Welding Helmets Tips and Tricks
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
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In this video, I talk about lots of different welding helmets, some unusual welding helmets, and some good auto darkening helmets
I started welding with an oxyacetylene torch in the late 1960's, moved on to technology work, and am just coming back to welding again. I did a little stick welding while in college, as well, as part of an industrial engineering course. In those days, a welding helmet was a hood with a dark glass you looked through. My helmet is now about 60 years old (got it used).
No one seems to explain how these new units work, but as I recall, the purpose of a helmet lens was to stop you from going blind from the high intensity ultraviolet light of the weld arc or torch flame, while still making it possible to see what you were doing, and were just dark glass. These new helmet lenses appear to be some kind of active LCD or some such, with the darkening controlled electronically - basically a variable density filter-based glass.
What comes to mind is why the technology popularized by cell phones - i.e. a camera and an LED display screen - wouldn't be the obvious choice to replace filtration lenses. The cameras are autofocus and autoexposure, so they would autodarken in response to the area focused on, and the display would only emit in the range of the visible spectrum that is not dangerous to the human eye - just like you can see the IR emitter in a TV remote if you look at it through a cell phone. Are there such helmets?
Certainly, a battery would be needed, but it would seem that the electronics required would be far less than required for a cell phone, so the batteries (removable/rechargeable would make sense) would last far longer - especially if a solar recharger panel were attached to the front of the helmet to capitalize on the high-intensity light emitted while welding.
There are many videos on RUclips that talk about helmets and welding, but none I've seen so far that talk about how the helmets accomplish darkening and sight protection. It seems to me that for people new to welding, who haven't been taught by a pro, it would be valuable to discuss this so that they wouldn't make a mistake that costs them their eyesight, while also adding value to their understanding of how things work. I'd be interested in knowing if any of the commentors have seen a video that describes this kind of stuff.
i cant afford a super nice helmet but i make do with what i got just a 30.00 kobalt fixed shade from lowes. But if i could have any helmet that i wanted i would just want one signed from Jody because you have made me more confident in my welding and you are set out to help as many people as you can in the world and to me that makes you a hero. so thank you for all your time that you put into these videos and your passion for helping people.
This comment stands true more now than ever, bout brought a tear to ma eye lol cuz I gotta agree, Jody has been such a giver and inspiration in the welding community, a staple in the industry now. And without him, the flame within me may very well have been extinguished quite awhile ago. The way he opened my eyes to what welding CAN be, for ANYone who wants it, just really changed my world. I am one of MANY who agree. Anyway, thanks for this old comment u made
My tips for seeing the puddle are having clean lenses all the way thru, being comfortable, always keeping your head way out of the fumes which usually are directed up from the weld, and trying a low + magnifier lens. It can help even with the best of vision. Also don't look at the arc, look at the edges of the puddle.
When i learned how to weld i used the green autodarkening helmets, but now i bought an ancient fibre metal pipeliner helmet with a gold #10 and i'd never use anything else. i LOVE the gold lens and the clarity that it gives you.
Not sure if you know. be carefull not to scratch a gold lens , that can let in harmfull rays damageing you eyes. Thats only reason i dont like gold lenses.
I'd say head position plays a huge part in puddle visibility. Especially in newbies learning the ropes. Moving your head not only changes the perspective of the puddle, but also makes a difference in how the light plays across the bead.
Lighting is a big deal, we all learn to do without, but artificial lighting helps you "see the road". But a lot of us have had that "too much light" moment -- maybe working outside -- when the glare hits the inside of your hood from behind (like the sun). That's a no-go.
Sometime pushing or pulling can make all the difference. If you're in a position where pulling isn't giving you good visibility, try pushing.
Practice, practice, practice -- that will help you the most. Sometimes you can work through a bit of time where you can't see well, based on feel, sound and rhythm. Welding by Braille if you will.
Good idea on the give away notification. I'm watching this in 2020.
How was 2020 for ya
Hey I'm watching this in 1974 and none of this stuff has been invented yet.
l weld on alot of cars, and lighting can be a problem so l have a small hikers light mounted on top of my helmet,this helps to see what your looking at with the helmet down before striking an arc,
awesome tip mr. mustie. loooove your channel also. :)
buy a auto-darkening helmet, they are awesome
That is a great tip. Haven’t thought of it nor tried it but I’m assuming will make a big difference. Cheers Mustie1
@@roki709 They don't work good if you're in a super dark location bro XD
Not uncommon to see that in ship yards. I personally hate hed lamps at you ineviably blibd the guy next to you
I bought a Hobart Impact hood for welding school. It's a pretty nice piece. The viewing area is pretty big, it goes from #8-13 shade, has 3 arc sensors, grind mode, and a pretty comfortable head gear... Most of the bells and whistles. Haven't started school yet, so performance is TBD. Just playing around with it at home though, I like it
I have found the welding caps/masks or the autodarkening goggles very handy for welds in the field where you cannot get a full-sized hood into a tight spot to make a weld. However, make sure to have a stout fr balaclava on to make sure you don't burn your hair/face up. Another thing I have found handy is mounting a rifle flashlight to my hood in low-light conditions. I bought some rails and a rifle mounted flashlight (with a usb rechargeable battery) from amazon and mounted one rail to each side of my hood and boom. It gets me through an 8-12 hour day and it is handy when you have your hood down and need to weld something like a knife lug precisely on a mark in low-light conditions. My 3350 took a lickin and kept on tickin.....until last week. It lasted me 4 years and survived a 5 story fall off a building (my hard hat didn't survive but my hood survived). I'm looking at getting speedglas now.
I run a viking 3350 as well, I love it! Coming from a cheap $50 princess auto auto-darkening helmet to the viking was an incredible difference.
Hey Jody I've been a union ironworker for 19 years. I've welded lots of stick and Flux core but never had the opportunity to weld tig on the job. Thanks to your videos I've recently setup scratch start tig at home. Your videos have helped me so much in learning tig. Thanks a million!!!
19 years!Congratulations bro...I'll have twenty years in June...local 7 Boston...structural guy all the way..just got back from a steelmill shutdown in Ohio.Ive lost a few brother ironworkers over the years,as im sure you have too...thats if you even ARE still alive...which im sure you are!
Back in the day, when autodarks were crap and crazy expensive, I tried quite a few unique helmets for TIG. One of my favorites was a Bilsom Vision. It has a two stage lens where the whole front is about a shade 4 and is mirrored, then there is an adjustable inset lens that combined with the outer lens takes it to the weld shade level you want. Instead of flipping up your hood, all you had to do was adjust your line of sight to look around the inset filter. It was especially great for tacking things up. And no neck burns like a lot of my coworkers had from using "Shorty" welding helmets. Of course that was back before glasses and cheaters. Now it's autodark all the way with a Balder, and a Jackson Truesight.
I got a cheap lincoln knock off from the local welding supply store. It looks identical to your preferred helmet but only cost me $75. When I first started welding I used to put a shop light on the other side of my weld and it helped me to see the puddle and line I was welding (or trying to weld).
Thanks for the awesome videos,
Mike
I have an Eastwood auto darkening helmet and I really like it. I haven't tried any of the really expensive helmets so I don't know what their clarity is like but this one seems very clear to me and the true color feature has helped me see the puddle and where I'm welding much better.
I use a fibremetal Honeywell Pipeliner hood with a shade 10 miller auto darkening lens and i absolutely love it!
I tried the $20.00 Harbor Freight auto dark at my home shop because I got tired of bringing my Lincoln back and forth from work. It was ok for the home shop until I used it with an inverter tig. When I dipped the rod in the puddle it completed an electromagnetic field that shut off the auto dark and defaulted to grind mode. I couldn't even tell you where that P.O.S. is now.
I never thought of this but that brings up a good question. Does High Frequency effect auto darkening hoods any? Im sure when they first came out they probably did. But i dont know. That might be why so e mess up when going from transformer to inverter.
I use to have my dads old Jackson fiber board helmet. I loved it. It was perfect when it was time to weld you did the welder head nod and down it went and you started to burn.
Thanks for the excellent video which explains why some auto-darkening helmets don't work with inverters. I never expected that as common sense would suggest that the light coming from the arc would be the same. Whoops!
I'm still using my Huntsman 411p and believe it's the lightest,most indestructible welding helmet made to this day!I understand you can get a auto-darkening attachment and have been considering looking into one but for now(and the last 40+ years) it's everything I could ask for...
After 50 years of welding I think you have my collection beat a little bit. I still go back and use all mine at one time or another. Cheaters have become my go to now.
Your videos are so valuable. I did purchase a 3M 6000 series half face respirator and it came with two sets of P-100 particulate filters which should protect while sharpening tungsten electrodes, however I would like to know what cartridge you use to protect from Zinc when welding galvanize steel. I do not see a listing for inorganic metallic fume. I have decided to upgrade my cheap auto-darkening helmut to either a Lincoln 3350 or a Jackson BH3 (can't make up my mind) to see forward so I do not wander off the desired line like I tend to do now. My cheap import auto-darkening helmut has never once flashed me but is definitely not clear enough.
Jody,
Would you consider doing a video on PAPR and other respiratory protection options for welders?
I'm a novice welder currently undergoing a career change in mid-life. I find my older lungs less tolerant of the welding fumes and everything that comes off some of the more toxic metal alloys.
Your experience would be great on a video!
(Really enjoyed the podcast episode on the topic)
I love experienced advise over speculations; I use a welder and helmet that are older than me I inherit from my grandfather. He always told me "heavier weld darker lens" referring to current and gases.
thanks jody great talk and tell > the old school pipe fitters helmet w/ a flip front cover lens, beanie and half jacket...l like yours also. the two hand method shown in some of your other videos, to me, explains how some of the other models came about - quite the collection. again thanks
I use the lincoln viking 3350, and i love it, great viewing angle, really clear, and theres so much adjustment in the head gear itll fit just about anyone, plus the mojo graphics look sweet
Back in the 70's I had a Huntsman. 411p hood, being it's made of pressed board it was ok till I left it in the rain and it soaked up water and warped, then I couldn't wear it anymore.
I use Johnson Pledge spray furniture polish, really cleans and clears up a dirty lens, worked great.
l I've been using a Miller Elite hood, I don't like it because every 15 minutes the helmet is idle it turns off, and I forget to push the button to turn it on again and get flashed.
Great Video. Thanks
the rubber band on the pipeliner is really nice when youre lying on the ground
+ZohanLohan i dig my FM Pipeliner!
I have been using a Kempi Beta 90X for over 15 years, It was $800+ here in Australia when i bought it. The last couple of years I have been using a Speedglas Flip-Up Welding Helmet 9100XXi FX Air with Adflo PAPR that cost me $2000 here in Australia.
I have tried a variety of helmets in my forty plus years of welding. I have added auto lenses for upgrading standard style hoods. Took quite a few years before I found one that fit the Jackson Wide View (hood had and has a serious droop problem even with new replacement headgear which is no longer available for it but I still like the wide view). I have used the cheaper ones as I have to watch my shop budget. One big advantage are the self charging (arc and or shop lights and sun all work on my favorite and it has lasted years) auto lens. No batteries to go dead or hard to find locally. The biggest problem I have found always gets back to the headgear. Most droop. Even with an auto darkener that is a royal pain. The Jackson which I bought in the late eighties is the heaviest which is a drawback but I trade it for the view. Some of the newer (mid price) ones are nice and light but none have yet been a winner in the droop category. The newer ones also seem to be getting worse in the friction knobs rather than better. I have a few more years hopefully of welding and I keep hoping for the perfect helmet. The good news is watching AVe testing them with U/V and IR instruments they all protect your eyes filtering 100 per cent of both out even when they haven't darkened. Safety glasses and cheap sun glasses let almost all through to your eyes. Good video. Take care. Doug
Ha, 4 years later and I still find new videos. That little cap was exactly the product I was brainstorming the other day when I was remembering a little oddjob I did for an acquaintance a few months ago which required me to slide under his little tuner hatchback which had a broken exhaust mount he needed reattached. I got the job done, but wasn't happy with the overall quality which was mainly affected by my bulky miller helmet keeping me really far back from the weld. He waa happy though, and he took it to the track the next day and passed all his inspections and it's held up since. Seeing as the charge was a pack of beer I'd say everybody was a winner :)
I have a Harbor Freight auto dark helmet. Bought it 2004 for a high school class. I have not used a passive hood since.
My freshman and Sophomore weld classes all we had was old passives. Junior year of high school, I got accepted to the vocational program. Spend half the day in regular school and half the day at a multi-school-district campus learning your chosen trade.
We had to have our own helmets and they had to be auto.
Used it for the school year and it sat on a shelf in my bedroom for about 8 years before it ever saw the light of day again.
Still works fine. I can see, I can weld somewhat. head band ratchet works smooth enough. Flip down ratchets work ok. And I still prefer to use the shade adjuster at a 9.5
Works for me! lol
Thanks Jody for this video. I just recently finished a welding class and, since I only see out of my right eye (left was retina damaged when I was a kid), the helmet became the biggest obstacle to me progressing my skills. I started out with a Harbor Frt auto helmet and after it became apparent I wasn't seeing too good, my instructor recommended the Jackson with a gold 10 lens. He was a proponent of those standard types because he wanted us to learn to use them first.
I was able to see much better with the Jackson but tacking was a hassle so I researched and bought a Lincoln 3350. You are so right about that helmet. I love it! It instantly made things better. I'm still building skills but think I have the right helmet to progress. So, now I have the start of a helmet collection although not as many as you.
Thanks
good luck with your learning and also your welding career
I purchased an Optrel made in Switzerland auto darkening helmet back in 95, cost about 900 British pounds including the breathing gear,I think back then there was around two and a half dollars to the pound. That was very good and lasted until five years ago when the lens started to delaminate and went permanently dark, it never flashed me even with inverters but it would switch to dark under low-bay lights (sodium discharge) as used in many factories and ware houses. I found that it was not the brightness of the light that made them change to dark but the pulsating of the infrared from the weld, if you hold them up to the sun and wave your fingers in front fast enough they will change also I found that a TV remote would change them to dark, I had a bit of fun after that making people think there was something wrong with their helmet using an old tv remote in my pocket, the infrared went though overalls material.
Had an old Fibre Metal passive when I started, then bought a Jackson NexGen. Used that for many years until it quit working. Went to a Jackson Shadow passive for a while, and just ordered a Balder BH3 - hope I like it.
I got mine from Canadian tire for 100 bucks and its really good. Its got the sensitivity settings to auto darking and the amount of lenses you want to use ranging from 9-14 I think. Also clear lense for grinding.
i use gold and silver shades and it makes the difference for me i don´t really like auto darkening that much
I have two Jackson Translight helmets. One is battery and the other solar. I bought the battery one about 20yrs ago for £200 and got the solar helmet for nothing! No problems with the auto lens, but the retainer springs on the battery one broke years ago. I replaced them with a cut down 2.5mm welding rod bent to shape!
I'm currently using a Kobalt auto dark, it was one of the more costly ones they make coming in at about $150, I really don't have anything bad as far as dislikes with it.... My biggest gripe is with the positioning adjustment not working as well as I'd like, and maybe that the adjustment for holding it up while still being able to drop it with a head nod being really annoying to keep dialed in... Otherwise it's awesome! However I have my mind solidly set on the Viking when I am able to upgrade!a friend of mine let me take his for a test ride, and I was blown away! Most comfortable hood I've ever wrapped around my skull!! Certainly the Cadillac of welding hoods!
Hi Jody,
Excellent review for helmets, I've been using a Speedglass 9002X since it's out may be +/-15 years, I still like it a lot. That series of helmets where probably the first serious auto darkening helmets to come out on the market, just like you say welding machines evolve and helmets are improving.
I'll probably keep this helmet for a while.
To better see the puddle, first, practice makes better, you also have to bring your sight into a small area focusing mode, excluding the unwanted area far from the puddle, this also comes with practice.
A good source of lighting directed on the welding area is also a big plus.
Watching the work a little from the side, not so much from behind, will give better perspective.
Check if your glasses are adjusted properly, now I'm 60 just like Jody's maybe cheater lenses...
And clean lens is a must, when driving, nobody sees when the windshield is full of mud and squished flies...!
Thanks,
Pierre
Great video Jody....the new generation Lincoln viking 3350's are 100% better than the previous model much clearer view and better headgear
I have the Lincoln Viking 3350 and I have been flashed using my Evlerast Lightning MTS 275 on MIG before. Not sure if I was just having some weird issue. Haven't had a problem with it flashing me on TIG though, even if I go for the HF start and an arc doesn't form because I'm too far away (practice practice), it still darkens on TIG. (I always leave the sensitivity on high, speed on maximum).
In that case I guess nothing beats just a regular shaded lens. Except one thing I'd love to see become a commercial technology: VR goggles + cameras. Could massively improve visibility and eliminate the risk of flashing since the VR screen wouldn't be able to replicate UV or extremely high light levels. I know there's at least one person that's tried this. Don't feel like spending several hundred on VR goggles to experiment right now though.
I just bought a new Lincoln Viking helmet with the 4c tech and holy cow what a view! The headgear is awesome too. My view looks like the arc shots in Jody's videos now.
I love my Miller auto dark, but I like the passive because of the weight. It's not a big deal, but when you go from one to the other, you'll notice the difference. Also, how the headgear fits is a huge thing for me, especially for passive; how tight you can get it to stay up vs. how much head bump you need to bring it down, matters.
I'd like to see what your professional opinion is on more helmets please.
Good one!
hiquality_distraction I
Some great advice about the reading glasses... Thank you
I got that speed glass type you showed from Snap on in early 90's. Cost me $500 but I learned to weld with it cuz I could see all the time. I bought it along with a 110 volt Snap on welder. Used welder for about 5 years before graduating to a Millermatic 185 with an additional spool gun for aluminum.
My helmet is a simple one I got from Home Depot but it uses a solar panel to turn on or off so I don't have to worry about batteries. Works great with both my Mig and my Transformer Tig welder. I hear about all these helmets but they use batteries. Seems odd if the arc from any welder would be strong enough to power the solar panel and while there is power the lens is dark. As soon as your off the arc the lens is clear again. Never an issue for the past 4 years. I don't like the fit on the head but I do like the way the thing works without a battery.
Double-check your lens: my solar auto-darkening has battery back-up, takes 2 CR2450 lithium batteries. I think my shield was about six years old when I found this out (mine's a Miller Digital Elite)
I use a Speedglass 9100x and I love it for the most part. The company I work for provides everything when it comes to supplies so I never have to worry about a dirty lens. I have to say, that polish could really save a guy/company some money!
Thank you very much again. I use a $40. Harbor Freight helmet and love it. No inverter welding. And I put tape around the outer clear shield to keep the working parts clean.
Rosco in Australia here,I like the gold glass lenses about 11 shade for me.I have tried the auto hoods but I was doing a lot of very quick tacking and at the end of the days got flashed but that was a few generations of hood ago.I just like the passive flip down hood,old school I suppose and they are really cheap here in Aussie,$12 will buy you a cheap hood for rough jobs in the field where they tend to get trashed and dirty.I have even modded a hood to have air blow on the inside of the lense on those days when the breath condenses and makes it hard to see ,also good on really hot days and it gets hot here.Try welding in all the gear in 42c temp,not nice cheers Ross
Started with MIG back in 1995-ish with a non-darkening fixed lens. It didn't even have the little "mailslot" flip up. Fast forward to 2009 or so and I bought myself a Lincoln Precision TIG 225 machine and a Lincoln Vista 3000, I think this was before the Viking line you have was introduced. It has an auto darkening lens with a huge viewing area. Occasionally the helmet will flip down on me and slams into my clavicle. Other than that it's been fine. The harbor freight one is junk and there's a Kobalt one sold at Lowes that is decent. I've also used a Snap On branded one that had a green lens which was the only one I've used with that color, most seem amber/orange.
Using a darker shade helps the puddle stand out for me vs the base metal. I don't do much of anything larger than 60 thousandths though so not a lot of current being used.
Huntsman 490 by far the most popular for boilermakers in my area. Slider lens lets you get in tight areas and be able to weld and grind with only your hood.
My favorite lens is the ArcOne lens. My last one lasted 15 years. It works great and requires no batteries. It's the best auto darkening lens I've found by far.
You have the most excellent information. I don't wear glasses but a 1.5 cheapo dollar store pair of reading glasses makes the puddle much easier to see. I remember having trouble seeing the puddle and work piece when first starting out. I think a lot of that is just experience. The more you practice the more you see. There's a lot to get use to and learn when starting. Practicing every day for a couple months will get someone where they want to be. Trying to weld every once in a while just won't produce consistency. I have the Lincoln 3350 and I couldn't be more satisfied with it
Jody, you are a national treasure for anyone wanting to learn to weld. Make that an international treasure!!! I am 66 years old and am trying to learn new things and better technique. About 45 years ago, I worked as a tractor-trailer mechanic an did some stick welding occasionally, but I never had a decent chance to learn proper methods. Now, in retirement I'm taking lessons from you and having a blast. However, being 66 and having a ton of astigmatism (glare really bothers me), I'm seeing that I'm not seeing really well and I'm going to try some different things to compensate. I see that there are 317 comments at this date, so I must not be alone!Thanks again for all you do to help others!
I recently got a 3M speedglas 9100 its the recent model, and in my opinion one of the best helmets Ive used
Looks like someone killed your audio starting at 18:18 to the end.
I would have preferred to see more reviews of helmets that are currently available, and not the antiques. It doesn't matter how great they were if you can't buy one now.
Why do most modern welding helmets have to come with stupid looking flames or graphics on them? A welding professional wants a top performing helmet with quality features - not something full of stickers that make everyone think he is an adolescent trying to be cool.
It's so one can distinguish there hood from somebody else's easily.
My mate bought me a cheap NZD$70 auto darkening welding helmet for my birthday, yes, complete with flames all over it, and it was absolute crap, it would even self adjust by going lighter to the point you were almost blinded and then going dark to the point that you just couldn't see, all during the course of a weld. I lashed out NZD$680 odd on a 3M Speedglas 9100XXi welding
helmet and never looked back. Best welding helmet I've ever owned!
I like the antiques, or at least these ones because they're interesting. I had no idea there was helmets with the flip down actuated by the chin or by a puff of air.
I use an old pipeliner hood for almost everything. They are robust, always work, and they are a lot more heat resistant than most others. As someone with a very short focal length on my eyes, being able to get in close to the puddle is important. I still use the ratchet strap, but i have swapped the tensioner knobs for some big bolts to help make sure that they don't come loose.
That Optrel hat-thing looks sort of terrible, except when crawling around under a car trying to weld exhaust or something. It's infuriating resting your head on the damn adjuster on a normal helmet and losing out on vertical space.
I imported from the UK the actual Balder (slovenia) version of the jackson Balder bh3 wh70 you guys get in the states and Jody shows in this video. It looks like the headgear might be a little different on the Jackson version. I really really like the headgear on this helmet (Balder version) its lite and the actuation and way it pivots down is the best I have used. The only thing I dont like about this helmet is the two sensors and the sensitivity dial.... I do find myself either knocking that dial somehow and it backs off sensitivity and flashes me or certain positions it just doesnt work well if they fix that I do think it will be the best helmet you can get just about... I also think the Miller elite and the latest Lincoln helmets are very good. I do prefer the blueish tint colour on the Balder though its just really nice.
I've been welding for a mechanical company for about 2 1/2 years now mostly stick and some tig pipe. I try to get lower cost helmets so it's not such a big deal if one gets stolen or smashed. I have had the northern tool helmet, Miller classic, Miller digital infinity I only pull out for long tig jobs and the 1740 entry level Lincoln viking. I would pick the northern tool or the Lincoln over ether of the Miller's. The infinity is way to front heavy, won't stay up, and had to add a second sweat band to get it to tighten on my head. And the much cheaper Viking still had it beat for clarity. As far as the Miller classic, it would not stay snapped together I was constantly cleaning behind the clear front lense and the auto dark. Miller has some great products, but not their welding helmets
I like my Viking 3350 as well, it's seamlessly fast, first thing i look for in a helmet and i like the battery backup so its ready to go whether the caps are charged or not. Viewing area is amazing and helps me be at my best. Being a we bit front heavy with the big lense took a little getting used to but now i don't even notice that. Lovin the large fast lense.
I see this was posted over 7 years ago. Technology is rapidly changing, which begs the question what is your favorite helmet you use now? On another note, interesting you welded on aircraft. That’s how I got started welding 50 years ago by the teaching of my dad.
i have the adflo 9100xxi and the latest Jackson airmax,,i have been speedglas through and through till now..the jackson is the best ive used
I'd like to know what you think ...sound cuts out.
imovie was not working with me last night. I would have reloaded the video but couldnt get it fixed.
What I said at the end was " what is your favorite helmet? and do you have any tips for seeing the puddle better?"
weldingtipsandtricks Clean lenses, low shade, extra light
I think people generally believe that the darker the lens, the more protection they have.
It's not true you have the same protection at all shades.
I find that I can see it better if I use the adjustable shade auto lens and turn it down in the 9-10 range.
Any helmet and lens is better than the TV fools squinting and squirting.
My problem is keeping the headgear on my head, I can tighten it down until I have a headache, but it still slips off.
weldingtipsandtricks I have trained a lot of first time welders and all at the beginning say "how do you see where you're going". I found the best way is just to run a pad of beads like you often say and they learn to not focus so much on the light. It just seems to be something that needs to be learned. oh and of course a clean lense
12345NoNamesLeft I dont know about that, try running some 1/ 4 inch 7024 at 400 amps with a number ten lense for a week and you could be in a world of hurt. Or try some carbon arc gouging with 3/8ths carbon with anything less than a number 12.
Looking just ahead of the puddle helps a bit.
I started on a passive Jackson Shadow with a #10 green glass lens. Then after getting that down I got a NexGen lens for it and have used that for 10 years now. If that dies then I'll probably get a Miller Digital Elite. I'm currently trying out a pair of Servore auto Weld goggles the Arc-513. I figure they will be handy in tight spots. My heart still longs for a pipeliner's hood just because.
My two go to helmets are my rhino auto darkening shield and a Jackson eqc professional I mostly use my rhino helmet for tig and light duty mig and my Jackson for stick and dual shielded flux core. Both are great helmets I would suggest getting a rhino helmet before the price goes up more.
I'm very new to welding. I've been teaching myself for a year or so and will be starting school this fall. If anybody has a good helmet I could buy for cheap I would greatly appreciate it! I have a harbor freight auto darkener but it pretty crappy. Thanks to everyone who has helped me with there comments and everyone who makes these awesome videos!
I've got a new speedglas and just started using a magnifier (I'm 51). Sure it helps a lot but field welding it's fun. Have to keep your head at the right distance.(sometimes impossible to do) So now that they have the auto tint figured out, they need to work on auto focus.
Bob Pelton i rather like that idea...
I'm still using Speedglas 9000x vent helmet working great all these years
I love the weldcap, love the BH3, love the vulcanized fiber Huntsman with a Lincoln 4c auto dark fixed shade. Can't decide what I wanna buy next.
Huntsman, Jackson, Hobo Freight, Kobalt... I've been through a few.. LOL 😎 😂🤣
Best one I ever had was a Jackson with the big lense. The whole center section of the helmet lifted separate from the rest.. a little heavier, but an Awesome helmet!!!
The local tool store has an auto darken lense, I drooled over it for a couple of years, just couldn't justify $99.99 at the time.
I finally bought it! It was the icing on the cake!!! Cleared to about a 1, green... Easy to see through.
Darkened to a 10. Field of view was decent size.
After about ten years, it flashed me!!!!! The manufacturer had a 100% lifetime warranty, unfortunately, mine out lived the 180 year old company 😪
Seems they should have used a little bigger wires in it. Over time, expansion and contraction would break the wires.
Sadly, that one product was so popular, and they honored their warranty...all the way to bankruptcy. They closed the doors two months before mine failed.
It beat anything I've seen since!!!
Cheap Hobo Freight are just that.. the black make it about a year, the black with the blue stickers almost two years... I got four years out of their fancier red helmet.
Currently using a $60?$80?? Kobalt.. three years so far..
I know this is an older video, but still good!! And a great topic!! thanks for the video!
Had a Miller elite and loved it. Eventually sold it for 30 bucks lol. Use a Hobart knockdown now and it works great and is cheap to maintain. Would love to invest in another Miller eventually though.
Jody, I just finished watching you Video on Helmets, I had asked the question about seeing the puddle/an being able to see where your welding also. Thanks for the informative Video. I have been experimenting w/ the glasses, an presently not using an Auto-darkening, (using one for tack welds only) seams like I'm starting to be heading in the right direction.
Thanks again an enjoy your Videos
Ken
Ken Courtright Thanks for posting the original question. A lot of folks have weighed in with some good information ,best, jody
That's a really good tip about some auto-dark sensors not being able to pick up a TIG flash fast enough. I do mostly mig and a little stick welding on AC and DC, but if I ever try TIG I'll be especially cautious.
Auto dark is for school kids. I been running a Jackson with a modified head gear and a gold passive lens for 13 years and the only one getting flashed is the genius standing next to me with his auto dark up cause he don't realize I'm about to strike. I struck and flip at the same time. Btw.. Gold is amazing! hard to find these days tho. Auto dark green gives me a gnarly head ache. I've heard good things about the Jackson True Sight amber.. but I'm not spending a couple hundo on a lens! Head gear.. get some sheep skin for your forehead.. it helps so much with numbness. Otherwise.. it's trial and error to get what you like. My hood stays on my head without moving around, but it's not even that tight, I can wear it 14 hours without discomfort. Took me years to get that figured out tho!
I have one of those Speedglas helmets. It has just died after 30 years. I don't think the last 10 years living in a damp, cold garage has done it any favours though. Bloody good lid though, cost me 2 weeks wages when I bought it.
Before that I had a chin operated visor. But the green lense was on the inside and rotated through 90 degrees. It was a little fiddly to set up, but when it was working right it was brilliant. Open mouth to flick the lense to clear, then open mouth again to flick lense to closed position.
It has been a lot of years since I welded anything so I don't know much about the new tech stuff. The best thing I ever tried was going to the gold lens. At the time, my eyes were fine and I didn't need glasses. Switching to gold made a major difference in how I viewed the puddle. My problem was that I needed a much lower # lens then what was recommended. I used a # 7 for everything mainly because I only had one hood. Maybe that's why I need glasses today.
Id take a pipeliner with a sellstrom flip front anyday.
The only time ever chosen an auto tint is when welding expanded metal. Ill admit, it saved me alot of time...other than that. The pipeliner is simply bullet proof.
I have a leather welding cap. Manual flip works great keeps me from getting burned on my head without a cap.
Ive used a lincoln electric standard dark, recently burned the stuffs out of my eyes trying to cheat a peek under my hood for quick tacks. LE viking sounds like a common solution. I was learned old school without the auto or flip screen. Trying to adjust to maybe something with more coverage or an easier peeking option. My second thought was to go for the huntsman.
All good looking hoods brother
I just got a Lincoln Viking 3350 hood on Saturday! I can’t wait to start using it
how did you like it i was debating on the 3350 and a hf vulcan
I have a speedglas 100 series with the variable shades 8 through 12 and I love it even though I have really used it once so far.
Just bought an esab sentinel a 50 and love it. Very comfortable headgear.
Not that I have a lot of hood time but one shop I worked at had a light a just the right angle over my bench that gave me glare on the inside of my lens making it almost impossible to see the puddle. I made a hood for the back of the helmet that helped a ton.
And now you know the reason for pipeliner's liking the pancake hoods.
i have an auto dark helmet with a solar panel charger, got flash a few times since it died but over all fits good and works great i can see everything not many problems but since i’m just getting into welding my father wanted me to start with that and it’s a great beginner helmet ( make sure it’s fully charged haha )
i've got two old speedglas XL hoods. still work well .
I have had and still using the Jackson NexGen rig going on 8 years now. I weld on Aluminum tankers and bulkmatic equipment. It has fallen off of countless 18 wheeler trailers. It has out lived 3 sets of head gear and one hood. Tig, Mig and Stick it has not let me down.. I paid around $320 for it back in early 2006 and plan on purchasing another when this one fails.. but there is no sign she will be letting me down anytime soon!!!
P.S. The light weight hoods that are sold with the lens are not worth 10 cents if you are going to be using it in more of an industrial setting.. I replaced mine with the regular Jackson hood much like the shadow and just swapped the lenses. Its a little heavy but it makes for ahelluva nice helmet.
The welding mask is great for mechanics trying to weld under a car. The mask is much smaller and enables you to get your head closer to your work where your helmet doesn't fit
As An Old School Welder, #10 Lens is best.
Great review. Love the helmet museum wall. My old Jackson Shadow professional was retired 4 years ago for a Snappy truck special, ( not Officially Snap On) it workes fine, but the Viking or Miller Infinity look like a huge step up. Had a original Speed glass, sad to say took a dirt nap many years back. wich hood is better a Viking or Infinity?
The jackson shadow and viking 3350 were my first 2 helmets and only helmets! I love em
I've got a Jackson Shadow, which I would also reccomend. I have an Auto-Arc auto darkening helmet that I use on bigger more "weld and grind and keep going" type of jobs. Not because I think it's better or more capable, but more of I know it IS capable and I won't get flashed. I like them both and I think they each have their purpose.
I have a Jackson Shadow. When I converted it to auto darkening the OEM wire retainer wouldn’t work with the thicker lens. Four 7/16” window screen retainers keep the new lens in place and make it easier to to clean/replace all of the lenses.
Bought a speed glass auto darkening with flip up lens goes from 5 to 12. 3×4 veiwing lens. and a almost full face grinding sheild when welding lens is flipped up. awsome head gear. can also be used with adflow filtering system. only draw back is i have to buy my own protective lenes , not like pipeliner helmets where every body has those smaller protective lenes.
ThankQ for the gr8 info, Iam a Aluminum boat welder i use MIG Pulsed machine i want to invest in a helmet with a PAPR system so what do u recommend
Great video. I'm kind of stuck to my pipeliner hood as my go to for pretty much everything but I do have quite the collection of others that I use here and there. I want to get somthing good for some confined space welding. You showed one in a video a while back, I think when you were at fab tech, and it looking pretty good but I can't remember the name or find the video. I think it was a white color. Let me know if you do remember what I'm referring too. And for some reason the audio cut out at the end of video. But anyway awesome video as usual. If you do happen to remember the helmet I'm talking about, please let me know. Thanks again!
I use a 3350 for Aerospace welding
very good for small welding
i never go beyond 30amps and mostly use 7 amps
Please do root pass on schedule 40 pipe and or 1/4 inch plate. Schedule 80 in both is easier to control heat. Any tips and tricks on that would be great.
Gold lense I like the color change it provides of the weld arc. But have bought another helmet that auto and havent gone back to my gold lense. I despise auto. But after a few yrs with it and going back to fix breifly, i cant stand fixed. Especially arc welding.
Gracias por compartir tus maravillosos vídeos aprendo mucho de esos maravillosos vídeos Saludos desde Colombia