@@MushookieMan The vertical nature of the route and the presence of natural gear makes it a perfect candidate for toproping if you're trying to do the moves safely. The climbing will flow a lot more smoothly than if you're clipping bolts every other moves too.
As one who has ALWAYS had a great fear of heights, I am both fascinated and amazed at your prowess at climbing cliff faces Pete. Amazing videography too. Stay safe. Much love.
I held my breath all the time Pete climbed this route. I think I beat the world record on breath holding. Climbing something that scatchy on finger freezing rock... Insane!
Nice send man! Can't believe you trusted that belayer though, couldn't even trust him to hold the dead end properly, never mind run backwards in the event of a fall!
I doubt Adam would do that, not because of difficulty or the run out itself but because of ground fall. So the O grade would need to be qualified with a P or a T
Amazing climb, well done! Excuse my not understanding, but why did you use a twist locking Carabiner instead of a regular solid gate on the quickdraw? 3:27 Is it because falling is likely and you really don't want it to pop out?
You have a top rope anchor set up... but people will hunt you down for a single safety bolt. I get trad climbing is similar to freesoloing in the element of risk, but trad culture is very stiff sometimes
Either you are a troll or not British. If your not British you should know that we only bolt limestone and slate quarries. And even suggesting bolts will get you in trouble
@@merikslingerland1293 that's not it. I'm sure gritstone could take bolts. I the UK we have a no bolting natural rock rule. If you bolt something people will cut the bolts, even if it's an abseil point or anchor. In quarries that rule doesn't exist so we can bolt limestone and slate which are mostly quarried rock. The rock in the video is a bit of an exception as it is quarried gritstone. We know gritstone as gods own rock and there are strict rules not to bolt. You also cannot add bolts to existing trad routes.
@@merikslingerland1293 it's odd because some of the best climbs on the wall are nice finger cracks, that used to be unclimbable thin hairline cracks, but got wider from people hammering pitons and pegs and aid climbing them, eventually getting big enough to fit fingers.
@@MsAdam09not really, there is loads of natural rock with bolts in. Malham, Cheedale, Cheddar, etc. Rules mostly come from prevailing local ethics and, for the most part, the areas where routes can be adequately protected by gear, there is no bolting. At places like Chee Tor, Stoney, High Tor, you have sport bits and trad bits mixed (and trad routes with odd bolts) with no discernible difference between the buttresses. The crag in this very video was heavily quarried to build dams; the holes he puts the gear in were drilled shot holes from the quarrymen. There are loads of other grit quarries; some with bolts, some with pegs, and some with none. There are limestone quarries like Fairy Cave that have no fixed gear at all. The only rule is that there are no rules.
Is it an ethics thing in the area to not add say 1 bolt up top? Still be wildly run out but at least past the crux you won’t die if something crumbles.
I think it's because at the top the line is quite eliminate to stay away from Masters edge (although the moves are very nice). I think if it was more Independant it would have seen more attention, because although it might not look like it, it's actually quite low in the E9 grade range.
Very rarely, in some scenarios, it's possible for a rope to unclip itself during a fall. So perhaps in this instance, being such a head game venturing of up this crazy run out, it might help psychologically to remove that possible doubt 🤷🏼♂️
Probably just to eliminate any risk of unclipping or even just the carabiner opening slightly and breaking at ~7kN. When your belayer pulls in rope as you fall (to prevent a ground hit) it creates a very hard catch which I guess could be enough to break some carabiners when loaded the wrong way.
Why does cold weather help friction on the grit? You'd think warm rubber would be softer and therefore provide better grip - like racing car tires. Most of the hard grit routes I see getting done on here are by climbers who are freezing their boy/girl bollox off and so their fingers are numb......seems counter-intuitive....
It's an ethics thing. Element of risk has to he accepted. We don't have that much rock or even stuff that big in length. It does make sense if you're local. Obviously these guys are top of thier game, or even our game, so these are extremes. But without bolts there's a lifetime of challenge on these small edges. Memorable routes that with bolts just probably wouldn't be all that. Even the route in the video, if bolted would it be all that? Probably be a fairly easy (subjectively) sport climb and nothing of note. Most of the stuff isnt so overtly dangerous tho, and there is something beautiful about turning up with a bag of gear, and leaving with everything, having completed the journey under your own steam
@@jameslincoln1Doesn't make that much sense because it's basically gatekeeping the route. If you want the route to ''be all that'' why not free solo or skip the bolts and climb it trad. Putting the bolts would allow for more people to actually enjoy the climb. It's not an ethics thing it's an ego thing.
You can just top rope it if you just want the climb, the grade is for a trad brit style and includes the risk as part of the difficulty, bolting it would get you rightly booted from the community and the bolts cut.
It's about reducing risk rather than eliminating it. There are a whole lot of moves on that climb - just because falling off on some of them might kill you, doesn't mean it's not worth protecting all the others. Not sure if there's a walk-off at the top, but that could be another reason.
That's called free soloing with an emotional support rope mate
Well said 🤣
hahaahaaha
Facts!
Just bolt it
@@MushookieMan The vertical nature of the route and the presence of natural gear makes it a perfect candidate for toproping if you're trying to do the moves safely. The climbing will flow a lot more smoothly than if you're clipping bolts every other moves too.
You know it's sketchy when you use lockers on your cams haha. Well done Pete!
I noticed that too 😅
On a runout like that, every 0.0013% of spurious additional safety is a thing.
Grats to Tom for repeating his climb while being dressed up as Pete!
Good effort, enjoyed the dual camera angles.
Ahahahaha, the bit climbing as George Mallory has got to be one of my favourite Wide Boyz moments ever. Truly deserves a full video!
There is a full video.check video description
Of course it's repeated by Pete after 10 years 😆 what legends.
Seriously sweaty palms over here. Amazing effort. Didn't know you two were Page 3 Wide Boyz ;)
I'm glad you narrated the video yourself, so I knew you survived it! Phew.
i love your humor so much xD awesome costumes and footage!
As one who has ALWAYS had a great fear of heights, I am both fascinated and amazed at your prowess at climbing cliff faces Pete. Amazing videography too. Stay safe. Much love.
Fucking sweaty tips watching this!!!!
And the world's smallest big wall video is probably the first video i saw from the wide boyz! that got me hooked
Scary enough to make glad I'm getting to old to climb. Not something I would ever try. Well done Pete!
Epic climb Pete, and kudos to Tom for completing an absolutely legendary climb with a spicy free solo finish haha. Thats style right there
From amazing costumes to the spicy climbing, grat video. Congrats Pete! 🔥
I held my breath all the time Pete climbed this route. I think I beat the world record on breath holding. Climbing something that scatchy on finger freezing rock... Insane!
Impressive Pete, congrats! Even though this one is a little tense, I still calm down watching videos where there is mostly climbing like this one.
Awesome piece of climbing right there 😊👍🏼
Wow that fancy dress was not what I was expecting to see while eating my lunch today, to say the least
Great to watch. Thanks
That’s one mean trilogy! A slice of my pizza at crack fest has your name on it now 🍕 Monster send man, psyched 💪
Well done, our Pete. Pure balls, I'd say!
Yeah, you actually get to see them @1:36, lol.
Nicely climbed and looking in total control
UK 6c is around french sport 8a or 10- UIAA BTW in case someone gets the wrong impression :))
You did it before the snow nice one
Epic, stay safe guys
3:24 Clipping into a scewgate?? Facinating! I had never thought of it...
When you reallyyyy want to trust that piece of gear😀
A serious step up, for our viewing pleasure. A little uncomfortable 16 seconds in but as you posted it I assume you survive.
Awesome effort. When are we going to see Toby have a run at Masters edge... that has to be on the cards.
Apt name given by Tom. Well done!
brutal - it is really impressive not to get in panic at the top crux.
Climbing like that is one thing but I wouldn't want to be the one to belay that either
Well done Pete
Great video!
Wow.....Sweaty palms climb.......And that's just sitting in bed watching the vid! VERY nicely done!
Bold climb. Great ascent!
I feel like a here topping out on a nice 7/8 metre 5, so to achieve this shit must be joyous. Well done young man 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🔥🧗🏻♂️
Well played pete ❤
Nicely climbed! Congrats on the second ascent!
Yeah, thats a whole pint of fk that! Fair play, bro, epic watching from the comfort of my bath.
😂
@@jacobrogers7286 😆
Masterpiece
Eeeeh! well done Pete
nearly pissed my pants on that little rewind into the past. And then again on that basically highball part of the climb...
Spicy indeed!
Good effort
Nice send man! Can't believe you trusted that belayer though, couldn't even trust him to hold the dead end properly, never mind run backwards in the event of a fall!
But whats the O grade?
I doubt Adam would do that, not because of difficulty or the run out itself but because of ground fall. So the O grade would need to be qualified with a P or a T
Pot, potty
Gee, I’m shocked nobody else wanted to climb this. I guess this route is only for 2 people and not anybody else. Great.
holy crap
Amazing climb, well done! Excuse my not understanding, but why did you use a twist locking Carabiner instead of a regular solid gate on the quickdraw? 3:27 Is it because falling is likely and you really don't want it to pop out?
I'm guessing since that is the most important piece of gear as there's not much else there. So some extra security helps ease the mind.
When will we see the FBSA (first banana suit ascent)?!
was the page 3 birthday assent in birthday suit.?!
Yes 😅
You Brits are too pure, if that was in New Zealand there would most certainly be a shiny bolt on that upper section! Well done!
jesus christ ! scared just watching this :)
Solid Snake with the FA
thanks for showing climbs without tons of cuts and music
The fact that he fell from halfway up and hit the ground protected by 1 crash pad is… wild. Guess it says a lot about how good crash pads are lol
nice purple alien :)
Pete's "Try not to free solo challenge, level: impossible"
You have a top rope anchor set up... but people will hunt you down for a single safety bolt. I get trad climbing is similar to freesoloing in the element of risk, but trad culture is very stiff sometimes
Master's Edgy
Is he rocking the UP flagships?
where is all the footage of fancy dress masters edge??
See video description
can someone please explain for a noob, why you can't place more gear eg at 5:05?
Why not add a bolt or two to make it safe?
Either you are a troll or not British. If your not British you should know that we only bolt limestone and slate quarries. And even suggesting bolts will get you in trouble
@@MsAdam09 Ok that makes sense, if the rock can't handle bolts that's logical.
@@merikslingerland1293 that's not it. I'm sure gritstone could take bolts.
I the UK we have a no bolting natural rock rule. If you bolt something people will cut the bolts, even if it's an abseil point or anchor.
In quarries that rule doesn't exist so we can bolt limestone and slate which are mostly quarried rock.
The rock in the video is a bit of an exception as it is quarried gritstone. We know gritstone as gods own rock and there are strict rules not to bolt.
You also cannot add bolts to existing trad routes.
@@merikslingerland1293 it's odd because some of the best climbs on the wall are nice finger cracks, that used to be unclimbable thin hairline cracks, but got wider from people hammering pitons and pegs and aid climbing them, eventually getting big enough to fit fingers.
@@MsAdam09not really, there is loads of natural rock with bolts in. Malham, Cheedale, Cheddar, etc. Rules mostly come from prevailing local ethics and, for the most part, the areas where routes can be adequately protected by gear, there is no bolting. At places like Chee Tor, Stoney, High Tor, you have sport bits and trad bits mixed (and trad routes with odd bolts) with no discernible difference between the buttresses. The crag in this very video was heavily quarried to build dams; the holes he puts the gear in were drilled shot holes from the quarrymen. There are loads of other grit quarries; some with bolts, some with pegs, and some with none. There are limestone quarries like Fairy Cave that have no fixed gear at all. The only rule is that there are no rules.
What happened to the birthday celebrations? We want a comeback!!!
British trad is SCARY 😁
I realize Bold British trad lines are a thing but has bolting sport routes become more of a thing in certain places or is it al like this?
Is it an ethics thing in the area to not add say 1 bolt up top? Still be wildly run out but at least past the crux you won’t die if something crumbles.
Bolting is against the ethics of most UK crags unless they're quarries in the most part
I wouldn't ever comment on adding bolts to grit ever again. People will hunt you down if you're not careful.
@@greigseavill629why?
That’s what the E number represents in the grading: how likely you are to die from a fall. And if There’s a bolt, it’s not trad!
And if you used a bouldering mat, and the grade is based on the FA having not done so, then you did not climb that grade.
why the locking biner?
Does anyone know why this hasn’t seen any repeats? Is it just that no one else lacks the brains/has the the confidence & skill of the wide boy?
I think it's because at the top the line is quite eliminate to stay away from Masters edge (although the moves are very nice).
I think if it was more Independant it would have seen more attention, because although it might not look like it, it's actually quite low in the E9 grade range.
@@WideBoyz ahhh. So a little too contrived/not the king line that is Masters edge. Thanks for the response!
@@WideBoyz Nice work Pete! What tech grade would you give the deck-able bit?
What's the reasoning behind the screwgates on the last 2 pieces of gear?
Very rarely, in some scenarios, it's possible for a rope to unclip itself during a fall. So perhaps in this instance, being such a head game venturing of up this crazy run out, it might help psychologically to remove that possible doubt 🤷🏼♂️
Probably just to eliminate any risk of unclipping or even just the carabiner opening slightly and breaking at ~7kN. When your belayer pulls in rope as you fall (to prevent a ground hit) it creates a very hard catch which I guess could be enough to break some carabiners when loaded the wrong way.
That's almost a free solo
At what e number do we think is the rope worth it or is it just added weight and snagging risk seems as it won't save us anyway?
What’s the gear here? Looked like a green totem but the others I couldn’t tell
Old purple alien (same size as new green totem)
@@WideBoyz Thanks. And low down? what was little blue?
Best done with numb hands
@2:42 esistono anche i guanti a mezze dita, eh! ::
Is that an onsight or was it practiced on TR first??
Practiced on top rope
Dear god, just place some bolts on that! Geez.
Funny how the guy running out the route is wearing a helmet as if that's gonna save him
why not just top rope it?
After seeing that video, I would never trust that belayer, again.
you realize the only next step is the free solo...
Risking injury is not worth it.
Looks like it is for some people
Why not just solo the whole thing?
Why does cold weather help friction on the grit? You'd think warm rubber would be softer and therefore provide better grip - like racing car tires. Most of the hard grit routes I see getting done on here are by climbers who are freezing their boy/girl bollox off and so their fingers are numb......seems counter-intuitive....
Not better to just free solo at this point ?
Excellent climbing, made all the more exciting by the shite belay technique on display.
Nauseating
As someone who doesn't know UK climbing: Why don't you just put 2-3 bolts at the top? The rock is covered in chalk anyways so no one will notice.
May as well put a ladder up to the top
It's an ethics thing. Element of risk has to he accepted. We don't have that much rock or even stuff that big in length. It does make sense if you're local. Obviously these guys are top of thier game, or even our game, so these are extremes. But without bolts there's a lifetime of challenge on these small edges. Memorable routes that with bolts just probably wouldn't be all that. Even the route in the video, if bolted would it be all that? Probably be a fairly easy (subjectively) sport climb and nothing of note. Most of the stuff isnt so overtly dangerous tho, and there is something beautiful about turning up with a bag of gear, and leaving with everything, having completed the journey under your own steam
Might as well put so plastic holds on as well 😂
@@jameslincoln1 thanks for explaining this.
@@jameslincoln1Doesn't make that much sense because it's basically gatekeeping the route. If you want the route to ''be all that'' why not free solo or skip the bolts and climb it trad. Putting the bolts would allow for more people to actually enjoy the climb. It's not an ethics thing it's an ego thing.
Just put a bolt in this section and it becomes less dangerous ... there is no reason to risk something valuable like life, bones or health in general.
You can just top rope it if you just want the climb, the grade is for a trad brit style and includes the risk as part of the difficulty, bolting it would get you rightly booted from the community and the bolts cut.
I dont see a point of belayer there.
It's about reducing risk rather than eliminating it. There are a whole lot of moves on that climb - just because falling off on some of them might kill you, doesn't mean it's not worth protecting all the others.
Not sure if there's a walk-off at the top, but that could be another reason.
Ballsy.