Shop Links: (affiliate) Fosi Audio M0-3 Amplifier - amzn.to/3nFbcSE Nobsound G2 Pro Amplifier - amzn.to/3nDtSCj Adjustable 0-48V 10A Power Supply - amzn.to/2I8qL51 Tube Amplifiers - amzn.to/3dj5YHB DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you purchase from one of the product links, I may receive a small commission. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases
Hey big D can you dyno the Bully audio Slayer MD 3k. It's on Amazon for a amazing price right now but I don't want to grab it if the specs are fake. It's claiming 3k rms @1 ohm not sure on the voltage
big d please Try to test it in 48v the chip can make it in up to 53v Note Before you that please checked the capacitor if it's more than 35 volt just to sure smoke will happen
👍👍 THANK you for doing a test on this amp. I bought two (with high hopes) for making a full range stereo system. BOTH utilized with 4-ohm speakers/loads. Not only did BOTH switch off stupid early (protective circuitry kicked in fast), but they don't even come close to making rated (RMS or otherwise) power. Both were bought on Amazon and returned for a full refund. To help others, I have bought FIVE of the Nobsound A2 Bluetooth digital amps and run them at 36v (using a step up 12v - 36v booster) in my DIY homemade boom boxes. They sound excellent, don't kick off (but, they get quite distorted when reaching full power), switchable BT on/off and are "rated" at 160w x 2. However, the RMS wattage is prob more like 70-75 watts per channel. They play loud, low, and clean. So, IMHO, I have had ZERO luck with Fosi Audio (have tried many of their amps) and am quite impressed with the Nobsound digital chip amps. Respectively, however, whomever advertises any of these Chinese chip amplifier wattage ratings is on crack. Thanks again for doing a test on this amp...hopefully it helps others decide what to buy. Nobsound hasn't let me down. Fosi Audio amps should be avoided like the plague.
Great feedback - based on your input I just looked at NoboSound G2 Pro as a potential subwoofer driver - I might just give it a try based on some additional user feedback on the Nobosound site. Any further comments from a few years on would be much appreciated
Hey big D I just gotta say out of everyone that I have watched or subscribed to who does a channel dedicated to audio hardware and its related data collection that I enjoy your work as much or more than anybody else from this genre. *Adequate info without overload *Humor without being a goof *relevant material on relevant products Thanks for what you do and the transparent knowledge you provide to us Big Dummies out there
I also have to mention is that all these chip amps, be it TPA or the TDA chips will do rated power as they come from reputable makers like Texas Instruments or STMicro. The crux though is that the upper RMS rating is quoted at 10% THD, not the 1% that we assume. I think it's safe to assume at 10% THD you are getting into relatively audible clip territory, at which the amp dyno will not count up to, even under the uncertified test.
@@JusstyteN Correct. The TPA3255 datasheet in fact specifies that the chip can do up to 315W at 1% THD into a 4 ohm load in PBTL (parallel bridge tied load) configuration, but you need a supply voltage of 53.5V to achieve that. Essentially, the amplifier is crippled by being run at only 35V. But before just cranking up the voltage one would have to first verify that other elements of the circuit (any other ICs, and capacitors in particular) can handle it. Also the output inductors may or may not be able to handle the added power. While the chip can most certainly do the power, a lot depends on the supporting components too. Also, the protection threshold would likely have to be changed by changing the value of a resistor on the board. Also what is up with that PBTL/SUB switch? Makes no sense, like they got the terminology confused or something. Some strange design decisions went into this product for sure.
@Dave Micolichek That may be a possibility with certain integrators but given the cost, the ICs are rather cheap. On Digikey the TPA3116 costs $4 a pop, TPA3255 is $14, and prices only go down when buying in bulk.
Just looking at the TPA3255 spec sheet and I think the results are in line with the power supply voltages. For total, 2-channel output cases (datasheet: page 11, Figure 7, 1% distortion curves) we are rated at ~120W. It seems if you want the max RMS at 1% THD you could push these at 52V. For the "max quoted case" you would have to run into 10% distortion (Page 11, Figure 6)
The ICs on these boards are usually rated at much higher voltage than the caps and other components on the board, I'd imagine the chip does have potential for a bit more output at a higher voltage but by the time you mod all the other crap on the board to handle the higher voltage it's no longer practical or affordable
Yep, I read the same pdf. Also these chips are used in many other amps, as a 2.1, meaning 2 of theses, 1 bridged mono the other 2 channel. The chip is a 2 channel PurePath Mono....weird title. A came to same conclusion as to the input voltage needi g to be at the 50v
According to TI that chip can take over 50VDC for power, in fact all the testing is done at 51V. From the specs this chip can only sink 100W into 2 ohms. If it is bridged it should almost double that, but that would require doubling up on the PSU too.
Thank you for stopping me from buying this. I’ve been a big fan of these mini amps, but can’t find a decent sub amp to power my old school eclipse 8810DVC for the house. Keep up the great work your channel truly stands apart ! Peace
For the price it's not terrible honestly, I've been thinking off adding a sub of some sort to my hifi computer speaker setup, this amp would fit the bill nicely taking the subwoofer RCA out from my Onkyo TX-8050 and powering a 6.5 or 8 in a custom box. I also have a Polk PSW-10 powered home subwoofer with a failing plate amp (buzzing), could fit the bill there as well. Maybe one day companies will learn to stop false advertising, unfortunately people keep buying from these companies so it'll likely never stop, they're way closer with their ratings than Boss Audio at least. Well hey, keep up the great videos, you're protecting people from falling for false advertising one video at a time!
For a power supply go with Mean Well, better quality than a chinese copy and not much more expensive. Would like to see more of these amps for stereo use, keep it up.
I have the 2.0 version of this amp and the knobsound 2.0. They are indeed super loud. It would have been cool to see this amp tested with 3 12v batteries in series. Keep up the great videos!
Love your channel. I'm an old school car audio guy from the early 2000's and Audio/ Video technician I really enjoy your approach to explaining the " nuts and bolts" with equipment. Keep up the great work!🔊🔊🔊🔊🔊🔊
A quick glance at the data sheet for this chip shows all the specifications test parameters using a supply of 53 volts, Derek. Crank the supply up to the full 48 volts. Retest. It’s not current that you’re short on at higher impedance.
I built a 12" sealed sub for my tool locker at work. I was limited on space so I bought a little Chinese bluetooth receiver with a "200 wpc" rating. I bought this thing to power the sub, does a great job for my purpose.
My 20 years old NHT SA-3 250 watts subwoofer amplifier died. Not wanting to go without my sub while I send the amp to be repaired, I ordered the FOSI. I was amazed that this little amp was able to fill my living room with pretty deep and clear low frequencies. From my non technical mind, this little amp definitely performs better than I ever expected! Thanks for the review.
This was surprising considering how highly regarded the Fosi amps are. You should have measured the input voltage coming from each power supply during each dyno test. This would've determined if the power supplies were giving the amp the advertised voltage. I suspect they weren't, but I still don't think the amp would've made the rated power.
I own the Fosi Audio DA2120C and LOVE it. I was using the Sonos amp to power my DEF Tech D9's and wasn't happy with it so i figured I would give the Fosi a try. Very happy I did, much cleaner sound and I like that the remote has bass and treble settings on it. Highly recommend
Can you read a number off of the 5 pin device laying down on the board? It is located in front of the power connector and caps. That is most likely the power supply for the low voltage side of the board. The maximum input voltage for that device is most likely what will limit your input voltage.
@@wal just an idea, for testing purposes : maybe just a small mod that could consist of adding a secondary power supply to feed let's say 15v to the board (stepped down from the higher input), BUT having separately 48/50v on the TPA directly (or replace the (unmarked) buck converter we can see on the board)
I have the Fosi 2 channel stereo with treble, bass and volume knobs. Input is 12v to 24v. I made a box for four 5.25 inch polk audio speakers and the fosi amp. Holy shit it kicks ass. Running it on my cordless power tool battery 18v straight, without a step down or step up converter. It's a loud Bluetooth speaker. The battery goes dead, just swap it for a charge one and keep on trucking. Lol👍
I got the nobosound full range version and am using it for a 100w 8 ohm center channel speaker used for my tv sound and it's more than powerful enough to rip. No tone control unfortunately but I'm more than impressed with it. My guess was 50 watts max and this video confirms that.
Unlike car audio amps designed to run from 13.8V power, this unit will not have a boost converter at the power input. The amplifier stage just runs from the input power directly. So . . . At 4 ohms, 115W is an output voltage of 21.4V rms, or +/- 30.3V peak. That means the amplifier has a voltage burden of (34.8 - 30.3)V = 4.5V. In order to get 150W at 4 ohms, we need 24.5V rms which is +/- 34.6V peak. Adding the voltage burden on top of that, we see that a power supply of at least 39V is required (probably closer to 40V). The average current draw will be 5.5A, but at low frequencies the peak current draw of 8.7A needs to be provided by the power supply (and that accounts for load only, with the amp's internal current consumption not included).
@@wal if you want power like that you need my crown amps i have 2 ce1000 and xls402 . the xls402 570W/ch @ 2 ohms, 400W @ 4 ohms, 260W @ 8 ohms, 800W bridge mono @ 8 ohms, 1,140W bridge mono @ 4 ohms. the ce1000 makes 560W/ch @ 2 ohms, 450W @ 4 ohms, 275W @ 8 ohms, 1,100W bridged mono @ 4 ohms, 900W @ 8 ohms
@@craigengelman4534 I tested a Crown amp a while back and it was impressive. I'll need to find the clips so I can edit it and show the test. I did have an issue with the bridging, but I'm sure it was something I wasn't doing correctly...
I use this on a SKAR IX 10" 4ohm load and it is OK. It will go into protect before i get to my listening level. it does gain a buzz through sub the higher the x-over is set. I have the x-over set to the lowest level and it works good, i dont notice a buzz unless the music is off and i am actively listening for it.. For the price and the size, its a good deal.
Thanks for this review. I got a Fosi DAC and the Fosi TB20A amp for my PC 2.1 setup. Bought a speaker to line level converter for the powered Klipsch sub, and the amp blew a cap. Like, I'd never seen anything like it, looked like someone stuck an M80 inside a giant yellow mushroom and blew it up. The smell was god awful. Contacted Fosi and they replied promptly that they'll send a repalcement. In the meantime, I ended up getting a Douk Audio amp that has a line level out, so I'll just shelve the Fosi when it arrives. The DAC is nice, really good clean sound via Optical from the PC, and RCA to the amp, no issues with it whatsoever. But yeah, the mini amp market on Amazon right now is flooded with Fosi, Douk, etc, which all seem to be made by the same Chinese manufacturer and tweaked for each brand. Although I must say the Fouk is nice and it runs super cool, while the Fosi TB20A always ran hot. Plus the Douk has an IR remote which is always nice I hate being saturated by BT and Wifi all day long, lol. Fosi also has the same style amps, with BT and the sub line level out, it's the BT30B through E, so I emailed them again to see if they'd just send the BT30D (the main gain/vol knob is slightly larger than the other four knobs on the D while the latest E version has them all the same size like the Douk) since it's actually about $8 less than the TB20A, so we'll see what they say. Good to see someone with real test equipment and experience getting into these mini amps, since they're so prevalent these days. Thanks, bro.
From my understanding the Fosi TB20A is a 2.0, bluetooth amp not 2.1. Why would you hook a sub to this model? Shouldn't you have tried the TB30a instead? I mean the TB20A was only meant to drive stereo speakers.
@@ADesertVoice Incorrect. The Fosi TB20A is a 2.1 amp. It is rated for 50x2 and 100x1 for sub output. It has speaker level single channel RCA out for sub and 2 channel RCA out for speakers.
I use a couple of the Douk Audio M1-Pros... these use the TDA7498E chip which is well regarded (160W + 160W). These are larger than the Fosi Audio TB10A amplifiers which use the TPA3116 (100W + 100W) by about 50% in terms of chassis size. I feel like the TDA7498E is more powerful than the TPA3116, not so much in overall volume but in terms of a fuller sound. Ultimately, if they don't do rated power it's not a big deal as you are only leaving 3dB on the table in table in terms of theoretical output (i.e. difference between 50W vs 100W). The nicest thing about these amps is they are convenient as hell and are more than strong enough to push bookshelf or tower speakers to unpractical volumes. The only issue I have with these is that the noise floor is relatively high... even with high impedance speakers and a moderate volume level there is an almost imperceptible hiss/hum if you put your ear right up the the driver.
Really like your amp tests particularly on lower cost items to sort out cheap from value. I would love to see you test some inexpensive home amps like the Pyle PAMP1000 and PTA1000 and maybe some of the lower end Audiosource models particularly noting how well the models with auto-on works and how quiet the models that are designed to be more public venue amps are (many models seem to have excessively loud fans which isn't good for home use). Anyway, just a thought for some new videos.
8 ohms with a 32v supply and an amplifier in btl mode=rms power math (32*.707)=22.6/8 ohms*22.6*.86 (amp efficiency per datasheet)= 55 watts 4 ohms " " " (32*.707)=22.6/4 ohms*22.6/.8 (per datasheet)= 102.2 watts This chip is capable of much more and can handle near 70v. 8 ohms with 50v supply 50*.707=35.35/8*35.35*.86=134 watts
YEP, 100% correct. No matter how big a power supply, if you only feed it 32V then you only get ~50/100W. This whole thing is lost on the Car Audio fanbois, since their amps all include inbuilt Boost Converters. They aren't (directly) getting 100W or 200W or 500W from just 14V
@Thad The chip is, but the surrounding electronics might not be. In particular, capacitors that are overvolted like to turn into pyrotechnics displays. 💥
@@McTroyd they are much better now, well maybe much is a little strong. lets just say they usually don't explode anymore when used within there v range and correct polarity.... usually.
I agree with other posters that the chip amp used is probably capable of outputting rated power, but only at 10% THD and only if driven with a higher voltage. However, in order to safely drive that higher voltage other components would probably need to be replaced with higher rated and/or more expensive ones. So while the Fosi Audio isn't full out lying the amp as a whole is gimped enough to get "close enough" for the average consumer not to notice and keep the price at a more reasonable level.
To be fair, I kind of agree with the happy book. If you have an issue, go to the seller first. Give them a reasonable chance to correct things. Then make your review. Still include what happened, but also how they fixed it(or didn't).
This thing totally works. Never believe power ratings, though, this or any other for that matter. Still it's working fine and that tells me any higher powered amp is just an overkill for most speakers anyway.
Curious if your amp chip even came with thermal paste. I had a few of the TPA3116D2 variants and they don't even bother putting thermal paste on it, making it clip faster than the heatsink getting warm
When taking the output voltage with the current, you do not take the efficiency in account. The ratings (if assumed to be true and not upmarketed) are taken as raw numbers. It's output power. So those volts times amps of the power supplies are taken as is.
those tpa amps usually need both voltage and amperage in the supply, if they're actually using the TI chip they have in the flashy sales page graphics, its got a rating to 50v max. (big _if_ there). if you're feeling froggy and want to risk smoking it for another video, try 50v :D
I absolutely love your channel!! I love how there is no nonsense and you state the facts while showing the facts!! So thank you for doing an awesome job with your videos and product testing... Could you recommend a channel that similarly test subwoofers? And again thank you
The power supply is total of 10A so 5A on + rail and 5A on - rail. If you can get the power supply to 17.5 volts and wire to both of the rails it should be able to do 10A (pretty big if).
is your amp dyno capping the voltage under 15 as indicated in the video? if so, that would explain the low results as you aren't utilizing the full power of the included power supply, and voltage is critical for these class D amp chips to perform at their best.
i think for that size though its over rated is its powerful enough for its size i would buy it still if i have a chance... thank you my friend for reviewing this mini amp
You were right to question the output of the Chinese made power supply. You should have followed up on that. Meanwhile, that little amp actually surprised me with how much it put out. I expected it to be less than half it's rated power, so was pleasantly surprised.
I decided to purchase this amp when the the amp I using started making a loud buzzing sound from my subwoofer when I tried testing the loudness of my subwoofer oh! I canceled my order quickly after watching this video I got my money back instantly
Great video big D. 100 watts is probably plenty for most people in an indoor environment. Lots of chatter here in the comments about the actual voltage available to the chip from the two power supplies, looks like a person could get a bit more power out of it with some mods but there may not be much wiggle room beyond what that included power supply can put out
A hundred watts on a decent efficiency ported 12” would knock the risqué pictures off the wall. If you have low power just choose a better sub and box design. Unity.
You wired the AC section of the PS correctly, and FYI, probably why you only maxed out around 5 amps was because of the restricting barrel connector, in addition to the fact that you had to drill it out, probably taking away some surface contact for amperage.
I know this is a 4 year old video, but what sub were you using? I just tested this amp against an alpine 12" type R and get minimal bass, def no power for sub freq.
Well i do seeing using it for a preamp for bigger amps Derek. I wasnt surprised one bit with the amount of power they was talking about according to your dyno tests.
Companies like this must be pretty confident that the people looking at their product won't just look up the specific chip they say they're using. Not all companies are like this, but Texas Instruments has _extremely_ detailed spec sheets that'll allow you to sniff out bullshit. With TI documents, you know how the chip itself is expected to perform in any of it's verified configurations, TI is very good about providing single ended, balanced, and bridged configurations with a variety of power figures, and a lot of the time TI will also give you a reference board design/product for the chip; which can show if a company is cutting corners on their product if you compare board designs. I would suggest looking up the TPA3255 chip. I'm not gonna ruin the surprise, but holy shit.
I'm ordering the M0-3 to power a 50w RMS 4ohm load. Should be good, right? I read that you can have more or less wattage into a speaker as long as one isn't drawing or pushing too hard. Thanks.
When I I got mine running, there was a lot of humming. Found that I had to earth ground the chassis of the amp to stop the humming. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks for all your great testing. I'd love if you could do a Fosi TP-03 - which has similar specs to the TP-02 but has a higher voltage option - std comes with 24V supply but can go up to 32V. I'm especially curious as to how this one does at 32V. I'm looking at a possible replacement for a failed plate amp on my JBL 250W sub and don't want to spend a ton of money on it.
Thanks for the info and video Good Sir from Williston Labs. Did you ever come across any mini Amps for home that I could actually get 200RMS at 4ohms. I have a low powered 12 that's 250rms at 4 ohm I wanted to run at home.. or can this amps 103 give a good bump? Thanks for any help Sir
Watching some other videos, a few mentioned it took about half an hour for theses to warm up then they shine a bit more. Not that I’m trying to defend it....
*I have a BRZHIFI DUAL TPA3255 2.1 amp on the way from China, instead of using an external power supply for power, it plugs into the wall using 100v-220v. Do you think these would perform any better than using the external power supply? It claims 600w for sub and 300×2 for stereo*
So a LOT of people in the comments are saying this guy did the test wrong by not feeding it enough juice to test properly? Why then is everyone giving this guy kudos for testing it wrong?
I've looked up the datasheet for the Texas chip. The obvious problem is that the chip needs to be run from a voltage higher than 35V (with sufficient current capability) to obtain the claimed maximum power output. It can cope with up to a 51V supply but if the other components on the amplifier PCB will tolerate this or not I don't know.
a question for someone who has it... since I see that Williston does not answer... ......Is it possible to connect a (Subwoofer PRE OUT) to the input (Audio in)?
I've been scouring the web trying to find out how I can use two of these amps as monoblocks connected to the single (left & right) pre out my vintage reciever? Can you offer any advice?
Guys i tell you: the M02 M03 M04 as well as the TP01 to TP03 line of amplifiers from Fosi Audio are made for exclusively for tactile vibrating experience. If, anybody wants to experience amazing bass shaker vibration for movies or gaming, look no further. THIS IS THE PLACE. THis is the brand line of amplifiers for you. AL those amplifiers i mention, will work awesome with all kinds of bass shakers. I personally have this one the M03 hooked with 2x100watt 4ohm rockwood tactile transducers for series X gaming and i can't describe in words how powerful this ampl. is, and how strong the bass shakers give vibration feedback to my gaming chair. I mean, driving down the rocky and bumpy speciall stages of Kenya rally in WRC game, having the sound knob to les than 25% and the frequency knob approximately set to pass 80 to 90 Hz, you feel every little rock splatting under you butt like in a real racing car. Amazing amplifiers, made for bass shaker tactlie experience.
That amp chip is rated by texas instruments at almost 500w @1% at 51v in PBTL mode. PBTL doubles the current capability so they run at 2 Ohms for that power. Feed that thing the juice man. I have a several chip amps. Most of them can do the power they're rated at if the voltage and load is right.
That aftermarket PSU you grabbed - looks like many included in 3D printers (well, most are fixed voltage instead of being adjustable). Any idea how much the voltage sagged down when it pumped out 5.8amp (just to get a better idea of the PSU's performance)? Def would like to see the manufacturer of the amp go back and simply fix those ratings. However I'll give them half a point of credit though - the output at 4 ohms (103W) was pretty close to doubling of the output at 8 ohms (55W). 55W x2 - 103W: that's only a 7W difference. And if one looks at it on the beefier power supply, then it's 9W difference. In both cases, that's only a 7% loss when cutting the ohm's in half - not too shabby as one usually see's a little larger percentage. Ahhh, I think I see how they came up with the rating in this case... 32V PSU, so 32V rail voltage... 32V / 8ohms = 4amps... 4amps x 32V= 128W... Then, 32V / 4ohms = 8amps... 8amps x 32V = 256W... Oy - no guys, that's not how you rate an amp! LOL
Hey Big D, power supply is only going to put out whatever the load allows, up to it's max output. So, your 10 amp supply is probably 10 amps, but the amplifier is only pulling 5.6. Also, would you be interested in testing a couple of pro audio, rackmount amplifiers? Cerwin Vega CV-1800 and ART SLA-4?
Hey Big D! I just ran across one of my oldd Bazooka amps in bad condition but it does turn on and play. (I only tested it for a minute tho) The BA1900D with dual 40a fuses. D, single sub channel. Do you have any of these planned to test soon? Or have one you already tested that's made by the same/sister company with a different name? Or otherwise similar comparison. It served me well as I remember, the RMS claims are 500@4Ω/800@2Ω and "1200w max". Big dummy math puts it at around 800w assuming 14.4 and low 70s efficiency. Thanks
Might be worth a retest with the right size connector, drilling out the centre probably means there was a bad connection with the centre pin which may have limited the power getting to the amp.
Yes those barrel connectors are barely even good for 3-5amps, and even at that they're going to heat up quickly. Strongly doubt the chip was getting the full 35 volts after a few minutes of testing. Anyone serious about getting max power out of this thing consistently would need to desolder the barrel jack and run a good 14 or 12 ga pair to the power supply directly
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Tube Amplifiers - amzn.to/3dj5YHB
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Manda número do zap Telefone
Hello can u make vonyx 3000w pro amp review and dyno test plz
Hey big D can you dyno the Bully audio Slayer MD 3k. It's on Amazon for a amazing price right now but I don't want to grab it if the specs are fake. It's claiming 3k rms @1 ohm not sure on the voltage
Test it again with your power supply at 48v, assuming the other components are up to the task that chip should do over 200W at 48v.
big d please Try to test it in 48v the chip can make it in up to 53v
Note
Before you that please checked the capacitor if it's more than 35 volt just to sure smoke will happen
👍👍 THANK you for doing a test on this amp. I bought two (with high hopes) for making a full range stereo system. BOTH utilized with 4-ohm speakers/loads. Not only did BOTH switch off stupid early (protective circuitry kicked in fast), but they don't even come close to making rated (RMS or otherwise) power. Both were bought on Amazon and returned for a full refund. To help others, I have bought FIVE of the Nobsound A2 Bluetooth digital amps and run them at 36v (using a step up 12v - 36v booster) in my DIY homemade boom boxes. They sound excellent, don't kick off (but, they get quite distorted when reaching full power), switchable BT on/off and are "rated" at 160w x 2. However, the RMS wattage is prob more like 70-75 watts per channel. They play loud, low, and clean. So, IMHO, I have had ZERO luck with Fosi Audio (have tried many of their amps) and am quite impressed with the Nobsound digital chip amps. Respectively, however, whomever advertises any of these Chinese chip amplifier wattage ratings is on crack. Thanks again for doing a test on this amp...hopefully it helps others decide what to buy. Nobsound hasn't let me down. Fosi Audio amps should be avoided like the plague.
Excellent feedback
Sounds like your a dealer or someshit pushing nobsound.
Great feedback - based on your input I just looked at NoboSound G2 Pro as a potential subwoofer driver - I might just give it a try based on some additional user feedback on the Nobosound site. Any further comments from a few years on would be much appreciated
Hey big D I just gotta say out of everyone that I have watched or subscribed to who does a channel dedicated to audio hardware and its related data collection that I enjoy your work as much or more than anybody else from this genre.
*Adequate info without overload
*Humor without being a goof
*relevant material on relevant products
Thanks for what you do and the transparent knowledge you provide to us Big Dummies out there
Gabes a Canadian for sure.
I also have to mention is that all these chip amps, be it TPA or the TDA chips will do rated power as they come from reputable makers like Texas Instruments or STMicro. The crux though is that the upper RMS rating is quoted at 10% THD, not the 1% that we assume. I think it's safe to assume at 10% THD you are getting into relatively audible clip territory, at which the amp dyno will not count up to, even under the uncertified test.
He needs more input volltage to reach rated power
@@JusstyteN Correct. The TPA3255 datasheet in fact specifies that the chip can do up to 315W at 1% THD into a 4 ohm load in PBTL (parallel bridge tied load) configuration, but you need a supply voltage of 53.5V to achieve that. Essentially, the amplifier is crippled by being run at only 35V. But before just cranking up the voltage one would have to first verify that other elements of the circuit (any other ICs, and capacitors in particular) can handle it. Also the output inductors may or may not be able to handle the added power. While the chip can most certainly do the power, a lot depends on the supporting components too. Also, the protection threshold would likely have to be changed by changing the value of a resistor on the board.
Also what is up with that PBTL/SUB switch? Makes no sense, like they got the terminology confused or something.
Some strange design decisions went into this product for sure.
@Dave Micolichek That may be a possibility with certain integrators but given the cost, the ICs are rather cheap. On Digikey the TPA3116 costs $4 a pop, TPA3255 is $14, and prices only go down when buying in bulk.
I don't think Texas Instruments made the TPA3255D2 chip they did make a TPA3255 chip though.
Just looking at the TPA3255 spec sheet and I think the results are in line with the power supply voltages. For total, 2-channel output cases (datasheet: page 11, Figure 7, 1% distortion curves) we are rated at ~120W. It seems if you want the max RMS at 1% THD you could push these at 52V. For the "max quoted case" you would have to run into 10% distortion (Page 11, Figure 6)
The ICs on these boards are usually rated at much higher voltage than the caps and other components on the board, I'd imagine the chip does have potential for a bit more output at a higher voltage but by the time you mod all the other crap on the board to handle the higher voltage it's no longer practical or affordable
Yep, I read the same pdf. Also these chips are used in many other amps, as a 2.1, meaning 2 of theses, 1 bridged mono the other 2 channel. The chip is a 2 channel PurePath Mono....weird title. A came to same conclusion as to the input voltage needi g to be at the 50v
According to TI that chip can take over 50VDC for power, in fact all the testing is done at 51V. From the specs this chip can only sink 100W into 2 ohms. If it is bridged it should almost double that, but that would require doubling up on the PSU too.
Thank you for stopping me from buying this. I’ve been a big fan of these mini amps, but can’t find a decent sub amp to power my old school eclipse 8810DVC for the house. Keep up the great work your channel truly stands apart ! Peace
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@wal Thanks for the videos you make and the hard work u put in. You have a real passion for hifi audio, and your videos have reignited mine. Peace
For the price it's not terrible honestly, I've been thinking off adding a sub of some sort to my hifi computer speaker setup, this amp would fit the bill nicely taking the subwoofer RCA out from my Onkyo TX-8050 and powering a 6.5 or 8 in a custom box. I also have a Polk PSW-10 powered home subwoofer with a failing plate amp (buzzing), could fit the bill there as well. Maybe one day companies will learn to stop false advertising, unfortunately people keep buying from these companies so it'll likely never stop, they're way closer with their ratings than Boss Audio at least. Well hey, keep up the great videos, you're protecting people from falling for false advertising one video at a time!
For a power supply go with Mean Well, better quality than a chinese copy and not much more expensive. Would like to see more of these amps for stereo use, keep it up.
I have the 2.0 version of this amp and the knobsound 2.0. They are indeed super loud. It would have been cool to see this amp tested with 3 12v batteries in series. Keep up the great videos!
Love your channel. I'm an old school car audio guy from the early 2000's and Audio/ Video technician I really enjoy your approach to explaining the " nuts and bolts" with equipment. Keep up the great work!🔊🔊🔊🔊🔊🔊
A quick glance at the data sheet for this chip shows all the specifications test parameters using a supply of 53 volts, Derek. Crank the supply up to the full 48 volts. Retest. It’s not current that you’re short on at higher impedance.
I built a 12" sealed sub for my tool locker at work. I was limited on space so I bought a little Chinese bluetooth receiver with a "200 wpc" rating. I bought this thing to power the sub, does a great job for my purpose.
My 20 years old NHT SA-3 250 watts subwoofer amplifier died. Not wanting to go without my sub while I send the amp to be repaired, I ordered the FOSI.
I was amazed that this little amp was able to fill my living room with pretty deep and clear low frequencies. From my non technical mind, this little amp definitely performs better than I ever expected!
Thanks for the review.
how is it now? is still up and running? I'm planning on getting this one for bedroom set up
@@automachinehead it’s worked so well I’ve never sent my NHT Amp to repair.
@@rafacq that's great. I notice that fosi and nobsound have the same internals must be using the same circuit design based on that tx instrument chip
This was surprising considering how highly regarded the Fosi amps are. You should have measured the input voltage coming from each power supply during each dyno test. This would've determined if the power supplies were giving the amp the advertised voltage. I suspect they weren't, but I still don't think the amp would've made the rated power.
Great input ( pun intended ) advice
measuring the source for efficiency
& accuracy before the amp 👍👍
I own the Fosi Audio DA2120C and LOVE it. I was using the Sonos amp to power my DEF Tech D9's and wasn't happy with it so i figured I would give the Fosi a try. Very happy I did, much cleaner sound and I like that the remote has bass and treble settings on it. Highly recommend
👌😝👍
according to its schematic that chip can handle up to 50v, so I think you can raise its voltage
The chip can but there may be limitations in the design of this amp which sets Max voltage to 35
@@wal Can you test it up to 48v? If it smokes I'll pay for a replacement :)
Can you read a number off of the 5 pin device laying down on the board? It is located in front of the power connector and caps. That is most likely the power supply for the low voltage side of the board. The maximum input voltage for that device is most likely what will limit your input voltage.
@@wal just an idea, for testing purposes : maybe just a small mod that could consist of adding a secondary power supply to feed let's say 15v to the board (stepped down from the higher input), BUT having separately 48/50v on the TPA directly (or replace the (unmarked) buck converter we can see on the board)
The regulator chip will limit the voltage to the circuit i think the regulator IC is the 5pin near the 2 electrolytic capacitor.
I have the Fosi 2 channel stereo with treble, bass and volume knobs. Input is 12v to 24v. I made a box for four 5.25 inch polk audio speakers and the fosi amp. Holy shit it kicks ass.
Running it on my cordless power tool battery 18v straight, without a step down or step up converter. It's a loud Bluetooth speaker. The battery goes dead, just swap it for a charge one and keep on trucking. Lol👍
Sounds like a sweet setup 👌
Heck yeah. Good work.
I got the nobosound full range version and am using it for a 100w 8 ohm center channel speaker used for my tv sound and it's more than powerful enough to rip. No tone control unfortunately but I'm more than impressed with it. My guess was 50 watts max and this video confirms that.
Unlike car audio amps designed to run from 13.8V power, this unit will not have a boost converter at the power input. The amplifier stage just runs from the input power directly. So . . .
At 4 ohms, 115W is an output voltage of 21.4V rms, or +/- 30.3V peak. That means the amplifier has a voltage burden of (34.8 - 30.3)V = 4.5V.
In order to get 150W at 4 ohms, we need 24.5V rms which is +/- 34.6V peak. Adding the voltage burden on top of that, we see that a power supply of at least 39V is required (probably closer to 40V). The average current draw will be 5.5A, but at low frequencies the peak current draw of 8.7A needs to be provided by the power supply (and that accounts for load only, with the amp's internal current consumption not included).
Pretty cool amp if you wanna use some car audio subs at home. Maybe they’ll make a 500watt version that does at least 350 lol. Great video
Yeah I guess they know the power supply needed for such amp would be pricey. This one is perfect for an efficient car audio sub though, you right 👍
@@wal if you want power like that you need my crown amps i have 2 ce1000 and xls402 . the xls402 570W/ch @ 2 ohms, 400W @ 4 ohms, 260W @ 8 ohms, 800W bridge mono @ 8 ohms, 1,140W bridge mono @ 4 ohms. the ce1000 makes 560W/ch @ 2 ohms, 450W @ 4 ohms, 275W @ 8 ohms, 1,100W bridged mono @ 4 ohms, 900W @ 8 ohms
@@craigengelman4534 I tested a Crown amp a while back and it was impressive. I'll need to find the clips so I can edit it and show the test. I did have an issue with the bridging, but I'm sure it was something I wasn't doing correctly...
I use this on a SKAR IX 10" 4ohm load and it is OK. It will go into protect before i get to my listening level. it does gain a buzz through sub the higher the x-over is set. I have the x-over set to the lowest level and it works good, i dont notice a buzz unless the music is off and i am actively listening for it.. For the price and the size, its a good deal.
The Internal chip can handle down to 2 Ohm and up to 53V according to its datasheet and it should do around 500Watts then
I'm really enjoying these home amp reviews!
Thanks brother 👍
Thanks for this review. I got a Fosi DAC and the Fosi TB20A amp for my PC 2.1 setup. Bought a speaker to line level converter for the powered Klipsch sub, and the amp blew a cap. Like, I'd never seen anything like it, looked like someone stuck an M80 inside a giant yellow mushroom and blew it up. The smell was god awful. Contacted Fosi and they replied promptly that they'll send a repalcement. In the meantime, I ended up getting a Douk Audio amp that has a line level out, so I'll just shelve the Fosi when it arrives.
The DAC is nice, really good clean sound via Optical from the PC, and RCA to the amp, no issues with it whatsoever.
But yeah, the mini amp market on Amazon right now is flooded with Fosi, Douk, etc, which all seem to be made by the same Chinese manufacturer and tweaked for each brand. Although I must say the Fouk is nice and it runs super cool, while the Fosi TB20A always ran hot. Plus the Douk has an IR remote which is always nice I hate being saturated by BT and Wifi all day long, lol. Fosi also has the same style amps, with BT and the sub line level out, it's the BT30B through E, so I emailed them again to see if they'd just send the BT30D (the main gain/vol knob is slightly larger than the other four knobs on the D while the latest E version has them all the same size like the Douk) since it's actually about $8 less than the TB20A, so we'll see what they say.
Good to see someone with real test equipment and experience getting into these mini amps, since they're so prevalent these days. Thanks, bro.
From my understanding the Fosi TB20A is a 2.0, bluetooth amp not 2.1. Why would you hook a sub to this model? Shouldn't you have tried the TB30a instead? I mean the TB20A was only meant to drive stereo speakers.
@@ADesertVoice Incorrect. The Fosi TB20A is a 2.1 amp. It is rated for 50x2 and 100x1 for sub output. It has speaker level single channel RCA out for sub and 2 channel RCA out for speakers.
Granted they exadurated the ratings a bit but for the money this is still a damn good little sub amp, 100w clean at 4ohm for $80 ain't bad imo
That sub sounds tight. Much better than the quad setup with the flutter.
I use a couple of the Douk Audio M1-Pros... these use the TDA7498E chip which is well regarded (160W + 160W). These are larger than the Fosi Audio TB10A amplifiers which use the TPA3116 (100W + 100W) by about 50% in terms of chassis size. I feel like the TDA7498E is more powerful than the TPA3116, not so much in overall volume but in terms of a fuller sound. Ultimately, if they don't do rated power it's not a big deal as you are only leaving 3dB on the table in table in terms of theoretical output (i.e. difference between 50W vs 100W). The nicest thing about these amps is they are convenient as hell and are more than strong enough to push bookshelf or tower speakers to unpractical volumes. The only issue I have with these is that the noise floor is relatively high... even with high impedance speakers and a moderate volume level there is an almost imperceptible hiss/hum if you put your ear right up the the driver.
It’s true but I’m a stickler for honest ratings. It shouldn’t be that difficult?
@@wal Totally agree! I guess marketing is paramount and a more attractive sell to the typical consumer.
Really like your amp tests particularly on lower cost items to sort out cheap from value. I would love to see you test some inexpensive home amps like the Pyle PAMP1000 and PTA1000 and maybe some of the lower end Audiosource models particularly noting how well the models with auto-on works and how quiet the models that are designed to be more public venue amps are (many models seem to have excessively loud fans which isn't good for home use). Anyway, just a thought for some new videos.
I was able to push over 40 volts input into mine, And that REALLY helped its power output.
8 ohms with a 32v supply and an amplifier in btl mode=rms power math (32*.707)=22.6/8 ohms*22.6*.86 (amp efficiency per datasheet)= 55 watts
4 ohms " " " (32*.707)=22.6/4 ohms*22.6/.8 (per datasheet)= 102.2 watts
This chip is capable of much more and can handle near 70v.
8 ohms with 50v supply 50*.707=35.35/8*35.35*.86=134 watts
YEP, 100% correct. No matter how big a power supply, if you only feed it 32V then you only get ~50/100W.
This whole thing is lost on the Car Audio fanbois, since their amps all include inbuilt Boost Converters. They aren't (directly) getting 100W or 200W or 500W from just 14V
@Thad The chip is, but the surrounding electronics might not be. In particular, capacitors that are overvolted like to turn into pyrotechnics displays. 💥
@@McTroyd true, especially those pesky tantalums
@@easyamp123 Those aren't supposed to explode?? Man, what I have been doing wrong all these years....?! 🤣
@@McTroyd they are much better now, well maybe much is a little strong. lets just say they usually don't explode anymore when used within there v range and correct polarity.... usually.
thanks for doing real testing on this and other things!
I agree with other posters that the chip amp used is probably capable of outputting rated power, but only at 10% THD and only if driven with a higher voltage. However, in order to safely drive that higher voltage other components would probably need to be replaced with higher rated and/or more expensive ones. So while the Fosi Audio isn't full out lying the amp as a whole is gimped enough to get "close enough" for the average consumer not to notice and keep the price at a more reasonable level.
SO THERE ARE OTHER AUDIO ENGINEERS WHO CARE ABOUT QUALITY AT THE MOST BASIC LEVEL? SINCE WHEN? Seriously, good stuff.
To be fair, I kind of agree with the happy book. If you have an issue, go to the seller first. Give them a reasonable chance to correct things. Then make your review. Still include what happened, but also how they fixed it(or didn't).
This thing totally works. Never believe power ratings, though, this or any other for that matter. Still it's working fine and that tells me any higher powered amp is just an overkill for most speakers anyway.
The Nobsound is rated at 100 watts rms. You should do your next test on it 👍
Man you deserve mare than 200k! Congrats bro 🍺
Curious if your amp chip even came with thermal paste. I had a few of the TPA3116D2 variants and they don't even bother putting thermal paste on it, making it clip faster than the heatsink getting warm
When taking the output voltage with the current, you do not take the efficiency in account. The ratings (if assumed to be true and not upmarketed) are taken as raw numbers. It's output power. So those volts times amps of the power supplies are taken as is.
Really love your sense of humor!!!!😂😁😁
those tpa amps usually need both voltage and amperage in the supply, if they're actually using the TI chip they have in the flashy sales page graphics, its got a rating to 50v max. (big _if_ there).
if you're feeling froggy and want to risk smoking it for another video, try 50v :D
Williston..... is the GUY!!!!!
😎👍
@@wal Mr. Williston is One Cool Dude ! ! ! Fred
I absolutely love your channel!! I love how there is no nonsense and you state the facts while showing the facts!! So thank you for doing an awesome job with your videos and product testing...
Could you recommend a channel that similarly test subwoofers? And again thank you
The power supply is total of 10A so 5A on + rail and 5A on - rail. If you can get the power supply to 17.5 volts and wire to both of the rails it should be able to do 10A (pretty big if).
More like these cheap sub amp vids please! good stuff
is your amp dyno capping the voltage under 15 as indicated in the video? if so, that would explain the low results as you aren't utilizing the full power of the included power supply, and voltage is critical for these class D amp chips to perform at their best.
Thanks for the video , I have bought the Fosi P1 tube pre amp.
i think for that size though its over rated is its powerful enough for its size i would buy it still if i have a chance... thank you my friend for reviewing this mini amp
You were right to question the output of the Chinese made power supply. You should have followed up on that. Meanwhile, that little amp actually surprised me with how much it put out. I expected it to be less than half it's rated power, so was pleasantly surprised.
Up the voltage to 36-37 I think you’ll see a bit more power out of it
I decided to purchase this amp when the the amp I using started making a loud buzzing sound from my subwoofer when I tried testing the loudness of my subwoofer oh! I canceled my order quickly after watching this video I got my money back instantly
Who cares
Great video big D. 100 watts is probably plenty for most people in an indoor environment. Lots of chatter here in the comments about the actual voltage available to the chip from the two power supplies, looks like a person could get a bit more power out of it with some mods but there may not be much wiggle room beyond what that included power supply can put out
A hundred watts on a decent efficiency ported 12” would knock the risqué pictures off the wall. If you have low power just choose a better sub and box design. Unity.
the chip "max" power output is base on 10% THD, the THD goes up at about 100 watt output at 4 ohm like a ✅ curve.
You wired the AC section of the PS correctly, and FYI, probably why you only maxed out around 5 amps was because of the restricting barrel connector, in addition to the fact that you had to drill it out, probably taking away some surface contact for amperage.
Congrats on 200k
Thx for another video...of an amp I looked at 100x on Amazon
Needs a continuously adjustable 0-180 degree phase adjustment for better integration with the main speakers.
Your the man! Keep the videos coming!
I know this is a 4 year old video, but what sub were you using? I just tested this amp against an alpine 12" type R and get minimal bass, def no power for sub freq.
Well i do seeing using it for a preamp for bigger amps Derek. I wasnt surprised one bit with the amount of power they was talking about according to your dyno tests.
4K audio huh? You're a genius
Thanks!
Companies like this must be pretty confident that the people looking at their product won't just look up the specific chip they say they're using. Not all companies are like this, but Texas Instruments has _extremely_ detailed spec sheets that'll allow you to sniff out bullshit. With TI documents, you know how the chip itself is expected to perform in any of it's verified configurations, TI is very good about providing single ended, balanced, and bridged configurations with a variety of power figures, and a lot of the time TI will also give you a reference board design/product for the chip; which can show if a company is cutting corners on their product if you compare board designs.
I would suggest looking up the TPA3255 chip. I'm not gonna ruin the surprise, but holy shit.
I'm ordering the M0-3 to power a 50w RMS 4ohm load. Should be good, right? I read that you can have more or less wattage into a speaker as long as one isn't drawing or pushing too hard. Thanks.
forget PSU power... Use a 12s Lipo rated for 50c or above. This will allow the amplifier to perform fully, and with out HF noise from the PSU . Try it
When I I got mine running, there was a lot of humming. Found that I had to earth ground the chassis of the amp to stop the humming. Hope this helps someone.
if you ground the amp and it stops then you need a better ground i say cheak all
@@craigengelman4534, I agree, however the power supply that comes with this amp has no ground.
@@captainspaulding4777 are you serius no ground !
@@craigengelman4534, Yeah, just line and neutral going in to the power supply. I was surprised too.
Thanks for all your great testing. I'd love if you could do a Fosi TP-03 - which has similar specs to the TP-02 but has a higher voltage option - std comes with 24V supply but can go up to 32V. I'm especially curious as to how this one does at 32V. I'm looking at a possible replacement for a failed plate amp on my JBL 250W sub and don't want to spend a ton of money on it.
At what point did it start to clip. Volume knob at 1 o'clock position? 2 o'clock?
thanks for testing out the fosi amps
Thanks for the info and video Good Sir from Williston Labs. Did you ever come across any mini Amps for home that I could actually get 200RMS at 4ohms. I have a low powered 12 that's 250rms at 4 ohm I wanted to run at home.. or can this amps 103 give a good bump?
Thanks for any help Sir
Watching some other videos, a few mentioned it took about half an hour for theses to warm up then they shine a bit more. Not that I’m trying to defend it....
Could I use this as an amp to connect to my DJ mixer + 2 hifi speakers + 1 subwoofer (no built in amp)?
I have the 100w. Version. It's very decent. I use it in a recording studio for a passive rel sub.
👌😬👍
*I have a BRZHIFI DUAL TPA3255 2.1 amp on the way from China, instead of using an external power supply for power, it plugs into the wall using 100v-220v. Do you think these would perform any better than using the external power supply? It claims 600w for sub and 300×2 for stereo*
So a LOT of people in the comments are saying this guy did the test wrong by not feeding it enough juice to test properly? Why then is everyone giving this guy kudos for testing it wrong?
I've looked up the datasheet for the Texas chip. The obvious problem is that the chip needs to be run from a voltage higher than 35V (with sufficient current capability) to obtain the claimed maximum power output. It can cope with up to a 51V supply but if the other components on the amplifier PCB will tolerate this or not I don't know.
What do you think of Fosi DA2120C? Likely way overstated wattage as well
NICE!! u did unveil everything, the inly thing left is what flavor it has.
Nice job Big D love the videos as always!
I have a fosi bluetooth receiver..hooked to some studio monitors..sounds dam good real high fidelity.
a question for someone who has it... since I see that Williston does not answer...
......Is it possible to connect a (Subwoofer PRE OUT) to the input (Audio in)?
Hey Big Dummy, is that your garage door door rattling? Love your vids!
I've been scouring the web trying to find out how I can use two of these amps as monoblocks connected to the single (left & right) pre out my vintage reciever? Can you offer any advice?
Nice bit of kit - quality from China again :) Shame that it didn't make the advertised power - I wonder if it is good value for what it can produce.
Nice vid. The tpa3225 chip has to be run at 48 vdc to achieve rated power.
Sorry 3255 typo
Guys i tell you: the M02 M03 M04 as well as the TP01 to TP03 line of amplifiers from Fosi Audio are made for exclusively for tactile vibrating experience. If, anybody wants to experience amazing bass shaker vibration for movies or gaming, look no further.
THIS IS THE PLACE. THis is the brand line of amplifiers for you.
AL those amplifiers i mention, will work awesome with all kinds of bass shakers. I personally have this one the M03 hooked with 2x100watt 4ohm rockwood tactile transducers for series X gaming and i can't describe in words how powerful this ampl. is, and how strong the bass shakers give vibration feedback to my gaming chair. I mean, driving down the rocky and bumpy speciall stages of Kenya rally in WRC game, having the sound knob to les than 25% and the frequency knob approximately set to pass 80 to 90 Hz, you feel every little rock splatting under you butt like in a real racing car. Amazing amplifiers, made for bass shaker tactlie experience.
can it be used as external 2 channel amp with marantz sr7010 in an atmos setup ?
That amp chip is rated by texas instruments at almost 500w @1% at 51v in PBTL mode. PBTL doubles the current capability so they run at 2 Ohms for that power. Feed that thing the juice man. I have a several chip amps. Most of them can do the power they're rated at if the voltage and load is right.
Please review the Fosi Audio DA2120C Bluetooth Amplifier 120W x2 Stereo
What is your opinion on the Rockford Fosgate T1 power series old school version?
That aftermarket PSU you grabbed - looks like many included in 3D printers (well, most are fixed voltage instead of being adjustable). Any idea how much the voltage sagged down when it pumped out 5.8amp (just to get a better idea of the PSU's performance)?
Def would like to see the manufacturer of the amp go back and simply fix those ratings. However I'll give them half a point of credit though - the output at 4 ohms (103W) was pretty close to doubling of the output at 8 ohms (55W). 55W x2 - 103W: that's only a 7W difference. And if one looks at it on the beefier power supply, then it's 9W difference. In both cases, that's only a 7% loss when cutting the ohm's in half - not too shabby as one usually see's a little larger percentage.
Ahhh, I think I see how they came up with the rating in this case... 32V PSU, so 32V rail voltage... 32V / 8ohms = 4amps... 4amps x 32V= 128W... Then, 32V / 4ohms = 8amps... 8amps x 32V = 256W... Oy - no guys, that's not how you rate an amp! LOL
I measured 5in length. Your tape was a 1/2" off on both ends.
Hey Big D, power supply is only going to put out whatever the load allows, up to it's max output. So, your 10 amp supply is probably 10 amps, but the amplifier is only pulling 5.6. Also, would you be interested in testing a couple of pro audio, rackmount amplifiers? Cerwin Vega CV-1800 and ART SLA-4?
Many of these power supplies are rated are max amps for some reason. Good and interesting video. Big bummer it didnt hit rated tho
Yessir, that was a concern as well.
@@wal I think a "20 amp" power supply would be better 😂
Hey Big D! I just ran across one of my oldd Bazooka amps in bad condition but it does turn on and play. (I only tested it for a minute tho) The BA1900D with dual 40a fuses. D, single sub channel.
Do you have any of these planned to test soon? Or have one you already tested that's made by the same/sister company with a different name? Or otherwise similar comparison.
It served me well as I remember, the RMS claims are 500@4Ω/800@2Ω and "1200w max". Big dummy math puts it at around 800w assuming 14.4 and low 70s efficiency.
Thanks
Hey big dummy appreciate these home theater amp test. Question. . . is there any home mono channel amplifiers that are 2 ohm stable?
Might be worth a retest with the right size connector, drilling out the centre probably means there was a bad connection with the centre pin which may have limited the power getting to the amp.
Yes those barrel connectors are barely even good for 3-5amps, and even at that they're going to heat up quickly. Strongly doubt the chip was getting the full 35 volts after a few minutes of testing. Anyone serious about getting max power out of this thing consistently would need to desolder the barrel jack and run a good 14 or 12 ga pair to the power supply directly
Hi, how would i connect two of these to a single preamp, i notice that it has left and right audio in, so how would i connect it.
Sweet camera work bro
Thanks brother 👌
Sometimes I swapped the input 1uF caps for 10uF caps for some gains.
But of course power supply does matter...
Nice mini amp, I saw the NOBSOUND NS-14G BLUETOOTH 4.2 200W 2.1 Could you do some testing with this kind of amps the 2.1? Excellent video.