I like the way you play around with your equipment and all the other stuff. I can definitely tell you are having a lot of fun from it and I am also having as much fun watching it. Thank you so much for another great video Joe!
Thank you for the inspiration, Joe! I watched all of your videos on using the Harman paper. I'm going to give this a serious try in my newly acquired vintage 18x24 cm camera.
Another great video. Thanks! You could also try using nylon string attached to your tripod with something like a pencil on the end for selfie focusing.
I've preflashed the paper before in my darkroom. I haven't done so lately only because I'm experimenting with new techniques, want to refine my methods before I add preflashing back.
Joe, I don't think you mentioned an extension factor in your exposure explanation. I am uncertain what focal length your lens was, but if it was 135 mm or thereabouts the factor approaches 1/2 stop and I bet 2 seconds is right in the sweet spot of the reciprocity range so the Harmon paper might be a bit faster than ISO 8 in your studio with those lights. I might just use big electronic flashes in boxes and eliminate subject movement. I am sure you can get a shorter exposure using flashes. Way more investment and not what you were trying to show. A real cheap way could be window light and reflectors (and a fast lens). Great video. Harmon makes fine portraits.
Thank you Joe, for taking my ideas as non personal. Your channel seems to always have something new and interesting going on and I rate it my favorite one! It doesn't hurt that we share a few interests. "Don't forget the dark slide."
It was a fabric diffuser with white cloth in front. But the rear of the light is silver fabric, not nearly as efficient as the metal reflector light, which probably accounts for the difference. Oh, the bulb was 100watt incandescent instead of daylight LED.
Hi Joe, One small question, all my Harman Papers which I buy here in Europe are barreled (never flat before development). Did you have the same issue? How do you flatten it?
Yes, I have the same problem. I think it's caused by the manufacturing process, the emulsion shrinks slightly and pulls the paper toward the front. My film holders seem to keep it flat enough during exposure so it doesn't affect focus, and there's no problem with processing. For drying, after the final rinse I tape it face-up to a sheet of glass with artists/drafting tape along the edges, then let dry in a warm area (I use a home made drying cabinet). The paper comes out pretty flat after being taped down while drying.
Thanks, Joe, so it's not only my problem. Some time ago I found a way which helps but I'm not happy with the results. I cut two pieces of plywood, drilled 4 holes and used screws to screw the paper between them. It helps a bit but the paper is not flat anyway. I use film holder for 18x24 cm with 4x5 insert but insert has just 4 stops so sometimes my corners are broken. After final rinse I do the same.
I realized that. I also touch the back, and it was more papersish than the front in the darkness. SO, I selected well. I now need to find the way to develop the film, since I don't have a dark room, and my changing bag is too small.
Interesting thought. If the speed of the Harman paper is anything like tintypes, you'd need a powerful strobe system. I've seen videos of indoor studio tintypes, and they use things like Norman packs with 1000+ watts of power to get adequate illumination. The Harman paper is probably faster than that. Perhaps I'll give it a try one day. I do have a flash meter too, so maybe just some experiments with flash alone would give me a better idea. Thanks again for watching.
Klaus Tiburski, the ultimate solution would be to make an arc light. But the light from one if those is not very diffuse so you'd have to find some UV capable reflectors.
Helge Frisenette , interesting idea. But my aim was more towards a practical solution. I think that everybody who is into photography for a Long time has a whole lot of old speedlights lying around . I haven' t done the math yet, but I think it must be possible coming up with a usable array of , let us suggest 10 of them bundled together with a suggested GN of 250 ( based on Meter ) or 750 ( based on feet ) to illuminate Joe's Face without burning his eyebrows or his mancave shed down ;-)
+Joe Van Cleave Wow, can't wait to see what happens. If You're short on old speedlights, I 'd be glad to help out. Have a whole bunch of them lying around here.
![Shooting 20x24 Portraits With A Massive Camera & Unique “Instant” Process [Instant Shoots]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/l2XBu0WjeK4/mqdefault.jpg)
I like the way you play around with your equipment and all the other stuff. I can definitely tell you are having a lot of fun from it and I am also having as much fun watching it. Thank you so much for another great video Joe!
Really a clever way to take a selfie
Thanks for all the guidance, I'm trying HDP today!
Thank you for the inspiration, Joe! I watched all of your videos on using the Harman paper. I'm going to give this a serious try in my newly acquired vintage 18x24 cm camera.
Another great video. Thanks! You could also try using nylon string attached to your tripod with something like a pencil on the end for selfie focusing.
A small indoor tanning sun would be a good bet to get a lot of diffuse UV.
Great idea, thank you.
Awesome video. Thanks
Hi Joe. Fun video, thanks. Have you thought about 'pre-flashing' the Harman paper in-camera, using a standardized opaque cover over the lens?
I've preflashed the paper before in my darkroom. I haven't done so lately only because I'm experimenting with new techniques, want to refine my methods before I add preflashing back.
Joe, I don't think you mentioned an extension factor in your exposure explanation. I am uncertain what focal length your lens was, but if it was 135 mm or thereabouts the factor approaches 1/2 stop and I bet 2 seconds is right in the sweet spot of the reciprocity range so the Harmon paper might be a bit faster than ISO 8 in your studio with those lights. I might just use big electronic flashes in boxes and eliminate subject movement. I am sure you can get a shorter exposure using flashes. Way more investment and not what you were trying to show. A real cheap way could be window light and reflectors (and a fast lens). Great video. Harmon makes fine portraits.
Great points you make. I ignored bellows extension from the discussion so as not to complicate the video.
Thank you Joe, for taking my ideas as non personal. Your channel seems to always have something new and interesting going on and I rate it my favorite one! It doesn't hurt that we share a few interests. "Don't forget the dark slide."
Hi joe, do you have a link to where you buy the paper?
B&H has a Haramn FB Positive paper, is that the one? Hoping grab more than a 25 pack
This was very helpful. Thanks.
Thanks for the useful information. What was the "other" light source that was on the side of your face that was underexposed?
It was a fabric diffuser with white cloth in front. But the rear of the light is silver fabric, not nearly as efficient as the metal reflector light, which probably accounts for the difference. Oh, the bulb was 100watt incandescent instead of daylight LED.
Ok thanks. I may give an LED a try. I also plan to try out my electronic flash.
Hi Joe, One small question, all my Harman Papers which I buy here in Europe are barreled (never flat before development). Did you have the same issue? How do you flatten it?
Yes, I have the same problem. I think it's caused by the manufacturing process, the emulsion shrinks slightly and pulls the paper toward the front. My film holders seem to keep it flat enough during exposure so it doesn't affect focus, and there's no problem with processing. For drying, after the final rinse I tape it face-up to a sheet of glass with artists/drafting tape along the edges, then let dry in a warm area (I use a home made drying cabinet). The paper comes out pretty flat after being taped down while drying.
Thanks, Joe, so it's not only my problem. Some time ago I found a way which helps but I'm not happy with the results. I cut two pieces of plywood, drilled 4 holes and used screws to screw the paper between them. It helps a bit but the paper is not flat anyway. I use film holder for 18x24 cm with 4x5 insert but insert has just 4 stops so sometimes my corners are broken. After final rinse I do the same.
Try 1 million candella poacher lamp.....big handheld spot but focus like Fresnel?. Bounce?.
Very informative, thank you
Did you compensate your exposure for bellows draw?
Yes.
I have problem loading the paper in the holder. There is not marks on the edge. How do I know which part is the one with the emulsion?
The paper has a natural curl toward the front (emulsion) side.
I realized that. I also touch the back, and it was more papersish than the front in the darkness. SO, I selected well. I now need to find the way to develop the film, since I don't have a dark room, and my changing bag is too small.
How about bundling and using some Old speedlights ?
Interesting thought. If the speed of the Harman paper is anything like tintypes, you'd need a powerful strobe system. I've seen videos of indoor studio tintypes, and they use things like Norman packs with 1000+ watts of power to get adequate illumination. The Harman paper is probably faster than that. Perhaps I'll give it a try one day. I do have a flash meter too, so maybe just some experiments with flash alone would give me a better idea. Thanks again for watching.
Klaus Tiburski, the ultimate solution would be to make an arc light. But the light from one if those is not very diffuse so you'd have to find some UV capable reflectors.
Helge Frisenette ,
interesting idea. But my aim was more towards a practical solution. I think that everybody who is into photography for a Long time has a whole lot of old speedlights lying around . I haven' t done the math yet, but I think it must be possible coming up with a usable array of , let us suggest 10 of them bundled together with a suggested GN of 250 ( based on Meter ) or 750 ( based on feet ) to illuminate Joe's Face without burning his eyebrows or his mancave shed down ;-)
I think using flash with Harman paper is a subject for another video!
+Joe Van Cleave
Wow, can't wait to see what happens. If You're short on old speedlights, I 'd be glad to help out. Have a whole bunch of them lying around here.
'Anyway' isn't spelt with an 's'!! at least it wasn't when I went to school!!!