Later in the video I show how to check or correct the Recall, If for any reason you are unsure or having issues with this problem, bring it to your local authorized SRAM dealer and they can assist you with the proper fix for this Recall
when i saw his face for the first time i knew he was not the mechanic type, just the one selling bikes, such dumb mistakes are not expected, or expected i guess😅
you sound like a donkey, you sound like the mechanic who thinks they know everything but really dont and no one can stand your personality, I have met plenty of those guys in my time in this industry
ruclips.net/video/gYQAWoP8cng/видео.html look for reference, literally I dont think my lack of a quarter turn more will fix it when I did it 4 times.... there is obviously a recall for a reason
Hey @gcperformance18, I appreciate your videos, yet I’m gonna disagree with how you approached this. Based on the video you linked, the bolt was back out 2 full turns 3 times, and then 3 full turns 1 time. That’s 9 full turns. You did 2 half turns 4 times, which is 4 full turns; that’s less than half of what’s recommended. I don’t own sram components, so I don’t have a chicken in this fight, but as Reacher says, “Details matter”. Anyhow, still love the channel.
@@GCPerformance18 By not doing complete turns you are only cleaning half as many threads on the bolt. It is not necessarily how many times you do it if you do not do it correctly.
Funny, I had this exact problem with my shifters yesterday. I removed the clamp bolt, cleaned the threads and did the tighten, loosen thing quite a few times before getting it to correct tightness. great vids, keep em coming.
I had the same issue with my build, waaayy too much threadlocker. I removed the excessive threadlocker with a lighter and a steel brush, same story for the brake mount.
yea super shitty, kind of sucks they did this but not the biggest issue, they are issues if consumers bought online and didnt fix whne installing themselves that could be dangerous
Two Sram upgrade kits purchased in July - The first kit needed way more torque to keep the shifter hoods from moving. Both clamps eventually broke. The replacements I ordered off amazon also required way more torque, but they are no longer moving.
Thanks for the update. Good job on keeping us informed. Pity you don’t know what a full rotation means. No wonder it’s not working, with only 1.5 turns. Lol
ruclips.net/video/gYQAWoP8cng/видео.html look for reference, literally I dont think my lack of a quarter turn more will fix it when I did it 4 times.... there is obviously a recall for a reason
RIP to the impending death of all the carbon handlebars from thousands of people overtightening their hoods after discovering they were even loose thanks to this recall.
If you don't go past 6 nm on the bolt you wouldn't have it on the clamp. The problem here is that the clamp itself doesn't get tight even if you torque the bolt to spec.
Grant I would back out the entire bolt clean both bolt and clamp free of thread locker, then reapply red thread locker to the bolt. Also, wound interesting if you could compare the old bolt/clamp assembly to the new replacement bolt/clamp assembly to see if there are any differences
As long as it is moving there is not much clamping force on handlebar. So theoretically you can over tighten it until you break into the thread locker and just back it off as soon as you feel it is clamping. But we know we don’t wanna risk it on the actual handlebar. So if you take it off and try it on a dummy handlebar, I think over tightening will fix it.
Might have missed: question: does the recall only apply to “aftermarket” hoods as compared to full grupos purchased? I don’t get that specific language in the announcement. But… sounds like the bolts just got too much loctite applied at the factory and just needs to be removed a little bit with this drill.
its 2 from sram officially, and even that what would 3 do when you back it off the part that matters most is the first initial part of it..... ruclips.net/video/gYQAWoP8cng/видео.html look for reference, literally I dont think my lack of a quarter turn would matter there is a recall for a reason.
@@GCPerformance18 so by backing off full turns you're allowing the threadlock material to move through the narrow channels on the thread to lower the friction which causing a premature click at 6Nm torque. While this still warrants a recall it doesn't mean the workaround can't be effective. To be honest I'm surprised SRAM haven't advised to completely remove the bolt and brush the threads after this exercise to remove the excess thread locker.
it's not weird, you just got one that is not affected, a friend had one move exactly that way a few weeks ago in a race after a gravel patch, and it might be that
I'm pretty much a mechanical anti-talent, so glad I'm not the only one who does the "standard remedy" for a given problem only to find it didn’t fix it. (My nightmare is fixing a rubbing disk brake, shouldn't be that hard, but.... 😢).
I had this exact problem. Noticed it immediately before taping the bars. No clue it was a recall. Recognized there was way too much loctite. Took it off the bar, threaded screw all the way down, unscrewed, put back in bar, worked perfect. This method seems suspicious….
I rounded my Bolt its currently still in there :( any suggestions on how to get that out? These Bolts are trash only used my tourque wrench tried fiddling aroound with the Position of the shifters and it rounded the Bolt after three changes like wtf its a Bolt... sram its not that hard...
SRAM had a recall because they had too much thread locker, but Shimano had a faulty design for years and ignored it until they were forced into a recall. But, SRAM is who you are mad at?
It’s a loctite issue. Add a quarter turn to the bolt and then gently bump the shifter to see if it moves. They’ve gone out of their way to issue a real recall for a minor issue, basically the opposite of Shimano, who still haven’t issued a full recall on its cranks.
@@VeloSyndicate Still better than not recalling anything. Shimano never recalled its badly designed DA 9000 cassettes even though they constantly creaked and some eventually broke at the carbon carrier for the three largest cogs. They stealth redesigned the carrier with 4 additional rivets and kept selling the old ones until the supply was exhausted. A cassette is a safety critical piece of equipment. I'd literally never seen a complain on any public forum about the SRAM shifter clamp issue prior to the recall notice. Have you?
@@VeloSyndicate So are you referring to the current recall which can be solved with a simple tightening of the clamp or removal of the factory installed loctite? Or are you referring to the 2013 recall, coincidentally around the same time Shimano issued a rare recall of its own BR-CX75, BR-R515 and BR-R315 brakes? Full recalls are better than none.
Later in the video I show how to check or correct the Recall, If for any reason you are unsure or having issues with this problem, bring it to your local authorized SRAM dealer and they can assist you with the proper fix for this Recall
A full turn is 360 degrees, not 180. Each half turn you count as a full turn.
when i saw his face for the first time i knew he was not the mechanic type, just the one selling bikes, such dumb mistakes are not expected, or expected i guess😅
you sound like a donkey, you sound like the mechanic who thinks they know everything but really dont and no one can stand your personality, I have met plenty of those guys in my time in this industry
ruclips.net/video/gYQAWoP8cng/видео.html look for reference, literally I dont think my lack of a quarter turn more will fix it when I did it 4 times.... there is obviously a recall for a reason
Hey @gcperformance18, I appreciate your videos, yet I’m gonna disagree with how you approached this. Based on the video you linked, the bolt was back out 2 full turns 3 times, and then 3 full turns 1 time. That’s 9 full turns. You did 2 half turns 4 times, which is 4 full turns; that’s less than half of what’s recommended. I don’t own sram components, so I don’t have a chicken in this fight, but as Reacher says, “Details matter”. Anyhow, still love the channel.
@@GCPerformance18 By not doing complete turns you are only cleaning half as many threads on the bolt. It is not necessarily how many times you do it if you do not do it correctly.
Funny, I had this exact problem with my shifters yesterday. I removed the clamp bolt, cleaned the threads and did the tighten, loosen thing quite a few times before getting it to correct tightness. great vids, keep em coming.
thanks so much and I am glad it worked out for you!!!
Maybe it SRAM’s way of getting past the UCI rules, then after the race you turn it back out?
😂😂😂
I had the same issue with my build, waaayy too much threadlocker. I removed the excessive threadlocker with a lighter and a steel brush, same story for the brake mount.
yea super shitty, kind of sucks they did this but not the biggest issue, they are issues if consumers bought online and didnt fix whne installing themselves that could be dangerous
Two Sram upgrade kits purchased in July - The first kit needed way more torque to keep the shifter hoods from moving. Both clamps eventually broke. The replacements I ordered off amazon also required way more torque, but they are no longer moving.
GC love your channel dude, and how its growing too! Always the cutting edge for updates and straight to the point advice!
Thanks for the update. Good job on keeping us informed. Pity you don’t know what a full rotation means. No wonder it’s not working, with only 1.5 turns. Lol
ruclips.net/video/gYQAWoP8cng/видео.html look for reference, literally I dont think my lack of a quarter turn more will fix it when I did it 4 times.... there is obviously a recall for a reason
RIP to the impending death of all the carbon handlebars from thousands of people overtightening their hoods after discovering they were even loose thanks to this recall.
lmao yea if they odnt have torque wrench they jsut gonna send it
If you don't go past 6 nm on the bolt you wouldn't have it on the clamp. The problem here is that the clamp itself doesn't get tight even if you torque the bolt to spec.
Grant
I would back out the entire bolt clean both bolt and clamp free of thread locker, then reapply red thread locker to the bolt.
Also, wound interesting if you could compare the old bolt/clamp assembly to the new replacement bolt/clamp assembly to see if there are any differences
once I get a new one, I will post on instagram, but I am just showing what sram recommended for it
red threadlock? If you plan to never take it off again then sure.
yea I Was just doing it how sram asked to do so and also how sram showed of on there video
As long as it is moving there is not much clamping force on handlebar. So theoretically you can over tighten it until you break into the thread locker and just back it off as soon as you feel it is clamping. But we know we don’t wanna risk it on the actual handlebar. So if you take it off and try it on a dummy handlebar, I think over tightening will fix it.
I'll check anyways, but does it also apply to red axs rim brake levers?
I do not know that one I dont think so
Might have missed: question: does the recall only apply to “aftermarket” hoods as compared to full grupos purchased? I don’t get that specific language in the announcement. But… sounds like the bolts just got too much loctite applied at the factory and just needs to be removed a little bit with this drill.
Thanks for the video! Mine seem fine, perhaps not in the recall? 12spd Force Axs xplr??
you are welcome, I think its only a certain amount of units and it was recently, and itr i snot the old force so if you ahve that batch you are good
Isn't it a bad idea to use a torque wrench to loosen bolts? I thought it can damage the spring/through off calibration
Three full revolutions. You aren’t unscrewing it enough to release the loctites effectiveness.
its 2 from sram officially, and even that what would 3 do when you back it off the part that matters most is the first initial part of it..... ruclips.net/video/gYQAWoP8cng/видео.html look for reference, literally I dont think my lack of a quarter turn would matter there is a recall for a reason.
It looked like you were counting 1/2 revolutions. @@GCPerformance18
@@GCPerformance18 so by backing off full turns you're allowing the threadlock material to move through the narrow channels on the thread to lower the friction which causing a premature click at 6Nm torque.
While this still warrants a recall it doesn't mean the workaround can't be effective. To be honest I'm surprised SRAM haven't advised to completely remove the bolt and brush the threads after this exercise to remove the excess thread locker.
By new force does that mean the D2 Version I just ordered an upgrade kit.
Nice Tape job!
thanks so much
you are not supposed to use torque wrench for loosening stuff mate, tightening only. Or am I wrong?
I mean I figured there is a reason they sell ratchet torque wrenches with a switch to change it from tighten to loosen
Hey thanks for this, just to clarify "new force" not the previous generation?! Cheers
Weird, I have 18000km on mine with no issues. I even have the hoods turned in Remco styles.
it's not weird, you just got one that is not affected, a friend had one move exactly that way a few weeks ago in a race after a gravel patch, and it might be that
yea this was a recent batch that was effected
I'm pretty much a mechanical anti-talent, so glad I'm not the only one who does the "standard remedy" for a given problem only to find it didn’t fix it. (My nightmare is fixing a rubbing disk brake, shouldn't be that hard, but.... 😢).
we all have our weak points lol
I had this exact problem. Noticed it immediately before taping the bars. No clue it was a recall. Recognized there was way too much loctite. Took it off the bar, threaded screw all the way down, unscrewed, put back in bar, worked perfect. This method seems suspicious….
I would back the bolt out further and more times to wear off the thread locker.
i backed it off 4 times, there is not a lot of htreads on those clamps its at 6nm if you back off 4-5 turns thats not doing anything
Same recall as with the sram rival force and apex 1 (11 speed grups
)
I rounded my Bolt its currently still in there :( any suggestions on how to get that out?
These Bolts are trash only used my tourque wrench tried fiddling aroound with the Position of the shifters and it rounded the Bolt after three changes like wtf its a Bolt... sram its not that hard...
Ram a torqz bit in there
Specced torque is 6-8nm so why not just chuck it up to 7.5?
btw nice winspace frame mate
hell yea
I will definitely buy shimano dura ace after watching your video
SRAM had a recall because they had too much thread locker, but Shimano had a faulty design for years and ignored it until they were forced into a recall. But, SRAM is who you are mad at?
It may need a Carbon Gripper.
I mean that would help but it is not needed this is an issue
Thread lock? Why?
idk to make sure it does not back off after tightening
Wearing a puffer in south florida - LOL
SRAM's Shimano momment
It’s a loctite issue. Add a quarter turn to the bolt and then gently bump the shifter to see if it moves. They’ve gone out of their way to issue a real recall for a minor issue, basically the opposite of Shimano, who still haven’t issued a full recall on its cranks.
@@kidsafeThat’s because they have a history of shyt parts and don’t care to recall anything til people complain.
@@VeloSyndicate Still better than not recalling anything. Shimano never recalled its badly designed DA 9000 cassettes even though they constantly creaked and some eventually broke at the carbon carrier for the three largest cogs. They stealth redesigned the carrier with 4 additional rivets and kept selling the old ones until the supply was exhausted. A cassette is a safety critical piece of equipment.
I'd literally never seen a complain on any public forum about the SRAM shifter clamp issue prior to the recall notice. Have you?
@@kidsafe you want to talk about critical piece of equipment. SRAM brakes. Nuff said.
@@VeloSyndicate So are you referring to the current recall which can be solved with a simple tightening of the clamp or removal of the factory installed loctite? Or are you referring to the 2013 recall, coincidentally around the same time Shimano issued a rare recall of its own BR-CX75, BR-R515 and BR-R315 brakes? Full recalls are better than none.
SRAM Shifter Recall? Yes, but still in the TDF, unlike Campy, or causing negative 'incidents' for consumers like Shimano cranks!
Are you wearing a coat? 😂😂
hahaha yes I am it was a chilly 70 degrees here
@@GCPerformance18 so ironic, global warming makes the tropics . . . cold
@@GCPerformance18chilly at 70……jeebus.
Wait was that 6mm to 5nm? Or 5mm to 6nm? Oh never mind, I guess it doesn't matter since it didn't work anyway lol
Lmao 5mm to 6nm
Knew I wasn't crazy
Glad I bought Shimano😂😂
Not very bright are we haaha XD
The screw is too long. cutting into the carbon.
my tool may not have a good bite head, but the head of my tool likes to be bitten
Shits and giggles!!!
Time out 🤣
A hem
yesh
SMH