FJ Cruiser Build Pt 9 - Remote Controlled Lighting & DIY Dual Battery Setup
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
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In this episode we install a dual battery setup on the FJ for dedicated power to accessories without draining the main car battery. After that we install a remote controlled circuit to turn the light bars on and off remotely.
Link to the remote controlled circuit kit - www.amazon.com...
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Music:
02:30 - Welcome To Ibiza 1 - Andreas Ericson
07:16 - My Perfect Beat 3 - Andreas Ericson
14:04 - Fareoh - Cloud Ten
Use a battery isolator, automatically connects the two batteries when the vehicle is running and disconnects once the vehicle isn't. It's essentially a high amperage solenoid that you can wire the signal to either your ignition or a switch on the dash.
Should use a deep cycle battery instead if you plan on using it till its dead and charging it back up. Thats what a deep cycle battery is used for. They have a reserve capacity.
The guy in this video has a pretty good battery set up.
You really DO NOT want to parallel a disharged battery to a full one. Not without any kind of current limiter.
Nebbia affaraccimiei The only resistance holding it back is the internal resistance of the batteries and the wires. That's probably around 0.05 ohms. That would be around 240 amps, about a third of the _Cold Cranking Amps_ of a stock FJ battery. The big gauge wires should handle it, though you never load a car battery like that for long. The wires may be perfectly fine, but he'll have dead batteries very soon afterwards. Like how you don't keep trying to start the engine over and over, you kill both starter and battery.
He needs to get a pair of Optima batteries for it. 140 reserve minutes and 830 CCA (1025 CA), D27F at Autozone, specifically for an FJ Cruiser. The Optimas are also deep-cycle batteries, so that works to his benefit with a 3 year replacement warranty for each. They are full-on trucking batteries, but off road is a similar engine/ancillaries load situation, right?
Edit: yeah and as _devils garage_ said above, a DC-DC charge controller. That is an absolute must for a dual battery overland/off road/camping setup. Someone else here I replied to mentioned a PV panel for it. That would need a variable boost converter and a DC-DC charge controller too. Better he gets both done in one fell swoop rather than waiting to fry his batteries after one night out.
love that you're finally working in other projects
Chris - Nice install. One small addition I would make is a moderately sized fuse before the long run of that heavy gauge wire. I'd even look into those nice AV / Stereo fuse holders that audio guys use for their amps. Its super easy to install a fuse close to the battery pack, and it minimizes the risk of that heavy lead shorting out and causing either a fire, or breaking electronics in the FJ!
I'd put a fuse on both ends between the batteries because if the cable breaks near the middle, and the wire shorts, it'll throw the fuse on one side, and simply stay hot and short circuit the battery on the other. If it happens. Better safe than sorry.
Just paint the door jambs matte black with a spray can. Cheap and quick.
It will just flake of and look like ass. I don't mind the blue door jams. There is not real over spray on them and they are consistent.
just rub it down with 800 paper, wont chip off
Plastidip them
plastidip wouldn't work. If you brush up against it especially in the corners, it will split and peel off.
I have bed liner coated the door jams on my Tacoma.
You could also use a second large solenoid activated by key power to connect the second battery to the main battery when key power is on.
Please put a breaker inline between the main battery and the second battery!
Actually run two, each close to a battery. In an accident, should the positive line be cut between the batteries each battery’s breaker will prevent a fire. That’s how I wired my 2013 fj
Hope you have a great day Chris!
(Commenting this before end of video) your gonna wanna make sure you cut off the bottoms of those bolts going through the wheel well so you don’t puncture a tire when your offroading
Also check the self tappers that went through the bulkhead. The pointy ends can do a lot of mischief.
Curious why you would choose to use a manual disconnect on the battery instead of using an automated battery isolator. Cost? I feel like going under the hood to connect and disconnect the battery is going to get old really fast.
Second battery needs to be a deep cycle marine type, yellow top Optima perhaps.
wickedsled001 blue top optima is marine deep cycle. Yellow is part deep cycle
@@Matt-lp5ve Optima batteries are no longer trustworthy made in mexico
Man, it's a good thing you hooked that extra battery up to your LED light bar instead of that winch! That bar has to pull way more power.
I intended to click this video like 14 videos back but it was extremely off topic for my recent watched videos. However each new video i watched your thumbnail remained in my sidebar of video recommendations. Great series. subbed for lotus build but this is great.
I LOVE the way this project is turning out.
Everyday I open my RUclips app to see if there is another video by B is for Build. Honestly addicted!
Hey buddy, you definitely want to go the Big Three. Not only for the new battery, but the electrical output in general. It'll help tremendously.
Another option to welding would be rivets or using nuts and bolts. A little more involved in the planning process but still solid enough to hold a battery. Also, your a super smart guy and thanks for the uploads.
I ain't much on the bar light operation. I know it's a budget build, but they sell factory interior color light switch panels that mount on the driver's side A-pillar that will allow you to operate each bar separately. A little wire, a couple relays, in-line fuses, bada-bing, bada-boom, individually controlled light bars. I don't think you'll like that "both on, both off" mode of operation.
chris really loves his RED everything wiring.
I originally thought you'd use the solenoid for connecting the batteries together, and then some toggle switches inside the cabin of the vehicle to turn the lights on or off.
Most cheap relays, even the ones from AutoZone are rated for 30 amps.
To follow up, RoughCountry's highest wattage lightbar is 312w. At 12 volts, that would be 26A, which a cheap 30 amp relay would be more than capable of!
My bad, I thought you were referring to the relay for the lights. Yeah, a relay for the batteries would be pretty beefy, but they use solenoids for that sorta thing, and most often kits for dual battery setups come with 80-150A solenoids.
(edit: To follow up, amazon has 12v 150A continuous duty solenoids for less than $20)
Not that it matters but that battery tray does come from a late 80's Jeep wrangler. the tabs that you cut off are where the diagnostic connectors clip into. Great build, cant wait to see it done!
Brother this is extremely smart and did not think of this but now I will add this to my jeep grand Cherokee
Mesh over the headlights world look awesome I think Chris
Great work, personally I would have the lights on a switch in the car so you can turn on the front bar when driving seperatley from the rear and a dual battery manager would mean you dont have to worry about forgetting to disconnect it. But its looking good great job.
I love the FJ build. I always love the FJ and your video gave me the final put I needed to get one of my own(2007 TRD edition) and can't wait to start building on it.
im here early tonight!! loving the fj look Chris! keep up the awesome work!
You're about to get alot of comments about the way you did the battery, so here's mine:
-Discharging a regular car battery one time below 10.5v will permanently damage it. A deep cycle battery (optima) will go lower and get damaged less. But any battery needs low voltage protection to last.
-I'd really like to see a fuse between your 600+ amp second battery and your sketchy +12v relay which is mounted to your chassis. I have a feeling it's probably not isolated and the metal top is 12v hot. In any case, wrenches get dropped.
Cont.....
-there are also much better battery chemistries than lead, potential 18650 project? (Think of the views!) Oh also, solar panels are cool and easy to put on the roof for extended camping without running the engine. Also would be a backup to gather some electrons if you do forget to disconnect.
-how will you really know when your battery disconnect post is disconnected? I know they're pretty reliable but in an adventure situation...
Hey Chris you should get a deep cycle battery. A lead acid will not last long with repeated full drain and charge.
Don’t give up guys keep grinding love your content
Definitely look into an electronic dual battery isolator makes things even simpler, you don't have to remember to disconnect or reconnect the auxiliary battery.😁
So what was the point of that massive relay compared to separate relay and switch setups?
Just run a Marine Battery Isolator switch allows for adding a spare battery to run accessories in your car, boat or RV. This fully automatic switch allows for your engine alternator or aux battery charger to charge 2 batteries, while keeping the batteries electrically isolated from each other. This means that you can run your spare battery down, without worry of running down your starting battery.
with lots of experience winching and off roading I really suggest using a dual battery kit, it automatically charges your aux battery with the use of a solenoid, really easy to install, also I would highly suggest winching off of your aux battery, check out the national luna dual battery kit or the max dual battery kit.
Great install of the secondary battery Chris though i'd use a leisure battery over the normal car one for the secondary. Leisure batteries are designed to be charged and discharged. A normal battery will get toasted in no time.
You could use another solenoid to connect those batteries. Put switching power from the alternator to it, so it only connects the batteries when the engine is running, thus preventing the engine battery from draining.
Do a cheap snorkel set up
Chris you can buy a voltage sensitive relay for about $50 that will automatically disconnect the spare battery from the main when your engine is off, and connect it for charging when your engine is on. Saves you the hastle of having to remember to do it manually
Seems to be alot of haters on here today. Keep on doing your thing Chris
Thank you soo much for cleaning under the hood. Was stressing me out.
Dual battery setup is pretty awesome, may have to use it as a guide for my Xterra.
I'd suggest the following charging system: if the key is on "on", connect the secondary battery, if not, disconnect the secondary battery. It should be as simple as having a relay trigger depending on the key position.
Chris, always use black wire for negative connections. If someone else works on this vehicle/you sell it and they see red they will think positive connection and potentially short something out. ARB and other companies have been building these solutions for years. example: www.arb.com.au/products/battery-power-12v-solar-solutions/redarc-management-systems/
You should put a deep cycle battery in for your secondary battery so that way you can discharge and recharge it without damaging the battery.
Really enjoying this build, the lotus was still my fav tho lol
You’re great man! Been following you since day one!
You should get a deep cell battery when that one goes. Regular lead acid batteries don’t take being drained all the way very well.
install a high current solenoid between the batteries to isolate. Warn makes a good one. install a switch to control.
Alternators are not chargers they are maintainers
Love how he is always saying "This is a great product, you need to buy this one....time to modify it!"
Never thought about this. Great stuff
You need a deep discharge protection circuit on that second battery, like all camper vans have. Otherwise after only one long laptop usage night the second battery will be a paperweight.
"bonjour !" nice to hear you saying hello in french, my language ! nice episode, like always (:
I got something a little bit like this, although it's a 2007 suburban with a 6.6L Duramax conversion with line-x, Custom bumper with winch and 2 flood ARB lights and 2 Spot Lights. With a CVT Tent (5 person cap) and a Smitybuilt Roof Rack. She's my pride and joy! Just like your tj.
We don’t talk about tj here
Roman *fj
I would edit it but, you can never trust an edited comment.
dude cmon paint the rest of the hood underneath, it just looks kinda half assed IMO
Look into a battery isolator, allows both batteries to be charged by the car, but wont let the two batteries discharge each other.
I've done something similar, but I had a relay separating the two batteries. But the secondary battery was a redundant start battery, so I had a button in the cab I could push that engaged the second battery if the first went dead.
The high gauge wire between batteries must be fused at both ends! Also another large relay or split charge relay would automate the connecting / disconnection of the second battery from the car
Nice to hear you thought of us French viewers! Bonjour Chris! :D
Awesome simplicity and explanations! Keep it up!
Nice ground on the second battery...haha
Today: Chris plays car electrician pro!
When will the Camaro get some love ?
That's the best thumbnail I have ever seen
hey chris, you might want to go with a deep cycle battery if youre really gonna use that accesory battery, 12v batteries they are not meant for draining completey then recharging the battery will go bad in about 10 cycles of draining then recharging, deep cycles are they are used in many recreational vehcles for lights such as boats and rvs, and can be drained completely then recharged over and over again. love your vids man!
After you forget to disconnect the battery having a fun camping time, get a dual battery auto under voltage disconnect.
you should use a victron cyrix for charging two batteries, works like a dream!
add a beefier alternator, hard on stock to draw down and bring up a lot
Awesome gave me some ideas for my truck
You need a bigger alternator my dude. US Alternators has good ones and surprisingly RockAuto sells brand new ones without asking for a core charge. They are priced reasonably as well.
I think you could use a battery isolator. That way you wouldn't have to disconnect the battery.
ever thought of buying one of the small harbor freight solar kits or the RV style solar kits? i feel like that would be clutch for charging that second battery and really not having to worry about it draining dead.
I'd highly recommend you do it properly and install a suitably rated voltage sensing split charge relay!
very easy to understand battery explanation and run through
Auxiliary should be a deep cycle AGM or a lithium to run accessories
Connect to the starter battery via a DC-DC charger this will make sure your aux battery doesn't over charge and your starter battery won't go flat. Starter batteries aren't designed for constant load.
A duel battery isolator would negate the use of a disconnect. The one I have in my truck will only drain the auxiliary battery regardless of if it’s connected to the main battery
A little long winded for me but very very helpful
don't forget to put fire extinguisher on your FJ
Try interstate battery they're high amperage good for your accessories or go gel with an optima cant beat em
Nice work!
Patiently waiting for the mustang build
Your cut off to the second battery is ok till you forget to disconnect it. Why not just get a split charger relay which seperate it from the starter battery and only connect to charge when engine running. Just a thought. It is how campers and caravans do it.
so when you drive down the road and you want your light bar on to see ahead, you will blind the person behind you, if you forget to take out the fuse. Sounds safe.
Instead of the manual disconnect, maybe you should just connect it to the other battery with a big relay that activates with the car running and deactivates when it is off. That will automatically isolate it when the car is off instead of having to remember to pop the hood and turn the knob.
Should have used an 12v 100amp isolator between batteries instead of a disconnect, that way you don’t have to constantly open and close the hood to connect and disconnect the second battery
Im taking german 2 this year so Guten Tag! aswell
Look up red arc isolater for the battery it does the some job but a whole lot safer then you have it now
Not dissing on the remote control, but having a dual channel remote, one for the front bar and one for the rear would have been just a little bit cooler
Just my two cents, but maybe consider a deep cycle 12v battery after the automotive battery shits out. They're designed to be drained and recharged where a regular automotive battery is not.
You should hook the front light bar to your cars main beams and the back light bar to that silly remote
Or you can use a high Wattage diode to allow the secondary battery to receive charge from the alternator but not drain power the opposite direction from the battery
I think a deep cycle battery is in your future. :) long time suber & liker.
Just buy a relay and control it with an arduino or something so you can disconnect and reconnect the 2nd battery via a switch in the cabin.
Very cool setup and clean wiring! Nice work man! My only word of advice would be to invest a couple hundred bucks in an Optima Yellowtop deep cycle battery. A deep cycle battery can handle being drained down and recharged, where as a standard car battery designed for starting will go bad after a few cycles of dropping to low voltage. Peace!
have you thought about putting a solar panel on your roof to keep your aux battery charged?
Instead of the manual disconnect I would look into just using diodes, it would do the same job but automatically.
Voltage sensitive relay would've been much easier... Also, what if you'd like to use the front light to light up the road on or off road without blinding the people behind you?
Needs a kick ass sound system now...maybe?
You didn't add any kind of undervolting protection? Running the battery with too low a voltage will decrease the life of the battery, and might harm the LED's.
Man, you just triggered soooo many people with that paint job on the hood. I am so satisfied!
:) troll paint ftw
Perfect cleaning, all we wanted xD