Jump from 35mm to 645 is pretty large, jump from 645 to 6x9 may not feel as huge but is still signifficant. That being said, I like my GW690 and GSW690: lenses are good and negative size is pretty large. As I rarely shoot wide open, especially with a bit stopped down, plenty sharp. Much more portable and faster to use than my 4x5 that has also it's place when movements are needed. In my headphones the winding sound seems pretty much what my cameras sound, perhaps with a bit of weird metallic sound but that may be due to audio recording or whatever.
I use my Fuji 6x7 and 6x9cm medium format rangefinder cameras when I need image quality that is higher than my 35mm cameras can produce. I also use my Fuji 6x7 and 6x9cm medium format rangefinder cameras when I need to carry something smaller and lighter in weight than my 4x5 inch large format view camera.
I've never tried large format, so 6x9 is my biggest format. I don't use it very often, but when I use it I'm always amazed by its image quality. It's a lovely camera for sure.
Hey! Great video, I’m curious how you got proper exposures with this camera? I’m used to a light meter built into the camera and noticed this doesn’t have one. Any suggestions? 🙏
Don't be afraid of not having a built-in light meter. You can use sunny 16 rules to estimate your exposure. (just google sunny 16 there are a ton of information available online). You can also use an app on your phone (like ASLightMeter) or you can get a tiny light meter from TTArtisan or Voigtlander.
I use external light meter with GW690. I've been considering one of those cold shoe mounted meters like TTArtisan etc make, but as I mostly shoot on tripod anyway, spotmeter is the way to go for 90% of my shooting style and subjects.
Since you mentioned shooting the Ttartisans 50mm 0.95 on your M3 I’m interested to know if you are able to focus that combination accurately wide open and if you have gone through the laborious task of calibrating that lens? I too have that lens and have avoided using it on my M6 for those reasons.
I use that TTA 50 wide open on my M3 all the time, and results are good. Of course I had to calibrate it twice. It's not that hard, if you have a mirrorless digital camera and some patience it's totally doable. One more thing that I noticed was that lens out of the box with no calibration wasn't that bad and was usable up to f2, but for f0.95 calibration was necessary
Do you know if whether the lens has thorium in it (is therefore radioactive). I want to buy one of these and I had problems with my countries customs, when I tried to import radioactive lenses. I cannot find any trustworthy information on the internet about this and other fuji cameras from that aera.
If you mean focusing I do it by rangefinder, it's pretty accurate. Of course you can set the distance on the lens and zone focus, but I wouldn't do that because of the depth of field is relatively shallow. There is also frame lines in the viewfinder that you can use to frame your shot.
I love the comparison between Fujica and Leica. Bokeh of 90mm lens is crazy good, but that Leica 35mm wins in terms of sharpness.
Agree with you! 35mm summicron is very sharp but it's all about bokeh 😬
Jump from 35mm to 645 is pretty large, jump from 645 to 6x9 may not feel as huge but is still signifficant. That being said, I like my GW690 and GSW690: lenses are good and negative size is pretty large. As I rarely shoot wide open, especially with a bit stopped down, plenty sharp. Much more portable and faster to use than my 4x5 that has also it's place when movements are needed.
In my headphones the winding sound seems pretty much what my cameras sound, perhaps with a bit of weird metallic sound but that may be due to audio recording or whatever.
Thanks for your comment. That 90mm lens is very sharp of course and negative size is just beautiful!
I use my Fuji 6x7 and 6x9cm medium format rangefinder cameras when I need image quality that is higher than my 35mm cameras can produce. I also use my Fuji 6x7 and 6x9cm medium format rangefinder cameras when I need to carry something smaller and lighter in weight than my 4x5 inch large format view camera.
I've never tried large format, so 6x9 is my biggest format. I don't use it very often, but when I use it I'm always amazed by its image quality. It's a lovely camera for sure.
Hey! Great video, I’m curious how you got proper exposures with this camera? I’m used to a light meter built into the camera and noticed this doesn’t have one. Any suggestions? 🙏
Don't be afraid of not having a built-in light meter. You can use sunny 16 rules to estimate your exposure. (just google sunny 16 there are a ton of information available online). You can also use an app on your phone (like ASLightMeter) or you can get a tiny light meter from TTArtisan or Voigtlander.
I use external light meter with GW690. I've been considering one of those cold shoe mounted meters like TTArtisan etc make, but as I mostly shoot on tripod anyway, spotmeter is the way to go for 90% of my shooting style and subjects.
Since you mentioned shooting the Ttartisans 50mm 0.95 on your M3 I’m interested to know if you are able to focus that combination accurately wide open and if you have gone through the laborious task of calibrating that lens? I too have that lens and have avoided using it on my M6 for those reasons.
I use that TTA 50 wide open on my M3 all the time, and results are good. Of course I had to calibrate it twice. It's not that hard, if you have a mirrorless digital camera and some patience it's totally doable. One more thing that I noticed was that lens out of the box with no calibration wasn't that bad and was usable up to f2, but for f0.95 calibration was necessary
Do you know if whether the lens has thorium in it (is therefore radioactive).
I want to buy one of these and I had problems with my countries customs, when I tried to import radioactive lenses. I cannot find any trustworthy information on the internet about this and other fuji cameras from that aera.
I've never heard anything that says this lens might be radioactive. Where did you see that?
How do you do framing? Visually on the rangefinder or by the numbering on the lens?
If you mean focusing I do it by rangefinder, it's pretty accurate. Of course you can set the distance on the lens and zone focus, but I wouldn't do that because of the depth of field is relatively shallow. There is also frame lines in the viewfinder that you can use to frame your shot.
That film rewind doesn't sound normal
I know! my camera may need some lube, but even if it was super smooth it's still a lot of noise
This camera does not have a film rewind. It is probably the film winding that does not sound normal to you.