dead" after 3 or 4 days, just like the Windows Blind. i see it is still on the network but it just doesnt do anything. is there a code that i can add at the end of your ino file to force a restart after 24hrs? i found this piece of code online but it refuses to work and i have no idea what's the syntax to get it working: if (millis() => 86400000){ ESP.restart(); }
Hi Rob! Just made this project, was super fun (and taught me that "transistors" aren't some fancy magic things but pretty simple stuff) to do! Still have one question: how would you make the doorbell ring over MQTT? We want to use our current doorbell button so I'm wondering where you'd simulate the button press. Ideally I'd hook up the button to a shelly1 and have that send an MQTT message. Any ideas?
if your existing doorbell has an LED that turns on when the button is pushed, attach the MCU to that LED. pin D0 goes to 1 end of the LED+, pin ground goes to the other end of the LED-. now if that does not work in HA, swap the LED terminals. all you need is to add this code in your configuration.yaml: sensor: - platform: mqtt name: "Doorbell" state_topic: "doorbell" expire_after: 10
@@Ghust2 oh that part i dont know. for my house, i just need to know if someone rang the doorbell. once rang, HomeAssistant will flash the lights on the 2nd and 3rd floor because we cant hear the doorbell.
For a more fun way to do it without tearing the receiver to bits, watch Andreas Speiss video with the SDR and the weather station. You can pick up that 433mhz signal and send it through to MQTT! You can also do it with those sensors you bought too without the Sonoff bridge. But I did your way too on that same brand wireless driveway sensor before I discovered how easy it was to intercept all these 433mhz signals...
OK, I didn't think to automate the speaker too, I just put a switch because most all the time I left it off except to debug. But in the end, that's why I ended up getting rid of the receiver because it was easier to just do it all with existing software I had already written. I used the SDR dongle, intercepted the signal, and played the chime through Alexa via bluetooth. This way I can selectively turn it on and off, same way you did. I already had the SDR running for my weatherstation, so I need no additional hardware at all to do it either. You MAY be able to even intercept that signal with the Sonoff RF bridge, I haven't tried that. I'll bet it can work though. Interesting experiment to try. The SDR dongle is a real fun project to play with - you should try it. And with small modification to the code, you can about intercept anything.
Thanks for your videos, they really help a lot, i got a lot of esp sensors arround my house, it can sometimes jam the wifi, I was thinking maybe a video on using rf instead and connect them to the sonoff rf, maybe this is something you would consider ;o) keep up the great work and open a patron acount so we can contribute to your work.
DrZzs did a video this week on the Sonoff RF, but 433mhz devices have the limitation that they only send information, and cannot receive it. How many devices do you have on your wifi? If the ESPs are using MQTT they shouldn't really contribute much to network traffic. Most modern routers should support 50+ devices without any slowdowns at all.
I did play around with MySensors a bit. I honestly wasn't a huge fan. You still end up writing arduino code and dealing with all of the issues the arduino IDE sometimes has (com port errors, library errors, local file errors), but you don't learn much about arduino coding and you don't have as much control over the program. A project like ESPHomeYAML is great because it doesn't try to be arduino, it's just a drop in replacement for it. In my opinion, if you're going to mess around learning MySensors you should just take the few extra hours in arduino to learn the rest of the coding portion.
Really great tutorial. Thanks for sharing. Mine is working well on my LAN but I notice the NodeMCU is also presenting as an insecure access point named AI-Thinker-*** with DHCP and Bonjour services on the default IP (4.1). Is there a switch in the code to disable this once it acquires an IP from an external access point? Thanks again.
Add: WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA); in the wifi configure section. I left it out by accident. I actually have a function in my personal code that allows me to change the ssid by connecting directly to it, but I left it out of this sketch because I didn't want to add extra libraries.
super interesting, i have a bunch of nodeMCU chips at home that I attempted to use with BruhAutomation's mutlisensor but they freeze up for some reason and are unreliable. This would be easy enough to connect some reed switches and create simple door sensors (given that I can find someway to power them) Thanks!
fantastic videos they are a great asset. Any chance you have a Koi pond? would be great if you could make a controller for one that would report back to Hassio
I want to measure temp and water level in 2 or 3 40 gallon barrels and be able to turn on my uv and shut it off. If water stops coming in from the main line I need to shut off the UV so it does not over heat if this can be done with a board that has a wireless chip on it would be great but to be honest I can not program a Dorito I know on other forums users have asked for this kind of thing regular controllers for a pond is like buying one for a reef tank for my 180 reef I use this one www.robo-tank.ca/ be cause I know the guy who made it
you are doing a lot of fancy stuff with this. what if i just want to know if the doorbell was pushed? i only need 1 wire from LED to nodeMCU D0 pin, correct?
Since this is run off a battery, how does that look for a busy area like the front door and the reed switch? I don’t see a deep sleep implemented so what is battery life like?
@@TheHookUp Thanks. Do you still recommend this doorbell? I think you metioned something about it on your last livestream but can't remember exactly what was it.
Would you be able to do a vid on MQTT setup in HA? I looked on RUclips but they seem outdated.. If I’m using ssl with duck dns for HA do I have to use ssl on MQTT? Not sure how to set it up.. thanks! Awesome tutorials!
Ran into a small problem with this. When I connect the base of the transistor to the nodemcu, the chime stops sounding. I can turn the chime on and off through HA and can see through serial monitor that the silent/audio messages are coming through but it makes no difference to the audio output (or lack of) of the chime. Either the nodemcu is not sending the high/low signal or there’s something wrong with my circuit. I’ve replaced the transistor, same problem and both old and new transistors test ok on my multimeter. Any ideas what to try next?
Thanks for the reply. No, only the emitter and collector are soldered to the board. The base is connected only to d4. OK, after a little more testing... With the board switch set to chime and led: If I power up the nodemcu with d4 attached, i can get no sound out of the chime, no matter what state the switch in HA is set to. If I disconnect d4 from the doorbell board the chime remains silent. If I power up the nodemcu with d4 disconnected, the chime sounds. If i then connect d4 the chime still sounds no matter what state the switch in HA is set to. With the board switch set to led only: If I power up the nodemcu with d4 attached, i can get no sound out of the chime, no matter what state the switch in HA is set to. If I disconnect d4 from the doorbell board the chime remains silent. If I power up the nodemcu with d4 disconnected, the chime is silent. If i then connect d4 the chime works as it should and is silent if the switch is off in HA, when I flip the switch in HA the chime sounds. So, it looks like I can get it to work as it should but only by connecting d4 AFTER the unit is powered up and only if the board switch is set to LED only. Is there a pinout for the 3 position switch anywhere? Steve
Fixed. I altered the code to use d2 instead of d4 as the silent pin. Reflashed the nodemcu and it’s all now working properly. I found a site where they’d tested all of the gpio pins on a nodemcu during boot and there was only d2 and d3 that didn’t go high or fluctuate during boot so I thought I’d swap to one of those two. I can only think that this fluctuation was screwing up the transistor somehow. Now to get iOS notifications working...
Hey Rob (Sorry if I spelled your name wrong) , I want to make a DIY project I'm not experienced with Arduino and I need some guidelines , you seem like someone who knows how to tinker with electronics It would be awesome if you can help me out Is there a way I could reach you in a private chat ?
hello! nice and helpful videos. Would you consider a video about programming a Sonoff Basic to be controllable via MQTT for Home Assistant. All this to be done with esphomeyaml? While I discivered esphomelibe recently and I think it has a great potential to make the programming process easy for many people without ESP programming experience - I also think it's not enaough documented. I'm a beginner in it and I'm not able to prepare a config file in esphomeyaml that would replicate Sonoff's default software - report relay state changes to HA and control the relay also locally via the in-built switch. Sonoff devices are very popular in some regions of the world, so there's already a demand for the know-how abput reprogramming them for specific needs or adapting their software to use them with some home automation systems like Home Assistant.
@@TheHookUp nowdays is a big monster. The entry bar is a lot lower at diy electronics. Thank you for tqking the time to teach such useful things. Love from Argentina
Excellent videos. I'm trying to do this build but having some issues: Can you please explain the MQTT server port and MQTT server Address referenced in the arduino code?
If you don't have an MQTT server for your home automation platform (Most people who run home assistant also run an MQTT server on the same RaspberryPi), you can use an online MQTT broker like cloudMQTT or io.adafruit.com.
I was actually referring to the settings needed in your arduino codoe for both the Server and port when using HA. I also am having troubles getting your arduino code to compile.. I'm sure that this is a problem on my side of things - perhaps not understanding how to include some of the includes. I have successfully connected to the 8266 with the blink demo. Lastly- a thought to improve your project- why not include a temp sensor?? This will be my variant if I can get it to work ;) Thanks again- your channel is great!!
Adding a temp sensor is super easy, only requires about 10 lines of code. The MQTT server port and address will vary based on your personal setup. If you're running HA you probably use 1883 for port and the server address is the IP of the raspberry pi that runs your HA.
Thx.. makes sense and I'm down that path (looking @ the Brauh multisensor) Still having issues with compiling the Arduino side though. should I d/l the github links in your code & include them Sketch>include library>add .zip library. I am missing something here.. very sorry.
I bet I could use your WiFi battery powered reed switch design to send a message to HA, which then could send an RF message via Sonoff RF Bridge to the cheap “smart” doorbell you also created. I bought the initial parts for the doorbell, have to figure out exactly how I want to do the wireless reed switches. I love the idea of recessed magnetic ones that I could hide in a door, door trim, or window trim.
So i flashed my NodeMCU with tasmota and did the rest of the build as instructed. I get the notifications just fine, but can't get the sound to work. I tried changing the transistor around every way I could think and nothing. I have pin D4 as a relay that I tried switching on and off and get nothing. When I remove D4 from the transistor base, the sound plays, but D4 connected, silence.
@@TheHookUp Yep. Didn't notice until my 3rd time watching the video that I had to add the transistor. I gave up and am just using the switch on the back to manually turn the sound on/off. I disconnected the D4 pin and am just using the MQTT notifications.
@@JimmieMcCullough -- Pin D4 is a "special boot" pin that must be HIGH on boot for the ESP8266 chip to boot your code properly. If this pin is LOW on boot, your code will not execute. The same can be said of PIN D8 - Must be kept LOW during boot if it is used for a sensor. As other has mentioned above, swap D4 for PIN D2 - change the reference in the sketch, and it will work fine. --- This is a very common mistake I also learned the hard way on the Wemos D1 Mini board - very similar.
Great video. I'm holding out on learning mqtt but looks like I'll eventually get there. Thinking I'll just use the konnected code to get started. Love the toggle for sound on or off!
I am ready to do this project. Ordered Wireless Doorbell and has a Node MCU (not sure what is the difference but what I have is a "Wireless module NodeMcu Lua WIFI Internet of Things development board based ESP8266 CP2102 with pcb Antenna and usb port" and hope it would work. This is the same NodeMCU I have used to create 5x of Ben's multi-sensor nodes From video I understand that I could skip the door sensor (I already have broad link door sensor on my front door) My questions a) can I skip 2n2222 NPN Transistor as I am keen on Audio Doorbell/Silent Doorbell function and would like to minimise soldering. c) if I skip the transistor and door reader do I need to change the Arduino code or can I just upload the full code from your project. I know what I need to add to configuration.YAML in HA. My experience in creating Ben's Sensor nodes is that I could omit adding physical sensor and still could upload the full Arduino code to NodeMCU and only omit relevant code in HA. So in short I am only going to use the doorbell to send a mqtt message when doorbell is pressed. I have tested picture capture and notifying with Blue-iris and pushbullet. Just need to use your project as a trigger. Thanks in advance.
The NPN transistor is what controls the silent/audible doorbell, so if you skip it that part won't work. The code doesn't need to be modified at all, you can leave out as many of the hardware parts as you want and the code will still function.
@@TheHookUp as a follow up to this question, if I didn't want a Reed switch or the option to turn sound off (literally just want a notification with a camera snap from HA to my android phone when someone presses the bell), can I omit the transistor, and wires from D3 and D4 on nodeMCU?
Awesome! I followed your instruction but i get a weird thing. It connects to mqtt just fine, but almost immediately disconnect and reconnects agains. And this sequence loops. Is there something i'm missing here?
@@TheHookUp Seems not. I have a "checkln/DoorbellMCU" an "doorbell" and "doorbell/commands". The doorbell chime switch in hassio does not stay in the "on" position when pressed. It publishes the topic Audio Doorbell. The "checkln/DoorbellMCU" publishes the "Reconnected" message every 10 or so seconds..
Great video! I have a different wireless door-bell, and I can't for the life of me get PIN D0 to read the LED correctly. What baffles me is, that when I measure with a multimeter between LED + and - I always get ~ 1 V. I had it working almost correctly, but only when I silence the speaker with the D4 -> transistor (which works flawlessly). I can't seem to find anywhere on the PCB, where I have ~ 0V when the bell isn't ringing and more when it is. Any tips?
I didn't manage to find a spot anywhere near the LED, but somewhere behind the IC, there was a diode (not an LED, an actual zener-diode), and probing around, this proved to be a nice spot to tap in. So, I got it working in the end! Oh, and great video BTW, the turn off/on of the speaker is brilliant :)
Why not use MQTTgateway, RFlink or an RTL-SDR to pick up and decode the RF signal? That's how I interface HASS.IO with my wireless doorbell and wireless smoke alarms, a simple RTL-SDR. Works like a charm and RTL-SDR is dirt cheap. Paid 6€ for mine, shipping included.
I have tried this, minus the Reed switch and option selector, but added a temperature sensor. All appeared good, but couple of hours later the receiver refuses to chime when the bell is pressed. If I unplug the 5v and plug back in again it will work correctly for some time before dying again. The nodemcu appears unaffected. 😩
@@TheHookUp yeah.. I originally had a 3.3 connected as described in the video and daisy chained from that on the receiver to my dht22. Later a hooked another 3.3 to the same bridge, thinking it wasn't getting enough mA. All same behaviour
I've got it plugged in, battery life would be bad with this configuration (the ESP is always on). You could make a battery version with an ESP-01 if you wired the LED up to the reset pin and just had it deepSleep until the chime.
So I have attempted this project with an Adafruit Huzzah ESP8266 and mostly everything works but the Audio - Silent / Sound. I am unable to mute the sound at all. So, I have a question that didn't seem to be covered in the video. Does the original board's sound switch need to be removed? It didn't look like you removed it from the split second view of the finished product that the video showed. If it didn't need to be removed (which I didn't and managed to solder the NPN resistor fine) I just may have my Emitter / Collector incorrect.
Nevermind, I see that you never connected the base to the back of the board. I just ended up de-soldering the base from the board and re-soldering just the wire to the base.
Hi, I'm having the same issue. Can you explain again how this is configured and what happens to the legacy switch again please? Many thanks for the vids.
Thanks for a great guide. I've now successfully achieved a similar result with my 2 mains doorbell receivers. However, I've one concern. I'm now left with the 2 Wemos D1 minis I used still broadcasting their SSIDs as unsecured networks. I'm concerned these may be a security risk, as they obviously contain the WiFi password for my router. Could someone access this info remotely somehow?
The short answer to your question is "No, it's not possible". The better answer is add this line to the arduino code in the void setup section: WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA); It will turn off the broadcast SSID. I went ahead and updated the code on github as well.
Thanks. Really appreciated. I've also now changed the code, so I can flash my 2 doorbell receivers over Wi-Fi. I just added the following code into the void setup. // No authentication by default // ArduinoOTA.setPassword("admin"); // Password can be set with it's md5 value as well // MD5(admin) = 21232f297a57a5a743894a0e4a801fc3 // ArduinoOTA.setPasswordHash("21232f297a57a5a743894a0e4a801fc3"); ArduinoOTA.onStart([]() { String type; if (ArduinoOTA.getCommand() == U_FLASH) { type = "sketch"; } else { // U_FS type = "filesystem"; } // NOTE: if updating FS this would be the place to unmount FS using FS.end() Serial.println("Start updating " + type); }); ArduinoOTA.onEnd([]() { Serial.println(" End"); }); ArduinoOTA.onProgress([](unsigned int progress, unsigned int total) { Serial.printf("Progress: %u%% ", (progress / (total / 100))); }); ArduinoOTA.onError([](ota_error_t error) { Serial.printf("Error[%u]: ", error); if (error == OTA_AUTH_ERROR) { Serial.println("Auth Failed"); } else if (error == OTA_BEGIN_ERROR) { Serial.println("Begin Failed"); } else if (error == OTA_CONNECT_ERROR) { Serial.println("Connect Failed"); } else if (error == OTA_RECEIVE_ERROR) { Serial.println("Receive Failed"); } else if (error == OTA_END_ERROR) { Serial.println("End Failed"); } }); ArduinoOTA.setHostname("doorbellR1"); ArduinoOTA.begin(); Serial.println("Ready"); Serial.print("IP address: "); Serial.println(WiFi.localIP());
Zeph - The transistor is an "electronic" switch, just like the "mechanical" switch on the original hardware design. Interrupting the ground connection to the speak (" aka cutting the wire ") is not a SHORT - it is the OPPOSITE - OPEN circuit (infinite resistance). The transistor either completes the circuit (NO RESISTANCE/MINIMAL) or OPENS the circuit (INFINITE resistance) and no electrical connection. I hope this helps.
If using arduino to upload your code to the ESP, what board do you select? I purchased a similar ESP to yours but, mine has the CH340G serial adapter. I'm using Board: Generic ESP8266, flash size 4M 3 Spiifs, CPU 80, UL Speed reduced to 9600. I followed your troubleshooting ESP vids but, no luck. Keep getting the following errors: warning: espcomm_sync failed error: espcomm_open failed error: espcomm_upload_mem failed error: espcomm_upload_mem failed
I am ready to do my doorbell so was watching the video again. I noted that you were talking about port forwarding for ha, node red, esphome etc etc. I had issues with Duckdns and port forwarding and then having SSL. I then installed NGINX reverse proxy (I did it on a windows 10 machine I have where I run Blueiris software for all my cameras 24x7). I created multiple domains with Duckdns and opened only port 443. when I come on say myha.duckdns.org I get to HA login page, mynr.duckdns.org I get to nodered, mybi.duckdns.org I am taken to Blue Iris log on page etc. It is super fast. I have created openSSL certificates and self signed them for each my my domains and added to NGINX. I also added more security in NGINX (NGINX is as powerful as Apache). There is a NGINX add on for Hass.io but I thought of having NGINX proxy in a different machine. May be something for you / Drzzz to implement and do a video (I am not good with video) as opening multiple ports on router and directly directing to various boxes is not a good thing. Just a suggestion
The better way to do it is to set up local dns on your router or even with your hosts file on your PC... I wouldn't recommend forwarding a bunch of ports as it leaves you more vulnerable to hacking.
i wired my MCU as such because i only care about "Ding" according to your advice: i.imgur.com/O2kgN49.jpg then in my config.yaml file, i only added this: sensor: - platform: mqtt name: "Doorbell" state_topic: "doorbell" expire_after: 10 does not matter which LED i connect to D0, i still see "unknown," not "ding" as in your video. am i missing something in my yaml?
Hey Rob, I am trying to follow this video, but I have the UK plug version, and can't work out where to connect the 2N2222? Here is a link to an image of my board.. simpletosmart.com/images/Doorbell_QH-823AK_Front.jpg simpletosmart.com/images/Doorbell_QH-823AK_Back.jpg Thanks-in advance! Great video again!
Sorry to say your videos are too advanced because your explanations just go over my head. I am saying this even where I am considered to be quite tech savvy and you are really pitching things for people that are programmers with good electronics background. This is where we miss Ben a lot. He explain things in a way that most people could follow. Please slow down and explain - I will elaborate it with my question below I have HA and Blue Iris set up. Blue Iris sever has 9 cameras and integrated to HA too. I also have Node Red and SSL with NGINX -reverse proxy Now I do not want door sensors because I already having Broadlink S2 kit working with HA. So what I need is a method to give a state change to HA when door bell is pushed and then capture picture clip from my Blue Iris server and send as a notification. Blue Iris could do notifications too so I may want BI or HA to do this on door bell press. I was thinking of Amazon dash too but being IFTT dependent it would take more time. I also was thinking of Boradlink S2 door sensor in a housing to act as a door bell with two springs to detach and then when button press to create closed signal in HA to trigger rest. But your method is more - let me say professional. Now if I am to use your doorbell only without door sensor do I need to add the resister? Well I do not understand from your explanation. Also which part of the code in Arduino should I eliminate as I do not want door sensor? Also which part link to capturing picture from the camera and using messaging to send the MMS? Ben in his videos explain each part objective and explain things in very simple terms Well I am not having a go at you. I have been very keen to learn node red from your series but gave up altogether as you are not pitching in a level that someone new could understand concepts. I suggested a dummies series for node red for these is very little videos on node red. Now I found this person's video series (OpenHome Automation) ruclips.net/channel/UCB1Qn68LM2cNNNOS2k_j65w and he explain things like Ben so that more people could understand and be motivated to try. Well after following him I may be able to come and figure our your node red videos as without that I am as lost as any. As I said I am considered by many as very tech savvy but not a programmer nor electronics engineer I am not starting an argument here. Just some comments so that you could increase your user base and more people can be benefited from your good work (and no one would argue on that ) Thanks
I hear ya. I agree that my videos do require a decent amount of background knowledge. One thing that I have tried to keep constant on my channel is keeping my videos well scripted and produced. I want to keep them relatively short, so I do cut out things that I think most people already know. I also try not to repeat the same thing in multiple videos, so I often link to others (like my node red video). I'm sorry to hear that it's not easy for you to follow. Here's the link you are looking for to include a picture in your SMS: YOURHASSIOADDRESS:8123/api/camera_proxy/camera.front_door?api_password=YOURPASSWORD It was in the github link in the description.
I completely agree, as to where I am regarding all this home automation stuff. I've watched A LOT of videos, which start out basic and step by step, but QUICKLY start talking about code and making references to hardware stuff. Yikes. I then an lost and get discouraged. I need Step by step from the beginning of things. WHERE CAN I GO TO LEARN THAT??? I watched Dr Zzzs recent video talking about home automation introduction and the 3 levels of hub integration. Loved that video... Thing is, the 3rd option sounded most appealing to me, but Now What? Where can I go to start learning The Very Basics in order to start putting a system together?
Awesome video, I have a slightly different doorbell kit from 1byone so the board is a bit different. Where do you find info on the board and find all the relevant connections? Is there a site somewhere that has all this? For context this is the doorbell I have : www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MDVDE0T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@TheHookUp how would I find the emitter/collector on my board with a multimeter? Not sure when and how much volt I should expect on those points. My door bell seems to feed on about 4V (3xAA).
thanks, very useful :) 1 suggestion: take a look at the EspEasy firmware for these type of setups... for example you could have done everything without even writing a single line of code, not in arduino nor in yaml style... you just need to flash the firmware, connect to the web interface, then use it to define your sensors and actuators, connect to mqtt, and it's done... :) look the actual list of official supported devices (others are in the forum in test version): www.letscontrolit.com/wiki/index.php/Devices
esphomeyaml looked interesting so I gave it a try. All went well until the upload. After a lot of activity I got the following: INFO [esphomeyaml.espota] Starting on 0.0.0.0:6053 INFO [esphomeyaml.espota] Upload size: 345696 INFO [esphomeyaml.espota] Sending invitation to doorbell.local ERROR [esphomeyaml.espota] Failed ERROR [esphomeyaml.espota] Host doorbell.local Not Found what did I do wrong
OOPs Sorry, I did not notice that the default was OTA. I changed that and all is OK. Based on my experience with your work, I knew that it must be my mistake. Thanks for all you do. BTW, you made a quick comment about using the MQTT add on instead of a separate MQTT broker so I changed. Much better... Thanks again.
in the Doorbell_CONFIGURE.ino file each of the libraries listed at the top has a download link next to them. You'll need to add those 3 function libraries (simple timer, pubsub, and arduino OTA)
Very nice project and thanks for sharing. I bought this doorbell of Amazon, but I see the board has a slight different design to yours, the serial number is also different - mine is "QH-823A-19". The ground and VCC wires enter on the right side as opposed to the left side. What is strange is I measure 3V+ between the board ground wire and the LED positive wire, when the LED is not triggered. If I measure between the LED positive and negative it looks like expected, 0V when not triggered As I see it, this won't work, since the wire from the LED + will be a high signal all the time Am I missing something? Here is my PCB: imgur.com/a/VTwrX8k
For anyone else facing this issue: The LED is connected between V+ and the GPIO of the microcontroller on the PCB. The negative LED wire is not connected to ground, so the method suggested in this video won't work for this revision of the PCB. Whar does work, is to use an optocoupler, like the PC817C, with a resistor (I used 56E) on the input, connecting the led positive and negative, then I run the output to a RC filter and a 74HC14 IC, then on to a power latch circuit using a Si4599 (P / N channel mosfet) that acts as a power latch circuit. The ESP8266 is powered down, it is powered on when the LED flashes, and sends the MQTT message, then shuts itself down using the power latch. I don't power the doorbell from the ESP8266, I power the doorbell from a single LifePo4 3.2V cell, as well as the ESP8266 when it is powered on.
As something of a script kiddie myself (I run the white hat hacking club at the school where I teach), the URL is embedded in the notification which is sent via https, it is not sent in in plaintext and cannot easily be read. I'd love to be able to use the api token for this, but unfortunately the token shifts every image, so you'd need to be able to have it be dynamic.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Rob, you have no idea how thankful I am for your videos. I really want to thank you for the hard work that you put on making them. This one inspired me to implement something very similar, although since my existing doorbell uses RF 433Mhz and I already have a Sonoff RF bridge, it was very easy to just use the RF signal instead of having to add a nodemcu. Thank again for all you do.
This is great - I did almost exactly the same thing about a year ago - same doorbell, wired it up to a Wemos D1 mini, used the led flash to trigger an input on the D1 which then sent an MQTT message to Node Red. Powered the whole thing off an old 5v phone charger. Nice work!
Nice! someone on reddit said they had used the same one with a node-mcu too... great minds think alike.
Great video!! - just built a version of this but used IFTTT as I haven’t been brave enough to use HA yet! Added a hacked echo button with relay so Alexa announces across the house that someone is at the door when doorbell is pressed - thanks again for great vid👍
THANKS DUDE! i modified your script by just a little bit and now i made my own "smart mqqt remote" to power on or off devices in node-red!!!
The doorbell isn't available anymore, do you have an updated recommendation for a doorbell?
Dunno if anyone gives a damn but if you're stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all of the new series on Instaflixxer. I've been binge watching with my gf for the last few months =)
You can use any 2xAA powered doorbell receiver as long it has a flashing light
In ESPHome you just need to add a filter section to stop the sensor triggering with every flash.
I used 5 seconds, but you can adjust accordingly.
binary_sensor:
- platform: gpio
name: "Doorbell"
pin:
number: D0
inverted: False
mode: INPUT_PULLDOWN_16
filters:
- delayed_off: 5s
THANKS SO MUCH!!!! I got this working with the newer non-battery powered one. You were so right with working through the code and getting it just right!
Pingwuan how did you wire it with the non battery one?
@@GG-kq6ok imgur.com/L56Zg2P That is a link to a picture of the board. I labeled what Ground, 5v, and the LED pin you need to hook up to D0. You will want to remove the mains from it completely and hook it up to a 5v charger. The transformer in this thing doesn't have enough amperage for the nodemcu and the door bell chime unfortunately. :( I hope this helps!!
Will give it it try, first try to find the doorbell in the netherlands.. thanks a lot!!
@@pingwuan_works hi there can you tell us which bell did you purchase? Maybe you can share some guide?
@@krdesigns Sorry for the late reply here is the link to the doorbell I used. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017SJKYQ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 As for a guide I haven't made one but if you feel like you could use one I could look into making one.
2:30 isn't that a board view not a schematic?
Thank you for this very helpful guide. I have recently brought the new version of the 1byone. Indeed the methodology still works, but 1) for the LED, need to connect to the ground not the positive, 2) for the 2N2222, need to connect after the 1byone is powered on (otherwise the sound is not functioning at all).
Could also use a rf receiver and just use that to send receive the doorbell signal
Yep, if all you wanted to do was monitor the doorbell an RF receiver would do the trick.
How do you do this if I may ask. I was thinking same. I need to Doorbell and would like to use Broadlink 1SC hub or if possible Broadlink Pro+. I do not think I could add 3rd partly BF sender with 1SC kit. Any hints would be useful
I ended up having some issues with the Smart Doorbell Arduino sketch. I was getting ghost rings after about a week of it working flawlessly and once they started they would trigger every 5 to 15 minutes, over and over again. Could have been the Adafruit Huzzah Feather board I am using vs. the NodeMCU board, but I couldn't figure out the issue. I even ended up completely rewriting the Arduino code removing all the Serial.print code and debounced the LED to help look for noise. I also looked over the HIGH / LOW NodeMCU boot-up diagrams you provided, to which everything looked good. But again worked great for about a week but ended up going nuts again after a quick power surge. For anyone wondering ... yes, it's plugged into a surge protector.
I finally ended up installing Tasmota on the Huzzah Feather and setting the Audio to Relay1, LED Trigger to Switch2 and the Reed Switch to Switch3. I updated my Node-Red MQTT topics and now everything has been running for about two weeks with no issues.
EDIT - Update 1 (3 Days Later): Over the weekend another power surge with a heavy rainstorm and ghost ringing started all over again. So let me retract everything above!
This time with the Tasmota console I was able to see the problem was the push button ringer. Tasmota showed that it looked like the button had been pressed. At which point I went outside grabbed the button, opened it up, removed the battery and let it sit. Ghost ringing stopped and I let it sit for a couple hours just to make sure. Guessing some humidity was getting into the push button and also guessing there were some cold solder joints. So, I re-soldered everything and covered the electronics with a thin layer of Polymorph minus the button and LED. I also, added an 18650 with a 03962A-Micro USB 5V 1A Lithium Battery Charger with Protection to the indoor unit. Hoping this does the trick and if not I will add another update here to where I change the board or bought another push button.
Just wanted to throw this out there if anyone else was having similar issues. Still a great project, so thanks for creating and putting it up on RUclips!
Hi, I'm trying, in vain, to get this working with Tasmota. I have everything up and running as per your settings :) But the one thing I can't figure out is the LED flashing multiple times and causing ON/OFF messages/notifications. I'm no coder etc, I can see from TheHookUps code that he has implemented some code so that you only get one notification, instead of many. I was wondering how you had done that with Tasmota?
I had the same issue with ghost "rings". I think the fix is to change the channel of the door bell. Instructions say to remove battery for 1 minute, then press channel button. So far so good for me!
been waiting for the reed switch code...now need to figure out how to add it to the ben's multinode sensor. Also thank you for the bonus tutorial about the hassio addon, that is awesome.
I thought about including all those sensors in this project as well, there's plenty of room inside the doorbell case to fit them, and plenty of open pins on the nodemcu.
Hi Rob. Firstly, thanks for the great videos. I'm new to Home Assistant and Node Red but slowly putting things together with your help, and DrZZS.
Have you already covered any details about the camera setup you have to get those images into Home Assistant? If not, any chance of a video with some pointers on how to get started? I don;t have any IP cameras in place yet but if there are any makes and models that work best with Home Assistant I'd be interested in your thoughts. Thanks
Hi thanks for all the great videos been watching them to help the start of my home automation journey. Along with setting up HA, I am creating a version of the door bell project. This leads me to some questions ? So in your door dell sketch you have a topic of ‘checkin’
Is this just your own topic or a common topic ? Also do you setup individual username/passwords for all of your devices and do you do it in Mosquito or Home assistant. Thanks Rob look forward to the next project. Cheers Tim
It would be awesome to post an updated video with a D1 Mini 32 and video camera integration for those of us who don't already have a camera and want something a little more like a Ring doorbell...
I would like to propose a challenge for you. I think your video to integrate a doorbell is fantastic. My challenge is to add face recognition to your doorbell project. There are several codes available for face recognition and after that, use Alexa to announce who is outside. I think you are the best person to do that. I will be happy to see your solution.
It's been almost 5 years. Surely this ca be improved.
Hey Rob, I know this is an old video, but I have the plug-in version (UK) of this doorbell, could I just connect everything apart from the 3v3/Ground of the NodeMCU to the 1 by One board and then plug in the NodeMCU next to the plugged in doorbell? Cheers.
Thanks for this. Ordered the doorbell. Still a bit of a noob (I use ESPHOME and Hassio automations) but on face value it appears ESPHOME has a bunch of binary sensor timers I can play with for the chime detection. I'll see how I go.
I got this working nicely with just esphome. I dare say the option wasn't available at the time. I just added the following to the binary sensor:
filters:
- delayed_off: 6000ms
Thank you for a great video. The way you do your videos is very easy to follow. Please could you do some videos on setting and using home assistant.
Andy
I'm trying not to remake videos that I think are already made well somewhere else on youtube. Is there a specific part of home assistant setup that you aren't able to find on youtube?
Just a heads up that my board was broadcasting an SSID of esp8266_last 6 digits of mac - consuming channel frequency otherwise used for day to day wifi so I prefer to run the module without that - I modified the source code at line 37 just before the wifi is started to state: WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA); to set it to not act as a AP as well, works and no longer any odd wifi SSID's!
You are really doing great stuff with this videos. Keep them coming please! So inspiring for home automation :)
Hi, I think your wotk is great!! I've implemented the doorbell and the pc remote switch and they work perfect!! I wonder if maybe you could improve the code so the device hostname can be configured and we could find it easily it in the network, and maybe it could have a little web server to show its name and ip address.
Tkanks!!
Awesome!
So could I just use the doorbell that is hardwired into my front door to trigger something in home assistant to activate the camera, and send a notification to my phone?
Can we set up the door open/close only through the hassio add on method? If so does it have a battery config so that it programs deep sleep? If not it may be a good thing to show if you do an “customer feedback review video again” :)
ESPHomeYAML does have a deepsleep function, but I haven't checked it out yet: esphomelib.com/esphomeyaml/components/deep_sleep.html
I believe you can use filters in ESPhomeYAML code also. So you could filter multiple button presses there also?
I tried that, you can't filter a binary_sensor, only a sensor, and setting up a custom sensor was way more detail than I was looking to include in the video (it's actually easier to just use arduino if you're going to use custom sensors).
In 1.7.0, esphomeyaml will have binary sensor filters support :) I'm currently writing all the docs for that release and hoping I can push the release today 🎉
Edit: + also RF receiver/transmitter support :)
So I was just a bit early ;)
Awesome!
Hi i have a different doorbel i was wondering is the 2n2222 hooked up on the switch where you select between soun/led.
I just made this project myself. The 2N2222 is hooked up on the switch, and actually bridges between the LED and sound paths. When the transistor is up it lets the current pass, else it's silent.
I know it's a year old, but maybe you're still wondering? ;)
@@Ghust2 Hey - can you help, where on my board would I put the 2N2222, please?
simpletosmart.com/images/Doorbell_QH-823AK_Front.jpg
simpletosmart.com/images/Doorbell_QH-823AK_back.jpg
Cheers
Hello.
Sir, the thing you've done is great, but you do not mind, I did not get in too well. Have you installed Hassio on a virtual machine or linux? if so, does it behave like a server and keep it running always to communicate with the MQTT and ESP8266 application? I'm a beginner and I'm very much asking you to help me install Hassio. Or at least guide me to a tutorial for beginners.
Thank you very much.
Hi Rob
I had this working for many months. I stooped updating Hass.io from firmware 0.74 for many months because I was busy moving places and I did not want to deal with break in changes changes etc and then updated to 0.84 and now running latest hass.io.
My doorbell since I updated hass.io broke and I spend lot of time to analyse and fix it but no luck. I used MQTTlense and I can see that MQTT message "Ding" get transmitted when I press the doorbell. Also the the sensor
sensor:
- platform: mqtt
name: "Doorbell"
state_topic: "doorbell"
expire_after: 10
seems to be working because I can see in the logbook the state change entry at the time of pressing the door bell - for instance "7.15PM: Doorbell changed to unknown"
However for whatever automation below does not trigger
- alias: 'Doorbell_Notify'
trigger:
platform: mqtt
topic: doorbell
payload: 'Ding'
action:
- service: camera.snapshot
data:
entity_id: camera.dafang_extrance
filename: '/config/temp/ENTRANCE.jpg'
- service: notify.mypushbullet
data:
title: Doorbell
message: 'Check who has come'
data:
file: /config/temp/ENTRANCE.jpg
When if I change the trigger to fixed time or to my broadlink door sensor the automation trigger but for some reason it does not trigger for the following MQTT as per your original instrction
trigger:
platform: mqtt
topic: doorbell
payload: 'Ding'
I could not find any breaking changes relating to it to get working with latest version of HAss.io. So my question is for you is it still working. I did not do any changes to the NodeMCU and remain same before. Many thanks
Mine is working, but I moved my automation to node-red long ago.
@@TheHookUp Thanks Rob. I am not very good with Node red so I took a shortcut.
I converted action part of my automation as a script and got rid of automation. Used input MQTT node to trigger service (script). It works now.
So something has changed in HA to stop triggering automation based on MQTT payload
I better spend more time on node red because HA is breaking things
Thanks
Sanjeewa
Awesome video. I love tinkering with electronics so I'm going to choose the Arduino route. My question is what if I'd like to go with an AC/DC powered chime instead of battery operation. How would this change my wiring design?
You'd need to find a 5 volt source on the inside of the board, if you aren't super comfortable looking at a circuit board and finding high and low voltage areas I wouldn't recommend it.
Do you have a sprinkler system? I need to build one, thinking ESP32, solenoid and relay switch board...
If you've built one in the past, I'd love to check it out! :)
You reading comments on an older video is probably a long shot, but I was wondering if you are still happy with your doorbell? My implementation is different than yours -- using my "doorbell" as an alert button that sends a voice notification to the networked speakers throughout the house (think "Help! I've fallen and I can't get up.") -- but the hardware components are exactly the same as yours.
Anyway I get one or two spurious notifications every day when the button was not pushed. The doorbell receiver is being occasionally triggered by the 433MHz motion detector on my front porch and I don't know what to do about it (other than remove the motion detector). Any ideas?
You did a great video and I really like this project, but I can't really use it as an alert mechanism when it gives a couple of false alarms every day.
I did have an incident where a motion detector was triggering the doorbell, after I figured it out and re paired the doorbell and haven’t had any other issues
That seemed to fix it. Have gone 48 hours now without a false alert. Thank you! I didn't even realize the transmitter/receiver could be re-paired. Should have actually read the manual when I received the doorbell. :-) And yes, figuring it out was the hard part. I went down 2 other rabbit holes of investigation first before I figured out the RF motion detector was involved.
Hi. Thank you for all your shared ideas. Do you have an idea how to use HA to integrate the 2 way audio communication of the very wide used video wifi intercoms? I spent a lot of time without success. Thank you
Do you have a link to an example product?
@@TheHookUp sure. One is widely used in our country www.amazon.com/Dahua-DHI-VTO2111D-WP-Outdoor-Indication-Intercom/dp/B07KSJ19SY/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546792877&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dahua+door+intercom+video+wifi
And the second:
www.ebay.com/itm/Slinex-WiFi-Wireless-Video-DoorBell-Best-Design-Doorbell-Camera-/162891625397?nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2349624.m43663.l44720#vi__app-cvip-panel
@@TheHookUp Can you please give some time to this subject? Thank you
very helpful video. can you please suggest me if i want to live stream(instead of image we can able to see person and interact with him) on doorbell button press what changes i need to do and best SBC to deal with live stream. thanks in advance
To my knowledge you can't have a live stream in an actionable notification. You could link to the rtsp stream through.
Great video as always. I love that you have ALL the documentation / files on github. Makes it real easy. Whats the best way to get past the 'hacking' stage for learning Arduino?
Over 3000 subscribers. Kool...............
Best way to get past that stage is to keep hacking other people's code, after a while you'll start to notice things in common between code, then you'll start to realize you don't need to copy other people's code because you already know how to do the thing you want to do.
It was a really strange feeling the first time I sat down to code something, I loaded up someone else's code to start with, and then I read through it and deleted out section by section because it didn't to exactly what I wanted. After I finished I noticed that I had removed about 95% of the code. That was the point I realized I didn't need to modify someone else's code anymore.
The funny thing is that everyone has their own coding style, little things like using #define or const int for pins, adding an extra return before {, or using timers or the millis() function. I can always tell if I've written a section of code because it just feels like mine.
Hi there! Awesome video, have you done a video on how to get your camera on nodered?
Do you already use home assistant?
Great job! Thanks for sharing!
my doorbell is "dead" after 3 or 4 days, just like the Windows Blind. i see it is still on the network but it just doesnt do anything.
is there a code that i can add at the end of your ino file to force a restart after 24hrs?
i found this piece of code online but it refuses to work and i have no idea what's the syntax to get it working:
if (millis() => 86400000){
ESP.restart();
}
Hi Rob! Just made this project, was super fun (and taught me that "transistors" aren't some fancy magic things but pretty simple stuff) to do!
Still have one question: how would you make the doorbell ring over MQTT?
We want to use our current doorbell button so I'm wondering where you'd simulate the button press.
Ideally I'd hook up the button to a shelly1 and have that send an MQTT message.
Any ideas?
if your existing doorbell has an LED that turns on when the button is pushed, attach the MCU to that LED. pin D0 goes to 1 end of the LED+, pin ground goes to the other end of the LED-. now if that does not work in HA, swap the LED terminals. all you need is to add this code in your configuration.yaml:
sensor:
- platform: mqtt
name: "Doorbell"
state_topic: "doorbell"
expire_after: 10
@@dablet but that would not allow me to send an mqtt message to ring the bell, would it?
@@Ghust2 oh that part i dont know. for my house, i just need to know if someone rang the doorbell. once rang, HomeAssistant will flash the lights on the 2nd and 3rd floor because we cant hear the doorbell.
For a more fun way to do it without tearing the receiver to bits, watch Andreas Speiss video with the SDR and the weather station. You can pick up that 433mhz signal and send it through to MQTT! You can also do it with those sensors you bought too without the Sonoff bridge. But I did your way too on that same brand wireless driveway sensor before I discovered how easy it was to intercept all these 433mhz signals...
I was also trying to be able to control whether the doorbell chime was audible.
OK, I didn't think to automate the speaker too, I just put a switch because most all the time I left it off except to debug. But in the end, that's why I ended up getting rid of the receiver because it was easier to just do it all with existing software I had already written. I used the SDR dongle, intercepted the signal, and played the chime through Alexa via bluetooth. This way I can selectively turn it on and off, same way you did. I already had the SDR running for my weatherstation, so I need no additional hardware at all to do it either.
You MAY be able to even intercept that signal with the Sonoff RF bridge, I haven't tried that. I'll bet it can work though. Interesting experiment to try.
The SDR dongle is a real fun project to play with - you should try it. And with small modification to the code, you can about intercept anything.
Thanks for your videos, they really help a lot, i got a lot of esp sensors arround my house, it can sometimes jam the wifi, I was thinking maybe a video on using rf instead and connect them to the sonoff rf, maybe this is something you would consider ;o) keep up the great work and open a patron acount so we can contribute to your work.
DrZzs did a video this week on the Sonoff RF, but 433mhz devices have the limitation that they only send information, and cannot receive it. How many devices do you have on your wifi? If the ESPs are using MQTT they shouldn't really contribute much to network traffic. Most modern routers should support 50+ devices without any slowdowns at all.
Have you checked MySensors project?
I did play around with MySensors a bit. I honestly wasn't a huge fan. You still end up writing arduino code and dealing with all of the issues the arduino IDE sometimes has (com port errors, library errors, local file errors), but you don't learn much about arduino coding and you don't have as much control over the program.
A project like ESPHomeYAML is great because it doesn't try to be arduino, it's just a drop in replacement for it. In my opinion, if you're going to mess around learning MySensors you should just take the few extra hours in arduino to learn the rest of the coding portion.
I got more than 50 ESP running in my house including wemos and sonoffs, they work fine but sometimes i feel my wifi is slow
all run tasmota and other mqtt software
Thanks for this. Any chance of we having non Node-Red code for capturing a photo from the camera and including it as a message.
It can be done with automations in HASS, you can use the same URL that I had in the video.
Great Video, very concise. Thanks
Really great tutorial. Thanks for sharing. Mine is working well on my LAN but I notice the NodeMCU is also presenting as an insecure access point named AI-Thinker-*** with DHCP and Bonjour services on the default IP (4.1). Is there a switch in the code to disable this once it acquires an IP from an external access point? Thanks again.
Add:
WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA);
in the wifi configure section. I left it out by accident. I actually have a function in my personal code that allows me to change the ssid by connecting directly to it, but I left it out of this sketch because I didn't want to add extra libraries.
Cool, thanks.
Cool, thanks.
super interesting, i have a bunch of nodeMCU chips at home that I attempted to use with BruhAutomation's mutlisensor but they freeze up for some reason and are unreliable. This would be easy enough to connect some reed switches and create simple door sensors (given that I can find someway to power them) Thanks!
fantastic videos they are a great asset. Any chance you have a Koi pond? would be great if you could make a controller for one that would report back to Hassio
I don't have a koi pond, salt water reef tanks, but no koi poind. What are you trying to measure on your controller?
I want to measure temp and water level in 2 or 3 40 gallon barrels and be able to turn on my uv and shut it off. If water stops coming in from the main line I need to shut off the UV so it does not over heat if this can be done with a board that has a wireless chip on it would be great but to be honest I can not program a Dorito I know on other forums users have asked for this kind of thing regular controllers for a pond is like buying one for a reef tank for my 180 reef I use this one www.robo-tank.ca/ be cause I know the guy who made it
you are doing a lot of fancy stuff with this. what if i just want to know if the doorbell was pushed? i only need 1 wire from LED to nodeMCU D0 pin, correct?
Yep
Sir, the messages or alerts arriving on the phone are also audible warning
Thank you.
@ 1:18 .... YES, yes we are worth it!
:-D Thank you!
Since this is run off a battery, how does that look for a busy area like the front door and the reed switch? I don’t see a deep sleep implemented so what is battery life like?
It's not running off a battery. The NodeMCU is running off a wall adapter, and then powering the doorbell via the 3v3 pin.
Nice video Rob!
Does this doorbell work on 433mhz?
It is an RF doorbell, but it doesn't show up on my RF bridge, so probably not 433mhz.
@@TheHookUp Thanks. Do you still recommend this doorbell? I think you metioned something about it on your last livestream but can't remember exactly what was it.
Would you be able to do a vid on MQTT setup in HA? I looked on RUclips but they seem outdated.. If I’m using ssl with duck dns for HA do I have to use ssl on MQTT? Not sure how to set it up.. thanks! Awesome tutorials!
Other than the Mosquitto addon? I don't use SSL for MQTT since it's only local and not exposed to the outside world.
Ran into a small problem with this. When I connect the base of the transistor to the nodemcu, the chime stops sounding. I can turn the chime on and off through HA and can see through serial monitor that the silent/audio messages are coming through but it makes no difference to the audio output (or lack of) of the chime. Either the nodemcu is not sending the high/low signal or there’s something wrong with my circuit. I’ve replaced the transistor, same problem and both old and new transistors test ok on my multimeter.
Any ideas what to try next?
Do you have the base connected to the board? It should not be soldered to the board.
Thanks for the reply. No, only the emitter and collector are soldered to the board. The base is connected only to d4.
OK, after a little more testing...
With the board switch set to chime and led:
If I power up the nodemcu with d4 attached, i can get no sound out of the chime, no matter what state the switch in HA is set to. If I disconnect d4 from the doorbell board the chime remains silent.
If I power up the nodemcu with d4 disconnected, the chime sounds. If i then connect d4 the chime still sounds no matter what state the switch in HA is set to.
With the board switch set to led only:
If I power up the nodemcu with d4 attached, i can get no sound out of the chime, no matter what state the switch in HA is set to. If I disconnect d4 from the doorbell board the chime remains silent.
If I power up the nodemcu with d4 disconnected, the chime is silent. If i then connect d4 the chime works as it should and is silent if the switch is off in HA, when I flip the switch in HA the chime sounds.
So, it looks like I can get it to work as it should but only by connecting d4 AFTER the unit is powered up and only if the board switch is set to LED only.
Is there a pinout for the 3 position switch anywhere?
Steve
Fixed. I altered the code to use d2 instead of d4 as the silent pin. Reflashed the nodemcu and it’s all now working properly. I found a site where they’d tested all of the gpio pins on a nodemcu during boot and there was only d2 and d3 that didn’t go high or fluctuate during boot so I thought I’d swap to one of those two. I can only think that this fluctuation was screwing up the transistor somehow.
Now to get iOS notifications working...
Thank you for this comment! I've been struggling to figure this out.
@@TheHookUp Thanks. I had it soldered. Works flawlessly now
Hey Rob (Sorry if I spelled your name wrong) , I want to make a DIY project
I'm not experienced with Arduino and I need some guidelines , you seem like someone who knows how to tinker with electronics
It would be awesome if you can help me out
Is there a way I could reach you in a private chat ?
hello! nice and helpful videos. Would you consider a video about programming a Sonoff Basic to be controllable via MQTT for Home Assistant. All this to be done with esphomeyaml? While I discivered esphomelibe recently and I think it has a great potential to make the programming process easy for many people without ESP programming experience - I also think it's not enaough documented. I'm a beginner in it and I'm not able to prepare a config file in esphomeyaml that would replicate Sonoff's default software - report relay state changes to HA and control the relay also locally via the in-built switch. Sonoff devices are very popular in some regions of the world, so there's already a demand for the know-how abput reprogramming them for specific needs or adapting their software to use them with some home automation systems like Home Assistant.
Check out DrZzs on RUclips. His videos are very easy to follow.
The pre esphome era. Oh boy
ESPHome was just a little baby when I made this video.
@@TheHookUp nowdays is a big monster. The entry bar is a lot lower at diy electronics. Thank you for tqking the time to teach such useful things. Love from Argentina
Dose nodered needed for this guide
does the sending notification on your phone works even when your not at home?
What app do you use?
Excellent videos. I'm trying to do this build but having some issues: Can you please explain the MQTT server port and MQTT server Address referenced in the arduino code?
If you don't have an MQTT server for your home automation platform (Most people who run home assistant also run an MQTT server on the same RaspberryPi), you can use an online MQTT broker like cloudMQTT or io.adafruit.com.
I was actually referring to the settings needed in your arduino codoe for both the Server and port when using HA. I also am having troubles getting your arduino code to compile.. I'm sure that this is a problem on my side of things - perhaps not understanding how to include some of the includes. I have successfully connected to the 8266 with the blink demo. Lastly- a thought to improve your project- why not include a temp sensor?? This will be my variant if I can get it to work ;) Thanks again- your channel is great!!
Adding a temp sensor is super easy, only requires about 10 lines of code.
The MQTT server port and address will vary based on your personal setup. If you're running HA you probably use 1883 for port and the server address is the IP of the raspberry pi that runs your HA.
Thx.. makes sense and I'm down that path (looking @ the Brauh multisensor) Still having issues with compiling the Arduino side though. should I d/l the github links in your code & include them Sketch>include library>add .zip library. I am missing something here.. very sorry.
Yes, you'll need to put those libraries in to be able to compile.
I bet I could use your WiFi battery powered reed switch design to send a message to HA, which then could send an RF message via Sonoff RF Bridge to the cheap “smart” doorbell you also created. I bought the initial parts for the doorbell, have to figure out exactly how I want to do the wireless reed switches. I love the idea of recessed magnetic ones that I could hide in a door, door trim, or window trim.
So i flashed my NodeMCU with tasmota and did the rest of the build as instructed. I get the notifications just fine, but can't get the sound to work. I tried changing the transistor around every way I could think and nothing. I have pin D4 as a relay that I tried switching on and off and get nothing. When I remove D4 from the transistor base, the sound plays, but D4 connected, silence.
Are you using the transistor I linked?
@@TheHookUp Yep. Didn't notice until my 3rd time watching the video that I had to add the transistor. I gave up and am just using the switch on the back to manually turn the sound on/off. I disconnected the D4 pin and am just using the MQTT notifications.
@@JimmieMcCullough -- Pin D4 is a "special boot" pin that must be HIGH on boot for the ESP8266 chip to boot your code properly. If this pin is LOW on boot, your code will not execute. The same can be said of PIN D8 - Must be kept LOW during boot if it is used for a sensor. As other has mentioned above, swap D4 for PIN D2 - change the reference in the sketch, and it will work fine. --- This is a very common mistake I also learned the hard way on the Wemos D1 Mini board - very similar.
If I wanted to trigger the doorbell from mqtt, how would I go about doing so?
Did you ever figure this out? :)
Looking for this too
Great video. I'm holding out on learning mqtt but looks like I'll eventually get there.
Thinking I'll just use the konnected code to get started. Love the toggle for sound on or off!
I am ready to do this project. Ordered Wireless Doorbell and has a Node MCU (not sure what is the difference but what I have is a "Wireless module NodeMcu Lua WIFI Internet of Things development board based ESP8266 CP2102 with pcb Antenna and usb port" and hope it would work. This is the same NodeMCU I have used to create 5x of Ben's multi-sensor nodes
From video I understand that I could skip the door sensor (I already have broad link door sensor on my front door)
My questions
a) can I skip 2n2222 NPN Transistor as I am keen on Audio Doorbell/Silent Doorbell function and would like to minimise soldering.
c) if I skip the transistor and door reader do I need to change the Arduino code or can I just upload the full code from your project. I know what I need to add to configuration.YAML in HA. My experience in creating Ben's Sensor nodes is that I could omit adding physical sensor and still could upload the full Arduino code to NodeMCU and only omit relevant code in HA.
So in short I am only going to use the doorbell to send a mqtt message when doorbell is pressed. I have tested picture capture and notifying with Blue-iris and pushbullet. Just need to use your project as a trigger.
Thanks in advance.
The NPN transistor is what controls the silent/audible doorbell, so if you skip it that part won't work. The code doesn't need to be modified at all, you can leave out as many of the hardware parts as you want and the code will still function.
@@TheHookUp thank you very much for the carification
@@TheHookUp as a follow up to this question, if I didn't want a Reed switch or the option to turn sound off (literally just want a notification with a camera snap from HA to my android phone when someone presses the bell), can I omit the transistor, and wires from D3 and D4 on nodeMCU?
Make new updated video with a common doorbell! :D
You can use any 2xAA powered doorbell receiver as long it has a flashing light
Nice tips however the bell is not for sale anymore, is there an alternative bell??
King Richard indeed! Any suggestions?
@@GG-kq6ok my guess should be newer 1byone bell??
King Richard Cant find them in the netherlands..
@@GG-kq6ok www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3Z1XRV maybe??
No sellers.. :(
Awesome! I followed your instruction but i get a weird thing. It connects to mqtt just fine, but almost immediately disconnect and reconnects agains. And this sequence loops. Is there something i'm missing here?
Do you have 2 clients with the same client ID?
Good one, i'll check and let you know
@@TheHookUp Seems not. I have a "checkln/DoorbellMCU" an "doorbell" and "doorbell/commands". The doorbell chime switch in hassio does not stay in the "on" position when pressed. It publishes the topic Audio Doorbell. The "checkln/DoorbellMCU" publishes the "Reconnected" message every 10 or so seconds..
Great video!
I have a different wireless door-bell, and I can't for the life of me get PIN D0 to read the LED correctly. What baffles me is, that when I measure with a multimeter between LED + and - I always get ~ 1 V. I had it working almost correctly, but only when I silence the speaker with the D4 -> transistor (which works flawlessly). I can't seem to find anywhere on the PCB, where I have ~ 0V when the bell isn't ringing and more when it is. Any tips?
Can you branch off the + lead of the LED?
I didn't manage to find a spot anywhere near the LED, but somewhere behind the IC, there was a diode (not an LED, an actual zener-diode), and probing around, this proved to be a nice spot to tap in. So, I got it working in the end! Oh, and great video BTW, the turn off/on of the speaker is brilliant :)
Why not use MQTTgateway, RFlink or an RTL-SDR to pick up and decode the RF signal?
That's how I interface HASS.IO with my wireless doorbell and wireless smoke alarms, a simple RTL-SDR.
Works like a charm and RTL-SDR is dirt cheap.
Paid 6€ for mine, shipping included.
I have tried this, minus the Reed switch and option selector, but added a temperature sensor. All appeared good, but couple of hours later the receiver refuses to chime when the bell is pressed. If I unplug the 5v and plug back in again it will work correctly for some time before dying again. The nodemcu appears unaffected. 😩
Did you make sure you are supplying 3.3v, not 5 to the board?
@@TheHookUp yeah.. I originally had a 3.3 connected as described in the video and daisy chained from that on the receiver to my dht22. Later a hooked another 3.3 to the same bridge, thinking it wasn't getting enough mA. All same behaviour
Huh, maybe a bad doorbell board?
@@TheHookUp sad! More testing... But great video! Thanks
Does anybody know if it's possible to trigger the chime from MQTT rather than/as well as the button press?
Wondering the same thing. Were you able to get it to work?
I like this!! Great video!
Can you recommend any tutorials, sources , websites etc to learn arduino?
here on YT - "aurdiuno for absolute beginers"
How is the battery life with this? Or do you have the chime plugged into the wall?
I've got it plugged in, battery life would be bad with this configuration (the ESP is always on). You could make a battery version with an ESP-01 if you wired the LED up to the reset pin and just had it deepSleep until the chime.
Huge thanks to you sir.
Also, I'd be ever so grateful if you could kindly do this tutorial using node- red please
Thank you again
ruclips.net/video/SuoSXVqjyfc/видео.html
So I have attempted this project with an Adafruit Huzzah ESP8266 and mostly everything works but the Audio - Silent / Sound. I am unable to mute the sound at all.
So, I have a question that didn't seem to be covered in the video. Does the original board's sound switch need to be removed? It didn't look like you removed it from the split second view of the finished product that the video showed. If it didn't need to be removed (which I didn't and managed to solder the NPN resistor fine) I just may have my Emitter / Collector incorrect.
Nevermind, I see that you never connected the base to the back of the board. I just ended up de-soldering the base from the board and re-soldering just the wire to the base.
oh, yeah, I was actually worried about that on the diagram. I couldn't figure out a good way to show that there was no connection there.
Hi, I'm having the same issue. Can you explain again how this is configured and what happens to the legacy switch again please? Many thanks for the vids.
Legacy switch stays. NPN transistor's base is not connected to the board at all. Just connect the base to the wire.
Thanks for a great guide. I've now successfully achieved a similar result with my 2 mains doorbell receivers. However, I've one concern. I'm now left with the 2 Wemos D1 minis I used still broadcasting their SSIDs as unsecured networks. I'm concerned these may be a security risk, as they obviously contain the WiFi password for my router. Could someone access this info remotely somehow?
The short answer to your question is "No, it's not possible". The better answer is add this line to the arduino code in the void setup section:
WiFi.mode(WIFI_STA);
It will turn off the broadcast SSID. I went ahead and updated the code on github as well.
Thanks. Really appreciated.
I've also now changed the code, so I can flash my 2 doorbell receivers over Wi-Fi. I just added the following code into the void setup.
// No authentication by default
// ArduinoOTA.setPassword("admin");
// Password can be set with it's md5 value as well
// MD5(admin) = 21232f297a57a5a743894a0e4a801fc3
// ArduinoOTA.setPasswordHash("21232f297a57a5a743894a0e4a801fc3");
ArduinoOTA.onStart([]() {
String type;
if (ArduinoOTA.getCommand() == U_FLASH) {
type = "sketch";
} else { // U_FS
type = "filesystem";
}
// NOTE: if updating FS this would be the place to unmount FS using FS.end()
Serial.println("Start updating " + type);
});
ArduinoOTA.onEnd([]() {
Serial.println("
End");
});
ArduinoOTA.onProgress([](unsigned int progress, unsigned int total) {
Serial.printf("Progress: %u%%
", (progress / (total / 100)));
});
ArduinoOTA.onError([](ota_error_t error) {
Serial.printf("Error[%u]: ", error);
if (error == OTA_AUTH_ERROR) {
Serial.println("Auth Failed");
} else if (error == OTA_BEGIN_ERROR) {
Serial.println("Begin Failed");
} else if (error == OTA_CONNECT_ERROR) {
Serial.println("Connect Failed");
} else if (error == OTA_RECEIVE_ERROR) {
Serial.println("Receive Failed");
} else if (error == OTA_END_ERROR) {
Serial.println("End Failed");
}
});
ArduinoOTA.setHostname("doorbellR1");
ArduinoOTA.begin();
Serial.println("Ready");
Serial.print("IP address: ");
Serial.println(WiFi.localIP());
Cloud services ❌
Somebody elses computer ✅
What is the 2N2222 transistor actually doing? Shorting the speaker? If so, is that safe?
it's "flipping" the switch on the PCB. It completes the ground circuit of the speaker.
The Hook Up but the circuit is not completed also when led goes ON anyway?I didn’t quite understand this part of the transistor.
Zeph - The transistor is an "electronic" switch, just like the "mechanical" switch on the original hardware design. Interrupting the ground connection to the speak (" aka cutting the wire ") is not a SHORT - it is the OPPOSITE - OPEN circuit (infinite resistance). The transistor either completes the circuit (NO RESISTANCE/MINIMAL) or OPENS the circuit (INFINITE resistance) and no electrical connection. I hope this helps.
Another great video
If using arduino to upload your code to the ESP, what board do you select? I purchased a similar ESP to yours but, mine has the CH340G serial adapter. I'm using Board: Generic ESP8266, flash size 4M 3 Spiifs, CPU 80, UL Speed reduced to 9600. I followed your troubleshooting ESP vids but, no luck. Keep getting the following errors:
warning: espcomm_sync failed
error: espcomm_open failed
error: espcomm_upload_mem failed
error: espcomm_upload_mem failed
Can you post a link to the ESP you are using?
I am ready to do my doorbell so was watching the video again. I noted that you were talking about port forwarding for ha, node red, esphome etc etc. I had issues with Duckdns and port forwarding and then having SSL. I then installed NGINX reverse proxy (I did it on a windows 10 machine I have where I run Blueiris software for all my cameras 24x7). I created multiple domains with Duckdns and opened only port 443. when I come on say myha.duckdns.org I get to HA login page, mynr.duckdns.org I get to nodered, mybi.duckdns.org I am taken to Blue Iris log on page etc. It is super fast. I have created openSSL certificates and self signed them for each my my domains and added to NGINX. I also added more security in NGINX (NGINX is as powerful as Apache). There is a NGINX add on for Hass.io but I thought of having NGINX proxy in a different machine. May be something for you / Drzzz to implement and do a video (I am not good with video) as opening multiple ports on router and directly directing to various boxes is not a good thing. Just a suggestion
The better way to do it is to set up local dns on your router or even with your hosts file on your PC... I wouldn't recommend forwarding a bunch of ports as it leaves you more vulnerable to hacking.
i wired my MCU as such because i only care about "Ding" according to your advice: i.imgur.com/O2kgN49.jpg
then in my config.yaml file, i only added this:
sensor:
- platform: mqtt
name: "Doorbell"
state_topic: "doorbell"
expire_after: 10
does not matter which LED i connect to D0, i still see "unknown," not "ding" as in your video. am i missing something in my yaml?
im ok now. your code above is all that is needed. all i had to do was connect the other LED- to ground and it works! thank you
Is a pull down resister necessary?
You mean other than the built in pulldown on the nodemcu?
Can i use Wemos D1 mini or must use ESP8266 NodeMCU ?
yes, a wemos D1 will work fine.
Hey Rob, I am trying to follow this video, but I have the UK plug version, and can't work out where to connect the 2N2222? Here is a link to an image of my board..
simpletosmart.com/images/Doorbell_QH-823AK_Front.jpg
simpletosmart.com/images/Doorbell_QH-823AK_Back.jpg
Thanks-in advance! Great video again!
These days the rate limiter can also be programmed on the ESPHome itself using the 'throttle' filter.
esphome.io/components/sensor/index.html#throttle
Sorry to say your videos are too advanced because your explanations just go over my head. I am saying this even where I am considered to be quite tech savvy and you are really pitching things for people that are programmers with good electronics background. This is where we miss Ben a lot. He explain things in a way that most people could follow. Please slow down and explain - I will elaborate it with my question below
I have HA and Blue Iris set up. Blue Iris sever has 9 cameras and integrated to HA too. I also have Node Red and SSL with NGINX -reverse proxy
Now I do not want door sensors because I already having Broadlink S2 kit working with HA. So what I need is a method to give a state change to HA when door bell is pushed and then capture picture clip from my Blue Iris server and send as a notification. Blue Iris could do notifications too so I may want BI or HA to do this on door bell press. I was thinking of Amazon dash too but being IFTT dependent it would take more time. I also was thinking of Boradlink S2 door sensor in a housing to act as a door bell with two springs to detach and then when button press to create closed signal in HA to trigger rest. But your method is more - let me say professional.
Now if I am to use your doorbell only without door sensor do I need to add the resister? Well I do not understand from your explanation. Also which part of the code in Arduino should I eliminate as I do not want door sensor? Also which part link to capturing picture from the camera and using messaging to send the MMS?
Ben in his videos explain each part objective and explain things in very simple terms
Well I am not having a go at you. I have been very keen to learn node red from your series but gave up altogether as you are not pitching in a level that someone new could understand concepts. I suggested a dummies series for node red for these is very little videos on node red. Now I found this person's video series (OpenHome Automation) ruclips.net/channel/UCB1Qn68LM2cNNNOS2k_j65w and he explain things like Ben so that more people could understand and be motivated to try. Well after following him I may be able to come and figure our your node red videos as without that I am as lost as any. As I said I am considered by many as very tech savvy but not a programmer nor electronics engineer
I am not starting an argument here. Just some comments so that you could increase your user base and more people can be benefited from your good work (and no one would argue on that )
Thanks
I hear ya. I agree that my videos do require a decent amount of background knowledge. One thing that I have tried to keep constant on my channel is keeping my videos well scripted and produced. I want to keep them relatively short, so I do cut out things that I think most people already know. I also try not to repeat the same thing in multiple videos, so I often link to others (like my node red video). I'm sorry to hear that it's not easy for you to follow.
Here's the link you are looking for to include a picture in your SMS: YOURHASSIOADDRESS:8123/api/camera_proxy/camera.front_door?api_password=YOURPASSWORD
It was in the github link in the description.
I completely agree, as to where I am regarding all this home automation stuff. I've watched A LOT of videos, which start out basic and step by step, but QUICKLY start talking about code and making references to hardware stuff. Yikes. I then an lost and get discouraged. I need Step by step from the beginning of things. WHERE CAN I GO TO LEARN THAT???
I watched Dr Zzzs recent video talking about home automation introduction and the 3 levels of hub integration. Loved that video... Thing is, the 3rd option sounded most appealing to me, but Now What? Where can I go to start learning The Very Basics in order to start putting a system together?
MQTT SWITCH :D
Awesome video, I have a slightly different doorbell kit from 1byone so the board is a bit different. Where do you find info on the board and find all the relevant connections? Is there a site somewhere that has all this? For context this is the doorbell I have : www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MDVDE0T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just figured it out by probing around with a multimeter.
@@TheHookUp how would I find the emitter/collector on my board with a multimeter? Not sure when and how much volt I should expect on those points. My door bell seems to feed on about 4V (3xAA).
Cant i just pay u to do it for me!!
thanks, very useful :)
1 suggestion: take a look at the EspEasy firmware for these type of setups... for example you could have done everything without even writing a single line of code, not in arduino nor in yaml style... you just need to flash the firmware, connect to the web interface, then use it to define your sensors and actuators, connect to mqtt, and it's done... :)
look the actual list of official supported devices (others are in the forum in test version): www.letscontrolit.com/wiki/index.php/Devices
it seems that my layout has changed. Can this doorbell still be used ? See: www.mupload.nl/img/2duuys5mw87xz.jpg
esphomeyaml looked interesting so I gave it a try. All went well until the upload. After a lot of activity I got the following: INFO [esphomeyaml.espota] Starting on 0.0.0.0:6053
INFO [esphomeyaml.espota] Upload size: 345696
INFO [esphomeyaml.espota] Sending invitation to doorbell.local
ERROR [esphomeyaml.espota] Failed
ERROR [esphomeyaml.espota] Host doorbell.local Not Found
what did I do wrong
doorbell.local seems like a strange address, was it trying to do an OTA flash?
OOPs Sorry, I did not notice that the default was OTA. I changed that and all is OK. Based on my experience with your work, I knew that it must be my mistake. Thanks for all you do. BTW, you made a quick comment about using the MQTT add on instead of a separate MQTT broker so I changed. Much better... Thanks again.
C:\Users\WinPC\Desktop\Doorbell_CONFIGURE\Doorbell_CONFIGURE.ino:1:67: fatal error: SimpleTimer.h: No such file or directory
in the Doorbell_CONFIGURE.ino file each of the libraries listed at the top has a download link next to them. You'll need to add those 3 function libraries (simple timer, pubsub, and arduino OTA)
I felt like you where talking in a different language. But thanks for sharing.
Very nice project and thanks for sharing. I bought this doorbell of Amazon, but I see the board has a slight different design to yours, the serial number is also different - mine is "QH-823A-19". The ground and VCC wires enter on the right side as opposed to the left side.
What is strange is I measure 3V+ between the board ground wire and the LED positive wire, when the LED is not triggered. If I measure between the LED positive and negative it looks like expected, 0V when not triggered
As I see it, this won't work, since the wire from the LED + will be a high signal all the time
Am I missing something?
Here is my PCB:
imgur.com/a/VTwrX8k
For anyone else facing this issue:
The LED is connected between V+ and the GPIO of the microcontroller on the PCB. The negative LED wire is not connected to ground, so the method suggested in this video won't work for this revision of the PCB.
Whar does work, is to use an optocoupler, like the PC817C, with a resistor (I used 56E) on the input, connecting the led positive and negative, then I run the output to a RC filter and a 74HC14 IC, then on to a power latch circuit using a Si4599 (P / N channel mosfet) that acts as a power latch circuit. The ESP8266 is powered down, it is powered on when the LED flashes, and sends the MQTT message, then shuts itself down using the power latch. I don't power the doorbell from the ESP8266, I power the doorbell from a single LifePo4 3.2V cell, as well as the ESP8266 when it is powered on.
does someone want to build me this and ship it to me? will pay all of the expenses
I guess I have to go get a computer. It’s all your fault....and Dr Zzs
Nice Video, but dont think its that good to implent those into
As something of a script kiddie myself (I run the white hat hacking club at the school where I teach), the URL is embedded in the notification which is sent via https, it is not sent in in plaintext and cannot easily be read. I'd love to be able to use the api token for this, but unfortunately the token shifts every image, so you'd need to be able to have it be dynamic.