Great experiment. I don't use tall spindle, but in general, I have found notching to be extremely effective in inducing bud break in most fruit trees that I've tried it on. So far sweet cherries have been the most resistant. I have used it on dormant buds, very small buds, pushing buds and even extended shoots early in the season to encourge them to become more vigorous and dominant if they are growing weakly. The majority of my experience is still on apples, which seem maybe especially responsive. The future of fruit tree training is going to be much smarter and work with plant physiology like this to get much more specific desired results.
Appreciate you making a video of your research and having the results in the same video. Kinda proves it works, unlike all these other fools with cameras that have a 'how to' video with no followup. I was just thinking the other day that all these research papers published by universities should have an accompanying video so they can be seen by the public and not hidden 20 pages deep in some web archive where no one will see them. Thanks
I found that Pawpaw trees don't like any notching. The bark did not heal, and a wound developed at the notch that resulted in the loss of the upper stock.
I want to clarify the use of 6-BA (as Maxcel, Promalin, Exilis, or Perlan) to promote branching. Unless used in paint and at a high rate on dormant buds, it is not particularly effective when sprayed on at the lower rate unless the buds have brokend and green tissue is showing. If that is the case, then yes, that 6-BA application can help the bud grow and elongate. But not if they are more-or-less dormant, then notching is far more effective at breaking those buds, while the 6-BA spray application won't be particularly effective. For more experimentation and information, see these links and of course read and follow respective label directions. Using Heading vs. Notching to Induce Branching in Non-Feathered, First-Leaf Apple Trees umassfruitnotes.com/v75n3/a3.pdf Increasing Branching of Newly Planted Apple Trees umassfruitnotes.com/v79n3/a2.pdf Increasing Branching of Newly Planted Apple Trees in the Orchard, an Update umassfruitnotes.com/v80n1/a2.pdf Increasing Branching of Cider Apple Trees umassfruitnotes.com/v85n1/a6.pdf
I'm new to trees. I noticed you are simply cutting into the tree and not removing any material. Other videos I see they actually remove a notch of the bark above the bud. Is there a difference in results with these methods? I'd rather not remove material because I'm concerned with bacteria and disease exposure. by painting do you mean heavy application?
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Great experiment. I don't use tall spindle, but in general, I have found notching to be extremely effective in inducing bud break in most fruit trees that I've tried it on. So far sweet cherries have been the most resistant. I have used it on dormant buds, very small buds, pushing buds and even extended shoots early in the season to encourge them to become more vigorous and dominant if they are growing weakly. The majority of my experience is still on apples, which seem maybe especially responsive. The future of fruit tree training is going to be much smarter and work with plant physiology like this to get much more specific desired results.
Appreciate you making a video of your research and having the results in the same video. Kinda proves it works, unlike all these other fools with cameras that have a 'how to' video with no followup. I was just thinking the other day that all these research papers published by universities should have an accompanying video so they can be seen by the public and not hidden 20 pages deep in some web archive where no one will see them.
Thanks
Agreed.
That’s a great idea.
Thanx for sharing this video.. 💕 💕
I found that Pawpaw trees don't like any notching. The bark did not heal, and a wound developed at the notch that resulted in the loss of the upper stock.
Great video
Very informative .. John
Excellent
I want to clarify the use of 6-BA (as Maxcel, Promalin, Exilis, or Perlan) to promote branching. Unless used in paint and at a high rate on dormant buds, it is not particularly effective when sprayed on at the lower rate unless the buds have brokend and green tissue is showing. If that is the case, then yes, that 6-BA application can help the bud grow and elongate. But not if they are more-or-less dormant, then notching is far more effective at breaking those buds, while the 6-BA spray application won't be particularly effective. For more experimentation and information, see these links and of course read and follow respective label directions.
Using Heading vs. Notching to Induce Branching in Non-Feathered, First-Leaf Apple Trees umassfruitnotes.com/v75n3/a3.pdf
Increasing Branching of Newly Planted Apple Trees umassfruitnotes.com/v79n3/a2.pdf
Increasing Branching of Newly Planted Apple Trees in the Orchard, an Update umassfruitnotes.com/v80n1/a2.pdf
Increasing Branching of Cider Apple Trees umassfruitnotes.com/v85n1/a6.pdf
I'm new to trees. I noticed you are simply cutting into the tree and not removing any material. Other videos I see they actually remove a notch of the bark above the bud. Is there a difference in results with these methods? I'd rather not remove material because I'm concerned with bacteria and disease exposure. by painting do you mean heavy application?
beAuTiFuL
what is the earliest that notching can be done ???
Can you notch Persimmon trees ?
What is tha best rootstock between m9vs g16 ???
But I think one side is ok not two
1:14 Jon my friend, you are like Joe Biden. 🙂 Start drinking Ginkgo-based supplements as soon as possible.