Awesome vid! The adjustability with the gain you have with the MAP dccd is incredible. I have a version 8 sti and it drives like a RWD BMW, a touch on the oversteer side but very easy to adjust if driving conditions change. the 35:65 power split of the GDA helps of course. Full confidence if I lose the rear end, its great to see peoples reactions when im sideways. I definitely need to service my rear diff, any platted rear diff can probably use a refresh because of the way Subaru set it up from factory. Cusco diff is a great option, or if on a budget new plates from RacingDiffs.
I stuck with the 2-way setup for that straight line braking stability the N14-R4 Impreza has for my STI, knowing they utilize STI 2-way rear lsd’s units with a selection of shallower ramp angles
Me watching this trying to learn about a Cusco diff for my 1.8 Miata RallyX build that didn't come with an lsd at all, and wondering if these same rules apply for RWD RallyX racing 🤔 No one has an install video for a Cusco Miata diff either. I don't even know where to begin
Thanks for your question and thanks for watching. Yes, this is relevant to your Miata. The 1.5 way would be a good place to start but for your RWD car, you may have the best results from a 2-way diff in RallyX. It would not be good on the street though. Some of the Cusco 1.5 way diff's also have the 2-way ramp angles as well. I'd say that would be the ideal setup for you. Hope that helps and let us know if you would like to work with us to source the diff! Stay Tuned!
@FlatironsTuning Thank you so much! the 1.5 wouldn't be good on the street? I don't & won't daily drive my miata, but I don't have a tow vehicle, so I'd be driving it to the track an hour north of me, and to car shows & cruises Would that diff that still be considered bad for that?
1.5way vs 2way on the rear... While 1.5way understeer slightly under braking...its more driver friendly that easy to suit multiple driving style... For 2way lsd...if the driver not throwing the car around maxing corner entry speed and entry intiation everytime, the car will suffer massive understeer which might not suit some driver's style... Which basically pendulum,drift style corner entry every time...
Are there any instances where you wouldn't want the rear diff to lock fully at 100%? I have an autocross evo and a cusco 1.0 way rear. 350ish whp, 285mm tires all the way around and it seemingly gets hop on exit. If I dial the throttle back slightly on exit, it's perfectly fine, which leads me to believe it might be the rear diff. I was attributing this possibly due to my diff being too aggressive at 100% lock up. Thoughts on if I should try 80 or 60%, or reduce preload? I know this isn't a subaru, but in ways they are alike.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your question. I'm guessing by hopping that the motion of the car feels like it is pulling front to back, not side to side? My initial guess would be that this is down to how the center differential is sending power front to back. It is possible that with the full lock capability of the rear diff that you are getting a lot of traction back there, but the car rear isn't breaking loose on throttle under corner exit. If you are also running all of the preload springs with the full lock of the differential, that could be a bit too much. I'd say next time you are out, try increasing your rear tire pressure a few psi to give them a bit less grip. If you add say 4-6 psi of pressure (maybe a bit more) and the car starts to rotate on throttle, does that stop the hopping? If so, I'd say maybe take 2 pre-load springs out of the center of the diff to make the lockup more progressive, that would help. I would say work with preload first, and maybe ramp angle before double stacking the clutch packs. It might also be worth trying a 1.5 way at some way so you can get the rear to start to rotate when you lift off throttle, but it may be too much lock for the lower speed corners. Hope that helps! Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning amazing response! Thank you so much. I also called Cusco directly in the mean time and they also believe the 141 FG rear diff (their most aggressive offering) could be too aggressive for my setup/power level. They recommended going down from the 24 preload springs (that comes that way from the factory) to 12 preload springs just to see what type of difference I might notice - so similar to what your initial recommendation is - thank you! FYI - my center diff and front diffs are completely stock (per my classing rules) but I can electronically adjust the lockup of the center diff (always a 50/50 split in the evo - just how quickly the center diff locks in varying conditions). The hop itself is hard to determine. To me it feels more of a side to side but also a combination of front to rear. I'll post up a video link or two to show what I'm feeling!
Ha! Honestly, this has just been a big topic around the shop lately, and with Tasso needing a diff, it was the perfect opportunity to have a conversation about it. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Awesome vid! Great information...I used the 1.5 Cusco LSD for my BRZ/FRS/86. I can't wait for the next vid.
I bet that is a lot of fun in the BRZ. Very cool.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning it is, took some getting used to. I paid it with the ring and pinion, as well as the PAR geartset 1st-5th...noisy fun
Awesome vid!
The adjustability with the gain you have with the MAP dccd is incredible. I have a version 8 sti and it drives like a RWD BMW, a touch on the oversteer side but very easy to adjust if driving conditions change. the 35:65 power split of the GDA helps of course. Full confidence if I lose the rear end, its great to see peoples reactions when im sideways. I definitely need to service my rear diff, any platted rear diff can probably use a refresh because of the way Subaru set it up from factory. Cusco diff is a great option, or if on a budget new plates from RacingDiffs.
Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching. Stay Tuned!
Great stuff, I enjoy learning about this kind of thing
Excellent! Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
I stuck with the 2-way setup for that straight line braking stability the N14-R4 Impreza has for my STI, knowing they utilize STI 2-way rear lsd’s units with a selection of shallower ramp angles
Excellent!
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Me watching this trying to learn about a Cusco diff for my 1.8 Miata RallyX build that didn't come with an lsd at all, and wondering if these same rules apply for RWD RallyX racing 🤔
No one has an install video for a Cusco Miata diff either. I don't even know where to begin
Thanks for your question and thanks for watching. Yes, this is relevant to your Miata. The 1.5 way would be a good place to start but for your RWD car, you may have the best results from a 2-way diff in RallyX. It would not be good on the street though. Some of the Cusco 1.5 way diff's also have the 2-way ramp angles as well. I'd say that would be the ideal setup for you.
Hope that helps and let us know if you would like to work with us to source the diff!
Stay Tuned!
@FlatironsTuning
Thank you so much!
the 1.5 wouldn't be good on the street?
I don't & won't daily drive my miata, but I don't have a tow vehicle, so I'd be driving it to the track an hour north of me, and to car shows & cruises
Would that diff that still be considered bad for that?
Title: Looking at a Diff and talking about setting it up.
What type of oil can you use in that diff? What if you can't find the manufacture diff oil.
1.5way vs 2way on the rear...
While 1.5way understeer slightly under braking...its more driver friendly that easy to suit multiple driving style...
For 2way lsd...if the driver not throwing the car around maxing corner entry speed and entry intiation everytime, the car will suffer massive understeer which might not suit some driver's style... Which basically pendulum,drift style corner entry every time...
Great comment Amir. Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
Are there any instances where you wouldn't want the rear diff to lock fully at 100%? I have an autocross evo and a cusco 1.0 way rear. 350ish whp, 285mm tires all the way around and it seemingly gets hop on exit. If I dial the throttle back slightly on exit, it's perfectly fine, which leads me to believe it might be the rear diff. I was attributing this possibly due to my diff being too aggressive at 100% lock up. Thoughts on if I should try 80 or 60%, or reduce preload? I know this isn't a subaru, but in ways they are alike.
Thanks for watching and thanks for your question. I'm guessing by hopping that the motion of the car feels like it is pulling front to back, not side to side?
My initial guess would be that this is down to how the center differential is sending power front to back.
It is possible that with the full lock capability of the rear diff that you are getting a lot of traction back there, but the car rear isn't breaking loose on throttle under corner exit. If you are also running all of the preload springs with the full lock of the differential, that could be a bit too much.
I'd say next time you are out, try increasing your rear tire pressure a few psi to give them a bit less grip. If you add say 4-6 psi of pressure (maybe a bit more) and the car starts to rotate on throttle, does that stop the hopping?
If so, I'd say maybe take 2 pre-load springs out of the center of the diff to make the lockup more progressive, that would help.
I would say work with preload first, and maybe ramp angle before double stacking the clutch packs.
It might also be worth trying a 1.5 way at some way so you can get the rear to start to rotate when you lift off throttle, but it may be too much lock for the lower speed corners.
Hope that helps!
Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning amazing response! Thank you so much.
I also called Cusco directly in the mean time and they also believe the 141 FG rear diff (their most aggressive offering) could be too aggressive for my setup/power level. They recommended going down from the 24 preload springs (that comes that way from the factory) to 12 preload springs just to see what type of difference I might notice - so similar to what your initial recommendation is - thank you!
FYI - my center diff and front diffs are completely stock (per my classing rules) but I can electronically adjust the lockup of the center diff (always a 50/50 split in the evo - just how quickly the center diff locks in varying conditions).
The hop itself is hard to determine. To me it feels more of a side to side but also a combination of front to rear. I'll post up a video link or two to show what I'm feeling!
I'm new to the channel, and like the topics and pro talk. But, can you guys fix your microphone please?
Who's this video for though...for real... Lol!!
Ha! Honestly, this has just been a big topic around the shop lately, and with Tasso needing a diff, it was the perfect opportunity to have a conversation about it.
Thanks for watching and Stay Tuned!
#treybuyadiff