I appreciate that you show the bad results along with the good. I have had similar problems with hand launch and histart gliders. It's interesting to see how you try to find solutions.
I have made a lot of small gliders like this one and it surprising how much noes weight you need and i always go for the 3.7 gram cheep servos or even the 9g ones with cut down arms to fit the narrow body if i can get them in ,there is a lot of presser on the rudder off the high start if you have to correct on the way up .On batteries lipo's we all use them but the old plastic battery holders for 4 aaa or 4 aa if its a bigger glider are just as good and you dont need to add lead .I use the flat ones for narrow bodys and the blocks for bigger gliders but do tape the batteries in as they tend to pop out had that happen off the high start not good !! .The other solution is make your own body design by lengthening the nose a couple of inches this puts the weight further away from the CofG meaning less weight to balance it .I also found a bit of wind was better than no wind at all off the high start .I must get all my high start kit serviced . And a good tip for line i use 22lb fishing braid the different colour every 10m one easy to see and offers no stretch or wind resistance .On ebay or i can send you some . Good look and happy flying
I'll bet you'll have this thing sorted by tomorrow, if you haven't already. When it comes to small servos, one thing always on my mind is the size (strength) of the gear train. I'll go a gram or two heavier for a beefier gear train. Happy landings!
For small outdoor models i never go smaller than the Tower Pro 5g. On those little servos you can remove the lower part of the casing and use tape to hold the electronics in place, if you are worried about weight. But i would not of thought you would be that critical on weight. Also weigh your servos some include the weight of the servo lead, some do not.
Their website does say 3.7g servos? I'm contemplating a build myself on the micro size... and I have one of those all in one boards that has the 1.7g liner servos built into the board for the DSMX Spektrum radios.... which I'm not sure how big/small a plane I should build to use.
@@A470RCSoaring Ah, sorry, I meant what you have in there might be too little for it, slightly heavier, would work better. I know my 1.7g were too light for some of what I was trying to do.
The instructions say the C.G. should be on the main spar. Mine was slightly behind when I 1st flew it. It then needed 4 grams nose weight to bring it to where it should be. Often the C.G. on instructions are incorrect so I like to set it roughly then make small adjustments to get it right. My 1st adjustment was spot on luckily and is on the main spar.
I appreciate that you show the bad results along with the good. I have had similar problems with hand launch and histart gliders. It's interesting to see how you try to find solutions.
I second that
Thanks, Steve. Just discovered your channel and I enjoy it very much. Keep the good work and Happy Landings.
Thanks for subscribing, I hope you enjoy my future content just as much.
@@A470RCSoaring I meant "Keep UP the good work." Many thanks from an old Thermal Hunter.
Fun watch. Boy, do you folks have some nice places to fly! I’m sure you’ll get that little guy sorted out. 🛫
Nice cameo by Mrs H!
She’ll be wanting royalties soon 😆
I have made a lot of small gliders like this one and it surprising how much noes weight you need and i always go for the 3.7 gram cheep servos or even the 9g ones with cut down arms to fit the narrow body if i can get them in ,there is a lot of presser on the rudder off the high start if you have to correct on the way up .On batteries lipo's we all use them but the old plastic battery holders for 4 aaa or 4 aa if its a bigger glider are just as good and you dont need to add lead .I use the flat ones for narrow bodys and the blocks for bigger gliders but do tape the batteries in as they tend to pop out had that happen off the high start not good !! .The other solution is make your own body design by lengthening the nose a couple of inches this puts the weight further away from the CofG meaning less weight to balance it .I also found a bit of wind was better than no wind at all off the high start .I must get all my high start kit serviced . And a good tip for line i use 22lb fishing braid the different colour every 10m one easy to see and offers no stretch or wind resistance .On ebay or i can send you some . Good look and happy flying
I'll bet you'll have this thing sorted by tomorrow, if you haven't already.
When it comes to small servos, one thing always on my mind is the size (strength) of the gear train. I'll go a gram or two heavier for a beefier gear train.
Happy landings!
Maybe not tomorrow but I will fit the new bits tomorrow eve then hopefully fly it next Saturday.
I built the big boy about a decade back man was that a build
For small outdoor models i never go smaller than the Tower Pro 5g.
On those little servos you can remove the lower part of the casing and use tape to hold the electronics in place, if you are worried about weight. But i would not of thought you would be that critical on weight. Also weigh your servos some include the weight of the servo lead, some do not.
You can check the CG with out throwing it. I usually do that first.
What's the weight in it's current configuration? Nice progress. Looking forward to part 2.
The current weight is 110g
Their website does say 3.7g servos? I'm contemplating a build myself on the micro size... and I have one of those all in one boards that has the 1.7g liner servos built into the board for the DSMX Spektrum radios.... which I'm not sure how big/small a plane I should build to use.
I couldn’t locate any 3.7g servos in the UK, but I’m sure I’ll be ok with the slightly heavier ones I have from Hi-Tec
@@A470RCSoaring Ah, sorry, I meant what you have in there might be too little for it, slightly heavier, would work better. I know my 1.7g were too light for some of what I was trying to do.
Where was the c of g to start with and where did it end up? Was the original c of g, off the plan, in the wrong place?
The instructions say the C.G. should be on the main spar. Mine was slightly behind when I 1st flew it. It then needed 4 grams nose weight to bring it to where it should be. Often the C.G. on instructions are incorrect so I like to set it roughly then make small adjustments to get it right. My 1st adjustment was spot on luckily and is on the main spar.