Discovering MORE ISSUES | Step 352
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As a woodworker who has used personal protection equipment, PPE for over 40 years, I really applaud you both for using masks, earphones, glasses, gloves and respirators especially with all the mold, wood dust and fiberglass that you are dealing with. Some people don't realize all the microscopic particles that do the most damage to our lungs or that hearing loss from loud sounds is cumulative and non-repairable. Separately, I commend you for deciding to completely redesign and rebuild your boat while tied up in a slip, in an unfamiliar harbor with limited access to an existing shop and tools! It seems like you are attempting to do all this with one hand tied behind your back, at night, with only a flashlight! But I know you will both do a great job and it will be a thing of beauty that will live to sail another 50 years!
"Some people don't realize all the microscopic particles that do the most damage to our lungs". Way worse than that is almost nobody realizes that *particles smaller than 2.5 microns, (PM2.5) go right through the lungs directly into the bloodstream!*
The biggest source of plaque in our veins, by far, is not from fatty foods, but from our body's defense against foreign particles, which is to surround the particle with cholesterol and have the liver break it down. The problem occurs when their are too many foreign particles at a time, overwhelming the process and causing a buildup.
There are very powerful people who's jobs (and profits) depend on us _not_ knowing just how deadly air pollution really is. Can you guess who they are?
@@NibsNiven100% with you there. I was reading about this then thought I had missed something when they were talking about anti bodies in your blood stream that attack silica. As they said in the colgate advert. It really does get in.
eh, they might just be doing this for the camera. When the camera's not on, are they still doing all of this and setting up the scenes so they look photogenic?
I know i'm probably to late . But going to write it down anyway . It may be helpful to others refitting a fibreglass boat .
To avoid hardspots to your hull thicken up your hull substantially on the place where your bulkheads are going to be . Therefore glue on fibreglass strips about 4 0r 5 inches wide . Go at least 1/4 inch thick .
Used to build fibreglass boats in the Netherlands with Loyds off London approval . This is how we did it !
Thanks for the info!
That's a great suggestion. It's crucial to spread the influence of the bulkhead over a wide strip of hull material, (otherwise cracks will form becuase the sudden change in stiffness at the bulkhead is a colossal stress raiser) and the thinner the skin, the more important. If it's a foam core hull, it's a good idea to use another core material to make a trapezoidal section of similar thickness to the core for the thickening pad, which is then glassed to the inside of the hull. This should at least match the thickness as the inner skin, preferably maybe 25% more. It is better to use end grain balsa in this role, as it has much higher compression strength than any foam. The width can be maybe 100mm at the thin (inboard) face of the trapezoid for an 8m boat, 150mm for an 11m boat.
This is the equivalent of restoring a 1971 Pinto.
💯
I have to admire you guys for making the tough decision to strip out all of your previous hard work on the knowledge that you can improve and make things better for the future - well done!
It's a sign of growth and self-confidence.
We added a piece of shock cord to stabilize our hanging fruit net. It eliminated the rocking and most of the fruit bashing
You should mount some kind of "Made in Italy" badge to increase Uma's prestige. :)
Italian Design.
you need a little bit of red in there too which will make UMA so much faster through the water! ;-)
@@PitStopCrew :)
Out of bronze.
G'day UMA, as a Marine Engineer & Architect, your bulkheads essentially serve two main purposes. Bulkheads prevent torsional stress and keep the hull from twisting. Secondly, bulkheads act as transverse frames. Bulkheads along with the stringer system (within floor construction) together create a structural "sound web" that absolutely strengthens the boat! Theoretical there are three types of bulkheads: full, partial, and non-structural partitions. However, take any of them away, or install them incorrectly or comprised, and you're left with a weak boat that is prone to bulkhead failure and destructive torsional twisting!!!
Thus, the reason for the refit. Perhaps you haven't watched from the beginning, these two architects on a boat. Pardon me, ship. Boats lean inwards on a corner, and ships lean outwardly, I've been told. Your appraisal of the problems they've experienced and their estimation of the required remediation would be helpful. Your knowledge is valuable.
15:05 I'm not a naval architect, but my understanding is that if the hull is designed to be a sort of shock absorber, that it will be designed to have some flex and putting in bulkheads that reinforce the hull may create spots where the hull can't flex as originally intended and then under those conditions, it won't have the strength required.
It's like the difference between a slim tree being able to bend in a wind and not snap versus a tree that can't bend but needs to be much stronger to not snap in the same wind.
So, without reinforcement, your weak, flimsy hull is able to flex and give along its length without breaking, but if its ability to flex along the length is removed, the hull may not be stout enough and risk "snapping in the breeze".
You might want to reach out to a boat builder and see what they think about your planned addition of structural bulkheads compared to the thickness and composition of the hull, taking into account the length of the hull.
I know the Evans glassed the fk out of the keel area of their production boat and whatever else that had it rated as salvage and there was similar concern that they were overdoing it and adding more rigidity than the builder specified. Their insurance surveyor was happy with the work, though, and the boat hasn't broken.
Of course the builder may have just put in the minimum needed to keep a day sailer serviceable and built it with the least amount of weight and expense.
When Fiberglass was being introduced to the boating industry in the 60's, a lot of experimentation occurred on the thickness necessary and this topic has some considerable discussion from before year 2000. Some manufacturers learned about flex the hard way: breaking up in the waves because the boat was too tight. It is true that in general, boats became thinner with better materials and some manufacturers goofed in the beginning. Pearson by large has a solid reputation for a very structurally sound hull. I am also not a naval engineer. Software engineering packages and analytical engineering design approaches were not nearly as pervasive in the 70's as now. It takes computer analysis to thin down a structure and keep it within stress tolerance. Maintaining and Experimenting over years, I own an original 1977 Chris Craft, which hull is thick and bulletproof, and a 1979 Pearson 26, which we race weekly in PHRF. Working on them, both boats hulls seem to be more designed to keep their shape rather than flex. Following Dan and Kika through this latest series has been instructional. The wooden boats manufactured in the 60's and 70's (Chris Craft, Trojan, etc.) came with their custom cradle that kept the boat in shape when it was hauled out each winter. Changing cradles for the same boat model was risky. It says a lot.
Styrofoam is such a poor insulator that mold was inevitable. You fridge was possibly not leaking at all. I am glad to see you demo-ed the galley. Great work guys. Never give up, never surrender.
Bulkheads probably not attached to tne hull to allow flexing. Seen this around 30 years ago on a specialist naval vessel 172 ft in length.
Yeah, it's a little hard watching you demo the galley. That was one of my favorite original projects. Can't wait to see the makeover.
Because tensioning the rig causes Uma's hull to flex, have you considered what state the rig should be in as you tab in the new bulkheads?
a nice transition from cruising to renovations
ProTip#7 One thing I personally find very helpful when working is cursing. Cursing helps ALOT😅
I can't work on my boat without it, kind of like the Dad working on his furnace in "A Christmas Story!"
factory ice boxes are generally worse than a cheap cooler and the fridge/freezer you created had more insulation than most commercial units too. A commercial cooling unit box is made to optimize space and they compete being able to fit in a particular space and yet hold as much or more than the next guy's unit.... not a recipe for efficiency. Yes they need to be sealed (with a drain to some place safe)... even cheap ice boxes have that. It will be really interesting to see what you come up with.
I love when Dan dives into technical and engineering stuff. Please do it more often for the engineering nerds! You guys are awesome
Sad to see your work removed, but excited to see you new vision take shape. Love the journey you guys have taken on. Thank you for sharing.
So sad to see so much quality work being destroyed. Can’t wait to see the upgrade!
A loyal fan since episode 1 and I cannot wait to see what amazing redesign you create for Uma.
Hanse is one of those manufacturers claiming an integrated grid and everything tabbed together but you tear down and find out it's all just "close". But not integrated at all.
Oh guys, can't wait see when you start building again. This is going to keep us biting our nails. 😂❤
Same here. Two architects that have been thinking about this for years......has to be mind blowing. I am ready to learn and take notes.
I have never attempted anything as radical as what you are doing but I did tab the bulkheads to the deck on my 1970 Morgan 42. There were gaps everywhere and nothing like the socket you have in your headliner. She used to squeak and groan and wiggle in a seaway. I got caught out in a 45 knot noreaster and it was positively scary. I used chopped strand mat, a layer of 1708 and 4 oz finishing cloth and Peel Ply. My work is visible so it had to be neat. The walnut Formica is now painted gloss white and it came out well, though l say it myself. But the biggest change was in the feel of the boat as she sails; when she hits a wave there is a thud then a vibration that passes through the whole vessel 😊and not a squeak or a wiggle anywhere! It is SO satisfying and reassuring. You are doing the right thing and Uma will last for another 50 years! Charlie Morgan and Clint Pearson would be proud!
4 days running I've watched 351 and 352 and they still make me sad.
Many manufacturers of both mono-hulls and catamarans do not fully attach the bulkheads to the hulls. Consequently, the so-called "water tight" bulkheads, in fact, are not water tight. Many of you may own, or are dreaming of owning, such boats without knowing about that serious deficiency. So, during the inspection process of any new or used boat, make sure that the surveyor specifically looks for this. It's a very real problem.
My racing friends would say you just made the boat ready to sail. I would imagine you'd get a knot or 2 extra with all of that weight out..
I've been watching right along as you demo Uma. I wasn't sad about it until you started taking apart the galley.
The learning curve is never ending. the mold growths are clear indications of inadequate air circulation . you folk are at the sharp end and will already have a layout / plan of how to tackle / prevent mold growth.. keep up the good work and enthusiasm . replacing the bulkheads and making patterns is a time consuming chore . Tally Ho .. springs to mind . Leo is not one to cut corners and skimp . fumes released by epoxy mixes need to be taken seriously . Ventilation, fume extraction and breathing precautions are well documented ..
Stay strong folks! I know for you this is a big hassle but I actually enjoy these boat project videos. Note: For the Lazy Susan fitting challenge, perhaps temperature and humidity played a role on material expansion.
Yeah, those tabs were just to hold the furniture in place.
If you are going for fully glassed bulkheads and indeed furniture, you will need some additional ribs as well to stiffen the entire structure or all the flexibility you used to have will be concentrated between the bulkheads.
Dan, watching you demo the Gally was a bit painful. I really loved the hefty Susan you built. It was more than just storage. It was a piece of artwork. I was watching your channel when you designed and built it and found it to be such an elegant solution to your problem at the time. I do look forward to seeing how you top it. ❤
I had a Peltier fridge in one of my sailboats. It was converted from an icebox with a little extra foam around it but it would drain my single FLA battery in 48 hours when combined with the old incandescent masthead anchor light. I so much appreciate LED lights and newer 12 volt compressor fridges
Our old boat was very well tabbed, without additional and held up to thousands of hard miles including being rolled over in the north pacific. Tab EVERYTHING.
To decrease the singing net basket add a third anchor in the middle of the back. You guys are doing great!!
Many if not most production shipyards for smaller fiberglass hulled vessels will go the easier route as far as the bulkheads are concerned and for most it's a production cost vs projected sale price and profit demand issue. Given the projected lifespan of the vessel these minor "cheats" aren't deemed to be a problem or at least not a problem before the vessel is bound for the scrapheap or the sea floor.
For about two years now I follow Uma.
Just came back from a 2 week vacation in Sardegna. One week inland and one week on a sailboat. I think we even sailed by your Marina. (No we did not try to stop by, you guys are busy)
When talking to my friednds we sailed with they confirmed that NO shipyard on the island let‘s you do your own work on your own boat. When they have major repairs / modifications on their boat then they take it over to Tuscany. There are quite some shipyards that let you do this.
So from a saving Uma perspective, I think you picked the wrong place. From the landscape, nature and beauty perspective you are at the spot on. That said Tuscany is beautiful too.
Yeah we figured if we’re going to stay still for a year or so, may as well enjoy the scenery.
That mould under the refrigerator: it doesn't mean it was leaking. The warmer air will rise, meet the underside of the refrigerator box, and moisture will ALWAYS condense out. Even if you have free air ventilation, the incoming air meeting the colder surface - even protected from the really cold stuff by thick insulation - is always going to deposit moisture. You'd have to have a fan-driven air circulation to keep it dry, I think.
Not an engineer but do have a question about the bulkheads. Could the reason they weren't tabbed in and had like an inch or more air space between them and the bilge/hull be because it would make Uma too ridge and brittle? So that in high waves and heavy weather the hull wouldn't be able to flex or twist slightly if needed?
yep, the hull would find a place were it could not bend and possibly snap there, to combat that you need to make the hull thicker there and gradually reduce thickness towards unsupported hull.
Kinda like a 1 piece wooden archery bow.
I’m an engineer, but not structural and I think that’s a pretty good question. It’s kind of like the way your car is designed to crumple around you and take the force of an accident without transferring it to you, the driver. People who don’t understand this concept just think modern cars are cheaply assembled, but your car being able to literally self destruct from impact is intentional.
I wish I knew more about marine engineering but that makes more sense than chalking up Uma’s seemingly poor construction to corporate penny pinching.
Mmm interesting but add the fact its old resin glass miss use and as I remember keel issues, maybe strengthen in areas,, ? First I would glass a keel box floor structure in
way easier to rip apart than rebuild... I know I'm halfway through my own. You guys work very well together so that's a big plus!
I've been reworking my boat, it it's become evident that what I need most is a petite shipmate who can boat yoga into places I can't...
Your comments on tabbing were correct, however, the point you didn't consider was cost. Yes tabbing correctly should avoid a hard point on the hull but at the cost of time and materials that in a competitive production boat market just were not an option. Uma and many other 70's production boats have lasted well without the tabbing of internal bulkheads and without e-Glass or carbon fibre materials and with lots of chop. Market forces weigh heavily on Navel Architects today as they did in the 70's 80's 90's ect. and their expert advice isn't always heeded.
The renovations Dan & Kika are undertaking would stress a professional boat yard and I admire you in your vision and execution. Good luck and don't drill any unintentional holes in the hull, cheers
Just a guess but the mold around the fridge is likely from condensation rather than leakage. Good luck keeping moist air away from cooled surfaces on a boat. I think you just need to try to make those spaces accessible for cleaning. Good luck.
Looking forward to seeing your new design choices.
I’m concerned, as others are here about making the hull too rigid for its thickness. There’s a reason they design airplane wings to flex. It absorbs shock or energy over a larger area, at least that’s my take on it. Even thick cable layouts are designed with bends in them to absorb movement from thermal expansion and contraction.
Boat building in the UK in the 60's and 70's it was normal to leave a bit of a gap between bulkheads and the hull, we still made a fillet either side so that it could be properly bonded in place. The "stickies" (also known as laminators) then came along and tabbed it using about 3 layers of chopped strand mat. This spread the load and avoided the hard spots that can be seen as hull deformation and sometimes stress fractures. I am looking forward to seeing the new interior layout.
Have you thought about the stability of your yacht when you add all the new fittings? It can seriously destabilise it if you get it wrong…
Of all the cool things in this video, I think getting Hefty Sue into that tiny car was the most impressive.
Good going, guys! As regards how the lazy susan's "drum" came into the boat, it appears that gravity was on your side - which isn't the case for taking it out. And because of that, it most likely came in with some forcing. And by the way, in the cabinetmaking trade, sides of cabinets are called gables and not as you surmised, bulkheads.
Hi Dan, it’s a compressor fridge (that has a condenser and a evaporator). I like your determination and hope that you’re enjoying the good-feeling-painful process. I wish you will have prevailing Tramuntana during the summer. A big hug for booth or you. Greetings from Menorca. Goodbye Kika❤.
This is emotional to watch and it's not even my boat.
My neighbor delivers meals to restaurants (!!!) And he has a polystyrene fridge on wheel. Effective, much lighter than steel, with a built in motor. I like this idea for a boat.
Heafty Susan coming out, with the bulkhead leaving the party has the boat squatted? Is it now wider in the beam which would mean the roof has sagged lower distorting the hatch? Just a thought from far away.
If you put happy sue in before the rig went back on, the fore and aft tension may have pulled the hull upwards just enough to make the companionway slightly narrower
I am a "crossover" fan in that our primary interest is Motorhoming... but I am so enjoying these videos and your progress immensely, recognising many similarities to "land-yachting" ;-). One HUGE difference I noticed was during the process of removing your stuff from the boat and the weight. I can't help wondering whether boats have weight limits? On the road with suspension chassis etc there are strict weight limits, I have to assume that whilst these limits will be a lot higher there must also be safe ranges of tonnage you can add to a boat like that! It is always surprising how heavy stuff is when you add it all up!!
Another thought to add to the pile of Heft Susan Theories :- IIRC wasn't Uma being Air Conditioned from the dock when you originally built that galley? Uma would have been very dry and wood trims would have contracted a little. In your current conditions, they'll have swelled. Taking up the few mm's you needed to get Susan through the hatch.
I about cried with the removal of the hefty Susan! I was so impressed with your ingenuity and creativeness of it in the first place. Absolute geniuses, the pair of you.♥♥♥
You should get with Emily & Clark's Adventures to get one of their VERY low power A/C compressors for the fridge.
Surprises found in boats are such a joy to uncover. maybe not in the moment but the eductation and satisfaction of tearing something apart and making it better than it was is so rewarding. Those bulkheads keep amazing me. great jobs guys!
Condensation on a colder surface, not necessarily a leakage of the fridge
Hmm. I’d be very wary of glassing the new furniture supports solid to the hull. They form a sort of monocoque structure in their own right and need to float but stay in place methinks. Creaking is just a boat boating. As you say, they are not bulkheads and probably shouldn’t be. The extra stiffness where the hull is possibly thinner (?) may cause hull failure in a storm! The actual bulkheads that support the hull against the mast stay forces that are trying to squeeze the hull are another matter altogether.
I think this is my 3rd reno w/ you guys. I take breaks and switch channels sometimes but I'm all in for this knuckle buster!
Sardinia is beautiful can wait to see more of it. Palinuro is beautiful on mainland Italy on cost of Cilento directly East from Sardinia. Look up 'Baia del Buondormire'.
Lazy Susan install mystery guess here: you got it through the hatch without the inner partitions installed - allowing the wider (wider than base) rim to flex enough to fit.
It looked like the base was small enough to get through the hatch, but not the rim.
-David
Nop the whole thing was built off the boat and went in as one piece.
@@SailingUma argh
Doing much the same on my boat and have a couple of observations: 1 I build everything out of fiberglass, whilst wood is easier mold and rot is always a problem along with termites in warm countries. Fiberglass is more work but worth it to cut down on the mold and stop rot. 2 Be very careful tabbing anything to the hull. I have a solid / cored hull with stringers so it doesn't move but your boat hull is designed to move. You are trying to make your hull solid which is a great idea but you will want to add stringers which have large tabs to the hull and then fix the bulkheads to the stringers. Adding the stringers (with foam core!) is messy as you have to do a lot of grinding but pretty easy. I would be careful tabbing the bulkheads directly to the hull otherwise you might end up with stress cracking / fractures. Are you going to bag? I'm in two minds about bagging but haven't.
That is a good point. Making the hull rigid sounds like a big project.
@@charonstyxferryman True but its really difficult to fully saturate ply throughout, and if you don't it will delaminate. Also difficult to get marine ply unless you really trust your supply chain. Obviously I wouldn't build with solid fiberglass for walls, bulkheads, etc. for those I would use Nida or T90 core, stronger and lighter than ply. I've just had so many problems with ply I wont have it on the boat and using a proper core material is so much simpler. Actually I wont use Nida anymore either as it can degrade in hot humid conditions and causes interesting hydrostatic problems too.
Future boat owner here, watching 👁️👁️ and listening 👂🏼intently as you review all of your past work and material choices. I don’t expect to overhaul any boat that I may own to this extent, but I’ll take all the information I can get. Thanks 😊
It's always sad to take apart your old work, but it's onto something better in the next iteration!
My goodness you too, what a task and you're forging ahead Full Steam. Can't wait down the road to see the Finish but I know it'll be a good while and we'll get to see a lot of know-how and engineering. Dan and Kika, I salute you too!❤❤❤
I don't know if I'm more impressed with your actual skills, or confidence in your own ability.
Pause at the mold moment. This is probably condensation related. These areas need ventilation even if only gravitational. Just some holes.
I love the fact you guys are doing this. The alternative was a landfill or passing a problem on. I'm familiar with the model an found it to handle all points of sail well. It is amazing how much can be learned from deconstruction when the intent is to make it better. For me it's quite and comfy in the rolling state. I'm really looking forward to your design build on the interior. To make Uma fully offshore ready is a doable goal. Thank you for letting us share in your journey!!!
Quite a task you have taken on , but I wonder if you should glass in the bulkheads as you may compromise the natural flexing of the hull and cause stress points in the hull .
UMA’s is getting an interior make over and I’m here for it too. I’m so excited for you guys and I can’t wait to see the finished project! Good Job
It's interesting how strong things are and how difficult they can be to remove. A testament of ones intuition for structure and design. Great Workmanship!
This is turning into "This Old Boat", starring "Bob and Barbara Villla". :) Love it.
This is why prototypes are built. The difference between what you build and how it works in practise, the learning curve that has been climbed.
Nice weekend project, but you might need another saturday to finnish.💗
Funny to see the guessing about the bulkheads 😅 We did the same, seeing the tabbing and going like „naaah, this can’t be important, there is only tabbing from one side and its probably because they wanted an easier job when putting the wood in“ and so on. I think boatbuilders back in the days often did things that a designer would not have approved, but the test of time is what matters.
Solid glass is not stiff. It needs bulkheads. By comparison, a foam cored hull with 25mm core and 6mm skins either side is 37 times stiffer than a solid glass hull of 12mm thick. Additionally, as grp ages, it becomes less stiff
You have an old boat. I'd say their calculations were correct.
I would still consult a naval architect about your planned changes. You could be over stiffening the boat. Everything needs a little bit of flex. Otherwise it would break when exceeding structural strength instead of bending. Just my two cents.
It's such a crying shame. I remember the excitement and adventureism putting the galley in.😢😊
The mold under the fridge is caused by condensation. I renovate houses. Beter air circulation under the styrofoam helps. Also you should never Connect wood with solid condensating surface.
I have corian countertops in my kitchen that are over 20 years old and still look new. This demo hurts my heart because you guys did such a great job but I am excited to see what your new plans are. I love watching both of you do boat work!
OMG.A journey of a tousand miles starts with the first step ..keep moving soldier...
It is very hard to tear apart the thing you built with love and care. However when you know that what is to come, it is all worth it.
The freezer probably did not leak... rather it just sucked in heat from its surroundings and thus lowered the temperature of that plywood surface below it enough for atmospheric moisture to condense on it. Thicker walls of better insulation on the next iteration should help with avoiding that issue, to a degree. Whenever an exposed surface (or an interface of dissimilar materials) reaches the dew point there can be liquid water present _exactly_ like on the outside of a glass of ice water that "sweats" on a summer day. Just build thicker freezer walls so condensation would only occur when the relative humidity in the boat is exceptionally high!
OMG! I had to close my eyes when you demoed the galley area. All the work you put into making it. When you guys installed it I was so happy for you. It was so modern and awesome looking. Now, well, gone out the hatch. Can't wait to see the new plan.
Thanks 4 sharing 🙂
Shades of Expedition Evans and Sailing Parlay Revival. You're doing the right thing.
Watching you demo this old boat again, after all these years, leaves me feeling a sense of guilty pleasure. Really looking forward to what comes next.
You hooked me (as a viewer) when you rebuilt your floors. So fearless! This is like that again, but better!
Oh the joys of boat demolition. Such a roller coaster of emotions. Feels good, feels bad. You know the end result will be worth it but what a slog it is to get there. I feel for you. And am looking forward to seeing what you have planned.
Looking forward to seeing the new layout !
I was just thinking, how long have I been watching you guys ? Lol. Love the channel greetings from Calgary Canada. “Hey Dan I’m heading out to Port Alberni this year for the Salmon derby, first time since Covid”. Really miss Vancouver Island and the nice people . Take care of yourself you too!
I read some years ago that British built fibreglass boats had thinner hulls and relied on bulkhead to stiffen and strengthen the hull whereas US built hulls had more layers of fibreglass in the hull layup and were less reliant on bulkhead. If this is the case you will end up with a super stiff and strong hull with fewer squeaks.
Keep up the good work
Mike
Think it depends on the boat, plus when GRP was first coming in nobody really knew how thick GRP had to be to be safe and there was alot of scepticism about "plastic boats" not being strong enough, as a result in general early GRP hulls were quite often very overbuilt/very strong.
The beauty of the architects' minds: to see a better outcome on something that look already very good and already finished... That gally improved soo much with the version you just demolished... looking forward to what you put forward... hopefully you never settle down, but if you do, you guys have a bright future in boat refits and redesign!! Huge admiration to you!!!
I would make a temporary step stool from the old steps and a bit of scrap wood. Probably too late for this suggestion but here it is anyway...
I admire your skill and determination. I cannot imagine myself doing this project, even if I were 20 years younger. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Tabbing the buckheads for strength is great. Think how quiet the boat will be!
love watching the rebuilds ❤
Nice work analyzing all the parts. I'd be mostly concerned about finding ways to avoid mould, as that can cause serious health issues, especially as you live on the boat. Make sure air goes behind and under all parts with liquids. Also, I think you should keep a buffer between the hull and the bulkheads (and furniture), so that it can dent and doesn't break at a moderate impact. Layered struts, maybe with insulation, going in different directions, can add strength to the hull while keeping the contact with bulkheads elastic, maybe adding buoyancy. The bulkheads would still be functional if the struts are strong enough near the contact points. Make sure to have the points where the struts overlap away from the bulkheads and heavy furniture edges, so the hull can deform a little.
I watch this with one laughing and one crying eye, what you did back then Was stunningly beautiful and practical, but i know you will blow our minds.
Love watching you
I have never seen a couple demo the interior of their boat before. OK! Now it would be such a relief to see the future plans for Uma. Surprise us, please!
If brute force doesn’t work, you’re not using enough of it. - Isaac Arthur
My bulkhead suggestion is to have a small gap or hole at the lowest point so that any water that finds its way into the boat can drain easily into the bilge.
Also, Is Coco okay just chilling on the deck or is she watching the demo in fear of being replaced?
As someone who noticed the 1080p drop immediately; I just want to say YES DO IT. construction videos don't need to be more than gopros and mic enough for you to just keep working but have everything you need for a viable edit of what you're doing. you do amazing cinematic videos all the time but this isn't just a video for videos sake. you're doing work and I love that and I'm here if you film on a potato.