Hello everybody, and hello Greg, that was a very informative video! I have to confess, I really like welding with dualshield wire. That is for two reaeons: 1st you can run hot setting out of position and 2nd the weld depostlited with my particular wire is stronger than the standard SG2 or SG3 solidwire. To be honest, my "everyday machine" is not what we are talking about in this video - it is easily able to put out 400+ Amps and so I'm using sprayarc very often, depending on the thickness of the material and position. But I have a small, cheap multiprocess machine, capable of 160Amps and it also benefits from the dualshield wire. With this it is able to spray with 82/18 Gas (which we commonly use here). This brings me to my point: it depends on the type of wire if it is suitable or not, not only on the wire diameter. There are 3 main types of dualshield wires out there: rutile, basic and metal cored. As an rough overview rutile is for out of position, metal cored for high deposition and basic for higher strength/higher alloyed steel. Besides this there are numberous different alloy compositions for each type. I don't know which that "blue demon" is, but it is not comparable to the esab filarc 6113 or 6138 and elga Stein MEGAFIL 713r that I use in 1mm and 1.2mm. These dig deep and wet out very well - even on the small machine (ok there is no chance that the 1,2mm will work on the small machine). I learned about the physics behind dualshield wire this way: because the wire is hollow, it has a higher specific energy in the contact area because this is signifficantly smaller then solidwire with the same diameter. The flux in basic and rutile wires "Cook" out any impurities and flush them into the slag. The slag also helps to stabilize and protected the weldpool while solidifying. If I would do a cut'n'etch on welds with this wire, would that be interresting to you, greg?
My dude, its highly interesting to me🤗. I think the root fusion is accept for a 2F weld. There is not a ton of depth of fusion but again, I think its ok. Based off of AWS codes and literature and my bias in inspections. I was a NDT guy for a long time. I am not a welder but I can weld up to several code standards. I really enjoy using .045 DS. But its only going to get that deeper depth of root fusion in the 3F and 4F positions. I think Greg is great and his videos are dope. I just have a slight difference in opinion in the conclusion. But thats ok as well. So I dont know how you would want to share that cut and etch. But I think it would be rad. I can only run .045 in my machine. At some point I will get a 330 trailblazer and suitcase. I would like to see how the bigger wires run. I cant really justify buying those machines right now. As my level of side work is not that big, but I can work up to it 😅.
It'd be VERY interesting to a whole lot of us! I've wondered if there might be a difference in wires-? Here's a potential idea: You ought to ship some or a roll of what you recommend to Greg, so that he could test & show all of us-
@@blueweld75 as soon as Position allows to spray it will get good root fusion. 1g,1f,2f work great. 3g&f uphill with some limitations 4g and 4f I had some bad results testing. With shortcircuit no problems in all positions, you can weld vertical up with no manipulation of the mig gun. Open roots are guite easy with a ceramics backing. For saying: I'm no welder. I learned it initially from my father and welded kind of "redneck" for many years on farm equipment. With learning from Gregs outstanding videos and later the guidance of some educated welders my skills improved, at least it feels like they do. There is no criticism to Gregs Videos for which I'm very grateful. I'm just sharing my experience with the wires I use.
Dual Shield on Miller Multimatic 215 is possible!!! I bought a 11 pound spool of Blue Demon 0.045” E71T-1C/1M to see if it would even run, and I am in the early stages of the trial, but the short answer is YES quite well. First: the standard off-the-shelf Miller Multimatic 215 or its big brother the 220 and its MIG whip, with the Knurled V-groove roller can easily run 0.045” MIG wires with the appropriate sized Contact Tip. The part number is T-M045. Before buying a pack, I made my own 0.045” contact tip using a #55 drill bit (1.33mm) and drilled out an old 0.035 tip. Just chuck up the Contact Tip in your drill, and use a small pair of locking pliers to hold the drill bit and cautiously bore out the hole, frequently backing off to allow the copper to clear the flutes of the drill. Using about 35 scfm of C25 (which my research showed was the best gas and flow rate), I felt was good enough to do a trial, but now suspect closer to 40 scfm may be better. Setup: on the control panel - select “MIG STEEL C100” which sets you up for DCEP To start I tried the Auto-Set for 0.035” Wire on 3/8” thickness, which yielded 24.6v @ 342 wfs which about where most my research pointed and was good for a quick test. After a few tries, I switched to Manual and made various adjustment from 22.5v up to 26.0v and WFS from 250 up to 550 ipm. For 1/4” I settled on a base line of 25.0v @ 320ipm WFS. The next adjustment was changing my Miller’s “Internal Motor Run-In Speed” from Automatic to Run-In Disabled. This was a challenge I played with because the WFS is insanely High and it had a tendency to push back on the gun a little before the arc was really established. Eventually I went back to Automatic Run-In as it felt less out of control. The trick to both ways was to have your wire Stick-Out about 3/4” (this was recommend by what I could find on this wire), and before pulling the Trigger, Lightly Touch the Wire to the work. This touching of the work prior to pulling the trigger, grounds the Miller’s sensing OCV to tell the IGBT to fire immediately. If you have any questions about How and Why that works that way, I would be happy to explain it if asked. I varied the Contact to Work distance and found 3/4” to 1” to be the sweet spot where this wire runs. Any less and you get porosity/worm tracks on the surface, any more and it spatters. I’m sure that sweet spot is defined by your Voltage, Wire Speed and Gas type and flow rate. You are definitely going to want a good thick pair of gloves at least for your non-dominant hand closest to the arc. I got my knuckles Toasted 😅 pretty good a couple of times. Greg- I think you would like running this combination on your workplaces Miller 215 from what I can tell. But I am a newbie with Dual Shield, and I am in Experimental Stages yet, but thought you might want to try it out for yourself. I would really like to discuss how this all went, but our emails are still not working. You have my info, and I hope to hear from you soon. In the meantime, I hope this info will encourage others with Miller Multimatic 215 or 220 to try Dual Shield.
YESSS!!! Just started watching....but I've been waiting for THIS exact video! Update: Well...... I'm surprised. To hear most of the others that use dualshield, they rave about the penetration, weld quality, and increased productivity. Thanks for all of your work/effort and for making another excellent video Greg!
The biggest thing I have heard is dual shield being a big penetrator. I know even bigger wire can get good penetration, but the .035 and .045 wires seem very limited. No doubt the .045 is starting to see some penetration but in no way should a person attempt to use .035 or .045 dual shield on stuff like 3/8th plate with a 200a home hobby type welder. So many people on the internet said dual shield was the solution to poor performance on thicker steel with a sub 210a machine. After the ton of testing I have done I am going to say that’s a definite no go lol.
I use the Esab 7100 dual shield in 035 and 045. works just fine with me. Some use the Select Arc brand and say it works just fine. I think you need to try either the Lincoln or the Esab dual shields as this is what industry uses .
YES!!!!! I BEEN WAITING FOREVES FOR THIS!!! GREG IS THE MAN AND I AM FIRED UP!!! 3secs in , going to drop everything and watch right now my dudes!!!!! 🔥💪 !!!
I definitely did a ton of tests and at the end of the day my takeaway is if you have 26v and 220+ amp machine that can run .045 wire, you could probably weld a bunch of 3/16 to 1/4 steel to ok results. I wish it just had more punch. The beads sure look nice though lol.
Yeah, dude your video was great and I digged it very much. I just have a different conclusion than you do. Great video and great reasoning as well. I just think based of off AWS codes and literature , that you just need root fusion and not necessarily beyond it. Like how spray goes way beyond the root. So there is an argument for depth of fusion but like you said, its like 7018. And I am ok with both, as long as there is fusion. I also have a bias cuz I have seen and inspected some gnarly things built with .045 dual shield. And some of those bits where welded in the 2F. More and more home 200amp machines can weld to 24-26 volts and they are affordable . I really enjoy using 24-25 volts for dual shield anyway. I want a smaller weld size in one pass for my welding style. The punch in the root really happens in the vertical and overhead positions, with this wire. I was surprised though about the 100 co2. I thought it was going to be bigger. Again great video and good reasonings for your conclusions my dude.You never steer anyone wrong. And you make videos like how I do on IG. So I have no problem using you as a source for folks like I do with welding tips and tricks and weld.com . Keep crushing it dude.
I find that dual shield .035 is really good for applications subject to a lot of vibration. We use it for trailer builds where it seems to have better elongation properties and is more resistant to stress fractures with cyclical loading. The penetration is adequate for the cladding but we stick to .045 or .063 DS for the structural elements or just run 7018 or 7024 depending on position.
Great thoughts thanks for sharing. I have done enough trailer repairs to know they need all the help they can get with vibration related failures. It seems all it takes is one cracked weld before a ton of other welds crack and now you have a situation lol.
Ive had so many issues with blue demon dual shield that I've sworn off the brand altogether. I find that Lincoln ultracore and Esab 7100 ultra are well worth the price increase over that blue demon garbage.
I am going to try another wire for sure. A bunch of people said the same thing, so it’s worth it to get to the bottom to try another wire. Thanks for sharing your thoughts because it definately pushed me to buy a different brand. Hopefully others are better 😀
btw... I fotgot to say that after watching your video on mig co2... I bought an used aluminium 20Lb 100% CO2 tank and had it refilled in Waukegan-IL for $29.50 ... with a millermatic 180, I saw more spatter with 030 wire when compared to c25 but I dont care much about spatter... for me strength is #1 factor since I weld my 8-cars trailer.
With a millermatic 180 I think you will have better results on 1/8th to 1/4in steel with c02 no doubt. The small loss in ductility will be made up for by the better penetration. Trailers are tough on welds, any lack of fusion and poor root fusion tends to produce a crack due to vibration. Just watch for undercut and try to not leave any on welds. The spatter can be helped by slightly upping the voltage by 1.5 volts over c25, and a good wire wheel on a grinder should buff it off. 😀👍
I love the video's but I think the issue is the wire you are running, I use .035 Lincoln Outershield 71M, 75/25 gas, it penetrates deep just like normal spray transfer but can run at lower voltage, I run this with a miller Multimatic 200, from a miller engine drive, it penetrates enough it will burn through 1/4" with mill scale easily, I can see the arc cutting into fresh metal. I also use .045 Outershield with a suitcase and it has never let me down yet, I do repair work on logging equipment, I have not had anyone call me back and say it broke. I need to run some .035 Outershield and see how deeply it does penetrate with my configuration, I have done bend tests and it has enough elongation it doesnt show any signs of giving up by bending a coupon into a horseshoe With the .035 lincoln Outershield, I run 25V and 450 IPM per the lincoln weld setting app informaton, It runs well and it is rated to weld 1/4 inch and up to 3/8 inch according to Lincoln.
I will be trying another wire, I will try Lincoln and see if it’s not the wire. It’s definitely worth the chance because the blue demon isn’t cutting it. Thanks for sharing the info 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgregI concur I use Lincoln 71M as well. My settings on 3/8 plate is 24.3-24.5 and 415” per minute 35 to 40 cfh of c25 gas. Very strong welds. I tested with a 6” fillet put a 36” handle pipe wrench (scientific I know) couldn’t even bend it. Duplicated result with kiswell, an off brand Korean wire, only difference is it broke my vice on that one.
Lincoln has a UltraCore (aka Dual Shield) 0.045” 71a75 on a 15 pound plastic spool. I have seen mostly 10/11 pound or 33 pound spools, but never a 15 pound 😮 spool! I’m guessing it’s about the size of a 10 pound spool but wound differently (slightly wider spool with a slightly smaller hub maybe?) to accommodate the extra 5 pounds. Most 200 amp class Homegammer MIG welders have adapters for 10 pound spools. Would a 15 pound spool work in our machines? Perhaps one of your many viewers can enlighten us?
For us diy guys, if we were to limit material thickness to 5/16” or less (most likely 1/8” to 1/4” thick), do you think Dual Shield is viable? I found 2 pound spools of 0.035” dual shield by WeldingCity E71T-1 for $18 on Amazon, and of course there is the much larger 11 pound Blue Demon that you were demonstrating. It sounded to me like you implied the 0.045 wire was by ESAB? During my research, I found out that sometimes in wire designation there is a clue as to which cover gas the wire was designed to be used with as follows: if there is a letter that occurs in the designator e.g. E71T-1C it’s designed for C100 if the letter is an M (E71T-1M) it was designed for Mixed C25 and if there is no letter, it is unspecified. Sometimes depending on the manufacturer, it is a combo like E71T-1C/1M I think it is worth testing on my Miller 215 (running on 240vac can produce 27v @ 600 ipm), but not sure if I should get some C100 and a spool adapter for the regulator. Not that I do heavy duty welds with any liabilities, but it would be interesting to use it on some projects. I have inquired with another YT professional welder who says the Miller Multimatic 215 & 220 can run 0.045 thru their standard whip. I understand you have access at work to a Miller 215, perhaps you could try a few welds and see if it can handle it (I am assuming it may be something you may want to use at work if it does turn out you can run either size dual shield wires). Perhaps I am mistaken, but it also looked like you were using your Miller Digital Infinity hood and oddly two different brand gloves, which I’m hoping we will get to hear how you like the hood and are testing gloves!!! I’m looking forward to hearing more a those subjects soon LoL
I bet the liner would run .045 no issue. Keep in mind if you keep it straighter it would be best, less chance of pinching the wire due to tighter fit. For 3/16th to just under 1/4 I definitely think .045 would work great. I guarantee you will find it far easier to weld with it out of position than normal mig. It makes really nice looking welds and the travel speed is very fast. Good eye on the gloves. I am finishing up some glove testing. I lost a bunch of footage when my camera was stolen so I had to rebuy some gloves that were destroyed and reshoot a lot of the video. I am also finishing up testing on the Lincoln/miller/esab shootout part 2, so I have to weld a bunch with all of the hoods. So far the miller has been exceptional.
Hey dude, I have a miller 220 ACDC and I run .045 71m Lincoln’s outershiled through it. I got the bigger liner and drive wheel for it. Just be mindful of duty cycle and pay attention to your gun dude. Guns are consumables and you can cook it. Dual shield runs really hot in comparison to the amps. I have burned through a 5lbs in a day of welding on a 10lb spool( this is a guess mind you.). And the machine and gun is fine. But my gun has been very hot. I just switch to 1/8 or 5/32 7018 and let my gun cool down, if I really need to hammer stuff. And I have used my 3ish year old machine like someone making money with it , in the heat and the cold. So I have been ruff on it.
@@blueweld75Wow Dude!!! that is some really good information! I have searched far and wide for that kind of info on running 0.045 thru the Miller 215/220 machines (according to Miller the MIG and Stick internal/electronics are the same, with the main difference being the AC TIG and a few adjustable features like Inductance). At least for now, I’m going experiment with the gun they come with, and I have a source of the proper sized tips T-M045 (for those who want to know), but I haven’t found the 0.045 roller yet. Do you have a part number for them. At least for now, I was just going to try the 0.035 knurled roller they come with. I am also trying to find a good Dual Shield wire that will fit on the hub. I know it can handle 10 pound spools, but the Lincoln 71a75 wire smallest rolls seems to be on 15 pound plastic spools. I think I would like to try to go with Lincoln and then maybe ESAB or Blue Demon if they are the only affordable options. I would really appreciate any details (part numbers etc) about the Gun Liners, Rollers, brand Wire and Shield Gas you run, and I’m sure Greg (uses Miller 215 at work) and many other folks would too as it seems there is virtually no info on forums or videos to be had. You have the opportunity to be the first LoL!
The specified gases differ in some regions. We have here for example "M21" gas wich is 82/18% argon/co2 or M20 wich is 90/10% Argon/co2. C1 is 100% CO2 and so on... Rely on the specsheet for the specific wire...
Greg... another great video... as I commented before... from watching your videos and my experimenting, I have so far decided to use Mig with c100 for flat and horizontal and FluxCore for overhead. One thing that I came across on the internet and I found interesting is Pulse Mig because it seams to be easier to run then regular Mig and especially easier for overhear... I have not seen any real good video on Pulse Mig or Double Pulse Mig for Mild Steel... It would be great if you could educate us on the topic with some real tests like you always do.
So pulse mig has a bunch of different applications, and unfortunately I don’t have a machine that can pulse in my shop (I do have one at my work). True pulse is basically a spray arc with far less heat input. The wire doesn’t actually contact the molten pool like in short circuit, but is instead a liquid. This is not to be confused with some cheaper mig welders that claim they can pulse, when all they actually do is run the short circuit process and either vary the feed rate or vary output voltage. True pulse requires 98-2 gas, and anything over 5% co2 is a no go. What you will find is a vast majority of cheaper welders don’t do true pulse and it’s common for people to have the wrong gas mixture for it as well. As far as what pulse does, it gives the capability of running out of position without weaving. Short circuit mig is tough to weld vertical up with, and pulse makes that a lot easier. Pulse also gives less heat input for spray, which is hugely beneficial on thinner material. It’s fast, has less spatter, more penetration, and high metal deposition than short circuit mig. The main downsides are machine cost, extra gas mixtures to buy, and more complex setup. I will likely get around to doing some videos on it, I will need to borrow a machine to do it with. 😀
thanks for the info greg!! I gave-up on vertical-up mig... I only do vertical-down... I am focusing on simple techniques to get job done as easy as possible. Since true-pulse needs mixture with maximum 5% Co2, how about "fake-pulse"? If fake-puse can allow me to use 100% Co2 and make overhead easier to weld, I would definitely consider buying a "fake-pulse" mig. There is a video on RUclips where the guy uses 100% co2 with Pulse. the name of the video is "HTP PP220 welding with 100% CO2". I saw miller had a true pulse machine called 255 but it costs $4,000.00 and I dont want to spend so much money on a welder. The HTP brand is about $2,000.00
Hi Greg I've met "dualshield" commercially. First-off - no way do your search for "penetration" - what you seem to want is not a characteristic of this wire and is irrelevant anyway. This consumable gives reliable fusion - not melt to the other side of the Earth... In a fillet weld you want to melt to the fillet corner. Engineering design - do not rely on something which is expensive to prove - so design basis is melt to the fillet corner and not more. This consumable does not produce deep "finger-penetration" ever. What is important - the fusion is very flat / uniform - as you rightly say. This flatness of fusion probably comes from spray transfer - which you want. Getting to what's real and good about "dualshield" * runs perfectly well on 100%CO2 - big saving on shielding gas - especially in a shipyard where can have CO2 mains and turn-up the gas shield - many "shipyard" "dualshield"'s optimised to run on 100%CO2 and warning must not use Argomixes * runs in spray at all useful powers (Amps, Volts) - basically all conditions - for smooth *spatter-free* welds (spatter-free = not wasting time despattering(!)) and on that 100%CO2 shield * one welding condition for all positional welding - something like 215A and 26V - lovely vertical-up simply follow the joint, let the flux sort everything out - can do this all day 215A positional including vertical-up is some productivity positional - not going to get anywhere near that with MIG/GMAW. Makes Flux-Cored Arc Welding / "dualshield" "the one" by a large margin for a lot of commercial welding. There is a higher Amp condition for running "on the flat". 2F/PB fillet and 1F/PA butt weld fill. So you only have two welding conditions - "positional" and "flat" - both invariant volts/amps spray - so you do not need a fantasmagorical welding machine which will also play "MP3" audio music files (sarcasm here) in the tough conditions of a shipyard or big commercial cactivity. Good solid renowned workhorse machines. No pulse, no eslup, no nothing. "Just" plain constant-voltage. Voltage - set the voltage "by eye" - correct spray-cone length - short&compressed - for focussed arc. Counter-intuitively - lowest spray-arc voltage gives most assured fusion, as you are focussing your arc on the fillet corner. Vertical-up - you can also control voltage so that you "just" fill the aim bead width - might add a fraction of a volt so fills to fillet size (face, leg-length) in a "natural" straight-run pass. Reiterating: * sweet on 100%CO2 * "spray" at every applicable welding condition * reliable fusion regardless of that fusion being modest * excellent positional welding * only two welding conditions for all jobs * optimal welding machine is the simplest & most robust
Thanks for your insights and thoughts. I can see where dual shield would work well on engineered parts/joints. The issue I have with the penetration is the lack there of will require rethinking how to weld things. A prime example is if I only have access to weld what amounts to a fillet weld from one side, the lack of any penetration will significantly weaken how much force it will take before the plate breaks. The penetration increases the leverage it takes to break through the weld. No penetration and barely any root fusion means the weld will instantly become a fulcrum point. Even 7018 (which has good sidewall fusion) has some penetration. Vibration will also be a concern with no penetration. I can’t count how many vertical down mig welds I have repaired on trailers that are oversized, have some sidewall fusion, but zero root fusion or no penetration. Such welds don’t last when they experience vibration even when they are oversized for the material. The results I had would be even worse with a less powerful welder which limits the application of that wire to welders most home hobbiest people don’t have. I will be testing another brand of wire soon, because I have been given a tip it performs better. I would like to see it perform as good as a 7018 atleast. My expectation was that .035 wire could perform as good as a 1/8th 7018 with a 200amp class machine, but that’s not looking too good at this point.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg As I have seen on macro (a fair amount) - the fusion is not deep but is uniform at something like 0.5mm to 1mm ish. AND it's uniformish from weld-corner to weld-toe - the edge of the weld. Surely this is everything what you want. Not getting your point about "finger-penetration" down the fillet-corner / root. Yes if there it would a bit increase strength but so much has to come right to have it there - including the "finger" must go down the interface between the terminating plate and the continuing plate. Not "run-off" into the continuing plate. Just - forget it - surely... Something to not get hung up on - with a fillet weld, there is alway that geometric notch aiming into the fillet weld root, regardless. Stress-raiser yes. Is an inherent characteristic you can do nothing about. Fuse to corner but by 0.000mm and fuse 0.5mm deep makes no difference - still geometric. Weld performance is usually limited by fatigue not static strength. I think, but have not proven other than you cannot sledgehammer-apart a double-sided fillet weld, that doing a double-sided fillet is a good thing if possible. Each fillet it protected from a lever-open force by the fillet on the other side holding-down - no "opening-up" rotation possible. When you weld a tube to a baseplate with a single fillet, the opposite side of the tube is serving the same function - still good. I can see why you are seeing some equivalence between application of 7018 SMAW and gas-shielded FCAW. Thing is though, cannot use gas-shielded FCAW outside. And you would never tolerate the productivity (low) of 7018 if indoors. Yes I have used a lot of 7018 on-site - a lot on marine sites. The one about GMAW / MIG vertical-down and citing what happens there - that is a nonsense I'm not going to go there - sorry - is a no-no. As structures get heavy and exceed the capacity of the crane to turn them over - yes I do remaining short vertical welds vertical-UP MIG / GMAW. Way to get it on an unfamiliar machine - get an on-the-flat bead-on-plate running right on 3mm (1/8") plate. Including all heat colours looking right front and back. That will be very close to the right condition to vertical-up heavy plate. All gas-shielded FCAW I've met has been 1.2mm (0.047")
The tin shed I rent only has 120 so I run on a generator. I previously had a functional shop with 240v. I have been looking for a new place to buy for over a year and can’t find anything for sale 😐.
Dual shield is used where you need high deposition of welding. And you need properties that make the weld hold up to a ton of stresses. And it has even really good properties in colder environments where things would become brittle. You might consider using this wire if you have an older machine without pulse for hard wire. So you can use an cheaper industrial machine and weld out of position with it. Thats because of the wire. So think fabrication shops. Like in ship building. You might be in a really tight hole way down in the ship. And you can set the .045 wire for something like 25V and 275-300 WFS and weld in ever position. And you can just keep putting in a ton of metal because its a wire fed process. Fluxcore gas shield wire was design for out of position welding . So vertical and overhead, thats where it punches into the root because of the fast freezing effects of the wire. But its never going to have a bunch of depth of fusion in position welding. I believe that the depth of fusion is adequate hitting the root in a 2F like in Greg’s video. You will also see Dual shield in bridge welding shops , pipe and pressure vessels shops, and even folks who build trailers at times. Dual shield has fantastic elongation, and Tensile properties. So it holds up really well to vibration and being pulled on. So think like big boy trailer with a big construction machine on it or like a bridge . Its not the best for outside welding due to the shielding gas . But its used everyday outside in tank building , ship building, construction machine repairs, and also bridge and buildings.
Heavy earth moving machinery apllys also. Welding the eye to an ram-rod or barrel. As said above shock and tension stressed areas. The properties of the wires are widespread and differ in cases of "flux" and alloy...
I think on 3/16th it would work well, but I won’t lie, it’s been a disappointment. I bought another spool of wire to try out to see if I can get better results, or if it will be another nail in the coffin lol.
if you decide to make a video on Pulse Mig, my biggest questions are: #1- will pulse mig work with c100? one youtuber said it works even though online it says it require a argon/co2 mix... #2- will it be much easier for overhead welding?
So pulse mig done properly is a true spray mode of transfer, therefore the shielding gas must be suitable for it. That would typically mean 95/5, 90/10 (or less co2) gas blends. My understanding is the higher the co2 the weld will become weaker. Now I can tell you 100% co2 prevents spray from happening. I also know 100% co2 slightly weakens the weld over c25 in normal short circuit. So for all practical purposes 100% co2 would change the welding transfer to globular and not spray, even with pulse.
yes... I remember watching your video comparing strength between c25 vs c100 and what you said about c100 being slightly weaker... I also read the same thing on the internet... but slightly weaker is still ok for me because c100 gives better penetration, c100 is cheaper, i heard that the mig gun (especially nozzle) runs a bit cooler because Co2 is a colder gas), Co2 aluminium bottle is much lighter and smaller... when I really need a stong weld on my trailer I use 7018 (and I am no longer cooling down my 7018 welds with water after watching your video on the topic)
something that I started doing and I would like your opinion is: because of how slow 7018 welding is, I started combining different processes to speed thing up... so I did 1 pass weaving 7018 and 2 overlapping weaving passes with Mig... I have used this in 2 flipper ramps that replaced on my trailer and I hard-tested the ramps in a way that I never use by putting a 5,000Lbs truck on the ramp(probably 3,500Lbs directly on top of the cantilever type ramp) and so far it all works great. so my question is: what are the side effects of combining processes like for example 1st pass 7018 and then mig?
You also need a suitable Gas. The more Argon, the easyer it sprays. I don't know the upper Limit for Argon, but the spec sheet for the wire tells this.
Both of the gentlemen are correct, it’s basically higher settings with a different gas mixture. It produces far more penetration than normal “mig”. The downside is it requires more voltage than most home hobbyists machines can run typically.
So the hollow tube doesn’t take nearly the amperage to become liquid as it leaves the contact tip. That combined with the additives in the flux allow it to basically hit spray in situations where normal hardwire wouldn’t be. At lower settings it might operate like a globular transfer, but using suggested settings it is definately a liquid and not a solid wire.
@@jasoncousins1343 idk where you get your information but there are only a few circumstances that i would want/need/require me to run strait CO2 and not many that you can't run a high argon mixed gas. For reference and fact checking refer to a mini pocket reference which you may want to acquire but also you can always Google for the proper wire references and on the Lincoln electric website it specifically says .... UltraCore® 71A85 from Lincoln Electric is designed specifically for use with high Argon mixed gas.
Hello everybody, and hello Greg, that was a very informative video! I have to confess, I really like welding with dualshield wire. That is for two reaeons: 1st you can run hot setting out of position and 2nd the weld depostlited with my particular wire is stronger than the standard SG2 or SG3 solidwire. To be honest, my "everyday machine" is not what we are talking about in this video - it is easily able to put out 400+ Amps and so I'm using sprayarc very often, depending on the thickness of the material and position. But I have a small, cheap multiprocess machine, capable of 160Amps and it also benefits from the dualshield wire. With this it is able to spray with 82/18 Gas (which we commonly use here). This brings me to my point: it depends on the type of wire if it is suitable or not, not only on the wire diameter. There are 3 main types of dualshield wires out there: rutile, basic and metal cored. As an rough overview rutile is for out of position, metal cored for high deposition and basic for higher strength/higher alloyed steel. Besides this there are numberous different alloy compositions for each type. I don't know which that "blue demon" is, but it is not comparable to the esab filarc 6113 or 6138 and elga Stein MEGAFIL 713r that I use in 1mm and 1.2mm. These dig deep and wet out very well - even on the small machine (ok there is no chance that the 1,2mm will work on the small machine).
I learned about the physics behind dualshield wire this way: because the wire is hollow, it has a higher specific energy in the contact area because this is signifficantly smaller then solidwire with the same diameter. The flux in basic and rutile wires "Cook" out any impurities and flush them into the slag. The slag also helps to stabilize and protected the weldpool while solidifying.
If I would do a cut'n'etch on welds with this wire, would that be interresting to you, greg?
where are you from
My dude, its highly interesting to me🤗. I think the root fusion is accept for a 2F weld. There is not a ton of depth of fusion but again, I think its ok. Based off of AWS codes and literature and my bias in inspections. I was a NDT guy for a long time. I am not a welder but I can weld up to several code standards.
I really enjoy using .045 DS. But its only going to get that deeper depth of root fusion in the 3F and 4F positions.
I think Greg is great and his videos are dope. I just have a slight difference in opinion in the conclusion. But thats ok as well.
So I dont know how you would want to share that cut and etch. But I think it would be rad. I can only run .045 in my machine. At some point I will get a 330 trailblazer and suitcase. I would like to see how the bigger wires run. I cant really justify buying those machines right now. As my level of side work is not that big, but I can work up to it 😅.
@@garthlandgermany
It'd be VERY interesting to a whole lot of us! I've wondered if there might be a difference in wires-? Here's a potential idea: You ought to ship some or a roll of what you recommend to Greg, so that he could test & show all of us-
@@blueweld75 as soon as Position allows to spray it will get good root fusion. 1g,1f,2f work great. 3g&f uphill with some limitations 4g and 4f I had some bad results testing.
With shortcircuit no problems in all positions, you can weld vertical up with no manipulation of the mig gun. Open roots are guite easy with a ceramics backing.
For saying: I'm no welder. I learned it initially from my father and welded kind of "redneck" for many years on farm equipment. With learning from Gregs outstanding videos and later the guidance of some educated welders my skills improved, at least it feels like they do. There is no criticism to Gregs Videos for which I'm very grateful. I'm just sharing my experience with the wires I use.
Dual Shield on Miller Multimatic 215 is possible!!!
I bought a 11 pound spool of Blue Demon 0.045” E71T-1C/1M to see if it would even run, and I am in the early stages of the trial, but the short answer is YES quite well.
First: the standard off-the-shelf Miller Multimatic 215 or its big brother the 220 and its MIG whip, with the Knurled V-groove roller can easily run 0.045” MIG wires with the appropriate sized Contact Tip. The part number is T-M045.
Before buying a pack, I made my own 0.045” contact tip using a #55 drill bit (1.33mm) and drilled out an old 0.035 tip. Just chuck up the Contact Tip in your drill, and use a small pair of locking pliers to hold the drill bit and cautiously bore out the hole, frequently backing off to allow the copper to clear the flutes of the drill.
Using about 35 scfm of C25 (which my research showed was the best gas and flow rate), I felt was good enough to do a trial, but now suspect closer to 40 scfm may be better.
Setup: on the control panel - select “MIG STEEL C100” which sets you up for DCEP
To start I tried the Auto-Set for 0.035” Wire on 3/8” thickness, which yielded 24.6v @ 342 wfs which about where most my research pointed and was good for a quick test.
After a few tries, I switched to Manual and made various adjustment from 22.5v up to 26.0v and WFS from 250 up to 550 ipm.
For 1/4” I settled on a base line of 25.0v @ 320ipm WFS.
The next adjustment was changing my Miller’s “Internal Motor Run-In Speed” from Automatic to Run-In Disabled.
This was a challenge I played with because the WFS is insanely High and it had a tendency to push back on the gun a little before the arc was really established.
Eventually I went back to Automatic Run-In as it felt less out of control.
The trick to both ways was to have your wire Stick-Out about 3/4” (this was recommend by what I could find on this wire), and before pulling the Trigger, Lightly Touch the Wire to the work.
This touching of the work prior to pulling the trigger, grounds the Miller’s sensing OCV to tell the IGBT to fire immediately.
If you have any questions about How and Why that works that way, I would be happy to explain it if asked.
I varied the Contact to Work distance and found 3/4” to 1” to be the sweet spot where this wire runs. Any less and you get porosity/worm tracks on the surface, any more and it spatters.
I’m sure that sweet spot is defined by your Voltage, Wire Speed and Gas type and flow rate.
You are definitely going to want a good thick pair of gloves at least for your non-dominant hand closest to the arc. I got my knuckles Toasted 😅 pretty good a couple of times.
Greg- I think you would like running this combination on your workplaces Miller 215 from what I can tell. But I am a newbie with Dual Shield, and I am in Experimental Stages yet, but thought you might want to try it out for yourself.
I would really like to discuss how this all went, but our emails are still not working.
You have my info, and I hope to hear from you soon.
In the meantime, I hope this info will encourage others with Miller Multimatic 215 or 220 to try Dual Shield.
YESSS!!! Just started watching....but I've been waiting for THIS exact video!
Update: Well...... I'm surprised. To hear most of the others that use dualshield, they rave about the penetration, weld quality, and increased productivity.
Thanks for all of your work/effort and for making another excellent video Greg!
The biggest thing I have heard is dual shield being a big penetrator. I know even bigger wire can get good penetration, but the .035 and .045 wires seem very limited. No doubt the .045 is starting to see some penetration but in no way should a person attempt to use .035 or .045 dual shield on stuff like 3/8th plate with a 200a home hobby type welder. So many people on the internet said dual shield was the solution to poor performance on thicker steel with a sub 210a machine. After the ton of testing I have done I am going to say that’s a definite no go lol.
@makingmistakeswithgreg that's why I love this channel. You don't just accept what is said, you test it
Nicely done. Non-welding tip: Liquid IV (available at COSTCO) works very well to keep a person hydrated.
Great to know, I was planning on doing a first aid video I will have to include that kind of stuff for sure in it 👍
I use the Esab 7100 dual shield in 035 and 045. works just fine with me. Some use the Select Arc brand and say it works just fine.
I think you need to try either the Lincoln or the Esab dual shields as this is what industry uses .
I will definitely do that. If it turns out blue demon just isn’t much good it will be a surprise. I could believe it though lol.
Thank u Greg a real incredible lesson today we really appreciate u God Bless 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Lincoln Makes the best wire PERIOD! They sell innershield now at Lowes!
YES!!!!! I BEEN WAITING FOREVES FOR THIS!!! GREG IS THE MAN AND I AM FIRED UP!!! 3secs in , going to drop everything and watch right now my dudes!!!!! 🔥💪 !!!
I definitely did a ton of tests and at the end of the day my takeaway is if you have 26v and 220+ amp machine that can run .045 wire, you could probably weld a bunch of 3/16 to 1/4 steel to ok results. I wish it just had more punch. The beads sure look nice though lol.
Yeah, dude your video was great and I digged it very much. I just have a different conclusion than you do. Great video and great reasoning as well. I just think based of off AWS codes and literature , that you just need root fusion and not necessarily beyond it.
Like how spray goes way beyond the root. So there is an argument for depth of fusion but like you said, its like 7018. And I am ok with both, as long as there is fusion.
I also have a bias cuz I have seen and inspected some gnarly things built with .045 dual shield. And some of those bits where welded in the 2F. More and more home 200amp machines can weld to 24-26 volts and they are affordable . I really enjoy using 24-25 volts for dual shield anyway. I want a smaller weld size in one pass for my welding style.
The punch in the root really happens in the vertical and overhead positions, with this wire. I was surprised though about the 100 co2. I thought it was going to be bigger.
Again great video and good reasonings for your conclusions my dude.You never steer anyone wrong. And you make videos like how I do on IG. So I have no problem using you as a source for folks like I do with welding tips and tricks and weld.com .
Keep crushing it dude.
I find that dual shield .035 is really good for applications subject to a lot of vibration. We use it for trailer builds where it seems to have better elongation properties and is more resistant to stress fractures with cyclical loading. The penetration is adequate for the cladding but we stick to .045 or .063 DS for the structural elements or just run 7018 or 7024 depending on position.
Great thoughts thanks for sharing. I have done enough trailer repairs to know they need all the help they can get with vibration related failures. It seems all it takes is one cracked weld before a ton of other welds crack and now you have a situation lol.
Good information. My tinkering got a step up.
Ive had so many issues with blue demon dual shield that I've sworn off the brand altogether. I find that Lincoln ultracore and Esab 7100 ultra are well worth the price increase over that blue demon garbage.
I am going to try another wire for sure. A bunch of people said the same thing, so it’s worth it to get to the bottom to try another wire. Thanks for sharing your thoughts because it definately pushed me to buy a different brand. Hopefully others are better 😀
btw... I fotgot to say that after watching your video on mig co2... I bought an used aluminium 20Lb 100% CO2 tank and had it refilled in Waukegan-IL for $29.50 ... with a millermatic 180, I saw more spatter with 030 wire when compared to c25 but I dont care much about spatter... for me strength is #1 factor since I weld my 8-cars trailer.
With a millermatic 180 I think you will have better results on 1/8th to 1/4in steel with c02 no doubt. The small loss in ductility will be made up for by the better penetration. Trailers are tough on welds, any lack of fusion and poor root fusion tends to produce a crack due to vibration. Just watch for undercut and try to not leave any on welds. The spatter can be helped by slightly upping the voltage by 1.5 volts over c25, and a good wire wheel on a grinder should buff it off. 😀👍
I love the video's but I think the issue is the wire you are running, I use .035 Lincoln Outershield 71M, 75/25 gas, it penetrates deep just like normal spray transfer but can run at lower voltage, I run this with a miller Multimatic 200, from a miller engine drive, it penetrates enough it will burn through 1/4" with mill scale easily, I can see the arc cutting into fresh metal. I also use .045 Outershield with a suitcase and it has never let me down yet, I do repair work on logging equipment, I have not had anyone call me back and say it broke.
I need to run some .035 Outershield and see how deeply it does penetrate with my configuration, I have done bend tests and it has enough elongation it doesnt show any signs of giving up by bending a coupon into a horseshoe
With the .035 lincoln Outershield, I run 25V and 450 IPM per the lincoln weld setting app informaton, It runs well and it is rated to weld 1/4 inch and up to 3/8 inch according to Lincoln.
I will be trying another wire, I will try Lincoln and see if it’s not the wire. It’s definitely worth the chance because the blue demon isn’t cutting it. Thanks for sharing the info 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgregI concur I use Lincoln 71M as well. My settings on 3/8 plate is 24.3-24.5 and 415” per minute 35 to 40 cfh of c25 gas. Very strong welds. I tested with a 6” fillet put a 36” handle pipe wrench (scientific I know) couldn’t even bend it. Duplicated result with kiswell, an off brand Korean wire, only difference is it broke my vice on that one.
Lincoln has a UltraCore (aka Dual Shield) 0.045” 71a75 on a 15 pound plastic spool. I have seen mostly 10/11 pound or 33 pound spools, but never a 15 pound 😮 spool!
I’m guessing it’s about the size of a 10 pound spool but wound differently (slightly wider spool with a slightly smaller hub maybe?) to accommodate the extra 5 pounds.
Most 200 amp class Homegammer MIG welders have adapters for 10 pound spools. Would a 15 pound spool work in our machines?
Perhaps one of your many viewers can enlighten us?
For us diy guys, if we were to limit material thickness to 5/16” or less (most likely 1/8” to 1/4” thick), do you think Dual Shield is viable?
I found 2 pound spools of 0.035” dual shield by WeldingCity E71T-1 for $18 on Amazon, and of course there is the much larger 11 pound Blue Demon that you were demonstrating. It sounded to me like you implied the 0.045 wire was by ESAB?
During my research, I found out that sometimes in wire designation there is a clue as to which cover gas the wire was designed to be used with as follows: if there is a letter that occurs in the designator e.g. E71T-1C it’s designed for C100 if the letter is an M (E71T-1M) it was designed for Mixed C25 and if there is no letter, it is unspecified. Sometimes depending on the manufacturer, it is a combo like E71T-1C/1M
I think it is worth testing on my Miller 215 (running on 240vac can produce 27v @ 600 ipm), but not sure if I should get some C100 and a spool adapter for the regulator. Not that I do heavy duty welds with any liabilities, but it would be interesting to use it on some projects.
I have inquired with another YT professional welder who says the Miller Multimatic 215 & 220 can run 0.045 thru their standard whip. I understand you have access at work to a Miller 215, perhaps you could try a few welds and see if it can handle it (I am assuming it may be something you may want to use at work if it does turn out you can run either size dual shield wires).
Perhaps I am mistaken, but it also looked like you were using your Miller Digital Infinity hood and oddly two different brand gloves, which I’m hoping we will get to hear how you like the hood and are testing gloves!!! I’m looking forward to hearing more a those subjects soon LoL
I bet the liner would run .045 no issue. Keep in mind if you keep it straighter it would be best, less chance of pinching the wire due to tighter fit. For 3/16th to just under 1/4 I definitely think .045 would work great. I guarantee you will find it far easier to weld with it out of position than normal mig. It makes really nice looking welds and the travel speed is very fast.
Good eye on the gloves. I am finishing up some glove testing. I lost a bunch of footage when my camera was stolen so I had to rebuy some gloves that were destroyed and reshoot a lot of the video. I am also finishing up testing on the Lincoln/miller/esab shootout part 2, so I have to weld a bunch with all of the hoods. So far the miller has been exceptional.
Hey dude, I have a miller 220 ACDC and I run .045 71m Lincoln’s outershiled through it. I got the bigger liner and drive wheel for it.
Just be mindful of duty cycle and pay attention to your gun dude. Guns are consumables and you can cook it. Dual shield runs really hot in comparison to the amps. I have burned through a 5lbs in a day of welding on a 10lb spool( this is a guess mind you.). And the machine and gun is fine. But my gun has been very hot.
I just switch to 1/8 or 5/32 7018 and let my gun cool down, if I really need to hammer stuff.
And I have used my 3ish year old machine like someone making money with it , in the heat and the cold. So I have been ruff on it.
@@blueweld75Wow Dude!!! that is some really good information! I have searched far and wide for that kind of info on running 0.045 thru the Miller 215/220 machines (according to Miller the MIG and Stick internal/electronics are the same, with the main difference being the AC TIG and a few adjustable features like Inductance). At least for now, I’m going experiment with the gun they come with, and I have a source of the proper sized tips T-M045 (for those who want to know), but I haven’t found the 0.045 roller yet. Do you have a part number for them. At least for now, I was just going to try the 0.035 knurled roller they come with. I am also trying to find a good Dual Shield wire that will fit on the hub. I know it can handle 10 pound spools, but the Lincoln 71a75 wire smallest rolls seems to be on 15 pound plastic spools. I think I would like to try to go with Lincoln and then maybe ESAB or Blue Demon if they are the only affordable options.
I would really appreciate any details (part numbers etc) about the Gun Liners, Rollers, brand Wire and Shield Gas you run, and I’m sure Greg (uses Miller 215 at work) and many other folks would too as it seems there is virtually no info on forums or videos to be had. You have the opportunity to be the first LoL!
The specified gases differ in some regions. We have here for example "M21" gas wich is 82/18% argon/co2 or M20 wich is 90/10% Argon/co2. C1 is 100% CO2 and so on... Rely on the specsheet for the specific wire...
Greg... another great video... as I commented before... from watching your videos and my experimenting, I have so far decided to use Mig with c100 for flat and horizontal and FluxCore for overhead. One thing that I came across on the internet and I found interesting is Pulse Mig because it seams to be easier to run then regular Mig and especially easier for overhear... I have not seen any real good video on Pulse Mig or Double Pulse Mig for Mild Steel... It would be great if you could educate us on the topic with some real tests like you always do.
So pulse mig has a bunch of different applications, and unfortunately I don’t have a machine that can pulse in my shop (I do have one at my work). True pulse is basically a spray arc with far less heat input. The wire doesn’t actually contact the molten pool like in short circuit, but is instead a liquid. This is not to be confused with some cheaper mig welders that claim they can pulse, when all they actually do is run the short circuit process and either vary the feed rate or vary output voltage. True pulse requires 98-2 gas, and anything over 5% co2 is a no go. What you will find is a vast majority of cheaper welders don’t do true pulse and it’s common for people to have the wrong gas mixture for it as well.
As far as what pulse does, it gives the capability of running out of position without weaving. Short circuit mig is tough to weld vertical up with, and pulse makes that a lot easier. Pulse also gives less heat input for spray, which is hugely beneficial on thinner material. It’s fast, has less spatter, more penetration, and high metal deposition than short circuit mig. The main downsides are machine cost, extra gas mixtures to buy, and more complex setup.
I will likely get around to doing some videos on it, I will need to borrow a machine to do it with. 😀
thanks for the info greg!! I gave-up on vertical-up mig... I only do vertical-down... I am focusing on simple techniques to get job done as easy as possible. Since true-pulse needs mixture with maximum 5% Co2, how about "fake-pulse"? If fake-puse can allow me to use 100% Co2 and make overhead easier to weld, I would definitely consider buying a "fake-pulse" mig. There is a video on RUclips where the guy uses 100% co2 with Pulse. the name of the video is "HTP PP220 welding with 100% CO2". I saw miller had a true pulse machine called 255 but it costs $4,000.00 and I dont want to spend so much money on a welder. The HTP brand is about $2,000.00
O⁵2 duel shield at the plant, back in the day 😏
Hi Greg
I've met "dualshield" commercially.
First-off - no way do your search for "penetration" - what you seem to want is not a characteristic of this wire and is irrelevant anyway. This consumable gives reliable fusion - not melt to the other side of the Earth...
In a fillet weld you want to melt to the fillet corner. Engineering design - do not rely on something which is expensive to prove - so design basis is melt to the fillet corner and not more. This consumable does not produce deep "finger-penetration" ever. What is important - the fusion is very flat / uniform - as you rightly say.
This flatness of fusion probably comes from spray transfer - which you want.
Getting to what's real and good about "dualshield"
* runs perfectly well on 100%CO2 - big saving on shielding gas - especially in a shipyard where can have CO2 mains and turn-up the gas shield - many "shipyard" "dualshield"'s optimised to run on 100%CO2 and warning must not use Argomixes
* runs in spray at all useful powers (Amps, Volts) - basically all conditions - for smooth *spatter-free* welds (spatter-free = not wasting time despattering(!)) and on that 100%CO2 shield
* one welding condition for all positional welding - something like 215A and 26V - lovely vertical-up simply follow the joint, let the flux sort everything out - can do this all day
215A positional including vertical-up is some productivity positional - not going to get anywhere near that with MIG/GMAW. Makes Flux-Cored Arc Welding / "dualshield" "the one" by a large margin for a lot of commercial welding.
There is a higher Amp condition for running "on the flat". 2F/PB fillet and 1F/PA butt weld fill.
So you only have two welding conditions - "positional" and "flat" - both invariant volts/amps spray - so you do not need a fantasmagorical welding machine which will also play "MP3" audio music files (sarcasm here) in the tough conditions of a shipyard or big commercial cactivity. Good solid renowned workhorse machines.
No pulse, no eslup, no nothing. "Just" plain constant-voltage.
Voltage - set the voltage "by eye" - correct spray-cone length - short&compressed - for focussed arc. Counter-intuitively - lowest spray-arc voltage gives most assured fusion, as you are focussing your arc on the fillet corner.
Vertical-up - you can also control voltage so that you "just" fill the aim bead width - might add a fraction of a volt so fills to fillet size (face, leg-length) in a "natural" straight-run pass.
Reiterating:
* sweet on 100%CO2
* "spray" at every applicable welding condition
* reliable fusion regardless of that fusion being modest
* excellent positional welding
* only two welding conditions for all jobs
* optimal welding machine is the simplest & most robust
Thanks for your insights and thoughts. I can see where dual shield would work well on engineered parts/joints. The issue I have with the penetration is the lack there of will require rethinking how to weld things. A prime example is if I only have access to weld what amounts to a fillet weld from one side, the lack of any penetration will significantly weaken how much force it will take before the plate breaks. The penetration increases the leverage it takes to break through the weld. No penetration and barely any root fusion means the weld will instantly become a fulcrum point. Even 7018 (which has good sidewall fusion) has some penetration. Vibration will also be a concern with no penetration. I can’t count how many vertical down mig welds I have repaired on trailers that are oversized, have some sidewall fusion, but zero root fusion or no penetration. Such welds don’t last when they experience vibration even when they are oversized for the material.
The results I had would be even worse with a less powerful welder which limits the application of that wire to welders most home hobbiest people don’t have. I will be testing another brand of wire soon, because I have been given a tip it performs better. I would like to see it perform as good as a 7018 atleast. My expectation was that .035 wire could perform as good as a 1/8th 7018 with a 200amp class machine, but that’s not looking too good at this point.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg As I have seen on macro (a fair amount) - the fusion is not deep but is uniform at something like 0.5mm to 1mm ish. AND it's uniformish from weld-corner to weld-toe - the edge of the weld.
Surely this is everything what you want.
Not getting your point about "finger-penetration" down the fillet-corner / root. Yes if there it would a bit increase strength but so much has to come right to have it there - including the "finger" must go down the interface between the terminating plate and the continuing plate. Not "run-off" into the continuing plate. Just - forget it - surely...
Something to not get hung up on - with a fillet weld, there is alway that geometric notch aiming into the fillet weld root, regardless. Stress-raiser yes. Is an inherent characteristic you can do nothing about. Fuse to corner but by 0.000mm and fuse 0.5mm deep makes no difference - still geometric. Weld performance is usually limited by fatigue not static strength.
I think, but have not proven other than you cannot sledgehammer-apart a double-sided fillet weld, that doing a double-sided fillet is a good thing if possible. Each fillet it protected from a lever-open force by the fillet on the other side holding-down - no "opening-up" rotation possible.
When you weld a tube to a baseplate with a single fillet, the opposite side of the tube is serving the same function - still good.
I can see why you are seeing some equivalence between application of 7018 SMAW and gas-shielded FCAW. Thing is though, cannot use gas-shielded FCAW outside. And you would never tolerate the productivity (low) of 7018 if indoors. Yes I have used a lot of 7018 on-site - a lot on marine sites.
The one about GMAW / MIG vertical-down and citing what happens there - that is a nonsense I'm not going to go there - sorry - is a no-no.
As structures get heavy and exceed the capacity of the crane to turn them over - yes I do remaining short vertical welds vertical-UP MIG / GMAW.
Way to get it on an unfamiliar machine - get an on-the-flat bead-on-plate running right on 3mm (1/8") plate. Including all heat colours looking right front and back. That will be very close to the right condition to vertical-up heavy plate.
All gas-shielded FCAW I've met has been 1.2mm (0.047")
maybe review 035 metal core wire like fab core 86r
Another thing dual shield has better sidewall fusion thats better than deep root fusion
Do you only have 120 volts in your shop?
The tin shed I rent only has 120 so I run on a generator. I previously had a functional shop with 240v. I have been looking for a new place to buy for over a year and can’t find anything for sale 😐.
And you want to be pushing your Dual Shield FYI
I did some experimenting and 10-15 degrees push or pull doesn’t seem to make much difference. Pulling seems to have slightly more sidewall fusion.
What is dual shield used for? Based on your video is doesn't seem to have a use.
Dual shield is used where you need high deposition of welding. And you need properties that make the weld hold up to a ton of stresses. And it has even really good properties in colder environments where things would become brittle. You might consider using this wire if you have an older machine without pulse for hard wire. So you can use an cheaper industrial machine and weld out of position with it. Thats because of the wire.
So think fabrication shops. Like in ship building. You might be in a really tight hole way down in the ship. And you can set the .045 wire for something like 25V and 275-300 WFS and weld in ever position. And you can just keep putting in a ton of metal because its a wire fed process.
Fluxcore gas shield wire was design for out of position welding . So vertical and overhead, thats where it punches into the root because of the fast freezing effects of the wire. But its never going to have a bunch of depth of fusion in position welding. I believe that the depth of fusion is adequate hitting the root in a 2F like in Greg’s video.
You will also see Dual shield in bridge welding shops , pipe and pressure vessels shops, and even folks who build trailers at times. Dual shield has fantastic elongation, and Tensile properties. So it holds up really well to vibration and being pulled on. So think like big boy trailer with a big construction machine on it or like a bridge .
Its not the best for outside welding due to the shielding gas . But its used everyday outside in tank building , ship building, construction machine repairs, and also bridge and buildings.
Heavy earth moving machinery apllys also. Welding the eye to an ram-rod or barrel. As said above shock and tension stressed areas.
The properties of the wires are widespread and differ in cases of "flux" and alloy...
.035 for sheet metal? 18g? Idk. Just trying to figure out why it exists lol. I may have to grab some and play
I think on 3/16th it would work well, but I won’t lie, it’s been a disappointment. I bought another spool of wire to try out to see if I can get better results, or if it will be another nail in the coffin lol.
if you decide to make a video on Pulse Mig, my biggest questions are: #1- will pulse mig work with c100? one youtuber said it works even though online it says it require a argon/co2 mix... #2- will it be much easier for overhead welding?
So pulse mig done properly is a true spray mode of transfer, therefore the shielding gas must be suitable for it. That would typically mean 95/5, 90/10 (or less co2) gas blends. My understanding is the higher the co2 the weld will become weaker. Now I can tell you 100% co2 prevents spray from happening. I also know 100% co2 slightly weakens the weld over c25 in normal short circuit. So for all practical purposes 100% co2 would change the welding transfer to globular and not spray, even with pulse.
yes... I remember watching your video comparing strength between c25 vs c100 and what you said about c100 being slightly weaker... I also read the same thing on the internet... but slightly weaker is still ok for me because c100 gives better penetration, c100 is cheaper, i heard that the mig gun (especially nozzle) runs a bit cooler because Co2 is a colder gas), Co2 aluminium bottle is much lighter and smaller... when I really need a stong weld on my trailer I use 7018 (and I am no longer cooling down my 7018 welds with water after watching your video on the topic)
something that I started doing and I would like your opinion is: because of how slow 7018 welding is, I started combining different processes to speed thing up... so I did 1 pass weaving 7018 and 2 overlapping weaving passes with Mig... I have used this in 2 flipper ramps that replaced on my trailer and I hard-tested the ramps in a way that I never use by putting a 5,000Lbs truck on the ramp(probably 3,500Lbs directly on top of the cantilever type ramp) and so far it all works great. so my question is: what are the side effects of combining processes like for example 1st pass 7018 and then mig?
Forgive my ignorance but... what is spray arc?
A specific welding method. Greg made a video or two a while ago. You need a higher voltage MIG welder which cN do this setting/method.
You also need a suitable Gas. The more Argon, the easyer it sprays. I don't know the upper Limit for Argon, but the spec sheet for the wire tells this.
Both of the gentlemen are correct, it’s basically higher settings with a different gas mixture. It produces far more penetration than normal “mig”. The downside is it requires more voltage than most home hobbyists machines can run typically.
Thanks guys. I'm still learning at the school of Greg. Lol
@@thegarbagegladiators4735 that's the beauty of it - we all are! Such a great channel.
How come dual-shield can spray with C25 or C100?
So the hollow tube doesn’t take nearly the amperage to become liquid as it leaves the contact tip. That combined with the additives in the flux allow it to basically hit spray in situations where normal hardwire wouldn’t be. At lower settings it might operate like a globular transfer, but using suggested settings it is definately a liquid and not a solid wire.
It's not a spray mixed gas is a fine globular and co2 is full globular
Are you running DC EP?
Yes, it definitely doesn’t run well DCEN lol
@@makingmistakeswithgreg
The dual gas wires are not as good as wires specifically designed for co2 like Lincoln ultracore HD-C
Are you saying Ultracore is best with CO2?
I'm saying it only runs on straight co2
@@jasoncousins1343
idk where you get your information but there are only a few circumstances that i would want/need/require me to run strait CO2 and not many that you can't run a high argon mixed gas. For reference and fact checking refer to a mini pocket reference which you may want to acquire but also you can always Google for the proper wire references and on the Lincoln electric website it specifically says .... UltraCore® 71A85 from Lincoln Electric is designed specifically for use with high Argon mixed gas.