I recently used 3D One and I was a little skeptical but after using it for a couple of weeks,I am thoroughly impressed! I perform a lot of paint corrections on vehicles with hard paint and it corrects flawlessly. The ability to cut and then leave the residue from the cutting stage and change to a polish pad is unheard of and I have to admit it took some getting use to but once I did it was an awesome experience! It saves me so much time now! I look forward to trying more of your products!
I use 3D One Hybrid almost everyday at work, it makes the job so faster and easier, the coconut scent seems like a useless thing but when polishing a car for 6-8 hours it's nice to have this odor instead of chemical products. Didn't knew that you can change the buffing pad to finish it without removing the product.
Same here. I keep a bottle of ACA500 around for those heavily damaged and / or stubborn clear coats. The shop also has a lot of window tint and PPF installs going on. The dust resistant nature of 3D ONE also makes for a better environment for the film installation.
deepsquat600 95% of 3D polishes are demo’d using a rotary. They say you can use a DA, but I’m not sure how effective it’s gonna be, and not solely based on because a rotary is more powerful. IMO, 3D abrasives are geared for rotaries.
@@qwikss7522 yeah .. I have seen a few independent reviews... they still rate VERY high ( apex detail) .. but I agree,,rotarty is amazing ( I have no skill with one ) ..DA ..still good ..I will buy some for the next car I do to compare to Sonax and Griots ,,I think it will do fine
After applying 3D one to a vehicle, can I apply a wax or ceramic coating over top of it? Or would you just recommend using a polishing pad buffer to bring out the shine instead? Didn't know if I should let it dry first and then hand apply a different wax or ceramic coating to the vehicle or not? Would appreciate the feedback, Thanks!
This is a "one does all" product, so you can cut with a heavy pad, polish with a polishing pad, and finish with a finishing pad. If you want to bring up that final gloss with 3D ONE, use their black finishing pad, or something similar. No need to let 3D ONE dry on the surface, as it is a pure abrasive polish, without any protective waxes or sealants. The ceramic in the formula has nothing to do with the protection of the paint from the external elements, rather it was added to the formula to protect the paint from heat during the polishing process. After the final wipe of 3D ONE you can go straight to wax, or sealant. Use a panel wipe before applying a ceramic coating.
Is 3d one for all car colors or there is one for blue, dark deep blue, white, black? I need for dark deep metalic blue color because I have few deep scratches they are so much deep and they aren't big! Could 3d one help me to remove scratches and give bright shiny color?? Please help me this is my first car and I don't have to much experience!
Looking forward to finally using 3D One on a detail I have this weekend. One point I'll suggest is that perhaps consider replacing the word "remove" with blending or leveling. Just something other than remove. There's technically no way to remove a scratch as what is actually happening is that you're blending or leveling the clear coat to reduce the appearance of the scratch and in some cases yes, completely remove it's appearance. I only stress this as I often discuss detailing with customers and layman that are under the impression that they can actually remove just the scratch and in-turn fail to realize that what is actually happening is the clear coat around the scratch is simply being leveled. On that particular one I would suggest to the owner that we fill the deeper part of the scratch and level it to the surrounding area as best we can. I find using a super small airbrush / kit from the hobby store to fill and blend areas like this. Once dry and cured a very light wet sand is all that's needed and then it's pretty easy from there to level everything and blend the area just about fully.
I have COMPLETELY removed scratches for almost 30 years. It’s called water sanding. Sand the clear until it’s gone and then polish it back out. Sometimes it IS too deep but if you have enough clear it can be done easily. Takes a lot of experience to know when to stop.
@@chrismcclure71 whatever one calls it doesn't change the fact that it's simply leveling the clear around the scratch or defect thus reducing it, thinning said clear/finish, etc. I too have over 35 years of detailing and painting experience. My point was for the average person to better understand what is happening and the sensitivity and care that must be taken. Especially with modern day water based and super thin paint systems. 100% agree that it takes experience and really, a good paint gauge to know when to stop. Key isn't to just avoid burn-through it's to leave enough clear to protect and in many cases with certain Euro brands the UV Layer within the clear settles in the top layer of the clear coat too. Remove too much while leaving some still causes potential problems down the road.
Correct, I am still learning and didn’t want to add any more defects with the circular motion. I am going to use one this weekend and have always buffed off in straight lines but didn’t know if it was okay to use circular motion
3D Products will do, I did find my new microfiber towels I was using was leaving micro marring. What do you recommend for a towel to remove the compound/wax etc
So I tried out 3D One and gotta say either I have a bad bottle or it's night and day bad compared to other HD Products. Product looks normal, white and creamy with a thinner consistency than others but that's not the issue. The bottle I have is clearly a different solvent / oil base and is so oily that it doesn't seem to haze over at all. VERY Difficult to wipe off as a result. Seems very oily and full of solvents. Is this normal? I can always put up a video.
You're using way too much. Don't follow Mike Phillips recommendations for everything. He advocates using way to much product, which goes through more product and pads than necessary. For some it's absolutely ok, but 3D stuff is formulated to be concentrated, and requires less to prime and proceed through the polishing process. Maybe three or four small drops can cover a lot of territory. I start with the four, and reload with two. Also make sure your microfiber towels are clean, and the weave hasn't been worn out or melted through washing/drying. I've had old towels push the 3D One residue around instead of picking it up.
@@danlc95 it was a bad bottle. they long since replaced it. still not a huge fan of it but I do a lot of coatings and use the corresponding polishes for the brand.
I recently used 3D One and I was a little skeptical but after using it for a couple of weeks,I am thoroughly impressed! I perform a lot of paint corrections on vehicles with hard paint and it corrects flawlessly. The ability to cut and then leave the residue from the cutting stage and change to a polish pad is unheard of and I have to admit it took some getting use to but once I did it was an awesome experience! It saves me so much time now! I look forward to trying more of your products!
So your saying you dont wipe the residue left from the cutting stage then just change to a polishing pad??
I use 3D One Hybrid almost everyday at work, it makes the job so faster and easier, the coconut scent seems like a useless thing but when polishing a car for 6-8 hours it's nice to have this odor instead of chemical products.
Didn't knew that you can change the buffing pad to finish it without removing the product.
Same here.
I keep a bottle of ACA500 around for those heavily damaged and / or stubborn clear coats.
The shop also has a lot of window tint and PPF installs going on. The dust resistant nature of 3D ONE also makes for a better environment for the film installation.
I have not used any of your products YET .. but .. I have to say ..especially with a rotary ... some of your 3D products are amazing!
oh yeah!
deepsquat600 95% of 3D polishes are demo’d using a rotary. They say you can use a DA, but I’m not sure how effective it’s gonna be, and not solely based on because a rotary is more powerful. IMO, 3D abrasives are geared for rotaries.
@@qwikss7522
yeah .. I have seen a few independent reviews... they still rate VERY high ( apex detail) .. but I agree,,rotarty is amazing ( I have no skill with one ) ..DA ..still good ..I will buy some for the next car I do to compare to Sonax and Griots ,,I think it will do fine
@@qwikss7522 They work perfectly with a DA. I use forced rotation units from Flex and Rupes and see excellent results.
@@qwikss7522 your ok with a DA just no wool pad on a DA
Some of the best product I have ever used . Always great results!
What polisher is that???
That is a customized Flex PE14 rotary buffer.
I just ordered a bottle of 3D one and spider pads from Autogeek yesterday I hope we don’t have any issues with the products.
Is this good to use just for removing swirls?
Don why don't you replace the protectant when your done with the foam pad? Just curious. Not trying to be a know it all
After applying 3D one to a vehicle, can I apply a wax or ceramic coating over top of it? Or would you just recommend using a polishing pad buffer to bring out the shine instead? Didn't know if I should let it dry first and then hand apply a different wax or ceramic coating to the vehicle or not? Would appreciate the feedback, Thanks!
check out the channel Pan the Organizer. He's a great resource for professional detailing. Its how i heard about this product
This is a "one does all" product, so you can cut with a heavy pad, polish with a polishing pad, and finish with a finishing pad. If you want to bring up that final gloss with 3D ONE, use their black finishing pad, or something similar.
No need to let 3D ONE dry on the surface, as it is a pure abrasive polish, without any protective waxes or sealants. The ceramic in the formula has nothing to do with the protection of the paint from the external elements, rather it was added to the formula to protect the paint from heat during the polishing process.
After the final wipe of 3D ONE you can go straight to wax, or sealant. Use a panel wipe before applying a ceramic coating.
Hi! What machine and pads are using please?
Not available on Amazon.
From India,can I take dealership?
Is 3d one for all car colors or there is one for blue, dark deep blue, white, black? I need for dark deep metalic blue color because I have few deep scratches they are so much deep and they aren't big! Could 3d one help me to remove scratches and give bright shiny color?? Please help me this is my first car and I don't have to much experience!
It's my go to product
Do I got to worry about burning the paint with this stuff
Hey. I'm sorry to trouble you. Advise how to work polish 3D one on a rotary machine. thank
Am i able to use this product on chrome wheels?
Still waiting to see if you guys can use tge 3401 vg flex
Can you do this same demonstration with a DA?
great stuff!!!
Can it be used in the sun
So it's the same thing as hd adapt?
Do u have product for nano ceramic?
Looking forward to finally using 3D One on a detail I have this weekend.
One point I'll suggest is that perhaps consider replacing the word "remove" with blending or leveling. Just something other than remove. There's technically no way to remove a scratch as what is actually happening is that you're blending or leveling the clear coat to reduce the appearance of the scratch and in some cases yes, completely remove it's appearance.
I only stress this as I often discuss detailing with customers and layman that are under the impression that they can actually remove just the scratch and in-turn fail to realize that what is actually happening is the clear coat around the scratch is simply being leveled.
On that particular one I would suggest to the owner that we fill the deeper part of the scratch and level it to the surrounding area as best we can. I find using a super small airbrush / kit from the hobby store to fill and blend areas like this. Once dry and cured a very light wet sand is all that's needed and then it's pretty easy from there to level everything and blend the area just about fully.
point taken
I have COMPLETELY removed scratches for almost 30 years. It’s called water sanding. Sand the clear until it’s gone and then polish it back out. Sometimes it IS too deep but if you have enough clear it can be done easily. Takes a lot of experience to know when to stop.
@@chrismcclure71 whatever one calls it doesn't change the fact that it's simply leveling the clear around the scratch or defect thus reducing it, thinning said clear/finish, etc. I too have over 35 years of detailing and painting experience.
My point was for the average person to better understand what is happening and the sensitivity and care that must be taken. Especially with modern day water based and super thin paint systems.
100% agree that it takes experience and really, a good paint gauge to know when to stop. Key isn't to just avoid burn-through it's to leave enough clear to protect and in many cases with certain Euro brands the UV Layer within the clear settles in the top layer of the clear coat too. Remove too much while leaving some still causes potential problems down the road.
Is it okay to buff off the product in a circular motion like that? This will not leave swirls? Curious
yes, it's fine. Your gonna wax it after the one anyway right?
Correct, I am still learning and didn’t want to add any more defects with the circular motion. I am going to use one this weekend and have always buffed off in straight lines but didn’t know if it was okay to use circular motion
@@MyTeamLowes48 you will want to inspect your microfiber towel before wiping and you can go in lines if you like.
3D Products will do, I did find my new microfiber towels I was using was leaving micro marring. What do you recommend for a towel to remove the compound/wax etc
@@MyTeamLowes48 here is an article on our blog about towels:
www.3dproducts.com/2018/12/05/the-right-towel-for-the-job/
You are just blending or leveling it you have to wet sand it with 2000 then buff it out
How is this different that AIO?
An AIO leaves protection on the paint. 3D One does not but removes deeper imperfections.
How do i buy this polish
Go to 3DProducts.com
what has more cut 3d aca 520 or 3d one?
3D ONE for sure.
Cool man
Nice
So I tried out 3D One and gotta say either I have a bad bottle or it's night and day bad compared to other HD Products. Product looks normal, white and creamy with a thinner consistency than others but that's not the issue. The bottle I have is clearly a different solvent / oil base and is so oily that it doesn't seem to haze over at all. VERY Difficult to wipe off as a result. Seems very oily and full of solvents. Is this normal? I can always put up a video.
It doesn't sound normal. Where did you buy it and when?
@@3DCarCare I purchased it through AutoGeek the week it was launched. I'll be contacting them today to hopefully exchange it.
@@ms3er396 ok
You're using way too much. Don't follow Mike Phillips recommendations for everything. He advocates using way to much product, which goes through more product and pads than necessary. For some it's absolutely ok, but 3D stuff is formulated to be concentrated, and requires less to prime and proceed through the polishing process.
Maybe three or four small drops can cover a lot of territory. I start with the four, and reload with two.
Also make sure your microfiber towels are clean, and the weave hasn't been worn out or melted through washing/drying. I've had old towels push the 3D One residue around instead of picking it up.
@@danlc95 it was a bad bottle. they long since replaced it. still not a huge fan of it but I do a lot of coatings and use the corresponding polishes for the brand.
Save your money and just wet sand it so much easier and then just buff afterwards