You've sold me on Toyota's...so... I picked up a well maintained 2nd gen. I know the process is different but I'm actually looking forward to doing this, Thx.
It's good to know that someone sells whole bearing assemblies for Toyotas. BTW, it's always a good idea to put some "Never-seize" on the shaft splines before installing a new bearing hub. Bearing grease can also be used of nothing else is available. I also like to use "Fluid Film" on bare metal exposed to water, road salt etc. Also, get a brass hammer to avoid accidental damage to steel parts you are working on.
Nice , anyone who is thinking about doing what you guys are doing ( or wants to save money on maintenance costs ) need to watch your how to videos . Nice thing about Toyota is you don't need a bunch of specialized tools to fix most anything mechanical. Saves you a lot of money and gives you a better understanding of your vehicle. Keep up the great videos. Happy Trails :-)
Thank you, excellent video - the M8-x1.25 machine screw trick to separate the rotor from hub was a lifesaver on my 100k mile Tacoma. Now I understand why Toyota spec in those two threaded holes. Jeff~
Fantastic tutorial, thank you so much for taking the time to make it! I just used your video to swap the wheel bearing on my Tacoma, and they were spot on.
Well, I don't need to this to my 5th gen with 40K miles, but I saw the entire video because of how informative and detailed it was. I love these 4runner maintenance videos, makes me feel more comfortable at trying to do some maintenance myself. Thank you!!!
Great video, quick tip from a mechanic try freeing the axle in the hub assembly before resorting to the old cold chisel or screwdriver. And please don't hammer anything threaded
Great video. I wanted to make one point. You mentioned removing the brake dust shield. As for our 4-Runner, I am not sure, but I can assure you cannot do this without replacing it with a piece of metal to fill the gap. You will not be able to completely tighten the bearing to the housing. I tried unintentionally and found there will be a gap when you attempt to tighten it down. I finally figured out with the assistance.of your video, and that feeling something was not right, that I was missing the brake dust shield.
Another excellent tutorial video. It's wise to put the highest quality parts, especially in your running gear. I think prebuilt wheel assemblies is smart, makes the process simple and you save a ton of money doing it yourself.
Thanks for your videos Kevin. I watch them all and it is very inspiring for me to see all that your family travels reveal. I just bought a new gen 5 and it is the 4 th 4runner I have owned. I am building a true off road rig adding all that i need for overland travel. I saw you guys at the Expo in Flagstaff a couple of weeks ago. Thanks for providing inspiration to an old car camper guy.
Kevin, appreciate these vids. Thanks for taking the time to do such an in depth tutorial on this process. Gonna order a set of these Bearings and keep them until I need them.
ATG highly recommend on getting it from Andy because Brutus protects the inventory to make sure you have it, The price may be high, if you think of it. But the fact is you actually save the money on doing it yourself. ATG says 96% of the repair shops use the cheapest part (s) available from local part stores.
Great video!, I’m surprised you still have the stock cv boots. You might think about spraying the whole undercarriage with fluid film to prevent rust and corrosion
Yeah, if you want some pointers, look at this Harvard grad's video: ruclips.net/video/dewOEscrpx8/видео.html (Is it better to replace just the CV boot, or the entire axle?).
Know I'm late to the party here but if you don't have a FluidFilm sponsorship (that stuff gets expensive!!!) You can buy a bunch of lanolin, walk it back with an eco-friendly thinner to liquify, and apply with any kind of sprayer (I've even used a pump up garden sprayer!) Makes a few hundred dollar job into a 50$ job. Much better than using used motor oil , the environment (and your mechanic!) will thank you - I hate dealing with customer cars that come in caked with 10 years of used motor oil undercoating, clogged with 100lbs of road dust, dirt and debris. Sure, nothing is rusted, but getting to bolts, electrical or fittings is a messy, annoying PITA.
How would you rate blue pit bearings now that you’ve had it on for almost a year? I’m looking to replace mine soon from all the humming noise I hear when turning at high speeds
Excellent clear and concise video, Kevin! Filming was great and I appreciate all the detail you went into. Much better than some of the other videos on You Tube. This will save me a lot of money in the future not having to hire a mechanic. I think I need to add a few tools to my mobile took kit :-)
Torquing those mounting bolts with a "special extender and a crow's foot[...]". Haha! I'm sure we'll all be doing that. :D Thanks for the clear and concise video.
This is a must know how! Great reason to carry some real long zip ties so you can zip tie the caliper up out of the way. Also, how to change CV shafts on the trail. ALWAYS USE A TOYOTA CV shaft. The junk ones you buy at auto parts store are crap. Also, for any of y’all that lift 3” or higher, while you are lifting just go ahead and replace the needle bearing while you have it torn apart. Also for any Toyota IFS, really any IFS people, always carry some sort of rag and tape, or a dust cap of sort in your tool bag for capping off the front case in the event you have a CV shaft failure and need to pull it. It will be the difference in you getting off the trail or not. Great video Kevin!
Lifestyle Overland yea with as many miles as you have and the amount being off road and lifted, I bet it is close to time. If you can, film one CV change in the garage, then maybe film one on a “trail” to show some folks round here how to trail change one.
Great video Kevin, I've owned toyota truck 4x4 in the past and thinking about getting and 4Runner as possible alternate to a Jeep Liberty, this tech video is great Kevin and I'll keep in mind as a reference.... thanks
Do you recommend replacing the Seal, Inner Oil (PN: 90316-A0001), which mates between the CV Joint Stub and the back side of the steering knuckle when performing this repair? Also, the O-Ring (PN: 90301-A0005)? I think the O-ring goes somewhere between the bearing assembly and the dust cover. These two parts are listed on the exploded diagram.
Nice. Your assembly came with the oring. Mine did not. Thankfully RockAuto is sending me one with no fuss, but I wish I'd noticed it wasn't on my assembly before I tore everything down.
Someday I hope someone goes through all the videos out there and edits all the how to clips together actually citing proper factory torque specs. Now that would be gold, gold I tell ya.
Got a link to your tool pouch and what do you carry when on the road? Thanks for the link to the bearings! My overlanding rig, a Toyota Tacoma 2007 with 101k miles will be getting a new set of bearings soon. I will tell Blue Pit you sent me :) Love the video!
I did this about 6 months ago on my 2011 Nissan Pathfinder. Process is identical. It makes zero sense to pull the sealed bearing assemblies apart. Mine were only about $100 each for OEM grade. Soaking the spline after you remove the nut, can be a big help if the bearing assembly is stubborn. For mating flat surfaces. I like the backing plate and rear of the bearing housing, I always like to take a fine file and make sure all surfaces are nice, flat and clean. I'm a bit anal about this stuff. You did nothing wrong...it is just my way of turning a 60 min job into a 2 hr job. :-)
Great viedo, but heres my tip use "both" hands never only one. Put your hands on 6 and 12 o'clock also do 9 and 3 o'clock check if wheel bearing going to move? If it is then change it. Remember use both your hands.👐🤙
Where would I find factory torque specs for tightening the bolts including the axle bolts on my 2011 4runner? First time doing this. Don't want to screw it up...
Rotated my tires. Noticed more wander, and vibration. Had tires balanced, but still getting some wander, and bumpy feedback to the steering wheel. I'm running larger tires and wheels BF goodrich and my runner has 110000 mile on it. Could it be bearings or control arm?
What is in your tool kit? I have a 18' tacoma myself Im working on getting setup and someone thats worked on them what is the common socket sizes (short/deepwell) any torx or triple square...etc. Also... does toyota offer a hub replacement?
Awesome video mate! Many Thanks! One question - why did you clean the grease from the inner space before installing the new hub. I would have thought you'd have repacked grease there. Respectfully - Moi
Felicidades desde Barcelona España hacéis aquello que nos gustaría hacer a nosotros.felicidaded. pero no entiendo inglés por lo que sería interesante tuviera subtítulos en español. Un abrazo
Hey! Is your 4Runner only rear wheel drive? Blue Pit Bearings says: "...we make complete bolt-on front wheel hub bearing assemblies for BOTH the 4x4 and the 4x2..." Also, when visiting their website and selecting "4Runner", the TZK version says: "2003-2022 Toyota 4Runner 4x2 TZK HUB/KOYO BEARING" So, if my 4Runner is a selectable 4WD, will this work? Awesome video! Sub'd!
No! Axle spline would need to come through. As of August 2023 Bluepit wants $300 for 4x4 and $360 for 4x2. I can buy a press and all the same pieces for 1 side under that and end up with a press I can sell on ebay? Anyone know another website?
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One of the best tutorials I’ve seen, easy to follow, easy to understand! 10/10
You've sold me on Toyota's...so... I picked up a well maintained 2nd gen. I know the process is different but I'm actually looking forward to doing this, Thx.
My 8yr old son and I watch your videos and we love them!
Thank you for keeping your videos clean and family-friendly!
God bless you and your family!
It's good to know that someone sells whole bearing assemblies for Toyotas.
BTW, it's always a good idea to put some "Never-seize" on the shaft splines before installing a new bearing hub. Bearing grease can also be used of nothing else is available. I also like to use "Fluid Film" on bare metal exposed to water, road salt etc.
Also, get a brass hammer to avoid accidental damage to steel parts you are working on.
The anti-seize is a great idea! Yeah, I need a different hammer but was working from my travel tools in a borrowed garage 👍
Good to see you used KOYO bearings. Blue pit assemblies really are the best option!
Nice , anyone who is thinking about doing what you guys are doing ( or wants to save money on maintenance costs ) need to watch your how to videos . Nice thing about Toyota is you don't need a bunch of specialized tools to fix most anything mechanical. Saves you a lot of money and gives you a better understanding of your vehicle. Keep up the great videos.
Happy Trails :-)
Mike Kuczynski basically just need a 10 MM and you can take apart any Toyota 🤣
I can’t thank you enough! This is so well done and easy to follow. Thank you brother.
Thank you, excellent video - the M8-x1.25 machine screw trick to separate the rotor from hub was a lifesaver on my 100k mile Tacoma. Now I understand why Toyota spec in those two threaded holes. Jeff~
Fantastic tutorial, thank you so much for taking the time to make it! I just used your video to swap the wheel bearing on my Tacoma, and they were spot on.
Yup, anti seize is your best friend and facilitates easy removal in the future. I use it all the time and swear by it. Great video.
Well, I don't need to this to my 5th gen with 40K miles, but I saw the entire video because of how informative and detailed it was. I love these 4runner maintenance videos, makes me feel more comfortable at trying to do some maintenance myself. Thank you!!!
Great video, quick tip from a mechanic try freeing the axle in the hub assembly before resorting to the old cold chisel or screwdriver.
And please don't hammer anything threaded
It would have been interesting to see the wear and tear on the bearings. Great video and easy to see and follow!
Don’t own a Toyota but still enjoy the how to videos.
Great video. I wanted to make one point. You mentioned removing the brake dust shield. As for our 4-Runner, I am not sure, but I can assure you cannot do this without replacing it with a piece of metal to fill the gap. You will not be able to completely tighten the bearing to the housing.
I tried unintentionally and found there will be a gap when you attempt to tighten it down. I finally figured out with the assistance.of your video, and that feeling something was not right, that I was missing the brake dust shield.
I meant to add this cannot be done on my 09 Sr5 TRD offroad Tundra.
Your truck is so clean. Usually these rust out pretty bad. The whole hub was junk on my Hilux at less than 100k miles.
Another excellent tutorial video. It's wise to put the highest quality parts, especially in your running gear. I think prebuilt wheel assemblies is smart, makes the process simple and you save a ton of money doing it yourself.
awesome job buddy, come say hi the next time you roll through ABQ
Great choice on the vehicle you drive and great choice of parts👍
Thanks for your videos Kevin. I watch them all and it is very inspiring for me to see all that your family travels reveal. I just bought a new gen 5 and it is the 4 th 4runner I have owned. I am building a true off road rig adding all that i need for overland travel. I saw you guys at the Expo in Flagstaff a couple of weeks ago. Thanks for providing inspiration to an old car camper guy.
Awesome tutorial!!! Much needed and even more appreciated!!!! Thanx!
Glad it was helpful!
Kevin, appreciate these vids. Thanks for taking the time to do such an in depth tutorial on this process. Gonna order a set of these Bearings and keep them until I need them.
Will be tackling this next week. Thanks to this video!
ATG highly recommend on getting it from Andy because Brutus protects the inventory to make sure you have it,
The price may be high, if you think of it.
But the fact is you actually save the money on doing it yourself.
ATG says 96% of the repair shops use the cheapest part (s) available from local part stores.
17mm caliper 91ft/lb, 17mm hub 59 ft/lb 35mm hub 173 ft/lb
Great tutorial! Simple and straight to the point! 👍
Anti-seize and fluid film are your friends when re assembling.
That is what I call a well made up tutorial
The quality of all your videos are 👍🏼sir!
Thanks, Paul! We do our best 👍
Awesome How-To video!!! Good to know that you can purchase whole bearing assembly with the hub. Thanks
Great video. What size are your tires and do you have a lift kit installed?
Very interesting. Did not know they made that product. Nicely done.
Thanks for the video, very informative. How are the bearings holding up so far?
Rock solid 👍
Great video. Consider adding a dead blow hammer to your tool kit...
Great video!, I’m surprised you still have the stock cv boots.
You might think about spraying the whole undercarriage with fluid film to prevent rust and corrosion
Would have been an opportunistic time to change out the axles also
Yeah, if you want some pointers, look at this Harvard grad's video: ruclips.net/video/dewOEscrpx8/видео.html (Is it better to replace just the CV boot, or the entire axle?).
Know I'm late to the party here but if you don't have a FluidFilm sponsorship (that stuff gets expensive!!!) You can buy a bunch of lanolin, walk it back with an eco-friendly thinner to liquify, and apply with any kind of sprayer (I've even used a pump up garden sprayer!) Makes a few hundred dollar job into a 50$ job. Much better than using used motor oil , the environment (and your mechanic!) will thank you - I hate dealing with customer cars that come in caked with 10 years of used motor oil undercoating, clogged with 100lbs of road dust, dirt and debris. Sure, nothing is rusted, but getting to bolts, electrical or fittings is a messy, annoying PITA.
Another great video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and about bearing replacement part alternatives that save time!
Hey, great video and tutorial. Curious if you went with the Bluepit full OEM or the Bluepit Dorman/Koyo bearing one?
How would you rate blue pit bearings now that you’ve had it on for almost a year? I’m looking to replace mine soon from all the humming noise I hear when turning at high speeds
Excellent clear and concise video, Kevin! Filming was great and I appreciate all the detail you went into. Much better than some of the other videos on You Tube. This will save me a lot of money in the future not having to hire a mechanic. I think I need to add a few tools to my mobile took kit :-)
Torquing those mounting bolts with a "special extender and a crow's foot[...]". Haha! I'm sure we'll all be doing that. :D Thanks for the clear and concise video.
I'm sure we will... 😉🔧
Genuinely cool intro
This is a must know how! Great reason to carry some real long zip ties so you can zip tie the caliper up out of the way.
Also, how to change CV shafts on the trail. ALWAYS USE A TOYOTA CV shaft. The junk ones you buy at auto parts store are crap. Also, for any of y’all that lift 3” or higher, while you are lifting just go ahead and replace the needle bearing while you have it torn apart.
Also for any Toyota IFS, really any IFS people, always carry some sort of rag and tape, or a dust cap of sort in your tool bag for capping off the front case in the event you have a CV shaft failure and need to pull it. It will be the difference in you getting off the trail or not.
Great video Kevin!
Thanks! I'm sure we're not too far away from CVs as well. I'll have to put that on the to-do list.
Lifestyle Overland yea with as many miles as you have and the amount being off road and lifted, I bet it is close to time. If you can, film one CV change in the garage, then maybe film one on a “trail” to show some folks round here how to trail change one.
That's a great idea! 👍
Awesome how to, keep it up and safe travels.
Great video Kevin, I've owned toyota truck 4x4 in the past and thinking about getting and 4Runner as possible alternate to a Jeep Liberty, this tech video is great Kevin and I'll keep in mind as a reference.... thanks
Do you recommend replacing the Seal, Inner Oil (PN: 90316-A0001), which mates between the CV Joint Stub and the back side of the steering knuckle when performing this repair? Also, the O-Ring (PN: 90301-A0005)? I think the O-ring goes somewhere between the bearing assembly and the dust cover. These two parts are listed on the exploded diagram.
Yes 100% do both
When you order that part from that website does one quantity come with a set for both sides or do i have to order both individually
thank you for these videos, a life saver
Did you uses OEM assembly and bearing. Or the Dorman assembly and OEM bearings.
When tightening the mounting bolts how did you torque them? Looks like you couldn’t get a socket in there
There are special tools are there for adapting torque wrenches. Truthfully, I know about how much to give it by hand.
Nice. Your assembly came with the oring. Mine did not. Thankfully RockAuto is sending me one with no fuss, but I wish I'd noticed it wasn't on my assembly before I tore everything down.
Thank you for the good video 💸💪💪💪
"...Install to the factory torque specs" ....Right 😂
Torque wrench goes UNGA DUNGA 😂
@@counslorbhd Looks like the spec is about 5 seconds of ugga duggas.
If you're used to Imperial measurements, 5 metric unga dungas is 203ft-lbs.
Someday I hope someone goes through all the videos out there and edits all the how to clips together actually citing proper factory torque specs. Now that would be gold, gold I tell ya.
Got a link to your tool pouch and what do you carry when on the road? Thanks for the link to the bearings! My overlanding rig, a Toyota Tacoma 2007 with 101k miles will be getting a new set of bearings soon. I will tell Blue Pit you sent me :) Love the video!
Full-on tool kit walk through coming soon!
Video well done. What! No bearing/axle grease on the spine shaft?
I did this about 6 months ago on my 2011 Nissan Pathfinder. Process is identical. It makes zero sense to pull the sealed bearing assemblies apart. Mine were only about $100 each for OEM grade.
Soaking the spline after you remove the nut, can be a big help if the bearing assembly is stubborn.
For mating flat surfaces. I like the backing plate and rear of the bearing housing, I always like to take a fine file and make sure all surfaces are nice, flat and clean. I'm a bit anal about this stuff. You did nothing wrong...it is just my way of turning a 60 min job into a 2 hr job. :-)
Can you tell me what the tourque specs are on the castle nut
Thanks for a great video. I run the same stealth wheels. Are you running the spline lug nuts or normal hex lug nuts?
Great viedo, but heres my tip use "both" hands never only one. Put your hands on 6 and 12 o'clock also do 9 and 3 o'clock check if wheel bearing going to move? If it is then change it. Remember use both your hands.👐🤙
There are wheel bearing remover kit which makes removing the bearings from the hub pretty easy
Excellent.
From bluepitbearings did you go with the Dorman/Koyo assembly or the OEM one?
Where would I find factory torque specs for tightening the bolts including the axle bolts on my 2011 4runner? First time doing this. Don't want to screw it up...
Rotated my tires. Noticed more wander, and vibration. Had tires balanced, but still getting some wander, and bumpy feedback to the steering wheel. I'm running larger tires and wheels BF goodrich and my runner has 110000 mile on it. Could it be bearings or control arm?
What is in your tool kit? I have a 18' tacoma myself Im working on getting setup and someone thats worked on them what is the common socket sizes (short/deepwell) any torx or triple square...etc.
Also... does toyota offer a hub replacement?
Great informative video. 👍😎
Any issues two years later?
Nope, going strong!
Awesome video mate! Many Thanks! One question - why did you clean the grease from the inner space before installing the new hub. I would have thought you'd have repacked grease there. Respectfully - Moi
Does anyone know if you're able to remove a Wheel Stud, and Insert a new one without obstructions like the dust shield ?
“Always torque to factory specs”... Unleashes impact🤪😂🧐
😈🤘 haha! But honestly, that impact was running pretty low pressure and didn't come close to the real torque needed. 👍 #doasisaynotasido 🤣
Mention the torque settings several times but never gives the pound ft' ...
Can you send a link to the special adpater to torque the nuts behind the hub plate?
crows foot
Good job
thanks for a great video.
A year late, but no need to add grease to the axle before you place the new assemby on?
Love it man!
What size socket was the hub?
Nice job. Those Blue Pit bearing hubs look like the way to go. Were the original bearings also sealed?
They made it super easy for sure. Yes, the factory bearings are sealed too.
useful!!! Thanks for sharing, Kevin~
What's your camera model?
Felicidades desde Barcelona España hacéis aquello que nos gustaría hacer a nosotros.felicidaded. pero no entiendo inglés por lo que sería interesante tuviera subtítulos en español. Un abrazo
Subscribe plz
The central hub nut, are the Toyota vehicles listed the same 35mm socket?
Tundra are 39mm 12 point
So what are best brakes for 5th gen 4runner?
OEM Toyota
What are the tourque specs?
At 2:30. Consider a breaker bar in your garage tool kit.
Torque axle nut to factory specs (uga duga uga duga uga duga) 😂🙌🏻
hey kevin, you didn't have to pack the bearing with grease? do those bearing need grease or come prepacked?
Sealed bearings or "permanently lubricated". That is, until they wear out.
Hey! Is your 4Runner only rear wheel drive? Blue Pit Bearings says: "...we make complete bolt-on front wheel hub bearing assemblies for BOTH the 4x4 and the 4x2..."
Also, when visiting their website and selecting "4Runner", the TZK version says: "2003-2022 Toyota 4Runner 4x2 TZK HUB/KOYO BEARING"
So, if my 4Runner is a selectable 4WD, will this work?
Awesome video! Sub'd!
No! Axle spline would need to come through.
As of August 2023 Bluepit wants $300 for 4x4 and $360 for 4x2. I can buy a press and all the same pieces for 1 side under that and end up with a press I can sell on ebay?
Anyone know another website?
what was the size of the bolts that you used to take the rotor off with??
M8's with 1.25 pitch I believe
"and a fresh cotter pin" *installs old cotter pin* lol
What are the torque specs?
They don’t look to be prepacked with grease? Is there a grease fitting?
They're sealed bearings 👍
The handle for the floor Jack is a breaker bar..
It wouldn't fit this time around...
Any issues with these bearings so far??
Nope, about 9,000 miles on them now and still smooth as butter.
what are the torque specs
Is this the same for 3rd gen Tacoma or are they different?
Thomas Hospodar same 👍
Those axels look so clean for 130k
Ah yes, the hammer and wrench technique. I'm intimately familiar with that 😂
Axle nut to torque spec... 4 ugga ugga... gotcha. ;)
Didn't replace the steering knuckle seal... Would highly recommend to anyone wanting to make your bearings last longer.
What are the torque specs for that?
We intentionally left that out since it covers multiple models. You'll have to reference your vehicle specific manual. 👍
Hey mind doesn't have cv axal
You must have 2WD 👍