I have a 84 7.5 Johnson that gave me similar problems, but now works like a champ. I had oil/sludge in the bucket & same sludge as you see on the lower unit; plus found whitish foamy stuff inside the lower unit when I took i out: all this was caused by a leaking lower crank seal! Replaced the seal, all good and clean after that. Now about the carb linkage: you are on the right path. The only important things are: the distance between linkage journals (to ensure proper engagement of carb butterfly), and wire diameter (to ensure proper fit & no extra play). I have the dimensions of the "bent" OEM P/N 0330286 linkage: wire dia. =.125", distance between journal axis = 1.050". Hope it helps!
was watching your earlier vid to catch up so hopefully i can clear this up for ya': the 7.5 was powerhead rated, and was sold as a 6hp (basically the one you have) starting in 84' as prop-rated. if you want to make it 7.5-8hp, again, you will need the tighter 8hp head and 6 petal front half from an 8hp (prop rated) 84' and up. adding a 9.9hp carb just makes things really confusing but basically would just need to experiment with jets to get it to run right, but then you are right back where you started with the same 7.5 (6hp prop) powerhead. only way to make these 8hp is by taking the block apart and changing the front half and head from an 8hp,along with the larger 8hp carb 1984 and up.
I believe I explained all of that in the video. Anyway, Powerhead/Prop rating means nothing, I knew somebody was going to bring that crap up. Hahaha, what are we talking about here, 1/2 - 1 horsepower? I'm not trying to build an 8 as I mentioned in the video, I would need the bigger intake for that. The 7.5 ran from 80-83 but always had an "8" in the model numbers. 84 it became the 8 horse. And yes, the carb, if you want to call it a 9.9 you can, or an 8 or a 7.5. Same carb, all depends on the jet size it has. And that's all I'm doing, is fooling around with jet sizes. This 87 6hp uses the same intake as the 7.5's and if you look at an 84-87 8 intake its still a pretty close match. I'm not seeing 6 pedals. We all know these old outboards can handle a little bigger jet, OMC did it for years, 18-20-25. When I put that 35 horse carb on my 84 25 Evinrude, Standard prop, it turned out to be the sweetest running 25 I ever owned. And I've had a few. I hated to get rid of it but I only had about $300 in it and traded it for my 60hp. Anyway the 7.5's were using a 35 jet, I've got a 38 in it. If it's to much, no biggie! I'll bump it down. It's going "Back in Time" with that carb swap. The original plastic top carb has a 32 jet where the 87 8 has a 40 in it. Pretty big difference there for two more horses! Well, I gotta roll! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Thank you for taking the time to give that very informative reply. Just shows how much you value your viewers' opinions. I say TOO for president !
I love your channel and plus how quick your response are to your viewers, I have a 1982 7.5 Johnson, New water pump at idle it peas water for about five seconds then stops put it in forward and it pees water perfect, I’m not going to lie it’s a eBay water pump, I put a drill to the driveshaft and water comes up about 2 inches past the water tube on the lower unit. What can cause this?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. It should come out higher than that. That happened to me once with a 25, I replaced the impeller and all was good, but couldn't "see" anything wrong with the old impeller and I did the same thing with the drill and the impeller hit me in the face with water. If its not the impeller check for something stuck around the pump and where it pulls water in. That's about all I can think of unless there is something floating around in the water passageways and blocking the pee tube off and on. You could pull the thermostat out and leave the cover off, crank up the motor and see if water is reaching the t-stat housing. If it is, then let it run and flush out the passageways. If it's not then that impeller may be weak. If it's weak and the water's not reaching the thermostat it will run hot. Curious to know what you find out. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Your post production editor needs a raise 😅👍 or maybe a couple wings and a beer 🍻 thanks for the post I always enjoy your saga! The struggle is real🤦♂️
I have a 8 horse 1997 johnson I recently acquired… Apon going over the engine I also found the butterfly to roller link to be too long.. Wierd?!. I got 1/8 brass round stock from home depot and made my own piece. Seems to be better but still fine tuning the carb.
sorry I'm late to the party but IMO if you are turning the screw and the butterfly pin is moving the screw your turning is bent and acting like a cam lobe causing the pin to move. If that's not the case the hole in the cam is egged and when you tighten it, it aligns the cam on the sides of the cam as you tightened the screw and the butterfly will move as it tightens. M2C
Hey thanks for tuning in. I see what your saying but no, it's just catching the first threads at that point, the turning in straight. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Yes. I've been working backwards to get to that point. Now that I've got the linkage fixed I can work forwards. A little complicated butcha gotta do whatcha gotta do! Stay Tuned !
I was watching an earlier episode where you were using the "indian rope trick" when removing the flywheel on a Johnson outboard. Where do you insert the rope? Also, how does it work? Is the rope simply preventing the piston from doing to the top of the cylinder? Can the rope be inserted into the spark plug hole?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yes! Spark plugs out, bring the piston up almost to the top of the cylinder and stuff as much rope in it as you can. The rope will stop the piston/flywheel so you can twist the flywheel nut off. Then do it again by turning the flywheel in the opposite direction when you put the flywheel back on to tighten the nut. BUT BE CAREFUL not to put the rope into the exhaust/intake ports because you can cut the rope off inside the motor and that won't be good. Thats why the piston has to be high in the cylinder, blocking the ports when you first put the rope in. Or, you could just by a "piston stop tool" and do it the easy way! 14 mm size. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Thanks a lot man. I really enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. Any idea the size of the four screws on the flywheel the puller threads into for me a 79 35hp Evinrude?
I have a 1979 35 Evinrude model 35952A with wiring issues. I probably need a new wiring harness, I have been replaced starter and the ignition switch but it still will not turn over. This is probably a dumb question but should I be able to pull start the motor? I have checked and I am getting spark.
HEY THERE I DON'T KNOW HOW TO SEND YOU A PICTURE AND I DON'T HAVE A 6HP ANY LONGER BUS I DO HAVE 5 4HP ALL LOOK THE SAME THEY ARE ALL STRAIGHT FROM THE ROLLER TO THE CARB. NO BEND IN THE LINKAGE. BUT ALL HAVE A SPRING ON THE SHAFT COMING OUT THE CARB TO THE LINKAGE LIKE ON A SPINNING REEL THE SPRING GOES OVER THE CARB SHAFT TO THE ARM ON THE CARB FORCING THE BUTTERFLY TO SNAP BACK FORCING THE CARB TO GET LESS FULE UNLESS YOU TIGHTEN THE SCREW ST THE TOP BY THE ROLLER. WISH I KNEW HOW TO SEND YOU A PICTURE.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a 84 7.5 Johnson that gave me similar problems, but now works like a champ.
I had oil/sludge in the bucket & same sludge as you see on the lower unit; plus found whitish foamy stuff inside the lower unit when I took i out: all this was caused by a leaking lower crank seal! Replaced the seal, all good and clean after that.
Now about the carb linkage: you are on the right path. The only important things are: the distance between linkage journals (to ensure proper engagement of carb butterfly), and wire diameter (to ensure proper fit & no extra play). I have the dimensions of the "bent" OEM P/N 0330286 linkage: wire dia. =.125", distance between journal axis = 1.050".
Hope it helps!
Cool! Thanks !
Those measurements are nvaluable info for anyone having to deal with one of those swapped-around parts engines ! Thank you very much.
was watching your earlier vid to catch up so hopefully i can clear this up for ya': the 7.5 was powerhead rated, and was sold as a 6hp (basically the one you have) starting in 84' as prop-rated. if you want to make it 7.5-8hp, again, you will need the tighter 8hp head and 6 petal front half from an 8hp (prop rated) 84' and up. adding a 9.9hp carb just makes things really confusing but basically would just need to experiment with jets to get it to run right, but then you are right back where you started with the same 7.5 (6hp prop) powerhead. only way to make these 8hp is by taking the block apart and changing the front half and head from an 8hp,along with the larger 8hp carb 1984 and up.
Wow ! This is of "Leeroy's ramblings" level of deep knowledge. Thank you for sharing.!
I believe I explained all of that in the video. Anyway, Powerhead/Prop rating means nothing, I knew somebody was going to bring that crap up. Hahaha, what are we talking about here, 1/2 - 1 horsepower? I'm not trying to build an 8 as I mentioned in the video, I would need the bigger intake for that. The 7.5 ran from 80-83 but always had an "8" in the model numbers. 84 it became the 8 horse. And yes, the carb, if you want to call it a 9.9 you can, or an 8 or a 7.5. Same carb, all depends on the jet size it has. And that's all I'm doing, is fooling around with jet sizes. This 87 6hp uses the same intake as the 7.5's and if you look at an 84-87 8 intake its still a pretty close match. I'm not seeing 6 pedals. We all know these old outboards can handle a little bigger jet, OMC did it for years, 18-20-25. When I put that 35 horse carb on my 84 25 Evinrude, Standard prop, it turned out to be the sweetest running 25 I ever owned. And I've had a few. I hated to get rid of it but I only had about $300 in it and traded it for my 60hp. Anyway the 7.5's were using a 35 jet, I've got a 38 in it. If it's to much, no biggie! I'll bump it down. It's going "Back in Time" with that carb swap. The original plastic top carb has a 32 jet where the 87 8 has a 40 in it. Pretty big difference there for two more horses! Well, I gotta roll! Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I luv Leeroysramblings! Brings back lots of memories. Thx
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 Thank you for taking the time to give that very informative reply. Just shows how much you value your viewers' opinions. I say TOO for president !
@@danielrobert7181 Hahaha! I try and do my homework !
I'm looking at the same thing on my 15hp 1987, putting the older carb on. Keep em coming my good man.
Hey. Thanks again !
I am positive the 15 or 9.9 has a bend in the linkage to the roller.
Another great job see you in the next real life saga episode 👍🏻🤘🏻
Thanks !
Next summer or spring I’ll take a look at where my roller strikes cam hell I just rebuilt it and put it back together didn’t change carb or nothin
Cool man!
Just some on the fly engineering. It helps to hear your thought process.
Thanks again !
I love your channel and plus how quick your response are to your viewers, I have a 1982 7.5 Johnson, New water pump at idle it peas water for about five seconds then stops put it in forward and it pees water perfect, I’m not going to lie it’s a eBay water pump, I put a drill to the driveshaft and water comes up about 2 inches past the water tube on the lower unit. What can cause this?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. It should come out higher than that. That happened to me once with a 25, I replaced the impeller and all was good, but couldn't "see" anything wrong with the old impeller and I did the same thing with the drill and the impeller hit me in the face with water. If its not the impeller check for something stuck around the pump and where it pulls water in. That's about all I can think of unless there is something floating around in the water passageways and blocking the pee tube off and on. You could pull the thermostat out and leave the cover off, crank up the motor and see if water is reaching the t-stat housing. If it is, then let it run and flush out the passageways. If it's not then that impeller may be weak. If it's weak and the water's not reaching the thermostat it will run hot. Curious to know what you find out. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
@@THISOLDOUTBOARD1 thanks a lot I will let you know what’s the cause when I find out.
Your post production editor needs a raise 😅👍 or maybe a couple wings and a beer 🍻 thanks for the post I always enjoy your saga! The struggle is real🤦♂️
Thanks 👍
Yeah i was about to say that looks like the 9.9 and 15 hp carb (the 15 carb bore being a little bigger )
Yeah also used in the 6, 7.5 & 8, just different jet sizes. Thanks again !
I have a 8 horse 1997 johnson I recently acquired… Apon going over the engine I also found the butterfly to roller link to be too long.. Wierd?!. I got 1/8 brass round stock from home depot and made my own piece. Seems to be better but still fine tuning the carb.
Cool
Make sure to make time for the boat test video.....with bass in the boat!
KodiBas or Largemouth Bass? Hahaha Thanks again !
Im feeling good about this adjustment
Thanks !
sorry I'm late to the party but IMO if you are turning the screw and the butterfly pin is moving the screw your turning is bent and acting like a cam lobe causing the pin to move. If that's not the case the hole in the cam is egged and when you tighten it, it aligns the cam on the sides of the cam as you tightened the screw and the butterfly will move as it tightens. M2C
Hey thanks for tuning in. I see what your saying but no, it's just catching the first threads at that point, the turning in straight. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
I don’t know last time you ran it sounded fine to me? I WOULD RUN IT!!!!
Yes. I've been working backwards to get to that point. Now that I've got the linkage fixed I can work forwards. A little complicated butcha gotta do whatcha gotta do! Stay Tuned !
I have 1986 evinrude 15hp do you know what the purpose of that tampered pin thats in the crankcase cover ?why is it there?
Hey. I think you mean "Taper Pin". It helps keep things lined up properly.
I was watching an earlier episode where you were using the "indian rope trick" when removing the flywheel on a Johnson outboard. Where do you insert the rope? Also, how does it work? Is the rope simply preventing the piston from doing to the top of the cylinder? Can the rope be inserted into the spark plug hole?
Hey. Thanks for tuning in. Yes! Spark plugs out, bring the piston up almost to the top of the cylinder and stuff as much rope in it as you can. The rope will stop the piston/flywheel so you can twist the flywheel nut off. Then do it again by turning the flywheel in the opposite direction when you put the flywheel back on to tighten the nut. BUT BE CAREFUL not to put the rope into the exhaust/intake ports because you can cut the rope off inside the motor and that won't be good. Thats why the piston has to be high in the cylinder, blocking the ports when you first put the rope in. Or, you could just by a "piston stop tool" and do it the easy way! 14 mm size. Thanks again & Stay tuned !
Thanks a lot man. I really enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. Any idea the size of the four screws on the flywheel the puller threads into for me a 79 35hp Evinrude?
@@ferraripower273 No I don't know off hand but I do know they came in the flywheel puller kits I bought. I think it was at harbor freight
I have a 1979 35 Evinrude model 35952A with wiring issues. I probably need a new wiring harness, I have been replaced starter and the ignition switch but it still will not turn over. This is probably a dumb question but should I be able to pull start the motor? I have checked and I am getting spark.
@@ferraripower273 Hey. Yeah you can pull it. Or jump the starter motor straight from the battery. The start solenoid may be bad.
FINE TUNING
Thanks again !
HEY THERE I DON'T KNOW HOW TO SEND YOU A PICTURE AND I DON'T HAVE A 6HP ANY LONGER BUS I DO HAVE 5 4HP ALL LOOK THE SAME THEY ARE ALL STRAIGHT FROM THE ROLLER TO THE CARB. NO BEND IN THE LINKAGE. BUT ALL HAVE A SPRING ON THE SHAFT COMING OUT THE CARB TO THE LINKAGE LIKE ON A SPINNING REEL THE SPRING GOES OVER THE CARB SHAFT TO THE ARM ON THE CARB FORCING THE BUTTERFLY TO SNAP BACK FORCING THE CARB TO GET LESS FULE UNLESS YOU TIGHTEN THE SCREW ST THE TOP BY THE ROLLER. WISH I KNEW HOW TO SEND YOU A PICTURE.
Where can i find a cam follower/throttle linkage?? 1973 johsnon 6 hp
Thanks for tuning in! marineengine.com and/or ebay
I live in your area I'm looking to get my 25hp looked at
you better get to the back of the line buddy....lol
Hey. Thanks for tuning in! I'm a little backed up but stay in touch!
that should work buddy
It better! Hahaha Thanks !
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🤠
Thanks for tuning in!
Reverse and re-engineer!
Thanks !
Can't make it bigger around-flatten it. Engineering and fabrication at it's finest.
Hahaha Thanks Again !