Residential journeyman here. That’s great man. Seems like you’re real comfortable around that high voltage equipment, but being complacent can also lead to injuries. Be safe out there!
As far as the tower supports go maybe you could talk to your local dish network or direct tv guy. They might be smaller but I bet they could either hook you up or have some old take-offs that would work for you.
@@okaro6595 ... the first few may be electrical appliances, but the cause of the fire is NOT electrical in origin. Cooking fire are usually grease related and space heaters can cause nearby items to burn. (drapes, couch, etc)
Wow learned alot, the thhn vs xhw wire, passthrough panel lugs, confirmed my love for SQ D panels, use a jbox not a LB, confirmed my recent purchase of milwuakee SDS drill, carbide hole saw for roof, holding hole saw with boots if pilot is not available, and more. All notes in my head now
A 200amp upgrade in Saint Paul MN was quoted at almost $7,000 last year when I got a quote. I wish prices were as affordable as Indiana. A new 200amp service for my garage with surge protector, and a main breaker on the meter was $4,250 and that’s the cheapest I could find… I went out to check the work, and asked if he needed to torque the lugs where it’s connected and he said that no one really does that. I’m not certain if I should have believed him after watching your level of work!
The one thing I don't like about making your own stand-off legs is the top gut will allow water to leak in and when it freezes the pipe will split. They need to be sealed to prevent that problem.
I like to land line side cables in meter cabinet before weatherhead is installed-cables are easier to strip and can slip up/down conduit for easier installation. (glad to see the Noalox🙂)
18:00 Why did you explain that the extra spaces in the trailer disconnect will negate having to go through the outer wall of the house for new circuits... and then go through the outer wall for the new hot tub anyway...?
I believe he was talking about the possibility of future expansion being easier. That basement run to the hot tub seemed rather short and the disconnect will probably be right on the wall so no conduit to run around the outside.
0:59 If you don't need a load center outside 230.85 (3) says as long as its service rated you can install a non fused disconnect as your emergency disconnect outside while the service disconnect remains in the load center inside.
Eaton makes a 200 amp meter/main 20/40 ckt with feed-thru lugs. All in one unit saves two pieces of eqipment. Cable guy kits are available. That's what I use.
Odd as it may seem, some local utilities do not allow the use of meter/main combos. And in Indiana and here in Idaho, only meters and disconnects are outside, breaker panels inside. No one wants to go reset breakers in sub-freezing temps and feet of snow.
That Jokere tool is a waste of money in my opinion.I tried it once and I tossed it away.Now I have the Klein large wire stripper.It stripps 250kcmil,4/0,3/0 & 2/0.It works like a charm.I highly recommend it.
Definitely not the ideal way to install the rain cap at the mast penetration. I would have tucked the top under the shingle tab and sealed the entire flange to the roof with roofing cement and shingle nails at the four corners. Just my preference. But then again, I would have inspected and repaired the rotten roof prior to calling you in for the upgrade. Like your work.👍👨🦳🇨🇦
You're right, but the average homeowner will probably put off one of the projects to avoid a massive bill for the whole deal all at once. From the looks of things, it will be ok for 10 years until they do the roof again.
@@richardc6932 .... if you watch closely, you will see he caulked all around and tucked the boot under the shingles. If he sealed the conduit at the meter, then that part is set.
Please share the reference for additional mast supports. I've never seen this in IN and it looked to me that the gold book said GRC/IMC would eliminate the need for extra bracing. Have you seen rigid mast installs and effects of insufficient bracing? Your videos are top shelf! The best around for this subject. Thanks!
Why strip the Jacket so far back leaving exposed conductors at the Terminations ? My not be an Issue inside the Panel box, but would look nicer. Mike M.
Now would be a good time to bond the telephone and cable protective grounds to the ground bus in the disconnect. Bingo, all the electronics are protected from surges from the overhead wiring drops. Connecting the communication wiring grounds is required in Chapter 8, Articles 800 to 830 in the NEC (NFPA 70). The cable television ground disappears below the concrete and the telephone ground goes through the brick wall. The interior panel should have its ground to neutral bus connection removed, the only place for this connection is the at the first means of disconnect, now outside.
@@adrianspeeder Connecting the telephone demarcation ground to the grounding electrode reduces the hazards from lightning and powerline crosses to the interior of the home. Until all the telephone twisted-pair wiring is disconnected from the point of demarcation there is a hazard. The telephone drop cable to the power pole still exists and is still connected to the point of demarcation.
With that stripper on the big cables try right at the end of the cable giving it a slight twist to each side as you pull it off the end you might be able to open up just enough of a slit that it will slide right off with your gloved hand
Seems as if he's working with readily available material. If that's all the supply house has, and he's getting the job done today, you gotta do what you can to make sure to finish.
Talking with my electrical supply house last week, the combined panels are significantly back ordered at the moment. They had one in the store, and it was one that'd been ordered by one of the local electrical companies, months prior.
@@09BOSs21 ... not sure what his local market is, but in certain areas the "future expansion" from outside is a VERY common thing. (adding a garage, RV hook-up, etc) Going to a full panel is peanuts if you have to buy a separate disconnect anyway. In my area a "metered / main pan" is hard to get these days.
In UK it's not unusual to find asbestos board underneath plastic soffits which if cut with a machine could result in dangerous dust being released so I would be wary of doing that sort of hole without knowing exactly what is underneath
In most jurisdictions the utility book of standards (gold book) must be followed completely when any major alteration to the existing equipment is performed. That's right
Where do you need 200 A services? In Finland typical ones are 3x25 A or 3x35 A and even on the latter ones has heating and sauna. 3x63 A is an option but it often costs 100 € more a month than 3x25 A.
We don’t pay a premium for increased service current. Also our devices are mostly 120V and draw more current than 240V devices doing the same work. Additionally, 3 phase power requires even less current per leg than single phase split that we have in the US.
200 amps is pretty standard on new homes. Ideally, 160 amps is the max continuous draw. US homes are power hungry, but it's rare to draw all that at once. The point is: you can if you need to. EV charging is increasing that demand even more.
I have a question for you. If I disconnect wires from electrical panel do I then need to remove that wire throughout the house or can it still live inside the walls and under the house as long as it has no power at all? Or wil I have to pull all the old wiring
You mentioned that the trailer panel allows external loads to be installed without penetrating the home, but then you are installing hot tub wiring to the inside panel. Does that mean that the hot tub is indoors? Seeing you on the roof without fall gear made me very netvous! Why don't you wear it?
You have the roof boot nicely flashing the mast now, but the tube of something goopy will be back. When it is reroofed, you won't be around to disconnect everything and slide a new boot over the mast. The plastic boots are doing good to make 20 years, not all of them make 10 so it will be at end of life when it is reroof time. Chances are, the roofer will do like the last roofer, shingle up to the mast and pull out his trusty tube of his favorite goopy stuff and glop it all over the shingles and mast. I know that there are retrofit kits available but probably not stocked at the local big box store and is a lot more expensive so chances are good that it won't be used.
Would it be nicer to put the trailer panel directly underneath the meter box, so all the conduit remains in-line? Oh, I thought you were running conduit the whole way 😛
Hope you actually charge those prices. Quality of work was half assed at best. There is a reason you never included a photo of the panel without any wires landed. Mixing and matching panels brands is not cool either. You got the cheapest of cheap square d panels on top of it. Should of just made them both Siemens
It's already protected from pipe. So, stripping it allows you to feed back a little wire into the LB when you are connecting the wires in the disconnect and have a bit extra.
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I don't fear working in an a live industrial 480 volt 3 phase cabinet. Cutting, sealing, and otherwise messing with a roof, I feel fear.
🤣 Preach!
Residential journeyman here. That’s great man. Seems like you’re real comfortable around that high voltage equipment, but being complacent can also lead to injuries. Be safe out there!
I do electrical work in the UK and it's always interesting to see how you guys in the US do it. I really enjoy your videos!
me too . i'm an electrician in Taiwan , i'm curious about what u did it.
Our electrical system is weird ngl
As far as the tower supports go maybe you could talk to your local dish network or direct tv guy. They might be smaller but I bet they could either hook you up or have some old take-offs that would work for you.
I was kinda lost on the "check the video here" moments because there's no video suggestion on RUclips when playing though AirPlay
For those who want to know, these are the top four causes of house fires:
1) Cooking fires
2) Space heaters,
3) Electrical fires
4) Smoking
Aren't all three fist electrical fires (unless it is a gas stove)?
@@okaro6595 ... the first few may be electrical appliances, but the cause of the fire is NOT electrical in origin. Cooking fire are usually grease related and space heaters can cause nearby items to burn. (drapes, couch, etc)
Damn shame about the rot in the roof. That'll have to be repaired eventually.
Wow learned alot, the thhn vs xhw wire, passthrough panel lugs, confirmed my love for SQ D panels, use a jbox not a LB, confirmed my recent purchase of milwuakee SDS drill, carbide hole saw for roof, holding hole saw with boots if pilot is not available, and more. All notes in my head now
A 200amp upgrade in Saint Paul MN was quoted at almost $7,000 last year when I got a quote. I wish prices were as affordable as Indiana. A new 200amp service for my garage with surge protector, and a main breaker on the meter was $4,250 and that’s the cheapest I could find… I went out to check the work, and asked if he needed to torque the lugs where it’s connected and he said that no one really does that. I’m not certain if I should have believed him after watching your level of work!
The one thing I don't like about making your own stand-off legs is the top gut will allow water to leak in and when it freezes the pipe will split. They need to be sealed to prevent that problem.
I like to land line side cables in meter cabinet before weatherhead is installed-cables are easier to strip and can slip up/down conduit for easier installation.
(glad to see the Noalox🙂)
Isn't Noalox code now for new panels?
18:00 Why did you explain that the extra spaces in the trailer disconnect will negate having to go through the outer wall of the house for new circuits... and then go through the outer wall for the new hot tub anyway...?
I believe he was talking about the possibility of future expansion being easier. That basement run to the hot tub seemed rather short and the disconnect will probably be right on the wall so no conduit to run around the outside.
sweet work and good training as always
0:59 If you don't need a load center outside 230.85 (3) says as long as its service rated you can install a non fused disconnect as your emergency disconnect outside while the service disconnect remains in the load center inside.
Eaton makes a 200 amp meter/main 20/40 ckt with feed-thru lugs. All in one unit saves two pieces of eqipment.
Cable guy kits are available. That's what I use.
Odd as it may seem, some local utilities do not allow the use of meter/main combos. And in Indiana and here in Idaho, only meters and disconnects are outside, breaker panels inside. No one wants to go reset breakers in sub-freezing temps and feet of snow.
Is there a specific reason you don't use the panels that have the meter base and the trailer panel integrated?
Our utility company regulates that and they’re pretty restrictive. There are only a few that comply. I’ll do one next time.
That Jokere tool is a waste of money in my opinion.I tried it once and I tossed it away.Now I have the Klein large wire stripper.It stripps 250kcmil,4/0,3/0 & 2/0.It works like a charm.I highly recommend it.
Definitely not the ideal way to install the rain cap at the mast penetration. I would have tucked the top under the shingle tab and sealed the entire flange to the roof with roofing cement and shingle nails at the four corners. Just my preference. But then again, I would have inspected and repaired the rotten roof prior to calling you in for the upgrade. Like your work.👍👨🦳🇨🇦
You're right, but the average homeowner will probably put off one of the projects to avoid a massive bill for the whole deal all at once. From the looks of things, it will be ok for 10 years until they do the roof again.
@@rupe53 hopefully the owner doesn’t have a roof leak that finds it way down to the breaker panel.🙀
@@richardc6932 .... if you watch closely, you will see he caulked all around and tucked the boot under the shingles. If he sealed the conduit at the meter, then that part is set.
He did do all of that
Nice job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
i put pipe on base then push thru roof, get it all straight & level, drill & mount. When drilling thru metal, use reverse
wow cool master list!! good job.
We use guy wires in Canada, mast clamp, 2 heavy aviation type cables to roof
Please share the reference for additional mast supports. I've never seen this in IN and it looked to me that the gold book said GRC/IMC would eliminate the need for extra bracing. Have you seen rigid mast installs and effects of insufficient bracing?
Your videos are top shelf! The best around for this subject. Thanks!
It sounded like a local code or utility thing. Seems like overkill, and just more spots for the roof to leak...
Why strip the Jacket so far back leaving exposed conductors at the Terminations ?
My not be an Issue inside the Panel box, but would look nicer.
Mike M.
My city is packed with those old meter bases
Now would be a good time to bond the telephone and cable protective grounds to the ground bus in the disconnect. Bingo, all the electronics are protected from surges from the overhead wiring drops.
Connecting the communication wiring grounds is required in Chapter 8, Articles 800 to 830 in the NEC (NFPA 70). The cable television ground disappears below the concrete and the telephone ground goes through the brick wall.
The interior panel should have its ground to neutral bus connection removed, the only place for this connection is the at the first means of disconnect, now outside.
You mean remove the telephone grounds. It's not 19dickity2 anymore.
@@adrianspeeder Connecting the telephone demarcation ground to the grounding electrode reduces the hazards from lightning and powerline crosses to the interior of the home. Until all the telephone twisted-pair wiring is disconnected from the point of demarcation there is a hazard. The telephone drop cable to the power pole still exists and is still connected to the point of demarcation.
Your videos are a gold mine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
With that stripper on the big cables try right at the end of the cable giving it a slight twist to each side as you pull it off the end you might be able to open up just enough of a slit that it will slide right off with your gloved hand
Why the two separate boxes? Why not use an all in one meter panel that has the meter and the breakers all in one can?
Seems as if he's working with readily available material. If that's all the supply house has, and he's getting the job done today, you gotta do what you can to make sure to finish.
Talking with my electrical supply house last week, the combined panels are significantly back ordered at the moment.
They had one in the store, and it was one that'd been ordered by one of the local electrical companies, months prior.
@@09BOSs21 ... not sure what his local market is, but in certain areas the "future expansion" from outside is a VERY common thing. (adding a garage, RV hook-up, etc) Going to a full panel is peanuts if you have to buy a separate disconnect anyway. In my area a "metered / main pan" is hard to get these days.
I needed some entertainment and poof here you are ... Good vid Joel ...
Can I Install a new main breaker,meter base etc. next to the existing one before cutting service off and removing the old one?
relocated the panel did you run a jumper to old panel to keep the power in place
This is totally awesome sause
great channel dude!!! Love it!!! Badass Electrician!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In UK it's not unusual to find asbestos board underneath plastic soffits which if cut with a machine could result in dangerous dust being released so I would be wary of doing that sort of hole without knowing exactly what is underneath
Will your PoCo Allow you to use a guy wire anchor further back on the roof for your mast support?
If the drop can be trenched, buried service is worth the extra money.
We call that service disconnect a ranch panel.
Awesome man. Love your videos.
200a panel should be min for any residence...with all of todays stuff in homes
We use allot of siemens also!!
Doesn’t need to be 3ft from the edge and from the window? Is that ok to keep there because the old service was in that location?
In most jurisdictions the utility book of standards (gold book) must be followed completely when any major alteration to the existing equipment is performed. That's right
Where do you need 200 A services? In Finland typical ones are 3x25 A or 3x35 A and even on the latter ones has heating and sauna. 3x63 A is an option but it often costs 100 € more a month than 3x25 A.
We don’t pay a premium for increased service current. Also our devices are mostly 120V and draw more current than 240V devices doing the same work. Additionally, 3 phase power requires even less current per leg than single phase split that we have in the US.
200 amps is pretty standard on new homes. Ideally, 160 amps is the max continuous draw. US homes are power hungry, but it's rare to draw all that at once. The point is: you can if you need to. EV charging is increasing that demand even more.
What size wire do you use for 200 amp service?
I have a question for you. If I disconnect wires from electrical panel do I then need to remove that wire throughout the house or can it still live inside the walls and under the house as long as it has no power at all? Or wil I have to pull all the old wiring
You can leave it be, it's fine.
You mentioned that the trailer panel allows external loads to be installed without penetrating the home, but then you are installing hot tub wiring to the inside panel. Does that mean that the hot tub is indoors?
Seeing you on the roof without fall gear made me very netvous! Why don't you wear it?
You have the roof boot nicely flashing the mast now, but the tube of something goopy will be back. When it is reroofed, you won't be around to disconnect everything and slide a new boot over the mast. The plastic boots are doing good to make 20 years, not all of them make 10 so it will be at end of life when it is reroof time. Chances are, the roofer will do like the last roofer, shingle up to the mast and pull out his trusty tube of his favorite goopy stuff and glop it all over the shingles and mast. I know that there are retrofit kits available but probably not stocked at the local big box store and is a lot more expensive so chances are good that it won't be used.
my utility requires me to use copper unless aluminum was engineered FKEC doesn't like it
Hot tub secret is out!
😅 Christmas present; we're safe!
Would it be nicer to put the trailer panel directly underneath the meter box, so all the conduit remains in-line?
Oh, I thought you were running conduit the whole way 😛
Why not use a 200amp meter main....less work...less cost
Yes! However, our utilities allow very few meter main combos and only in certain situations. It's like a standing "no no" 😐
Did you just say 2000 AMP Breaker
No torque wrench?
He torques, just not filmed today.
У вас каменный век с электроснабжения
Hope you actually charge those prices. Quality of work was half assed at best. There is a reason you never included a photo of the panel without any wires landed. Mixing and matching panels brands is not cool either. You got the cheapest of cheap square d panels on top of it. Should of just made them both Siemens
Also wanted to add that your sales tactics are dishonest at best.
Cheese and crackers. Nothing wrong with pushamatic.
As a pastor, I can say it is truly appreciated when the flock is watching out for their pastor as much as he is looking out for them.
Why did you strip the SER so far back?
It's already protected from pipe. So, stripping it allows you to feed back a little wire into the LB when you are connecting the wires in the disconnect and have a bit extra.
Why aren't you using a guy wire attachment kit, Joel?