I have been brewing all grain for about 18 months now, I like to watch videos like this as I think you can always pick up little tips to improve your own process. This is one of the best demonstrations I’ve seen, well presented and concise. I can’t wait to try some of you kits. Thanks
Great choice on the hops, I LOVE Hallertau and Tettnang for light lagers. I was wondering, as you fill the bottles and the amount of liquid in the fermenter goes down, don't you get a drop in pressure in there that might make dissolved CO2 come out of solution and drag yeast up to the surface ? So maybe pushing CO2 at 15PSI into the fermenter when filling bottles would prevent that (if it is an issue).
I use a Sous Vide for my sparge water. I use the grainfather and a counterflow chiller. Has worked for me so far. Thanks for the idea of the ice bath. I brew in thailand which for chilling the wort is a little challenging. I use a commercial pop cooler hooked up the an inkbird temperature controller. I noticed you did not do a hard stir to get oxygen in the wort. Any reason why? Still trying to get my head around the rice husk (Very very available in Thailand) and what exactly it does. Laugh i use a spider. I would have problem getting my wort out if i did not. The malt flours is enough of a problem without adding the hops directly to the mix. This was a great video. to those out there that are not experienced it gave so much information. It even added tricks for old farts like me. Give the man a Thumbs up and like the video.
Thanks for your feedback, we don’t see the need to oxegenate the wort at this batch size. Rice Hulls aid the filter ability of the mash bed. It’s all about getting a balance between extract and run off when it comes to crushing malt and sometimes depending on the grist it’s beneficial to use rice hulls to help with the run off. Thanks again
It’s good to see that you just transferred the wort and any hop debris into the FV, in all my AG brews I was concerned about the material in suspension and at the bottom of the FV even before the yeast have got to work.
I tend to run the boiler off into another vessel, cool the beer, then transfer to FV. This leaves a lot of trub and debris in the boiler and cooling vessel.
Quick question gentlemen: You mentioned that you would add a little bit of top pressure to add more carbonation. How much did you add/What reading of PSI did it result in? Also what's a good estimate for how long it takes to carbonate once it gets below the 4 degrees? Thanks fellas! I enjoy your content, very helpful!
It depends what level of carbonation you want, though generically i'd say 1.5 bar/ 22 psi works well. We fermented this under pressure so it was fairly well carbonated so when temp dropped it could just need a minor adjustment and then ready to proceed to packaging
Hi there! Great video. All steps very well explained. I do have one question; when cold crashing under pressure, would you add any additional co2 to the fermzilla? Im assuming cold should bring the pressure down inside vessel (low temp and co2 absortion by the beer). Is it possible to end up having negative pressure? How do you guys manage this? Thanks!
Great video, thanks! A couple of questions: - How do you know when fermentation has stopped? - Where is the pressure coming from to push the beer into the bottles? Just the 1-2 bar accumulated in the vessel? - If I have to buy a CO2 canister to make the process easier, is there a suggested supplier in Northern Ireland? Thanks again!
Hi, you can monitor fermentation with gravity readings as normal so you know when fermentation is complete. Closed transfer requires you to balance pressure with vessel you are transferring to with the FV. For refills in NI we recommend Eamonn at Gas Tech & Gear he’s a great guy
Is there a guide to know what pressure a beer should be before it goes into the bottle or keg ? I understand the principle but just not sure about how much pressure should read on the valve. I would love to take my brews to the next step. Am I over complicating this ?
In Our brewery we package kegs at 0.8 bar into kegs and for packaging cans we aim for 1.5 bar although it can change for different beer styles that respond better to a higher carbonation level
Nice to see lager brewing time can be speeded up fermenting in this way. Can the cold lagering period also be shortened and still give a decent result?
Nice. Does it mean that the CO2 bottle is not needed for transferring the beer, only for purging? Ie. there's enough pressure in the fermenter to transfer the whole batch and the setup can be used without a CO2 bottle altogether?
Using brewers friend yeast calculator, this appears to be a massive underpitch of yeast, even for brewed under pressure. How much yeast to use when pressure fermenting, nedds to be clarified, as well as yeast strain used (can it handle pressure). So some big holes here imho
Thanks for your query, Its the diamond lager strain from lallemand we did go through the recipe during the video and we used one homebrew packet (11g) which is plenty for a batch of this size. This was a new experiment for us so its not going to be perfect first time we would rather be genuine in our videos
Don't you add some oxygen and do shaking at the beginning of the fermentation. Lager yeast doesn't need it? And do you recommend using saflager w34/70 under this temp/pressure?
Do ales and stouts work well by the fast method (has anyone tried them?) I know an ale yeast eats through the sugars a lot quicker but the carbonated ready beer has picked my ears up! I'm waiting on the 27L starter kit from GEB, it should arrive tomorrow or Friday. I'll definitely be ordering the pressure kit and sounding valve on my next grain order.
@@Geterbrewed Thank you, the gear I ordered on Thursday arrived this morning, I'll be able to do a stout today and brew it under pressure. Great service!
How do you set upur spundimg valves when sealing up the fermenter? Attach to a pressurised keg or do you keep the spunding valve shut for the first 24hrs and then set the sphnding valve in real time?
Great video, pretty new to brew and still on kits. Just wonder with fermenting under pressure how would you go about dry hopping or can it not be done with this method
The Fermzilla starter kit range have a yeast harvesting container that screws on the bottom, it has threaded caps on the sides that you can add carbonation caps to which would allow you to purge with co2 and in effect do a dry hop without any risk of o2 ingress
I will be getting a fermzilla + ferminator combo. It's the next logical step now that i got a grainfather. I want to get out of the putting sugar in bottles for carbonation and having icky stuff in the bottom of the bottles and this seems like the logical way to solve those things.
can I ask advise im currently pressure fermenting and coming to the end but I have no means of cold crashing this so would you use beer finnings or just leave
Thanks a lot for sharing! May I ask what hose connectors (the whole thing) do you use on your chiller? Looks great! I have a rather primitive set up and would like to improve it.
Great video, really interested in giving fermenting under pressure a go. When using the beer gun does it need to be connected to the gas cylinder in order to get the liquid out of the fermented? Or is the gas just to purge oxygen from the bottle?
The beer is being pushed in by the pressure in the fermenter, seeing as they fermented under pressure. They have CO2 (not oxygen) connected to the bottom of the gun so they can flush the air out of the bottle before filling. It's not absolutely necessary, but it's ideal. As the air will oxidise the beer reducing its quality.
We just wanted to highlight the speed at which we could ferment a lager under pressure and that it was ready to package in record times, if you can't fill under pressure it would present issue when you come to bottling which would cause more harm than good imo
Great question, yeah some sort of filter is going to be a great idea. The Bremonk All-In-One does have a bazooka filter which reduces a lot of it, but can at times get a bit clogged meaning you have to resort to the tap option, in that case adding a level of filtering wouldn't be a bad idea. We normally recommend using use our hop teabags which reduce a lot of hop trub and make life a lot easier. What system are you brewing on yourself?
@@Geterbrewed didn't know about the bazooka filter. Thanks! We are brewing on a 70l pot / mash tun, heated by a 3.5kW induction hendi, controlled by a BierBot Brick brewing control. So our hop filter is just doing a whirlpool at the end of the boil, which yields a very clean cone in the middle.
A couple of questions … (1) using the CO2 produced in fermentation only to get to 15psi, do you need an airlock or blow off tube? (2) does the beer get force carbonated without adding any external CO2? (3) if so, I assume you don’t have any real control over the level of carbonation you get? (4) would you cold crash before bottling?
Hey, The fermentation under pressure produces the co2 with out the need to add any and its vented using the 2 bar pressure release valve attached via the ball lock connector so no need for an airlock , yes we cold crash before packaging to ensure good clarity . Hope that helps
Did you end up transferring the beer using the pump? I always find the filter gets blocked no matter if I use a hop spider or not and end up having to use a spoon to scrape up and down on the filter to get the beer out. It’s probably my only issue with an overall great all in one system
Yeah used the pump with silicon tubing attached which fixed the issue in seconds, normally I use hop tea bags and don't have that issue, but always the way that you have to improvise and adapt in some way during a brewday especially when you haven't brewed on that kit
@@ScullyBrewing I think I might give it a go. I normally give it a stir with a spoon, but it's never a proper whirlpool. Think I'll try it without the filter as well and see what happens for the next brew. Cheers
@@Geterbrewed Yeah I wasn't sure you were meant to use the pump other than in the mash, but good to know if I really get stuck I have another option. Cheers
Nice contribution, but also here no comments about the hight of overpressure for different beer styles. Not one word about different beer styles to pressurise at, only mentioned 15psi. Just another product advertise. Smörrebröd, lol.
This is the temperature of the mashing water before you add the grains. Usually, it's a little hotter than the 66 degrees C most people mash at, because the grains are cooler than the water, so adding the grains effectively cools the water they're mashed in. For a 5 gallon normal brew, I find 80 degrees C is a good strike temperature, which goes down to around 66 degrees once the grain is added. That's just a guide. This just saves having the re-adjust the temperature after adding grains.
As a young man, i used to go into my local and drink tennents lager. Later in life I moved to London and realised I could take my time, I could try other lagers and beers and if I didn’t like them, I’d try something else next time. After stumbling across your channel I’ve realised their is a next level. Of course my wife will point to my camera gear and the saltwater fish in the corner, maybe she will mention the smart bulbs and switches, the led strips and the automated kettle. My wife will also recommend I complete the half painted utility room and repair L shaped sofa that’s now two small i shaped sofas because the kids jumped and kicked the L out of it. It won’t stop me as I believe I have found my next hobby. I will sell my guitar and amp, I will auction my band saw and I will meet some con artist in a petrol station who will knock £5 off the price of our family tent. I will then buy almost every item in this video because I must now make my own lager. I need to have my friends over and we must sit under my new pergola and drink my very own lager. I will film it all with my drone. This is how every man thinks right?
I hear ya , homebrewing is definitely one of those hobbies that can become an obsession but we do actively try to make it accessible for all , you don't need all the kit but you do need ability to keep everything sterile and maintain constant temperatures. Easy solution for me was to make some white and rose wine, now Deborah makes better wine than i ever did lol
@@Geterbrewed I hope my comment didn’t sound disrespectful lol. I just meant I tend to go all in as soon as I see something that gets my attention the way this has! This video reminded me of my dad making homebrew in the airing cupboard, he never waited till it was ready lol.
Dont try to brew lagers guys. Brew ales, 19 degrees, 10 days under 1.3 or less bar and you are in paradise :)) and dont forget hops about 5 minutes before boiling ends. Smell will be heaven - honey hemp sex
And before you leak beer into kegs or mouth, cool ferminators to +1 or so for day or two :) yeast will lowdown. And dont even fart when you flowing beer to keg so yeasts would stay down. And thats it. No more secrets :))
This dude is a rookie :)) even i know how much water will vaporate in this system. And fermintation under pressure wont make lagers brew faster, even ales brewing 10days till ready to drink. And you cant put beer brewed under pressure in bottles, even if its 1.3 bar you hardly will fill half of bottle course of a huge foam, so youll need cornelius kegs, and highly likely co2 system to press 18liters of beer to 18liter keg. But system is worth buying, and its a great beer youll have, highly likely :)) at least ales. For sure. Best
Where did you hide the magic wand that turned the home brew style, moonshiners beer that you made into lager? Whoever invented the recipe has no idea how to produce lager. When you soaked the malt at 67 you managed to denature the low temperature activated enzymes that produce ale and lager, Beta in particular. Beta is responsible for conversion, which is unnecessary in moonshining and the enzyme is purposely denatured. Someone taught you the same brewing method moonshiners used during Prohibition for producing moonshiners beer that was distilled and you recommend for others to use the same brewing method. To produce pseudo, ale and lager the step mash method is used. Since it only takes one step to produce moonshiners beer you skipped three key steps that are used for producing ale and lager. You skipped conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization. It is chemically and enzymatically impossible to produce ale and lager with single temperature infusion due to the way enzymes function and chemical precipitation, which makes strike, target temperature and brewing gadgets that are designed for the brewing method useless for producing the beer. When you produce the moonshiners beer that you make you throw away with the spent mash the richest starch in malt called amylopectin. In moonshining amylopectin is sold and maltodextrin is made from the starch. When hot extract is recirculated through a grain bed for long periods of time over sparge occurs, which extracts tannin. Tannin extraction is a time, temperature, pH thing and that is why vorlauf is kept within 10 minutes using a small volume of extract. For a 20 liter batch of beer 60 liters of extract flowed through the grain bed in one hour, add to that the sparge water. The best thing to use the all in one brewing gadget is for making home brew moonshine. Bolt on a reflux column, dump in the extract that you make with the moonshiners method and you are good to go. In 1960, the triple decoction brewing method was replaced with the Hochkurz brewing method worldwide in breweries that produced ale and lager. It is amazing that over 60 years later home brewers are still using the same ingredients and brewing method that moonshiners used 100 years ago during Prohibition for producing moonshiners beer. You can thank CAMRA for that and the marketers that popped out of the woodwork afterward. Do you hold contests and hand out medals and ribbons?
Hi, the malt we used in this recipe is a highly modified malt that can easily cope with a single infusion mash , hope you get the opportunity to try it
have been using small ultrasonic cleaners for making Aging alcohol Cannabis edibles, Tinctures and Coloidal Silver.I had the Idea to try it on my Fermentation of grain mash. My hopes were to make the mash into smaller particles and increasing surface area. I hoped to increase Bioavailability for the yeast. The 6 gal. plastic bucket I used for it kept blowing its top off as the bubbler was unable to keep up with the new rate of fermentation. I had to resort to taping the lid down with duct tape, Watching the bucket bulge from unreleased pressure and hoping it did not explode. !!WARNING DO NOT USE A GLASS VESSEL FOR FERMENTING IF YOU SHOULD TRY THIS METHOD!! I had hoped to show the increased speed of fermentation in this video. I made two mistakes. I used some pretty old yeast and I did not malt the grain first. Still the control had not even started before the ultrasounde grain had filled its bag full. I believe if I had used a malted grain and newer Yeast the results would have been more dramatic for you to see. I am very new to brewing, only three batches with using ultrasound to decrease particle size the third batch. I did try a sugar wash 4th batch using the ultrasound but saw no changes in the speed of fermentation. . I am hoping someone with a better set up and greater brewing knowledge can experiment with this and show the actual rate of increase. (I believe it to be about 300% or better) This could have a major significance in such a large market as alcohol and fuel.A factor to consider is stirring the grai water mixture in the ultrasound as a heavy layer of grain at the bottom may reduce effectiveness. I used a 60 watt, 40khz ultrasound unit with just one transducer on this video . On the earlier bucket run I used a home made unit with two 40 khz transducers. Finding the optimal range of transducers, frequency , volume, stir rate and length of time I leave to future brewers with more capital and time to find ruclips.net/video/xlaGz_3mKhU/видео.html ruclips.net/video/b_mdvsEF3vo/видео.html
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I have been brewing all grain for about 18 months now, I like to watch videos like this as I think you can always pick up little tips to improve your own process.
This is one of the best demonstrations I’ve seen, well presented and concise.
I can’t wait to try some of you kits. Thanks
Really appreciate the comment , thankyou
Great video, very clear, very thorough, loved including what went wrong, far better than showing a perfect brew, its how we learn
Its rare you get a perfect brew but you can learn how to find your way around your system to hit consistent targets when brewing frequently
Great choice on the hops, I LOVE Hallertau and Tettnang for light lagers. I was wondering, as you fill the bottles and the amount of liquid in the fermenter goes down, don't you get a drop in pressure in there that might make dissolved CO2 come out of solution and drag yeast up to the surface ? So maybe pushing CO2 at 15PSI into the fermenter when filling bottles would prevent that (if it is an issue).
Awesome video. My next step is to ferment under pressure. Also loving that Ferminator. Going to have to tell my wife I’ve won another competition 🤫
Thats a great excuse lol
I use a Sous Vide for my sparge water. I use the grainfather and a counterflow chiller. Has worked for me so far. Thanks for the idea of the ice bath. I brew in thailand which for chilling the wort is a little challenging. I use a commercial pop cooler hooked up the an inkbird temperature controller. I noticed you did not do a hard stir to get oxygen in the wort. Any reason why? Still trying to get my head around the rice husk (Very very available in Thailand) and what exactly it does. Laugh i use a spider. I would have problem getting my wort out if i did not. The malt flours is enough of a problem without adding the hops directly to the mix. This was a great video. to those out there that are not experienced it gave so much information. It even added tricks for old farts like me. Give the man a Thumbs up and like the video.
Thanks for your feedback, we don’t see the need to oxegenate the wort at this batch size. Rice Hulls aid the filter ability of the mash bed. It’s all about getting a balance between extract and run off when it comes to crushing malt and sometimes depending on the grist it’s beneficial to use rice hulls to help with the run off. Thanks again
@@Geterbrewed so you mean get get a more efficent sparge?
Not long started home brewing. You vids have been a wealth of information. Just ordered an experimental kit...looking forward to it.
Thanks so much, you'll enjoy that great way to get started and learn
It’s good to see that you just transferred the wort and any hop debris into the FV, in all my AG brews I was concerned about the material in suspension and at the bottom of the FV even before the yeast have got to work.
A little transfer of proteins and hop debris will cause no serious concerns in my opinion as we do this regularly
I tend to run the boiler off into another vessel, cool the beer, then transfer to FV. This leaves a lot of trub and debris in the boiler and cooling vessel.
Great video yet again 👍🏻
Appreciated thanks John
This is a great video....I've learnt a few things from this and will look forward to my next brew day. Superb...Cheers
Quick question gentlemen: You mentioned that you would add a little bit of top pressure to add more carbonation. How much did you add/What reading of PSI did it result in? Also what's a good estimate for how long it takes to carbonate once it gets below the 4 degrees? Thanks fellas! I enjoy your content, very helpful!
It depends what level of carbonation you want, though generically i'd say 1.5 bar/ 22 psi works well. We fermented this under pressure so it was fairly well carbonated so when temp dropped it could just need a minor adjustment and then ready to proceed to packaging
Hi there! Great video. All steps very well explained. I do have one question; when cold crashing under pressure, would you add any additional co2 to the fermzilla? Im assuming cold should bring the pressure down inside vessel (low temp and co2 absortion by the beer). Is it possible to end up having negative pressure? How do you guys manage this? Thanks!
THAT was an awesome video; very descriptive and easy to follow along. Thank you!
Nice one thankyou
Great video, thanks! A couple of questions:
- How do you know when fermentation has stopped?
- Where is the pressure coming from to push the beer into the bottles? Just the 1-2 bar accumulated in the vessel?
- If I have to buy a CO2 canister to make the process easier, is there a suggested supplier in Northern Ireland?
Thanks again!
Hi, you can monitor fermentation with gravity readings as normal so you know when fermentation is complete. Closed transfer requires you to balance pressure with vessel you are transferring to with the FV. For refills in NI we recommend Eamonn at Gas Tech & Gear he’s a great guy
Is there a guide to know what pressure a beer should be before it goes into the bottle or keg ? I understand the principle but just not sure about how much pressure should read on the valve. I would love to take my brews to the next step. Am I over complicating this ?
In Our brewery we package kegs at 0.8 bar into kegs and for packaging cans we aim for 1.5 bar although it can change for different beer styles that respond better to a higher carbonation level
Hi great video, can you get the hop tea bags as part of the build your own recipe kit. Cheers
We only use the hop tea bags in our recipe kits but with the latest upgrade to the custom kit we have been looking at adding this feature
Well done mate, I loved it. Cheers from Aussie 🦘🦘.
Nice to see lager brewing time can be speeded up fermenting in this way. Can the cold lagering period also be shortened and still give a decent result?
Yeah totally if fermented under pressure
Better off with the diaphragm type spunding valve, those metal ones are a bit iffy.
Dear sir , Could you give me the recipe and ingredients for this beer? (the piece of paper you wrote at the beginning of the video)
Nice. Does it mean that the CO2 bottle is not needed for transferring the beer, only for purging? Ie. there's enough pressure in the fermenter to transfer the whole batch and the setup can be used without a CO2 bottle altogether?
Using brewers friend yeast calculator, this appears to be a massive underpitch of yeast, even for brewed under pressure. How much yeast to use when pressure fermenting, nedds to be clarified, as well as yeast strain used (can it handle pressure). So some big holes here imho
Thanks for your query, Its the diamond lager strain from lallemand we did go through the recipe during the video and we used one homebrew packet (11g) which is plenty for a batch of this size. This was a new experiment for us so its not going to be perfect first time we would rather be genuine in our videos
Don't you add some oxygen and do shaking at the beginning of the fermentation. Lager yeast doesn't need it? And do you recommend using saflager w34/70 under this temp/pressure?
Great demonstration, detailed but easy to follow, well done !
Perfect.! Very simple and clear! Thanks.!
Do ales and stouts work well by the fast method (has anyone tried them?) I know an ale yeast eats through the sugars a lot quicker but the carbonated ready beer has picked my ears up!
I'm waiting on the 27L starter kit from GEB, it should arrive tomorrow or Friday. I'll definitely be ordering the pressure kit and sounding valve on my next grain order.
Yeah fermenting under pressure can work for any beer style
@@Geterbrewed Thank you, the gear I ordered on Thursday arrived this morning, I'll be able to do a stout today and brew it under pressure. Great service!
How do you set upur spundimg valves when sealing up the fermenter? Attach to a pressurised keg or do you keep the spunding valve shut for the first 24hrs and then set the sphnding valve in real time?
Love it well done GEB
Thank you kindly
Do you have the quantities used for the rest of the ingredients? also how many litres did you start in the all in one?
Is there a guide anywhere to show how many volumes of co2 is in the beer with pressure ferment?
We just use general rule of thumbs so 1.5 bar usually works great for me
Great video, pretty new to brew and still on kits. Just wonder with fermenting under pressure how would you go about dry hopping or can it not be done with this method
The Fermzilla starter kit range have a yeast harvesting container that screws on the bottom, it has threaded caps on the sides that you can add carbonation caps to which would allow you to purge with co2 and in effect do a dry hop without any risk of o2 ingress
Good vid. You said you pressure fermented at 15psi. Did you use the normal lagering temp?
We also increased the temperature to 21 degrees
I will be getting a fermzilla + ferminator combo. It's the next logical step now that i got a grainfather. I want to get out of the putting sugar in bottles for carbonation and having icky stuff in the bottom of the bottles and this seems like the logical way to solve those things.
Happy days, the ferminator is a game changer for temperature control and the fermzilla 30 litre all rounder is one of our best selling fermenters atm
can I ask advise im currently pressure fermenting and coming to the end but I have no means of cold crashing this so would you use beer finnings or just leave
Excellent video guys thanks! So is there no need to prime the bottles with sugar and condition them for a bit when doing pressure fermentation?
No its force carbonated so no need for priming sugar, so speeds everything up a few weeks
When u pitch the yeast, do u put the spunding valve on and close the blowtie until u see the psi at12 psi
We just monitored the pressure building and adjusted as it built up
so this bottler does this carbonate the bottle so no need for sugar
What system is that? Who makes that grey capsule?
Hey you can check the Ferminator Product our via our website : www.geterbrewed.com/ferminator-connect/ let me know if we can help further
Thanks a lot for sharing! May I ask what hose connectors (the whole thing) do you use on your chiller? Looks great! I have a rather primitive set up and would like to improve it.
Great video, really interested in giving fermenting under pressure a go. When using the beer gun does it need to be connected to the gas cylinder in order to get the liquid out of the fermented? Or is the gas just to purge oxygen from the bottle?
The beer is being pushed in by the pressure in the fermenter, seeing as they fermented under pressure.
They have CO2 (not oxygen) connected to the bottom of the gun so they can flush the air out of the bottle before filling.
It's not absolutely necessary, but it's ideal. As the air will oxidise the beer reducing its quality.
Garfish beat us to the reply but they are spot on
Thanks lads, I don't think I can sneak a co2 into the house. That might have to go on the long finger.
Can you ferment cider under pressure... or is there no benefits
Do you use a floating dip tube in the all rounder?
Yes we add the pressure kit which includes that
Is it still beneficial to ferment under pressure if I don't have a bottling gun?
We just wanted to highlight the speed at which we could ferment a lager under pressure and that it was ready to package in record times, if you can't fill under pressure it would present issue when you come to bottling which would cause more harm than good imo
hi how much for the full kit you are using please
Hey, checkout this starter kit and let us know if you need any further help: www.geterbrewed.com/jump-straight-into-all-grain-starter-kit/
Very informative video. Which brewing system was that you were using?
Hey thanks, its the Brewmonk 30
@@Geterbrewed Well that's going on my Christmas wish list. Hope Santa is good to me!!
No filtering out the hops before fermentation?
Great question, yeah some sort of filter is going to be a great idea. The Bremonk All-In-One does have a bazooka filter which reduces a lot of it, but can at times get a bit clogged meaning you have to resort to the tap option, in that case adding a level of filtering wouldn't be a bad idea. We normally recommend using use our hop teabags which reduce a lot of hop trub and make life a lot easier. What system are you brewing on yourself?
@@Geterbrewed didn't know about the bazooka filter. Thanks! We are brewing on a 70l pot / mash tun, heated by a 3.5kW induction hendi, controlled by a BierBot Brick brewing control. So our hop filter is just doing a whirlpool at the end of the boil, which yields a very clean cone in the middle.
A couple of questions … (1) using the CO2 produced in fermentation only to get to 15psi, do you need an airlock or blow off tube? (2) does the beer get force carbonated without adding any external CO2? (3) if so, I assume you don’t have any real control over the level of carbonation you get? (4) would you cold crash before bottling?
Hey, The fermentation under pressure produces the co2 with out the need to add any and its vented using the 2 bar pressure release valve attached via the ball lock connector so no need for an airlock , yes we cold crash before packaging to ensure good clarity . Hope that helps
you use a spunding valve
Did you end up transferring the beer using the pump? I always find the filter gets blocked no matter if I use a hop spider or not and end up having to use a spoon to scrape up and down on the filter to get the beer out. It’s probably my only issue with an overall great all in one system
You could try a whirlpool to get the hops to form a cone in the middle of your system, then they’re away from the walls where your tap outlet is.
Yeah used the pump with silicon tubing attached which fixed the issue in seconds, normally I use hop tea bags and don't have that issue, but always the way that you have to improvise and adapt in some way during a brewday especially when you haven't brewed on that kit
@@ScullyBrewing I think I might give it a go. I normally give it a stir with a spoon, but it's never a proper whirlpool. Think I'll try it without the filter as well and see what happens for the next brew. Cheers
@@Geterbrewed Yeah I wasn't sure you were meant to use the pump other than in the mash, but good to know if I really get stuck I have another option. Cheers
16:18 15 bar pressure for the fermenter???
No need to cold crash at all?
Cold crashing does greatly help with the best carbonation
What? He added yeast to a boiling water before cooling?))
How much did that speed it up?
At least a few weeks, we normally would have taken 6 weeks for a lager this was ready in 7 days
10 Days from grain to glass??? Sulfure???
No sulfur as the fermentation under pressure suppresses it from forming
Nice contribution, but also here no comments about the hight of overpressure for different beer styles. Not one word about different beer styles to pressurise at, only mentioned 15psi. Just another product advertise. Smörrebröd, lol.
You don't purge the oxygen out?
No need to, when fermenting under pressure the gas created is co2
@@Geterbrewed so true. Cheers
@16:20 I hope you mean 15psi not 15bar 😉
What is the "Strike temp" ?
This is the temperature of the mashing water before you add the grains. Usually, it's a little hotter than the 66 degrees C most people mash at, because the grains are cooler than the water, so adding the grains effectively cools the water they're mashed in. For a 5 gallon normal brew, I find 80 degrees C is a good strike temperature, which goes down to around 66 degrees once the grain is added. That's just a guide. This just saves having the re-adjust the temperature after adding grains.
@@TheBlackDog64 Many thanks dog black.
As a young man, i used to go into my local and drink tennents lager. Later in life I moved to London and realised I could take my time, I could try other lagers and beers and if I didn’t like them, I’d try something else next time.
After stumbling across your channel I’ve realised their is a next level. Of course my wife will point to my camera gear and the saltwater fish in the corner, maybe she will mention the smart bulbs and switches, the led strips and the automated kettle. My wife will also recommend I complete the half painted utility room and repair L shaped sofa that’s now two small i shaped sofas because the kids jumped and kicked the L out of it.
It won’t stop me as I believe I have found my next hobby. I will sell my guitar and amp, I will auction my band saw and I will meet some con artist in a petrol station who will knock £5 off the price of our family tent. I will then buy almost every item in this video because I must now make my own lager. I need to have my friends over and we must sit under my new pergola and drink my very own lager. I will film it all with my drone.
This is how every man thinks right?
I hear ya , homebrewing is definitely one of those hobbies that can become an obsession but we do actively try to make it accessible for all , you don't need all the kit but you do need ability to keep everything sterile and maintain constant temperatures. Easy solution for me was to make some white and rose wine, now Deborah makes better wine than i ever did lol
@@Geterbrewed I hope my comment didn’t sound disrespectful lol. I just meant I tend to go all in as soon as I see something that gets my attention the way this has!
This video reminded me of my dad making homebrew in the airing cupboard, he never waited till it was ready lol.
@@laughatfootball no issues at all so when are you making your next brew?
And, to make a REAL GOOD ALE, youll need 7kg of malt for 18-16 liters at the end. :)) Than youll know what good beer means ;)
next time omit the music
Could you have dragged this out any longer?
Convert
When you brew under pressure, you don’t need to control the temperature.
We have found it to be beneficial, how do you do it?
Dont try to brew lagers guys. Brew ales, 19 degrees, 10 days under 1.3 or less bar and you are in paradise :)) and dont forget hops about 5 minutes before boiling ends. Smell will be heaven - honey hemp sex
And before you leak beer into kegs or mouth, cool ferminators to +1 or so for day or two :) yeast will lowdown. And dont even fart when you flowing beer to keg so yeasts would stay down. And thats it. No more secrets :))
15psi (not 15bar)🤣
This dude is a rookie :)) even i know how much water will vaporate in this system. And fermintation under pressure wont make lagers brew faster, even ales brewing 10days till ready to drink. And you cant put beer brewed under pressure in bottles, even if its 1.3 bar you hardly will fill half of bottle course of a huge foam, so youll need cornelius kegs, and highly likely co2 system to press 18liters of beer to 18liter keg.
But system is worth buying, and its a great beer youll have, highly likely :)) at least ales. For sure. Best
terrible instructor waste of time.....
Where did you hide the magic wand that turned the home brew style, moonshiners beer that you made into lager? Whoever invented the recipe has no idea how to produce lager. When you soaked the malt at 67 you managed to denature the low temperature activated enzymes that produce ale and lager, Beta in particular. Beta is responsible for conversion, which is unnecessary in moonshining and the enzyme is purposely denatured. Someone taught you the same brewing method moonshiners used during Prohibition for producing moonshiners beer that was distilled and you recommend for others to use the same brewing method. To produce pseudo, ale and lager the step mash method is used.
Since it only takes one step to produce moonshiners beer you skipped three key steps that are used for producing ale and lager. You skipped conversion, dextrinization and gelatinization. It is chemically and enzymatically impossible to produce ale and lager with single temperature infusion due to the way enzymes function and chemical precipitation, which makes strike, target temperature and brewing gadgets that are designed for the brewing method useless for producing the beer. When you produce the moonshiners beer that you make you throw away with the spent mash the richest starch in malt called amylopectin. In moonshining amylopectin is sold and maltodextrin is made from the starch.
When hot extract is recirculated through a grain bed for long periods of time over sparge occurs, which extracts tannin. Tannin extraction is a time, temperature, pH thing and that is why vorlauf is kept within 10 minutes using a small volume of extract. For a 20 liter batch of beer 60 liters of extract flowed through the grain bed in one hour, add to that the sparge water. The best thing to use the all in one brewing gadget is for making home brew moonshine. Bolt on a reflux column, dump in the extract that you make with the moonshiners method and you are good to go.
In 1960, the triple decoction brewing method was replaced with the Hochkurz brewing method worldwide in breweries that produced ale and lager. It is amazing that over 60 years later home brewers are still using the same ingredients and brewing method that moonshiners used 100 years ago during Prohibition for producing moonshiners beer. You can thank CAMRA for that and the marketers that popped out of the woodwork afterward. Do you hold contests and hand out medals and ribbons?
Hi, the malt we used in this recipe is a highly modified malt that can easily cope with a single infusion mash , hope you get the opportunity to try it
How much Adderall would you say you took today?
have been using small ultrasonic cleaners for making Aging alcohol Cannabis edibles, Tinctures and Coloidal Silver.I had the Idea to try it on my Fermentation of grain mash. My hopes were to make the mash into smaller particles and increasing surface area. I hoped to increase Bioavailability for the yeast. The 6 gal. plastic bucket I used for it kept blowing its top off as the bubbler was unable to keep up with the new rate of fermentation. I had to resort to taping the lid down with duct tape, Watching the bucket bulge from unreleased pressure and hoping it did not explode. !!WARNING DO NOT USE A GLASS VESSEL FOR FERMENTING IF YOU SHOULD TRY THIS METHOD!! I had hoped to show the increased speed of fermentation in this video. I made two mistakes. I used some pretty old yeast and I did not malt the grain first.
Still the control had not even started before the ultrasounde grain had filled its bag full. I believe if I had used a malted grain and newer Yeast the results would have been more dramatic for you to see. I am very new to brewing, only three batches with using ultrasound to decrease particle size the third batch. I did try a sugar wash 4th batch using the ultrasound but saw no changes in the speed of fermentation. . I am hoping someone with a better set up and greater brewing knowledge can experiment with this and show the actual rate of increase. (I believe it to be about 300% or better)
This could have a major significance in such a large market as alcohol and fuel.A factor to consider is stirring the grai water mixture in the ultrasound as a heavy layer of grain at the bottom may reduce effectiveness. I used a 60 watt, 40khz ultrasound unit with just one transducer on this video . On the earlier bucket run I used a home made unit with two 40 khz transducers. Finding the optimal range of transducers, frequency , volume, stir rate and length of time I leave to future brewers with more capital and time to find
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