Ha, I feel the same. Thinking on it now, though, imagine a whammy bar equipped version!? Some interesting engineering ingenuity required, I'm sure, but the folks at Evertune are no doubt tackling that issue as I type... :)
Just got one today. To say it is worth it, is a gross understatement. It was shipped across the the entire U.S. and arrived in perfect tune. So amazing!
I don't own an evertune but like to watch these for knowledge. Good, quick, no-mess instruction. Nice work Ola, nice set up for these vids also, very easy to see!
Thanks for an instructive and simple video. I seriously love the Evertune bridge. I'm an impulsive player, when I have a riff in my head I don't like to first have to worry about tuning, plug and play. Fucking amazing!
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhh now I get it. I sold my first solar guitar because I just didn't understand the bridge and was intimidated by potentially messing it up. I may have to buy another solar evertune guitar in the future. Thanks
All of these comments crack me up. I love my evertune and wish all of my guitars had it. Once you know how to adjust it and you get it right, the time saved tuning your guitar far outweighs the initial setup time. It's a no-brainer.
I like how Ola can just tune right up in zone 2. On my Head signature LTD I can only tune a little bit before it stops working and I have to turn turn the tuning pegs to make it make it work again. This is all in zone 2!
I am trying to sell my evertune becasue i wasnt aware of the tuning in zone 2 and just under zone 3 because i was going mad trying to tune it w/o that special key.I may keep it now.
Got my T1.6D Solar guitar yesterday. Today I attempted to get my guitar into zone 2/3 where the note let’s you do bends. Adjusted headstock tuner the wrong way on high E string. SNAP. 🫠
When I tune it in zone 2 at the bridge, then tighten the tuning keys at the head the guitar goes sharp. So do I have to make it flat at the bridge first? This is very frustrating.
Great video! I was down to my last E-string - they kept popping. The problem when intonating is that when you move the string saddle away from the nut, the speaking length of the string gets longer, but the tension remains the same, and that's when it pops. I had watched this video from EverTune (ruclips.net/video/xKVibZhm2VM/видео.html), and it does mention reducing tension on the headstock tuning peg, but it was only when my luthier suggested that I also tune down the hex tuning key on the saddle a good full-tone or two, that the strings stopped popping. So, 1. Put the string on and tune up the pegs until the saddle is floating. Never mind about what's going on inside the guitar, you can see the string saddle has now lifted off from the tail end of the guitar. 2. Tune the string using the saddle hex key 3. Use the headstock tuning peg to bring the saddle up until right before it grounds-out on the nut-end of the string(right before "zone-3"). You can tell when you're nearly there by yanking on the string a bit. It will give a little "click" when you tug it and it hits the end-marker inside. You want that tiny gap between the string at rest and that marker because that's the gap which accounts for your wood shrinking, etc. so it doesn't go out of tune, but it's right on there on the edge of the marker so as soon as you bend the string, the saddle locks against that point and is then fixed so that your bends, bend! 4. Adjust your tuning with the saddle tuning key, and check your intonation. Intonation - 12th fret is too high: 5. if the fretted note at the 12th fret is too high, you need to make the distance between the 12th fret and the saddle longer by moving the saddle towards the guitar tail-piece, (by turning the intonation hex-key clockwise - but don't do that yet or you will break the string!!). a) Lower the tuning with the saddle hex key a good tone and a half. b) Then lower the tension on the headstock tuning peg - as you do so, you can see the floating saddle move towards the tail-piece, a good 3/8". c) Now you can turn the intonation key clockwise without breaking the string! It's surprising how many full turns of the intonation key it takes for a slight intonation problem to be fixed - I would start with a turn and a half. As you do this, watch your tuner, and the saddle - because at some point, the increasing string tension brought on by moving the saddle piece towards the tail-piece will cause the saddle to butt up against the zone-3 marker again (the saddle has once again topped-out against the marker on the nut-end of the string and the string pitch will start rising as you move the intonation saddle key towards the tailpiece. So, lower the tension on the headstock tuning pegs some more so you can complete the intonation saddle movement while the saddle is completely floating in "zone-2" - i.e. not bottomed-out, and not topped-out. The main thing with this is just keep your eye on the saddle: if it stops floating and has bottomed out, or topped out, then there's a chance you're going to break a string. Keep it floating, keep your eye on it, and all will be well! The EverTune is a thing of wonder, but I think the marketing department or Legal didn't want to mention the chance of string breakage - and they talk about lowering the tension on the headstock keys before tightening the intonation saddle towards the tail-piece, but they don't mention first lowering the tuning with the saddle tuning key! And EverTune's videos are like an inventor's-eye view, instead of looking at the the thing from the outside and observing how that saddle moves about when you adjust either the tuning pegs or the intonation.
Thanks for your comment! I just broke my high E string setting up my evertune for the first time. I got a Cort KX 700 evertune for a steal, but the evertune setup was way off out of the box. With your comment I see what I did wrong with the intonation. Thanks man. Edit: I had to break two more high e strings before I got it figured out. What a pain in the ass. It's good now though and I know what I did wrong. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction with this comment.
Hey I kinda struggle with tutorials like this, I'm one of those people that needs hands on before I fully get it, but that being ...what's the main purpose of these bridges? Is it kind of like having the tuning stability of a locked system without having the lock in nut?
I'm having some difficulties at the moment. I have one string (5th) that keeps raising in pitch when I turn the tuning peg on the headstock. It is way too high for the pitch I want. Is it safe to tune from the bridge if I'm at this situation? I don't want to go way too sharp with the tuning peg on the headstock so I don't risk the string breaking. If I try to loosen the string it doesn't lock into any set tuning. The bridge saddle is quite close to the bridge pickup.
I just wanted to say that if you are considering an Evertune bridge you will absolutely love being on tune. That G string problem? Gone! That is 100% true. The learning curve isn't bad at all. Just jot down a few notes from Ola and you will be fine.
You can, but it's a process best suited for a luthier that understands that process. In fact, it might be best to have Evertune themselves work on your guitar. They'll have to cut into your guitar to fit the bridge there which I personally wouldn't want to happen to a really nice guitar. Maybe only on a cheaper import model that you don't mind risking wood loss on
I broke like 3 E strings then decided to get a steel one, these have held up better. But man, evertune really works, my other guitars are annoying when humidity changes
I refuse to route a big hole in my bridge area on my Gibson SG. I put a tusk nut in place of the bone nut lock my strings in place. Stretch them well good to go.
I have a schecter banshee mach 7 with evertune. After a year + I'm ready to trade it in for a standard hardtail. It's too finicky and high maintenance for me. Haven't been able to get it dialed in. Even paid to have it "professionally" set up and it still isn't working for me.
Seems like a needlessly complicated reinvention of the wheel to me. I’m sure it’s in another video, but there’s been no mention of intonation here - if those saddles are moving forwards towards the nut as they pass through all these zones, surely the intonation is being affected?
@@MickH60 I've always loved the feel of a Floyd, but I spent way too much time setting them up. God forbid you had to unlock it and readjust tuning, it was a marathon. I'm hoping the new guitar I just bought with the Evertune will be some up front hassle and then just some playing for awhile.
It looks like a lot, but once you go through it step-by-step, you'll be like "oh, that wasn't actually that bad" and it's very much worth it. And you CAN set it up to make bends possible, no matter what anyone online tells you.
I don't even have an evertune but I love this series!
Really want one though.... one day.....
Ha, I feel the same. Thinking on it now, though, imagine a whammy bar equipped version!?
Some interesting engineering ingenuity required, I'm sure, but the folks at Evertune are no doubt tackling that issue as I type... :)
If you check the site they have professional installerers that can install them for roughly $360 US.
@@toemasmeems I will get a guitar that comes with one. Not keen on modifying anything 😊
Just got one today. To say it is worth it, is a gross understatement. It was shipped across the the entire U.S. and arrived in perfect tune. So amazing!
@@Mojen_Marc_Music You ever get one since this comment?
I don't own an evertune but like to watch these for knowledge. Good, quick, no-mess instruction. Nice work Ola, nice set up for these vids also, very easy to see!
Think I'll steer clear of evertune guitars. Thanks for the video
Ola the teacherer
I am so excited! I ordered my X1.6Canibalismo+ and it will be here in a few days. Great video!
Bridge has been some what demystified for me after watching this. Thanks Ola!
i also would recommend to remove the ET Tuning Key from the saddle when checking the tuning. it's even recommended in the official manual.
I have a solar guitar and LOVE the evertune bridge. Super super good and simple when you learn it. It really keeps tune 100% for months.
Thanks for an instructive and simple video. I seriously love the Evertune bridge. I'm an impulsive player, when I have a riff in my head I don't like to first have to worry about tuning, plug and play. Fucking amazing!
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhh now I get it. I sold my first solar guitar because I just didn't understand the bridge and was intimidated by potentially messing it up. I may have to buy another solar evertune guitar in the future. Thanks
Just purchased my 1st Evertune. Great video Ola, super helpful!!
it doesnt look as hard as i thought! thanks for the video
All of these comments crack me up. I love my evertune and wish all of my guitars had it. Once you know how to adjust it and you get it right, the time saved tuning your guitar far outweighs the initial setup time. It's a no-brainer.
Thanks so much for the detailed information I really appreciate it
I like how Ola can just tune right up in zone 2. On my Head signature LTD I can only tune a little bit before it stops working and I have to turn turn the tuning pegs to make it make it work again. This is all in zone 2!
Best guitar bridges ever!
I am trying to sell my evertune becasue i wasnt aware of the tuning in zone 2 and just under zone 3 because i was going mad trying to tune it w/o that special key.I may keep it now.
Got my T1.6D Solar guitar yesterday. Today I attempted to get my guitar into zone 2/3 where the note let’s you do bends. Adjusted headstock tuner the wrong way on high E string. SNAP. 🫠
When I tune it in zone 2 at the bridge, then tighten the tuning keys at the head the guitar goes sharp. So do I have to make it flat at the bridge first? This is very frustrating.
Same problem here. It seems like it’s not as good a system as advertised.
Great video! I was down to my last E-string - they kept popping. The problem when intonating is that when you move the string saddle away from the nut, the speaking length of the string gets longer, but the tension remains the same, and that's when it pops. I had watched this video from EverTune (ruclips.net/video/xKVibZhm2VM/видео.html), and it does mention reducing tension on the headstock tuning peg, but it was only when my luthier suggested that I also tune down the hex tuning key on the saddle a good full-tone or two, that the strings stopped popping.
So,
1. Put the string on and tune up the pegs until the saddle is floating. Never mind about what's going on inside the guitar, you can see the string saddle has now lifted off from the tail end of the guitar.
2. Tune the string using the saddle hex key
3. Use the headstock tuning peg to bring the saddle up until right before it grounds-out on the nut-end of the string(right before "zone-3"). You can tell when you're nearly there by yanking on the string a bit. It will give a little "click" when you tug it and it hits the end-marker inside. You want that tiny gap between the string at rest and that marker because that's the gap which accounts for your wood shrinking, etc. so it doesn't go out of tune, but it's right on there on the edge of the marker so as soon as you bend the string, the saddle locks against that point and is then fixed so that your bends, bend!
4. Adjust your tuning with the saddle tuning key, and check your intonation.
Intonation - 12th fret is too high:
5. if the fretted note at the 12th fret is too high, you need to make the distance between the 12th fret and the saddle longer by moving the saddle towards the guitar tail-piece, (by turning the intonation hex-key clockwise - but don't do that yet or you will break the string!!).
a) Lower the tuning with the saddle hex key a good tone and a half.
b) Then lower the tension on the headstock tuning peg - as you do so, you can see the floating saddle move towards the tail-piece, a good 3/8".
c) Now you can turn the intonation key clockwise without breaking the string! It's surprising how many full turns of the intonation key it takes for a slight intonation problem to be fixed - I would start with a turn and a half. As you do this, watch your tuner, and the saddle - because at some point, the increasing string tension brought on by moving the saddle piece towards the tail-piece will cause the saddle to butt up against the zone-3 marker again (the saddle has once again topped-out against the marker on the nut-end of the string and the string pitch will start rising as you move the intonation saddle key towards the tailpiece. So, lower the tension on the headstock tuning pegs some more so you can complete the intonation saddle movement while the saddle is completely floating in "zone-2" - i.e. not bottomed-out, and not topped-out.
The main thing with this is just keep your eye on the saddle: if it stops floating and has bottomed out, or topped out, then there's a chance you're going to break a string. Keep it floating, keep your eye on it, and all will be well!
The EverTune is a thing of wonder, but I think the marketing department or Legal didn't want to mention the chance of string breakage - and they talk about lowering the tension on the headstock keys before tightening the intonation saddle towards the tail-piece, but they don't mention first lowering the tuning with the saddle tuning key! And EverTune's videos are like an inventor's-eye view, instead of looking at the the thing from the outside and observing how that saddle moves about when you adjust either the tuning pegs or the intonation.
This is useful insight, thanks!
Thanks for your comment! I just broke my high E string setting up my evertune for the first time. I got a Cort KX 700 evertune for a steal, but the evertune setup was way off out of the box. With your comment I see what I did wrong with the intonation. Thanks man.
Edit: I had to break two more high e strings before I got it figured out. What a pain in the ass. It's good now though and I know what I did wrong. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction with this comment.
I forgot how to use the evertune. It’s a little bit of a hassle but once you get it you are golden. That being said “how the f do I change zones?!”
So with this setting you can smash the string like hell and it won't change pitch like weeeewm, but still can do bends ?
What do you do if you end up tuning until it stops and it might break? How do you get the right tuning when that happens?
Thanks Ola now I'm off to buy my first Solar guitar with an Evertune bridge!
I own 2 evertunes this was very helpful ty ola
How about string height and intonation?
Yeap nice when just didn't find the zone 2 and high e string broke 👌🏻
How do you suppose that happens? I have a new guitar one the way now with one of these bridges.
Thank you Ola, just got an everyune bridge on a new guitar and this helped a lot!
Hey I kinda struggle with tutorials like this, I'm one of those people that needs hands on before I fully get it, but that being ...what's the main purpose of these bridges? Is it kind of like having the tuning stability of a locked system without having the lock in nut?
I'm having some difficulties at the moment. I have one string (5th) that keeps raising in pitch when I turn the tuning peg on the headstock. It is way too high for the pitch I want. Is it safe to tune from the bridge if I'm at this situation? I don't want to go way too sharp with the tuning peg on the headstock so I don't risk the string breaking. If I try to loosen the string it doesn't lock into any set tuning. The bridge saddle is quite close to the bridge pickup.
I just wanted to say that if you are considering an Evertune bridge you will absolutely love being on tune. That G string problem? Gone! That is 100% true. The learning curve isn't bad at all.
Just jot down a few notes from Ola and you will be fine.
So it works as good as they say? Im def wanting one with an evertune.
@@user-sg6fb4ip5hunfortunately it doesnt
is it possible to replace your bridge with an Evertune?
You can, but it's a process best suited for a luthier that understands that process. In fact, it might be best to have Evertune themselves work on your guitar. They'll have to cut into your guitar to fit the bridge there which I personally wouldn't want to happen to a really nice guitar. Maybe only on a cheaper import model that you don't mind risking wood loss on
I should get a evertune guitar after watching this I should be able to figure this out.
Won’t bend mode mess with the intonation?
Not if you intonate in that spot
I broke like 3 E strings then decided to get a steel one, these have held up better. But man, evertune really works, my other guitars are annoying when humidity changes
I tune my guitar in zone 2 but when I turn the peg up to right before tone 3 the string goes sharp
I refuse to route a big hole in my bridge area on my Gibson SG. I put a tusk nut in place of the bone nut lock my strings in place. Stretch them well good to go.
Wow looks actually pretty simple.
I have a schecter banshee mach 7 with evertune. After a year + I'm ready to trade it in for a standard hardtail. It's too finicky and high maintenance for me. Haven't been able to get it dialed in. Even paid to have it "professionally" set up and it still isn't working for me.
I have a evertune. New to it. I don't know if I am In zone 2 or 3. Is zone 2 where you can't bend the strings?
Yes - when you bend but the pitch doesn't change.
what ive the evertune doesnt tune with the key ive the strings are in zone 2
Thanks
Great explanation of how it works and makes me never want one 😂
Seems like a needlessly complicated reinvention of the wheel to me.
I’m sure it’s in another video, but there’s been no mention of intonation here - if those saddles are moving forwards towards the nut as they pass through all these zones, surely the intonation is being affected?
When he will teach how to play song 2 ?
Thank you for this. I don’t even play the fucking guitar, but this was nice.
it's still worth tuning the guitar
how many zones are there lol
4 in total. 1, 2, 3, and erogenous .
Boy you Really don't want to lose that Key.
It's just a 2.5mm allen key, no big deal if you lose the one that comes with it.
How to go from having one guitar to an arsenal
I don t have patience for that anymore.
I was interested in an evertune guitar until I watched this video, no thanks
Seems like a pain in the ass
its like everything, I hate floyd rose bridges but love these, I'd rather tune an evertune than a floyd....
Having just bought one, I can attest that it is in fact, a pain in the ass.
Waste of time and money.
@@MickH60 I've always loved the feel of a Floyd, but I spent way too much time setting them up. God forbid you had to unlock it and readjust tuning, it was a marathon. I'm hoping the new guitar I just bought with the Evertune will be some up front hassle and then just some playing for awhile.
Too complicated, I'll settle for a standard hardtail or tremelo system.
Not at all. I love all my floating tremolos but not as much as I love being in tune song after song in a 44 song setlist. You will love it! 4:40
In what world is this complicated lol
@@fisterfrontside2140 I take back my comment! I own one and love it now!
It looks like a lot, but once you go through it step-by-step, you'll be like "oh, that wasn't actually that bad" and it's very much worth it. And you CAN set it up to make bends possible, no matter what anyone online tells you.
Once you do it, super easy and it’s IN TUNE FOREVER
No thanks
Darrell Braun's guide to tuning an Evertune is much better than this one.
U cant bend?
What if one string goes slightly out of tune how do I adjust it back