Thanks Chris, I have seen almost all your videos and I learned a lot, right now I am working on the restoration of my 67 bug but I don't have to much experience and with your videos is so easy to do the job . thanks one more time
I just rebuilt the 40 horse in our ‘64. I adjusted the value at .008/.012. Started it up for the first time and the engine sounded like it was falling apart! Scared the crap outta me! I finally tracked it down to loose valves. So I adjusted to .008 ... better but still too noisy. Readjusted to .006; better but still clacking! Finally settled at .004 and it sounds pretty good. Hopefully, things will “seat” better over the next few thousand miles and get even quieter on the next few adjustments.
Chris, i had a 61 with the 40 hp and i remember the dealer telling me 008 and 012, if they are loose it will just be a little noisy but too tight and you'll burn the valves
Like your videos. recently looked at the one to static time your bug. I know it's an easy task but a novice may want to know that the car should be in neutral in order to turn the pulley.
Here in the Philippines I read from vwcp.org that some vw owners put diesel oil on their engines. The temperature here in the Philippines is hot. They say it keeps the engine cool because of the viscosity of diesel oils. The only downside they say diesel oil get easily gets dirty and frequent oil change is a must. Since it's cheap it ok. Personally I have not tried it. I use mobile oil and pertua oil additive. :-)
Your vids are great!! I'm getting a 72 super this week, do you recommend I change the oil before I try to start it or should I just get it fired to see how far gone it might be.
Big mistake -- retorquing the heads the way you say is NOT right. It can't be because you completely ignore the upper head nuts! There is no way that you can correctly retorque a head and ignore half of the head nuts. To do it correctly, however, is a huge hassle because the upper nuts are blocked by the tin and to get to them you basically have to remove all of the stuff on top of the case, So, what is the real solution: simple - when you assemble the engine, over-torque the head nuts by 3 foot pound and blue locktight them This will do the trick with no need to ever retorque. You do have to be extra careful that the stud threads and nut threads are extra clean and go together butter smooth. But if you do this, then there is no problem and no need to retorque. Finally, when you install the engine in the car and go to start it up, be extra careful that the clutch pedal has some free play. I have actually seen cases where this idiot-proofing was forgotten, and five minutes into the warm-up the engine seized because of the excess heat on the thrust bearing.
@brighteyefilms Yeah I know it sounds like the gen light should be doing that esp if the belt slips, but I just changed the belt and the red (gen) light I know for a fact is responding correctly. The oil *green light now stays consistently on at idle which is a BAD sign. When I push the throttle it goes off. So I think it has something to do with the oil pressure. Maybe the Pressure Relief Valve? What do you think? Increased the idle speed set the green light off temporarily then not. valves.006
love the videos. I took my 76 bug to my mechanic today after my engine was idling really loud. It sounded like a damn lawnmower, and the car would shake a little while idling at a red light. My mechanic told me that the spark plug is most likely bad or the head itself is bad. He said that if the head is blown, it could cost around $400. to replace the head because he has to remove the entire engine to diagnose and fix the problem. Do these symptoms sound typical of a bad spark plug or head?
@brighteyesfilms I'm going this weekend to pick it up sight unseen, it's a STEAL so I'm getting it regardless. The owners are original to the car , they say the can start it right now but after seeing pics I asked them not to until I go and see for myself. This will be the first V Dub I deal with so I've been researching your vids
nice video! I have a question: the engine that was shown in this video, is that engine tin powdercoated? it looks really nice! What do you use to paint the intake manifhold? thank you for your help!!
Chris would you recommend a shorter time frame between valve adjustments/oil changes if you do a lot of highway driving? My normal commute is 12 mi RT, but for 4 months job is sending me to a 130mi RT and don't wanna have engine problems
My beetle is very hard to start, im allways worried that it won't, but when it is running it runs good and sounds good. the only problem is that its very hard to start, im gonna change the spark plugs on it, is there anything else that could be wrong with the engine?
@brighteyefilms no. I haven't done a compression check. What's the normal range of compression? What do you suggest the valves be? Is it a good idea to clean off the oil pressure relief valve anyway, see if that sorts it out, and if not then do a compression check?
my brakes squeak when i apply the brake pedal. My mechanic told me it is most likely brake dust in the drums. I've tried to get him to clean the drums,but he said it will most likely come back and squeak again. Is this pretty easy to clean. Any input is appreciated.Thanks.
I have a 1967 Bug and I need some tips on removing the hardtop sunroof for repairs and painting. I did this 30 years ago but I've forgotten how its done. Anybody know how to do this?
Hey CV I got a question. I just recently did an oil change and valve adjustment on my '63 VW and at first it was singing like an angel and running like an Olympian and then something wrong happened. The green light (oil) kept flickering on and off and I tried it again today and the same problem is happening. I checked the oil but it's still good since i just changed it. When the car runs or i push the throttle (at idle) the light is off, but when it idles on its own the light is on? help? ideas?
Thanks Chris, I have seen almost all your videos and I learned a lot, right now I am working on the restoration of my 67 bug but I don't have to much experience and with your videos is so easy to do the job .
thanks one more time
I just rebuilt the 40 horse in our ‘64. I adjusted the value at .008/.012. Started it up for the first time and the engine sounded like it was falling apart! Scared the crap outta me! I finally tracked it down to loose valves. So I adjusted to .008 ... better but still too noisy. Readjusted to .006; better but still clacking! Finally settled at .004 and it sounds pretty good. Hopefully, things will “seat” better over the next few thousand miles and get even quieter on the next few adjustments.
thanks for your input. I had another mechanic at another garage try that and it worked. Squeaky brakes are like nails on a chalkboard.
you should make a video on how to adjust your valves
Am i the only person that snickered at "smell your gas"?
another great vid, Chris. you and your bugs are the bomb.
Chris, i had a 61 with the 40 hp and i remember the dealer telling me 008 and 012, if they are loose it will just be a little noisy but too tight and you'll burn the valves
The oil i use is Valvoline racing oil 10w 40 because it has more zinc in it which my mechanic says help with wear of a vw engine
Like your videos. recently looked at the one to static time your bug. I know it's an easy task but a novice may want to know that the car should be in neutral in order to turn the pulley.
Here in the Philippines I read from vwcp.org that some vw owners put diesel oil on their engines. The temperature here in the Philippines is hot. They say it keeps the engine cool because of the viscosity of diesel oils. The only downside they say diesel oil get easily gets dirty and frequent oil change is a must. Since it's cheap it ok. Personally I have not tried it. I use mobile oil and pertua oil additive. :-)
I would like 2 say thanks 4 your advice on using fish wirer to pull the dome light wiring through the dome light hole. It worked perfect .
Good advice Chris. Hope you don't mind, I've posted it up on Volks Culture's Facebook page
Swepco oil, Willhoit Porsche of Long Beach, CA, runs it on their 356 performance engines.
Follow the Bentley manual for valve lash, unless using an aftermarket cam....
@brighteyefilms I see. No need for the magnet from old speakers. Tnx. :-)
Your vids are great!! I'm getting a 72 super this week, do you recommend I change the oil before I try to start it or should I just get it fired to see how far gone it might be.
Big mistake -- retorquing the heads the way you say is NOT right. It can't be because you completely ignore the upper head nuts! There is no way that you can correctly retorque a head and ignore half of the head nuts. To do it correctly, however, is a huge hassle because the upper nuts are blocked by the tin and to get to them you basically have to remove all of the stuff on top of the case,
So, what is the real solution: simple - when you assemble the engine, over-torque the head nuts by 3 foot pound and blue locktight them This will do the trick with no need to ever retorque. You do have to be extra careful that the stud threads and nut threads are extra clean and go together butter smooth. But if you do this, then there is no problem and no need to retorque.
Finally, when you install the engine in the car and go to start it up, be extra careful that the clutch pedal has some free play. I have actually seen cases where this idiot-proofing was forgotten, and five minutes into the warm-up the engine seized because of the excess heat on the thrust bearing.
@brighteyefilms that must be the best job in the world, here where i live there is only about a dusin beetles left.
@brighteyefilms Yeah I know it sounds like the gen light should be doing that esp if the belt slips, but I just changed the belt and the red (gen) light I know for a fact is responding correctly. The oil *green light now stays consistently on at idle which is a BAD sign. When I push the throttle it goes off. So I think it has something to do with the oil pressure. Maybe the Pressure Relief Valve? What do you think? Increased the idle speed set the green light off temporarily then not. valves.006
not a bug owner but still some interesting stuff, I havnt really seen a "pancake" motor before
love the videos. I took my 76 bug to my mechanic today after my engine was idling really loud. It sounded like a damn lawnmower, and the car would shake a little while idling at a red light. My mechanic told me that the spark plug is most likely bad or the head itself is bad. He said that if the head is blown, it could cost around $400. to replace the head because he has to remove the entire engine to diagnose and fix the problem. Do these symptoms sound typical of a bad spark plug or head?
@brighteyesfilms I'm going this weekend to pick it up sight unseen, it's a STEAL so I'm getting it regardless. The owners are original to the car , they say the can start it right now but after seeing pics I asked them not to until I go and see for myself. This will be the first V Dub I deal with so I've been researching your vids
nice video!
I have a question: the engine that was shown in this video, is that engine tin powdercoated? it looks really nice! What do you use to paint the intake manifhold?
thank you for your help!!
What I heard is that if your spark plugs are shot your engine wont even try to start. Thats just what I heard.
Interesting video.whats the colour of the green beetle??
Thanx and greats from France .🇫🇷
Green or the blue? The one behind me is blue.
I mean blue sorry 🙏
@@martialthielen7675 www.wolfsburgwest.com/colors/67l633.htm
here in brazil we use 20w 50 oil , i prefer to use the diesel 20w50 oil, is better because clean better the engine .
+Caio Zorzenoni Who told you this info?
+Chris Vallone Basic oil is fine.
Chris Vallone marcelo tonella told me . he have a Chanel on youtube ( marcelo tonella)
This oil have a better charge of adictives and clean better the engine
Is it true that attaching old speaker magnet in the metal oil sump cover beneficial to the VW engine? They say it will attract micro metal dust.?
Chris would you recommend a shorter time frame between valve adjustments/oil changes if you do a lot of highway driving? My normal commute is 12 mi RT, but for 4 months job is sending me to a 130mi RT and don't wanna have engine problems
My beetle is very hard to start, im allways worried that it won't, but when it is running it runs good and sounds good. the only problem is that its very hard to start, im gonna change the spark plugs on it, is there anything else that could be wrong with the engine?
@ThRAsHeRsKateR It's the same as mine, it's called "VW Jazz Blue"
What is the name of that color on the bug behind you? It is a very nice color.
@brighteyefilms no. I haven't done a compression check. What's the normal range of compression? What do you suggest the valves be? Is it a good idea to clean off the oil pressure relief valve anyway, see if that sorts it out, and if not then do a compression check?
What about extra zinc? Most oil don't have as much.
What do you think about putting that seafoam stuff in the gas tank over the winter?
my brakes squeak when i apply the brake pedal. My mechanic told me it is most likely brake dust in the drums. I've tried to get him to clean the drums,but he said it will most likely come back and squeak again. Is this pretty easy to clean. Any input is appreciated.Thanks.
Thanks, good video.
good job man
what about summer time oil i live where it gets to about 110
How about Marvel Mystery Oil mixed in...your thoughts?
thanks for the info
I have a 1967 Bug and I need some tips on removing the hardtop sunroof for repairs and painting.
I did this 30 years ago but I've forgotten how its done. Anybody know how to do this?
I'm wondering if u have a basic rewiring way of wiring 4 a novice (first timer Volkswagen restorer)
what is the thing some times on the center of the steering wheel or the silver strip on the bonit/hood that looks like a H?
hi Chris wanted to ask I want to buy a bug as a daily driver what year do you think I should buy and r they cheap to maintain
What are the torque specs for the bolts that hold the rocker in?
i use 10-30 is that ok?
Hey CV I got a question. I just recently did an oil change and valve adjustment on my '63 VW and at first it was singing like an angel and running like an Olympian and then something wrong happened. The green light (oil) kept flickering on and off and I tried it again today and the same problem is happening. I checked the oil but it's still good since i just changed it. When the car runs or i push the throttle (at idle) the light is off, but when it idles on its own the light is on? help? ideas?
Usually this means its time for a rebuild get a pressure gage to confirm a good rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000rpm
how do you afford all myour bugs?
I need come work for you
I thought HD meant Heavy Duty
HD = High Detergent. Common misconception.
thanks cj
WooHoo thesamba!
kick out the mice
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