Good video. Good information. Good sanity check. Doesn’t speak to torque, but it’s clear in the comments that is taken care of - I’d check a Bentley manual for exact specs, depends on the exact bolts (big variances). Second, I agree that a ‘helper’ is … helpful. If not, though, it’s always fun to do the job once … or twice … until it comes out perfect.
No its your gearbox if you have automatic. Bearing may cause vibration and hits to the tunnel while accelerate. Rubber joint cause hits while switching from D to R or backwards.
mine is on 214000km. Engine is strong and does not wear out easily - well made. The car has had many minor fails though... mirrors, door locks, buttons, etc
@@peterkoss1312 this noise is definitely coming from u joint as you say there is nothing else that could be causing the noise. i already have my second bmw e60 and both had this noise and both times it came from the u joint, you have to replace the whole cardan shaft because the u joint cannot be replaced individually. if the center support bearing is broken, the car vibrates at around 80 km/h and if the flexible propshaft coupling joint (guibo) is broken, it also makes a noise but not a metallic click. of course a differential can also make a metal noise but you can tell if the noise is coming from the back or from the middle of the car,. sry for my bad english
Hi Arnold. Found your video and it is quite interesting and thorough. Please post your contact details if you don't mind, I'd like to bring my car to get a guibo change. Thanks!
BMWs are the biggest pile of crap when it comes to working on these vehicles. To change a starter on a BMW you must remove most of the under hood components on the drivers side. They are a software nightmare. And now you have to remove basically the entire exhaust system, heat shields, and crossbars just to get to the drive shaft. This idiotic engineering scheme by BMW was obviously implemented so they can make money at their dealer service centers. I would advise anyone interested in buying a BMW to think twice and look to an alternative luxury vehicle.
As an engineer... Nope, nope, and nope. You're wrong pretty much all the way around. Yes, these vehicles are harder to work on than your typical econobox camary or piece of shit impala. That's obvious. The why of it is where you couldn't be more wrong. See, with high performance vehicles comes tight packaging requirements, for a bunch of different reasons. Weight distribution, weight management (keeping the weight low), and keeping everything stiff. This means less open space just about every where. You want no extra metal adding weight, and you want as little unbraced or non structurally supported open space as possible. These cavities introduce flex as forces of the car during cornering often focus there. Think of them as flex concentrations, similar in concept to stress concentrations. Ultimately, better performing cars are going to be more integrally designed (as opposed go modular) and are going to be far tighter packaged, which naturally leads to more complicated maintenance procedures. An automotive engineer at BMW's #1 priority is performance. Reliability is probably 3rd or 4th place. If you want something easy to work on and reliable, buy a corolla, not a luxury sports sedan (from ANY of the luxury makers, including Cadillac).
You have issues bud id rather work on these cars than a damn honda civic or a Silverado nor a freaking f150 I can keep on goin chuckle fuck ..seems to me the ones who run their mouth about these cars are either to young to own one or just stupid and don't own a car .
![[Eng Sub] BMW E46 Flex disc (guibo) and drive shaft center support bearing replacement DIY](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cUH9_4Zm9Xg/mqdefault.jpg)
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Your tutorial are very good, solve my problems. Keep on doing tutorial on Mercedes Benz. Thank you.
Fantastic video my friend 👍
Good video. Good information. Good sanity check. Doesn’t speak to torque, but it’s clear in the comments that is taken care of - I’d check a Bentley manual for exact specs, depends on the exact bolts (big variances).
Second, I agree that a ‘helper’ is … helpful. If not, though, it’s always fun to do the job once … or twice … until it comes out perfect.
What are systems when this center support os bad and or guibo bushing??
Thank you very much!
Did it fix the cow bell noise?
I dont think so. That sound is 99% from from the driveshaft CV joint that need to be changed or regreased. Hope this helps
Hi,i Have the same problem on BMW e87,that kick when changing gears IT s caused by driveshaft bearing?
No its your gearbox if you have automatic. Bearing may cause vibration and hits to the tunnel while accelerate. Rubber joint cause hits while switching from D to R or backwards.
love your tutorials and accent. african?
thank you. South Africa
Poor guy, what a shithole
Isn't the driveshaft few mm longer now because bearing was thicker?
I think it slides on top of the shaft
How about the car generally, are you happy with it? Any maintenance problems? What engine is on? I am thinking about buying one like that also. Thnk's
mine is on 214000km. Engine is strong and does not wear out easily - well made. The car has had many minor fails though... mirrors, door locks, buttons, etc
DONT FORGET ABOUT THE SPEAKER SYSTEM those fail on all years
@@MBS.. ya true my driver side tweeter and speaker aren't working
Can this cause that your car vibrates at accelartion about 90 km/h ?
should not
Mine has a vibration around that speed, only on deceleration. I think it's the bearing, the guibo is also bad on my car.
What brand did you use for the parts?
The bearing was NTN. Flex joint probably original BMW or Meyle.
That is the most ghetto wheel chock I've ever seen i was semi impressed up to that point.
i bet the metal clicking noise what you showed at the beginning of the video has not gone.
the noise is probably coming from the driveshaft u-joint.
the repair shown is the fix for what is described.
@@ecologicaltime that's right.
@@beekaow4365 i think you are correct . i do not see how the guibo could possibly make that noise. U joints however could and would make that noise
@@peterkoss1312
this noise is definitely coming from u joint as you say there is nothing else that could be causing the noise. i already have my second bmw e60 and both had this noise and both times it came from the u joint, you have to replace the whole cardan shaft because the u joint cannot be replaced individually. if the center support bearing is broken, the car vibrates at around 80 km/h and if the flexible propshaft coupling joint (guibo) is broken, it also makes a noise but not a metallic click. of course a differential can also make a metal noise but you can tell if the noise is coming from the back or from the middle of the car,.
sry for my bad english
You sound like Arnold 😂
Torque?
www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e65-750i-lim/
He says to his "helper"...."careful careful" and picks up a carpenters hammers and uses a screw driver as a drift.
he was about to yank the frame which would tear the rubber dampener, then i would have to replace the whole unit as the rubber is bonded to the frame.
Arnold? Is that you
shucks you found me, i was undercover as a mechanic :)
Afrikaans accent
LMFAO!!! the most underated comment of this year
Hi Arnold. Found your video and it is quite interesting and thorough. Please post your contact details if you don't mind, I'd like to bring my car to get a guibo change. Thanks!
Kini disk bmw 16
The rubber gets old and cracks. No point changing that bearing alone. If you want to save money don't buy a car like this.
BMWs are the biggest pile of crap when it comes to working on these vehicles. To change a starter on a BMW you must remove most of the under hood components on the drivers side. They are a software nightmare. And now you have to remove basically the entire exhaust system, heat shields, and crossbars just to get to the drive shaft. This idiotic engineering scheme by BMW was obviously implemented so they can make money at their dealer service centers. I would advise anyone interested in buying a BMW to think twice and look to an alternative luxury vehicle.
working on MERCs is not that different...
As an engineer... Nope, nope, and nope. You're wrong pretty much all the way around. Yes, these vehicles are harder to work on than your typical econobox camary or piece of shit impala. That's obvious. The why of it is where you couldn't be more wrong. See, with high performance vehicles comes tight packaging requirements, for a bunch of different reasons. Weight distribution, weight management (keeping the weight low), and keeping everything stiff. This means less open space just about every where. You want no extra metal adding weight, and you want as little unbraced or non structurally supported open space as possible. These cavities introduce flex as forces of the car during cornering often focus there. Think of them as flex concentrations, similar in concept to stress concentrations. Ultimately, better performing cars are going to be more integrally designed (as opposed go modular) and are going to be far tighter packaged, which naturally leads to more complicated maintenance procedures. An automotive engineer at BMW's #1 priority is performance. Reliability is probably 3rd or 4th place. If you want something easy to work on and reliable, buy a corolla, not a luxury sports sedan (from ANY of the luxury makers, including Cadillac).
You have issues bud id rather work on these cars than a damn honda civic or a Silverado nor a freaking f150 I can keep on goin chuckle fuck ..seems to me the ones who run their mouth about these cars are either to young to own one or just stupid and don't own a car .