32 Ford Rebuild Part 6. Installing 36 Ford Wishbones to a Factory K Member
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- In this video we fabricate a mount for the 36 Ford rear wishbones to the original 32 K member, as well as build axle brackets for the Dana 44.
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Music by Christian Head
christianhead....
Thanks for watching!
Well let it be said you can watch me all you want because I always watch you. Guy of your caliber Lee I will take the credit. All I can say it is a privilege to know you. Ok get back to the 32 lol thanks Lee 👍🏼👍🏼🛠️🇨🇦🛠️
When welding on a tube housing, you must weld 360deg, if you don't the housing will warp and cause wheel bearing failure; welding the loose top piece will prevent this. I once did a 1/2 weld job on a '56 chev housing and the wheel bearings lasted only 2-300 miles before chewing themselves up. Had to get another housing and start all over.
Awesome 👍 job guys I really appreciate all your Tips/Tricks and video's keep up with all your Build's and Video's 😎🤙🥃🍷
Project's looking great 👍 guys🤙
Brother😎 Yah know what's best,.... keep it Rodding 🤙
I always want your videos to continue. I am thinking about axles twist. Will get back to you.
Not too keen on that 1/4" tab as the whole rear end attachment point. It has to rotate with the up and down movement so would you leave the bolt a bit loose? with body roll in hard cornering the tab will be stressed and so will the radius arms. Stressed in addition to the already over stressed condition from the no torque tube situation. Some sort of spherical joint, or even a rubber bush would improve things immensely. One thing that is sometimes done is to weld a tab on each radius rod so you can bolt them to each other near the front end. That can help keep the alignment. (hard to explain). Did you achieve the rear axle set-back with your new mounts? The old ones were so janky it was hard to tell. As to setting the axle back 3/4" further than stock, that might not be possible due to axle/crossmember fouling especially if lowered a bit. The Dana might have more clearance than a stock banjo so it might go further back. The 32 K member almost requires the use of a 32 type rear mount in the gearbox. Yours is open drive. I don't know how you will resolve that. It would be a shame to be the guy that does end up cutting the middle out of the K-member. Re the axle brackets Just welding around the lower half will bend the axle. If you go 360 around, while the strength might not be improved greatly, the chance of distortion will be reduced. This is not a keyboard warrior at this end, if you watch my videos you can see that I put all this stuff into practice. I also had 40 years plus as an engineer at an auto manufacturer. I will continue to watch with interest. All the best, Mart in England.
I think the axle is in the correct location, it all measures out okay, but like I mentioned in the video, I’d like to set the body on to confirm it all looks right.
The engine and transmission came out of the this car, with the open drive end. It was mounted through the k member with hanging mounts behind it. I’m planning on doing something similar
Hi Lee and Shannon . All the frame episodes were great to watch . The Model A engine install was too . Loved the new top on the Model T sedan . My big brother's '32 sedan has had a smoked acrylic insert for decades . Red crushed velvet interior is just as old . It's 1975 all over again . Back in 1977 there was a carshow at the Winnipeg Convention Centre on October 1st and 2nd . Yes , it was on a Saturday and Sunday just like this year . I went with my Dad and big brother . I was 16 back then now the 1 is on the other side of the 6 . I still have my ticket to that carshow , it's in perfect shape in a photo album . Amazing that's 45 years ago . Keep up the great work , always look forward to the next episode !
That’s really cool!
Though I am building a Chevy from the 60s, I appreciate the knowledge you share. Most of car building is solving problems, and you're very good at it.
Cool! Thanks so much
Speaking with squeek the other day. Did you know his roadster does not use rear radius arms on his closed driveline. I was shocked he said on a closed driveline all the rear radius rods do is keep the rear end from rolling under braking. Learn something new every day lol.
No rear radius rods at all?! Crazy! That’s a lot of side to side pressure when cornering. But it seems to work, that car has been together longer than we’ve been alive
@@LGKustoms yep! Just torque tube and spring. I was amazed to see that because we've both seen him send it! But it makes sense when you think about it because the rods just mount to the torque tube anyway. It's even more amazing that it taking the punishment of a Olds Rocket. A flathead would even stress it I imagine.
Thanks for sharing! Enjoyed
Thanks!
Holy crapola those guys were brave, driving a car with the welds like that on the wishbone mounts. I think the halfmoon versions will be just fine, when they are welded properly on the axle.
Pretty impressive they held up isn’t it!
@@LGKustoms Yeah it is. There must be some good penetration in those welds, just curious, were they welded by oxy/acetylene?
@@1fknhpycmpr355 I’m assuming stick, but can’t say for sure. It was probably done before I was born haha
The halfmoon weld IS NOT FINE-- the tube will warp if a 360 weld is not done.
The half saddle will be fine ,look at that bad weld that was on it before it will be 100 times better . Great job .
Thanks
Just found your channel, interesting stuff. We’ll done.
Thanks!
Hoop shrinkage takes place on welds around pie or tubes. By welding all the way around the distortion is the same all the way around the tube . Therefore the tube remains straight. To weld half way around causes the tube to bend handrail fabricators have a special tool to straighten the top rail on a handrail to make it straight after welding. Axle manufactures use a hydraulic press to straighten after welding.
That makes sense
Christian's music is a nice change! Maybe you can talk him into letting you use some Rod Iron Haulers stuff.
He gave me a Rod Iron cd to use! I’m not sure if my editing skills can work around vocals yet… instrumental music is much easier haha
Awesome job on the brackets. Could you imagine the stuff on race car we could make with that plasma table oh my gawd lol awesome video 👍🏼👍🏼🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦🛠️
Badge this plasma table is incredible! I use it almost everyday!
I wish I had half the talent you have keep up with the good content. 👍🏿
Haha thanks. Every hour you spend in the garage, is an hour more talent earned.
Definitely going to be a beauty compared to what she was when you rolled in there with it, that altitude drop the cleaning up of everything and get rid of that construction orange paint can't wait to see this I'm glad I'm following along
So much orange!!!! Haha
My thoughts would be with a spring saddle the clamping force from the u bolts is where the strength is. With the earlier design it's the welded joint that's the stress point, I don't think the engine would be a problem, my opinion, it's the shock loads from the road, eg pot holes and such. Having said I'm a big fan of your channel keep up the gr8 work thank you.
The u bolts clamping down would definitely help!
They, the spring pads, were known to tear free on tri-five Chevs
Really enjoying this build !!
Thanks!
Those plasma tables look like a lot of fun . I’m sure you could of cut those gussets out with a cut off wheel in a quarter of the time but why would you do that when you have a table ? lol . I love your style and the channel Lee , thanks for the free hot rod education. Give Doris a rub for me lol !
Thanks Mike! If you include the drawing time, you’re probably right on the gussets. But it would be close, it’s pretty quick! And once I’ve drawn them, it saves it so next time I just have to press start and it cuts another one out.
Oh ya , I would think a half saddle would do . Thanks for making me think… lol
I always thought the full circle mounts were used on a new housing build that hasn't had the flanges welded on yet...
Maybe?
So my hairpin mounts only go halfway around, they came that way. I could never see the point in them going all the way around.
I agree on the front mount too, on todays roads you won’t be articulating the suspension anywhere near as much as it would have on a 1932 rural Saskatchewan corduroy road. It’ll be fine .
'70 street rod magazines recommend 360° to prevent warping the axle tubing if 180° gussets were welded. After sawing the ends off many 360° brackets were inserted during narrowing. Rodders weren't straightening the housings after welding.
That makes sense
@@LGKustoms It also provided the mail order fabricators liability protection if a segment was cut for installation.
Lee ,watching here in Australia your radius arm mount could work nicely with an adjustable rose joint mounted to your K member.not a criticism of your work just a thought.
Great idea!
Princess Auto seems to be the Canadian version of Harbor Freight. You need a manual tire machine of your very own. Surely they have them?
Haha I think I need a power tire machine more than a manual one haha
I just don’t have the shop space for a tire machine.
@@LGKustoms that's the nice thing with the manual machine, you can set 4 anchors in the floor, bolt it down when you need it and stash it under the bench or wherever when you don't.
I really like what you're doing with your builds and especially that you do your own upholstery which I've been watching some videos about so I can get my RUclips certification and start looking for a sewing machine on marketplace - because you know, I need another hobby...
Yes Sir,👍😎🤙
I'm sure that gusseted little 1/4 inch tab will last a long time but I would have been happier with a 3/4 chrome molly spherical rod end there instead. The wall thickness of the axle housing is the weakest point of those saddle plates welded to the axle. When the plate goes all the way around you get 360 degrees of contact to the housing. It doesn't matter if the plates are split because they should have been welded back together good enough so that if you cut that weld apart you can't tell the plate was ever cut. If you can't weld that good then honestly you shouldn't be welding ladder bar or 4 link plates on to anything, at least not for drag racing anyway. I've seen drag cars that had the plates tear off and the axle housing material went with the plates. That being said you could rev up that flat head to a scarry rpm and dump the clutch and I believe either the clutch or 3 speed or would crater before those saddle plates you made would ever have any kind of problems. That 32 is probably going to have the best treatment of it's existence now and I doubt if anything you built this episode will ever have any problems.
Great idea with the rod end! If this ever fails, I think that’s a great plan B.
I'd been hard pressed to have not used that old so ket under the k member. Will the axil rotation of the front crossmember stress that 1/4 tab?
It might stress a bit, but I’m pretty confident it’ll be okay. And if it’s not, then we’ll go with plan B haha
How is the engine swap on the Comet coming along?
Just got the third, and correct flex plate a few days ago. What an ordeal haha
@@LGKustoms Sorry to hear it took three tries. I hope CPT came though for you.
The main reason to weld all the way around the rear axle is that if you only weld one side, as the welds cool they can shrink enough to warp the axle housing. Welding all the way around will shrink more evenly. If you only weld the front and rear of your brackets you will have less distortion and still be strong enough for what you are building. Here's a video of how another H.A.M.B . member straightened a torque tube, but it could be applied to your axle if you find it has warped. ruclips.net/video/k83KMCRdZfk/видео.html
That makes sense. Thanks
Me piace molto grazie mille Salta Argentina restaurantor auto
Not a cowboy but janky + janky = janky your whole world, ( and Deloris's ) is riding on this I'd make the tab thicker dude...still I love your channel
Thanks! I think it’ll be okay, it was on the road for years with the same style, just less reenforced, and showed no signs of distress.
I’ll monitor it, and if I feel it needs to be addressed again, then we’ll make a new design!