Thank you! Love your content by the way, not sure how I wasn't subscribed but I must have only been with my other account. I really love this color as well, although it isn't original, whoever painted it did a good job. It's technically a Town & Country trim, so I believe that means that this car used to be a woody. I would have loved to see that, but at least there are other examples online. I'll have to check out that Pontiac. I've really been itching to get a pre-emissions era vehicle in the fleet. And of course, keep it all original!
@@80sappliances I actually might be picking up a 1966 Ford Galaxie 500 4 door hardtop this month if it comes to fruition. Everything appears to be all there on that car but needs some work since it has 162,000 original miles on it judging by the shape the transmission is in. Everything on that car will be kept as original as possible but the thing I am changing is I’ll have it repainted blue (has a blue interior), it’s white but don’t particularly care for white cars since that’s what most modern car colors are anyways. Of course, there will be those people who will tell me I am foolish to put money in a car like that since it’s not a popular car which is true, but it would be more foolish to spend over $50K and up for a new car that will depreciate as soon as it’s driven off the lot not to mention the interest. Another thing most people don’t realize, is most parts for these cars you see on the road are only available at dealerships where they can charge whatever they want for said part. Someone had to pay $5600 (might as well round it off to $6000) to get the taillights replaced on their 2018 Ford F150 Limited since water got inside, shorted a bunch of things out and basically disabled the vehicle in terms of it wouldn’t start or do anything. To add insult to injury, it’ll cost upwards of $40K to repair a dent on the bed of a Rivian truck since everything is all one piece. Once the truck is 5 to 8 years old at that point, might as well just junk it since it’ll outweigh the cost of the truck. Getting fed up with these outrageously complex modern vehicles that look like jellybeans.
@@seana806 that’s awesome. Hopefully everything works out. The more undesirable “boat” vehicles always go for so much less than the popular muscle car picks. But in all reality, they look just as good, are more comfortable, and usually share most of the same parts, as those were the parts they had and they weren’t going to redesign everything ground up, especially for a lower volume car. Still kind of the case today. Everything was much easier to modify back then as well without all the computer junk. But it is indeed insane the parts madness that goes on. They realized how much money they can make with proprietary parts. And then a step further locking the vehicle down until the repair is done by, preferably to them, the dealer, and almost certainly not the vehicle owner. There’s no money in that. I worked as a mechanic for a while, and the quality drop is huge. Plastic everything in the engine, granted even in the 70s/80s Fords and Chevys they were using nylon timing gears already (for “quieter operation”). But it’s way worse today. Everything is plastic, everything is cheap and designed to fail. They “wised up” and stopped overbuilding things. The Ford 1.0L ecoboost uses a rubber timing belt bathed in oil! With cam gear that’s tapered pressed on, no key way. The belt decomposes, clogs the oil pump, and at that point it’s much cheaper to replace the engine entirely or buy a whole new car. No excuse to be designed that way. The electric vehicles are even worse. Even if that rivians bed was repaired, the battery would follow not long after. No thanks. I have no plans to own anything post 2000 in my entire life. That extends far beyond cars too. The only hang up is that the parts for old cars produced today are often junk or just out of production, but with the simplicity and reliability of them parts rarely fail and could be fabricated much easier than something similar on a new vehicle. The only thing that really fails due to age though is rubber. Everything else usually comes down to abuse or general wear.
@@80sappliances I considered being a mechanic when I was younger but as soon as I saw the writing on the wall in terms of ridiculously complicated designs along with cheap plastic parts, I lost interest. Yeah, I saw a video uploaded by I Do Cars on that Ford Ecoboost with rubber belt soaked in oil. That engine is basically made to be thrown away if a major issue pops up with it. Almost any engine that’s of a interference design with overhead cams is simply made to fail, to add insult to injury they use a rubber timing belt which will snap and destroy the engine, at that point you might as well just junk the vehicle. Your Chrysler LaBaron uses a timing belt but thankfully it’s not a interference design, if the belt breaks, no damage is done, will just be stranded on the side of the road when that happens. I think Ford should just bring back their 300 inline 6 and make a 4 cylinder derivative, easily would have extremely reliable engines since there’s no timing chains or belts since it just uses a timing gear which will last the life of the engine. The Ford 300 inline 6 is possibly one of the most reliable engines in existence since there’s few moving parts inside compared to unnecessarily complicated overhead cam engines with guides and phasers which will need to be replaced to prevent the engine from self destructing. The Ford 221/260/289/302 was another very reliable engine from Ford, those could run just as long as the 300 inline 6 as long as the oil was changed every 3,000 miles along with driving them fairly easily. I Do Cars did a tear down of a 1990’s Ford 302, nothing catastrophic was wrong, just had wear on the main bearings from being driven fairly hard with not changing the oil as frequently. That particular engine was a good candidate for a rebuild and and easily run for 300,000+ miles without a single repair, just maintenance.
I'm planning on it. This video was thrown together with some clips I had of the car previously, and I didn't have any good driving ones to include this time around.
Wow, that’s one nice car! Love the color too! The color reminds me of a 1966 Pontiac Bonneville that’s on the Rare Classic Cars channel.
Thank you! Love your content by the way, not sure how I wasn't subscribed but I must have only been with my other account. I really love this color as well, although it isn't original, whoever painted it did a good job. It's technically a Town & Country trim, so I believe that means that this car used to be a woody. I would have loved to see that, but at least there are other examples online. I'll have to check out that Pontiac. I've really been itching to get a pre-emissions era vehicle in the fleet. And of course, keep it all original!
@@80sappliances I actually might be picking up a 1966 Ford Galaxie 500 4 door hardtop this month if it comes to fruition. Everything appears to be all there on that car but needs some work since it has 162,000 original miles on it judging by the shape the transmission is in. Everything on that car will be kept as original as possible but the thing I am changing is I’ll have it repainted blue (has a blue interior), it’s white but don’t particularly care for white cars since that’s what most modern car colors are anyways. Of course, there will be those people who will tell me I am foolish to put money in a car like that since it’s not a popular car which is true, but it would be more foolish to spend over $50K and up for a new car that will depreciate as soon as it’s driven off the lot not to mention the interest. Another thing most people don’t realize, is most parts for these cars you see on the road are only available at dealerships where they can charge whatever they want for said part. Someone had to pay $5600 (might as well round it off to $6000) to get the taillights replaced on their 2018 Ford F150 Limited since water got inside, shorted a bunch of things out and basically disabled the vehicle in terms of it wouldn’t start or do anything. To add insult to injury, it’ll cost upwards of $40K to repair a dent on the bed of a Rivian truck since everything is all one piece. Once the truck is 5 to 8 years old at that point, might as well just junk it since it’ll outweigh the cost of the truck. Getting fed up with these outrageously complex modern vehicles that look like jellybeans.
@@seana806 that’s awesome. Hopefully everything works out. The more undesirable “boat” vehicles always go for so much less than the popular muscle car picks. But in all reality, they look just as good, are more comfortable, and usually share most of the same parts, as those were the parts they had and they weren’t going to redesign everything ground up, especially for a lower volume car. Still kind of the case today. Everything was much easier to modify back then as well without all the computer junk. But it is indeed insane the parts madness that goes on. They realized how much money they can make with proprietary parts. And then a step further locking the vehicle down until the repair is done by, preferably to them, the dealer, and almost certainly not the vehicle owner. There’s no money in that. I worked as a mechanic for a while, and the quality drop is huge. Plastic everything in the engine, granted even in the 70s/80s Fords and Chevys they were using nylon timing gears already (for “quieter operation”). But it’s way worse today. Everything is plastic, everything is cheap and designed to fail. They “wised up” and stopped overbuilding things. The Ford 1.0L ecoboost uses a rubber timing belt bathed in oil! With cam gear that’s tapered pressed on, no key way. The belt decomposes, clogs the oil pump, and at that point it’s much cheaper to replace the engine entirely or buy a whole new car. No excuse to be designed that way. The electric vehicles are even worse. Even if that rivians bed was repaired, the battery would follow not long after. No thanks. I have no plans to own anything post 2000 in my entire life. That extends far beyond cars too. The only hang up is that the parts for old cars produced today are often junk or just out of production, but with the simplicity and reliability of them parts rarely fail and could be fabricated much easier than something similar on a new vehicle. The only thing that really fails due to age though is rubber. Everything else usually comes down to abuse or general wear.
If I get my way I will have enough land and capital to fabricate any part I will need in the future.
@@80sappliances I considered being a mechanic when I was younger but as soon as I saw the writing on the wall in terms of ridiculously complicated designs along with cheap plastic parts, I lost interest.
Yeah, I saw a video uploaded by I Do Cars on that Ford Ecoboost with rubber belt soaked in oil. That engine is basically made to be thrown away if a major issue pops up with it. Almost any engine that’s of a interference design with overhead cams is simply made to fail, to add insult to injury they use a rubber timing belt which will snap and destroy the engine, at that point you might as well just junk the vehicle. Your Chrysler LaBaron uses a timing belt but thankfully it’s not a interference design, if the belt breaks, no damage is done, will just be stranded on the side of the road when that happens.
I think Ford should just bring back their 300 inline 6 and make a 4 cylinder derivative, easily would have extremely reliable engines since there’s no timing chains or belts since it just uses a timing gear which will last the life of the engine. The Ford 300 inline 6 is possibly one of the most reliable engines in existence since there’s few moving parts inside compared to unnecessarily complicated overhead cam engines with guides and phasers which will need to be replaced to prevent the engine from self destructing.
The Ford 221/260/289/302 was another very reliable engine from Ford, those could run just as long as the 300 inline 6 as long as the oil was changed every 3,000 miles along with driving them fairly easily. I Do Cars did a tear down of a 1990’s Ford 302, nothing catastrophic was wrong, just had wear on the main bearings from being driven fairly hard with not changing the oil as frequently. That particular engine was a good candidate for a rebuild and and easily run for 300,000+ miles without a single repair, just maintenance.
You should take it for a ride next time.
I'm planning on it. This video was thrown together with some clips I had of the car previously, and I didn't have any good driving ones to include this time around.